a magyar viselet eredete es tortenete

8/8/2019 A Magyar Viselet Eredete Es Tortenete

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A MAGYAR VISELET EREDETES TRTNETE

1. Kalotaszegi pr -Couple

3. Hun fejedelem - HunPrince

4. Testr- Body Guard

6/a. Rimci legny -Palc Man

7. Ormnsg

9. Fr mentben -
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Aristocrat in "Mente"

11/a. IV. Lszl kirly -King Lszl IV

12. Frfi dolmnyban -Gentleman in Doublet

13. Magyar tbornok -Hungarian General

Egy npkultrjnakkzvetlenmegnyilvnulsa,ami a tmegek

letvel szorosansszefgg,sorsukatvgigksri, egyesesemnyekemlkt megzi smegmagyarzzaaz a viseletk. Ami nemzetiviseletnk is hventkrzi a sok

vezredes magyarsorsot, melyidben s trbenoly klnbzhelyeken rt elfontoskorszakokat. Amagyaroksorsval,trtnelmvelegytt halad aviselet is.

Eurzsia magyars rokonfajturni npeinemcsakhadakozshozrtettek, de voltszervezetk,trvnyhozsuk smvszikultrjuk.Vitathatatlan,hogy Kelet fejlettmvszikultrjnakkialaktsban aturni npeknekrszk volt. St Eurpa kultrtrtnetre is

15. Hlgy nemzetiviseletben - Lady in

National Dress

17. Mente

19. Magyar kirlyi pr -Royal Couple
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maradand hatst gyakoroltak. Egyiknevezetes rtk, amelyet Eurpa fldjrehoztak, illetve elterjesztettek, ruhzatukmvszi becs szabsa s dsztse volt. (1.kp: Kalotaszegi legny s leny prtban s

muszulyban. 2. kp: Nemes hlgy s rarannyal gazdagon hmzett ruhban, XVIII.szzad.)

A hun fejedelmeket a fmtrgyakbrzolsaibl ismerjk. ltzkketvizsglva, meglep hasonlsgot tallunk amagyarsg si viseletvel, melyet a XX.szzadig megrztt nlunk a furakdszltzete s a np sokfle viselete.

A szentptervri Ermitzs-gyjtemnybenlthat egy ezsttlon egy IV. vagy V.szzadbeli hun fejedelem lovon l alakja,amint htrafel nyilaz. (3. kp: Hunfejedelem lovasalakja) A krvonalbanmegmutatkoz ruhzata, mely trdgr,vvel leszortott dolmnybl s szknadrgra felhzott csizmbl ll, mind aszabsa, mind egsz formja a mi rgiuraink viselett adja. A sveghomlokboglrja, a mellcsat, az v, a csizmaszle s a lszerszm megmutatjk azoknakaz apr fmvereteknek az alkalmazst,melyek honfoglalskori srjainkban oly nagyszmban tallhatk. A fejedelembajuszviselete is hasonl a magyarokhoz.

Anonymus azt rja a XI. vagy XII. szzadvgn, hogy a rgi haza fldjn sok volt anyuszt, gyhogy nemcsak nemes, hanem agulys, kansz s juhsz is evvel kestruhjt azon a fldn... Megemlti, hogyszvetbl voltak straik, nyusztok s msvadak brvel ruhzkodtak. A honfoglalmagyar ruhzatnak fanyaga is a brlehetett. Ezt letarolva, vagy prmjvel egytthasznltk. Megfigyelhetjk, hogy a maimagyarok ruhzatban is milyen nagyszerepe van a brnek. Ezer vvel ezeltt ismegvolt a kacagny, kdmn, bekecs, suba.

Brbl volt a szk nadrg, a lgytalpcsizma, a prmes sveg s kalpag. Brblvoltak az vek, tarsolyok, nyergek s alovak sallangos szerszmjai. (4. kp: Testrprducbr kacagnyban, dszesen

felszerszmozott lovon, XVIII. szzad. 5.kp: Klnfle magyar bundk, XIX.szzad.) Errl tanskodnak ahonfoglalskori srok, melyekbl nagyszmban kerlnek el gombok (A gombot amagyaroktl vettk t Eurpa npei.),pitykk, boglrok, veretek s kapcsok amaradk brdarabokkal. Teht afmpitykket, boglrokat svegre, vekre,brcsizma szrra, s az ujjas felsruhra istettk, nemcsak dsztsknt, hanem a

fegyverek elleni vdeleml is. Szmos vidkpityks frfimellny-viselete ide vezethetvissza. (6/a kp: Rimci legny pityksmellnyben, Ngrd megye. 6/b kp: XIX.szzadi pityks fi mellny. AmerikaiMagyar Mzeum tulajdona.)

