arvind santej internship report
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NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION
TECHNOLOGY,GANDHINAGAR
2015 Textile InternshipReport
Arvind Santej
Submitted To-Pranav Vora
Submitted By-
Sunidhi Kumari
Nivedita KumariRavish Khan
DFT-V
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Acknowledgement
I would like to thank Arvind, Santej unit for giving me the opportunity
to undergo training in the textile department and for extending theirsupport towards us all throughout our internship
I would also like to thank NIFT, Gandhinagar for giving us this
opportunity and facilitating our internship
It was a great learning experience throughout to see one of the most well
planned and advanced textile units. We take the opportunity to thank all
the people who guided us through the entire process and made our
training a success by sharing their knowledge.I would like to thank Subhanish Malhotra, Chief Manager H.R. atArvind, without whose support and guidance the internship couldnt
have been completed satisfactorily.
I am also grateful to our College mentor Mr. Pranav Vora for guiding us
at every stage and making this project a success.
Sunidhi Kumari
Nivedita Kumari
Ravish Khan
DFT-V
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ContentsAcknowledgement ........................................................................................................................................ 2
OVERVIEW OF INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY .................................................................................................... 8
ABOUT THE COMPANY- ARVIND LIMITED .................................................................................................... 9
TIMELINE ..................................................................................................................................................... 12
COMPANYS VISION .................................................................................................................................... 14
DIVISIONS .................................................................................................................................................... 15
Woven Fabrics ............................................................................................................................................ 15
SHIRTING AND BOTTOM WEIGHTS ......................................................................................................... 15
DENIMS ................................................................................................................................................... 16
KHAKI .................................................................................................................................................... 17
VOILES ..................................................................................................................................................... 17
KNITS FABRICS ....................................................................................................................................... 18
Raw Material Store Room ........................................................................................................................... 22
Types of cotton Arvind Mills use: ............................................................................................................... 23
1. Pakistan Cotton ................................................................................................................................... 23
2. J34 SG .................................................................................................................................................. 23
3. Shankar-6 Gujarat cotton .................................................................................................................... 23
4. Organic cotton .................................................................................................................................... 23
SPINNING PROCESS ..................................................................................................................................... 25
PROCESS FLOW ........................................................................................................................................... 26
BLOW ROOM ............................................................................................................................................... 27
OBJECTIVES OF BLOWROOM: ................................................................................................................. 27
BLENDING (BDT Blendomat) ................................................................................................................... 29
GBR .......................................................................................................................................................... 30
AXI Flow Cleaner .................................................................................................................................... 31
MPM multiple mixer- .............................................................................................................................. 31
ASTA: ....................................................................................................................................................... 32
DUSTEX: ................................................................................................................................................... 32
CARDING: ................................................................................................................................................ 33
DRAWING ................................................................................................................................................ 34
ROVING ....................................................................................................................................................... 36
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Speed frame ............................................................................................................................................ 37
Ring frame: .............................................................................................................................................. 37
Random winding/ cone winding: ................................................................................................................ 38
Assembly winding: .................................................................................................................................. 39
TFO: ......................................................................................................................................................... 39
Singeing: .................................................................................................................................................. 39
List of testing instrument and their functions ............................................................................................ 40
WEAVING DEPARTMENT ............................................................................................................................. 40
WEAVING PREPARATION ................................................................................................................. 41
YARN DYEING .......................................................................................................................................... 43
The Recipe includes: ........................................................................................................................... 44
Procedure ............................................................................................................................................ 45
Dyeing related requirements: ................................................................................................................. 45
Beams for Beam dyeing .......................................................................................................................... 46
WINDING ................................................................................................................................................. 48
OBJECTIVES OF WINDING: .................................................................................................................. 48
HOW QUALITY IS MAINTAINED IN ARVIND MILLS? ............................................................................ 49
PRECISION WINDING: ......................................................................................................................... 49
NON PRECISION WINDING .................................................................................................................. 50
FOR WINDING ............................................................................................................................................. 50
WARPING ................................................................................................................................................ 51
(DIRECT WARPING OR BEAM WARPING) ............................................................................................ 52
(SECTIONAL WARPING) ....................................................................................................................... 54
Causes of yarn breakage in warping: .................................................................................................. 56
WARPING MACHINES IN SHIRTING DIVISION OF ARVIND .................................................................. 58
SIZING ...................................................................................................................................................... 59
Properties of Size Ingredients: ............................................................................................................ 59
The Important Features to be remembered During Sizing: ................................................................ 60
Effects of Sizing on Yarn: ..................................................................................................................... 60
Sizing Ingredients- ............................................................................................................................... 60
Sizing Material & Chemical Used: ....................................................................................................... 61
Typical sizing recipe- ........................................................................................................................... 61
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DRAWING-IN (REEDING) ......................................................................................................................... 63
PROCEDURE: ....................................................................................................................................... 63
FOR REMOVAL OF DEFECTS FROM WARP .............................................................................................. 64
WEAVING MECHANISM .......................................................................................................................... 64
PRIMARY MOTION .............................................................................................................................. 64
Shedding-Positive Electronic Dobby ................................................................................................... 64
Picking-Air-Jet Insertion ...................................................................................................................... 65
Picking- Double Rapier System ........................................................................................................... 65
Beating- Up ......................................................................................................................................... 65
SECONDARY MOTION ......................................................................................................................... 65
Let-Off ................................................................................................................................................. 66
Take-Up ............................................................................................................................................... 66
Weft Selection or Patterning .............................................................................................................. 66
ANCILLARY MOTION ................................................................................................................................ 66
PROCESSING ................................................................................................................................................ 67
SINGEING: ................................................................................................................................................... 67
DESIZING ..................................................................................................................................................... 67
Different methods of Desizing: ............................................................................................................... 68
1. Enzymatic desizing .............................................................................................................................. 68
The common components of an enzymatic desizing bath are as follows: ......................................... 68
Advantages of Enzymatic desizing ...................................................................................................... 68
Disadvantages: .................................................................................................................................... 69
2.Oxidative desizing ................................................................................................................................ 69
Two important oxidative desizing processes are: ............................................................................... 69
The advantages offered by oxidative desizing are .............................................................................. 69
SCOURING ................................................................................................................................................... 69
Objectives of Scouring: ........................................................................................................................... 70
Scouring process depends on: ................................................................................................................ 70
Description and Working Principle of Scouring Process: ........................................................................ 70
Precaution: .............................................................................................................................................. 70
BLEACHING .................................................................................................................................................. 71
DYEING AND PRINTING ............................................................................................................................... 71
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PRINTING ..................................................................................................................................................... 73
ROTARY-SCREEN PRINTING ......................................................................................................................... 73
Finishing techniques used in Arvind mills are: ............................................................................................ 76
Microsanding finish ................................................................................................................................. 77
SANFORIZING: Shrinkage CONTROL FINISH ............................................................................................ 78
MERCERIZING .......................................................................................................................................... 80
Effect of Mercerization - ..................................................................................................................... 80
Calendering finish ................................................................................................................................... 81
Stentering finish ...................................................................................................................................... 82
Softening airo finish ................................................................................................................................ 84
Technical advancements in finishing ...................................................................................................... 84
PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL DEPARTMENT ............................................................................ 92
COSTING .................................................................................................................................................. 94
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT .......................................................................................................... 94
COTTON LABORTARY: ............................................................................................................................. 95
PHYSICAL TESTING LABORTARY .............................................................................................................. 96
CHEMICAL TESTING LABORTARY: ........................................................................................................... 96
COLOUR QUEST LABORTARY:.................................................................................................................. 96
CALIBRATION LABORATORY: ................................................................................................................... 97
CHECK POINTS IN GREY FABRIC INSPECTION (ARVIND SHIRTING): ............................................................ 98
PROFORMA OF FABRIC INSPECTION REPORT ( ARVIND SHIRTING) ........................................................ 98
DESIGN DEVELOPMENT AND CONSTRUCTION DEPARTMENT: ................................................................ 100
SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITY ............................................................................................................................ 102
ENVIRONMENTAL INITIATIVES .............................................................................................................. 103
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OBJECTIVES OF INTERNSHIP
The main objectives of the project/internship were:
1. Understanding basic principles of production of textiles.
2. In depth study and understanding of all process involved in textile production and the
machinery and equipment used.
