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People normally try to build settlements closer to major routes and busy thoroughfares. Not so in the Urals. It seems that many villages

were deliberately built off the beaten path. Anyone who wondered into one of these villages by mistake was in for a rather wary and

curt reception. Strangers were feared and disliked.Tavatui is one such village and it is fair to say that our ancestors

were right in being scared of strangers.

From the White Sea The village was built on the shores of a

scenic lake very discreetly, which makes it difficult to pinpoint the exact date when it was founded. Legend has it that several archers were deported there after the famous uprising of 1698. However, this is fairly unlikely. People went to this settlement founded by Old Believers and Schismatics of their own volition.

text: Lev Koshcheyevfoto: Konstantin Mironov

E A T , P R A Y , L O V E

Church reform was carried out in Russia almost at the same time as in Europe, but the outcomes were strikingly different. The Huguenots, the Calvinists and the Protestants, who initiated the Reformation in Europe, became proponents of the capitalist ideology. They thought that only well-off people would go to Heaven because they worked hard and never spent money on amusement and

other nonsense. They deemed idleness and profligacy to be the worst sins.

The same principles were adopted in Russia by the opponents of the reforms and they ended up being burnt like Huguenots. They had one other peculiarity. While the adepts of the Established Church could always go to a priest who could read and interpret the Bible for them, the Old Believers did not have anybody to turn to

74 | D ISCOVER ING URALS AVIATERMINAL 37LAND

75

and had to read and think for themselves. This also explained a record level of literacy among the Old Believers at that time.

European Protestants fled to the United States, while the Russian protestants went in the opposite direction, to the East. At some point the stronghold of the Old Believers was in the north, near Arkhangelsk and Murmansk, but the authorities soon got to them and the coast-dwellers had to go further east, towards the Ural Mountains.

This fact accounts for the mixed origin of the first settlers. Many researchers think of the coast-dwellers as a separate ethnic group. They had a very different dialect and peculiar culture, and anthropologically speaking they were Vikings, or Norwegians.

The first mention of a village of the Old Believers and fishermen at Lake Tavatui in the official documents dates back to the era of Peter the Great. A messenger from the mining ministry arrived in Tavatui to inform the villagers that Old Believers were to pay an additional tax. The village was even featured in the population census, with its 96 inhabitants. However, punitive missionary expeditions could not get close to the village even though the routes to Neviansk and Nizhny Tagil were very close, the village was surrounded by bogs.

As for the lake, it stretches from north to south and is 10 kilometres long and 3.5 kilometres wide. It underwent a radical transformation in the middle of the 18th century after a dam was built. Now it is on average 5 metres deep, with some areas 9 metres deep. It is also important that the lakeshore has not been washed away, but is still rather steep. The variety of fish is not what it used to be, but you can still find ruff, roach, perch, pike, nerfling and burbot there. During Soviet times Chudskoe lake herring and Ladoga cisco were introduced to the lake.

Tavatuis remoteness transformed it into the centre of the Old Believers strictest branch, which did not accept any priests at all (the so-called Bespopovshina), also known as the Coast-Dweller Unity. Its adherents were convinced that since the Reformation, the Russian church

was governed by Antichrist, therefore no priests were to be tolerated and all the rites could be performed by common people, including women. According to their beliefs, everyone had to be re-baptised and marriages... were to be done away with.

The leaders of the Old Believers lived in the village itself and there was also a monk priory, where the leaders escaped during the raids conducted by the authorities. The settlers were not just fishermen; they passed their beliefs from generation to generation and protected, quite literally, those who represented their faith.

Secluded shores In the 20th century all those priories,

disputes about marriages and wrinkled elderly hermits seem so old that you start to think of them as completely fictional. Tavatui has gradually become a normal village, but whenever an elderly villager died the researchers from Sverdlovsk came to study the fascinating books that were left. That is, if the children of the deceased had not sold the books to a paper recycling organisation to be able to buy some books by Maurice Druon with the money. Huge catches and local ruffs are a thing of the past too a fish processing plant that operated there during Soviet times depleted the fish stock completely.

The only reminders of Tavatuis glorious past are the crosses by the lake. It is not a milestone, as somebody who has come there for a leisurely afternoon and is not very familiar with the local history might think. These are the remains of an old cemetery and a big cross on the hill is where Gavrila Ukraintsev, one of the most prominent Old Believers was buried in 1750. One of the very talented locals, Levian Chumichev, wrote a short story Krutenka gorka (A steep hill), which is considered to be one of the best short stories in Russian literature of the 20th century.

Later on the village began to get interested in its history and somehow started losing it very quickly at the same time. Now Tavatui hardly resembles a village at all, an Old Believers or otherwise. It is a very picturesque place

and it only takes 30 minutes to get to the nearest big city. Private cottages sprout like mushrooms after the rain, the streets are lined with expensive cars and the local beaches get jam-packed on the weekends.

Everything has changed except for the purple sunsets they are as beautiful as ever. This impressive growth is not as bad as it might seems the harsh local climate and nature keep it in check. You only need to go past the village perimeter and you are back in the wild.

During the summer after a busy day at work, you can try and finish early, hit the road, take a turn towards the village, but dont turn right after the shop, keep going straight on and you will see how the road bends to the left. After you go past the camping sites and cottages you find yourself in an entirely different world. With a road like that your SUV, more used to the city streets, inevitably sinks into the potholes or spins on boulders. Not many people venture into this area because you cannot get to the lakeshore.

Losing patience and overheating the engine, you can drive round the lake from the south, thinking about things that matter. Then you are back to the tarmac road, which leads to Kalinovo village, which is just across Tavatui.

If its not secluded enough for you, you can go north, but you will need to walk or go by boat, as there is no road whatsoever.

In spite of its relative wilderness, in recent years Tavatui has been offering some rather glamorous retreats. You step on a floating raft with a white wooden hut on it, inside there is some champagne and cold veal pies, and then a boat takes you and your raft to the middle of the lake. Its wonderfully romantic and beautiful, especially if a typical Tavatui storm occurs.

I could sum it all up by saying that there are holiday opportunities to suit any taste, but I dont really want to. On the shores of Lake Tavatui you dont really want anything, just eat, pray and love. Poor Americans need to travel as far as Italy, India and Bali to realise that. For us, its enough to go to Tavaui.

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