seink ismertk a tmr-, szcs- s varga-mestersget; rtettek a szrposzt (nemez-szvet) s abaposzt ksztshez. Anemezszvetet storfalnak, takarnak,sznyegnek s a ruhzathoz hasznltk.Vszonbl volt az ing s a b, rncos gatya.A nk, keleti szoks szerint, hoszszingflben jrtak, melybl kettt is felvettek.A felst, amit ma ruhnak neveznk,hmzssel dszthettk. A szsz, kender,ors, vszon, gyolcs, szni, varrni szavakmr a honfoglals idejn megvoltaknyelvnkben. Egy rdekes rgi szavunk afehrnp, ami ltalban n-t jelent, s atlnyoman fehr ruhzatukkalmagyarzhat. Nmely vidken, mint azOrmnsgban, a Somogy megyei Csklyfaluban, Gcsejben, Torockn, aBarcasgban (htfalusi csngk) a np ma ismajdnem teljesen fehr gyolcsltzetben jr.(7. kp: Ormnsgi fiatal asszony fehrhzisztt gyolcsban. 8. kp: Gcsejiregasszony fehr viselete.) Nhol eskvre,


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mshol pedig gyszra ltzik hfehrbe amagyar. Ezzel a sok fehr ruhzattal bizonyfontos volt az lland tisztlkods is, amiakkoriban Eurpban mg nem volt szoks.gy rthet, hogy a biznci rok elismerssel

szlnak a magyarok tisztasgrl,szpsgrl s tbori frdikrl. Ezt aztnigyekeznek tlk tvenni. A kabt (khabad)s mente (mandyae) is megtetszett nekik,mert tveszik ltzetkbe - rjk. (9. kp:Fr prmmel dsztett mentben, XIX.szzad. 10. kp: Vrosi polgr prmmeldsztett mentben, XIX. szzad.)

A keresztnysg terjesztsvel nemcsak azsi vallst de a szoksokat is tiltottk. Az si

ruhzat elhagysa s a nyugati ltzkhezval alkalmazkods a vallsvltoztatskvetkeztben terjedt el a felsosztlyokban. A np nem hagyta el a szokottruht s idvel az elkelek is visszatrtekrgi keleti pompaszeretetkhz. Annyiraszerette a magyar a fnyz viseletet, hogyrendeletekkel igyekeztk tiltani a dszesltzkdst egsz trtnelme folyamn.

XI. szzadbeli magyar frfi viselet a pcsiszkesegyhz dombormvein lthat: ktmagyar r gynggyel kivarrt ingben,boglros mentvel s cscsos svegben. Avelencei Szent Mrk-templom egyikmozaikjn nyilas magyar vitz lthathrmas hajfonattal, kdmnben smagasszr csizmban.

A tatrjrs idejn a kun beteleplk viseletenagy hatssal volt a magyarsgra, flegmivel a kirly is abban jrt. A kun kntsfldig rt, derkban testhez simult scsptjban rncoldott. A hegyes, hosszsvegket, melynek felhajl s bevgottkarimja volt a magyar urak is hordtk.(11/a kp: IV. Lszl kirly kunpognyvagyis si viseletben, oldalt csuks, rncosalj kntsben s cscsos svegben,Kpeskrnika 1358. 11/b kp: IV. Lszl

kirly, Undi Mria rajza.) Az itt brzolt IV.Lszl kirlyunk ltzete ersen emlkeztetnhny ma is hasznlt npviseleti darabra.Valszinleg a kun viseletnek nevezettruhzatot mr az smagyarok is hordtk, s

IV. Lszl kirlyunk idejben jravisszatrtek viselshez. Ebben az idbenterjedt el a ni ltzk rgi ingformjrakerl, derktl rncolt, prm- vagyzsinorszeglyes, hossz szoknya.

Az Anjou-korban a magyar ri ltzkannyira tetszett az elkel idegeneknek,hogy tvettk s klfldn is elterjesztettk.(12. kp: Gombos kurtaujj dolmny, hmesingujj, szk nadrg, lent gombbal zrdik,

sar s brkapca, XVII. szzad eleje.) Argi, nemes formj, testhezll dolmny, albra feszl szk nadrg s csizma, a mentes kacagny (prduc-, tigris- vagyfarkasbrbl) a magyar frfiak kedveltruhadarabjai maradtak egszen a XX.szzadig. Prmes sveg boglrjba tzttdaru, kcsag vagy kerecsentoll egsztette kia frfiltzket. (13. kp: Magyar tbornokidszruha. Ds zsinorzs dolmny, prmmelszegett mente, prducbr kacagny,prmsveg kerecsentollas forgval, XVIII.szzad. 14. kp: II. Jzsef gyerekkntmagyar dszruhban, mentben,prmsvegben, XVIII. szzada ruha aMagyar Nemzeti Mzeum tulajdona.)