3. Knowledge about the company.
4. Understanding the companys process flow in production
5. Study the work environment and practices followed for textile production.
The project is based on two weeks (i.e., May 25, 2015 to June 6, 2015) internship in
Arvind Mills- Shirting Division, Santej (Gandhinagar) unit. It covers the information
and learning experiences related to manufacturing shirting fabrics and the the
processes involved are:
Spinning
Dyeing
Weaving
Finishing
Testing
Industry Mentor- MR. SUBHANISH MALHOTARA (Chief Manager HR)
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OVERVIEW OF INDIAN TEXTILE INDUSTRY
The textile industry has been gradually re-located from the developed to the developing
countries, over the last few decades. This phenomenon has increased the opportunity fordeveloping countries to boost manufacturing and trade in textiles. It is highly competitive and its
prospects are continuously increasing.
The Indian textile industry has a significant presence in the economy as well as in the
international textile economy. Its contribution to the Indian economy is manifested in terms of its
contribution to the industrial production, employment generation and foreign exchange earnings.
It contributes 20 percent of industrial production, 9 percent of excise collections, 18 percent of
employment in the industrial sector, nearly 20 percent to the country s total export earning and 4
percent to the Gross Domestic Product. A strong raw material production base, a vast pool of
skilled and unskilled personnel, cheap labour, good export potential and low import content aresome of the salient features of the Indian textile industry. This is a traditional, robust, well-
established industry, enjoying considerable demand in the domestic as well as global markets.
Indias presence in the international market is significant in the areas of
fabrics and yarn as:
India is the largest exporter of yarn in the international market and has a share of 25% in
world cotton yarn exports.
India accounts for 12% of the worlds production of textile fibres and yarn.
In terms of spindleage, the Indian textile industry is ranked second, after China, and
accounts for 23% of the worlds spindle capacity.
Around 6% of global rotor capacity is in India.
The country has the highest loom capacity, including handlooms, with a share of 61% in
world loomage.
India has the potential to increase its textile and apparel share in the world trade from the current
level of 4.5% to 8% and reach US $ 80 by 2020.
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ABOUT THE COMPANY- ARVIND LIMITED
The Arvind Limited is one of the largest textile conglomerates in Asia. Its headquarters is inAhmedabad (Gujarat). It manufactures a range of Shirting, Denims, Knits and Bottom weights
(Khakis) fabrics. The company has a turnover of approximately $ 500 million and is a part of
over 100 years old Lalbhai Group.
Arvind ranks in top three largest Denim producers worldwide with an annual production of over
90 million meters of Denim Fabric and Exports to over 70 countries. It is also one of the largest
producers in Asia of high value cotton shirting fabrics. It has a capacity of around 34 MMPA
(million meters per annum) of yard dyed shirting and piece dyed shirting fabric including
specialty Fine count Indigo yarn dyed and solid Shirting fabric. It produces approximately 20
MMPA of Piece Dyed Khaki's fabrics and around 16 TPD (tones per day) of Knits Fabrics whichis vertically integrated into Knits Garments.
Arvind started with a share capital of 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year 1931. With the aim of
manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind Limited invested in very sophisticated
technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the
few companies in those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to
full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales in the year
1934, three years after establishment were 45.76 lakh and profits were 2.82 lakh.
In the mid 1980s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power loom churning
out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills lost their markets, and were
on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its highest level of profitability. At this
point of time Arvindsmanagement coined a new word for it new strategy Reno Vision. It
simply meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious and that became
the corporate philosophy.
The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvinds markets shifted from
domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods. Cottons were the
largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular priced segments,Reno vision pointed to high quality premium niches. Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export
market for two sections: Denim for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton
shirting and trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was
the third largest producer of Denim in the world.
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In 1997 Arvind set up a state-of-the-art shirting, gabardine and knits facility, the largest of its
kind in India, at Santej, Gandhinagar (Gujarat). With Arvindsconcern for environment a most
modern effluent treatment facility with zero effluent discharge capability was also established.
Arvind entered into exports of garments setting up Shirt factories in Bangalore in 2001. This
modest beginning has quickly grown to a capacity of around 4.50 Million Shirts per annum and
the list of customers includes Gap, Dockers, Next, Esprit,and many others.
Arvind's entry into Jeans/ Pants was delayed due to the tight quota situation in India. It entered
into Jeans Garment exports with its first Jeans factory The Arvind Overseas (Mauritius) Ltd.,
Mauritius, to offer full Garment package to its customers in USA and Europe. This factory which
started in March 2002 was a good stepping stone/ pilot plant and did programs with customers
which included Express, Next, M&S, Lee Cooper, Rocawear and others. With the world moving
into a new Quota Free world, Arvind decided to move the Garment factory to Bangalore, India in
September 2004, to offer its customers more flexibility and better cost effectiveness. Company'scurrent Jeans capacity is around 10 Million Pieces per annum.
Year 2005 was a watershed year for textiles. With the muliti-fiber agreement getting phased out
and the disbanding of quotas, international textile trade was poised for a quantum leap. In the
domestic market too, the rationalizing of the cenvat chain and the growth of the organized retail
industry was likely to make textiles and apparel see an explosive growth.
Arvind has carved out an aggressive strategy to verticalize its current operations by setting up
world-scale garmenting facilities and offering a one-stop shop services, by offering garment
packages to its international and domestic customers. With Lee, Wrangler, Arrow and TommyHilfiger and its own domestic brands of Flying Machine, Newport, Excalibur and Ruf & Tuf,
Arvind is setting its vision of becoming the largest apparel brands company in India. Arvind also
runs a value retail chain, Megamart, which stocks company brands. Arvind feature is that its
enterprises are equipped with highly advanced equipment of a full cycle- from painting the fiber
to the finished product.
With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true Indian
multinational, having chosen to invest strategically, where demand has been high and quality
requirement is being superlative. Arvind has set the pace for changing global customer demands
of textiles and has focused its attention on selected core products. Such a focus has enabled the
company to play a dominant role in the global textile arena. Today, The Arvind Limited is the
flagship company of 30 billion Lalbhai Group.
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Current Chairman and Managing DirectorMR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI
Figure 1: Journey Of Arvind Limited
In 1930, the world suffered a traumatic depression. Companies across the globe began closing
down. In UK and in India, the textile industry in particular, was in trouble. At about this time,
Mahatma Gandhi championed the Swadeshi Movement and at his call, people from all India
began boycotting fine and superfine fabrics, which had so far been imported from England. In
the midst of this depression one family saw opportunity. The Lalbhais reasoned that the demand
for fine and superfine fabrics still existed. And any Indian company that met this demand would
surely prosper. The three brothers, Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and Chimanbhai decided to put up
a mill to produce this superfine fabric and the Arvind Mills (Arvind Limited) was born. The
best technology of that time was acquired at a most attractive price.
Figure 2: Beginning Of Arvind Limited
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TIMELINE
1931 Arvind Limited is set up by three brothers Kasturbhai, Narottambhai and
Chimanbhai Lalbhai with a share capital of 2,525,000 (US$55,000) backed by
state-of-the-art technology of England, with the aim to produce high-end superfinefabric. Products manufactured are dhoties,sarees,mulls, dorias, crepes, shirtings,
bra, panties, coatings, printed lawns & voiles cambrics, twills gaberdine etc.
