1 a love affair with luxe - cult of the luxury brand_ inside asia’s love affair with luxury
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1 a Love Affair With Luxe - Cult of the Luxury Brand_ Inside Asia’s Love Affair With LuxuryTRANSCRIPT
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15/02/2015 1ALoveAffairwithLuxeCultoftheLuxuryBrand:InsideAsiasLoveAffairwithLuxury
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1A LOVE AFFAIR WITH LUXE
Howcomeyoudonthavethemufflerwithchecks,theonethatthePremierwears?ThepersonaskingthequestionisJiangZemin,untilrecentlyPresidentofChina,thePremierhereferstoisnoneotherthanthemancreditedwithreformingChinaseconomy,thedynamicZhuRongji,andthecheckedpieceofneckaccessoryinquestionistherathercontagiousBurberrymuffler,whichalsocountsthousandsofyoungJapanesewomenamongitswillingvictims.
ThesettingofthistruelifeshoppingdramaistheScitechdepartmentstoreinBeijing,notexactlyahotspotforluxurybrandsinthefirstplace,andcertainlynotusedtohavingpresidentsdroppingbyunannounced.Jiangreportedlymakesittothethirdfloormenssectionunrecognized,beforepanicensuesandpeoplerealizethatitsthePresidenthimselfsanssecurityentourage.ThemanagingdirectorofthestorerushesdowntomeetJiang,whoisincreasinglyimpatienttoseethecheckedmufflerhehasheardsomuchabout.Unfortunately,thestoredoesnotcarryBurberry.No,headsdontroll,butthenextdaythelocalBurberrymanagementissummonedfortalks.Pickanyspotyoulike,thedepartmentstoreoffers,justputupaBurberrystoreasfastaspossible.AvideoconferenceishurriedlyarrangedwithchiefexecutiveRosemaryBravoinLondon,who,tickledbythestory,givesthegoahead.Anaccessoriescornerissetupataprimelocationinthestore,andnowBurberrymufflersarereadilyavailable,justincasePresidentJiangdoesoneofhisspotchecksagain.
Frompresidentstoofficeladies,fromcaptainsofindustrytouniversitystudents,fromwellheeledsocialitestohousewivesbuyingfishinthelocalwetmarketsinJapan,eventhe
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15/02/2015 1ALoveAffairwithLuxeCultoftheLuxuryBrand:InsideAsiasLoveAffairwithLuxury
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fishmongerstuckawaytheircashreceiptsinLouisVuittonbagseverysectionofsociety,everycountryinAsia,isfallingunderthespellofWesternluxurybrands.StrolldownthebusystreetsofTokyotoday,andabarrageofLouisVuittonhandbagscomeatyouonthearmsofmiddleclasswomen.SettledownforadrinkatoneofShanghaishipnightclubs,andpickouttheChanel,Dior,andPradabagsamongthedesignercladcrowd.RidethesubwayinSeoulandmostwomenarehangingfirmlyontotheirLouisVuittonsandGuccis.DropoffyourchildatanupscalekindergarteninHongKongandaquickglanceattheothermumsshouldbringyouuptodateonthisseasonsnewarrivals.MeetingagovernmentofficialinBeijing?ChancesarethesuitisZegna,andthatflashofgoldbeneaththesleeveisaCartierwatch.
ItshardtoimaginethatluxurybrandswereoncethepreserveoftheEuropeanaristocracy,thatamerehundredyearsagothesebeautifullycraftedpiecesofclothingandaccessoriesweresolelyforthepleasureandadornmentofawealthylite.NowfamedluxuryhouseslikeLouisVuitton,Herms,Chanel,Cartier,andinnumerableothersservetheconsumersofAsia,and,inastrangeturnofevents,itisthepopulousmarketsofthisregionthatarecentraltotheirsuccess.AsiahasgrownintotheworldslargestmarketforWesternluxurybrands,andbetweenthebrandobsessedJapaneseontheonehandandChinaandIndiasrisingnewmoneyontheother,thepresentandfutureofluxeliesquarelyinAsia.
HowdidtheluxurybrandculturespreadfromEuropeslitetoAsiashoipolloi?Fickleasfashionis,itsbusinesshistorycontainsenduringlessonsforallmarketers,explainingthestrategiesthatchangedsmallfamilybusinessesintohighlyprofitableglobalempires.Importantly,itshedslightonsomethingeverymarketerdreamsoftheseemingparadoxofcharginghighpricesbasedonexclusivitywhilesellingyourproducttoeveryTomoko,Sadako,andYoshiko.Theluxurybrandindustryhasmanagedtodojustthatinfact,thefineartofhavingyourcakewhileeatingittooisitscorebusinessphilosophytoday.
THE GENESISTheforcesthatcreatedAsiascultoftheluxurybrandweresetinmotionaround100yearsago.
Intheearly1900s,whiletheBelleEpoqueunfoldedinEurope
aheadyperiodofprogressandprosperity,whenwealth
wasshamelesslyflauntedandelaboratewomensdresseswereaprimemethodofshowingfamilystatusatrickleofimportedluxuryproductshadalreadybeguntoflowintoAsia,althoughtheytouchedonlyasmallwealthylite.JapanhademergedfromitslongEdoperiodisolation,andhadbeguntradingwithBritainandEurope,includingjewelryandotherluxurygoods.Afine
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crystalvasebyBaccaratwassaidtocostmorethantheaverageJapanesehomeofthetime.BurberrysetupshopinTokyointhe1920sthroughalocalimportingcompany.
InChina,ShanghaiwaslivingitsownversionoftheBelleEpoqueastheParisoftheEastinthegiddy,hedonistic1920sand1930s.Whilehighsocietywomenstucktothegracefulcheongsamforpublicoccasions,menworefineFrenchsuits,andSwisswatchessuchasthosemadebyOmegawhichenteredChinain1895wereprizeditems.
RoyalfamiliesinIndiahadanaturalaffinityforEuropeanluxurybrands,shoppingontripstoLondonandParis,orsimplycommissioningpiecesfromthelikesofVuittonandCartier.ThefamedPatialanecklacewasmadebyJacquesCartierfortheMaharajaofPatialain1928itsashowstopperwith2,930diamondstotaling1,000carats,includingthe234caratDeBeersdiamond,theseventhlargestintheworld.
ThencamethecrunchinonewayoranotherforalltheAsiannations.TheSecondWorldWarknockedthebreathoutofJapan.InnewlyindependentIndia,itbecamemorechictowearkhadiahandspuncottonclothsportedbyadherentsofthefreedommovementthanluxuriesimportedfromWesterncountries.InCommunistChina,youriskedyourneckifyoudeviatedfromclearlylaidoutstylecodes,andanyexpensiveitemsyourfamilymighthavepossessedwereconfiscated.IndependencestrugglesinSoutheastAsialedtotheAmericansleavingthePhilippinesin1946,theDutchdepartingIndonesiain1949,andtheBritishquittingMalaysiaandSingaporeinthelate1950s, buta
combinationofpatriotismandpovertymeanttherewasverylittleplaceforimportedluxe.InmanyAsiancountriesprotectionistpolicieslimitedtrade,andtheimportofluxuryitemswaspunishedwithheftytaxes,iftheywereallowedinatall.Harshpostliberationeconomicrealitiesmeantthatpeopletoiledtorebuildtheircountryandthemselvesmakingendsmeetandsavingfortheirchildrensfuturewerethepriorities.Forallpracticalpurposes,importedluxurybrandswentintohibernationinAsiaforseveraldecades,onlyslowlyreappearinginthe1970s.
AcenturyofworldfashionasseenthroughtheChinesecheongsam
Evenacenturyago,AsiawastakingitsfashioncuesfromtheWest.HerewetracetheimpactofEuropeandesignersandHollywooddivasonthecheongsamthegraceful,bodyskimmingChinesedresswithsideslitsthatevolvedintandemwithinternationalfashiontrends.Shanghai,Chinasstylecapitalinthefirsthalfofthetwentiethcentury,dictatedthelook,passingthemantleontoHongKongaftertheCommuniststookover.
