slat armor
Post on 06-Jul-2018
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hi C Johnson, glad you are enjoying the MGS blog and find it useful for your own project
plans. i will try to expand on your questions from your post
!" the second grenade launcher is omitted on the later MGS which features the s#ate
mounted MG with gun shield as the shield would hit the launcher mount. i ha$e seen
some pics where the second launcher is missing e$en with the older axial MG mount. the
mounting base is still there on the turret but the launcher framewor# is left off.
%" the wire conduit that is made from & angle metal runs wiring to the additional lights
that are on the front slat portion. additional lights were required to help dri$ers at night
as they found the standard lights going through the slats insufficient.
this photo is for discussion purposes only
the abo$e pic shows the headlights and & angle to hopefully clarify this as the lifting
hoo#s are used to mount the square supports for the angled forward slat panels so theoriginal headlights could not be mo$ed to the attachment lift points.
the guard rails for the headlights are omitted as the slat armour protects the headlight
cluster.
'" the arc slats on the sides where the turret would otherwise hit is bro#en up into %
portions on the left side. i will be wor#ing on this section after i finish the bac# slat
portions as this is off the chart in the (complicated( spectrograph. hopefully once finished
it will clarify this area.
later MGS) appear to ha$e an additional (lip( around the % left hatch edges. perhaps afterproduction began they found that these hatches distorted during explosions and needed
additional material on the perimeter to #eep them from buc#ling. for whate$er reason,
the *+ Club should be updated to ha$e these added.
-" the rear slat is simple yet complicated. each element is fairly simple but getting
e$erything in the correct proportion and placement will be complicated. the rear section
opens in a (double gate style( with drop in pins to #eep it loc#ed. the lower slat is
mounted directly to the doors. i will ta#e some clear pics of this when completed.
" the slat armour has four orange ha/ard lights mounted and i chose to ma#e them out
of bits of round styrene and plasticard of $arious thic#nesses. they are so small i plan to
paint them to loo# orange0clear rather than fuss with clear styrene which is harder and
more brittle to shape. i will be adding all the wiring that runs to them as well.
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i thin# once the model is painted all these tiny details will be clearer. i don)t belie$e my
camera can show these small pieces well when they are all white.
hope this helps and than#s Mr J for the great discussion on this project. this is the #ind of
thing that ma#es this forum fun for me. cheers, bd.
than#s Sean and 1alter for the #ind words of encouragement.
slat armour progress continues
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a little stop to test fit the turret
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i am beginning to understand why i ha$en)t seen any MGS) with slat armour in !0'th
scale... this is a bit on the elaborate side of scratchbuilding madness.
got to say i)m still ha$ing lots of fun slowly putting this one together though. hope the
pics con$ey some of the process for those loo#ing to represent their M!!%2 in field
ser$ice.
happy Canada 3ay to my fellow canuc# modelers. cheers, bd
hello e$eryone,
i)$e returned to my MGS slat armour project and ha$e made some progress
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next will be the arc pieces for the side panels.
hope e$eryone is ha$ing a great modeling wee#end. cheers, bd.
than#s e$eryone for the great discussion and wonderful models showing some
exceptional s#ills at producing anti4s#id.
this opens a lot of options for my project and i would li#e to express how much all the
input ma#es this forum a big part of my enjoyment from our hobby.
i agree that ha$ing anti4s#id texture on the correct panels as part of the box model would
be the ultimate situation and one that was pro$ided in *+ Club)s 1iesel #it, which was a
nice bonus and perfectly done to scale.
why can)t this be something on *+ Club)s MGS555 i guess they want
to lea$e something for the modeler to challenge themsel$es with &6&.
cheers, bd
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Christopher, that is absolutely the best anti4s#id texture i ha$e e$er seen 777 what a great
technique.
you really nailed the scale down perfectly. i will try this tip out on some spare parts and
weigh the pros and cons of whether i will try just using paint.
too# a loo# at your photos and was hoping to see more of this particular model. you ha$e
some other projects that are really cool but there isn)t more of the one you posted here.
cheers, bd
8eh 9ruce 7
:f you ha$e got the regular (grey( ;amiya putty just delute it with some turpentine so
you #ann spray it li#e paint under high pressure.
Go close with the first layer to build up some (strength( then delute it some more and
spray it $ericaly at a distance of around %rimeportal)s website and i lin# here for discussion purposes only
than#s for the input, it is $ery helpful in figuring out the way i should address thepainting. Gino has an excellent point about getting a better adhesion if i build e$erything
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before paint goes on.
i plan on doing the anti4s#id texturing a bit different then i ha$e seen most people go
about it for stry#ers. my research shows that the texture is $ery subtle and is not really
as (bumpy( as you might see in !0'th scale.
the plan is to create a different surface texture in the paint process rather than actually
go into adding textured paint or pouring on ba#ing soda.
the one method that i tested that wor#ed really well was to soften the model)s plastic
surface with ;estors liquid cement and then ta#e a toothbrush or brass wired brush and
lightly texture the surface. this wor#ed really well for the scale.
but in the end i thin# i may try a faux paint technique to see how this pans out. than#s
for all the help. cheers, bd.
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