diet is a chimera - cook inc. · 2020. 4. 24. · diet, noun. [from lat. diaeta, gr. δίαιτα]...
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Diet is a chimera
NUMBER 26March 2020
MACARENA DE CASTRO
CESAR COSTA
VICHY CHENG
GÍSLI MATTHÍAS AUÐUNSSON
ALBERTO GIPPONI
JEFFERSON E JANAÍNA RUEDA
L’IDENTITÀ NELL’EPOCA DELLA SUA RIPRODUCIBILITÀ GASTRONOMICA
RASMUS MUNK
BERNARD PACAUD
GARIMA ARORA
IVAN E SERGEY BEREZUTSKIY
GUIDO BERLUCCHI
MEREDITH ERICKSON
OFFICINA DIDATTICA CON ALMA
Diet, noun. [from lat. diaeta, gr. δίαιτα] «a way of
life». Variable, varied and more or less balanced
... everyone follows a diet. For Cook_inc. 26 our
writers, photographers and illustrators travel the
world, delineating a chameleon-like path following
some of the most identifiable and significant ga-
stronomic lifestyles of the new Roaring Twenties.
We travel with just one imperative: never-mind
the diet!
Spontaneous, free, immediate and frank the cuisi-
ne of Macarena de Castro (this issue’s cover star
pictured barefoot on the tractor with her faithful
Pedro) is ‘pure Mallorca’. Let’s start the journey
here, walking in her garden. Then from this sun-
ny, bright Spanish island we bounce to another,
arriving in chilly Iceland, wild and volcanic. It’s
here we seek to deepen our understanding of
the seasonal foods served at Slippurinn. Chef
Gísli Matthías Auðunsson’s restaurant is based
on endangered local food traditions from fishing
to foraging that has seen the local community
coalesce around its ambitions, helping create a
thriving business that feeds an Icelander’s nostal-
gic palate.
Next, we head south landing on a new continent
for two thrilling stories out of São Paulo. A Casa
do Porco, Jefferson and Janaína Rueda restau-
rant, has helped revitalized the historic centre
of the Brazilian capital with its focus on amazing
ingredients and creating a fun, easy going eating
space based on pork meat.
While at Corrutela, the concept of a youthful Ce-
sar Costa, you’ll find a menu based on sustaina-
bility and demonstrating a minimal environmen-
tal impact philosophy. Costa is creating a zero
waste destination and out of his kitchen comes
an honest, delicious series of dishes where sea-
sonal vegetables predominate.
Pursuing the veggie theme we fly to Asia, to Ban-
gkok, where we find Garima Arora cooking at Gaa
and offering her singular and surprising interpre-
tation of Indian and Thai flavors. We then conti-
nue a little further east, to Hong Kong, where we
follow the ‘VEA way’ of the dynamic Vicky Cheng
who amazes us with his rendering of Chinese
cuisine. His cooking is a dialogue between his
personal experiences and emblematic ingredients
of the Hong Kong culinary tradition.
Next, we completely change the scenography for
Paris and the luxurious L’Ambroisie, the undi-
sputed temple of an immortal cuisine, to meet
Bernard Pacaud, the thoughtful Highlander with a
heart of butter that promotes cuisine de civilité.
Then we head to the Alchemist in Copenhagen
for a full immersion across five acts and 50
impressions in the new cathedral to molecular
cuisine 2.0. This enterprise is led by chef Rasmus
Munk. Then we go to Moscow and the farm-
to-table realm of Twins Garden led by two of
Russia’s most innovative chefs, the brothers Ivan
and Sergey Berezutskiy.
In Italy we immerse body and mind in the ki-
tchen of thoughts, dreams and mad neurons of
Alberto Gipponi at Dina restaurant in Gussago.
Next while staying in Brescia, we head for Franco
Ziliani’s Franciacorta early dream that now has
becomea global success story for the sparkling
wine. In Milan we chat with Canadian writer Me-
redith Erickson author of Alpine Cooking, a book
full of recipes and stories gathered during her
journeys into mountain culinary traditions.
And what else do we look for in the food we
seek? Writer Serena Guidobaldi leads us to reflect
on identity in the era of its gastronomic reprodu-
cibility, while Officina Didattica at Alma offers us
a modern interpretation of the classic Abruzzese
Virtù, along with dietary tips and technical tricks.
info@cookinc.it+39 0583 357002
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