asante no15

BrightPainting the City

Jinja’s Celebration of Colour

Mogadishu’sWarm WelcomeKitata

Story ofThe Amazing

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The inflight magazine of Air Uganda part of the Issue 15

Hotel Emerald is a business-class hotel, ideally situated in the heart of Westlands, only a few steps away from the major business centers, shopping malls and entertainment areas. Our convenient location, combined with great amenities and a high level of comfort, make Hotel Emerald the perfect location for your next stay in Nairobi.

Our hotel has 14,000 sq ft of meeting and conference space, giving you ample scope to plan that important meeting, seminar or dream event. Our events team will be on-hand to ensure that everything goes as smoothly as possible. Our comfortable guest rooms all come with business-friendly features such as complimentary Wi-Fi access, a 32’’ LCD TV and a laptop-sized safe, while select rooms feature a Jacuzzi and balcony with panoramic city views.

When it comes to Comfort and Convenience

For further information & reservations contact:HOTEL EMERALD, Krishna Center 6th Floor, 12 Woodvale Grove,

Westlands, P.O. Box 13839 - 00800, Nairobi, Kenya • Tel: +254 (0)729 418 241 / +254 (0)732 515 705 • Email: [email protected]

• Perfect for conferences and corporate events, weddings, banquets and parties

• Ideal for business luncheons

• Multi-cuisine restaurant with spectacular views of Nairobi

• 24-hour business center

• Airport transfers & currency exchange

W E M E A N B U S I N E S S

Westlands, Nairobiwww.thehotelemerald.com

Uganda is a beautiful country that has many tourist attractions

and investment opportunities. I am pleased that we now have

a partnership with the Ugandan Ministry of Tourism to promote

and showcase the cultural heritage and beauty of this country,

which is appropriately named ‘the Pearl of Africa’. You will find

in this edition of Asante magazine many interesting articles on

Uganda’s tourism sites, as well as its history and people, in

addition to the usual snippets on points of interest and activities

throughout East Africa.

Finally, I want to thank you for choosing to fly with us today and

to invite you to join our Celestars frequent flyer program, as we

look forward to serving you once again on your next flight.

I wish you a pleasant flight!

Mr. Cornwell Muleya

Chief Executive Officer

Air Uganda

It is my pleasure to address you for the first time as Chief

Executive Officer of Air Uganda and to express how happy

we all are that you have chosen to fly with us. We have

spent the last few months upgrading our products and

services to ensure that you have a pleasant experience with

us, starting from the time you decide to book your flight, up to

the completion of your journey.

Our website www.air-uganda.com now has an enhanced

booking engine, allowing you to search for flights quickly

and easily. This is linked to a secure payment platform which

allows customers to pay for tickets straight away using major

payment channels like ATM/debit cards, credit cards (Visa,

Mastercard), PayPal and mobile money, i.e. M-Pesa & Airtel

Money. This platform then delivers your ticket to your e-mail

address and your mobile phone. We encourage you to use this

convenient channel, which operates 24 hours a day, and also

to give us your thoughts via our twitter and facebook accounts

on how we can further improve your travel.

We have also rolled out our ‘Shukran’ customer service on the

ground to ensure that your experience at check-in and boarding

is as smooth as possible. This, coupled with our premium

‘Crane Class’ product, is delighting many of our business and

leisure customers throughout East Africa. On board, we have

also upgraded our meals to offer a variety of tasty snacks to

suit the time of day and to ensure our frequent flyers are not

disappointed. These are but a few reasons why Air Uganda is

becoming East Africa’s favourite airline with a growing number

of customers.

With your support, we have continued to invest in new routes.

We introduced flights from Entebbe to Kilimanjaro in May

2013, and further added our direct flights from Entebbe to

Mogadishu in July 2013. We have also added frequencies to

Dar es Salaam, Nairobi and Juba, thus offering our customers

more options to travel and do business throughout the region.

Our codeshare agreement with RwandAir also offers travel

connections through Kigali while our interline agreements

with British Airways, Emirates, Kenya Airways, SN Brussels

and Qatar enable our customers to connect to further points

beyond our current network.

WElCOME ABOARD ThIS AIR UgANDA FlIghT

FOREWORD

a s a n t e | A u g u s t – O c t o b e r 2 0 1 3 | 1

8. Mogadishu’s Warm Welcome This vibrant and fascinating city, Mogadishu, is now becoming a regional business and leisure hub – a sign of great optimism.

12. Painting the City Bright: Jinja’s Celebration of Colour This was a fun-filled event that will long be etched in the memory of the town’s residents.

17. Uganda is Truly the Pearl of Africa Uganda, the warm heart of Africa, offers the visitor unparalleled dramatic landscapes, a profusion of wildlife and unique experiences.

22. How Africa’s Giants Work As the longest land animal on earth, the elephant is not only beautiful and graceful to watch, highly intelligent and curious but stands alone as an engineering marvel.

26. The Kasubi Tombs: Rising from the Ashes Discover one of the most important historical and cultural symbols for Uganda and East Africa as a whole.

32. The Chagga: Africa’s Mountain Men It was simply a pleasure to be among these hardy mountaineers who loved their work and life itself.

36. Cane, Wicker and Bamboo Furniture in East Africa It is probable that the first human seat was a tree branch or log.

40. The Amazing Story of Kitata How fate and talent combined to transform a novice into East Africa’s finest amateur golfer.

44. The Visual Arts in Uganda: Not Yet Nirvana Art in Uganda is on an upward curve: The quality of work has improved, and so have the galleries.

48. The Meaning of Travel Are you a tourist or a traveller?

50. For the Love of the Luwombo The way to a Muganda man’s heart is definitely through that bundle of wrapped and steamed banana leaves!

52. Early Learning & Development in Uganda Uganda is moving towards becoming a society in which all children are active, healthy, knowledgeable and happy.


Jinja’s Celebrations of Colour

The ChaggaAfrica’s Mountain Men

KitataStory of

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The inflight magazine of Air Uganda part of the

Issue 15

Regulars

1. Foreward

4. Air Uganda News

6. What’s Up! East Africa

46. Bookshelf

54. Basic Tips for the Traveller

55. Useful Travel Tips

56. Air Uganda Offices

57. Route Map

58. Abato Corner

59. Air Uganda Flight Schedule

60. Crossword Puzzle & Sudoku

Cover picture: Aboard Air Uganda with a beautiful smile.

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Camerapix Magazines Ltd

Rukhsana Haq

Roger Barnard

Cecilia W. Gaitho

Charles Kamau, Sam Kimani

Azra Chaudhry, U.K

Rose Judha

Rukhsana Haq

Jenifer B. Musiime

Jackie Tumuhairwe

Publishers:

Editorial Director:

Editor:

Editorial Assistant:

Creative Designers:

Production Manager:

Production Assistant:

Editorial Board:

ASANTE meaning ‘Thank you’ in Kiswahili is published quarterly for Air Uganda by Camerapix Magazines Limited | P.O. Box 45048, 00100 GPO Nairobi, KenyaTel: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5 | Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 | E-mail: [email protected]: www.camerapixpublishers.com

Editorial and Advertising Offices: Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited 32 Friars Walk, Southgate, London, N14 5LP Tel: +44 (20) 8361 2942 | Mobile: +44 79411 21458 | E-mail: [email protected]

Air Uganda, Marketing Office | Tel: +256 (0) 414 258 262/4 or +256 (0) 417 717 401Fax: +256 414 500 932 | E-mail: [email protected] or [email protected] House, Plot 4, Wampewo Avenue, KololoWebsite: www.air-uganda.com, www.facebook.com/airugandaCorrespondence on editorial and advertising matters may be sent to either of the above addresses.

©2013

All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced by any means without permission in writing from the publisher. All photographs by Camerapix unless otherwise indicated.

The views expressed in this magazine should only be ascribed to the authors concerned, and do not necessarily reflect the views either of the publishers or of Air Uganda. The printing of an advertisement in Asante does not necessarily mean that the publishers or Air Uganda endorse the company, product or service advertised.

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4 | a s a n t e | A u g u s t – O c t o b e r 2 0 1 3

Mr. Clement Wangira from WBS TV, winner of a ticket bought online, receives a dummy ticket from Mr. Cornwell Muleya, Chief Executive Officer of Air Uganda.

BOOK, PAY AND ChECK IN ONlINE We have introduced a new and improved booking engine that allows you to book, pay and check in online in the comfort of your home or office without having to come to our sales office. You can pay for your ticket using major payment channels like ATM/debit cards, credit cards (Visa, Mastercard), PayPal and mobile money (i.e. M-Pesa & Airtel Money). Once payment is made, the air ticket is delivered to your email address.