1920sThecheongsamwasslimmer,thesilhouettewasslinkier,copyingthebiascutsofChanelthesleevesgotshorter,theslit
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higher.Hairwasstraightandbobbed,skinwaspaleandlips,red.ThinkGaronne.
1930sThecheongsamwasanklelength,thefeelwaslighter,sleeveswerecuttorevealtheunderarm.Hairwaspermed,eyebrowsdrawnthinandarchedlikeGretaGarbos.
1940sThecheongsamwaswornwithjacketswithpaddedshouldersandplatformshoeslikeJoanCrawfords.
1950sThebodywasmorestructured,aChinesehourglass,laChristianDiorsNewLook.Hairwasbrushedintosleekrolls,strongeyebrows,smolderingeyeslikeAvaGardners.
1960sThecheongsamwasshorterandmoreboxy,patternsandprintsweremuchbolder.Hairwasteasedupbirdsneststyle.ThinkYvesSaintLaurentorPierreCardin.
1970sThecheongsamwaspairedasatunicwithbellbottoms.Psychedelicprintsreflectedtheswingingseventies.
1980sApowercheongsamwithamorepaddedshoulder.VeryGiorgioArmani.
TodayThecheongsamdisappearsfromdailylife,onlytobereincarnatedasfashionableeveningwearbyChinesedesignhousessuchasShanghaiTang.
AdaptedfromHongKongbornfashiondesignerVivienneTamsbookChinaChic(NewYork:ReganBooks,2000,pp27074).
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PhotoscourtesyofValeryGarrett,KareemJalal,ElizabethChung,andShanghaiTang.
Inthemeantime,therewasplentyofactiononthecouturefrontinEuropeinthefirsthalfofthecentury,creatingmanyofthefashionhousesthatAsialovestoday.TheelaboratedressesthathadwomentrussedupincorsetsgavewaytomorecomfortableclothingthanksasmuchtotheworldwarswhichforcedwomentoworkinpracticaloutfitsastotheimaginationofdesignerslikeCocoChanel,whopromotedtheGaronnelook.AftertheSecondWorldWarChristianDiorbroughtbackthestarsinwomenseyeswithhisextravagantNewLook,waistsnippedintocreateanhourglassfigure.ItwasatimeofdramaticupheavalsinEuropewar,occupation,liberation,economicscarcitybutdespiteupsanddowns,Parisretaineditssenseofstyleandremainedtheworldsfashioncapital,thankstodesignerslikeJeanneLanvinandPierreBalmain,whoincidentallycountedthe
QueenofThailandamonghisloyalcustomers.
TheUS,wheretheuppercrusthadreliedonParisforimportedcouture,slowlystartedcomingintoitsownwiththeemergenceof
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localdesignerslikeClaireMcCardellandHattieCarnegie.PariswasstillthemothershipMcCardellstudiedfashionthere,CarnegieretailedFrenchlabelsbutbothweredesigningforAmericansensibilities.WallisSimpsonchoseAmericanborndesignerMainbocher,thenbasedinParis,todesignherweddingdress.(Incidentallyherhusband,theexkingofEngland,hadhistrouserstailoredinNewYork,preferringthemoreadvancedAmericanstylebeltsandzipstobracesandbuttonsSavileRow
atthattimeconsideredbeltsandzippedfliestobevulgar. )
USdesignerscontinuedtoriseinthe1970sCalvinKleinandRalphLaurenamongthemdefiningamoreleisureorientedcasualeleganceastheAmericanstyle.Theyaddedacompletelynewdimensiontothefashionequationsavvymarketing.ThelikesofBrookeShieldsadvertisingNothingcomesbetweenmeandmyCalvinsandtheuproarthataccompanieditshowedtheEuropeansthepowerofbrandingunleashedthroughthemassmedia.Itwasaturningpointinthehistoryoffashion:Suddenlyitwasntjustthedesignorproductthatwascritical,itwastheimageandlifestylethatthebrandprojected.RalphLaurencreatedanempirethroughmarketingalifestyleBritishlandedgentryreinterpretedformodernAmericastartingwithPolomenswearandextendingtowomen,children,home,formals,casuals,andjustabouteverythingelse.Theeraofmassmarketingofluxuryhadbegun,aforcethatwouldbeadoptedrelentlesslybytheFrenchinthe1990sastheysetabouttargetingawiderconsumerbase.
TheperiodaftertheSecondWorldWaralsosawItalyemergeasaserioussupplieroffineclothingandaccessoriesforEuropeanreadytowearlabelsabitlikeChinaspositiontodayanditwasonlyamatteroftimebeforethenationemergedasamajorstylesetter.Theingredientswerealwaysthere:atraditionoffinecraftsmanshipwithleatherproductsandtailoredmenssuits,anabundanceofexcellentqualitymaterials,modernproductiontechnology,and,mostimportantly,apassionforladolcevita.IfFrancewasaboutluxuriouscoutureandAmericawasaboutcasualelegance,Italiandesigncombinedbothitgavethefeelofpureluxuryinreadytowearclothes.ThinkArmanisuit,exquisitefabric,stylishlycut,immaculatelyexecuted,engineeredforcomfort,theworkofamasterdesigneratapricethatwasnttotallyoutofreachapowerfulpackageinfurtheringthespreadofluxe.
Atthesametime,theItaliansshowedthattheyhadwhatittooktodocoutureValentinowasamongtheearlydesigners,hissumptuouscreationsfindingfavorwithglamorouswomenofthetime,includingJackieKennedywhochoseaValentinodressforherweddingtoAristotleOnassis.WhiletheAmericansweremastermarketers,theItaliansexcelledatcreatingtherightkindofbuzz,anotherpowerfultoolinspreadingtheluxeculture.Itcamenaturallytothem,withflamboyantfigureslikeGianniVersace
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creatingasmuchnewsashisclienteleofprincesses,stars,andhighsocietywomen.ItalyroserapidlyandtodayMilanisasmuchafashioncenterasParis.
ASIAS TORRID AFFAIR WITH LUXEBackinAsia,itwastimeforJapantoriseanditdidsoontwofronts.Itproducedadaringbunchofdesignerswhosprangontotheinternationalsceneinthe1970sandearly1980sKenzoTakada,KansaiYamamoto,IsseyMiyake,YohjiYamamoto,andReiKawakubo.Thelasttwoinparticularhadthefashionworldgaspingwithshockanddelight,theircreationsoftatteredragsacompletedeparturefromanythingParishadseenbefore.Onthesecondfront,Japanproducedanenthusiasticconsumerbasethathasgrowntobethebackboneofthegloballuxuryindustry.Japanseconomicriseinthe1970sandtheheadyyearsofthe1980sbroughthugebuyingpowertoitspeople,andtheytooktoEuropeanluxurylikeafishtowater.Luxebecamethenationalobsessionbythe1990severythirdwomaninJapanownedapieceofit.Withluxurygoodsbeingpurchasedonsuchascale,soonthetopbrandswerecountingtheJapaneseastheirsinglelargestconsumersegment.
Japanesetouristshoppersfirstbecameanoticeablephenomenoninthe1970sandtheirnumbersballoonedtogiganticproportionsinthe1980sand1990s.Europesluxuryhousessatupandtooknotice,andstartedsettingupshopinJapanGucciopeneditsfirststoreinTokyoin1972inresponsetounprecedenteddemandfromJapanesetouristsinEuropedittoforLouisVuitton,whichenteredJapanin1978.SoontheJapanesewerenotonlyturninginhugesalesathome,butalsoshoppingsomaniacallyinEuropethattheywerealmostsinglehandedlysupportingsalesofluxurygoods.(JPMorganestimatesthattouristsrepresentmorethan80percentofLouisVuittonsChampsElysesstoresales.
