arvind santej internship report

7/23/2019 Arvind santej internship report

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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION

TECHNOLOGY,GANDHINAGAR

2015 Textile InternshipReport

Arvind Santej

Submitted To-Pranav Vora

Submitted By-

Sunidhi Kumari

Nivedita KumariRavish Khan

DFT-V


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Acknowledgement

I would like to thank Arvind, Santej unit for giving me the opportunity

to undergo training in the textile department and for extending theirsupport towards us all throughout our internship

I would also like to thank NIFT, Gandhinagar for giving us this

opportunity and facilitating our internship

It was a great learning experience throughout to see one of the most well

planned and advanced textile units. We take the opportunity to thank all

the people who guided us through the entire process and made our

training a success by sharing their knowledge.I would like to thank Subhanish Malhotra, Chief Manager H.R. atArvind, without whose support and guidance the internship couldnt

have been completed satisfactorily.

I am also grateful to our College mentor Mr. Pranav Vora for guiding us

at every stage and making this project a success.

Sunidhi Kumari

Nivedita Kumari

Ravish Khan

DFT-V


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ContentsAcknowledgement ........................................................................................................................................ 2

OVERVIEW OF INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY .................................................................................................... 8

ABOUT THE COMPANY- ARVIND LIMITED .................................................................................................... 9

TIMELINE ..................................................................................................................................................... 12

COMPANYS VISION .................................................................................................................................... 14

DIVISIONS .................................................................................................................................................... 15

Woven Fabrics ............................................................................................................................................ 15

SHIRTING AND BOTTOM WEIGHTS ......................................................................................................... 15

DENIMS ................................................................................................................................................... 16

KHAKI .................................................................................................................................................... 17

VOILES ..................................................................................................................................................... 17

KNITS FABRICS ....................................................................................................................................... 18

Raw Material Store Room ........................................................................................................................... 22

Types of cotton Arvind Mills use: ............................................................................................................... 23

1. Pakistan Cotton ................................................................................................................................... 23

2. J34 SG .................................................................................................................................................. 23

3. Shankar-6 Gujarat cotton .................................................................................................................... 23

4. Organic cotton .................................................................................................................................... 23

SPINNING PROCESS ..................................................................................................................................... 25

PROCESS FLOW ........................................................................................................................................... 26

BLOW ROOM ............................................................................................................................................... 27

OBJECTIVES OF BLOWROOM: ................................................................................................................. 27

BLENDING (BDT Blendomat) ................................................................................................................... 29

GBR .......................................................................................................................................................... 30

AXI Flow Cleaner .................................................................................................................................... 31

MPM multiple mixer- .............................................................................................................................. 31

ASTA: ....................................................................................................................................................... 32

DUSTEX: ................................................................................................................................................... 32

CARDING: ................................................................................................................................................ 33

DRAWING ................................................................................................................................................ 34

ROVING ....................................................................................................................................................... 36


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Speed frame ............................................................................................................................................ 37

Ring frame: .............................................................................................................................................. 37

Random winding/ cone winding: ................................................................................................................ 38

Assembly winding: .................................................................................................................................. 39

TFO: ......................................................................................................................................................... 39

Singeing: .................................................................................................................................................. 39

List of testing instrument and their functions ............................................................................................ 40

WEAVING DEPARTMENT ............................................................................................................................. 40

WEAVING PREPARATION ................................................................................................................. 41

YARN DYEING .......................................................................................................................................... 43

The Recipe includes: ........................................................................................................................... 44

Procedure ............................................................................................................................................ 45

Dyeing related requirements: ................................................................................................................. 45

Beams for Beam dyeing .......................................................................................................................... 46

WINDING ................................................................................................................................................. 48

OBJECTIVES OF WINDING: .................................................................................................................. 48

HOW QUALITY IS MAINTAINED IN ARVIND MILLS? ............................................................................ 49

PRECISION WINDING: ......................................................................................................................... 49

NON PRECISION WINDING .................................................................................................................. 50

FOR WINDING ............................................................................................................................................. 50

WARPING ................................................................................................................................................ 51

(DIRECT WARPING OR BEAM WARPING) ............................................................................................ 52

(SECTIONAL WARPING) ....................................................................................................................... 54

Causes of yarn breakage in warping: .................................................................................................. 56

WARPING MACHINES IN SHIRTING DIVISION OF ARVIND .................................................................. 58

SIZING ...................................................................................................................................................... 59

Properties of Size Ingredients: ............................................................................................................ 59

The Important Features to be remembered During Sizing: ................................................................ 60

Effects of Sizing on Yarn: ..................................................................................................................... 60

Sizing Ingredients- ............................................................................................................................... 60

Sizing Material & Chemical Used: ....................................................................................................... 61

Typical sizing recipe- ........................................................................................................................... 61


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DRAWING-IN (REEDING) ......................................................................................................................... 63

PROCEDURE: ....................................................................................................................................... 63

FOR REMOVAL OF DEFECTS FROM WARP .............................................................................................. 64

WEAVING MECHANISM .......................................................................................................................... 64

PRIMARY MOTION .............................................................................................................................. 64

Shedding-Positive Electronic Dobby ................................................................................................... 64

Picking-Air-Jet Insertion ...................................................................................................................... 65

Picking- Double Rapier System ........................................................................................................... 65

Beating- Up ......................................................................................................................................... 65

SECONDARY MOTION ......................................................................................................................... 65

Let-Off ................................................................................................................................................. 66

Take-Up ............................................................................................................................................... 66

Weft Selection or Patterning .............................................................................................................. 66

ANCILLARY MOTION ................................................................................................................................ 66

PROCESSING ................................................................................................................................................ 67

SINGEING: ................................................................................................................................................... 67

DESIZING ..................................................................................................................................................... 67

Different methods of Desizing: ............................................................................................................... 68

1. Enzymatic desizing .............................................................................................................................. 68

The common components of an enzymatic desizing bath are as follows: ......................................... 68

Advantages of Enzymatic desizing ...................................................................................................... 68

Disadvantages: .................................................................................................................................... 69

2.Oxidative desizing ................................................................................................................................ 69

Two important oxidative desizing processes are: ............................................................................... 69

The advantages offered by oxidative desizing are .............................................................................. 69

SCOURING ................................................................................................................................................... 69

Objectives of Scouring: ........................................................................................................................... 70

Scouring process depends on: ................................................................................................................ 70

Description and Working Principle of Scouring Process: ........................................................................ 70

Precaution: .............................................................................................................................................. 70

BLEACHING .................................................................................................................................................. 71

DYEING AND PRINTING ............................................................................................................................... 71


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PRINTING ..................................................................................................................................................... 73

ROTARY-SCREEN PRINTING ......................................................................................................................... 73

Finishing techniques used in Arvind mills are: ............................................................................................ 76

Microsanding finish ................................................................................................................................. 77

SANFORIZING: Shrinkage CONTROL FINISH ............................................................................................ 78

MERCERIZING .......................................................................................................................................... 80

Effect of Mercerization - ..................................................................................................................... 80

Calendering finish ................................................................................................................................... 81

Stentering finish ...................................................................................................................................... 82

Softening airo finish ................................................................................................................................ 84

Technical advancements in finishing ...................................................................................................... 84

PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL DEPARTMENT ............................................................................ 92

COSTING .................................................................................................................................................. 94

QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT .......................................................................................................... 94

COTTON LABORTARY: ............................................................................................................................. 95

PHYSICAL TESTING LABORTARY .............................................................................................................. 96

CHEMICAL TESTING LABORTARY: ........................................................................................................... 96

COLOUR QUEST LABORTARY:.................................................................................................................. 96

CALIBRATION LABORATORY: ................................................................................................................... 97

CHECK POINTS IN GREY FABRIC INSPECTION (ARVIND SHIRTING): ............................................................ 98

PROFORMA OF FABRIC INSPECTION REPORT ( ARVIND SHIRTING) ........................................................ 98

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT AND CONSTRUCTION DEPARTMENT: ................................................................ 100

SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY ............................................................................................................................ 102

ENVIRONMENTAL INITIATIVES .............................................................................................................. 103


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OBJECTIVES OF INTERNSHIP

The main objectives of the project/internship were:

1. Understanding basic principles of production of textiles.

2. In depth study and understanding of all process involved in textile production and the

machinery and equipment used.

