invest northern ireland | technical textiles seminar | 30 september 2016

Technical Textiles

Workshop

30 September 2016

Technical Textiiles

www.investni.com

Richard Pelan Invest Northern Ireland

Welcome

• Housekeeping

• Todays Agenda

Technical Textiles www.investni.com

Agenda

• 9.30 Welcome - Richard Pelan INI• 9:40 Innovate to Succeed – Andrew Millar, EEN• 10:00 UK Report – Brian McCarthy, KTN • 10:20 Fire Testing for Textiles – Michael Thompson,

Resonate Testing• 10:40 Bespoke Fabrics – Joan Johnston• 11:20 Hollings at MMU – Barbara Shepherd, MMU • 12:05 Close• 12:10 Networking Lunch• 13:00 Meeting of Collaborative Network

Technical Textiles www.investni.com

R&D support

• Innovate UK £15m Manufacturing and Materials call is opening again at the end of the year

• We aim to have an event to promote it in NI around 5th Dec

• Thanks to all who responded to the H2020 call

• Provide product definition support for full proposal preparation

• Provide impartial feedback on applications to other funders

Technical Textileswww.investni.com

Project Definition

• Up to £15k grant, up to 50% to apply for specific competition

• Guide - 5-10% of estimated main project costs

• Internal staff time

• Consultancy

• Travel & Accommodation

• Intellectual Property, preparation of collaborative agreements

Technical Textileswww.investni.com

What Next?

• We have another event planned for 25th Nov, here in INI

• Hope to have UKFT and UoM

• Developing textile presence on our website

• Best of times, Worst of times, but exciting times with shared challenges

Technical Textileswww.investni.com

Thank you

Richard Pelan

Innovation Adviser

Engineering, Construction and Transportation

T: 02890698632

M: 07780002603

E: richard.pelan@investni.com

Technical Textileswww.investni.com

•Enterprise Europe NetworkOverview Andrew Millar

The world’s largest

support Network for SMEs

with international

ambitions

3000 600+LOCATIONSLOCAL

EXPERTS

60+COUNTRIES

WORLDWIDE

Based locally

and connected to the world

• The Enterprise Europe Network in England N. Ireland & Wales

Funded jointly by the European Commission’s Executive Agency for SMEs (EASME) through COSME and H2020 and Innovate UK (previously the TSB).

• Hosted in N.Ireland by Invest NI

21 Consortia Partners in UK including Universities, Chambers of Commerce, Government and Local Government Agencies and private innovation companies

€75m project over 7 years to 2022 designed to stimulate innovation in SMEs

EEN in the UK

EEN in the UK

• Help businesses innovate through internationalcollaboration, be more entrepreneurial and competitive

• Help bring ideas to commercialisation

• Inspire internationalisation

• Help business access funding for R&D (H2020 and UK) and access to finance

• Innovation management advice & support

• Act as an agent to help the EU implement its SME and Business Strategies

Our key aims

How do we help?

We combine international business

expertise with local knowledge to take your

innovation into new markets.

A broad range of services for growth-oriented SMEs

ADVISORY

SUPPORT

Access to finance

Access to funding

Advice on EU law and

standards

INNOVATION

SUPPORT

Research funding

Market intelligence

IPR expertise

INTERNATIONAL

PARTNERSHIPS

Company missions

Brokerage events

Technology transfer

How it works: international partnerships

The Network business database contains thousands of company

profiles to find the perfect match

Matchmaking events across Europe where you can

meet potential business partners in person. We schedule meetings for you and help you

prepare for them.

How it works: technology missions

The Network identifies centres of interest and excellence. We organize

visits

Groups of companies share knowledge, transfer

technology and learn from each otherWe put together the visit, set up side meetings

and follow up to create opportunities.

How it works: advisory support

Access to venture capital and public aid

Advice on EU laws and standards

Input in the EU regulatory process

Advice on intellectual property

Technology transfer

How it works: innovation support

Tailored support packages to steer you onto the fast track to success.

Assistance to access funding available “Horizon 2020”

which has almost €80 billion of funding available over 7

years (2014 to 2020).

Help in protecting ideas and technologies.

Help in finding the right technology or innovation

Support in finding finance it needs to grow.

How it works: innovation support

Innovate2Succeed.