)ThewiderJapanesetouriststraveled,themorebrandstores
wereopenedatalltheirfavoritedestinationsevenremoteislandslikeGuamhadwellstockedlardersofluxe.TheyjumpstartedluxuryretailalloverAsiaHongKongsalesskyrocketedinthe1980sthankstothem,dutyfreesalesinSeoulandTaiwantookoffwiththeirblessing,andevenjustemergingmarketslikeBangkokreportedheartysalestotheJapanese.Storestheworldovergeareduptocatertothem,pricetagsandlabelswererenderedinJapanese,andsalesstaffweretrainedtospeaktheirlanguage.(OneofourmoreendearingsightswasonRomesluxurystorestuddedViaCondotti,witnessingasvelteItaliansalesgirlservingademureJapanesewoman,thewholetransactionconductedinfluentJapanesewithplentyofbowingonboth
sides. )
ThedevelopmentofeverysuccessiveluxurybrandmarketinAsiahasfollowedasimilarpatternofgrowingeconomicprosperityandthegovernmentswillingnesstobekinderon
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policiestowardsuchgoods.AfterJapancameHongKong,whichexperienceditsownheadyriseinthe1980sand1990s,withmuchmoneybeingmadebyenterprisinglocalsonthestockmarketandpropertyspeculation.Sureenough,alongwithmoneycamearobustappetiteforluxe.Today,HongKonghasdevelopedintoaluxuryshoppingMecca,offeringthebestselectioninAsia(outsideofJapan),atthebestpricesinAsia,attractingalargenumberoftouristshoppers.Majorbrandshavesixorsevenlargestoresinthecity,farmorethantheyhavein
Paris,London,orNewYork. Armanihasitsglobalflagshipin
HongKong,afeastofeightoutletsspreadover34,000squarefeetonthreefloorsofChaterHouseinCentral:GiorgioArmani,EmporioArmani,GiorgioArmaniCosmetics,ArmaniCasa,ArmaniFiori,ArmaniLibri,ArmaniDolci,andahugeArmaniBarinconcept,scale,andstyle,thiscollectionofstoresiscuttingedgeretail.
SouthKoreaandTaiwansluxurymarketsbegangrowinginthe1990saftertheirgovernmentsdroppedimportdutiesandloosenedcontrols.SouthKoreaboastsitsownRodeoStreet,withswankflagshipsandextremelywellstockeddepartmentstores.Moreimportantly,theSouthKoreanconsumershavegonelabelcrazyasmanyas50percentofSeoulwomenreportedlyownaLouisVuittonbag,althoughnooneknowsforsurehowmanyofthosearefake.ForgetkeepingupwiththeJoneses,hereitisallaboutoutdoingtheKimsandChungs.ThestoryinTaiwanfollowsidenticallines.
ThatbringsustoChina.EveryonewaitswithbatedbreathandtoweringexpectationsasChinatakesitsfirstwobblystepsinManoloBlahniks,teeteringheadlongintotheworldofbrandedluxury.TheChinesepeoplehavetakenDengXiaopingsexhortationTogetrichisglorioustoheart,andindeedmanyaregettingseriouslywealthy.Whatpuzzlesmanypeople,however,ishowacountrywithpercapitaGDPoflessthanUS$2,000canbeasignificantluxurybrandmarket.Theanswerliesinunevendevelopment:Selectedcitiesandregionsareemergingaspocketsofwealth,andtheoneswithmoneyareinahurrytospendit.Itsasifadamhasburstand,withnochecksinplace,Chinasgrowingranksofnouveauxrichesaregorgingthemselvesonnewfoundgoodies.ConspicuousconsumptionisthenameofthegameintodaysChinaandeverymajorluxurybrandisalreadytheretoplayalong.
ReminiscentoftheJapaneseinthe1980s,theChinesetouristshopperismakingheadsturnandjawsdropinthe2000s.ThemainlandtouristhasrapidlybecomethemainstayofHongKongsluxuryretailsector,somestoresreportingasmuchas70percentoftheirsalestothissegment.WithvisarestrictionsbeingrelaxedandmanyWesterncountriesgivinggrouptouristvisas,thenumberofChinesetouriststoEurope,theUS,Australia,andindeedtherestofAsiaisrisingsteadily.Thisnewclassoftourist
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isacquiringareputationforspendinggenerously,routinelypickingupluxurybrandsasgiftsforfriendsandfamilybackhome.MembersofasmalllitesegmenthavestartedflyingtoParisandMilantorefreshtheirwardrobeseveryseason.
Andnowtheslumberinggiant,India,isfinallyawakeningitseconomysizzlingatamorethan7percentgrowthrateandisshowingallthesignsoffallingunderthespellofluxurybrands.IndiaalwayshadathinuppercrustofoldmoneythatdiscreetlyshoppedinLondonandNewYorkforluxuryessentials.Nowclankingnewmoneyisjoiningthespendingspree.Theseareearlydays,withonlyahandfulofluxurybrandsdroppinganchor,andadmittedlytheresalotofspadeworktobedoneintermsofdevelopingaretailinfrastructureandbuildingbrandawareness.Buttheseareexcitingtimeswhenfundamentalsocialchangesaresweepingaonceconservativecountry.ThespurtinITandoutsourcingbusinessesisputtingsubstantialmoneyinyounghands.Themediaexplosionisbringinginglobalvalues.SplurgingoncreditisreplacingGandhianfrugality.Bollywood,whichhasastrangleholdonthenationscollectivepsyche,isdepictingextremelyliberalfashionsinitsfilms.Midnightschildrenaregivingwaytoliberalizationsoffspringfertilegroundindeedforluxurybrandstotakerootandprosper.
DEMOCRATIZATION OF LUXURY IN THE 1990SWhatcausedtheexplosionofluxurybrandsinAsia?Afortuitousalignmentofthestars,youmightcallit.Inthe1990stheEuropeanluxuryindustrywasgoingthroughamajorchange,sheddingitstraditionalfamilybusinessmindsetandreinventingitselfasalean,meancorporatemachinewithglobalretailingambitions.Forseniormanagement,changinghemlinesbecamealesserprioritythangrowingtoplinesandfatteningbottomlines.Spunkynewcreativebloodwasinstalledtoenergizeagingluxuryhouses,andmoreaffordablereadytowearandaccessorieswereusedtowooyoungerandmoremainstreamconsumers.Democratizationwasthebuzzword,throwingthedoorsofexclusivityopentoordinarypeople.AtthesametimetheeconomiesofAsiawereboomingandafreshlyprosperousgenerationwasraringtoacquirethenewfangledsymbolsofwealth.Thefrugallivingethicoftheirhardworkingparentsslowlyevaporatedmoneymadeeasilywasspentjustaseasily,andthecultofluxurywentfrommildinfatuationtomanicobsessioninthespaceofafewquickyears.
Hautecouturefinallyranoutofcommercialsteaminthe1970s,
withthenumberofclientssaidtohavedwindledto3,000, not
enoughtokeepanindustrygoing.Theroleofhautecoutureshiftedfrommaincoursetoappetizerbigrunwayshowsusedtospinoutmarketingpropaganda,onthebackofwhichrantherealmoneymakingbusinessofreadytowearandaccessories,apracticethatcontinuestoday.Thenewclientswereyoungerand
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theyneitherhadthebigbucksneededforserioushautecouture,norwasittheirstyletobetieddownbyelaborateoutfitsinthefreespirited1970s.Readytowearandaccessorieswerealsotheidealvehicleforexpandingintonewmarkets,whichbecameanecessityasluxuryhousessearchedforfreshavenuesforgrowth.DesignerslikeYvesSaintLaurentopenedboutiquesworldwide.Licensingbecameacommonmethodforenteringnewmarkets,anditsmasterpractitioner,PierreCardin,builtanempirelendinghisnametoagrowingandattimesbizarrelistofproducts,includingchocolatebarsandfryingpanstodayPierreCardinhas
900licenseholdersin140countries,27inChinaalone.