A ni viseletidtll darabjai: alsing, felsing (felimeg) sokszor rncos, hmzett sgynggyel dsztett ujjakkal, testhezll,hmzssel, gyngygyel, sjtssal dsztettingvll/fzvll, melyet zsinrral fztekegybe, bokig r, ersen rncos szoknya,tbbsoros brsony vagy csipke szegssel,szles, rncolt ktny (elkt), szintncsipke, hmzs, rece dsztssel. (15. kp:Hossz rncolt szoknya, csipkvel dsztettszoros fzvll, csipke ktny, b mente.Minden darab gazdagon zsinrozott. 16.kp: Fri hlgy eskvi ruhja, 1687.) A


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nk is viseltek mentt, subt, sveget, dszesfktt, a lnyok gyngyztt, boglrosvagy pillangs prtt, gyngys virgokblfont koszort, kezkben keszkent. Feltn,hogy ezeket a ruhadarabokat az ri osztly

s a falusi np egyarnt viselte. A klnbsgaz anyag minsgben s a kivitelezsbenmutatkozott csupn.

Mindenkor hangslyt fektettek gy a frfi,mint a ni ruhzat elksztsnl a sznek sdszts sszhangjra. Ezrt is olyan zlsess festi a magyar ri- s npviselet. (17.kp: Esterhzy Lszl mentje, XVII.szzad kzepe. 18. kp: Gazdagon hmzettszoknya s vllfz, Esterhzy Orsolya

ruhatrbl. XVII. szzad kzepe.)Figyelemremlt az is, hogy gy a rgi, mintaz jabbkori brzolsokon a magyarokmindvgig kedveltk a testhezszabottviseletet, mely kihangslyozta karcsderekukat, szp testalkatukat. (19. kp:Magyar kirlyi pr szkely falfestmnyrl,XIII. szzad. 20. kp: Udvarhlgy s nemesicsaldbl szrmaz aprdja, XVI. szzad.)A nemesi ltzetre jellemz a sznekpompja, tiszta fekett csak mly gyszidejn hasznltak.

A magyar nemzeti viselet si s idtllvoltt az is bizonytja, hogy a klnbzpolitikai- vagy divatramlatok hibanyomtk el, vagy szortottk ki tbb zben, amagyarsg jra s jra visszatrt ahhoz aruhzathoz, mely alkatnak s lelkisgneklegjobban megfelelt. Remlhetleg a XX.szzad elszrklt falanszter rendszere semsemmisti meg vgrvnyesen ezt a tbbvezredes rksget.

A MAGYAR NPI VISELET


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21. Zempln,

Szoborszer pr- ProudCouple

23. Cifraszr, Bihar

25. Domborm - Relief,Persepolis

26. Szr, Karcag,szabsminta - Pattern

28. Suba, Decs

30. Kitertett suba - LaidOut Suba

32. Kdmn
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34. Szokmny

36. Frfiingek - Men'sShirts

38. Gatya

40. Fktk s csizmk- Head Dresses and

Boots

A magyarnpviselet igenvltozatos sgazdag,vidkenknt, st

nha falunkntms s ms. Azsi ltzkdsszmos darabjaazonbanmegmaradt s azorszg mindenrszbenmegtallhat. Ezarra utal, hogy ahonfoglals idejn a magyar np ltzete

elgg egysges lehetett. A vidkenknteltr viseletek azonos vonsai a magyar fajalaptulajdonsgaival fggnek ssze. A npkomolysga, mltsgteljes magatartsa,rsa, a ruhaformk zrt, nyugalmas

krvonalait kveteli. A npi ruht pontosanszablyok szerint kell felvenni, smindenkinl egyformn kell lljon a testenszoros, feszes elrendezsben. Elcsszs,lazasg nagy illetlensgnek szmt. Ezt UndiMria gy fogalmazza meg: "A minpviseletnk inkbb szablyos, nmileg tnmerev is, mintha egyenruha lenne. A dszbeltztt paraszt szp szobornak tudja magt,azrt ruhja csorbtatlan rendjre gondosangyel. Fests, fnykpezs kzben vilgrtsem hajlana s csak a szoborszerhelyzetben akarja magt ltni.Npviseletnk gy azutn nem is annyirafesti, mint inkbb konstruktv, azazptszeti szpsg; amit festinek ltunkbenne, az valjban csak a sznek ragyogsas harmnija. A npi ruha ptszetielgondols zrt formakr, mely npnkkatons megjelenshez gy illik s mind atest, mind a lelki vilgt gy juttatjarvnyre. nrzetes bszke mivoltt,dalissgt pedig mg jobban alhzzahatrtalan pompaszeretete, amely miatt anp anyagi erejn fell klt ruhjra s a

42. Mennyassony -Bride, Kalotaszeg
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sznek, anyagok s az arany-ezstcsillogsrt sok mindenrl lemond. sikeleti rksge ez a magyarnak, melyet azelmlt ezerszz vben sem a nemessg, sema falusi np nem volt kpes msra elcserlni.

Elnyoms, szegnysg, divat, politika,idegen krnyezet nem volt kpes situlajdonsgait megsemmisteni. (21. kp:Fiatal pr, Vajdcska, Zempln megye. 22.kp: Fiatal pr, frfi ezstpityks, zsinrsmentben, Szolnok, Szolnok megye.)