A needs assessment review and with reference to

Innovation Management Standard, CEN/TS 16555,

businesses will be helped to:

•Create an effective culture of innovation

•Develop and implement innovation processes

•Stimulate and capture ideas

•Discover opportunities for growth

Step 1

Diagnostic

Step 2

Action plan

Step 3

Help with

barriers

17 key sectorsNetwork experts in 17 key sectors have teamed up to provide you with customised support.

Women

Entrepreneurship

Agrofood Automotive, Transport

and Logistics

BioChemTech Creative

Industries

Environment

Healthcare ICT Industry &

Services

Intelligent

Energy

Maritime Industry

and Services

Materials Nano and micro

technologies

Services and

Retail

Sustainable

Construction

Textile & Fashion Tourism and

Cultural Heritage

Aeronautics

and space

Contact

• www.enterprise-europe.co.uk

• www.enterprise-europe.co.uk/content/about_enterprise_europe_network_uk/the_regions/northern_ireland/

• @EEN_InvestNI

• andrew.millar@investni.com

September 2016 Update

30th September 2016

NI Textiles Cluster - Belfast

Brian J. McCarthy

M&M Competition Round 1

Consortium BuildingInnovate UK competition

Over 1,000 expressions of interest registered on website

Over 240 proposals submitted

Initial conclusions from assessment:

Projects showing lack of risk

Greater competition – reduced % of projects funded

UKFT

UK Fashion & Textile Association – UKFT

CEO – Adam Mansell

www.ukft.org

Report published in August

UK textile and apparel manufacturing gathers pace

UK Textiles and Apparel

Number of companies producing Textiles and Apparel in

UK rose to 7,880 – a 7.6% increase on the previous

year

Number of Apparel manufacturers – up by 10.7% to

3,830 companies

Number of Textile manufacturers – increased by 4.9%

on year to 4,030

Rising cost of overseas production

Increasing need for supply control and flexibility on the

part of retailers and brands

Greater consumer awareness of UK production

Continued export demand for UK-produced textiles and

apparel

Factors affecting change

Employment

The number of people employed in textile and apparel

manufacturing (including self-employed) is at its highest

level since 2006 – at approx. 132,000

Mixed start to 2016 – and effect of BREXIT

In Numbers

Exports - +1.6% to £8.5 billion

Imports - +3% to £23.4 billion

UK Consumer Spending - +4.8% to £66 billion

Michael Thompson Resonate Testing

Technical Textiles Group30th September 2016

The Nacelle Group -Complementary approach • Nacelle Systems Consultancy (NSC) – a

highly specialised consultancy service in its tenth year of operation. NSC has proven expertise in the design, integration, installation, validation and certification of powerplant related systems.

• Resonate Testing – a new commercial Test House offering high quality testing and certification services for organisations from all sectors, adding to our experience in product validation

• Nacelle Systems Technology (NST) – a subsidiary of the overall group that focuses on offering a unique diversification into R&D, Product Development and Fabrication.

Resonate Testing Limited offers a state-of-the-art 6,000 sqft test facility within the island of Ireland, convenient located within 1 hour of Dublin and Belfast. Our primary focus lies within our Four cornerstones of testing;• Vibration and shock• Powerplant Fire • Flammability• Environmental Testing

As a recently incorporated company, Resonate Testing Ltd represents a $3.3 Million USD investment, and currently employs 8 people, supported by an additional 8 people seconded from Nacelle Systems Consultancy Ltd. Recruitment is ongoing. The organisation is actively engaged in gaining UKAS accreditation to ISO 17025 for a range of testing including a complete range of powerplant fire testing.As part of The Nacelle Group we have a wealth of expertise in test specification and component certification and validation.

About Resonate Testing

Many products are required to meet rigorous standards, product-specific test protocols to achieve approval, certification standards or simply for validation during product development phases.

Our vibration test laboratory features a high force electrodynamic vibration table capable of a wide range of frequencies, amplitudes and spectrums.

In addition to the standards mentioned we have the capability to test to customer specified requirements and defined vibration profiles.