“We are always looking for better and more innovative ways to serve our customers,” said Cornwell Muleya, the Air Uganda Chief Executive Officer “Our new booking and payment platform brings the Air Uganda services to your computer and mobile phone and this is a significant development in our ability to service our customers on a

24-hour basis worldwide.”

The first passenger to use M-Pesa to buy her ticket from Nairobi to Entebbe was Ms. Tracy Kyorugyendo who obtained her ticket using the new revamped Air Uganda booking engine. She was able to search for her flight, book, and pay and receive her ticket quickly and easily using the new system.

“It was so easy to pay for my ticket, because all I did was book online and pay for the ticket using M-Pesa on my mobile phone. It saved me so much time because I didn’t have to go all the way to their offices. I am very happy and excited with this innovation by Air Uganda,” Ms. Kyorugyendo, said.

Visit: www.air-uganda.com to book, pay and check in at your convenience.

FlY DIRECT FROM ENTEBBE TO MOgADIShUOn 8 July 2013, Air Uganda touched down at Mogadishu International Airport for the very first time. The airline is offering three weekly direct flights, operating a 50-seater CRJ 200 aircraft.

Air Uganda flights offer the fastest and most convenient flights to Mogadishu as the flight time has been reduced to two hours and no stops have to be made.

There is an introductory fare of USD 450 (one-way) and you are guaranteed on-time performance and the best customer service.

Air Uganda sponsors rally champion, Jas Mangat.

AIR UgANDA NEWS


ROUTES AFRICA 2013 COMES TO UgANDA

Air Uganda is excited to have co-hosted the colourful Routes Africa conference that took place at Munyonyo Resort Beach hotel from 7-9 July 2013. The event, organised by UCAA and Routes Africa, attracted aviation practitioners and airport authorities from all over Africa and the world.

Issues concerning aviation, airports and airlines in Africa were discussed and suggestions to improve the industry were agreed on.

We are proud to have been part of this conference and glad that Uganda was given a chance to showcase its beauty by hosting this prestigious conference.

Thank you for visiting Uganda and please come again!

Mr. Cornwell Muleya, Chief Executive Officer deliveringa route exchange briefing for Air Uganda at the event.


StoryMoja Hay Festival Nairobi The 2013 StoryMoja Hay Festival, Kenya’s premier literary event, will be held on the 19th to 22nd September at Nairobi National Museum, Nairobi. The festival will have over 60 events in 4 days of brilliance.

VENUE: Nairobi National Museum in Nairobi, KenyaWEBSITE: http://www.storymojahayfestival.com

Kenya Fashion Week 2013 The greatest Fashion Event in East-Africa, KFW has positioned itself as the definitive business fashion destination, aimed at showcasing established and emerging designers and labels from Africa and across the globe.

WEBSITE: www.kenyafashionweek.com EMAIL: [email protected]

Welcome to Jahazi Literary & Jazz Festival 2013!You’re invited to a scintillating weekend of open-air jazz concerts, poetry readings, storytelling, great debate, cultural walks and talks, VIP dinners with the stars, and the very best after-parties in town!Enjoy close encounters with some of the world’s most talented writers and musicians. Put your feet up, kick back, and enjoy island-life.

VENUE: Stone Town/ZanzibarWEBSITE: http://www.jahazifestival.com

Maralal Camel Derby The Annual Maralal Camel Derby brings colour and action to the streets of Maralal, considered as the gateway to Kenya’s wild and arid North and a mecca for nomads, camels, adventurers and travellers from all over the globe. This is a great social event where the finest camel jockeys vie for first place during the camel derby. The event is a chance to experience culture, colour, action and adventure first hand.

VENUE: Maralal in northern Kenya

6th Bayimba International Festival of the ArtsEvery third week of September, Kampala comes alive as a vibrant and eventful city when an unparalleled feast of music, dance, theatre, film, and visual arts from renowned and upcoming artists are brought to Kampala. The Festival is eagerly awaited by local artists and local people alike while artists from abroad and visitors from far afield pour into Kampala to take advantage of the exciting artistic experience.

VENUE: Kampala, UgandaWEBSITE: http://www.bayimba.org/2013-bayimba-international-festival

Green Festival“Our environment is our future and our future is our responsibility”Come and see how protecting the environment can be so much fun. Expect to be thrilled. Lots of fun for the whole family …

VENUE: Kololo Airstrip, UgandaWEBSITE: http://www.littlegreenhands.org


Tanzacat Catamaran RegattaThe Tanzacat Regatta is a ten-day event consisting of 10 Olympic Course races and of course a sail to the exotic island of Zanzibar!

It is one of the largest catamaran race events in Africa with over 100 sailor participants and more than 50 catamarans participating every year hence a must attend for sailing enthusiasts from all over the world.

VENUE: Msasani Bay, Dar es Salaam

Uganda International Trade Fair (UGITF) Uganda Manufacturers Association (UMA), the organisers of the Uganda International Trade Fair, invites you to the 21st Uganda International Trade Fair at Lugogo intended to provide a wide platform for displaying products and services to a large audience from all over the world.

VENUE: UMA Show Ground, Lugogo, Kampala, UgandaEMAIL: [email protected]

The Africa Concours d’Elegance Welcome to one of the most prestigious and elegant events on the Kenyan calendar - The 2013 Africa Concours d’Elegance. An initiative of the Alfa Romeo Owners Club and now 42 years old, the event is one of Kenya’s biggest social functions with owners of vintage cars getting to show off their cars and the best awarded for it. In addition, spectators enjoy a day of fun, fashion and glamour.

VENUE: Nairobi Ngong Racecourse, KenyaWEBSITE: http://www.concourskenya.com

Bagamoyo Arts FestivalThe Bagamoyo Arts Festival attracts visitors from all over the world, who come to take part or simply spectate and observe. Traditional dance and music performances, displays of acrobatics, sculpture exhibitions, art workshops, reggae and hiphop concerts, and much more, keep the town buzzing and the people busy for the whole five days of the festival.

VENUE: Bagamoyo, TanzaniaTEL: +255 784 472 745

6th Annual Nile Gold Jazz & Soul Safari

The Annual Nile Gold Jazz Safari 2013 returns for the 6th year. The artist’s line up is incredible and ‘bold’, as we’ll be celebrating the music of Intimacy: Love & Romance…..The Old School Way.

VENUE: Kampala Serena Hotel, UgandaWEBSITE: http://proggie.ug/events/6th-annual-nile-gold-jazz-soul-safari

East Africa Oil and Gas Summit (EAOGS) EAOGS 2013 will build on the success of the 2012 Summit which was co-hosted by the Ministry of Energy, Kenya and Global Event Partners Ltd and was a resounding success welcoming 326 delegates from over 170 regional and international companies attended with delegates coming from 29 countries. EAOGS has firmly made its mark as the most prestigious, annual Oil & Gas Summit for the whole East Africa region with excellent feedback from delegates across the board.

VENUE: Hotel Intercontinental, Nairobi, KenyaWEBSITE: http://www.eaogs.com


Somalia’s capital is transforming itself from a war-torn city to a regional business and leisure hub. Optimism and hospitality are the order of the day, reports Reto Kuster.

Mogadishu’sWarm Welcome

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Ret

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NEWDESTINATION


DESTINATION

1 0 | a s a n t e | A u g u s t – O c t o b e r 2 0 1 3

Forget about what you have heard

about Mogadishu in the past”, a

returning Somali businessman

told me on the plane.

‘Mogadishu these days is a very different

city.’ After landing, I stroll towards the

neat, renovated and well-guarded airport

building that has seen all the violence of

the past. I quickly pass the immigration

formalities and am on my way into what

has been rated as the most feared city

on the continent.

Surprisingly, contemporary Mogadishu

streets are largely devoid of armed men.

Instead, any drive through Mogadishu

reveals the change since the fighting

stopped in mid-2011. Buildings are

being renovated, lorries with building

materials drive up and down, and the

walls of most shops are freshly painted in

bright colours. People relax, drinking tea

from small roadside stalls, often owned

by women. I prefer to head for fruits as

refreshment in the hot and humid coastal

climate. Mohamed sells fresh oranges,

“ papayas, mangosteen, soursap, bananas

and other mouthwatering fruits on the

roadside in the busy Hamarwenye district.

‘Business is good’, he explains, ‘because

people now go where they want to, and

more money is changing hands. Even

getting fruits from outside Mogadishu has

become easier and cheaper.’ I hand him

a wad of 1,000 Somali Shilling notes –

the only denomination available. Some

shopowners prefer payment as a transfer

via the mobile phone, while for bigger

transactions, dollars are common.

Walking around, I get curious – yet friendly

– looks. Two boys suddenly stop playing

and stare at me, then burst into laughter.