Az egyes vidkek npviselete vltozott azvszzadok folyamn, de a legsibb magyarruhadarabokat mindenki viselte a Duna-medencben. A beteleptett szsz, flamand,

kun s svb fajok, a beszivrg romnok sszlvok mind a magyar viseletformkbaltztek. gy tnik, hogy a Duna mentnittlte ta a npviseletre a magyarsg szabotttrvnyt, semmint hogy mstl kapott volnaalapvet tleteket. A magyar viselet shmzs keleti emlkei ma is hdtanak akrnyez npek krben, akik meg vannakrla gyzdve, hogy az sajtjuk.

Egyes vidkek viseletnek lersa helyett ittnhny si, a magyarsg krben kedvelt,ruhadarab kerl bemutatsra.

A magyar np egyik legsibb ruhadarabja aSZR. (23. kp: Cifraszr, Bihar. 24. kp:Hortobgyi csiks cifraszrben.) zsiaieredet s tbbezerves mltja van. Egytbb mint 1500 ves perzsa kreliefen islthat. Vllravetve viseli tulajdonosa,akrcsak a magyar frfiak. (25. kp: Egymd frfi szrben. Perzsa brzols egykreliefen, Persepolis.) Szent Istvntrvnyei is megemltik a gyapjszvket,illetve szrtakcsokat. A magyar parasztilletve psztor legfontosabb ruhadarabja:felltje, vdelme a nap, szl s hideg ellen,jszaka prnja s takarja. Ez dszruhja is,templomba, eskvre csak szrben illetmenni. Az egsz Krpt-medencben

viseltk.

Szabsa 12 egyenes tglalap alak darabblll. Anyaga birkaszrbl (rackajuh) vertsrgsfehr szrposzt vagy abaposzt. A

szkelyek aba-kpenyegnek nevezik.ltalban hmzssel, piros vagy feketertttel dsztik. A rttes mintk Bels-zsira utalnak. (26. kp: Gallros szrszabsa elrl s htulrl, Karcag,Nagykunsg. 27. kp: Szr szabsmintja.Kisjszlls, Szolnok megye, XX. szzadeleje.)

A fldig r SUBA szintn si, zsiaieredet ruhadarab. (28. kp: Frfi, hmzett

templombajr subban, Decs, Tolnamegye. 29. kp: Bogyiszli frfiak subban.)A British mzeumban rgi ephtalitarmeken ugyanolyan subk lthatk mint amagyarok. Nlunk frfiak s kisebbmrett nk is hordanak, gyszintnnemzetisgeink krben is elterjedt. Magyarfalusi gazdaember nem lehet suba nlkl.Brmilyen drga, a hzasuland legnynekbe kell szereznie. Egsz letben bszknviseli a tekintly e jelkpt. Tlen a szrvelbefel fordtott suba a kocsinl embertfagy, h ellen vdi, melegben jkocsilsnek. Nyron kifordtva hvsentart. Psztorok kunyh, takar s prnakntis hasznljk.

A subt kizrlag magyar szcsk ksztik,melynek szabsa s sszelltsakrlmnyes. Alakja kitertve krformj, 7-12 birka brbl kszl, a gallrja is egytermszetes llatbrbl van. A szcskhagyomnyos, gynyr hmzssel dsztik asubt. (30. kp: Frfi-suba kitertett vzlata.Fels kp: ugyane suba vllhmzse, Gyula,Bks megye. 31. kp: Kecskemti irhssuba szabsa, alatta fekete birkabrgallr.)

A KDMN is keleti rksgnk. (32. kp:Frfi kdmn hta. A felletet piros s zld


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br rtt tagolja, a kertett mezket hmzstlti ki. 33. kp: Ni kdmon hta. Dsztseirhartt s hmzs. Cignd, Zemplnmegye.) Egsz zsiban viselik. A rackajuh,nha kecske szrms brbl ksztik.

Magyarorszg egsz terletn minden rends rang n s frfi hasznlta ezt a gazdagonhmzssel vagy rtttel dsztett ujjas kabtflt. Klmn kirly trvnyileg tiltotta mega papoknak a dszes kdmn viselst. Dehiba, mert a papok sem tudtak lemondaniszp rksgkrl. Az vszzadok folyamnmg tbbszr is meg kellett nekik tiltani akdmn viselst. Mtys kirly 8000darabot csinltatott serege szmra. Vgvrikatonk menteknt hasznltk. A

kznpnek, fleg az asszonyoknak kedveltviselete mind a mai napig.

A SZOKMNY vastag szrke, barna vagyfekete posztbl kszlt zsinros kabt.Szintn zsiai eredet s ma is hasznljkmindentt. Eurpban valsznleg amagyarok terjesztettk el. Nlunk flegErdlyben panykra vetve, vagy ujjbabjva viselik. (34. kp: Szkely szokmny.35. kp: Szokmny kitertve. Szk, Szolnok-Doboka megye, 1914.)

