122jan savoie
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8/13/2019 122jan Savoie
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F E B R U A R Y , 2 0 1 4 - S A V O I E
FRENCH QUARTERSW H A T T O E A T & D R I N K I N F R A N C E R I G H T N O W , E V E R Y M O N D A Y N I G H T A T L A F A Y E T T E
NEW YORK , NY
Périgord Truffle & Raclette
Croque Monsieur
~
Chestnut Velouté, Foie Gras
~
Milk-Fed Porcelet,
jerusalem artichoke gratin
~
Gâteau de Savoie,
poached lady apples,
chocolate chantilly
$65
SOM M E L I E R P A I R IN GS
2011 Domaine de la Tournelle
'Fleur de Savagnin'
~
2011 Celliers des Cray
Chignin-Bergeron
~
2011 Domaine de la Renardière
Arbois-Pupillin Trousseau
~Patrick Bottex Bugey-Cerdon
'La Cueille' Mèthode Ancestrale
$45
Every Monday Night in February
Q : W H A T I S F R E N C HQ U A R T E R S ?
A : F R A N C E is divided into 101
départements. Each month, we
look at one and tell you the things
we like about it the most i.e. the
food and the wine. Every Mondaynight at Lafayette, we offer a
menu of our findings.
T H I S M O N T H : S A V O I EN E X T M O N T H : G E R S
We love Savoie for its grassy
raclette cheese, weird vin juane and
the mirepoix of French luxury Alpine
skiing: Chamonix, Courchevel and
Val d'Isère.
It’s the dead of a cold, snowy winter
in New York City and we’re thinkingabout chalets and fresh powder.
We’re also enjoying higher than
usual doses of everything you’d find
on a true Savoyard’s dinner table;
grassy cheeses, forest chestnuts,
root vegetables, wild game, moun-
tain berries and porcelet.
We have always admired how the
French cook for the cold. It’s done
with fortifying braises, layered on
richness and deep, rooty flavors.
For February’s menu we are start-
ing with an American raclette from
Spring Brook Farm, our housemade
S A V O I Ebrioche and a traditional croque
monsieur laced with a little Périgord
truffle. Next up, roasted chestnut
velouté (recipe follows) poured
table-side over a foie gras torchon
and garnished with wintry bits like
grapes and brussels sprout petals. We’ve parceled out a milk-fed pig
from Québec to compose the
entrée. The pork shoulder has been
braised and confited in duck fat,
and the rotisserie porchetta was
fashioned from the belly, rack and
our own pork sausage. This is
accompanied by glazy, pork-roast-
ed apples, whole grain mustard
and a crock of creamy sunchoke
gratin. To finish up, a traditional
Gâteau de Savoie with poached
lady apples and boozy chantilly.
L E V I N D E S A V O I E
We think the wines of Savoie (and
the Jura, directly north) are among
the most exciting and unexplored of
France. These alpine regions along
the Swiss border run colder than
most wine producing regions,
nurturing vines and wines that are
comfortable alongside our wintry
menu.
Here are some of our favorite
grapes and wines from the Savoie:
Savagnin usually finds its way intothe local specialty Vin Jaune, which
is deliberately oxidized (and
requires an appetite for discovery).
This unusual, savory example is
vinified in the ways of traditional
table wine. The dry whites of the
Jura are usually 100% Chardon-
nay, and provide an excellent alter-
native to whatever other Chardon-
nay you’re drinking.
Vintners of Chignin-Bergeron grow
only Roussanne grapes, and
produce regrettably small quantities
of luscious, medium and full-bod-
ied whites.
Trousseau and Poulsard yield
light-bodied red wines with delicate
fruit, astonishing complexity and
incredible versatility with food.
These grapes are grown almost
nowhere else, and have the added
benefit of the Jura’s cool climatewhich guards against over-ripe-
ness.
We love to finish with the sparkling,
sweet rosé of Bugey-Cerdon, a wine
which undergoes only a single
fermentation, rather than the two
rounds of Champagne and other
Méthode Champenoise.
Toujours soif!
C H E S T N U T V E L O U T ÉI N G R E D I E N T S : Serves 6
1 lbs. peeled, roasted chestnuts
Herb sachet of fresh parsley, sage,
rosemary, bay leaf, black pepper-
corns, thyme, fennel seeds & clove
4 Tb. butter
2 leeks, whites only, rinsed & sliced
½ celery root, peeled and diced
1 carrot, peeled and diced
2 Tb. Armagnac
6 cups chicken stock
2 cups heavy cream
C O O K I N G M E T H O D :Make a sachet with your favorite herbs and spices. Sweat the leeks, celery
root and carrot in a pot with butter over medium-low heat. Add the chestnuts,
stir well, and deglaze with Armagnac. Add the stock and ½ of the cream.
Simmer over low heat until the vegetables and chestnuts are tender. Remove
the sachet and purée the mixture in a blender, adding the remaining cream
slowly until you achieve the desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper
and strain through a mesh sieve for best results.
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