For years, Mogadishu has been off-limits

to foreigners, and its people are pleased to

see the return of visitors. Before the war,

Mogadishu was popular among foreign

visitors to East Africa. I remember a friend

explaining how much he liked Mogadishu

in the 1980s, its brighly white facades of

the merchant houses, the Italian touch of

the cafés and the hospitable people.

a s a n t e | A u g u s t – O c t o b e r 2 0 1 3 | 1 1

Today, Mogadishu airport is busy again. However,

most visitors these days are Somalis from the

diaspora. They return in large numbers to a country

most have not been to in the past two decades.

As a result of the boom, new hotels have opened

their doors. But there is more than just the busy

city. Along a track through the coastal sands, we

head to the west. Between shrubs and huge sand

dunes, camels and goats eat the little green they can

get. We stop by a lagoon, where about two dozen

flamingoes stand graciously in the salty water. Not

far away, salt is being processed locally and then

sold in Mogadishu’s markets. Two women in bright

orange headscarves chat and laugh, completely

ignoring the intense heat.

Finally, we arrive at Jazeera beach with its white

sand and shallow, warm water. On Thursdays

and Fridays Jazeera beach is packed with Somalis

enjoying peace and tranquility, playing football and

volleyball or swimming in the warm Indian Ocean

water. Excellent lobsters and cold sodas are sold in

the beachside restaurant. Many of the customers

are Somalis spending their holidays in Mogadishu.

“I haven’t been back to Somalia for almost twenty

years”, Osman, a Somali engineer who lives in

the United Kingdom says. “I wanted to see with

my own eyes what’s going on in Mogadishu. Next

time I will bring my wife and family along.” Hassan,

living in Canada, is delighted: “Look at this beach!

I believe tourism could play a big role in the future

here. There are so many opportunities.”

As we return to Mogadishu, a group of a dozen

camels is being navigated through the busy K4

roundabout in the city centre by two men. Traffic

has increased to the point where in the morning

and late afternoons, there are now traffic jams in

Somalia’s capital – something unheard of for years.

Some parts of Mogadishu now even enjoy street

lights at night. Finally, I head to one of the many

primary schools in Mogadishu. Boys and girls are

eager learners, and when I ask about their plans

for the future, I see expressions of joy in their

faces. “Engineer”, “teacher”, ‘pilot’, ‘computer specialist’ are some of the

answers!

Back in the hotel, I sample fresh tuna fish, a spicy soup and spaghetti.

Somalis’ love for spaghetti is probably the most common reminder

of Italy’s colonial past in Somalia. In the late afternoon an elderly

lady approaches me, asking whether I would be interested in buying

postcards. Postcards from Somalia? ‘‘Indeed’’, she says, and unwraps

two dozen postcards dating back to the 1970s. During the fighting, she

had hidden the postcards, hoping that one day peace would prevail. Many

of the buildings on the photographs have fallen victim to the war. Yet,

I bought some, as a historical reminder – and as a sign of optimism for

this vibrant, fascinating city. •

Note: Foreign visitors are advised to arrange security and pick-up from the airport before their arrival in Mogadishu.

Air Uganda flies 3 times a week to Mogadishu, Somalia.



BrightThe White Nile near Jinja, Uganda’s second-largest city, has become known as the adventure sports capital of East Africa. Peter holthusen reports on an exciting new project.



FUN EvENT

Several months ago it was my good

fortune to receive a telephone call from

a very dear friend in Croatia called Steve

Enstone and his partner, Sarah Larsson

informing me of an exciting new project with which

they were associated in Uganda.

Jinja was to host an exciting new campaign dubbed

‘Painting The City Bright’, which would begin with a

relay from Jinja to Skellefteå in Northern Sweden,

where glass bottles shaped in the form of the Nile

perch, tilapia and hippopotamus would be filled with

water drawn from the source of the Nile, then carried

along the Nile, across the Mediterranean, through

Europe to Sweden. The event was to culminate in

the first ever African Ice Swimming Championships in

Jinja – inspired by the city of Skellefteå where, for the

last two years, both the Swedish and Scandinavian

winter swimming championships were held. The

brainchild of Steve Babb’s Skellefteå-based ‘Big

Steve from England’ initiative, thousands of people

had already started painting 66 houses on Main

Street in cheerful colours in preparation for the event.

On 4 May 2013, the plans came to fruition when

Jinja and Uganda extended a hand of friendship to

European cities associated with the source of the

Nile in a unique opportunity to showcase Ugandan

tourism, investment opportunities and the ever-

smiling people who cherish their country.

Like the momentum of the celebrated Olympic

Torch, Jinja invented its own slogan for the historic

relay to Northern Sweden: ‘Big Hearts Create

Big Smiles’. The customised glass bottles the

competitors carried represented the iconic fish and

animals with strong symbolic meaning borrowed

from Uganda’s rich cultural heritage. These bottles,

filled with water from the source of the Nile, were

given out along the route with a message of love as

a gesture of the country’s renowned hospitality and

brotherhood.

At the opening ceremony Uganda’s President,

Yoweri Museveni, proudly took part in the campaign

to paint Jinja bright, then walked through the town

meeting and greeting some of its joyous residents.

Below: Jinja recently hosted an exciting new tourism campaign dubbed ‘Painting The City Bright’, which included the participation of thousands of its residents who volunteered their time to paint 66 houses on Main Street in the cheerful colours of the Nation.

Phot

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Pet

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temperature in order to be allowed to call an event “winter

swimming”.

“It was not easy to achieve this in the heat. But with the

persistence and a lot of muscle power both from us in the

team and the hotel staff we achieved it,” said Craig Dixon,

executive producer for the films with Big Steve.

On 11 March 2013, Jinja residents had carried out a test run in

preparation for the actual competition. A lane on Main Street

was closed off and a pool filled with iced water was placed in

the centre. The temperature was +1˚C, and the Mayor of Jinja,

Mohammed Baswari Kezaala was first into the water. “What a

lovely experience, I felt immense joy when I stepped out,” said

Mayor Kezaala afterwards.

An enthusiastic crowd gathered to cheer the participants of

the first African Ice Swimming Championships at the Jinja Nile

Resort on 13 May 2013. There were entries from the host

country Uganda, Kenya, Tanzania, the Democratic Republic of

Congo and other African countries and also swimmers from

Sweden, Norway, Finland and the United Kingdom. No less

than 50 people competed for the title. Fastest of all was

FEATURE

History was also written in May, when the first-ever African Ice

Swimming Championships were staged in the swimming pool

at the Jinja Nile Resort, the flagship hotel of the Nairobi-based

Mada Hotels group. The process of lowering the temperature

of the water to 10˚C or less required large quantities of ice,

and for this facility the organisers of the event called upon a

local ice company that the fishing industry uses to cool the

day’s catch from Lake Victoria.

When the first Swedish winter swimming championships were

held in Skellefteå in 2012, the air temperature was -34˚C;

however in Jinja the temperature can be as high as +35˚C,

a huge contrast between the bitter cold of Scandinavia and

the oppressive heat of the Equator. In order to succeed in

implementing the event, the swimming pool was filled with

50 tonnes of ice.

For three days, the ‘Big Steve From England’ team from

Skellefteå, the Dark & Cold winter swimming voluntary group,

which is connected to the International Winter Swimming

Association, and the Uganda Swimming Federation filled

the pool with ice and managed to bring down the water

temperature to below 10˚C, which is the IWSA’s maximum

A world-class concert was also held on the final day of the event, where Jamaican reggae icons Inner Circle made their first appearance in Africa, alongside a variety of other reggae bands from Uganda and Sweden.


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This is because the 70 kilometres stretch of the Nile north

of Jinja is now a mecca for white-water rafting, river surfing,

kayaking, bungee jumping, jet-boat riding and quad biking.

The Bujagali Falls, an hour’s drive east of Kampala, is the

launching point for a commercial white-water rafting route

that ranks as one of the most thrilling and safest in the world,

passing through three heart-stopping grade five rapids in

one day.

There are several companies offering a variety of itineraries

without compromise. A typical itinerary would include a

transfer from your hotel at Jinja where the mighty Nile begins

its journey to the Mediterranean Sea. After a full safety

demonstration you will then enjoy a half-day adventure white-

water rafting. With lots of good rapids, including the mighty

‘Itanda’ (The Bad Place) and a beautiful river with spectacular

flora and fauna, there are some very exciting sections with

space between to lay back and float along taking in the scenery

and enjoying the wildlife, particularly the many species of birds

to be found here.

Two kilometres upstream beside the Jinja Nile Resort is the

Nile High Camp which has a 44 metre bungee jump. Here,

intrepid jumpers leap from a 12 metre cantilevered steel

structure on top of a towering cliff above the Nile. If you want

an extra adrenaline rush, there is the option of being dipped

into the river on a longer bungee. Often performing at this site

is the ‘Ugandan Acrobatic’ Jeremiah Bazale.