Az ING s GATYA si viselett is Keletrlhozta magval a magyarsg. Egyenestglalap alak vszondarabokbl kszltek.A derkban ersen rncolt gatyatermszetesen tbb szlbl van. Akalotaszegi frfi ing mg ma is ilyenegyenes szabs: eleje, hta s ujjai egy-egyngyszg alak lapbl kszl. A honfoglalskorban b, hossz fels inget (imeg,felimeg, mg, fersing, pendely, bikla)vvel a derkhoz szortva viselhettek a nk.Erre kerlt a XIII. szzadban a rncosszoknya. (36. kp: Egyenes szabs frfiingek, Trkny, Bihar, Kalotaszeg s Szk,Erdly. 37. kp: Mell varrott s bevarrottujj ni ingek, Palcfld, Bihar sKalotaszeg. 38. kp: A bgatya szabsa. 39.

kp: bgatya /Csongrd/ s vszonnadrg/Szatmr/ szabsa.)

A npi viselet fontos kiegszti a ktny,fejdszek, lbbeli (csizma, cip, papucs) s

kszerek. (40. kp: Palc fktk scsizmk.)

Npnk si s egyben legszebb viselettKalotaszeg magyar npe rizte meg. ErrlKs Kroly gy r 1932-ben Kalotaszeg cmknyvben:

Kalotaszeg npnek egszen eredetiszabs, formj s anyag frfi, asszony sgyermek ruhaviselete csudaszmba men

mdon tartotta meg mai napig teljesgazdagsgban si formjt, mellyelmsflezeresztendvel ezeltt vndortjramegindult... ez a viselet szabsban,konstrukcijban, s pedig gy vonalbeli,mint sznbeli kompozcijban semmifleeurpai - st ma mr taln zsiai - npruhaszabshoz nem hasonlatos... Akalotaszegi npviselet egyes, lnyegesdarabjaiban, s taln szszessgben,amennyire azt ma ellenrizni lehet,megegyezik kzpzsiai lovas nomd npekegykor viseletvel... A dloroszorszgi u.n.szittya-kszobrok szrje s prge kalapja amai szr s prge kalap msa. s szrt nemvisel, - a magyaron kvl, - a vilg egyetlennpe sem. A hegyes orr, puhaszr csizmaminden idk zsiai lovas npnek lbbelijevolt, de kzptengeri npek sohasemviseltk. ppen gy a nyri frfiviselet bvszon gatyjt s kurta ingt sem. Akalotaszegi ni viselet legjellemzbbdarabjt, a muszujt, vagy bagazit pedig avilgon ezenkvl csupn az Uralhegyekegyik trk-fajta npnek asszonyai viseltknemrgen mg. A kalotaszegi magyarsggazdag npi ruhatrnak egyetlen darabjt,egyetlen dszt formjt sem vette t az tkzvetlenl krnyez, vagy vele kevertenegyttlak s sok szz esztend ta


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llandan rintkez romnnptl, illetleg akzje teleptett flandriai parasztoktl.Viszont az npviseletnek tbb darabjt,talaktva, tvettk a kztte s krltte lromnok. A flandriaiak,

elmagyarosodsukkal prhuzamosantvettk a kalotaszegi magyar viseletet is, amagukt egszen elhagytk. Szintebizonyos, hogy a mai kalotaszegi magyarnpviselet egykor egsz Erdly, st talnMagyarorszg magyarsgnak is viseletevolt. (41. kp: Kalotaszegi frfi hmzettbrmellnyben, egyenes szabs ingben sgatyban. 42. kp: Kalotaszegimennyasszony dulndl-val a fejn, fehrhmzett ingben, fehr rncos szoknyban,

hmzett brmellesben s dszes ktnyben.)Hlval tartozunk Kalotaszeg magyarnpnek, hogy ragaszkodik egyedlllviseletk si hagyomnyaihoz, s megrzttszmunkra valamit a magyar rgmltszpsgbl.

Kerkay Emese

ORIGIN AND HISTORY OF THE

HUNGARIAN DRESS

2. Nemesek - NobleLady & Gentleman

5. Bundk - Fur coats
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6/b. Pityks fi mellny

- Boy's Vest

8. Gcsej: regasszony- Old Woman

10. Polgr mentben -Burgher in "Mente"

11/b. IV. Lszl -rajz/drawing
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14. II. Jzsef - Emperor

Joseph II

16. Mennyasszony -Bride

18. Hmzett ruha -Embroidered Dress

The culture andhistory of a nationcan be deducedthrough itsnational and folk

attire. TheHungariannational costumetruly reflects thenation's history ofthousands ofyears.

The Turanianpeople - Hungarians included - of Eurasiawere not only skilled warriors, but were well

organized, had a legal system and advancedartistic culture. Not only did they influencethe development of Asian culture but theEuropean as well. One of the most importantand valuable contributions to Europe'sculture was their fashion and style,combined with decorative arts they brought.(Fig. 1: Kalotaszeg/Transylvania Couple.The girl is wearing a beaded headdress/prta/ and turned up skirt. Fig. 2: Noblelady and gentleman. Their dresses are richlyembroidered in gold. 18th century.)