1934 With sales reaching 45.76 Lakhs, and a profit of almost 3 Lakhs, Arvind
Limited establishes itself amongst the foremost textile units in the country.
1980 Arvind Limited records highest levels of profitability. The new strategy Reno
vision, points at changing the business focus from local to global, towards a high-
quality premium niche market.
1986 An uninterrupted record of not missing out on paying dividend to its
shareholders.
First company to bring globally accepted fabrics Denim, yarn dyed shirting
fabrics and wrinkle free gabardines to India.
1987-88 Arvind enters the export market for Denims with a dual focus - Denim for
leisure and Denim for fashion wear.
An established leader in fine and superfine cotton fabrics in Indian
markets.
1991 Arvind reached 100 million meters of denim per year. Arvind emerges as the third
largest manufacturer of denim in the world.
1992 The Company increased the production of denim cloth by 23,000 tonnes per day
by modernising the plant located at Khatraj of Ankur Textiles.1993 The Company proposed to expand the denim manufacturing capacity by
85,00,000 metres per annum.
The Company also proposed to set up a new composite mill for producing
annually 120 lakh meters of high quality shirting fabrics to be marketed in
the domestic as well as international markets.
1993-94 First Company to bring International Shirt brand Arrow to India.
First company to start retail outlets for Arrow brand.
1995 The performance of textile division was significantly affected due to an
unprecedented rise in cost of cotton.
Garment division launched ready to stitch jeans pack under the brand Ruf& Tuf.
1997 Indias largest state-of-the-art facility for shirting, gabardine and knits is set
up at Santej, Gandhinagar (Gujarat).
The largest zero discharge green effluent treatment plant in India.
The marketing and distribution network of Newport brand was
strengthened and the relaunched Flying Machine and Ruggers brand
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were strengthened.
The Company reported a fire in the goods godown & folding packing
department in Naroda Road unit of the company.
Arvind sets up the anti-piracy cell for the first time in India to curb large
scale counterfeiting of their highly successful brands Ruf & Tuf and
Newport jeans.
Arvind Limited adopts the franchisee system for the manufacture and
distribution of Ruf and Tuf jeans.
Arvind Fashions, doubles its capacity in the state-of-the-art manufacturing
facility in Bangalore to produce Lee jeans.
First Indian company to verticalize the cotton textile business from cotton
fields to apparel retailing.
1997 was also the year when Arvind Limited started facing serious troubles
financially.
1998 First company to introduce ERP SAP business solutions in their new
manufacturing unit in April 1998.
Largest Denim and Shirting in South Asia.
1999 Arvind sets a two-month deadline for hiving off its garments division into a
separate company and sale of its real estate in Delhi.
2000 CRISIL downgrades the debenture issues of Arvind Limited, indicating
that the instruments were in default.
2001 Arvind entered into exports of garments setting up Shirt factories in
Bangalore in 2001.
Arvind defaults on a $125 million floating rate note issue and puts forward
a debt restructuring proposal that could significantly reduce its debt burden
and sharply improve its financial health.
Arvind Limited posts a net loss of 44.59 crore for the quarter ended
September 30, 2001.
2002 Arvind entered into Jeans Garment exports in March 2002 with its first
Jeans factory The Arvind Overseas (Mauritius) Ltd., Mauritius, to offer
full Garment package to its customers in USA and Europe.
2003 For the fourth quarter, Arvind witnesses 280% growth in the net profit.
Arvind Limited is assigned a `P1+` rating by CRISIL, which indicates a
very strong rating for their commercial paper.
2004 Company turns itself around showing remarkable improvement in financial
performance.
Arvind decided to move the Denim Garment factory to Bangalore, India in
September 2004.
2005 Arvind creates a unique one-stop shop service on a global scale, offering
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garment packages to reputed national and international customers.
For the fourth quarter in a row, Arvind has managed to post a profit growth
in excess of 80 per cent.
Arvind Limited decides to buy entire stake in Arvind Brands
from ICICI Ventures
2007 Arvind expands its presence in the brands and retail segment by
establishing MegaMartOne of Indias largest value retail chains.
2008 Largest portfolio of International brands: Lee, Wrangler, Nautica, Jansport,
Kipling, Tommy, Arrow, US Polo, Izod, Pierre Cardin, Palm Beach,
Cherokee etc.
2010 Arvind Limited launches The Arvind Store, a concept putting the
companys best fabrics, brands and bespoke styling and tailoring solutions
under one roof.
Arvindbecomes one of Indias largest producers of fire protection fabrics.
Table 1: Timeline of Arvind Limited
COMPANYS VISION
They Believe
In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus on problem solving; in teams for
effective performance, in the power of the intellect.
They Endeavour
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to build
leaders for the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual
business contributions.
They Dream
Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and prosperity; of making the world a betterplace to live in.
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EXECUTIVE LEADERS
Table 2: Executive Leaders Of Arvind Limited
(Source: Company official website www.arvindmills.com)
DIVISIONS
Woven Fabrics
SHIRTINGANDBOTTOMWEIGHTS
Arvinds expertise in new age shirting fabric and bottom weights is unparalleled. Their shirting
fabrics have consistently fetched a premium in the local and international markets. Prominent
products within shirting category include fabrics with non-iron properties, mechanical finishes,
printed fabrics apart from the cotton and cotton blends in Linen, Lycra, Polyester, Modal, Silk
etc. with varieties in yarn dyes and solids.
The state of the art facility is capable of producing a total of 65 million meters per annum of
Shirting (35 million meters) and bottom weight fabrics (30 million meters). It ensures that
stringent quality standards are met and products remain eco-friendly. This capacity is set to
increase reaching a total of 84 million meters by the next financial year.
Further, Arvind has a unique plant for manufacturing very light weight indigo dyed fabrics in
yarn dyed and solids for top weights. Arvind Shirting has a liquid ammonia based fabric
processing plant and a state-of-the-art print housea first for India and one of the few in Asia.
Corporate
Jayesh ShahDirector & CFO
Anang LalbhaiMD - Arvind Products
Lifestyle Fabrics
Aamir AkhtarCEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim
Susheel KaulCEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics
PD ChavdaPresident, Voiles
Lifestyle Apparel
Ashish Kumar
CEO, LifestyleApparel - Jeans &Shirts
Brands & Retail
J.SureshManaging Director - Brands & Retail
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They have a dedicated in-house design team constantly working on product innovation and
fashion forecasts for the domestic and international markets. They also boast of the largest
yardage and sampling mill in India.
Their spinning setup can produce a variety of counts for yarn types like compacts, slubs, signed
yarn etc. The weaving capabilities include high-speed Airjet looms and Rapier looms. Theirfinishing capabilities include continuous bleaching and dying ranges, caustic mercerization, and
machinery for various chemical and mechanical finishes.
A sophisticated and supremely flexible package dying facility complete with vessels ranging
from 1 Kg to 750 Kilograms and state of the art printing facilities are also in place.
In addition to cotton they now work with a variety of fibers including Modal, Tencel,
Excel, Viscose, Bemberg, Lycra, Silk, Linen, Polyester and Nylon.
They are host to Indias first Ammonia Mercerization Plant.
They use patented technology to impart structural stability and superior hand-feel for thedifficult-to-handle fibers like Modal, Tencel, Excel and Viscose.
Over the years, their in house R&D department has successfully developed and perfected
a number of finishes adding value to our products and uniqueness to our range.
Other Chemical Finishes: Wrinkle free, Prepress, Everfresh, Easy to Iron, Stain
Repellant, Nano Care, Anti-Bacterial, Permawhite etc.