Resonate Testing Ltd-Vibration and Shock Testing

SHAKER, SLIP TABLE AND POWER AMPLIFIER

VIBRATION TESTING CAPABILITIES

Swept Sine Vibration Control

Resonance Search and Tracked Dwell

Multi Frequency Sine Control

RTCA DO-160: SECTION 8.0

IEC 60068-2-6:2007

Random Vibration Control

Power spectral density

RTCA DO-160G: SECTION 8.0

IEC 60068-2-64:2008

Shock Testing

Classical shock

Drop test

RTCA DO-160G: SECTION 7.0

IEC 60068-2-27:2008

IEC 60068-2-31:2008

• Temperature shock • Humidity• Sand and Dust• Waterproofness IP requirements• Icing• Fluids Susceptibility• Salt Spray• Shock, bump and topple• Fungus

There are a range of general environmental tests which will be complimentary to the core Vibration and Fire Testing

General Environmental Tests

Temperature -100C to +200CShock significant ramp rates in excess of aerospace requirements,+150C to -50 C in 7 Minutes.

Resonate Testing Ltd-Fire Test Facilities

FAA OIL BURNER (NEXGEN)

FAA (CARLIN) OIL BURNER

FAA Large burner testsThe Facility will offer power plant testing using a modified gun oil burner and a NexGen burner per FAA requirements.

We will have the capability of performing material testing for aircraft Seat Cushions, Cargo Panel and Thermal Acoustical insulation according to FAA & EASA requirements. In addition we will have facilities to fire test powerplant components including fire wall and hoses.

Testing will be carried out according to the following requirements:-

– AC20-135

– FAA Handbook Chapter 7,8, 11, 12, 24 & 25,

– FAR Part 25 Appendix F,

– AS1055, AS1377, AS4273

– FAA Handbook Chapter 1,2, 3 & 4

– And customer specific requirements.

Resonate Testing Ltd-Fire Test Facilities

FAA Multi-purpose small scale flammability testingThe facility will also offer small scale testing and measurement of the ignition resistant properties of aircraft materials. This is Vertical & Horizontal and 45° Material Testing and can be expanded to the requirements of other industries.

To the following specifications:-

– FAR Part 25 Appendix F Part I (Vertical, Horizontal, 45° and 60°) – Airbus AITM 2.002, 2.003, 2.004, & 2.005, – Boeing BSS 7230: F-1, F-2, F-3, F-4, F-5, & F-6

AccreditationsIt is the intent to gain UKAS accreditation for the Laboratory, and FAA approval for fire testing.

FAA MULTI-PURPOSE SMALL SCALE FLAMMABILITY

Flammability Testing Video -

Horizontal

Flammability Testing Video -

Vertical

Flammability Testing Video – 45

Degree

Why Test ?

• Research & Development – To reduce wasted effort in the R&D development cycle

• Engineering Assurance – To ensure that your product meets your own standards, assist your sales process and bring you into compliance with a customer requirement

• Certification – to show compliance with required industry standards for the application the product is being used within

What standards to test to?• Well, there are many, many standards across multiple sectors

– aerospace, marine, construction, household furnishings, clothing etc.

• It depends what the purpose of the test is

• As a test facility we will hold ISO17025 accreditation which covers core testing methodologies

• And we can develop the test to meet your industry requirement

Thank You

For further information on the capabilities of Resonate Testing and Nacelle Systems Consultancy

Please Contact Michael Thompson, General Managermichaelthompson@thenacellegroup.com