FranchisingwasalsoapopulardistributionmethodforEuropeanbrandstoextendtheirreach.
However,manylicenseestookagreatdealoflicensewiththebrandsundertheircare,theproductoftenbeingcheapanddamagingtothebrandname,completelydisastrousintheluxurycontext.ManyAsianfranchisees,ontheotherhand,mayhavestucktothebriefintermsofhowthebrandoperationwasrun,buttheyhadatendencytomilkitdry,alwaysreluctanttoinvestinthemarketingexpendituresonecessarytobuildandsustainaname.Asaconsequence,manybrandsunderperformed.Luxurycompaniesawoketotheneedforcontrolandsteppedintotheretailingarenathemselves.Theyboughtbacklicensesenmasseforexample,YSLhadboughtback152licensesby2001. Theycentralizedproductionandintegratedvertically,backwardsandforwardstheluxurycompaniessimplytookchargeofthewholeshowfromdesign,production,andmarketingtoretailing.Costcontrolbecameamajorpriority.Profitswereinfashionagain,andrapidgrowthwasthenewmuse.Frombeingprivatelyowned,manycompaniesalsonowansweredtothestockmarket,amoredemandingmistressthananyfashionistatheyhadeverserved.
Overthe1990s,luxurycompaniesadoptedaseriesofstrategiestospreadtheirgospel.
First,thestrategyofdistributioncontrolevolvedintomoreandmoreelaboratefreestandingstores,themostdizzyingexamplesinTokyowherebrandcathedralshavesprungup,risingseveralfloors.Forexample,thePradaEpicenterinAoyama,Tokyoisafuturisticsixstoryglassconfectionwithcaveliketubesthatserveasanintimateretailsetting.ThequalityofexecutionatthesenewstoresisoutstandingalloverAsia,andinTokyosomearesobeautifulyoufeeltheurgetokneelandworshipandofcourse,walkoutblessedwithapieceofluxe.Theirroleinbringingthebrandaliveandofferingtheconsumeranintimate3Dexperiencehasmadetheseflagshipsyetanothermarketingtoolintheluxuryarsenal.
Secondly,brandslikeChristianDiorreincarnatedthemselves,virtuallyabandoningtheiroldavatarforayounger,sexierone,
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whichstruckhomewithAsiasrelativelyyoungerconsumers.InmostAsianmarketsthebiggestspendersonluxurybrandsareyoungwomenbetweentheagesof20and30.Appealingtotheseyoungwomenmeantrecalibratingabrandscoolquotient,thatslipperyintangiblethatdefineshowinthebrandisamongtheirpeergroup,howwelltheyrelatetoit,howrelevantitistotheirlifestyle.Itentailedsheddingthebrandsstaidoldimageforayouthfulone,orwideningitsappealbyaddingtrendierproductslikeadenimhandbagtotheclassicrepertoire,asLouisVuittondid.
Thirdly,theluxuryindustryplayeditsmastermove,thelogoficationofthehandbag,plasteringinstantlyrecognizablesymbolsinacontinuouspatternalloverthebag.ForAsianconsumersthiswasagodsend:Itdidthejoboflettingpeopleknowyouwereofacertainclassandstandinginsociety.Weexaminethestatusdefiningroleofluxurybrandsingreaterdepthinthenextchapter,buthereweemphasizethatthelogoficationofbagswasthesinglemostimportantfactorinspreadingtheluxurybrandmaniainAsia.LuxurycompaniescottonedontothesimpletruththattheLVmonogramandtheGucciGswerewhatAsianconsumerswereafter,andsooneveryotherbrandfromCoachtoDior,FenditoFerragamowasdoingitstakeonthemonogram.Itisalessonthatmarketersofotherconsumergoodscanlearnlogolineshavegrownsofastthattheyaccountforupto80percentofsalesforsomebrands. Asiawasinthebag,sotospeak.
Fourthly,luxurybrandsstretchedtheyslicedanddicedapersonslifeandofferedaproducttofiteveryaspectofit,insideout,24/7,whereverheis,whateveractivitysheisengagedin.Abrandmighthavestartedlifeincouture,itsstrengthmightlieinhandcraftedleathergoods,oritmighthavebuiltareputationforfinejewelrybutnowitisextendingitsequityoveraspectrumofproducts.Everybrandseemstobefirmlyheadeddownthepathofprovidingafullsuiteofproductsandthatsuiteitselfgetsredefinedandenlargedeachday.Goingforaholidayonthebeach?TryaPradabikiniandD&Gflipflops.Skiing?Chanelhasarangeofglamourskiwear.Riding?HowaboutasaddlefromHerms?Goingtotheoffice?MaywesuggestaDunhillbriefcasedesignedtocradlealaptop?Wantthetime?CheckoutLouisVuittonslatestlineofwatches.Somethingforbaby?Hermshasarangefornewborns.Adiaperbagformommy?BabyDiorhasthelook.AniPodcase?TryGucci.Loungingathome?Versacesofa.Goingtosleep?RalphLaurenbedsheets.DecoratingtheChristmastree?ArmaniCasahasmodernbaubles.Thisinvasionofdesignerbrandsintoeverydetailhastakentheculttoanotherlevel,andbyincreasingthecatchmentarea,luxingupeveryaspectoflife,companiesarerakinginevenlargerrevenues.
Luxuryhasntjustbeendemocratized,itsbecomeinescapable.
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THE MALLING OF ASIAHandinhandwiththeeconomicboomandurbanizationinAsiacameanexplosioninretaildevelopment,therebyprovidingthenecessaryinfrastructureforluxurybrandstores.ItstartedwithdepartmentstorechainsinJapan,suchasMitsukoshi,Sogo,Isetan,Seibu,andDaimaru.SoontheJapanesebecamesogoodatsettingupdepartmentstoresthattheyweredoingitinotherAsianmarketslikeHongKong,Taiwan,andSouthKorea.ElsewhereinAsiasmegacitiesshoppingmallsstartedspringingupinthe1980s,atrendthatacceleratedinthe1990s.Theyofferedamerrymixofretail,food,andentertainment,aonestopleisuredestinationthatpulledinthecrowds.IncitieslikeManilaandBangkok,mallsalsoplayedaverybasicroleinprovidingachilledatmosphereratherthanfryinginthehotsunoutside,loungearoundinthecoolerclimesofanairconditionedmall,evenifyouonlywindowshop.
ThemallingofAsiaandhereweusetheterminabroadsensetoincludethevarietyofretailcenterformatsthatdottheurbanlandscapehasplayedmidwifetothebirthofthecult,makingavailableupscaleretailspace,theambienceandatmosphericsconsistentwiththehighendimagethatluxurybrandsneed.Infact,inmanyupandcomingAsiancitiesthelackofsuitableretailspacehassloweddownthemarchofluxury,forcingfriendsLouisVuitton,Gucci,Prada,etal.tospendthefirstfewyearsinimprovisedstoresinthelobbiesoffivestarhotelsuntiltheretailinfrastructurecatchesup.
Moreimportantly,themallingofAsiahasprovidedareallifesettingforconsumerstolearnaboutluxurybrandsandthelifestyletheydenote.ThisisthethemethatsociologistKenYoungamplifieswhenhecallsshoppingmallsopenaccessacademiesofsocialdistinction. Aspeoplewanderthroughamall,lookingatshopwindows,tryingoutproducts,observingothershoppers,theyaretakinginimportantlessonsinconsumptionbehavior.Whatismore,theyarelearningtoslotbrandsintostatushierarchies,pickingupcuesfromthestoresettingsandlocation.Oftenthecheapandcheerfulbrandsareonthelowerfloors,andasyourisehighersodoesthecaliberofthebrandand,needlesstosay,theprice.Howdoyouwanttopackageandpresentyourself?Overtime,andaprocessofhitandmiss,youlearntherightbrandsandproductstohelpyoucreatetheidentityyoudesire.
