Dr John Provost is an independent digital textile printing consultant and Technical Editor of Digital Textile magazine (published by World Textile Information Network of the UK). He was the 2009 winner of the Henry E. Millson Award for Invention, for the development of the first commercially available inkjet printer for textile fabrics, awarded by the American Association of Textile Chemists & Colorists (AATCC). He has been involved in digital ink jet printing for over 30 years, with ICI, Zeneca, Avecia, BASF AG and Provost Ink Jet Consulting Ltd, developing industrial ink printer solutions with the major print-head manufacturers, system integrators and machinery manufacturers and has been involved with many of the current digital textile printing developments.

He has been a consultant for Printing Technology for Everlight Chemical Industry Corporation since 2007. 

John has written more than 160 papers on colour physics, coloration, and both conventional and digital textile printing, and holds six patents in inkjet printing.

He awarded a B.Sc. (1st Class Honours) in Colour Chemistry and a Ph.D. in Colour Physics and is a Fellow of the UK Society of Dyers and Colourists and was awarded their Silver Medal for developments in the Textile Printing Industry.

Dr John Provost

Sustainable Textile Printing in the Future with DTP-Digital Textile Printing

Dr John ProvostDigital Textile Printing Consultant and Technical Editor Digital Textile Magazine

以數位紡織印花永續紡織印花的未來

Outline of Presentation ( 報告大綱 )

Brief overview of the Traditional Global Textile Printing Industry 簡述傳統全球紡織印花產業 Digital Textile Printing - Market Segmentation 數位紡織印花 - 市場分類 Digital Textile Printing -Estimates of Market Size 數位紡織印花 - 市場預估 Digital Textile Printing -Current Market Demands - Business Models and Overall

Costing 數位紡織印花 - 當前市場需求 - 商業模式和總體成本估算 Environmental Advantages and Cost Benefits of Digital Textile Printing 數位紡織印花的環境優勢和成本效益 Digital Textile Printing –Future Trends 數位紡織印花未來發展趨勢

66% of Traditional Textiles are printed fabrics are produced in ASIA 66 ％的傳統紡織品的印花面料都產自亞洲

China Produces 30% of World Production (~30 Billion Square Metres in 2014) 中國生產佔世界總產量的 30 ％（〜 2014 年 30 億平方米）

Traditional Analogue Textile Printing- Coloration (Dye-Pigment) Types 2014 – 30.0 Billion Square Metres傳統的紡織印花 – 依 色料（染料、顏料）類型 2014 年 - 30.0 億平方米

“Roll to Roll” Digital Textile Print Production Forecast 2013-2019 and Market Segmentation“ 卷對卷”數位紡織印花 2013 至 2019 年生產預測和市場分類

Global Share of Digital Printing by Industry Segment

China –Conservative Estimate in sq. metres

Market Share of Textile Printing Technologies 紡織印花技術的市場比例分佈

Textile Printing Machine Type

% Share

Rotary Screen Printing 65%

Automatic Flat ScreenPrinting

25%

Copper Roller Printing < 1%

Hand Screen Printing 3%

Dye Sublimation Transfer Printing

3%

Digital Textile Printing ~3%

Digital Textile Printing Market Segmentation and Estimates of Market Size 數位紡織印花 - 市場分類與規模預估

Market Drivers for Digital textile Printing市場朝向數位紡織印花 Increased Textile Print Design and Colourway Flexibility 提高紡織印花設計和配色靈活性 Lower Labour Costs and Overall much more Economic for production of “shorter production

run-medium run” prints-exact costs depend on specific market ( exact cross over depends on many factors – for high production machines cross over is in thousands of square metres) 較低的勞動成本和整體更經濟生產“短單生產到中批量生產”打印確切的成本取決於特定市場 （實際的交叉點取決於許多因素 - 高速生產機器交叉點已超過上千平方米）

Shorter delivery brings in increased savings to Brand Owners/Retailers -with changes to the Textile value proximity sourcing and replenishment sourcing strategies 較短的交期提高了品牌商及零售商的效益，改變了紡織價值鏈的採購和補貨採購策略

No Screen manufacturer, storage or disposal costs (Major Cost Consideration) 不需使用網板及其儲藏與銷毀成本 Future Integration of Textile Printing and “Making Up” in the Confectionary - Garment

Manufacturing Industry into single factory location nearer the final retailer/brand owner end user 紡織印花未來的整合創造了蜜糖 - 服裝製造業導入一個工廠生產直接提供給零售商 / 品牌擁有者 ( 最終用戶 )

Lower Water , Effluent, Emissions and Energy Usage+

Textile Printing - Segmentation by Digital Textile Applications紡織印花 – 依數位紡織印花應用區分

Digital Textile Market

Traditional Textile Printing Markets

Carpets/Tiles/Mats

Apparel/Fashion HomeTextiles

Flag/BannerMilitary

New Digital Textile Markets

54% of Analogue PrintingCarpets -Separate Industry-Valve Technology

41% of Analogue Printing

5 % Flag/Banner/Military

Digital Textile Printing – New Segmentation by Industrial Application數位紡織印花 - 依產業應用新細分