Mechanical Finishes: Aero, Peach, Brush, Diamond Emery and Carbonium.
Their product range is certified by Oekotex, processes are certified by GOTS for producingOrganic products. They are certified producers of Lycra and Teflon based varieties, while their
laboratory is accredited by Marks and Spencers, Next, Gap Inc., Levi's, DuPont and INVISTA.
DENIMS
The late 1980s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an installed
capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading producer of denim in the
world. It has an export network of 70 countries worldwide. Design, Innovations and
Sustainability have been their core competency and have played a key role in the success. Theuse of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers
has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. All their products are
designed and modeled on the basis of expert design inputs coming from our designers based out
of India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark
of distinctiveness and quality.
Some Examples:
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Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim
Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge
Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen
Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes
Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim
Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim
The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS,
and Organic exchange standard. Our labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025 certification) and
customers like Levis, Lee, and Wrangler etc. As one of the largest denim producers in the
world, Arvind caters to quality markets of Europe, US, West Asia, the Far East and the Asia
Pacific.
KHAKI
The many virtues of Arvind Khaki merit undivided attention: An annual capacity of 21 million
meters which facilitates the launch of two new collections annually; and the distinction of being
the only khakis division in South East Asia to do so.
The division provides the finest fabrics in the variants of 100% Cotton, Cotton Rich Polyester
Blend, Cotton Lycra, Cotton Tencel, Cotton Linen, etc to name a few. The division has an
integrated plant with weaving and processing facilities. The most prominent products in this
range include Chinos, Canvas, Ribstop, HBT, Tussore, Cavalry, Structures and Dobbies.
VOILES
Arvind has been well poised as a leading manufacturer of super fine fabrics in India. An
uncontested market-leader in the manufacture of voiles, Arvind still continues to manufacture the
traditional fabric for both domestic and international markets. The legacy of Arvind transcends
from the olden days into a golden future with a production capacity of 36 million meters per
annum. Arvinds voiles are primarily used as blouse material and are sold in the domestic market
through an impressive network of around 150 dealers, reaching over 5000 retail outlets
throughout India. High quality Swiss voiles are exported to Switzerland, Sri Lanka and countries
in the Middle East.
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Customers of Woven Fabrics:
Banana Republic, Brooks Brothers, Ann Taylor, Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein, Polo Ralph, Eddie
Bauer, Express, J Crew, Louis Phillip, Van Heusen, Arrow, Color Plus, Esprit, Paul Smith, Park
Avenue
KNITS FABRICS
Arvinds knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 5,000 tons. The knits vertical has a
fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity of 1800 tons per annum.
It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabrics and offers specialty finishes like
mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing and peaching. The department also boasts
of a state-of- the art print shop equipped with fully automatic placement printing capabilities
Basic knits:
Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock
Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric
Fibers: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester
Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.
Customers:Marks & SpencerEddie BauerZaraJosepha Bank
ADVANCED MATERIALS
Arvind's Advanced Materials is a certified ISO 9001: 2008 manufacturing facility
producing high performance industr ial fabrics with world class technology and
knowhow based on a strong foundation of knowledge, research and market needs.
They are committed to offer textile solutions for rapidly growing sectors like General
Industrial manufacturing and processing, infrastructure, transport, energy and personal
protection.
OTHER DIVISIONS
GARMENT EXPORTS
A world without boundaries is a promise of a global marketplace. At Arvind, the range of fabrics
is universal in appeal. They aim to inspire a diverse mix of customers enriching lifestyles
globally.
Bottoms: 7.2 million pieces of jeans per annum\
Formal & Casual tops: 6 million pieces per annum
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Knit tops: 3.6 million pieces per annum
Their specialized capabilities for adding value to our products include;
Automated Placement Printing Machinery
Indias largest washing facility with Tonello machines for wet processes
Bohemian machines and Laser tech for unique and automated dry processes
Skilled artisans for hand processes
BRANDS
Arvind today manufactures fabric for the following brand names:-
Inhouse brands : Excalibur,Flying machine,Ruff and tuff,New Port university.
Licensed Brands: Gant, U.S.A. 1949, Hart Shaffer Marx, USPA, Sansa Belt , Arrow
Joint Ventured Brands: Tommy Hilfiger, Nautica, Lee, Wrangler,Riders
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ORGANIZATION CHART OF ARVIND MILLS-SHIRTING DIVISION
Chairman & Managing Director(Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai)
Chief Executive Officer- Knits and Woven Fabrics(Mr. Susheel Kaul)
Production
HR Department
Material Stores
Administration & Accounts
Exports and Domestic
Packaging
Spinning
Engineering
Weaving
Processing & Finishing
Testing
Production Planning and Control
Quality Control
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PROCESSES / DEPARTMENTS OF ARVIND MILLS, SANTEJ
PRODUCTION PROCESS FLOW CHART
SPINNING
WEAVING PREPARATION
WEAVING
WET PROCESSING
DYEING/ PRINTING
FINISHING
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Raw Material Store Room
OBJECTIVE
The Raw Materials Department is the department from where the work starts in the plant. The
main objectives of raw material department are storing, issuing, and reconciliation of raw
material intended for manufacturing.
(Raw Materials were placed in the storage Room as per their sourcing places.)
SYSTEM AND PROCEDURE
Work takes place in the following systematic order:-
1. The orders are placed in the Marketing Department, at the Head Office stationed at
Arvind mills santej, Ahmedabad. The customer specifies its requirements in the order.
2. A sales order is then prepared giving a systematic description of the requirements by the
Marketing Department, which is then sent to the factory.
3. The Sales Order is received at the Production Planning and Commitment Department
(PPC).
4. The PPC Department then makes the production planning chart which includes all the
characteristics of the yarn required.
5. The Production Program is then sent to the Raw Materials Department.
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ROLE OF RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT
It receives the material, which is ordered by production department and issues the required
material to the department. In case of rejection, it stores the rejected material and returns it to the
seller end.
Types of cotton Arvind Mills use:
1.PAKISTAN COTTON
2.J34SG
It is a selection from non-descriptive hirustum mixtures. Re-selection from Bikaneri Narma. It is
sown in the months of April/May and the crop is ready for picking by October/December..
J34RG and SG are grown in the states of Punjab, Haryana and Rajasthan and total production per
annum is around 2.6 million bales of each of 170 Kg.
3.SHANKAR-6GUJARAT COTTON
It is sown in the month of June-July and is ready for picking in November and may extend upto
February. It is cultivated in an area of 4.4 million Acres in the state of Gujarat.
4.ORGANIC COTTON
Organic cotton is being produced in-house by arvind mills, and also being procured from fully
organic certified farms, as some environment conscious customers prefer to use it.
b. Arvinds organic cotton contract farming project is located in the cotton growing belt district
of Maharashtra; Akola. )
.
MATERIAL PURCHASE
In Raw Material, they source both long staple fibers and short staple fibers from Andra Pradesh,
Rajasthan,Punjab,Gujarat and imports from Pakistan. Certain prerequisites are considered as to
what kind of cotton fibers are required like Length, Strength, Fineness (micronium per inch),
Uniformity Ratio.
Geeta cotton Co. Pvt. Ltd. (Andhra Pradesh)
Sai Venkata agro industries pvt.ltd(Andhra Pradesh)
Sri Ganganagar Pvt. Ltd. (Rajasthan) etc.
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Spinning Department
Figure 3: Layout Of Spinning Department
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SPINNING PROCESS
(http://www.toyota-industries.com/product/textile/textile/made.html)
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PROCESS FLOW
1.Bales of cotton of various grades are moved from the WAREHOUSE to the BALE OPENINGroom.
2. Selected bales are opened and placed in position beside the BREAKING and OPENING
machine. This is actually a line of machines, working as a unit, that tear apart and partially clean
matted, compressed, and baled cotton. The result is small loose bunches of cotton.