Fishing for Nile perch and tilapia attracts many anglers to

the Bujagali Falls. The fast-flowing waters above and below

the falls are probably the best places from which to cast off.

The king of the freshwater fish is without doubt the massive

Nile perch, while the much smaller, rather bony tilapia which

makes good eating, can be found on the menus of many of

Kampala’s finest restaurants.

A visit to this enchanting town on the shores of Africa’s largest

lake will not disappoint. It is the human psyche that demands

we discover and explore. If you’re seeking an adrenaline rush

amidst some of the most spectacular scenery in Uganda, you’ll

be well rewarded for charting a course to Jinja, home to the

most colourful streets in Africa! •

16-year-old John Lule whose prize was a trip to next year’s

Scandinavian winter swimming championships in Sweden.

Jinja’s Mayor, who inaugurated the competition by himself

dipping into the ice, intends to make this an annual event.

In connection with the ‘Painting The City Bright’ tourism

campaign, there was also a spectacular carnival on Main Street

with musicians, dancers and other artists. A world-class concert

was also held on the final day of the event, where Jamaican

reggae icons, Inner Circle, made their first appearance in Africa

alongside a variety of other reggae bands from Uganda and

Sweden.

At the show dubbed ‘Reggae on the Nile’, Inner Circle brought

their special brand of pop-orientated Jamaican beats and

energy-filled live performance to Ugandans at the Crested Crane

Hotel. The concert was organised by Metro Green Uganda in

partnership with Jinja Municipal Council and kicked off with

performances from the Swedish Nine Miles reggae band.

Afrigo Band’s famous Rachael Magoola stepped in to join

Governor and Ivon to perform the theme song ‘Paint The City

Bright’. Other Ugandan local artists like Ragga Dee and Gen.

Megga Dee also performed for the crowd alongside DJ Mosh. It

was a fun-filled event that will long be etched in the memory of

the town’s residents.

Less than 18 years ago, tourism activity on the Nile north of

Jinja was limited to a peaceful and rather obscure picnic site

at the Bujagali Falls – a series of impressive rapids about 10

kilometres (6 miles) downriver of the source of the Nile visited

by a handful of travellers annually. Today, the eastern bank

of the Nile between Jinja and Bujagali has developed into a

world-class adventure-tourism centre, serviced by four bustling

backpacker facilities, and an upmarket tented camp and hotel.

In connection with the ‘Painting The City Bright’ tourism campaign, there was also a spectacular carnival on Main Street with musicians, dancers and other artists.


Uganda, the warm heart of Africa, offers the visitor unparalleled dramatic landscapes, a profusion of wildlife and unique experiences, Asante reports.

FEATURE

Uganda is Truly the PEARL OF AFRICA

The magnificent Murchison Falls.

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Uganda, once the ‘Pearl of Africa’ has cast off the

layers of its grim past and now stands proudly

lustrous. After a decade of peace the land is

flourishing, the towns and cities bustling with

trade and activity, the economy expanding and the people as

welcoming as always.

Straddling the Equator in the heart of Africa, Uganda is blessed

with an abundance of natural assets. The size of Britain and

lying between the two clefts of the Rift Valley, Uganda’s terrain

ranges from snow-capped mountains to lake-filled valleys,

from extinct volcanoes to highland plateaux. The country’s

varied beauty is breathtaking.

Nicknamed the ‘Breadbasket of Africa’, Uganda is one of the

most fertile countries on the continent. It receives more than

2,000 millimetres (78 inches) of annual rain feeding streams,

rivers and lakes, which cover 25 per cent of its surface. The

resulting vegetation — tropical rain forests, savannah scrub

and Afro-alpine flora — are host to an awe-inspiring variety

of wildlife including the threatened gorilla. The current

government, to retain its splendour for everyone’s enjoyment

today and in the future, is jealously guarding this entire rich

heritage.

Some of Uganda’s features are outstanding. The country

boasts the second largest fresh water lake in the world, Lake

Victoria, where the boundaries of Uganda, Tanzania and Kenya

converge and the River Nile starts its 6,400 kilometres (3,977

miles) journey to the Mediterranean. Close to Lake Albert in

the west, the Nile waters are thrust through a 6-metre (20-

foot) gash in the rocks producing the awesome spectacle of

Murchison Falls plummeting 42 metres (138 feet).

The force of the river, harnessed by the Owen Falls Dam near

its source at Jinja, provides the country with its major electricity

supply and much of its earnings; both Tanzania and Kenya also

benefit from this hydroelectricity scheme.

Other commercially exploitable assets include rich sources of

minerals and metals such as phosphates, graphite, magnetite,

dolomite and limestone, copper and gold, and — potentially —

oil in the Rift Valley.

The major cash crops include coffee, cotton, tea, tobacco

and maize. The natural fertility and abundant rainfall allow

farmers to produce two or even three crops a year. Future

developments look to other horticultural products such as

vegetables and flowers for export to Europe and the Middle

East.

Diversity of the land is reflected in the diversity of the people.

Although there are four major groups — Bantu, Nilotic, Nilo-

Hamitic and Sudanic comprising over 33 ethnic groups,

speaking over 40 languages — the people are united in their

efforts to a prosperous Uganda.

Uganda has a rich history dating back 500,000 years when,

according to fossil evidence, early humans inhabited the

western Rift Valley. The Bantus have an agricultural heritage;

Visit the Rwenzori to explore and view the fascinating vegetation. Sport fishing, Lake Victoria The crested crane, Uganda’s striking national bird.


On arrival, visitors are impressed by the modern, efficient

Entebbe airport run on international standards. It has been

greatly renovated and expanded.

Entebbe is only half-an-hour’s lakeside drive from the thriving

capital, Kampala, also on the shores of Lake Victoria. The

capital was once the site of a Bugandan palace where the

royal impala grazed. From this picturesque tradition the city

derived its name: Kasozi ka Impala or Hill of Antelopes. But

rather than one hill, Kampala,

like legendary Rome, was built

on seven. The original hill,

on which British explorer and

adventurer, Captain Frederick

Lord Lugard, built a fort and

administrative post, is now

known as Old Kampala Hill.

The fort still stands and although the government offices have

moved to Nakasero Hill, now the city centre, it is one of the

main tourist attractions of the city.

Other places of interest to visitors include the prestigious

Makerere University — the first in East Africa; the National

Museum housing several cultural, ethnological and musical

collections; the imposing Parliament Buildings; the ancient

Bugandan Kasubi Tombs; the macabre Martyrs’ Shrine and other

religious centres including the Baha’i Temple unique in Africa.

Kampala is one of the most pleasant cities to walk around. Not

only is it safe from muggings and pestering but the pleasant

by 5,000 BC Bantu groups living in the west, south and east

of modern Uganda tilled the land and smelted iron, later

adopting south-east Asia crops such as yams and bananas ––

which are today’s staple food crops for the average family.

Pastoral immigrants from the Ethiopian region intermarried

with the agricultural Bantus and established pastoral

aristocracies in western and central Uganda. Nilotic nomadic

groups migrated from the north by the first millennium AD

and eventually established

the dynasty of Bunyoro.

For centuries the various

groups have traversed

the Ugandan plateaux,

merging and clashing and

establishing new groups

and languages. Out of these diverse groups developed several

states or kingdoms: in the west and centre the original

Bachwezi empire, later superseded by the centralised kingdoms

of Bunyoro and Nkore which in turn became dominated by

the more cohesive and liberal kingdom of Buganda. Buganda

continued to dominate until colonisation in the late 1800s.

In the late 1700s, Arab and European traders of cloth, utensils

and guns, in exchange for ivory and slaves, were closely

followed by Muslim and Christian missionaries, explorers such

as Grant and Speke, and finally European colonialists. After

innumerable political squabbles amongst the colonial powers,

Uganda eventually became a British Protectorate in 1894.

Most visitors, of course, are attracted to this distinct country by its game parks, its majestic

mountains and lush landscapes.

White-water rafting on the White Nile. Kibale Hooting Chimp


Other much-visited destinations include the lush, forested

western highlands fringed by the ‘Mountains of the Moon’. The

area boasts three lakes named after British Queen Victoria’s

sons, four national parks and several forest reserves. Each of

these magnificent parks has unique features and ecosystems.

Kibale National Park is the wettest of the parks offering a

unique moist evergreen forest habitat hosting a profusion

of primates and diverse wildlife. But the priceless jewel of

them all is Rwenzori Mountains National Park or ‘Mountains

of the Moon’. It is a land of mists and mysterious rock and ice

formations, weird overgrown vegetation, and the echoing, eerie

climate and temperature, enhanced by cool lake breezes

and the green landscaped streets make it a delightful place

to meander in. It may rain most days, but the wettest and

possibly less pleasant months are February to April and October

to December.