New Digital Textile Printing Markets

Sportswear-Football /Cycling shirts

Soft Signage Polyester “Direct to Fabric”

DTG Direct to GarmentT Shirt Printers

Industrial/TechnicalTextiles

Display Graphics -Polyester Dye Sub Transfer Paper

Route

數位紡織印花 - 機器發展由 掃描式到單次式

High Production Single Pass Digital Textile Printing Machine- Increasing Trend to Compete with Rotary Screen Production 高產能單次式數位紡織印花機 - 增強了與圓網印花機的生產競爭

The only commercial available single pass machine is the MS LA Rio ( Kyocera KJ4B Print Heads) developed and built by MS Italy (Acquired by the Dover Group of USA).

It is estimated 12-14 machines are running 唯一市售的單次式列印的數位紡織印花機是 MS La Rio （使用京瓷 KJ4B 噴頭）由意大利 MS 研發和製造（已被美國 Dover 集團收購）。 據估計有 12-14 設備在運行

High Production Single Pass Digital Textile Printing Machine- 3 Single Pass Machines to be Launched at ITMA 2015 -All Closed Ink Systems高產能的單次式列印數位印花機 – 已有 3 家單次式數位紡織印花設備將在 ITMA2015 展示 –都是封閉式供墨系統

Atexco (Honghua) China – VEGA 1 Hybrid Machine Single Pass +2 Rotary Heads – Fuji Dimatix Samba Print Heads

SPG(Stork )– Pike –Fuji Dimitix Samba Print Heads

Konica Minolta –Nassenger SP1 Konica Minolta Print Heads

Cost Equation for Digital Textile Printing vs. Rotary Screen Printing 數位紡織印花與圓網印花的成本對應圖

Production in Square meters

Rotary Screen PrintingDigital Textile

* Dr J Provost ,”Calculating the Advantages of Digital Textile Printing “, Digital Textile Magazine , Issue 4 2012

Digital Textile Factory Costs Amortization of High Production

Digital Textile Machines Print Head Replacement Costs Digital Print Production Speeds Printer Resolution , Type and No. of

Passes Type, Cost , Quality and

Consumption of Digital Textile Inks (in cost /square metre)

Fabric /pre-treatments costs Individual Country Macro Costs Specific Print Factory CostsEnvironmental Costs– Life

Cycle Assessments

Environmental Costs– LCA - Life Cycle Assessments (ISO 14040:2006)環境成本 - LCA - 生命週期評估（ ISO14040 ： 2006 ）

High % Savings are Quoted by Many Digital Textile Printing Machine Manufacturers 許多數位紡織印花機製造商聲稱可節省高比例的成本 To obtain Detailed Results – Actual Assessments have to be Made of Individual Factories

by Life Cycle Assessments 獲取詳細的結果 – 實際的評估是藉由個別工廠依生命週期方式進行評估Two European Studies Have Provided Detailed Results有兩個歐洲的研究提供詳細結果

Textile Print demanding More Green Chemistry Solutions due to increase Legislation Market Drivers for Digital因應法規要求紡織印花需要更多綠色化學解決方案 , 市場造就了數位印花

Screen Printing Digital Textile Printing

Lower Water , Effluent, Emissions and Energy Usage

材料能源排放物毒化物潛在風險使用的區域

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Digital Textile Printing Has Answers to Many of the Environmental Concerns數位紡織印花解答了許多環保問題 Reducing Waste Water Lower Energy Requirements Lower Emissions Lower Dye Usage

Higher Dye Fixation Easier Wash-off No Print Paste Required No Screens Required Lower Energy Requirements

Amendments Strengthen China's Environmental Protection Law

Two Detailed Studies in Europe Estimate the Size of Savings by DTP (Digital Textile Printing )

在歐洲有兩份針對數位印花所節省費用估算的詳細研究

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The examination of the environmental impacts in this study is based on life cycle assessment(LCA). LCA analyses the environmental aspects and potential impacts across the product lifecycle from cradle to grave, including raw material acquisition, production, use, end-of-lifetreatment, recycling, and final disposal, by examining the physical chains of material flows.LCA assesses the environmental impacts of product systems in accordance with the statedgoal and scope. (ISO 14040:2006) LCA 分析整個產品生命週期對環境方面的潛在影響週期從搖籃到墳墓，包括原材料採購，生產，使用，報廢的處理，回收和最終處置等

Environmental Costs– LCA - Life Cycle Assessments (ISO 14040:2006)環境成本 - LCA - 生命週期評估（ ISO14040 ： 2006 ）System Boundary Screen Printing System Boundary Digital Printing

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LCA - Life Cycle Assessments (ISO 14040:2006) – Example of Carbon Footprint Reduction by 40% - Water Usage in this study was reduced by 69%LCA - 生命週期評估（ ISO14040 ： 2006 ） - 碳足跡減量 40 ％的實例 - 用水量在這項研究中減少了 69 ％

