warp knit spacer fabric - ft.tul.cz · underlap overlap . 22.05.2013 warp knit spacer fabric 8 open...

PROJEKT OPTIS PRO FT, reg. č.: CZ.1.07/2.2.00/28.0312 JE SPOLUFINANCOVÁN EVROPSKÝM SOCIÁLNÍM FONDEM A STÁTNÍM ROZPOČTEM ČESKÉ REPUBLIKY

Warp Knit Spacer Fabric

Construction and Produkt Development

Referent: Prof. Dr.- Ing. Katerina Machova

Weft Knit Warp Knit

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Weft Knit Machine - Single Face Fabric

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RL Kettenwirkerei

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7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0

Nadelbarrenbezeichnung

Controlside of the Machine (Electronics, cam or Chain link)

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7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0

Maschenbildung

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7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0

Maschenbildung

Underlap

Overlap

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Open loop Closed loop

loop head

loop leg

loop foot

underlap

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7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0

Maschenbildung

open loop closed loop

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Guide bar with yarn: brings the yarn to the needle due right and left motion

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Double Face Warp Knit

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threading scheme

Pillar Stitch

V 0

1

H 0

1

F B

F B

1 0

F B

F B

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threading scheme

Pillar Stitch

F 0

1

B 0

1

F B

F B

1 0

F B

F B

front loop

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threading scheme

Pillar Stitch

F 0

1

B 0

1

F B

F B

1 0

F B

F B

back loop

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Building of 3D Structure

first layer will be build only on front needle row

middle layer will be build on both needle row

second layer will be build only on back needle row

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F B

F B

F B

F B

F B

F B

F B

F B

2 1 0 2 1 0 2 1 0 F B

F B

F B

F B

front layer middle layer back layer

1–0/ 1-1 // 0–1 / 0-1 // 1–1/ 1-0 //

Warp Knit Produkts

Offecct

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Development of 3D Vent® by Steynbach

3D Vent ® is extrem function material without chemical additives. It ist combination of: Wooll Polyester Polyamid

Development of jackets

with integrated spacer fabrics

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Conditions to consider: - using of spacer fabric and ultralight PA weaving fabric - no seems of spacer fabric to feel on the skin - no seems of spacer fabric to see due the cover material - cut construcktion of cover material and inlay - processing of hems

Development of jackets – design draft

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Development of jackets – cut development

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Man Body

Body contour chest: 100 cm

U= 2���� plus 2 cm for s.fabric plus 2,5 cm for c.fabric

Spacer contour : 113,1 cm

Cover contour : 116,2 cm

rmodel = 16 cm

rspacer = 18 cm

rcover = 18,5 cm

Man Body

Development of jackets – cut development

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→ 3 cm distributed on 4 cut parts Cover fabric will be to 0,75 cm expanded in the width in comparison to spacer fabric.

Body contour chest: 100 cm

U= 2���� plus 2 cm for s.fabric plus 2,5 cm for c.fabric

Spacer contour : 113,1 cm

Cover contour : 116,2 cm

rmodel = 15,9 cm

rspacer = 18 cm

rcover = 18,5 cm

Development of jackets – cut development

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0,325 0,325 0,75 0,75

Development of jackets – cut development

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0,3

0,

3

0,3

0,

3

Development of jackets – seem development

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Development of jackets – seem development

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Development of jackets – seem development

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Development of jackets

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Unexpected Problems: - processing of zipper - processing of edges of the jackets

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Development of jackets - Result