THE WORLDS BIGGEST MARKET TODAY: ASIATheAsianluxurygoodsmarketconstitutes37percentoftheglobalmarketofUS$80billion(Figure1.1).TheactualsizeofAsianspendingishigherbecauseoftheAsianpenchantforshoppingabroad,ablyledbytheJapaneseandChinese,easilyaddinganother1520percenttothecontinentsshare.Byconservativeestimates,itwouldbefairtosaythatAsians
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consumehalftheworldsluxurybrands(Figure1.2).
Figure1.1Asiaistheworlds#1luxurymarket:GeographicbreakdownSource:Authorsanalysis.
Figure1.2MajorbrandsearnmorethanhalftheirrevenuefromAsianconsumers.Source:JPMorgan,EuropeanLuxuryGoodsSector,2November2005.
WithinAsia,Japandominateswithasumosized62percentshare.HongKonghasalwaysbeenthesecondbiggestcurrentlya12percentsharebutthatsapositionitwillsoonhavetocedetoChina,whichisgrowingbyleapsandbounds.SouthKoreaisthenextsubstantialmarketwithan8percentshare.TaiwanandSingaporecontribute23percenteach.OtherSoutheastAsiancountriesThailand,thePhilippines,Indonesia,andMalaysiaarestillrelativelysmallluxemarkets,butthereisaselectgroupofextremelywealthybusinessfamilies,mostlyofChineseorigin,whoregularlyshopabroad,eitherinHongKong,Singapore,orEurope.
Letslookatthingsfromabrandsperspective.Ifyoursisamajorbrand,expecttogetathirdtohalfofyoursalesfromAsia
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(pluslotsmorefromAsiantouristsflockingtoyourstoresinEuropeandtheUS).Ofcourse,theJapaneseconsumerwouldbeyourdarling,aluxeglutton,gorgingheartilyathomeandthenfeastingabundantlyabroad.IfyouremovedtheJapaneseconsumermomentarilyfromtheequationafeatthatcouldonlybeaccomplishedbydraggingherscreamingandshoutinginamostunJapanesemannerthenyoursaleswouldsimplytakeanosedive.ThatisthedegreeofluxebrandsdependenceonJapan.
HowdeeplyentrenchedistheluxehabitinAsia?InJapan,anestimated25percentoftheadultpopulationownsaluxuryproduct.ForotherAsiancountriesthepenetrationofluxeisabouthalfofJapans.AsurveybymarketresearchfirmSynovate,coveringHongKong,SouthKorea,andSingapore,foundthatbetween12and15percentofAsianshadpurchasedaluxurybrandinthelastsixmonths. ThesamesurveyvalidatedwhatisabundantlyclearonthestreetsAsiasloveforthedesignerbag.InHongKong,awhopping64percentofluxeshopperssurveyedhadboughtleathergoodsinthepastsixmonths.
WhatareAsiasfavoritebrands?AsiansmakenobonesaboutthefactthattheyareafterfamousbrandsthetermforluxurybrandsinseveralAsiancountriestranslatesintojustthat.SowhileAsiaisahighlycompetitivemarketwithover100companiessluggingitout,consumersaremoreinterestedinthewinners.Basedonsalesfiguresandbrandimageindicators,wehavecompiledAsiasTopTen(Table1.1).ItconfirmswhateveryluxelovingAsianalreadyknows:ThereisnothingtobeatthecharmsofLouisVuittonandRolex.
Wherewillfuturegrowthcomefrom?Theansweristhesameasforeveryproductcategoryintheworld:ChinaandIndia,thetwinenginesofgrowthinthetwentyfirstcentury,Chinaofferingthemoreimmediateopportunity,Indiathelongertermplay.BernardArnault,chairmanandCEO,LVMHGroup,remarkedinthecompanysannualreportthatgeographicalgrowthopportunitiesaremainlytobefoundinAsia,mostnotablyChina,amarketthatisawakeningtoluxuryproducts. Heshouldknow:LouisVuittonhasseenitsbusinessgrowbycloseto50percenteveryyearsinceitenteredChinain1992,anditwasprofitablefromyearone.Needlesstosay,ArnaultseesIndiaasanotherpromisingterritoryforthefuture.
Table1.1LouisVuittonisAsias#1favorite
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GivenChinasgunghogrowthtrajectory,thequestioniswhenitsluxurymarketwillsurpassJapans.Thegeneralexpectationisaround2014,aboutthesametimethatChinaseconomyisexpectedtoovertakeJapans,butitmaywellhappensoonerforseveralqualitativereasons.ThedelicateJapanesecultureallowsforonlysubtledisplaysofwealth,butinChinaitisallaboutblatancyyouwinrespectandadmirationforachievingsuccess.TheJapanesearediligentemployeeswhotoilhardinbigcorporationsforfixedsalariestheChineseareanationofaggressiveentrepreneursintentonmakingitrich.JapanesemenallowtheirwivestoshopfortheirclothesChinesemenhaveledthefashionmovementinChina,andthemensmarketisbiggerthanthewomenseventoday.Japanesewomentendtobefollowers:Theyallrushintothesameshops,buyingupthesameproducts.Ofcourse,fashionbydefinitionhastohaveapopularfollowing,butthefactthatChinesewomenaremotivatedbytheneedtostandoutasagainstmergeintoaLouisVuittoncarryingcrowdmeansthatthereismoreroomforavibrantfashionscenetoemerge.AndthentherestheChinesetrumpcard,theShanghainesewoman,bornwithinbuiltfashionantennaeandatankfulofsassandspunk.ShellmakesurethattheParisoftheEastregainsitsrightfulplace.
IsChinathenewJapanforluxurybrands?Onlyinsofarasitpresentsanuntappedpotentialformassivelongtermgrowth.Forthemostpart,ChinaissimplythenewChina.Itoffersitsownsetofopportunitiesandchallenges.Thereisplentyoflegworkstilltodoandrobustprofitabilityisdowntheline.IanHawksworth,executivedirectorofHongKongLand,whichholdsthemostprestigiousretailpropertyportfolioinHongKong,comments:
Itsnotaprofitablemarketdomesticallyinthenextthreetofiveyearsbecauseofthecostofdoingbusinesstherethe
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establishmentofnewstores,theestablishmentofdistributionchannels,thetaxationpositiononluxurygoods.AsWTObites,themarginswillbecomeeasiertoachieveinChina.
THE RISE OF SHOWBUZZTwomajorforcesfueledthespreadofluxury:theconglomerationoftheluxebusiness,andtheemergenceofanewkindofmarketing,partshowbiz,partprofessionalbuzzwecallitshowbuzzmarketing.
Conglomeration of Luxury
Inthegoodolddaysthedesignerwasthebrand.JeanneLanvinstartedthehouseofLanvin,GabrielleChanelwastheforcebehindtheHouseofChanel,ChristianDior,HubertdeGivenchy,YvesSaintLaurenttheyallbroughttheirowntalent,personality,andmystiquetobearincreatingacouturehouseintheirname.Theymayhavebeenapprenticedunderanestablishednamebeforeventuringoutontheirown,asYvesSaintLaurentwasunderDior,ortheymayhavetakenthehelpinghandofasavvybusinesspartnertobankrollthem.Oritmayhavebeenafamilyaffair:AldoGuccicarryingonwhatdadGucciohadstarted,orGeorgesVuittonbuildingonthefinetraditionofparentLouis.Thenameonthebusinesswasthenameofthedesignertheirvisionledthefutureoftheirdesignhouse.Theymayhavefloggedthename,asPierreCardinandYvesSaintLaurentdidusinglicensingarrangementstospreadtheirwingstofarflungplaces,squeezingasmuchprofitaspossibleinonelifetimebutatleastitwastheirownnametheysold.Thedesignerwasintegraltothebrand,andthebusinessmodelwassimple:thedesigner,theirname,theirbusiness.