The visitor is spoilt for choice when it comes to hotels,

restaurants and cafes. Local and international cuisines are on

offer as is accommodation to suit every one’s taste and pocket.

Almost every week new hotels, apartments and places for

refreshment open their doors, making Kampala a dynamic,

energizing city.

Most visitors, of course, are attracted to this distinct country by

its game parks, its majestic mountains and lush landscapes.

A trip to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in the southwest is

a unique experience for even the most sophisticated world

traveller.

Visitors may also be tempted by guided hikes and climbs

through the park or a trip to the Garama Cave, once home to

Iron Age communities.

Nearby Bwindi Impenetrable National Park— containing one

of the largest natural forests in East Africa including six square

kilometres of bamboo — offers another rare opportunity

to view the gorillas but the dense undergrowth makes the

trekking more challenging and is not to be undertaken by the

faint-hearted. However the rich ecosystem makes the effort

worthwhile.

screeches of the nocturnal hyrax. Such are the opportunities

of this park; it takes a minimum of six or seven days to savour

its splendours.

But no matter which part of Uganda toured, the mode of

travel or the time of year, the visitor will be amazed by the

spectacular landscapes, the warmth of the people and the

diversity of wildlife.

Most will agree that little appears to have changed since

the 1900s when Winston Churchill exclaimed in My African

Journey, “For magnificence, for variety of form and colour, for

profusion of brilliant life — plant, bird, insect, reptile, beast —

for vast scale . . . Uganda is truly the Pearl of Africa.” •

Lioness spotted in Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Male kob, Queen Elizabeth National Park.

a s a n t e | A u g u s t – O c t o b e r 2 0 1 3 | 2 1 a s a n t e M a y – J u l y 2 0 1 3 | 2 7



Giants W rkH w Africa’s ‘‘The first time I met an elephant it walked right up to my vehicle, stuck its trunk through the window and took in my scent, deciding I was tolerable’’, says James Michael Dorsey.

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Jam

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WILDLIFE


Besides being used for eating, drinking, and smelling, the trunk is an integral part of socialising, and they use it to caress and interlock with other elephants’ trunks much like humans shake hands.

As the largest land animal on earth, the elephant

is not only beautiful and graceful to watch, highly

intelligent and curious, but stands alone as an

engineering marvel.

First of all it should be mentioned that there are both Asian

and African elephants. The Africans, that are found in 37

different countries, are easily identified by their oversized ears

and larger girth, plus they have far less hair than the Asian

variety. The ears of the African species are a great place to

start learning about these magnificent giants.

Elephants have no sweat glands but most of them live in hot

climates and must cool off periodically. A close look at their

ear will reveal it to be so thin as to show all the veins and

capillaries when a light is shone through it. Elephants can

regulate the flow of blood into their ears where it is cooled by

the outside air and this is one reason you see them flapping

those ears so often, acting as a natural fan.

Even though their skin is leather tough they sunburn easily, so

they spend much of their time in water when it is available;

if not, they pick up dirt with their trunks and throw it over

their back and head for protection. A male African elephant

will stand 3 to 4 metres (10-13 feet) tall at the shoulders

while a female will reach 2 metres (7-8 feet). An adult male

can weigh up to 5,450 kilogrammes (about 12,000 pounds),

while a female might reach 3,650 kilogrammes (about 8,000

pounds). Because of this they are the only known animal that

lacks the ability to jump. They have a life span of 50-70 years

and the oldest one on record reached 82 years. They become

sexually active at about 20 years of age.

WILDLIFE


These giants are among the best swimmers in all of Africa, using their large flat feet like paddles, and are – despite their bulk – very buoyant.

consume their body weight. Since there is little nutrition in the

grass and stalks that dominate their diet, they have a small sack

known as a caecum in their lower intestine that allows bacteria

to break up the minimal nutrients and ferments them for use.

This caecum is in the place where humans have an appendix.

Like most animal vegetarians they have no canine teeth. They

do not have individual teeth at all, but in their place there is

one long, wide tooth with ridges, in both the upper and lower

jaw that is used to grind their herbal diet. These teeth grow

constantly from rear to front, pushing the older section forward,

and in time, after much use, they break off in flat sections, like

slices from a loaf of bread. This insures constant replacement

with new and strong chewing capacity.

Many people think only male elephants have tusks. This is true

of Asian elephants, but the African females have them also;

they are simply vestigial, inside the mouth and too small to

see unless you are able to open their mouth and get inside.

An elephants’ tusks take the place of human incisors and are

used for both digging food and for fighting, a most formidable

weapon. The word elephant itself comes from ancient Greece

and means, ‘ivory.’

Their bones, especially the leg bones, are massive compared

to any other animal and have no marrow compartment inside,

making them more like support columns than bones. These in

turn are supported by multiple layers of muscles that, unlike

other smaller animals whose muscles follow the pattern of the

arm or leg, in the elephant, run at various angles across the

bones, crisscrossing each other like a jigsaw puzzle, and acting

as a fulcrum to hold up the massive weight. This gigantic

load would crush most other bone structures, especially when

the entire weight of approximately four tonnes is applied

to a single leg when they run, but the elephant also has a

gelatinous cushion in its heel that absorbs much of the shock

and distributes it across the large flat foot with each step.

Another unique feature is their lungs which, unlike those of

a human, are directly connected to their rib cage that helps

to inflate them as they walk. If they were a separate organ,

as in humans, the elephant’s weight would not allow them to

breathe.

They eat no meat, and being herbivores they will graze for

up to 18 hours per day, taking in up to 272 kilogrammes

(600 pounds) of fodder per day and taking about 20 days to

WILDLIFE


who predominately claims these trees. While some may find

this to be funny, the animal is extremely vulnerable to smaller

predators while in this state.

I have had many personal encounters with elephants during

my travels on the continent and have learned to read much

of their body language. For the most part they are peaceful

creatures but will fight with fury when threatened, especially if

they have young or infirm in the herd. If you get too close they

will flare their ears and trumpet a warning, and if that does not

work, a bluff charge will usually warn off the intruder. They are

known to have tight knit family groups, usually ruled over by an

aging matriarch, and will gather to defend a wounded comrade.

When the herd is threatened they will circle, placing babies and

females inside, while the bulls face outward with their tusks

ready to defend them. When one of the herd dies they will linger

around the body for days, caressing it lovingly with their trunks,

and while we lack the ability to directly communicate with them,

it is believed that elephants are among the most intelligent

animals in all of Africa.

We know elephants have been around since prehistoric times

as DNA (deoxyribonucleic acid) tests have shown that they

are directly linked to the extinct woolly mammoth. They have

survived all the natural disasters a continent experiences

over millennia and are still there, but with poaching an ever

increasing problem, the elephant may now face its most serious

impediment to survival ever: man. •

Opposite:Flared ears are a warning to intruders.

Right: Youngster trumpeting.

Because their tusks are ivory and quite valuable

to poachers, many biologists believe that an

accelerated evolutionary process has begun

in which the size of the male tusks is rapidly

diminishing as a natural defence against this

poaching, and that if it continues, in a few more

generations, elephants may lose their tusks

entirely, but that in turn may save the species

from being hunted to extinction.

The most fascinating and complex part of this

animal has to be the trunk with its 150,000

separate muscles that not only allow it completely

free rotational movement, but also the delicate

flexibility to pick up an object the size of a small

pebble. It is strong enough to uproot a tree, and

when an elephant stands on its hind legs to reach

the tastiest part of the tallest tree branches it

may reach 5 metres (15 feet) from the ground.

Besides being used for eating, drinking, and

smelling, the trunk is an integral part of

socialising, and they use it to caress and interlock

with other elephants’ trunks much like humans

shake hands. They touch each other in every day

interaction much as human friends do. They do

not take food through the trunk to eat but pick it

up and hold it while transferring it to their mouth.

They do drink water through the trunk and it will

hold up to two and a half gallons. When they

drink they can consume 364 litres (80 gallons)

of water at a time. The trunk is also used as a

snorkel while swimming and, by the way, these

giants are among the best swimmers in all of

Africa, using their large flat feet like paddles, and

are – despite their bulk – very buoyant.

Another trait they do share with humans is their

taste for alcohol. There is a tree in Africa known as

the Marula that is an elephant favourite. Its fruit

ferments quickly once ingested and literally makes

the elephant falling-down drunk. Other animals

such as monkeys have discovered its properties

and make use of them also but it is the elephant

It is believed that elephants are among the most intelligent animals in all of Africa.


Peter holthusen reports on the reconstruction of the sacred Buganda burial site, and UNESCO (United Nations Educational Scientific and Cultural Organization) World heritage Centre.