3. The cotton is then placed into the BLENDING MACHINE. This is a group of devices that are
synchronized to proportion definite amounts of various grades of cotton which are to be blended
together.
4. At this time, matted cotton and waste yarn salvaged from operations in the mill are placed into
the WASTE MACHINE. This machine beats, pulls apart, and fluffs up waste cotton to prepare it
for re-use.
5. Cotton from both the BLENDING MACHINE and the WASTE MACHINE is fed into the
BREAKER PICKER. In this unit the raw cotton is partially cleaned by beating and fluffing and
then fed into the FINISHER PICKER.
6. The FINISHER PICKER receives partially cleaned cotton in the form of LAP from the
BREAKER PICKER and completes the cleaning and fluffing process. LAP is a general term
used to designate wide sheets of loosely matted cotton.
7. The cotton is next processed by a CARDING MACHINE, where dirt and short fibers are
removed, other fibers are laid parallel and formed into a ropelike strand called a SLIVER. The
SLIVER is deposited in large cylindrical containers called CANS.
8. Subsequent processing depends on whether better grade (combed) yarn, or lower grade
(carded) yarn is desired. For the lower grade, processig continues at the DRAWING FRAME
(see step 12 below)
9. For better grade yarn, the SLIVER is first processed by the SLIVER LAPPING MACHINE,
which draws and combines several strands of SLIVER into a sheet of LAP and winds it on aspool ready for RIBBON LAPPING or COMBING.
10. The LAP is processed by a RIBBON LAPPING MACHINE which draws and combines
several rolls of LAP into one roll of RIBBON LAP, straightening the fibers slightly and making
the lap more uniform in weight and texture, ready for feeding to a COMBING MACHINE.
RIBBON LAP is a roll of closely matted cotton fibers, about 10 inches wide.
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11. COMBING is the process of extracting fibers below a predetermined length and removing
any remaining dirt. Output of the COMBING MACHINE is deposited in CANS.
12. The cotton is next processed by the DRAWING FRAME. It is a machine in which several
strands of SLIVER are combined into one strand and DRAWN OUT so that the combined
strands approximate the weight and size of any one of the original strands. The term DRAWN
OUT means to stretch a strand of cotton, usually by running the strand between several pairs of
rollers, each pair turning faster than the pair before it.
13. The SLUBBING MACHINE then draws out strands of SLIVER and twists them together
loosely in order to give the strands (now called ROVING) sufficient strength to withstand
subsequent operations.
14. The ROVING is processed by the FLY FRAME. This machine progressively combines two
strands of partially processed ROVING into one, draws out the combined strands until they are
of prescribed weight, and twists them loosely in order to give them sufficient strength to
withstand subsequent operations.
(http://www.glencoenc.com/library/flow.html)
BLOW ROOM
Blow room is the starting of the spinning operation where the fiber is opened, cleaned, mixed
and evened.
The whole machine is subject to suction and the dust is collected in special filters; the material,
on the other hand, undergoing contemporaneously, the rotary action of the cylinder and suction
along the operating width, effects a helical movement around the drum and exits from the side
opposite to that on which it entered. It is then transferred by the delivery hopper into the
transportation conduit.
OBJECTIVESOFBLOWROOM:
1. To open the compressed bales of fibers
2. Remove dirt and dust, broken leaf, seed particles or any other foreign impurities from the
fibers
3. To transfer the opened and cleaned fibers into a sheet form of definite width uniform weight
per unit length which is called lap.
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4. To roll the lap of predetermined length into a cylindrical shape around a lap pin.
5. To transfer the lap from the lap pin to a lap rod to a suitable and feed it to the subsequent m/c
(carding).
Figure 4:Blow Room Line
(http://www.truetzschler-spinning.com/en/products/blow-room/technical-highlights-blow-room/)
BLOW ROOM LINE
1. Blendomat (bale opener and cotton plucker)
2. GBR(cotton opener)
3. AFC(Axi flow cleaner)
4. MPM(Multiplex mixer)
5. ASTA(heavy particle cleaner)
6. Dustex(Micro dust cleaner)
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BLENDING(BDTBLENDOMAT)
Bale Specification
1 Bales : 165-170 kgs
Table 3: Bale Specification
Blending: It is meant as the intermingling of different kinds of fibers or different grade of same
fibers e.g. polyester & cotton, Viscose & cotton.
Blending of fiber material is an essential preliminary in the production of a yarn.
Fibers can be blended at various stages of the process. These possibilities should
always be fully exploited, for example, by transverse doubling.
However, the starting process is one of the most important stages for blending,
since the components are still separate and therefore can be metered exactly and
without dependence upon random effects.
A well-assembled bale layout and even (and as far as possible, simultaneous)
extraction of fibers from all bales is therefore of paramount importance.
Objectives of mixing or blending
Economy
Processing performance
Functional properties
Place of Origin: GermanyBrand Name Trutzschler
Model Number: Blendomat BDT 019
Type BLENDOMAT
Depth (Limit) 93-1789 Metres
The machine takes up 50-60 cotton bales (approx.) in 8.5 hours. Each cotton bale weight 165
kgs.
Machine main supply : 3Ph/Ac, 415V, 50Hz.
Control circuit : 1Ph/Ac, 24V, 50Hz
Table 4: BLOW ROOM MACHINE SPECIFICATION (BLENDOMAT BDT019)
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GBR
Here the cottons are fed for homogenous mixtures and for removing dirts.MPM-8it has got 8
chambers. Generally used for homogenous mixture of fibers like while harvesting some cottonare from matured plants and some are not. So that it will affect the fabric. So, after homogenous
mixing all will be the same.
Opening
Steps :
cottons are passes between feeder rolls to beater cylinder. The rapidly whirling beater blades
take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash, and loosen up the mass.
The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air is sucked out of them by fan.
This draws the cotton from beater and condenses it on the surface of the screen rolls from
which it is taken and passed on by the small rolls.
Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt passes cotton to another type
of beater. From beater the cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried to picker.
GBR cotton opener- opens about 400 kg/hr.
Figure 5: BLOW ROOM GBR MACHINE(ARVIND ,SANTEJ UNIT)
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AXI FLOW CLEANER
CLEANING
Cotton contains up to 18% trash in most cases. To clean the material it is unavoidable to
remove as much fiber as much waste.
Therefore it is necessary to measure the amount of the waste removed and its
composition. As it is of high importance also called cleaning efficiency.
Cotton moves from GBR to Axiflow cleaner by suction and impurities fall below in a bin
under the gravitational pull. Axiflow cleaner is fitted with beaters.
Objective of AFC is separation of heavy parts (impurities) from cotton.
The opened up mass of fiber rotates around two cleaning rollers (beaters) with cylinder
steel pins which beat the fiber material, allowing the coarse particles to be separated.
Machine used in Arvind Mills ,santej unit :
Machine make: Trutzschler (Germany)
Model: 052-2502
Pressure: 50-75 bar
Major parts: Two metallic perforated cylinders and waste collector
Speed range
Of beaters : 400-600 rpm
Table 5: AXI FLOW CLEANER MACHINE SPECIFICATION
MPMMULTIPLE MIXER-
Mixing
. This sucks cotton from axi flow cleaner and pumps to ASTA meanwhile sorting the cotton
fibers .Generally used for homogenous mixture of fibers. Fitted with eight beaters.
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Machine used for Mixing in Arvind Mills ,santej unit:
Machine: Trutzschler
Model: 10236
Motor speed: 1750 rpm
Opening rolls speed: 800-850 m/min
Number of chambers: 10
Output: 30-36%
Pressure: 350 bar
Major parts: This machine consists of material feed, reserve
tank, reserve tank flaps, optical sensor delivery,
rollers, and material suction funnel.