3. Knowledge about the company.

4. Understanding the companys process flow in production

5. Study the work environment and practices followed for textile production.

The project is based on two weeks (i.e., May 25, 2015 to June 6, 2015) internship in

Arvind Mills- Shirting Division, Santej (Gandhinagar) unit. It covers the information

and learning experiences related to manufacturing shirting fabrics and the the

processes involved are:

Spinning

Dyeing

Weaving

Finishing

Testing

Industry Mentor- MR. SUBHANISH MALHOTARA (Chief Manager HR)


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OVERVIEW OF INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY

The textile industry has been gradually re-located from the developed to the developing

countries, over the last few decades. This phenomenon has increased the opportunity fordeveloping countries to boost manufacturing and trade in textiles. It is highly competitive and its

prospects are continuously increasing.

The Indian textile industry has a significant presence in the economy as well as in the

international textile economy. Its contribution to the Indian economy is manifested in terms of its

contribution to the industrial production, employment generation and foreign exchange earnings.

It contributes 20 percent of industrial production, 9 percent of excise collections, 18 percent of

employment in the industrial sector, nearly 20 percent to the country s total export earning and 4

percent to the Gross Domestic Product. A strong raw material production base, a vast pool of

skilled and unskilled personnel, cheap labour, good export potential and low import content aresome of the salient features of the Indian textile industry. This is a traditional, robust, well-

established industry, enjoying considerable demand in the domestic as well as global markets.

Indias presence in the international market is significant in the areas of

fabrics and yarn as:

India is the largest exporter of yarn in the international market and has a share of 25% in

world cotton yarn exports.

India accounts for 12% of the worlds production of textile fibres and yarn.

In terms of spindleage, the Indian textile industry is ranked second, after China, and

accounts for 23% of the worlds spindle capacity.

Around 6% of global rotor capacity is in India.

The country has the highest loom capacity, including handlooms, with a share of 61% in

world loomage.

India has the potential to increase its textile and apparel share in the world trade from the current

level of 4.5% to 8% and reach US $ 80 by 2020.


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ABOUT THE COMPANY- ARVIND LIMITED

The Arvind Limited is one of the largest textile conglomerates in Asia. Its headquarters is inAhmedabad (Gujarat). It manufactures a range of Shirting, Denims, Knits and Bottom weights

(Khakis) fabrics. The company has a turnover of approximately $ 500 million and is a part of

over 100 years old Lalbhai Group.

Arvind ranks in top three largest Denim producers worldwide with an annual production of over

90 million meters of Denim Fabric and Exports to over 70 countries. It is also one of the largest

producers in Asia of high value cotton shirting fabrics. It has a capacity of around 34 MMPA

(million meters per annum) of yard dyed shirting and piece dyed shirting fabric including

specialty Fine count Indigo yarn dyed and solid Shirting fabric. It produces approximately 20

MMPA of Piece Dyed Khaki's fabrics and around 16 TPD (tones per day) of Knits Fabrics whichis vertically integrated into Knits Garments.

Arvind started with a share capital of 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year 1931. With the aim of

manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind Limited invested in very sophisticated

technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the

few companies in those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to

full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales in the year

1934, three years after establishment were 45.76 lakh and profits were 2.82 lakh.

In the mid 1980s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power loom churning

out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills lost their markets, and were

on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its highest level of profitability. At this

point of time Arvindsmanagement coined a new word for it new strategy Reno Vision. It

simply meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious and that became

the corporate philosophy.

The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvinds markets shifted from

domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods. Cottons were the

largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular priced segments,Reno vision pointed to high quality premium niches. Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export

market for two sections: Denim for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton

shirting and trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was

the third largest producer of Denim in the world.


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In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits facility, the largest of its

kind in India, at Santej, Gandhinagar (Gujarat). With Arvindsconcern for environment a most

modern effluent treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability was also established.

Arvind entered into exports of garments setting up Shirt factories in Bangalore in 2001. This

modest beginning has quickly grown to a capacity of around 4.50 Million Shirts per annum and

the list of customers includes Gap, Dockers, Next, Esprit,and many others.

Arvind's entry into Jeans/ Pants was delayed due to the tight quota situation in India. It entered

into Jeans Garment exports with its first Jeans factory The Arvind Overseas (Mauritius) Ltd.,

Mauritius, to offer full Garment package to its customers in USA and Europe. This factory which

started in March 2002 was a good stepping stone/ pilot plant and did programs with customers

which included Express, Next, M&S, Lee Cooper, Rocawear and others. With the world moving

into a new Quota Free world, Arvind decided to move the Garment factory to Bangalore, India in

September 2004, to offer its customers more flexibility and better cost effectiveness. Company'scurrent Jeans capacity is around 10 Million Pieces per annum.

Year 2005 was a watershed year for textiles. With the muliti-fiber agreement getting phased out

and the disbanding of quotas, international textile trade was poised for a quantum leap. In the

domestic market too, the rationalizing of the cenvat chain and the growth of the organized retail

industry was likely to make textiles and apparel see an explosive growth.

Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current operations by setting up

world-scale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop services, by offering garment

packages to its international and domestic customers. With Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and TommyHilfiger and its own domestic brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf,

Arvind is setting its vision of becoming the largest apparel brands company in India. Arvind also

runs a value retail chain, Megamart, which stocks company brands. Arvind feature is that its

enterprises are equipped with highly advanced equipment of a full cycle- from painting the fiber

to the finished product.

With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true Indian

multinational, having chosen to invest strategically, where demand has been high and quality

requirement is being superlative. Arvind has set the pace for changing global customer demands

of textiles and has focused its attention on selected core products. Such a focus has enabled the

company to play a dominant role in the global textile arena. Today, The Arvind Limited is the

flagship company of 30 billion Lalbhai Group.


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Current Chairman and Managing DirectorMR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI

Figure 1: Journey Of Arvind Limited

In 1930, the world suffered a traumatic depression. Companies across the globe began closing

down. In UK and in India, the textile industry in particular, was in trouble. At about this time,

Mahatma Gandhi championed the Swadeshi Movement and at his call, people from all India

began boycotting fine and superfine fabrics, which had so far been imported from England. In

the midst of this depression one family saw opportunity. The Lalbhais reasoned that the demand

for fine and superfine fabrics still existed. And any Indian company that met this demand would

surely prosper. The three brothers, Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and Chimanbhai decided to put up

a mill to produce this superfine fabric and the Arvind Mills (Arvind Limited) was born. The

best technology of that time was acquired at a most attractive price.

Figure 2: Beginning Of Arvind Limited


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TIMELINE

1931 Arvind Limited is set up by three brothers Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and

Chimanbhai Lalbhai with a share capital of 2,525,000 (US$55,000) backed by

state-of-the-art technology of England, with the aim to produce high-end superfinefabric. Products manufactured are dhoties,sarees,mulls, dorias, crepes, shirtings,

bra, panties, coatings, printed lawns & voiles cambrics, twills gaberdine etc.