The Hun princes, who played a great role inhistory, are recognized from metal reliefs.On these we can observe, that their clothingshow an astonishing resemblance to theancient Hungarian attire, which was partlypreserved up to the 20. century in thecostumes of the nobility and the peasants.

In the Hermitage at St. Petersburg the figureof a 4th century Hunnish prince can be seenon a silver plate, riding a horse shootingarrows backwards. (Fig. 3: A Hun prince onhorseback.) His attire looks exactly like theone Hungarian noblemen wore later on -fashion, cut and small details included. Hisknee-long doublet (dolmny), fastened witha belt, is the same as are the tight fitting

20. Udvarhlgyaprddal - Lady and

Page
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trousers and high boots. The clasp on hishat, the brooch, the belt, the edge of hisboots and the harness show how those smallmetal pieces found in great abundance in1100 year old Hungarian graves were used.

Even his mustache looks like the oneHungarian men still favorize.

In the 11th or 12th century Anonymusmentions in his chronicle that in the "oldcountry" there was such an abundance ofmartens, that not only noblemen, but evenshepherds, cow- and swineherds decoratedtheir clothing with fur. The ancientHungarians dressed mainly in leather. Theirtrousers, boots, coats, fur hats, caps, belts,

sabre-taches, saddles and the tasseledharnesses were all made of leather. (Fig. 4:Body guard with leopard skin cape. 18thcentury. Fig. 5: Various kinds of Hungarianfur coats, 19th century.) Buttons, clasps,rosettes, coins and buckle trimmings werefound together with leather remnants ingraves from the 9th to 11th centuries, thetime when the last wave of Hungariansarrived in the Carpathian Basin. In variousregions, men are still wearing vests richlydecorated with metal buttons. - TheHungarians introduced the button in Europe.- (Fig. 6/a: Man in vest decorated with metalbuttons, Ngrd county. Fig. 6/b: Boysvest, 19th century. Property of AmericanHungarian Museum.) It has to be mentionedthat the Hungarians still like to wear leatherand fur. The kaczagny (wild animal skinthrown loosely over the shoulder), thekdmn, bekecs and suba (made ofsheepskin) were used for the past elevencenturies.

Our ancestors knew the art of tanning andbootmaking, had skilled furriers andsaddlers. They knew how to make felt orszr-cloth, which they used for their tents,blankets, carpets and clothing. They wovelinen for their underwear and lighter

clothing like shirts, trousers (gatya). Thewomen wore two ankle long chemisesfastened with a belt, the top one beingdecorated with embroidery. The women inHungary are called fehrnp (white people)

because they dressed in white linens. Eventoday there are regions where the folkcostumes are completely white: Ormnsg,Cskly, Barcasg, Torock, Gcsej. (Fig.7: Woman of Ormnsg, dressed in whitehomespun linnen. Fig. 8: Old womanswhite dress from Gcsej.) In some regionsthey dress in white for weddings, in othersfor funerals. They carried bathtubs even tocamp to keep themselves and all their whiteclothing clean. This was mentioned by

Byzantine and German chroniclers as apeculiarity. The Byzantines also liked andadopted the Hungarian "kabt" coat(khabad) and "mente" (mandyae). (Fig. 9:Aristocrat in red velvet "mente" decoratedwith fur and gold passementerie, early 19thcentury. Fig. 10: A burgher in a furdecorated "mente", 19th century.)

When Christianity was introduced inHungary, ancient religion and customs wereforbidden and persecuted. Therefore forsome time the beautiful and rich clothingbrought from the East, was abandoned bythe nobility, but never by the peasants. Aftera while, the upper classes returned towearing the traditional attire, which was stillvery close to their heart and soul. In the 11thcentury, as can be seen on a stone relief inthe Cathedral of Pcs, Hungarian gentlemenwore shirts embroidered with beads, a coatthrown over the shoulder (mente) withclasps, peaked caps, embroidered leather orfur jackets (kdmn), and high boots.During the last thousand years, severaldecrees were issued, which prohibited thewearing of those extraordinarily expensiveclothes, dear to all the people.

In the 13th century, after the Mongol


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invasion, Cumanians settled in Hungary.Their vestments had a great influence onHungarians, mainly because King Lszl IV(1272-1290) wore them also. (Fig. 11/a:King Lszl IV dressed in Cumanian

vestment. Miniature from the"Kpeskrnika", 1358. Fig. 11/b: KingLszl, a drawing by Mria Undi.) Thetypical Cumanian - and most probably oldHungarian - garment reached to the ground,was tightly fitted around the waist, andgathered at the hips. Some folk costumesstill resemble this outfit. Women started towear the heavily pleated skirts in this period.

During the Anjou-era in the 14th century

distinguished foreigners were attracted tothe Hungarian court. They took such a fancyto the Hungarian attire, that they not onlywore it, but made it also fashionable abroad.