Table 6: MPM MULTIPLE MIXER MACHINE SPECIFICATION
ASTA:
Objective of ASTA is Heavy trash separation from cotton. The air and material enters the
separation tank in a stream via upper channel and hit baffle plates. Heavy particles are removed
away from the lighter fibers by negative acceleration and the force of gravity. The lower channel
generates air stream in the area of baffle plates, which guides the fibers to the outlet.
Machine used in Arvind Mills ,santej unit:
Machine brand : TRUTZSCHLER (GERMANY)
Model no. ASTA 800Principle : Principle of aerodynamics
Table 7: ASTA MACHINE SPECIFICATION
DUSTEX:
Dust removal is not an easy operation since the dust particles are completely enclosed in
the flocks & hence are back during suction. The suction units remove 64% dust.
Dust removal in the blow room happens by air suctioning only, either between the
machines, e.g. by dust cages, dust extractors, etc., or within the machine by normal air
separation.
Every blow room machine must be capable of extracting dust, so that special dedusting
machines should be needed.
The efficiency depends not only on the devices but also on the size of the flocks. The
smaller the flocks, the higher is the efficiency.
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Machine used in Arvind Mills ,santej unit:
Machine brand: TRUTZSCHLER(GERMANY)
Model no.: CVT-4 1600No. of machines: 3
Cleaning efficiency: 64%
Table 8: DUSTEX MACHINE SPECIFICATION
CARDING
Carding is the heart of the entire spinning process and as such requires utmost care. Next to blow
room, carding is the only major stage for cleaning cotton.
Figure 6:D/F B/W CARDED AND UNCARDED YARNSFigure 7: CARDING PROCESS
OBJECTIVESOFCARDING:
To open the tuft of fibers
To make the fiber parallel & straight
To remove remaining trash particles
To remove short fibers
To remove naps
To produce a rove like fiber called sliver, which is uniform in per unit length.
Carding is a mechanical process that breaks up locks and unorganised clumps of fibre and
then aligns the individual fibres so that they are more or less parallel with each other.
Carding can also be used to create blends of different fibres or different colours.
Carding is the process of removing impurities from fibers and producing a carded sliver
of parallelized and straightened fibers.
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Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed,
the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be straightened.
The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel Carding.
The work is done by carding machine.
MAIN ACTIONS OF CARDING MACHINE
1. Action between fee roller & taker in
2. Action between taker in and cylinder
3. Action between cylinder and flat
4. Action between cylinder and doffer.
Machine used in Arvind Mills ,santej unit:
Number of machines: 14
Machine brand: Trutzschler (Germany)
Model: DK 70
Cylinder speed: 450-500 rpm
Doffer speed: 25-30 rpm
Cylinder diameter: 1290 mm
Doffer diameter: 500 mm
Can diameter: 24
Can height: 42
Temperature: 33.3 degree Celsius
Production: 25 kg/hr.
Rate of feed: 500gm/min
Table 9:CARDING MACHINE SPECIFICATION
DRAWING
In the spinning process, the next important stage in the cotton process is draw frame. By carding
the entangled mass of fibers is well opened so that every fiber becomes quite free. Theseindividual fibers lie criss-cross in the web. These fibers require be straightening and parallelizing
to the possible extent.
OBJECTIVE OF DRAWING:
To straightened the fibers in theslivers.
To make them lie in a manner parallel to their neighbors and to the sliver axis.
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To improve the uniformity or evenness of the slivers.
Pre draw frame:
8 carded slivers are fed into the drawing machine where they are combined and drawn into a
single sliver using some tension. The sliver is made more uniform in terms of mass per unit
length, parallel and improved. A relative humidity of 51-53% and temperature of 33-35% are
maintained on the floor. Breaker sliver is the output.
Unilap:
Here 24-26 breaker slivers are combined to form a single lap sheet. A single roll of lap weighs is
1 kg. Comber lap emerges out of this machine.
Machine used in Arvind ,santej unit: RIETER UNILAP E 30.
No. of machine: 2
Comber:
The laps are fed into the system where they are combed by rollers with teeth. 8 laps are
combined to form 1 combed sliver.
The following quality of fibers can only be obtained by combing
Clean finer fiber
Uniformity in length of fiber Absence of nap
More parallel arrangement of fibers
Straight fibers
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The sequence of operation in a comber is as follows:
1. Feeding of the lap by feed roller
2. The fed lap is gripped by the nipper
3. The gripped lap is combed by circular comb
4. The detaching roller grips the combed lap and moves forward
5. While the detaching roller delivers the material, top comb comes into action to further clean
the lap. The short fibres are removed.
6. While going back, nipper opens and receives a new bit of lap. Thus, nipper holds the material
while the comb moves to and fro. It pulls the material. There are brushes that clean the circular
comb.
Machine used in Arvind ,santej unit: RIETER E 60.
No. of machine: 15
Post draw frame:
8 combed slivers are further combined, parallelized and the sliver quality is improved by
drawing. The mass/ length is reduced. These are called finished sliver.
Machine used in Arvind ,santej unit: RIETER RSB951
No. of machine: 7
ROVING
The main objective of roving frame is given below:-
Attenuation- Drafting the draw frame sliver into roving.
Twisting-To inserts the twist into the roving.
Winding-Winding the twisting roving on bobbin.
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SPEED FRAME
Slivers are made into roving bobbins by imparting a slight twist and drawing under tension
through roller pairs. The bobbins are placed one by one in rows and the armed flyer of the
machine is lowered to the level of a black ring on it. 2 rounds of roving are wound to begin with,and the guide on the arm carries it all around the bobbin thus winding it parallely. A much finer
thread of fibers are produced.
Machine used in Arvind Mills ,santej unit:
Figure 8:Speed Frame LF1400A MACHINEIMAGE SOURCE: (ARVIND ,SANTEJ UNIT)
Machine brand: Lakshmi
Model no. Lakshmi LF1400A
Speed up to: 1400rpmNo of machines: 13
Delivery speed up to: 40 mts/min
Number of spindles 72-144
Table 10: SPEED FRAME MACHINE SPECIFICATION
RING FRAME:
This is the process of formation of yarn. Roving is spun into the yarn of desired count by im-
parting twist. 4 pairs of rollers with and without groves play the drawing action thus reducing the
mass/length and forming yarn. These are wound on smaller spindles.
Machine used in Arvind Mills ,santej unit:
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Figure 9:Ring Frame LR60IMAGE SOURCE: (ARVIND ,SANTEJ UNIT)
Machine brand: Lakshmi
Model no. Lakshmi LR60/AXL
Speed up to: 1600rpm
No of machines: 14
Delivery speed up to: 30 mts/min
Number of spindles 200-500
Table 11:RING FRAME MACHINE SPECIFICATION
RANDOM WINDING/CONE WINDING:
Yarns from the bobbin are transferred to bigger packages called cone on simple cone winder/
mach winder or Autoconer. Bobbins placed in magazine are moved through channels and
detected for loose ends. Those with free end are transported further and attached to the loose end
present in the cone continuing the winding process. Then they are just spliced with each other
thus avoiding knotting to get better efficiency in weaving. The bobbins when empty are tracked
back to be collected by vacuum suction and dropped into a bin.
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Figure 10: CONE WINDINGIMAGE SOURCE: (ARVIND ,SANTEJ UNIT)
ASSEMBLY WINDING:
Here, 2 cones are used to double the yarn. There is no twist, but only parallel winding of 2 or
more yarns for ply and wound on cheese.