The Kasubi Tombs Rising from the Ashes

On the morning of 16 March 2010, the residents of Kampala

were awakened by news of a devastating fire that almost

completely destroyed some of the major buildings at their

beloved Kasubi Tombs – the ancestral burial ground of the

Buganda Kings and one of Uganda’s most cherished UNESCO World

Heritage Sites.

The following day, His Majesty the Kabaka of Buganda, Ronald

Muwenda Mutebi II, and the President of Uganda, Yoweri Museveni,

visited the tombs to assess the damage. Hundreds of people from all

over the country also travelled to the site to help salvage any remains.

Although arson was initially suspected, the cause of the fire is as yet

unknown and the Buganda Kingdom has already started to rebuild the

tombs of their ancient Kings. President Museveni has confirmed the

Government of Uganda will assist in the restoration of the site.

Following the fire, the Government set up a judicial commission of

inquiry chaired by Justice Stephen George Engwau to establish the cause

of the inferno. The commission was also tasked to assess the security

status at the time of the incident in addition to inquiring into the capacity

of the persons in charge of the site at the time. The probe team recently

finalised its report and handed it over to the gender ministry under

whose responsibility, heritage and culture falls.

During the course of a recent visit to the site, the new Katikiiro

(Prime Minister of Buganda), Charles Peter Mayiga, vowed to make

the reconstruction of the Kasubi Tombs his priority. “It will be my first

responsibility which I will do and finish”, he later said to reporters.

FEATURE

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On 1 March 2013, the project received a further boost when

UNESCO signed an agreement to provide logistic, technical,

scientific and financial assistance for the reconstruction

of the tombs. The participants at the signing ceremony

in Paris included Elizabeth Paula Napeyok, Ambassador

Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary of the Republic of Uganda

to France; Kishore Rao, Director of the UNESCO World

Heritage Centre, and Lazare Eloundou Assomo, Chief of the

Africa Unit at the World Heritage Centre.

The ancestral Tombs of the Buganda Kings at Kasubi

constitute a site embracing almost 30 hectares of rolling

countryside on Kasubi Hill, five kilometres from Kampala

city centre, along the Kampala-Hoima Road. Most of the

site is agricultural, farmed by traditional methods, and

bears eloquent witness to the living cultural heritage of the

Baganda people.

Its place as the burial ground of the previous four Kabakas

or ‘Kings’, qualifies the Kasubi Tombs as a major spiritual

centre for the Royal Family, a place where the Kabaka and his

representatives carry out important rituals related to Buganda

culture. The site represents a religious sanctuary where

Among the visitors to the site were the Buganda Minister

of Culture and Tourism, Hajji Mohammed Ssekimpi, and

other Kingdom officials. The technical team in charge of the

renovations at the tombs, led by Hubert Robert Kibuka, guided

the Katikiiro through the tombs.

In 2011, the Kingdom of Buganda contracted the Kampala-

based Omega Construction Ltd to undertake the restoration

of the tombs at an estimated cost of Shs 2 billion ($ 1m).

Despite initial delays in the reconstruction of the site, some

structures such as the administration offices, visitor centre,

toilets and the surrounding fence, among others, have now

been completed.

The Project Manager, Jonathan Nsubuga, who made the

architectural drawings, said: “the tombs would be rebuilt to

their original state using materials such as grass and reeds”.

He added, however, “the future development would include

the incorporation of fire, smoke detectors and state-of-the-

art firefighting equipment to alleviate the risk of future fires”.

The work is estimated to take about a year to complete and

is being supervised by Pius Mugerwa Mugalasi of Omega

Construction.

FEATURE


communication links with the spiritual world are still maintained.

At its core on the hilltop is the main tomb building, locally referred to as

the Muzibu Azaala Mpanga which is a masterpiece of this ensemble. A

tomb building has been in existence on the site since the 13th century.

The latest building was the former palace of the Kabakas of Buganda,

built in 1882 and converted into the Royal burial ground in 1884.

Its special organisation, starting from the border of the site marked with

traditional bark cloth trees, leading through the gatehouse, the main

courtyard, and culminating in the large thatched building, housing the

tombs of the four Kabakas, represents the finest existing example of a

Buganda palace and burial site.

The main tomb building, which is circular and surmounted by a dome,

is a major example of an architectural achievement that was raised with

the use of vegetal materials comprised of wooden poles, spear grass,

reeds, wattle and daub. Its unusual scale and outstanding details bear

witness to the creative genius of the Baganda and as a masterpiece

of form and craftsmanship.

The authenticity of the Tombs of the Kings of Buganda at Kasubi is

reflected in the continuity of the traditional and cultural practices that

are associated with the site. The original burial system of the Kabakas

is still being maintained. The placement of Muzibu Azaala Mpanga in

Opposite: The Kasubi Tombs constructed in traditional fashion, with thatch, poles and reeds. The tombs are housed in a huge domed structure that holds the remains of four former kings of Buganda, namely Mutesa I, Mwanga II, Daudi Chwa II, and Edward Mutesa II.

the middle of the other buildings around the large

D-shaped central courtyard (Olugya), with a forecourt

containing the royal drum house and entry gatehouse,

are a typical ensemble of the Buganda Kingdom

palace. The practice of using a grass thatched roof

resting on structural rings of palm tree fronds is still

being maintained as well as the internal elements

and finishing materials such as the long wooden

poles wrapped in bark cloth decoration.

Although the authenticity of the site has been

weakened by the loss to the fire of the main tomb

structure, the building’s traditional architectural

craftsmanship and the required skills are still available

to allow it to be recreated. This factor, coupled with

the extensive documentation of the building, will

allow an authentic renewal of this key attribute.

The Baganda belong to the Bantu-speaking people

and date their political civilisation back to the 13th

century. According to oral traditions, the first Kabaka

of Buganda was Kintu. He is said to have come with

his wife Nambi, whose hand he won by performing

heroic deeds at the command of her father Ggulu,

the god of the sky. Kabaka Kintu is said not to have


died but to have disappeared into a forest at Magonga. At

Kasubi and in all other Royal tombs, there is an area behind a

bark cloth (lubugo) curtain known as “Kibira” or forest, where

certain secret ceremonies are performed. At the Kasubi Tombs

the Kibira is the area where the real tombs of the Kabakas are

located, while in front of the curtain there are raised platforms

corresponding to the position of each Kabaka’s tomb behind

the curtain.

The first Kabaka to be buried at Kasubi was Muteesa I, the

35th King of Buganda. He became a very powerful King, the

first to be influenced by foreign cultures. Muteesa I adopted

some Islamic religious practices learnt from the ivory and

slave traders from Zanzibar. He also showed interest in

Europe after acting as host in 1862 to John Hanning Speke,

the first European visitor. In 1875 he asked Henry Morton

Stanley, the explorer, for teachers of European learning and

religion. Some surviving artefacts reflect this pivotal period

in local history when the Baganda were first exposed to

Arab traders and European explorers.

When Muteesa I died in 1884, he broke two traditions:

his body was buried whole and it was buried in his palace,

Kasubi. This practice was followed when, in 1910, the

remains of his successor, Mwanga II were brought back from

the Seychelles and also buried there, establishing Kasubi as

an important burial place of the Kabakas of Buganda. This

status was reinforced when his son and successor, Daudi

Chwa II, died in 1939 and was also buried there.

His son and successor, Sir Edward Muteesa II, was at first

in conflict with Britain and then, after independence in

1962 he became the first President of Uganda, with his

own Prime Minister. Kasubi was stormed in 1966 and the

President went into exile in the United Kingdom, but after

he died in 1969 his remains were returned to Kampala

and buried at Kasubi in 1971. Four successive Kabakas of

Buganda were therefore buried in the same tomb house at

Kasubi, the building which is at the core of this UNESCO

World Heritage Site. Each Prince and Princess who is a

descendant of the four Kabakas is also buried there behind

the main shrine.

Kabaka Ronald Mutebi II was crowned as the Kabaka of

Buganda, and in 1997 the Kasubi Tombs were returned

to the Buganda Kingdom, which is today one of the four

Kingdoms in Uganda. The site serves as an important

historical and cultural symbol for Uganda and East Africa as

a whole, and is unquestionably one of the most attractive

tourist sites in the country. Small wonder, there is such a

determined effort to see the Kasubi Tombs rise from the

ashes! •

Left: The entire structure of the entrance portal to the Muzibu Azaala Mpanga is made from grass, a variety of fibres, and stems of tree saplings.

Phot

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Pete

r Ho

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James Michael Dorsey climbs Kilimanjaro with the ‘Sherpas of Africa’.

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Dav

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Africa’s Mountain MenThe Chagga

DESTINATION

Climbers descending from the summit.