Allthatchangedwithoneman,BernardArnault.SofartheFrenchhadexcelledatdesigningfashion,butthisFrenchmantookagiantleapoutsidetheboxandsetaboutdesigningthebusinessoffashion.Arnaultdidntseethepointoflimitingthescopeofacompanybyrunningitlikeamomandpopstore,albeitahighfashionone,whentherewasthepossibilityofconqueringtheworldandrakinginhighersalesandhigherprofits.Andhedidntseethepointoffollowingrules.Inhisvisioneverythingwasinterchangeable,designerscouldbehiredandfired,brandscouldbeboughtandsold,managementchanged,andcompaniesrestructured.Big,thatswhatArnaultwasafter,abigconglomerateofbrandswithbigrevenuesandbigprofits.Likeagameofluxemonopoly,hesetaboutbuyingprestigiousbrandsandbuildingthemintolargerprofitgeneratingmachines.Withonebrandyouhadonlysomuchreach,financialmuscle,andnegotiatingpowerwithastableofbrandsyoucalledtheshots.
Arnaultsetthetrend,andotherluxemonopolyplayersfollowed.Thispursuitofgreatersizeandgreaterprofitshelpedtheluxury
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culturespreadlikewildfire.Theformulaofthe1990sconsistedoffindingnewbrands(eveniftheywereacenturyold)tobuy,findingahotnewdesignertobreathelifeintothemandahotnewmanagementtomatch,findingnewproductstostampthosebrandson,findinglargenewconsumersegmentstobuythem,andfindingnewmarketsallovertheworldtoselltheminallthetimeexercisingcontroloncosts,controlonproduction,controlondistribution,controlonbrandexpression.Controlfreakswithexpansionisttendencies,youmightcalltheseluxuryconglomerates,justthesortofcompaniesthatstockmarketslove,soofcoursegoingpublicbecamethemode,listingonbothsidesoftheAtlantic,bringingincashtofinancealltheexpansionactivity.
TheconglomerationoftheluxurybusinessbeganinearnestwhenArnaulttookoverChristianDiorinthemid1980s,buyingitsholdingcompany,abankrupttextilefirmcalledBoussac.HefollowedthatwitharatheracrimonioustakeoverofLouisVuittonMotHennessyin1989,andhesbeenshoppingaggressivelyeversince. Theresult:anempireofover50brandswhichbroughtin13.9billioninrevenuesin2005 thatwillkeepyoucoveredinluxuryfromheadtotoeandinfinespiritstoo.ArnaulthasfashionandleathergoodsbrandssuchasGivenchy,Loewe,Celine,Kenzo,MarcJacobs,Fendi,DonnaKaran,andmore.Hehaspickedupanequallyimpressiveportfolioofcosmeticandperfumebrands,ParfumsChristianDiorandGuerlainamongthem.HehasboughtwatchbrandslikeTAGHeuer,Ebel,Zenith,andChaumet,andhasnowextendedtheLouisVuittonnameintowatches.Hesgottopqualitywinesandspirits:Mot&Chandon,DomPerignon,andVeuveCliquot,whichisapparentlythebeverageofchoiceatthefamedLouisVuittonstoreopeningparties.HesalsointoretailingwithdesignercosmeticsatSephoraandsellingluxurytotravelersatDFS.Thejewelinthecrown,however,remainsLouisVuitton,itsmonogrammedwaresspreadinglikeanunstoppableepidemic.
IfLouisVuittonisthebread,butter,andjamfortheworldsbiggestluxurygroup,theFrenchbrandCartierplaysthesameroleforthesecondlargestgroup,SwitzerlandsRichemont,startedbySouthAfricanbillionaireAntonRupertin1988andlaterrunbysonJohann.Richemontisanotherwellspreadconglomeratewithamajorinterestinwatchesandjewelry,whichaccountsfortwothirdsofitsbusiness. Ithasadrawerfulloftopdrawerwatches:Piaget,Baume&Mercier,VacheronConstantin,IWC,JaegerLeCoultre,andLange&Shneamongthem.TheresVanCleef&Arpels.TheresMontBlanc.TheresAlfredDunhill.Inotherwords,theresacollectionofbrandsthatAsialoves,especiallyChina,wherepeoplebuyCartierwatchesbythedozenasgifts,aswellasenoughblazersandbriefcasestokeepDunhillsretailnetworkof50pluspointsofsaletickingaway.Intermsofsales,theRichemontGrouphasaboutathirdofLVMHs.
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ThethirdsignificantluxeconglomerateistheGucciGroup.ItsbusinesshistoryreadslikeaHollywoodthriller:Anearinsolventfeudingfamilybusinessbecomesthemosttalkedaboutturnaround,thenthesubjectofafiercetakeoverbattlebytwoofthemostheadstrongFrenchmenintheluxurybusinessLVMHsArnault,andFranoisPinault,whoheadstheFrenchretailconglomeratePPR(previouslyPinaultPrintempsRedoute)thentransformsitselfintoamajorluxurygroupandgoesshoppingforbrandsitself.Inthelate1980sGucciwasgaspingforbreathandDomenicodeSoleasCEOandTomFordascreativedirectorwerebroughtintoresurrectit,whichtheydidsosuccessfullythateverybrandsincedreamsofdoingaGucci.FordssexydesignsandsavvyadvertisingcampaignsnottomentionhisownmoviestarlooksandirresistiblecharmhadwomendroolinginthenewlyrevampedchainofGucciboutiquesaroundtheworld.GuccishookAsia,itbecamethebrandtodiefor,andeventoday,althoughLouisVuittonoutstripsitinsales,formanyAsiansGucciisthefirstbrandthatcomestomind,andtheonetheywouldlovetobuy.
Table1.2TheconglomeratesbehindsomeofAsiasfavoritebrands
In1999ArnaultmountedatakeoverattemptonGucci,buthisbidwasfoiledbyPinault,whopurchaseda42percentstake.Itwascorporatewarfare,glovesoff,withplentyoflawsuitsandcontroversialpress.Theboardroomactionbecameasinterestingastheshowonthecatwalks.Pinaultwontheday.HealsosubsequentlyboughtanothercompanythatArnaultwasafter,SanofiBeaut,whichownsYSL.
GucciGrouphassinceacquiredSergioRossi,BottegaVeneta,Boucheron,andBalenciaga,besidesluxurywatches,cosmetics,
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andperfumes.InyetanothertwisttotheGuccisaga,FordanddeSolelefttheempiretheyhelpedcreatewhentheircontractsexpiredin2004reportedly,theycouldntseeeyetoeyewithPinaultontheirdegreeofautonomyinrunningthebusiness tobereplacedbyRobertPolet,formerheadofUnileversicecreamunit.PinaultfinallyownsthewholeshowPPRboughtbackminoritysharesandtheGucciGroupwasdelistedfromtheAmsterdamandNewYorkstockexchanges.
Theforcesofconglomerationinfluencedsmallerluxuryhousesaswell.Pradawentonashoppingspree,buyingJilSander,HelmutLang,andChurch&Co.Hermsacquireda35percentstakeinJeanPaulGaultier.
PartoftheconglomerationstrategyistoinfusefreshlifeintoacquiredbrandstodoaGucci,sotospeak.TodoaGucciyouneedaTomFord,andwhilethereisjustoneofhim,theresafairsupplyofexcitingnewdesignerswithplentyofartistictalent.Thesearchforgutsydesignerstogiveamoderntwisttoagingbrandshasresultedinaninterestinggameofmusicalchairs.Ironically,vintageFrenchandItalianbrandsarebeingentrustedtoyoungAmericanandBritishdesigners.