Figure 11: ASSEMBLY WINDINGIMAGE SOURCE: (ARVIND ,SANTEJ UNIT)
TFO:
The two for one twist machine is for twisting the plied yarn and produces bigger cones. To
prevent sloughing off, here, a guide takes the yarn around the package forming a firm setting. A
cone weighs up to 1.8 kg. Z/Z twist is given.
SINGEING:
The yarns are made to pass through flames at fixed temperature, pressure and maintaining otherspecifications. This is done to remove loose fibers and short hairs that cause disturbance in the
smoothness of the yarn. CNG is used as fuel and singed yarn is obtained as output.2 machines
are currently being employed now to solve the working efficiency of the factory.
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List of testing instrument and their functions
Instrument To check
HVI (High Volume Instrument)(USTER HVI 100)
Length of raw materialStrenght of raw material
Elongation of raw material
Color value of raw material
AFIS PRO
(USTERAFIS PRO 2)
Length of fiber from bale and sliver
Short fiber content of bale and sliver
Neps content of fibers from bale and sliver
MDTA(Micro Dust Trash Analyzer) Trash content in raw material
UT5( Uster Tester5)
Mass variation of sliver,roving and yarn
Imperfection of ring bobbin and cone
Hairiness of ring bobbin and cone
USER ZWEIGLE HL 400
To check the number of hairs of yarn in
different length zone
TENSOJET
Single yarn strenght of yarn
Elongation of yarn
CLASSIMAT 5
(USTER CLASSIMAT 5)
To classify yarn faults of ring yarn and cone
AUTOSORTER To check count of sliver ,roving and yarn
WARP BLOCK To prepare sliver and roving for count
checkingWARP REEL To prepare yarn for count checking
STRENGHT TESTER To check strenght of ring yarn and cone
TPI TESTER To check the TPI of single and double yarn
Table 12: TESTING INSTRUMENT AND THEIR FUNCTIONS(ARVINDS MILLS)
WEAVING DEPARTMENT
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Weaving is interlacement of warp with weft thread. In weaving, the warp thread and weft yarn are
crossed over one another in a set method in order to weave the required type of fabric. A machine
designed to accomplish this task is called a loom. First, the warp thread and weft yarn are prepared
so that they can be set into the loom.
Source: (http://www.toyota-industries.com/product/textile/textile/made.html)
WEAVINGPREPARATION
Yarn is the basic building in weaving. Therefore, after yarn manufacturing, the next successive
step should be to weave the yarn into a fabric. However, in practice, the condition of yarn
produced on the spinning machine is not always good enough to be used directly for fabric
formation. Package Size, yarn surface characteristics, and other factors make it necessary for
both filling yarn and warp yarn to be further processed for efficient fabric formation. These
preparatory processes are called weaving preparation.
Warp and filling yarns are subjected to different conditions and requirements during weaving.
Therefore, the preparation of warp and weft yarns is different. Warp yarn is subjected to higher
stress which require extra preparation. Depending upon the weaving methods, the filling yarns
may not be prepared at all, but, rather taken straight off the spinning process and transported to
the weaving process. However, the ring- spun yarns have to go through a winding process for
several reasons. The processes used to prepare yarns for weaving depend on yarn type as well.
The warp yarn preparation is more demanding and complicated than the weft yarn
preparation. Each spot in the warp yarn must undergo several thousand cycles of various
stresses applied by the weaving machine. Weaving stresses include dynamic
tension/contraction, rotation (twist/untwist) and clinging of hairs. Additionally, there are
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metal- to yarn and yarn-to yarn flexing and metal-to- yarn and yarn-to-yarn abrasion
stresses.
Output of the spinning machinery is spindles of short-length yarns. These spindles cannot
be used in the next production process because they are very small lengths, because there
is not enough yarn on the spindle and because its size is not suitable for weaving
processes. Winding produces a yarn package that is suitable for further processing.
Lycra is used to increase the elasticity of the fiber. Filament is used in the fiber which is
exported to countries where the level of sweating is lower as compared to Indian
condition where majorly cotton is used for the same reason.
The weaving department has the distinction of being the largest at Arvind Mills and
exports close to 95% of its manufactured fabric. Discussing the denim fabric, the core
competence of AM, original denim is composed of 100% cotton but with a view to bring
in variations to the material in consonance with the emerging trends in the market,
various natural fibers like linen and synthetic fibers like filament, lycra, polyester are
added to cotton. While weaving such mixed fabric, the core is made of the addend andoriginal cotton is wound around it. Yarn woven vertically is called warp while that woven
laterally is termed as weft. For weaving purposes a cotton count ranging from 5 to 20 is
generally used.
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YARNDYEING
Figure 13 : process flow chart of yarn dyeing
SOFT WINDING BATCHING YARN DYEING
HYDROEXTRACTORDRYERREWINDING
Weft Yarn Preparation Warp Yarn Preparation
Winding Winding
Warping
Slashing
Drawing-in or tying-in
Weaving
Figure 12 The flowchart of major preparation processes for fill ing the warp yarns
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SOFT WINDING: Yarns are transferred from paper cones to plastic tubes or steel tubes
(package dyeing) or beams (beam dyeing).
BATCHING: Yarns are batched according to their count, lot, yarn type and others. A batch card
is formed which contained the essential information of that batch.
DYEING: The yarn for spinning room is in form of spinning bobbins. For dyeing purposes, it
has to be packed in
Spring tubes (which can be compressed) or plastic tubes. These packages are named
packages, which are then sent for dyeing
Beams are prepared which are then sent for yarn beam dyeing.
SOFT PACKAGES
The requirements that a yarn dye package has to meet can be split into 2 major aspects
Demands from dyeing.
Demands from downstream processes and quality control.
The Recipe includes:
Pretreatment- Scouring
1. Sequestering/ Chelating agent
2. De-aerating cum wetting agent
3. Alkali-caustic/ soda ash
Pretreatment- Bleaching
1. Hydrogen peroxide
2. Stabilizer for peroxide Acid for neutralization
Dyeing- Reactive
1. Color (HE/ME)
2. Salt (for exhaustion)
3. Soda ash (for fiation)
4. Leveling agent
Dyeing- Vat
1. Color
2. Sodium hydro sulphite (reducing agent)
3. Caustic (to make vat soluble in water)
4. H2O2 (oxidizing agent)
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Procedure
BLEACHING: LS, SPLF, STCP and caustic are taken at room temperature and raised to50 C. it is stirred for 5 min in mixing vessel and brought to the dyeing chamber. H2O2 is
added at 95 C and stirred for 30 min. it is drained of chemicals.
WASHING: H2O2 and alkali are removed by treatment with hot water at 95 C for 10
minutes. It is washed in cold water for 2 minutes. The peroxide and alkali are neutralized
with acetic acid and 10L.
DYEING: Fresh hot water is taken in the dyeing chamber, LSER and SPLF (wetting
agent) are added to soften the water. This is stirred for 10 minutes and salt added. Again
stirring happens. The color is added fially and boiled at 80 C for 30 minutes. The liquor issent back to mixing vessel where soda ash is added for fiation. It is sent to the dyeing
chamber and treated at 80 C for 45 minutes. The solution is drained and material is
washed for 10 minutes at 80 C. IN OUT for reactive dyes and IN OUT and OUT IN for
vat dyes.
SOAPING: ADW is added to wash off extra dyes. This also reduces the dyes thus fiing
them permanently. Th procedure is for 20 minutes at 95C. Washing with fresh water at
80 C for 10 minutes is done. Cold wash is carried out after this followed by rinsing and
drying. Shade matching: Once the yarn is dried it is sent for shade matching in computer.