1934 With sales reaching 45.76 Lakhs, and a profit of almost 3 Lakhs, Arvind

Limited establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the country.

1980 Arvind Limited records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy Reno

vision, points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a high-

quality premium niche market.

1986 An uninterrupted record of not missing out on paying dividend to its

shareholders.

First company to bring globally accepted fabrics Denim, yarn dyed shirting

fabrics and wrinkle free gabardines to India.

1987-88 Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim for

leisure and Denim for fashion wear.

An established leader in fine and superfine cotton fabrics in Indian

markets.

1991 Arvind reached 100 million meters of denim per year. Arvind emerges as the third

largest manufacturer of denim in the world.

1992 The Company increased the production of denim cloth by 23,000 tonnes per day

by modernising the plant located at Khatraj of Ankur Textiles.1993 The Company proposed to expand the denim manufacturing capacity by

85,00,000 metres per annum.

The Company also proposed to set up a new composite mill for producing

annually 120 lakh meters of high quality shirting fabrics to be marketed in

the domestic as well as international markets.

1993-94 First Company to bring International Shirt brand Arrow to India.

First company to start retail outlets for Arrow brand.

1995 The performance of textile division was significantly affected due to an

unprecedented rise in cost of cotton.

Garment division launched ready to stitch jeans pack under the brand Ruf& Tuf.

1997 Indias largest state-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is set

up at Santej, Gandhinagar (Gujarat).

The largest zero discharge green effluent treatment plant in India.

The marketing and distribution network of Newport brand was

strengthened and the relaunched Flying Machine and Ruggers brand
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sareehttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saree


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were strengthened.

The Company reported a fire in the goods godown & folding packing

department in Naroda Road unit of the company.

Arvind sets up the anti-piracy cell for the first time in India to curb large

scale counterfeiting of their highly successful brands Ruf & Tuf and

Newport jeans.

Arvind Limited adopts the franchisee system for the manufacture and

distribution of Ruf and Tuf jeans.

Arvind Fashions, doubles its capacity in the state-of-the-art manufacturing

facility in Bangalore to produce Lee jeans.

First Indian company to verticalize the cotton textile business from cotton

fields to apparel retailing.

1997 was also the year when Arvind Limited started facing serious troubles

financially.

1998 First company to introduce ERP SAP business solutions in their new

manufacturing unit in April 1998.

Largest Denim and Shirting in South Asia.

1999 Arvind sets a two-month deadline for hiving off its garments division into a

separate company and sale of its real estate in Delhi.

2000 CRISIL downgrades the debenture issues of Arvind Limited, indicating

that the instruments were in default.

2001 Arvind entered into exports of garments setting up Shirt factories in

Bangalore in 2001.

Arvind defaults on a $125 million floating rate note issue and puts forward

a debt restructuring proposal that could significantly reduce its debt burden

and sharply improve its financial health.

Arvind Limited posts a net loss of 44.59 crore for the quarter ended

September 30, 2001.

2002 Arvind entered into Jeans Garment exports in March 2002 with its first

Jeans factory The Arvind Overseas (Mauritius) Ltd., Mauritius, to offer

full Garment package to its customers in USA and Europe.

2003 For the fourth quarter, Arvind witnesses 280% growth in the net profit.

Arvind Limited is assigned a `P1+` rating by CRISIL, which indicates a

very strong rating for their commercial paper.

2004 Company turns itself around showing remarkable improvement in financial

performance.

Arvind decided to move the Denim Garment factory to Bangalore, India in

September 2004.

2005 Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale, offering


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garment packages to reputed national and international customers.

For the fourth quarter in a row, Arvind has managed to post a profit growth

in excess of 80 per cent.

Arvind Limited decides to buy entire stake in Arvind Brands

from ICICI Ventures

2007 Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by

establishing MegaMartOne of Indias largest value retail chains.

2008 Largest portfolio of International brands: Lee, Wrangler, Nautica, Jansport,

Kipling, Tommy, Arrow, US Polo, Izod, Pierre Cardin, Palm Beach,

Cherokee etc.

2010 Arvind Limited launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the

companys best fabrics, brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions

under one roof.

Arvindbecomes one of Indias largest producers of fire protection fabrics.

Table 1: Timeline of Arvind Limited

COMPANYS VISION

They Believe

In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus on problem solving; in teams for

effective performance, in the power of the intellect.

They Endeavour

To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to build

leaders for the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual

business contributions.

They Dream

Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and prosperity; of making the world a betterplace to live in.


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EXECUTIVE LEADERS

Table 2: Executive Leaders Of Arvind Limited

(Source: Company official website www.arvindmills.com)

DIVISIONS

Woven Fabrics

SHIRTINGANDBOTTOMWEIGHTS

Arvinds expertise in new age shirting fabric and bottom weights is unparalleled. Their shirting

fabrics have consistently fetched a premium in the local and international markets. Prominent

products within shirting category include fabrics with non-iron properties, mechanical finishes,

printed fabrics apart from the cotton and cotton blends in Linen, Lycra, Polyester, Modal, Silk

etc. with varieties in yarn dyes and solids.

The state of the art facility is capable of producing a total of 65 million meters per annum of

Shirting (35 million meters) and bottom weight fabrics (30 million meters). It ensures that

stringent quality standards are met and products remain eco-friendly. This capacity is set to

increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the next financial year.

Further, Arvind has a unique plant for manufacturing very light weight indigo dyed fabrics in

yarn dyed and solids for top weights. Arvind Shirting has a liquid ammonia based fabric

processing plant and a state-of-the-art print housea first for India and one of the few in Asia.

Corporate

Jayesh ShahDirector & CFO

Anang LalbhaiMD - Arvind Products

Lifestyle Fabrics

Aamir AkhtarCEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim

Susheel KaulCEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics

PD ChavdaPresident, Voiles

Lifestyle Apparel

Ashish Kumar

CEO, LifestyleApparel - Jeans &Shirts

Brands & Retail

J.SureshManaging Director - Brands & Retail


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They have a dedicated in-house design team constantly working on product innovation and

fashion forecasts for the domestic and international markets. They also boast of the largest

yardage and sampling mill in India.

Their spinning setup can produce a variety of counts for yarn types like compacts, slubs, signed

yarn etc. The weaving capabilities include high-speed Airjet looms and Rapier looms. Theirfinishing capabilities include continuous bleaching and dying ranges, caustic mercerization, and

machinery for various chemical and mechanical finishes.

A sophisticated and supremely flexible package dying facility complete with vessels ranging

from 1 Kg to 750 Kilograms and state of the art printing facilities are also in place.

In addition to cotton they now work with a variety of fibers including Modal, Tencel,

Excel, Viscose, Bemberg, Lycra, Silk, Linen, Polyester and Nylon.

They are host to Indias first Ammonia Mercerization Plant.

They use patented technology to impart structural stability and superior hand-feel for thedifficult-to-handle fibers like Modal, Tencel, Excel and Viscose.

Over the years, their in house R&D department has successfully developed and perfected

a number of finishes adding value to our products and uniqueness to our range.

Other Chemical Finishes: Wrinkle free, Prepress, Everfresh, Easy to Iron, Stain

Repellant, Nano Care, Anti-Bacterial, Permawhite etc.

Mechanical Finishes: Aero, Peach, Brush, Diamond Emery and Carbonium.

Their product range is certified by Oekotex, processes are certified by GOTS for producingOrganic products. They are certified producers of Lycra and Teflon based varieties, while their

laboratory is accredited by Marks and Spencers, Next, Gap Inc., Levi's, DuPont and INVISTA.