* “Environmental performance of future digital textile printing “see www.vtt.fi/inf/julkaisut/muut/2014/VTT-CR-04462-14.pdf”

Cradle-to-gate carbon footprint of screen printed versus Digital [kg CO2eq/750m2 From A European Detailed Study*

Screen Printing

Digital Printing

- 40%

Digital Textile Printing - Environmental and Energy Consideration Eco Efficiency Fingerprints Shown on “Radar “ Diagrams )數位紡織印花 – 環境與能源考量生態效益雷達圖

* TIEPRINT - Technology Transfer of low environmental impact ink jet printing for the production of textile products TIEPRINT LIFE99 ENV/IT/000122 European Funded Project –Italy-GianLuca Brenna

Wastewater reduced to 60%, Thermal Energy savings 80% Electricity usage fell 30%

廢水減少 60%熱能節省 80%電力降低 30%

Data from European Funded Research Project from Research In Italy(Como Region)*資料是由歐洲資助在意大利（科莫地區） * 的研究計畫

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The Majority of quoted benefits are qualitative (estimated) – the two detailed studies briefly illustrated in the presentation, however do show ( as expected ) significant environmental advantages and cost saving 多數引述的效益是定性的（預估） - 兩份詳細的研究已簡要的在報告中說明， 顯示 (如預期地 ) 有顯著的環境優勢和節省成本

The cost saving should also be factored in to the cost equation and purchasing decisions to switch to digital textile printing should include these savings. The Environmental savings will vary significantly fro Country to Country- and also at the individual Factory Level 節省成本的計算應將成本結構及轉換到數位紡織印花購買決策包括在內。在環 保節能會因國與國及在各個工廠技術差異上有所不同

To obtain , actual environmental cost savings using , for example LCA(Life Cycle Analysis) are complicated and would have to be carried for individual factories and Countries 要得到真實所節省的環境成本，例如 LCA （生命週期分析）是相當複雜的必須 依個別工廠及國家來進行

Some Conclusions on Environmental Advantages of Digital Textile Printing-1 數位紡織印花在環保優勢的幾個結論 -1

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Screen printing is more dye, energy and water consuming although digital textile printing needs fabric pre treatment, which in turn requires raw materials and energy and causes environmental impacts 雖然數位紡織印花織物前處理，需要原料和能源，也會對環境影響；但網版印花而 言其使用的染料，能源和水更多

The water consumption at textile printing process (gate-to-gate approach) is much higher for screen printing where the main reason is after washing. 紡織印花流程的用水量（每道製程間）是相當高，主要的原因是網版清洗

When smaller printing batches are studied, digital printing causes less greenhouse gas emissions than screen printing. Digital printing is better for small batches also because of the flexibility of the system and fewer amounts of production waste 小批量印花的研究，數位印花比網版印花友會有較少的溫室氣體排放。數位紡織印花可小 批量生產 , 生產靈活性和及較少量的廢棄物產生優勢

Cotton production (cultivation, fabric production and refinement) causes most of the environmental impacts of digital and screen printed textiles. On a global level, environmental impacts of cotton production need to be

decreased

Some Conclusions on Environmental Advantages of Digital Textile Printing-2 數位紡織印花在環保優勢的幾個結論 -2

DTP- Digital Textile Printing –Future Trends數位紡織印花未來發展趨勢 In overall global textile printing production, digital printing is still relatively small (~3%)- Signage (Flag/banner)

with disperse dye sub inks, Apparel/Fashion with reactive, acid inks and niche segment markets - such as DTG ( Direct to Garment )Digital Textile Printing ) 全球整體紡織印花生產，數位紡織印花還很小（約 3 ％）； 標示（旗幟）是以分散染料轉印墨水；， 服裝 / 服飾與活性，酸性油墨和特殊的細分市場 - 如 DTG （直接到服裝）紡織品數碼印花）

Retailers/Brand owners – are increasingly aware of the shorter production lead times / proximity sourcing and

quick stock replenishment strategies 零售商 / 品牌商 - 越來越意識到縮短生產週期 / 接近採購和快速補貨策略 Factors such as “Environmental/Green issues ” and Energy /water/effluent costs become more important –and

should be factored in to the decision of switching to Digital Textile Printing(DTP) “ 環境 / 綠色議題”以及能源 /水 /廢水的成本等因素變得更加重要 – 面臨到切換到數位紡織印花的抉擇 DTP ） ITMA 2015 in Milan will be an important technology “cross roads” where new digital textile print machines (high

production single pass and high production scanning types” will be introduced increased reliability , increased production speeds, and print performance and more importantly y reducing environmental pollution

ITMA2015 年在米蘭將是一個重要的技術“十字路口”，其中新數位紡織印花機（高量產單次式和掃描類型設備 )“ 將陸續被推出市場具有更高的可靠性，生產速度也提高，並且印花特性，更重要的是減少環境污染

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