In the past thousand years the typicalHungarian men's attire consisted of thedolmny (doublet, a tight fitting jacket),(Fig. 12: Short sleeved doublet, showingembroidered shirt sleeves, tight trousers,buttoned on the bottom. Early 17thcentury.), tight trousers resemblingstockings, boots, mente (mantle), kaczagny(the skin of a tiger, panther or wolf), fur capdecorated with a rosette and a bird feather.(Fig. 13: Gala dress of a Hungarian general:dolmny, mente, kaczagny, metal belt,early 18th century. Fig. 14: Emperor JosephII (1780-1790) as a child in a HungarianGala Dress.)

In the past millennium the lasting pieces ofwomen's clothing were: under and over-shirtwith pleated sleeves (embroidered ordecorated with beads), a tight-fitting,heavily decorated vest, long pleated skirtwith lace or velvet borders, an apron alsodecorated with lace or embroidery. (Fig. 15:Ladys attire of 1861, consisting of crinolineskirt, laced bodice, lace pinafore and a wide

mantle, all richly decorated with braiding.Fig. 16: Noble ladys wedding dress, 1687.)The women also wore the mente, fur coatsand hats, richly decorated headdresses. Girlsdidn't cover their hair but wore a prta, a

beautiful crown-like headdress. It isinteresting, that these garments were wornby the upper and lower classes alike. Thedifference was only noticeable in the qualityof the fabric and execution.

Much attention was paid to the harmony ofcolor and decoration. This is the reason whyfolk costumes and the clothing of the upperclasses alike are so picturesque and tasteful.(Fig. 17: Esterhzy Lszls mente, 17th

century. Fig. 18: Esterhzy Orsolyas richlyembroidered dress, 17th century.)

On pictures of all ages we can distinctlynotice, that Hungarians liked tight-fittinggarments, which emphasized their slenderbuild and small waist. (Fig. 19: Hungarianroyal couple from a Szkely mural painting.13th century. Fig. 20: A lady-in-waiting andher page from a noble family, 16th century.The attire of the upper classes was verycolorful. Black was only used in deepmourning.


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HUNGARIAN FOLK ATTIRE

22. Bszke pr - ProudCouple, Szolnok

24. Szr- Hortobgy

27. Szr szabsminta -Pattern

29. Suba - Bogyiszl

31. Suba szabsmintja- Pattern

33. Kdmn

35. Szokmny rajza -Pattern
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The Hungarianfolk costumeshows a greatdiversity andchanges from

region to region,even village tovillage. However,many pieces ofthe ancient attireare still used inevery part ofhistoricalHungary. Thiscommon trait canbe attributed to

the basic characterof the Hungarianrace. Undi Mriawrites: "Theirseriousness anddignified bearingdemands a close-fitting,unobtrusive form.The peasant dresshas therefore to beworn the sameway by everyoneaccording to rules. It has to be put on tightlyand straight. If the attire slips or is loose orbaggy, it is regarded as a great indecency.Individual ideas, picturesque looseness, oringenious caprice, which make the dressesof the Latin people so charming, are entirelyunknown and unacceptable among thecostumes of the Hungarian people.Therefore the peasant dresses are neat, evenstiff, like a uniform. A peasant dressed in hisbest clothes thinks himself to be a beautifulstatue, and takes great care to be dressedtidy and correctly. If painted orphotographed, he would not bend or move;he likes to see himself statuesque and stiff.Consequently our peasant attire isconstructively designed and is

37. Ni ingek-

Women's Shirts

39. Gatya

41. Frfi - Man,Kalotaszeg

architecturally beautiful. It is picturesquebecause of brightness, harmony of color anddecoration. This architectural design suitsexactly the soldierly appearance of the folk,and entirely expresses their psychological

and physical world. Their self-consciousnessand pride is emphasized by their love ofpomp. The people spend more on theirclothes than they can afford." (Fig. 21:Young couple, Vajdcska, Zempln county.Fig. 22: Young couple, groom in braidedmente" with silver buttons, Szolnok,Szolnok county.)

This peculiar trait of the Hungarians is atradition brought from the East and nothing

could change this in the past thousand years.Oppression, poverty, fashion, politicaltrends, alien surroundings were not able toalter this ancient characteristic of the people.

The Hungarian folk costumes of thedifferent regions changed over the centuries.However there were some garments whichwere worn throughout the Carpathian-basin.It seems that Hungarians dictated the trendin folk attire to the other ethnic inhabitantsin this geographical area. Instead ofdescribing the different regional folkcostumes, some of the favorite pieces, wornby everybody, will here be presented.

The SZR is an ancient type coat withorigins in Asia. (Fig. 23: Richlyembroidered Szr, Bihar. Fig. 24: Horse-herd in embroidered Szr from Hortobgy,Great Plain.) It can be seen on a Persianrelief of nearly 2000 years. Its owner wearsthe szr thrown over the shoulder the sameway Hungarian men do. (Fig. 25: The Szron a Persian stone relief, Persepolis.) KingSt. Stephen (997-1038) already mentions inhis laws the wool-weavers who made thefelt for the szr. It is the most importantpiece of clothing of the Hungarian peasantand shepherd. The szr served as coat,
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protection against the sun, wind and cold, atnight it was his pillow and cover. It was alsohis Sunday best worn to church andweddings.