DENIMS

The late 1980s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an installed

capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading producer of denim in the

world. It has an export network of 70 countries worldwide. Design, Innovations and

Sustainability have been their core competency and have played a key role in the success. Theuse of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers

has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. All their products are

designed and modeled on the basis of expert design inputs coming from our designers based out

of India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark

of distinctiveness and quality.

Some Examples:


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Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim

Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge

Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen

Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes

Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim

Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim

The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS,

and Organic exchange standard. Our labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025 certification) and

customers like Levis, Lee, and Wrangler etc. As one of the largest denim producers in the

world, Arvind caters to quality markets of Europe, US, West Asia, the Far East and the Asia

Pacific.

KHAKI

The many virtues of Arvind Khaki merit undivided attention: An annual capacity of 21 million

meters which facilitates the launch of two new collections annually; and the distinction of being

the only khakis division in South East Asia to do so.

The division provides the finest fabrics in the variants of 100% Cotton, Cotton Rich Polyester

Blend, Cotton Lycra, Cotton Tencel, Cotton Linen, etc to name a few. The division has an

integrated plant with weaving and processing facilities. The most prominent products in this

range include Chinos, Canvas, Ribstop, HBT, Tussore, Cavalry, Structures and Dobbies.

VOILES

Arvind has been well poised as a leading manufacturer of super fine fabrics in India. An

uncontested market-leader in the manufacture of voiles, Arvind still continues to manufacture the

traditional fabric for both domestic and international markets. The legacy of Arvind transcends

from the olden days into a golden future with a production capacity of 36 million meters per

annum. Arvinds voiles are primarily used as blouse material and are sold in the domestic market

through an impressive network of around 150 dealers, reaching over 5000 retail outlets

throughout India. High quality Swiss voiles are exported to Switzerland, Sri Lanka and countries

in the Middle East.


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Customers of Woven Fabrics:

Banana Republic, Brooks Brothers, Ann Taylor, Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein, Polo Ralph, Eddie

Bauer, Express, J Crew, Louis Phillip, Van Heusen, Arrow, Color Plus, Esprit, Paul Smith, Park

Avenue

KNITS FABRICS

Arvinds knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 5,000 tons. The knits vertical has a

fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity of 1800 tons per annum.

It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabrics and offers specialty finishes like

mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing and peaching. The department also boasts

of a state-of- the art print shop equipped with fully automatic placement printing capabilities

Basic knits:

Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock

Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric

Fibers: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester

Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.

Customers:Marks & SpencerEddie BauerZaraJosepha Bank

ADVANCED MATERIALS

Arvind's Advanced Materials is a certified ISO 9001: 2008 manufacturing facility

producing high performance industr ial fabrics with world class technology and

knowhow based on a strong foundation of knowledge, research and market needs.

They are committed to offer textile solutions for rapidly growing sectors like General

Industrial manufacturing and processing, infrastructure, transport, energy and personal

protection.

OTHER DIVISIONS

GARMENT EXPORTS

A world without boundaries is a promise of a global marketplace. At Arvind, the range of fabrics

is universal in appeal. They aim to inspire a diverse mix of customers enriching lifestyles

globally.

Bottoms: 7.2 million pieces of jeans per annum\

Formal & Casual tops: 6 million pieces per annum


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Knit tops: 3.6 million pieces per annum

Their specialized capabilities for adding value to our products include;

Automated Placement Printing Machinery

Indias largest washing facility with Tonello machines for wet processes

Bohemian machines and Laser tech for unique and automated dry processes

Skilled artisans for hand processes

BRANDS

Arvind today manufactures fabric for the following brand names:-

Inhouse brands : Excalibur,Flying machine,Ruff and tuff,New Port university.

Licensed Brands: Gant, U.S.A. 1949, Hart Shaffer Marx, USPA, Sansa Belt , Arrow

Joint Ventured Brands: Tommy Hilfiger, Nautica, Lee, Wrangler,Riders


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ORGANIZATION CHART OF ARVIND MILLS-SHIRTING DIVISION

Chairman & Managing Director(Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai)

Chief Executive Officer- Knits and Woven Fabrics(Mr. Susheel Kaul)

Production

HR Department

Material Stores

Administration & Accounts

Exports and Domestic

Packaging

Spinning

Engineering

Weaving

Processing & Finishing

Testing

Production Planning and Control

Quality Control


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PROCESSES / DEPARTMENTS OF ARVIND MILLS, SANTEJ

PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW CHART

SPINNING

WEAVING PREPARATION

WEAVING

WET PROCESSING

DYEING/ PRINTING

FINISHING


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Raw Material Store Room

OBJECTIVE

The Raw Materials Department is the department from where the work starts in the plant. The

main objectives of raw material department are storing, issuing, and reconciliation of raw

material intended for manufacturing.

(Raw Materials were placed in the storage Room as per their sourcing places.)

SYSTEM AND PROCEDURE

Work takes place in the following systematic order:-

1. The orders are placed in the Marketing Department, at the Head Office stationed at

Arvind mills santej, Ahmedabad. The customer specifies its requirements in the order.

2. A sales order is then prepared giving a systematic description of the requirements by the

Marketing Department, which is then sent to the factory.

3. The Sales Order is received at the Production Planning and Commitment Department

(PPC).

4. The PPC Department then makes the production planning chart which includes all the

characteristics of the yarn required.

5. The Production Program is then sent to the Raw Materials Department.


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ROLE OF RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT

It receives the material, which is ordered by production department and issues the required

material to the department. In case of rejection, it stores the rejected material and returns it to the

seller end.

Types of cotton Arvind Mills use:

1.PAKISTAN COTTON

2.J34SG

It is a selection from non-descriptive hirustum mixtures. Re-selection from Bikaneri Narma. It is

sown in the months of April/May and the crop is ready for picking by October/December..

J34RG and SG are grown in the states of Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan and total production per

annum is around 2.6 million bales of each of 170 Kg.

3.SHANKAR-6GUJARAT COTTON

It is sown in the month of June-July and is ready for picking in November and may extend upto

February. It is cultivated in an area of 4.4 million Acres in the state of Gujarat.

4.ORGANIC COTTON

Organic cotton is being produced in-house by arvind mills, and also being procured from fully

organic certified farms, as some environment conscious customers prefer to use it.

b. Arvinds organic cotton contract farming project is located in the cotton growing belt district

of Maharashtra; Akola. )

.

MATERIAL PURCHASE

In Raw Material, they source both long staple fibers and short staple fibers from Andra Pradesh,

Rajasthan,Punjab,Gujarat and imports from Pakistan. Certain prerequisites are considered as to

what kind of cotton fibers are required like Length, Strength, Fineness (micronium per inch),

Uniformity Ratio.

Geeta cotton Co. Pvt. Ltd. (Andhra Pradesh)

Sai Venkata agro industries pvt.ltd(Andhra Pradesh)

Sri Ganganagar Pvt. Ltd. (Rajasthan) etc.


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Spinning Department

Figure 3: Layout Of Spinning Department


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SPINNING PROCESS

(http://www.toyota-industries.com/product/textile/textile/made.html)


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PROCESS FLOW

1.Bales of cotton of various grades are moved from the WAREHOUSE to the BALE OPENINGroom.

2. Selected bales are opened and placed in position beside the BREAKING and OPENING

machine. This is actually a line of machines, working as a unit, that tear apart and partially clean

matted, compressed, and baled cotton. The result is small loose bunches of cotton.

3. The cotton is then placed into the BLENDING MACHINE. This is a group of devices that are

synchronized to proportion definite amounts of various grades of cotton which are to be blended

together.