+44 (0)28 9073 6390

Barbara Shepherd Manchester

Metropolitan University

Head Of Business Engagement : Barbara Shepherd

E Mail: b.shepherd@mmu.ac.uk

Mobile: 0777 268 4344

SKYPE: b.shepherdmmu

WEBSITE: http://fashioninstitute.mmu.ac.uk

Manchester Metropolitan

University

Numbers

260,000 alumni

37,000 students; 3,500 international students

Links with more than 70 professional bodies

and associations

More than 1,000 Undergraduate and

Postgraduate courses

Ranked within the global top 3% of

universities by The Times Higher Education

World University Rankings 2015

Manchester Metropolitan

UniversityFaculties

Faculty of Science and Engineering

Faculty of Arts and Humanities

Faculty of Health, Psychology and Social Care

Faculty of Education

Faculty of Business and Law

Cheshire Campus

School of Art

Manchester Metropolitan

University

Investment

£35 m: School of Art, 2012

£75 m: Business School, 2012

£15 m: Manchester Fashion Institute, 2013

£100 m: Birley Fields, 2014

Birley Fields

Manchester Fashion InstituteStrengths

Dedicated employability and placement team

Technical resources

Anthropometrics / laboratory facilities

International industrial and educational links

Broad research expertise

Manchester Fashion Institute Staff

55 full-time subject-specific academic staff

plus associate lecturers

Active in research, regularly contributing to

conferences and publishing in professional

and academic books and journals

Links with universities worldwide

Manchester Fashion Institute Research

Research teams

Fashion Business Management

Fashion Design

Fashion Marketing & Communication

Innovative Materials & Product Development

Research partners

ASOS, Berghaus, Canterbury,

Marks & Spencer, Speedo ,Boohoo

Avatars generated from anthropometric data, a sizing

research project for ASOS

Manchester Fashion Institute Partners

Academic partners

BIFT (Beijing)

Bunka Fashion College (Tokyo)

George Brown College (Toronto)

Istituto Marangoni (Paris / London)

North Carolina State University (Greensboro, NC)

Pearl Academy (New Delhi)

RMIT (Melbourne)

Ryerson University (Toronto)

SUNY (Buffalo, NY)

Texas Tech University (Lubbock, TX)

Dr Lynn Boorady (SUNY) speaking to students at

The Big Issue conference, 2014

Industry partners

Abercrombie & Fitch, ASOS, BooHoo,

British Fur Trade Association, Burberry,

Canterbury, Hugo Boss, Old Navy,

Orsola de Castro, Portwest, Quantem,

Ralph Lauren, Carry Somers, Speedo,

Tommy Hilfiger

Placement providers

Adidas, ASOS, BooHoo, Burberry,

Caroline Charles, Margaret Howell,

Net a Porter, New Look, Nike, Primark,

Puma, Ralph Lauren, River Island

Orsola de Castro (Reclaim to Wear / Fashion Revolution) speaking

on sustainable fashion at Connect Forum, 2015

Manchester Fashion InstituteProgrammes

Undergraduate

BA (Hons) Fashion Business Management

BA (Hons) Fashion Buying & Merchandising

BA (Hons) Fashion Design & Technology: Womenswear / 

Sportswear / Menswear

BA (Hons) Fashion Futures

BA (Hons) International Fashion Promotion

BA (Hons) Fashion

BA (Hon) Art Direction

Foundation Year

Fashion Buying & Merchandising

Fashion Design & Technology

International Fashion Promotion

BA (Hons) Fashion Design & Technology

Postgraduate

MA Fashion Innovation

MA Fashion Journalism

MA Responsible Fashion

MA Fashion Graphics

MA Fashion Knitwear

MA International Fashion Business: Marketing

Management

MA Fashion Womenswear

MA Fashion Menswear

MA Fashion Innovation

MA International Fashion Business: Buying and

Merchandising Management

MA Responsible Fashion

MSc by Research, MPhil and PhD

PhD student, Nabil Nayal

Manchester Fashion Institute International

The Big Issue, annual student conference

Connect, sustainable fashion student collaboration

with BIFT (Beijing), RMIT (Melbourne) and SUNY

(Buffalo, NY)

Fashion promotion student collaboration with

BIFT (Beijing)

Sportswear design student collaboration with

Bunka (Tokyo)

Cotton Exchange: fashion buying and merchandising

student collaboration with Texas Tech University

(Lubbock, TX)

Sass Brown (SUNY) and Alexander Lamb (Ralph Lauren),

guest speakers at The Big Issue conference, 2015

Manchester Fashion Institute Student careers

Fashion design

Product development

Buying

Sourcing

Merchandising

Marketing

Supply chain management

Graduate Fashion Week, London

Alumni

Bert Bagnall Press Officer, Giorgio Armani

Darren Barry Design Manager, Kathmandu

Lauren Baxendale Senior Buyer, Henry Lloyd

Elizabeth Brown Design Engineer, Survitec Group

Tom Burke Assistant Manager, Chanel,

New Bond Street, London

Harry Davis Brand Manager, Givenchy

Jason Denham Denham Amsterdam

Catriona Derrins Designer, Gap/Old Navy

Camilla Fowlkes Buyer, Selfridges

Bryn Glor Product Developer, Burberry

Katharina Groborz Merchandising Manager,

McQ at Alexander McQueen

Alex Hindle Senior Designer, Team Sports, Adidas

Alexander Lamb Senior Designer, Ralph Lauren

Jenny Tran Designer, Burberry

Jason Denham Denham, Amsterdam

My Industry & Academic Background25 yrs + in Garment & Homewear Textile Industry

Commercial background : Have supplied all major UK High St Retailers across all product sectors