Arnaultistheacknowledgedmasteratconductingtwentyfirstcenturysurgeryonnineteenthcenturybrands,findingtherightbalancebetweenlifegivinginnovationandthebrandstraditionalcore.AmericanMarcJacobsisthedesignerbehindtheupdatedimageofLouisVuitton,wittilyaddingatouchofpopandkitsch.FellowAmericanMichaelKors,knownforhisminimalistapproach,wasthemanArnaultchosetoreviveCeline.ForChristianDior,ArnaultfirsthiredGianfrancoFerrein1989,thenreplacedhimwithSpanish(butraisedintheUK)JohnGallianofromhousebrandGivenchy.BritishdesignerAlexanderMcQueenfilledGallianosspotatGivenchy,beforedefectingtorivalGucciGroupandsettinguphisownlabel.Inthemeantime,Gallianocontinuestoshockanddelightwithayoung,brash,urbansexinessthatisthenewnewlook,milesawayfromtheladylikeglamorousNewLookthatChristianDiorcreatedin1947.
AtRichemontsfashionhouseChlo,StellaMcCartney(daughterofexBeatlePaulMcCartney)succeededthelegendaryKarlLagerfeldin1997,makingwaveswithherfirstcollection,whichcombinedvintagetoucheswithmoderntailoring.McCartneydidaMcQueen,formingherownlabelundertheGucciGroup.HerassistantandgoodfriendPhoebePhilo,alsofromBritain,tookoveratChlo(untilshealsoleftin2006),withsuchsuccessrumorsswirledthatPhilowasdoingthedesigningallalong.
ItsnotjustAmericandesignerswhoarelendingahandintherejuvenationofEuropeanbrands:Americanmanagersarepitchingintoo,bringingamuchneededprofessionaltouch.RosemaryBravosturnaroundoftheveryBritishlabelBurberry
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isashiningexample.Shearrivedin1997and,withthehelpofItaliandesignerRobertoManichettiandanadvertisingcampaignbymasterphotographerMarioTestino,teleportedBurberryintomoderntimes,showingsupermodelKateMossinaskimpybikinimadeoftheancientBurberrytartan.MichaelBurke,anotherAmerican,hasbeenwithArnaultrightfromthestartofhisLVMHempirebuildingforay(itshowsinBurkesfaultlessFrenchaccentandeffortlessshouldershrugging),playedasignificantroleinthegroupssuccessandtheturnaroundofChristianDior,andisapplyinghistouchtogroupbrandFendi.
The Emergence of Showbuzz Marketing
Withtheluxurybusinessitselfchangingmassivescale,globalcoverage,professionalmanagementthemarketingandpromotionofthatbusinesstookonsimilarcharacteristics.WhereasthelikesofCocoChanelandChristianDiorpresentedtheircollectionsinasmallsalon,todaysfashionshowsarenothingshortofshowbiz.Whereasearlierafewinfluentialmagazineeditorsdictatedthedisseminationoffashioninformation,nowhugemediaempireswithglobalcoveragecarpetbombtheplanetwithuptotheminutefashionintelligence.Thecreationofbuzzgettingyourbrandtalkedabout,makingsureitstaysinthenewshasgoneprofessionaltoo,deployingarangeofPRtechniquestomakeasplash,includinghiredcelebritiesandoverthetopevents.Itsthenewshowbuzzmarketing,combiningtheprinciplesofshowbizandbelowthelinebuzzgeneration.
Theneedforthisnewkindofmarketingwasclear.Theearlierconceptofluxurygoodsbasedonskilledcraftsmanship,exclusivity,andlongevitybecameincreasinglyirrelevantwithinamachinemade,technologyenabledproductionprocess,withbatchesfarmedouttofactoriessometimescontinentsawayfromthehomeofthebrand.Today,itstheauraandimagethatyoubuildaroundthelogo,theintangiblecomehitherappealthatyouembedinitsleather,orthecoolquotientthatyouimbueintotheluxeconsumingpublicsmindthatswhatconsumersbuyasmuchastheybuythebag.Fromtheproductanditsinherentquality,thefocushasshiftedtothebrandanditsimage.GrantMcCrackeninCultureandConsumptioncallsthistheprocessofmeaningmanufacture,wherethankstoadvertisingandthefashionsystem,culturallysignificantmeaningismovedintoconsumergoods.
Asfarasluxelandisconcernedshowbuzzmarketingboilsdowntocreatingtherightkindofbuzz,packagingitneatly,andsellingitatthestore.Wellbeforetheconsumerreachesthatstore,theresawholearmyofimagesandwordsassaultingher,createdbyamediaandmarketingjuggernautworkingatfullblastonbehalfofthebrand.Bythetimeshetriesonadressfromthelatestcollection,orconsidersthepurchaseofanewbaginthestorewindow,shealreadyhasdefiniteperceptionsaboutthebrandand
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theparticularpieceinquestion.AndifsheisJapanese,shecouldeffortlesslywritea2,000wordpaperonit,fullofexquisitedetailsaboutthedesigner,thethemeofhislatestcollection,howitlinksbacktohisearlierwork,themodelwhowalkeddownthecatwalkwearingit,thebignamesintheaudience,theinternationalcelebritieswhoaresportingitcurrently,andthelocalonestoboot.Todaysluxeconsumerconsumesthebuzzasmuchasshedoestheproduct,andshespendstimediscussingitwithherpals.Latestbrandarrivalsarealegitimatetopicofconversation,andwhatyouhaveonandwhatyouplantopurchaseareinterestingfacilitatorsofsocialinteractioninAsia.
Themassmesmerizationwithfashiononaseasonbyseasonbasisisadirectresultoftheindustrytakingoncharacteristicsofshowbiz.ThesamehumanfascinationwithglamourandcelebritiesthatdrawsadoringcrowdstoHollywoodmoviesandalltheperipheralactionandgossipalsodrawsthemtothefashionworld.CatwalkshowsinParisandMilanhavebecomeextravagantproductionsstagedwiththeatricalexpertise.Theme,venue,music,lights,sets,choreography,stylingeverythingismanagedtocreateabigbang,visualimpact.Itspureentertainment,audaciousclothes,glamorousmodels,andplentyofleg,breast,andmoreondisplay.AndtheshowsarestagedasmuchfortheliveaudienceofAlistheadturnerssittingaroundthecatwalkastheyarefortheglobalpressthatbeamstheminstantaneouslytotheworld.
Therearetelevisionchannelsdevotedtofashion,leavealonenumerouswebsites.Imagesfromtheshowsarecarriedbyfashionandlifestyleglossies,internationaltitleslikeElle,Vogue,andCosmopolitan,aswellasaslewoflocalmagazinesthatdishoutfashionadvice.InChinaalone,some200newfashionandlifestylemagazineshavesprungupinthelastfiveyears.JapanesefashionglossieshavebecomesogoodthattheyaresoughtafterinmarketslikeTaiwan,wherethecurrentgenerationcantevenreadJapanese.Butthatsthepoint:Thisvisualcultureisuniversallyunderstood,itdoesnotneedtobetranslatedintoanywrittenlanguage.
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Fromthecosycalmoftheearlysalonshowingstotherazzledazzleoftodaysrunwayacts,fashionshowshavetransformedintoshowbiz.Left,amodelposesinanearlyChristianDiordressinarathersedatesettingbelow,amodelstrutsdowntherampinadazzlerfromJohn
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GallianoscollectionforDior.PhotoleftbyHenriCartierBresson,courtesyofMagnum.PhotobelowcourtesyofDior.