4. At this time, matted cotton and waste yarn salvaged from operations in the mill are placed into

the WASTE MACHINE. This machine beats, pulls apart, and fluffs up waste cotton to prepare it

for re-use.

5. Cotton from both the BLENDING MACHINE and the WASTE MACHINE is fed into the

BREAKER PICKER. In this unit the raw cotton is partially cleaned by beating and fluffing and

then fed into the FINISHER PICKER.

6. The FINISHER PICKER receives partially cleaned cotton in the form of LAP from the

BREAKER PICKER and completes the cleaning and fluffing process. LAP is a general term

used to designate wide sheets of loosely matted cotton.

7. The cotton is next processed by a CARDING MACHINE, where dirt and short fibers are

removed, other fibers are laid parallel and formed into a ropelike strand called a SLIVER. The

SLIVER is deposited in large cylindrical containers called CANS.

8. Subsequent processing depends on whether better grade (combed) yarn, or lower grade

(carded) yarn is desired. For the lower grade, processig continues at the DRAWING FRAME

(see step 12 below)

9. For better grade yarn, the SLIVER is first processed by the SLIVER LAPPING MACHINE,

which draws and combines several strands of SLIVER into a sheet of LAP and winds it on aspool ready for RIBBON LAPPING or COMBING.

10. The LAP is processed by a RIBBON LAPPING MACHINE which draws and combines

several rolls of LAP into one roll of RIBBON LAP, straightening the fibers slightly and making

the lap more uniform in weight and texture, ready for feeding to a COMBING MACHINE.

RIBBON LAP is a roll of closely matted cotton fibers, about 10 inches wide.


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11. COMBING is the process of extracting fibers below a predetermined length and removing

any remaining dirt. Output of the COMBING MACHINE is deposited in CANS.

12. The cotton is next processed by the DRAWING FRAME. It is a machine in which several

strands of SLIVER are combined into one strand and DRAWN OUT so that the combined

strands approximate the weight and size of any one of the original strands. The term DRAWN

OUT means to stretch a strand of cotton, usually by running the strand between several pairs of

rollers, each pair turning faster than the pair before it.

13. The SLUBBING MACHINE then draws out strands of SLIVER and twists them together

loosely in order to give the strands (now called ROVING) sufficient strength to withstand

subsequent operations.

14. The ROVING is processed by the FLY FRAME. This machine progressively combines two

strands of partially processed ROVING into one, draws out the combined strands until they are

of prescribed weight, and twists them loosely in order to give them sufficient strength to

withstand subsequent operations.

(http://www.glencoenc.com/library/flow.html)

BLOW ROOM

Blow room is the starting of the spinning operation where the fiber is opened, cleaned, mixed

and evened.

The whole machine is subject to suction and the dust is collected in special filters; the material,

on the other hand, undergoing contemporaneously, the rotary action of the cylinder and suction

along the operating width, effects a helical movement around the drum and exits from the side

opposite to that on which it entered. It is then transferred by the delivery hopper into the

transportation conduit.

OBJECTIVESOFBLOWROOM:

1. To open the compressed bales of fibers

2. Remove dirt and dust, broken leaf, seed particles or any other foreign impurities from the

fibers

3. To transfer the opened and cleaned fibers into a sheet form of definite width uniform weight

per unit length which is called lap.


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4. To roll the lap of predetermined length into a cylindrical shape around a lap pin.

5. To transfer the lap from the lap pin to a lap rod to a suitable and feed it to the subsequent m/c

(carding).

Figure 4:Blow Room Line

(http://www.truetzschler-spinning.com/en/products/blow-room/technical-highlights-blow-room/)

BLOW ROOM LINE

1. Blendomat (bale opener and cotton plucker)

2. GBR(cotton opener)

3. AFC(Axi flow cleaner)

4. MPM(Multiplex mixer)

5. ASTA(heavy particle cleaner)

6. Dustex(Micro dust cleaner)


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BLENDING(BDTBLENDOMAT)

Bale Specification

1 Bales : 165-170 kgs

Table 3: Bale Specification

Blending: It is meant as the intermingling of different kinds of fibers or different grade of same

fibers e.g. polyester & cotton, Viscose & cotton.

Blending of fiber material is an essential preliminary in the production of a yarn.

Fibers can be blended at various stages of the process. These possibilities should

always be fully exploited, for example, by transverse doubling.

However, the starting process is one of the most important stages for blending,

since the components are still separate and therefore can be metered exactly and

without dependence upon random effects.

A well-assembled bale layout and even (and as far as possible, simultaneous)

extraction of fibers from all bales is therefore of paramount importance.

Objectives of mixing or blending

Economy

Processing performance

Functional properties

Place of Origin: GermanyBrand Name Trutzschler

Model Number: Blendomat BDT 019

Type BLENDOMAT

Depth (Limit) 93-1789 Metres

The machine takes up 50-60 cotton bales (approx.) in 8.5 hours. Each cotton bale weight 165

kgs.

Machine main supply : 3Ph/Ac, 415V, 50Hz.

Control circuit : 1Ph/Ac, 24V, 50Hz

Table 4: BLOW ROOM MACHINE SPECIFICATION (BLENDOMAT BDT019)


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GBR

Here the cottons are fed for homogenous mixtures and for removing dirts.MPM-8it has got 8

chambers. Generally used for homogenous mixture of fibers like while harvesting some cottonare from matured plants and some are not. So that it will affect the fabric. So, after homogenous

mixing all will be the same.

Opening

Steps :

cottons are passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder. The rapidly whirling beater blades

take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash, and loosen up the mass.

The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air is sucked out of them by fan.

This draws the cotton from beater and condenses it on the surface of the screen rolls from

which it is taken and passed on by the small rolls.

Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes cotton to another type

of beater. From beater the cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried to picker.

GBR cotton opener- opens about 400 kg/hr.

Figure 5: BLOW ROOM GBR MACHINE(ARVIND ,SANTEJ UNIT)


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AXI FLOW CLEANER

CLEANING

Cotton contains up to 18% trash in most cases. To clean the material it is unavoidable to

remove as much fiber as much waste.

Therefore it is necessary to measure the amount of the waste removed and its

composition. As it is of high importance also called cleaning efficiency.

Cotton moves from GBR to Axiflow cleaner by suction and impurities fall below in a bin

under the gravitational pull. Axiflow cleaner is fitted with beaters.

Objective of AFC is separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton.

The opened up mass of fiber rotates around two cleaning rollers (beaters) with cylinder

steel pins which beat the fiber material, allowing the coarse particles to be separated.

Machine used in Arvind Mills ,santej unit :

Machine make: Trutzschler (Germany)

Model: 052-2502

Pressure: 50-75 bar

Major parts: Two metallic perforated cylinders and waste collector

Speed range

Of beaters : 400-600 rpm

Table 5: AXI FLOW CLEANER MACHINE SPECIFICATION

MPMMULTIPLE MIXER-

Mixing

. This sucks cotton from axi flow cleaner and pumps to ASTA meanwhile sorting the cotton

fibers .Generally used for homogenous mixture of fibers. Fitted with eight beaters.


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Machine used for Mixing in Arvind Mills ,santej unit:

Machine: Trutzschler

Model: 10236

Motor speed: 1750 rpm

Opening rolls speed: 800-850 m/min

Number of chambers: 10

Output: 30-36%

Pressure: 350 bar

Major parts: This machine consists of material feed, reserve

tank, reserve tank flaps, optical sensor delivery,

rollers, and material suction funnel.

