aguja nevada i, pirányide and other peaks above the...

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Aguja Nevada I, Pirányide and Other Peaks Above the Quebrada Parón. We were thirteen: Kazimierz Malczyk, leader, Michal Chwistek, Michał Kulig, Andrzej Olszewski, Ryszard Pawłowski, Adam Pietras, Maciej Stobierski, Jerzy Wewióra, Stanisław Wyleżałek, Roman Trzes- zewski, Tomasz Swiatkowski, Ryszard Warecki and I. Our Base Camp was on Parón Lake. We climbed in small groups. An attempt on the north ridge on Huandoy Oeste failed at 19,125 feet because of climbing difficulties and insufficient acclimatization. On August 22 Wewióra and Stobierski climbed Aguja Nevada Chica (18,242 feet) from its east saddle and Olszewski and Warecki by the south spur. On August 23 Kulig, Pawłowski and I ascended Huandoy Este via the right part of the east face and by the long north ridge. We bivouacked on the descent. Pisco Oeste was climbed by Kulig and Pawłowski on August 25 and by Chwistek, Malczyk, Wewióra and Stobierski on September 6. On August 28 Kulig, Pawiłowski and I after a nine-hour climb from camp at 15,750 feet reached the summit of Aguja Nevada I (19,160 feet) by a new route on the south spur, starting from Parón Lake and crossing Agujita, climbed by Poles in 1973. We climbed the summit pyramid directly in the pro- longation of the spur. We bivouacked on the descent. It took three days for Kulig and Pawlowski to climb the west ridge of Pirámide (19,308 feet), a new route directly from Parón Lake. The last part of the ridge was extremely difficult and risky because of overhanging snow mushrooms. The summit was reached late on the evening of September 8. The descent was down the northeast face with two bivouacs and in very bad weather. A dam Z yzak , Klub Wysokogórski, Katowice, Poland

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Page 1: Aguja Nevada I, Pirányide and Other Peaks Above the ...aac-publications.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/aaj/1979/PDF/AAJ_1979... · Michał Kulig, Andrzej Olszewski, Ryszard Pawłowski,

Aguja Nevada I, Pirányide and Other Peaks Above the Quebrada Parón. We were thirteen: Kazimierz Malczyk, leader, Michal Chwistek, Michał Kulig, Andrzej Olszewski, Ryszard Pawłowski, Adam Pietras, Maciej Stobierski, Jerzy Wewióra, Stanisław Wyleżał ek, Roman Trzes- zewski, Tomasz Swiatkowski, Ryszard Warecki and I. Our Base Camp was on Parón Lake. We climbed in small groups. An attempt on the north ridge on Huandoy Oeste failed at 19,125 feet because of climbing difficulties and insufficient acclimatization. On August 22 Wewióra and Stobierski climbed Aguja Nevada Chica (18,242 feet) from its east saddle and Olszewski and Warecki by the south spur. On August 23 Kulig, Pawłowski and I ascended Huandoy Este via the right part of the east face and by the long north ridge. We bivouacked on the descent. Pisco Oeste was climbed by Kulig and Pawłowski on August 25 and by Chwistek, Malczyk, Wewióra and Stobierski on September 6. On August 28 Kulig, Pawiłowski and I after a nine-hour climb from camp at 15,750 feet reached the summit of Aguja Nevada I (19,160 feet) by a new route on the south spur, starting from Parón Lake and crossing Agujita, climbed by Poles in 1973. We climbed the summit pyramid directly in the pro­longation of the spur. We bivouacked on the descent. It took three days for Kulig and Pawlowski to climb the west ridge of Pirámide (19,308 feet), a new route directly from Parón Lake. The last part of the ridge was extremely difficult and risky because of overhanging snow mushrooms. The summit was reached late on the evening of September 8. The descent was down the northeast face with two bivouacs and in very bad weather.

A d a m Z y z a k , Klub Wysokogórski, Katowice, Poland