WomeninAsiaareknowntotearoutpicturesfrommagazines,shotsstraightfromtheramps,andwalkintostoresseekingtheentirelook,headtotoe.TherichandfamousgoastepfurtherandtaketheleadfromthericherandmorefamousforexampleHalleBerrysElieSaabdesignedOscardress,asheersheathwithstrategicallyplacedflowers,wassportedbyHongKongsocialiteOliviaDavies,whohastoppedlocalbestdressedlists.Lessermortalshaveavirtualrelationshipwithdesigners,muchlikeafanofJenniferLopezwouldwiththesinger.IfyouheartheintimacywithwhichaJapanesewomantalksaboutMarcJacobs,youareconvincedthatheisindeeddesigningthoseexquisiteoutfitsandaccessoriesjustforher,oneonone.
Sowhatistheroleofadvertisinginthisshowbuzzmarketingera?Itsaliveandwell,butitsrolehasevolved.Advertisingcreatesawareness,itdefinesthebrandsimage,buttodaysskepticalconsumerpaysmoreheedtowhatmagazineeditorialsaresaying.ManyAsianconsumersdontevenbotherwiththeinherentimageofabrand.TryexplainingthefactthatthefavoritebrandofJapaneseteenagersisthedecidedlymaturewomansHermstheyareonlyinterestedinhowinthebrandisamongtheirpeers.Forthatkindofinformation,itisfarmoreusefultocheckoutwhoiswearingwhatinthecompanyofwhomatwhicheventbacktogoodoldbuzzconsumption.Thatswhereadvertisementscomeinextremelyhandyafterall,whicheditorisgoingtotreatabigadvertiserunkindlyintheireditorialcontent?Ifyoureaconglomerateyourstableofbrandsputsyouinanenviablepositionbesidesexcellentadvertisingrates,youarelikelytogetexcellenteditorialcoverage.
Brandpartiesaretheragethesedays,withthelocalwhoswhoinattendancethesecanrangefromcozylittleaffairstomammothextravaganzas,especiallyinChina.Theyensurethatbrandnamesfillthesocietypagesandgossipcolumnsinlocalnewspapersandmagazines.Inanecontroversiesarecreated.Forexample,aHongKongactresswasaccusedofhijackingtheFendishowingofitsautumnwinterfurcollectionbyarrivinginaLouisVuittondresswithanecklinethatdidntjustplunge,itbungeed.Asaresult,theactressandherassetsgotmorepresscoveragethantheFendimodels. Celebritiesareincreasinglybeinghiredasbrandambassadors,withthespecificpurposeofappearingateventswearingaparticularbrand,resultinginreamsofnewscoverage.
Sometimesthebrandsdontevenhavetotrytobeinthenews.TheluxuryculturehasnotonlyspreadtoAsia,ithasseepedinsodeepthatitwellsuponitsown,withoutanyeffortbythebrandatall.Showbuzzonautopilot.Inthe2003SuddenAcuteRespiratorySyndrome(SARS)epidemicthatsweptthrough
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HongKong,residentsrushedtobuyvirusprotectivemasks.RumorsspreadthatGucciandLouisVuittonhadputdesignermasksonthemarket,theLouisVuittononeapparentlymadeofsupersoftleatherwithamonogrammedsterlingsilverclasp.Thisledtoadelugeofcallsatthecompanysstoresandoffices.Itturnedouttobeahoax,butmanywishedithadbeentrue.Afterall,agirlneedsagoodlookingmasktogowithherGucciandChaneloutfits.
FASHION
1837LouisVuittonstartsmakingtrunksatthecourtofEmpressEugenieandgoesontoopenhisfirststoreinParisin1854.Acenturyandahalflater,hisbrandconquerstheheartsoftheJapaneseanditsbrownmonogrambagsbecomederigueurforAsiasnouveauxriches.
1837ThierryHermsstartsasaddlerycompany,whichismodernizedacenturylaterbyhisgrandsonEmile.ItsfamedBirkinbagsatjawdroppingpriceshavemadeitthemostdesiredstatussymbolinAsia.
1895ThomasBurberrycreatesthetrenchcoat.FirstwornbyBritishofficersduringtheBoerWar,itisnowsowellentrenchedinAsiathatBurberryistheKoreanwordforraincoat.
1913CocoChanelopensherfirststoreinParis,andgoesontoshakethecitywithherbreakingthemoldfashionstatements,aswellasherunconventionallifestyle.Today,hersignaturestylehasfoundawidefollowinginAsia,fromJapaneseteenagerstoKoreanbarhostesses.
1915ThebeginningofBurberryslongandcheckeredhistoryinJapan,includingBurberryfeverinthe1980sandaJapanonlyBlueLabel,immenselypopularwithyoungwomen.GettingthereearlycertainlyhelpedBurberryenjoysoneofthelargestretailsalesamongimportedluxurybrands.
1932GuccioGuccidesignstheclassicGucciloafers,asymbolforthewealthy.Ayearlaterhisson,Aldo,createstheinterlockingdoubleGlogo(afterhisfathersinitials),whichhalfacenturylaterbecomestheragealloverAsia.
1935SalvatoreFerragamosetsuphisworkshopinFlorence.HewasdubbedshoemakertothestarsandhisshoesareamusthaveitemforeverySouthKoreanwomantoday.
1947ChristianDiorsNewLookcollectioncreatesastirinParis,reshapingthefemaleformintoaneleganthourglass.Halfacenturylater,JohnGallianosoutrageousdesignscauseasimilarstiramongAsiasAlist.
1956HermsnamesGraceKellysmuchlovedbagafterheronhermarriagetoPrinceRainierofMonaco.Waitinglistsforthis
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todieforbag,costingUS$510,000,areindefinitelyclosedinAsia.
TIMELINE
1978MiucciaPradainheritshergrandfathersbusiness.HeruseofinnovativefabricsandherminimalistdesignsmakethetriangularPradasymboloneofthehottestinAsia.
1983KarlLagerfeld,newdesigndirectoratChanel,reinventstheoriginalspiritofCocoinamodernmtier.Thisisthefirstofwhatsoonbecomesabrandrejuvenationtrendamongluxurybrands.
1986ImeldaMarcossfamed3,000strongshoecollectioncomestolightafterthePeoplePowermovementoverthrowstheMarcosgovernment.
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1990TomFordjoinsGucciascreativedirectorand,togetherwithDominicdeSole,revivesthecompanytoamazingheightsofsuccess.
1999BurberryssignaturechecksonabikiniwornbyKateMosstransformthe100yearoldlabelintoamoderndaybrand.AsiaissoonawashinBurberrychecks,somewithalittlehelpfromthefertilecounterfeitmarket.
2001Hermss11storyglassbrickretailextravaganzaopensinGinza,Tokyo,creatinghysteriaamongwomenwhoqueueupseveraldaysinadvancetobuythelimitededitionbagspromisedonopeningday.TheRenzoPianodesignedflagshipstoresetsahighnoteforthemegasizedflagshipstoretrendthatcatchesoninJapan.
2001Plaza66,astateoftheartluxurymall,opensonShanghaisfamedshoppingstreetNanjingLu,pushingthecitysretailtoworldclasslevelsinonestroke.
2002QueuesbuildupthreedaysinadvancefortheopeningofLouisVuittonssixfloorflagshipstoreinOmotesando,Tokyo,anappropriateretailtemplefortheluxurybrandmostreveredbytheJapanese.
2006ThelikesofArmaniandChanelstagehautecoutureshowsinHongKong,signalingtheopeningupofalucrativeultrahighendsegmentinAsia.
2007IndiaentersanewphaseofluxuryretailingwiththelaunchofDLFEmporioinNewDelhi,thecountrysfirstluxurymallwithawhoswhorosteroftopbrands.
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Thelogoficationofbagsacceleratedthespreadofluxe
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maniaacrossthecontinent.PhotoscourtesyofCoachandFendiAsiaPacific.
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Everheardofathreeyearwaitinglistwhichyoucannolongergetontoforabag?!Theculprits:BirkinandKellybagsbyHerms.PhotoscourtesyofHerms.
Targeted malefrom: Fashion Brands, 3rd Edition by MarkTungateReleased: October 201217 MINS
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