Table 6: MPM MULTIPLE MIXER MACHINE SPECIFICATION

ASTA:

Objective of ASTA is Heavy trash separation from cotton. The air and material enters the

separation tank in a stream via upper channel and hit baffle plates. Heavy particles are removed

away from the lighter fibers by negative acceleration and the force of gravity. The lower channel

generates air stream in the area of baffle plates, which guides the fibers to the outlet.

Machine used in Arvind Mills ,santej unit:

Machine brand : TRUTZSCHLER (GERMANY)

Model no. ASTA 800Principle : Principle of aerodynamics

Table 7: ASTA MACHINE SPECIFICATION

DUSTEX:

Dust removal is not an easy operation since the dust particles are completely enclosed in

the flocks & hence are back during suction. The suction units remove 64% dust.

Dust removal in the blow room happens by air suctioning only, either between the

machines, e.g. by dust cages, dust extractors, etc., or within the machine by normal air

separation.

Every blow room machine must be capable of extracting dust, so that special dedusting

machines should be needed.

The efficiency depends not only on the devices but also on the size of the flocks. The

smaller the flocks, the higher is the efficiency.


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Machine brand: TRUTZSCHLER(GERMANY)

Model no.: CVT-4 1600No. of machines: 3

Cleaning efficiency: 64%

Table 8: DUSTEX MACHINE SPECIFICATION

CARDING

Carding is the heart of the entire spinning process and as such requires utmost care. Next to blow

room, carding is the only major stage for cleaning cotton.

Figure 6:D/F B/W CARDED AND UNCARDED YARNSFigure 7: CARDING PROCESS

OBJECTIVESOFCARDING:

To open the tuft of fibers

To make the fiber parallel & straight

To remove remaining trash particles

To remove short fibers

To remove naps

To produce a rove like fiber called sliver, which is uniform in per unit length.

Carding is a mechanical process that breaks up locks and unorganised clumps of fibre and

then aligns the individual fibres so that they are more or less parallel with each other.

Carding can also be used to create blends of different fibres or different colours.

Carding is the process of removing impurities from fibers and producing a carded sliver

of parallelized and straightened fibers.


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Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed,

the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be straightened.

The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel Carding.

The work is done by carding machine.

MAIN ACTIONS OF CARDING MACHINE

1. Action between fee roller & taker in

2. Action between taker in and cylinder

3. Action between cylinder and flat

4. Action between cylinder and doffer.


Number of machines: 14

Machine brand: Trutzschler (Germany)

Model: DK 70

Cylinder speed: 450-500 rpm

Doffer speed: 25-30 rpm

Cylinder diameter: 1290 mm

Doffer diameter: 500 mm

Can diameter: 24

Can height: 42

Temperature: 33.3 degree Celsius

Production: 25 kg/hr.

Rate of feed: 500gm/min

Table 9:CARDING MACHINE SPECIFICATION

DRAWING

In the spinning process, the next important stage in the cotton process is draw frame. By carding

the entangled mass of fibers is well opened so that every fiber becomes quite free. Theseindividual fibers lie criss-cross in the web. These fibers require be straightening and parallelizing

to the possible extent.

OBJECTIVE OF DRAWING:

To straightened the fibers in theslivers.

To make them lie in a manner parallel to their neighbors and to the sliver axis.


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To improve the uniformity or evenness of the slivers.

Pre draw frame:

8 carded slivers are fed into the drawing machine where they are combined and drawn into a

single sliver using some tension. The sliver is made more uniform in terms of mass per unit

length, parallel and improved. A relative humidity of 51-53% and temperature of 33-35% are

maintained on the floor. Breaker sliver is the output.

Unilap:

Here 24-26 breaker slivers are combined to form a single lap sheet. A single roll of lap weighs is

1 kg. Comber lap emerges out of this machine.

Machine used in Arvind ,santej unit: RIETER UNILAP E 30.

No. of machine: 2

Comber:

The laps are fed into the system where they are combed by rollers with teeth. 8 laps are

combined to form 1 combed sliver.

The following quality of fibers can only be obtained by combing

Clean finer fiber

Uniformity in length of fiber Absence of nap

More parallel arrangement of fibers

Straight fibers


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The sequence of operation in a comber is as follows:

1. Feeding of the lap by feed roller

2. The fed lap is gripped by the nipper

3. The gripped lap is combed by circular comb

4. The detaching roller grips the combed lap and moves forward

5. While the detaching roller delivers the material, top comb comes into action to further clean

the lap. The short fibres are removed.

6. While going back, nipper opens and receives a new bit of lap. Thus, nipper holds the material

while the comb moves to and fro. It pulls the material. There are brushes that clean the circular

comb.

Machine used in Arvind ,santej unit: RIETER E 60.

No. of machine: 15

Post draw frame:

8 combed slivers are further combined, parallelized and the sliver quality is improved by

drawing. The mass/ length is reduced. These are called finished sliver.

Machine used in Arvind ,santej unit: RIETER RSB951

No. of machine: 7

ROVING

The main objective of roving frame is given below:-

Attenuation- Drafting the draw frame sliver into roving.

Twisting-To inserts the twist into the roving.

Winding-Winding the twisting roving on bobbin.


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SPEED FRAME

Slivers are made into roving bobbins by imparting a slight twist and drawing under tension

through roller pairs. The bobbins are placed one by one in rows and the armed flyer of the

machine is lowered to the level of a black ring on it. 2 rounds of roving are wound to begin with,and the guide on the arm carries it all around the bobbin thus winding it parallely. A much finer

thread of fibers are produced.


Figure 8:Speed Frame LF1400A MACHINEIMAGE SOURCE: (ARVIND ,SANTEJ UNIT)

Machine brand: Lakshmi

Model no. Lakshmi LF1400A

Speed up to: 1400rpmNo of machines: 13

Delivery speed up to: 40 mts/min

Number of spindles 72-144

Table 10: SPEED FRAME MACHINE SPECIFICATION

RING FRAME:

This is the process of formation of yarn. Roving is spun into the yarn of desired count by im-

parting twist. 4 pairs of rollers with and without groves play the drawing action thus reducing the

mass/length and forming yarn. These are wound on smaller spindles.



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Figure 9:Ring Frame LR60IMAGE SOURCE: (ARVIND ,SANTEJ UNIT)

Machine brand: Lakshmi

Model no. Lakshmi LR60/AXL

Speed up to: 1600rpm

No of machines: 14

Delivery speed up to: 30 mts/min

Number of spindles 200-500

Table 11:RING FRAME MACHINE SPECIFICATION

RANDOM WINDING/CONE WINDING:

Yarns from the bobbin are transferred to bigger packages called cone on simple cone winder/

mach winder or Autoconer. Bobbins placed in magazine are moved through channels and

detected for loose ends. Those with free end are transported further and attached to the loose end

present in the cone continuing the winding process. Then they are just spliced with each other

thus avoiding knotting to get better efficiency in weaving. The bobbins when empty are tracked

back to be collected by vacuum suction and dropped into a bin.


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Figure 10: CONE WINDINGIMAGE SOURCE: (ARVIND ,SANTEJ UNIT)

ASSEMBLY WINDING:

Here, 2 cones are used to double the yarn. There is no twist, but only parallel winding of 2 or

more yarns for ply and wound on cheese.

Figure 11: ASSEMBLY WINDINGIMAGE SOURCE: (ARVIND ,SANTEJ UNIT)

TFO:

The two for one twist machine is for twisting the plied yarn and produces bigger cones. To

prevent sloughing off, here, a guide takes the yarn around the package forming a firm setting. A

cone weighs up to 1.8 kg. Z/Z twist is given.