The history of Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s tallest

mountain, is as thickly shrouded in mystery as the

billowing clouds that often hide its snowy summit.

Even its name is a mystery as no one is sure where it came

from or what it means. Depending on whom you talk to it

is a combination of the Chagga words, ‘Kilimo’, meaning

impossible, and ‘Jyaro’ meaning caravan, thus an extremely

difficult trip. Others claim it comes from the Swahili words

Mavenji and Kibo that mean Mountain of greatness, but there

are countless other versions, too numerous to mention, and just

as many authors have spelled it in as many ways over the years.

If you have experienced the wonder of standing on the summit

of Africa at 5,895 metres, (19,341 feet) you may not even realise

that the person who guided you there was most likely a Chagga

tribesman; over the years the Chagga have gained the reputation

and nickname of ‘Sherpas of Africa’.

The first written reference to the mountain was by Ptolemy

of Alexandria in Egypt who in about 50 AD wrote of a “great

snow mountain”. Almost 1,000 years passed with little else

being mentioned until small references began to appear in

the writings of Arab, Chinese, and Portuguese merchants. In

1848 a Christian missionary named Rebman is believed to be

the first white man to set eyes on the mountain, and in 1889

a german geology professor named hans Meyer and his

cartographer assistant, Oscar Bauman, are credited with being

the first to reach the summit on 18th October. At that time it

was estimated that around 11,000 people lived on or near the

base of the mountain. They lived in thatched huts in the shape

of beehives. These were the Chagga.

It is generally believed that the Chagga migrated south after a large

earthquake in the great Rift Valley some 250-500 years ago where

they found the Wakonyingo, Wangassa, Ungo, and a pygmy tribe

whose name is now lost to history, already settled on the slopes of

the massive giant. In his 1924 book about the mountain, Charles

Dundas estimated there to be close to 725 different clans nearby,

all with their own chieftains, ceremonies, beliefs, and rituals.

These people slowly united until there were only six clans, all

named for the six rivers that flow around the mountain, and

after german occupation of East Africa in the early part of the

DESTINATION

20th century, they united into one tribal culture that became

the Chagga.

The Chagga had a powerful chief and were fine warriors. They

had numerous ceremonies and traditions that have now been

mostly forgotten except in their evening tales around the fire.

Their proximity to the mountain attracted so much outside

influence that over the decades it eroded their traditional

culture, whilst they assimilated bits and pieces from those

who came to them from all over the world.

They were, and are, agriculturalists but as more and more

visitors became interested in the mountain they began to

add guiding and portage as a means to better their economic

condition. Because of their international clientele, many Chagga

speak several languages and have gained a wide knowledge of

the outside world without ever having travelled very far.

Unfortunately, until recently, the Chagga have been at the

mercy of the people hiring them for the climb regarding wages,

equipment, and food, but that is all changing.

When I went up the mountain several years ago on the Rongai

route – one of six different trails – it was a six day approach

march and I was astonished to find my porters all passing

me as though I were the tortoise and they the hares, with

25 kilograms, (50 pounds ) of gear balanced on top of their

head while wearing only flip-flops for shoes! These men,

so accustomed to a hearty lifestyle went up and down the

mountain like most people walk to work.

My guide, geoffrey, explained that there were no rules or

regulations regarding the employment of guides and porters but

he counted himself fortunate to work for the Marangu hotel in

nearby Moshi that treated its employees very well, especially

when compared to other outfitters on the mountain. At that

time geoffrey had reached the summit of the mountain 15 times

and guided hundreds of people. he was a fascinating man

and I counted myself fortunate to have had him for a guide.

Carrying only a day pack and water, I would plod steadily along

all day with geoffrey at my side, and find a perfect little camp

waiting for me with a hot cup of cocoa and a camp chair outside

my tent when I arrived.


promoted to guide or head guide, it carries great

prestige.

Climbing Kilimanjaro is serious business and several

people die on the mountain every year because they

are not physically or mentally prepared. Some think

because of its low elevation compared to other

tallest continental peaks it is an easy walk. It is

not. The knowledge and experience of the Chagga

are necessary for those who would stand at Uhuru

peak, the summit of Africa. In fact, regulations now

require anyone wishing to ascend the mountain to

have a licensed guide and set number of porters

for each member of the climbing team.

During my climb, geoffrey constantly asked

me how I was doing, checked my pulse and,

asked me questions to assure I was not

succumbing to altitude sickness. I had to agree

in advance that if at any time he felt I was not

up to it, he had the right to turn me around

and head back down with no questions asked.

he put my safety first.

In the early days guides and porters were paid

poorly, had to supply their own climbing gear, and

while their clients were being well fed, the porters

usually had one meal per day of a corn porridge

called ugali.

Today there are unions for the porters and guides,

and the Kilimanjaro Porters Association Project

is working with various travel companies and

outfitters on the mountain to assure proper working

conditions, clothing, supplies, and food for the

Chagga and have established a minimum wage for

their services, but they usually get more than that.

The Chagga are proud of their work on the

mountain and eager to show their home to those

who come to climb with them. If you do, you will

be richly rewarded with the knowledge, experience,

camaraderie, and just plain friendliness of these

mountain men of Africa. •

The knowledge of geoffrey and his team was

astounding, not only did they know every plant, tree,

bush, and animal, but they educated me about the

history of the mountain and East Africa in general. I

would sit in the cook tent before meals watching the

men work while asking countless questions, feeling I

had been given insight to a rare culture.

The first morning that I stepped outside my tent to

find myself above a solid layer of clouds that seemed

to cover all of Africa, I felt as though I was touching

the face of god and realised the entire crew were

standing there also, in awe of the place they lived

and worked, and knew then just how deep their love

of the mountain ran.

Even though we were spread out along the trail, they

sang most of the day and I tried to join in even though

I did not know the words. It was simply a pleasure to

be among these hardy mountaineers who loved their

work and life itself.

In recent years, the Chagga have greatly improved

their standard of living due to this difficult work. The

beehive huts are long gone, exchanged for nice homes

with plumbing and electricity. Within their community,

being a porter is honourable work, and when they are

DESTINATION

Air Uganda flies to

Kilimanjaro International

Airport, Tanzania

4 times a week.

Above: Climbers taking a break on the Summit ridge.


Untitled-1 1 4/18/13 11:26 AMasante_May_2013Final.indd 43 4/24/13 1:53 PM

It is probable that the first human seat was a tree branch or log. From that humble beginning every kind of wood has been used to make bigger, better and more comfortable seating, says Patricia Hughes Scott.

Furniture in East Africa

Cane, Wicker &

FEATURE


W hile we may not know who

invented the first chair, we do know

that wickerwork (bending supple

branches) to make seating is an

ancient craft. Woven rush has been found in Egyptian

tombs dating back more than 2000 years BC.

The legendary bull rush basket that sheltered baby

Moses in the biblical story was probably a prototype of

the wicker baby baskets in use today. Woven basket

chairs were popular in the Middle Ages in Europe,

and wicker work was taken to America by the pilgrims

from Europe who set sail to the new world in search

of a new life.

Stone carvings from the Sumerian and Roman

cultures show dignitaries seated on wicker chairs.

Seating made from pliable rushes, young tree shoots

and bamboo are evidenced almost continuously

throughout history. China was, and probably still is,

the leading user of bamboo - for many purposes - but

this noble, decorative and one of the most useful,

plants in nature, has spread around the world, and is

now firmly established in East Africa.

Natural materials such as wicker, cane, willow and

bamboo can be utilised to enhance any décor, not

just veranda or garden furniture. Nowadays they are

used to make strikingly attractive indoor furniture, wall

dividers and items like waste baskets or plant stands.

Bamboo is a rapidly growing trade in East Africa, with many beautiful, unique and intricate household items designed and hand-made by African craftsmen.

The use of natural materials has long been part of

African culture, and now bamboo is a rapidly growing

trade in East Africa, with many beautiful, unique and

intricate household items designed and hand-made

by African craftsmen. Bamboo’s tough outer coat

is stripped off to reveal beautifully marked slender

lengths of wood which make elegantly attractive

furniture.

People throughout the ages have utilised materials

which are found locally and wicker cane and willow,

which are very supple in the immature stage, can

be turned and twisted into almost any shape.

Wickerwork furniture is created by weaving coarse

fibres around a frame that forms the core of the

item. The word wicker actually means ‘small pliant

twig’ from two Swedish words, and is taken to mean

any slender supply tree.

Cane refers to any of various tall woody reeds

with a hollow pithy, flexible jointed stem. Raffia

is the coarse stalks of the raffia palm, native to

Madagascar. The word rattan covers hundreds of

plants which all have long, fibrous stalks covered

with tough bark. It grows like a vine, clinging to

other trees.