Worked with both UK manufacturers and Off Shore

Sourced and bought raw materials globally

Own consultancy business – Est 2008

Part Time Contract @ MMU – Since 2010

Research area of interest –Technical Textiles & Wearable Technologies

Working with MFI @ MMU

MMU SKILL SET Talent Pipeline Research Expertise Specialist Kit & Equipment Joint funded research projects

YOUR TEAM Build Business relationship Invest time and plan a realistic time frame

Academic Time Line

Head Of Business Engagement : Barbara Shepherd

E Mail: b.shepherd@mmu.ac.uk

Mobile: 0777 268 4344

SKYPE: b.shepherdmmu

WEBSITE:http://fashioninstitute.mmu.ac.uk

JoanJohnston

Design and USA Sales Director Stephen Walters and Sons Ltd

AnillustrationofthecustomersIworked withandproductdevelopedoverseventeenyears

9yearsasaboarddirector

WorkedinternationallyinUSA,Italy,FranceandwithJapanesecustomers

InvolvedinsettingupaTradingcompanyinChina

http://www.johnstonscashmere.com/retail/about-johnstons-of-elgin/our-story-dvd/english

Autumn Winter Knitwear and Accessories15/16 photo shoot

Creative Design Director for Johnstons Of ElginProducts developed and promoted during the two years including cashmere and fine woollen for accessories, home,

cloth for fashion, as well as a collection of men’s and ladies knitwear, sold across international markets

Autumn Winter Interiors collection15/16 photo shoot

http://www.johnstonscashmere.com/retail/77-new-bond-street/

Bespoke Fabrics-Responsible for the creation and development of Bespoke Fabrics, an online business retailing own range of luxury English and Irish woven fabrics and products.

Northumbria University Fashion CommunicationFocusing on the broad aspects of promotion through 2D, 3D space and digital communication.

Scotland support for textile manufacturing through government supported bodies,

Textile Future Forum-Connecting universities and businesses around textile innovation for projects in Scotland.

Zero Waste Scotland-The Scottish Government announced a £70 million fund (March 16) for innovation within this sector, which includes materials.

Scottish Textiles and Leather Association –STLA members only group

Interface –linking universities and businesses looking to develop an idea

Scottish Enterprise

Textiles Scotland

For Smaller makers

Emergents supporting creatives in the Highland and Islands

Craft Scotland

Cultural Enterprises.

TextilesIndustryinScotland2011–2015

Key finding’s from the research

CraftsmanshipProvenanceTrust, engagement and emotional connection

Understanding the consumerTransparency Sustainability

“Companies need to be distinctive, promoting attractive niche products which gets buyers’ attention, whilst having more mainstream offerings which generates stable revenues. This balance supports success and sustainability.”

Paul Smith, New Dawn For Textiles Conference 2012

We are emotional beings and emotion lies behind many of the decisions we make in our lives”Padua (2012)

Vertu presentation Luxury Interactive London 2015

KNOW YOUR CUSTOMER

Beryl Gibson a trend consultant states“ Traceability and manufacturing with superb heritage and expert time honoured skills is seen as a quality as important as the actual fabric”. Retailers are more confident buying from a well-established mill, often co-branding the product using the suppliers name.

Presented by Made By in March 16, at a meeting supported by Zero Waste Scotland

Patagoniavideohttp://apparelcoalition.org

Presented by Made By in March 16, at a meeting supported by Zero Waste Scotland

Presented by Made By in March 16, at a meeting supported by Zero Waste Scotland

Glenfiddich Presentation Luxury Interactive London 2015

Glenfiddich Presentation Luxury Interactive London 2015

DesignintheUK

17th-25th Sept16 22nd-25th Sept16

24th -26th May16

13th /14th July2016

JOAN JOHNSTONCreative Director

Tel: +44 (0)7740188040joan@bespokefabrics.co.uk