The design of the szr is simple, consistingof 12 straight cut felt pieces. The naturalcolored felt is woven of sheep's wool (rackasheep). It is lavishly decorated withembroidery and felt-applique, a design andtechnique with roots in Inner-Asia. (Fig. 26:The front andback of a Szr pattern,Karcag. Fig. 27: Pattern of a szr,Kisjszlls, Great Plain, early 20thcentury.)

The SUBA is as old as the szr and also ofAsian origin, as can be seen on old Ephtalitemedals in the British Museum. They lookthe same as those worn today by men andwomen in Hungary. (Fig. 28: Suba fromDecs, Tolna county. Fig. 29: Men fromBogyiszl wearing a Suba.) No matter howexpensive a suba is, a young man must getone when he marries. He will wear itproudly for the rest of his life. The subaprotects his owner against cold, frost, snow,and the heat of the sun. Shepherds use it as ashelter or blanket.

The suba has a complicated cut and is madeexclusively by Hungarian furriers. Whenlaid out it is round in shape, and requires upto 12 sheepskins. The ornamentation of thesuba consists of exquisitely embroideredstylized flower-groups, which are inharmony with the shape and flow of thisextraordinary garment. (Fig. 30: A laid outSuba, Gyula, Bks county. Top: Shoulderembroidery of the same Suba. Fig. 31:Pattern of a Suba from Kecskemt, GreatPlain.)

The KDMN also has its roots in Asia,where it is still widely worn. (Fig. 32: Backof a mans Kdmn decorated with applique

and embroidery, Pszt, Heves county. Fig.33: Back of a womans Kdmn withapplique and embroidery decoration,Cignd, Zempln county.) It is a coat madeof the skin of the Hungarian racka-sheep.

The kdmn richly decorated withembroidery and leather applique was and isfavored by men and women alike in everypart of Hungary. King Klmn (1100-1116)prohibited by law that priest wear theextremely fancy kdmn, yet King Mtys(1458-1490) ordered 8000 pieces for hisarmy. During and after the Turkishoccupation, soldiers used them as a mente,thrown over their shoulders.

The SZOKMNY is an ancient, tightlyfitting short coat of the peasant attire. It ismade of rough, home-woven frieze or szr-felt, dyed brown, gray or black. Mostprobably the Hungarians introduced thisgarment in Europe. Today it is mainly wornin Transylvania. (Fig. 34: TransylvanianSzkely Szokmny. Fig. 35: Pattern of aSzokmny, Szk, Transylvania, 1914.)

Beside the above-mentioned overcoats, theHungarians also brought into Europe theSHIRT and GATYA (pleated linentrousers). The men's, and womens shirtswere made of straight cut linen pieces. Thegatya is heavily pleated at the waist andfavored by the Hungarian peasanteverywhere, especially in summer.

At the time of the conquest the women worelong under and upper shirts fastened with abelt. The pleated skirt was added in the 13thcentury. Today a peasant woman's attireconsists of, a shirt, several petticoats,pleated skirt, embroidered vest, apron andlarge kerchief, belt, headdress, footwear(boots, shoes, slippers), handkerchief andewelry.

(Fig. 36: Strait cut mens shirts from


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Trkny, Bihar, Kalotaszeg and Szk,Transylvania. Fig. 37: Patterns of widesleeved shirts, Palc region, Bihar,Kalotaszeg. Fig. 38: Pattern of the gatya.Fig. 39: The patterns of a gatya, Csongrd

and linen pants from Szatmr. Fig. 40:Bonnets and boots from the Palc region.)

The Hungarian people of Kalotaszeg,Transylvania, preserved the most beautifuland ancient type folk costume. 1000 yearsago it was used not only in Transylvania butalso probably everywhere in Hungary. It isthe attire of an ancient horsemen culture.Even the skirts (muszuly) of the womenwere designed for riding. The costume is

unique in cut, construction, line and colorcomposition, and cannot be compared to anyother European clothing. Over the centuriesall influence for change was rejected. Wecan be thankful to the people of Kalotaszegwho preserved a piece of the Hungarian pastof long ago. (Fig. 41: Mens traditional folkcostume from Kalotaszeg, Transylvania.Fig. 42: A bride from Kalotaszeg.)

Emese Kerkay

Used literature/Forrs:
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Undi Mria, Hungarian Fancy Needlework and Weaving (Magyarhmvarr mvszet), Budapest

Pictures:

Undi Mria, Hungarian Fancy Needlework and Weaving, BudapestCzak Elemr, ed., A magyarsg trgyi nprajza, I.-II. Budapest

Hoffer-Fl, Magyar Npmvszet, Budapest, 1994

A szerz fnykpei s levelezlapok / Photographs by the author and postcards

Kdmn disztmny

a magyar viselet eredete es tortenete

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