Drying: If the yarn matches, YL is added for lighter shade and Supra for darker shade are
added for softening and fiing. Then the package goes to RF machine for drying which
takes
DYEING RELATED REQUIREMENTS:
These include the basic physical issues relating to the fundamental requirement of each and
every fiber in the dye package to be exposed to an equal amount of dye liquor over an equal
length of time, and, thus, we require:
Uniform liquor flow within a package Uniform liquor between packages (within batch)
Uniform liquor flow between packages (batch-to-batch)
In other words, each and every yarn dye package has to conform to a prescribed density and this
density has to be uniform from inside to outside and from tip to toe of package. Similarly,
packages of identical density and uniformity have to be produced on any spindle of a winding
machine at any given time, meaning total reproducibility.
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The density of spun yarn dye packages recommend by leading dyeing vessel manufacturers is:
For Cotton: 420 g/l
For Cotton/ Polyester blend: 460 g/l
Since such packages, as compared with those intended for use in warping creels or knitting
creels, feel spongier, they are universally referred to as soft packages.
Apart from yarn dyeing these packages must also conform to certain post-dyeing requirements,
thus,
Optimum unwinding properties
Resistance of package to handling, are equally important aspects of soft package winding.
After dyeing, the yarn will be used in either weaving or knitting, and, thus has to be unwound forfurther processing. Therefore, no tension variation or disturbed yarn layers must be present, as
these defects are the major source of yarn hairiness or breakages.
In Arvind Mills
There are 37 workers and the production per day is around 14 tons.
Types of cones: - Paper Plastic Tube(PPT), use and throw(135-140 g)
- Spring tube- stainless steel-reusable(165 g)
Package Size: 1.2 kg.
These soft packages are used for dyeing checks and stripes.
BEAMS FOR BEAM DYEING
Besides the yarn being wound in the form of soft packages, it is also wound on beams for beam
dyeing purpose. Beam dyeing is mainly carried out if we want one color in the warp direction of
the fabric. Spinning bobbins are placed on creels, and the yarn from each bobbin is then collected
and sent to the machine, where it is wound on cylinders.
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WORKING PRINCIPLE OF BEAM DYEING MACHINES
The working principle is same as that of HTHP yarn dyeing machines. The process of beam
dyeing is as follows,
1. The yarn in open width is rolled on to a perforated beam.
2. The beam then subsequently inserted into a dyeing vessel.
3. The machine is closed and pressurized.
4. The dye liquor is circulated in to out and out to in directions, under pressure and
temperature is employed as per the process requirement.
5. The chemicals and auxiliary are injected as per requirement of the process.
In Arvind Mills
Machine Specifications
Beam Dyeing Route 85% efficiency
400-500 m/hr. speed
30 kg/ beam- max. capacity (1160 m.)
Faller wire stop motion device
Figure 14 Beam dyeing route machine specification
Per shift- 24 beams
The packages were mounted on a creel. Each creel has about 700- grey packages. One
and a half hours are required to change the creel.
A creel has 700 cones. Yarn from each cone passes through a spring before passing
through the drop wires. These springs are set to a particular tension which determines
the speed and tension at which he cheese will unwind.
Faller wire stop motion mechanism is as follows: Creel has drop wires (hook shaped),
which drop as a yarn passing through it breaks. A sensor is attached to the Dyeing
Beam stops the machine as soon as it senses a wire drop.
An indicator attached to the side of the rod (to which drop wires are attached), is
lighted, thereby indicating the point where yarn breakage occurs.
There are 41 machines; it takes 6.5 hours in beam dyeing.
HYDROEXTRACTOR AND DRYER: Excess water of the dyed yarn is removed. Hydro-
extracting without deformation of bobbins and cones provides better results in drying and
rewinding. Therefore the overall system hydro-extractingdryingrewinding system increases
efficiency and quality.
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WINDING
Yarn packages come from the dyeing unit in the form of packages winded in spring or PP tube.
They cant be directly used for warping or for weft yarn on the looms. So the weaving
department is equipped with winding machines and autoconers. These machines are also used torecycle the left over cone packages. Packages that have been used for warping or as weft on the
looms, (and are left with some yarn on them) are collected and converted to bigger packages so
they can be used again.
In the process, the yarn from a number of ring frame bobbins or hanks is put in a long
continuous length on to bigger packages such as Warpers bobbin, cone or cheese. During this
process, the objectionable faults are removed from yarn. For the use of dyed yarn, ring frame
bobbins may be taken to reeling process to obtain hanks. These hanks are dyed & then sent to
winding. The yarn is dyed in cone/cheese form also. Thus, winding packages (warpers bobbin,
corn or cheese) are taken to next process of warping i.e. Direct Warping or Sectional Warping.
There are 80 workers in this department.
OBJECTIVES OF WINDING:
Scanning and faults removing: Electric Scanners (uster) are used for checking and
elimination of yarn faults during winding process. This process is called Usterization of
yarn. Such faults are called scan-cuts.
Splicing of broken or cut yarn:Auto splicing is done for broken yarn pieces toeliminate yarn knots and bad piecing.
Bigger and quality package:Conversion of yarn from small ring bobbins to bigger yarn
cones of different international standard or as per requirement of customer. During
achieving above objectives or making of winding cones some faults are created during
the process. These faults need to be controlled through monitoring and continuous study.
Most of the winding faults are very dangerous for the next subsequent process which can
be warping or knitting or doubling. We can face complains from customer of breakage of
yarn during unwinding process.
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HOW QUALITY IS MAINTAINED IN ARVIND MILLS?
Following point are considered from quality point of view:
Winding speed should be 1200 meter per minute for getting good quality.
For getting good quality, yarn fault clearers device setting should be as close as possible
in order to eliminate the disturbing yarn faults.
In order to get good quality of yarn count channel setting should be less than 7%.
Cone which we prepare for weaving purpose should have minimum fault for getting good
quality, especially in the long thin places and long thick places.
For getting good quality yarn, splice strength must be 75% more than of the yarn
strength.
Splice appearance should be good. Splice device should be checked twice in a week.
To get better efficiency, cone weight should be 1.8 to 2.4.
Yarn winding tension must not be high during winding. If we will keep it high then
tensile properties will be affected such as elongation and tenacity.
If waxing attachment is below the clearers, the clearers should be clean at least once in a
day.
Properly formed packages of defect-free spun- yarn are an even more critical factor. Package
consideration include condition of the passage core, the proper provision of yarn transfer tails;
properly formed splices or knots; elimination of internal defects such as slubs, sloughs, tangles,
wild yarn, scuffs, etc.; and elimination of external defects such as cobwebs, abrasion, poor
package shape or build, proper density (hardness) and unwind stability.
PRECISION WINDING:
By precision winding successive coils of yarn are laid close together in a parallel or near parallel
manner. By this process it is possible to produce very dense package with maximum amount of
yarn stored in a given volume.
Features:
Package are wound with a reciprocating traverse
Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages
Package contains more yarn
Package is less stable
The package is hard and compact
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The package is dense
Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of unwinding is hard
The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner.
NON PRECISION WINDING
By this type of winding the package is formed by a single thread which is laid on the package at
appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another and give stability to the package. The
packages formed by this type of winding are less dense but is more stable.
Features:
Only one coil is used to make this packages
Cross winding technique is used
The package density is low
Minimum number of yarn is wound The package formed is soft and less compact
The stability is high
Flanges are not required
The rate of unwinding is high and the process is easy
The packages formed have low density
FOR WINDING
Make of the Machine No. Of heads No. Of Machines
Muratec Machconer No.7 VSS 60 4
Schlafhorst Autoconer 238 50 5
Muratec Machconer No.7 50 12
Oerlikon Schlafhorst Autoconer X5 60 8
Table 13: Machines for winding
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Figure 15: Winding Data Sheet
WARPING
Warping is transferring many yarns from creel of single-end package forming parallel sheet of
yarn wound on to be a beam or section beam. Warping machines can process all type of
materials including coarse and fine filament and staple yarns, monofilament, text