SINGEING:

The yarns are made to pass through flames at fixed temperature, pressure and maintaining otherspecifications. This is done to remove loose fibers and short hairs that cause disturbance in the

smoothness of the yarn. CNG is used as fuel and singed yarn is obtained as output.2 machines

are currently being employed now to solve the working efficiency of the factory.


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List of testing instrument and their functions

Instrument To check

HVI (High Volume Instrument)(USTER HVI 100)

Length of raw materialStrenght of raw material

Elongation of raw material

Color value of raw material

AFIS PRO

(USTERAFIS PRO 2)

Length of fiber from bale and sliver

Short fiber content of bale and sliver

Neps content of fibers from bale and sliver

MDTA(Micro Dust Trash Analyzer) Trash content in raw material

UT5( Uster Tester5)

Mass variation of sliver,roving and yarn

Imperfection of ring bobbin and cone

Hairiness of ring bobbin and cone

USER ZWEIGLE HL 400

To check the number of hairs of yarn in

different length zone

TENSOJET

Single yarn strenght of yarn

Elongation of yarn

CLASSIMAT 5

(USTER CLASSIMAT 5)

To classify yarn faults of ring yarn and cone

AUTOSORTER To check count of sliver ,roving and yarn

WARP BLOCK To prepare sliver and roving for count

checkingWARP REEL To prepare yarn for count checking

STRENGHT TESTER To check strenght of ring yarn and cone

TPI TESTER To check the TPI of single and double yarn

Table 12: TESTING INSTRUMENT AND THEIR FUNCTIONS(ARVINDS MILLS)

WEAVING DEPARTMENT


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Weaving is interlacement of warp with weft thread. In weaving, the warp thread and weft yarn are

crossed over one another in a set method in order to weave the required type of fabric. A machine

designed to accomplish this task is called a loom. First, the warp thread and weft yarn are prepared

so that they can be set into the loom.

Source: (http://www.toyota-industries.com/product/textile/textile/made.html)

WEAVINGPREPARATION

Yarn is the basic building in weaving. Therefore, after yarn manufacturing, the next successive

step should be to weave the yarn into a fabric. However, in practice, the condition of yarn

produced on the spinning machine is not always good enough to be used directly for fabric

formation. Package Size, yarn surface characteristics, and other factors make it necessary for

both filling yarn and warp yarn to be further processed for efficient fabric formation. These

preparatory processes are called weaving preparation.

Warp and filling yarns are subjected to different conditions and requirements during weaving.

Therefore, the preparation of warp and weft yarns is different. Warp yarn is subjected to higher

stress which require extra preparation. Depending upon the weaving methods, the filling yarns

may not be prepared at all, but, rather taken straight off the spinning process and transported to

the weaving process. However, the ring- spun yarns have to go through a winding process for

several reasons. The processes used to prepare yarns for weaving depend on yarn type as well.

The warp yarn preparation is more demanding and complicated than the weft yarn

preparation. Each spot in the warp yarn must undergo several thousand cycles of various

stresses applied by the weaving machine. Weaving stresses include dynamic

tension/contraction, rotation (twist/untwist) and clinging of hairs. Additionally, there are


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metal- to yarn and yarn-to yarn flexing and metal-to- yarn and yarn-to-yarn abrasion

stresses.

Output of the spinning machinery is spindles of short-length yarns. These spindles cannot

be used in the next production process because they are very small lengths, because there

is not enough yarn on the spindle and because its size is not suitable for weaving

processes. Winding produces a yarn package that is suitable for further processing.

Lycra is used to increase the elasticity of the fiber. Filament is used in the fiber which is

exported to countries where the level of sweating is lower as compared to Indian

condition where majorly cotton is used for the same reason.

The weaving department has the distinction of being the largest at Arvind Mills and

exports close to 95% of its manufactured fabric. Discussing the denim fabric, the core

competence of AM, original denim is composed of 100% cotton but with a view to bring

in variations to the material in consonance with the emerging trends in the market,

various natural fibers like linen and synthetic fibers like filament, lycra, polyester are

added to cotton. While weaving such mixed fabric, the core is made of the addend andoriginal cotton is wound around it. Yarn woven vertically is called warp while that woven

laterally is termed as weft. For weaving purposes a cotton count ranging from 5 to 20 is

generally used.


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YARNDYEING

Figure 13 : process flow chart of yarn dyeing

SOFT WINDING BATCHING YARN DYEING

HYDROEXTRACTORDRYERREWINDING

Weft Yarn Preparation Warp Yarn Preparation

Winding Winding

Warping

Slashing

Drawing-in or tying-in

Weaving

Figure 12 The flowchart of major preparation processes for fill ing the warp yarns


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SOFT WINDING: Yarns are transferred from paper cones to plastic tubes or steel tubes

(package dyeing) or beams (beam dyeing).

BATCHING: Yarns are batched according to their count, lot, yarn type and others. A batch card

is formed which contained the essential information of that batch.

DYEING: The yarn for spinning room is in form of spinning bobbins. For dyeing purposes, it

has to be packed in

Spring tubes (which can be compressed) or plastic tubes. These packages are named

packages, which are then sent for dyeing

Beams are prepared which are then sent for yarn beam dyeing.

SOFT PACKAGES

The requirements that a yarn dye package has to meet can be split into 2 major aspects

Demands from dyeing.

Demands from downstream processes and quality control.

The Recipe includes:

Pretreatment- Scouring

1. Sequestering/ Chelating agent

2. De-aerating cum wetting agent

3. Alkali-caustic/ soda ash

Pretreatment- Bleaching

1. Hydrogen peroxide

2. Stabilizer for peroxide Acid for neutralization

Dyeing- Reactive

1. Color (HE/ME)

2. Salt (for exhaustion)

3. Soda ash (for fiation)

4. Leveling agent

Dyeing- Vat

1. Color

2. Sodium hydro sulphite (reducing agent)

3. Caustic (to make vat soluble in water)

4. H2O2 (oxidizing agent)


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Procedure

BLEACHING: LS, SPLF, STCP and caustic are taken at room temperature and raised to50 C. it is stirred for 5 min in mixing vessel and brought to the dyeing chamber. H2O2 is

added at 95 C and stirred for 30 min. it is drained of chemicals.

WASHING: H2O2 and alkali are removed by treatment with hot water at 95 C for 10

minutes. It is washed in cold water for 2 minutes. The peroxide and alkali are neutralized

with acetic acid and 10L.

DYEING: Fresh hot water is taken in the dyeing chamber, LSER and SPLF (wetting

agent) are added to soften the water. This is stirred for 10 minutes and salt added. Again

stirring happens. The color is added fially and boiled at 80 C for 30 minutes. The liquor issent back to mixing vessel where soda ash is added for fiation. It is sent to the dyeing

chamber and treated at 80 C for 45 minutes. The solution is drained and material is

washed for 10 minutes at 80 C. IN OUT for reactive dyes and IN OUT and OUT IN for

vat dyes.

SOAPING: ADW is added to wash off extra dyes. This also reduces the dyes thus fiing

them permanently. Th procedure is for 20 minutes at 95C. Washing with fresh water at

80 C for 10 minutes is done. Cold wash is carried out after this followed by rinsing and

drying. Shade matching: Once the yarn is dried it is sent for shade matching in computer.

Drying: If the yarn matches, YL is added for lighter shade and Supra for darker shade are

added for softening and fiing. Then the package goes to RF machine for drying which

takes

DYEING RELATED REQUIREMENTS:

These include the basic physical issues relating to the fundamental requirement of each and

every fiber in the dye package to be exposed to an equal amount of dye liquor over an equal

length of time, and, thus, we require:

Uniform liquor flow within a package Uniform liquor between packages (within batch)

Uniform liquor flow between packages (batch-to-batch)

In other words, each and every yarn dye package has to conform to a prescribed density and this

density has to be uniform from inside to outside and from tip to toe of package. Similarly,

packages of identical density and uniformity have to be produced on any spindle of a winding

machine at any given time, meaning total reproducibility.


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The density of spun yarn dye packages recommend by leading dyeing vessel manufacturers is:

For Cotton: 420 g/l

For Cotton/ Polyester blend: 460 g/l

Since such packages, as compared with those intended for use in warping creels or knitting

creels, feel spongier, they are universally referred to as soft packages.

Apart from yarn dyeing these packages must also conform to certain post-dyeing requirements,

thus,

Optimum unwinding properties

Resistance of package to handling, are equally important aspects of soft package winding.

After dyeing, the yarn will be used in either weaving or knitting, and, thus has to be unwound forfurther processing. Therefore, no tension variation or disturbed yarn layers must be present, as

these defects are the major source of yarn hairiness or breakages.

In Arvind Mills

There are 37 workers and the production per day is around 14 tons.

Types of cones: - Paper Plastic Tube(PPT), use and throw(135-140 g)

- Spring tube- stainless steel-reusable(165 g)

Package Size: 1.2 kg.

These soft packages are used for dyeing checks and stripes.

BEAMS FOR BEAM DYEING

Besides the yarn being wound in the form of soft packages, it is also wound on beams for beam

dyeing purpose. Beam dyeing is mainly carried out if we want one color in the warp direction of

the fabric. Spinning bobbins are placed on creels, and the yarn from each bobbin is then collected

and sent to the machine, where it is wound on cylinders.


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WORKING PRINCIPLE OF BEAM DYEING MACHINES

The working principle is same as that of HTHP yarn dyeing machines. The process of beam

dyeing is as follows,

1. The yarn in open width is rolled on to a perforated beam.

2. The beam then subsequently inserted into a dyeing vessel.

3. The machine is closed and pressurized.

4. The dye liquor is circulated in to out and out to in directions, under pressure and

temperature is employed as per the process requirement.

5. The chemicals and auxiliary are injected as per requirement of the process.

In Arvind Mills

Machine Specifications

Beam Dyeing Route 85% efficiency

400-500 m/hr. speed

30 kg/ beam- max. capacity (1160 m.)

Faller wire stop motion device

Figure 14 Beam dyeing route machine specification

Per shift- 24 beams

The packages were mounted on a creel. Each creel has about 700- grey packages. One

and a half hours are required to change the creel.

A creel has 700 cones. Yarn from each cone passes through a spring before passing

through the drop wires. These springs are set to a particular tension which determines

the speed and tension at which he cheese will unwind.

Faller wire stop motion mechanism is as follows: Creel has drop wires (hook shaped),

which drop as a yarn passing through it breaks. A sensor is attached to the Dyeing

Beam stops the machine as soon as it senses a wire drop.

An indicator attached to the side of the rod (to which drop wires are attached), is

lighted, thereby indicating the point where yarn breakage occurs.

There are 41 machines; it takes 6.5 hours in beam dyeing.

HYDROEXTRACTOR AND DRYER: Excess water of the dyed yarn is removed. Hydro-

extracting without deformation of bobbins and cones provides better results in drying and

rewinding. Therefore the overall system hydro-extractingdryingrewinding system increases

efficiency and quality.


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WINDING

Yarn packages come from the dyeing unit in the form of packages winded in spring or PP tube.

They cant be directly used for warping or for weft yarn on the looms. So the weaving

department is equipped with winding machines and autoconers. These machines are also used torecycle the left over cone packages. Packages that have been used for warping or as weft on the

looms, (and are left with some yarn on them) are collected and converted to bigger packages so

they can be used again.

In the process, the yarn from a number of ring frame bobbins or hanks is put in a long

continuous length on to bigger packages such as Warpers bobbin, cone or cheese. During this

process, the objectionable faults are removed from yarn. For the use of dyed yarn, ring frame

bobbins may be taken to reeling process to obtain hanks. These hanks are dyed & then sent to

winding. The yarn is dyed in cone/cheese form also. Thus, winding packages (warpers bobbin,

corn or cheese) are taken to next process of warping i.e. Direct Warping or Sectional Warping.

There are 80 workers in this department.

OBJECTIVES OF WINDING:

Scanning and faults removing: Electric Scanners (uster) are used for checking and

elimination of yarn faults during winding process. This process is called Usterization of

yarn. Such faults are called scan-cuts.

Splicing of broken or cut yarn:Auto splicing is done for broken yarn pieces toeliminate yarn knots and bad piecing.

Bigger and quality package:Conversion of yarn from small ring bobbins to bigger yarn

cones of different international standard or as per requirement of customer. During

achieving above objectives or making of winding cones some faults are created during

the process. These faults need to be controlled through monitoring and continuous study.

Most of the winding faults are very dangerous for the next subsequent process which can

be warping or knitting or doubling. We can face complains from customer of breakage of

yarn during unwinding process.


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HOW QUALITY IS MAINTAINED IN ARVIND MILLS?

Following point are considered from quality point of view:

Winding speed should be 1200 meter per minute for getting good quality.

For getting good quality, yarn fault clearers device setting should be as close as possible

in order to eliminate the disturbing yarn faults.

In order to get good quality of yarn count channel setting should be less than 7%.

Cone which we prepare for weaving purpose should have minimum fault for getting good

quality, especially in the long thin places and long thick places.

For getting good quality yarn, splice strength must be 75% more than of the yarn

strength.

Splice appearance should be good. Splice device should be checked twice in a week.

To get better efficiency, cone weight should be 1.8 to 2.4.

Yarn winding tension must not be high during winding. If we will keep it high then

tensile properties will be affected such as elongation and tenacity.

If waxing attachment is below the clearers, the clearers should be clean at least once in a

day.

Properly formed packages of defect-free spun- yarn are an even more critical factor. Package

consideration include condition of the passage core, the proper provision of yarn transfer tails;

properly formed splices or knots; elimination of internal defects such as slubs, sloughs, tangles,

wild yarn, scuffs, etc.; and elimination of external defects such as cobwebs, abrasion, poor

package shape or build, proper density (hardness) and unwind stability.

PRECISION WINDING:

By precision winding successive coils of yarn are laid close together in a parallel or near parallel

manner. By this process it is possible to produce very dense package with maximum amount of

yarn stored in a given volume.

Features:

Package are wound with a reciprocating traverse

Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages

Package contains more yarn

Package is less stable

The package is hard and compact


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The package is dense

Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of unwinding is hard

The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner.

NON PRECISION WINDING

By this type of winding the package is formed by a single thread which is laid on the package at

appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another and give stability to the package. The

packages formed by this type of winding are less dense but is more stable.

Features:

Only one coil is used to make this packages

Cross winding technique is used

The package density is low

Minimum number of yarn is wound The package formed is soft and less compact

The stability is high

Flanges are not required

The rate of unwinding is high and the process is easy

The packages formed have low density

FOR WINDING

Make of the Machine No. Of heads No. Of Machines

Muratec Machconer No.7 VSS 60 4

Schlafhorst Autoconer 238 50 5

Muratec Machconer No.7 50 12

Oerlikon Schlafhorst Autoconer X5 60 8

Table 13: Machines for winding


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Figure 15: Winding Data Sheet

WARPING

Warping is transferring many yarns from creel of single-end package forming parallel sheet of

yarn wound on to be a beam or section beam. Warping machines can process all type of

materials including coarse and fine filament and staple yarns, monofilament, text

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