Reeds are cut from the pithy interior of the rattan

stalk, and rush grows wild in swamps along riverbanks

and other moist places. This is soaked in water then

woven piece by piece into a rope resembling twine

which can then be used for baskets or wound round

a stronger wooden frame to make furniture.

Seagrass is the dried stems of a kind of grass found

in seas and lakes.

Sisal is a widely cultivated plant yielding a durable

white fibre used for twine but which makes floor

mats and many other things.

Bamboo is a member of the grass family, although

it can grow to more than 30 metres it is usually

classed as a tree.

FEATURE


All these natural materials are very

strong and durable but, if exposed to

extreme weather conditions or are not

cared for, they could deteriorate. The

following rules should be observed to

lengthen the life of any item made from

these natural materials –

• Don’t leave items for long periods in

direct heat, as this dries the fibres and

makes them prone to splitting, as well

as bleaching the finish;

• Clean items regularly to avoid mould

developing in the rainy season – don’t

soak with water, use a damp cloth, and

when dry they can be wiped sparingly

with a light oil;

• Outdoor furniture should be varnished

for protection.

One big advantage of all these natural

materials is if one part breaks, it is easily

replaced.

Bamboo in East Africa

Bamboo is the fastest growing and most

versatile plant in the world. It can reach

a maximum of about 37 metres (120

feet) high and 30 centimetres (one foot)

in thickness within a period of only two

months. Reaching full maturity in one

year, bamboo has been reported to grow

more than a metre (four feet) in a single

day in some areas.

Development in bamboo production

in Africa, particularly in the regions

bordering Lake Victoria and other water

catchment areas is opening up many

business possibilities. It can be grown

in areas used for sugar cane and coffee

cultivation, thus providing an alternative

or additional cash crop.

At present, most bamboo comes from

forests managed by governmental

departments, and demand exceeds supply,

especially to create hard and soft wood,

and by large paper producing companies

who use bamboo to make paper pulp and

fuel their boilers. It has been reported that

timber firms are having to import bamboo

from the Congo, although Tanzania has a

plentiful production.

Bamboo’s uses include rural house

construction, scaffolding, ladders, fencing

and paper. Young shoots create good

windbreaks, which can be sustainably

harvested annually and some species

have thorns which create an excellent

hedge.

At the household level, bamboo is not

only an ornamental attraction in many

gardens, and providing beautiful furniture

and other items such as flooring. It is

also a valuable source of firewood and

charcoal and its rapid growth ensures a

regular supply.

Bamboo shoots are widely used in Far

East menus, and experiments are being

conducted in East Africa in growing several

edible varieties which could be included

in hotel menus, as well as available for

general consumption. Mild and crunchy,

they can be eaten raw or lightly cooked.

FEATURE


No other woody plant matches the bamboo’s

versatility in environmental conservation. It is a

viable replacement for both hardwoods and

softwoods. Its growth rate is three times that of

eucalyptus (now widely planted in East Africa) and

matures in three years; thereafter harvests are

possible every second year for up to 120 years.

Bamboo rhizomes anchor topsoil along steep slopes

and riverbanks, effectively controlling erosion. Their

thick leaves, sheaves and old culms decompose

quickly and create a thick humus layer that enriches

the soil. Research by the Kenya Forestry Research

Institute has shown that when this occurs, the forests

have excellent hydrological functions. Some bamboo

species absorb as much as 12 tonnes of atmospheric

carbon dioxide per hectare, a valuable asset in the

fight to control global warming.

It absorbs water faster than most plants and is used

in some parts of the world for cleaning sewage. Even

more importantly, it soaks up heavy metals, so is a

potential answer to polluted waters. In East Africa,

Lake Victoria’s shores are dotted with large urban

centres that discharge domestic and industrial waste

into its waters. It is understood that ICRAF (The

International Council for Research in Agroforestry) is

interested in working with municipal authorities to

introduce bamboo for waste water treatment in towns

along Lake Victoria’s shoreline. •

Some Facts about Bamboo

• Worldwide,morethan10milliontonnesofbambooareproducedannually.

• InIndiabambooaccountsforaround60%ofthecountry’smassivetimber needs, including their huge paper production.

• Ancientfolklorebelievedthatthesmoothexpansebetweennodesrepresented virtue, and the hollow interior symbolised modesty and humility.

• Over2milliontonnesofediblebambooshoots,richinvitaminsandlow in carbohydrates, fats and proteins, are consumed around the world every year.

•InThailandbambooshootsarecollectedinthenaturalforestsand widely consumed, although there is some concern about this widespread harvesting depleting the forest stocks.

• BambooshootsarethekeyfoodforChina’spandas,therarestgroup ofwhich,theGiantPandas,nownumberlessthan1,000inthewild.

• BamboopolesarewidelyusedinruralhouseconstructionintheFarEastandBangladeshusearound10milliontonesannuallyforthispurpose.

• ArundinariaalpineisaspeciesofbamboonativetoKenyabutnowwidelygrownthroughoutEastAfrica.Itcanyieldasmanyas20,000culms (poles) per hectare per year – with each culm growing to a height of12metres(40feet)andover30metres(90feet)atfullmaturity.

• TheWorldAgroforestyCentrehasdistributedseedlingsofthegiantbamboo Dendrocalamus giganteus in East Africa. This giant bamboo is nature’s fastest growing woody plant, and its culms are the strongest, lightest natural material known to man.


Story of

how fate and talent combined to transform a novice into East Africa’s finest amateur golfer, by Joseph Kabuleta.

Ugandan golfer, Willy Deus Kitata, dreams of

plying his trade on the lucrative Asian or European

professional tours before long. But before you

dismiss him as another fantasising youngster,

yet to confront the austerity of reality, spare a thought for this

young man.

No golfer from East Africa has ever played on any of those tours.

But then again, no golfer from this region has a story quite as

remarkable as this 21–year–old amateur.

Kitata is a lanky, unassuming lad who is still a little timid. When

I met him he was dressed in jeans and a short-sleeved shirt,

with a backpack hanging behind it. He looked anything but a

golfer. He was a little reticent at the start but soon opened up

and poured out a story that left me flummoxed.

Kitata swung his first club as an 18-year-old in 2010. It’s

possible he didn’t even know that there existed any such sport

as golf until then. Yet by the close of 2012 he was ranked as

the best amateur in East Africa. If you think that is incredible,

then fasten your seat belt for the rest of this ride.

He was born into a polygamous family which, of course, is

not unusual in the rural areas of Masaka, 120 kilometres

west of Kampala. But unlike all other polygamous homes

which are about a multiplicity of wives, Kitata’s mother is the

one that bore all 12 children from three different husbands.

The Amazing

Kitata

SPORTS

His dad came in the middle and fathered just him. When his

mother married again he was left with older half-brothers who

didn’t particularly like him and a step-father who detested all

but his own biological children. Kitata decided at the age of nine

that he wasn’t going to stay in that place, and his adventure

began. The first step on his nomadic journey was Masaka town

but after a short while he decided that opportunities, even for

street boys, must be better in Kampala. He hitch-hiked his way

to the city and arrived starving with nothing or no one to turn to.

“But I was unfazed, really,” he says. “Having no one to care for

me had been the story of my life, even when I was at home.”

He pitched camp at Luwum Street, right in the heart of Kampala,

and did odd jobs to get money for food. After a few days on the

street, he approached a middle-aged lady and asked her to get

him some work. She had a farm in Entebbe and took him to

feed her cows, goats and chickens.

“That’s when I started saving money to go to school at New

Life Centre in Entebbe town,” Kitata says, smiling. “When I got

to Entebbe I found a friend whom I had met on the streets of

Kampala and we shared a house down in the swamp.”

Even if their hovel was makeshift and a good distance away

from normal habitation, it was a good alternative to street

life. He continued his studies and eventually sat his Primary

Leaving Exams in 2006. He got aggregate 24. He moved on

No golfer from East africa has ever played on any of those tours.

Phot

os C

ourt

esy

of J

osep

h Ka

bule

ta

SPORTS


Incredibly, with three holes left to play on the final day of the

Open, Kitata was at the top of the leader board. It beggared

belief.

“Naturally, everyone was shocked but trouble began when I

became one of them,” he says. “How couldn’t I? There I was,

a novice who hadn’t competed until the previous year, but I

was leading at the Open. My mind wandered. I believe it’s the

thought of the prize money that left me in a spin. I was already

budgeting for the sh 4m ($1600), such a monumental figure in

my life at the time.”

The nerves crept in, and the bogeys too. Still he finished a

respectable third.

“I called Tim who was in North Carolina to tell him what I had

done but he laughed me off. It wasn’t until he read the online

newspapers that he believed me.”

Kitata was still basking in the glory of his Open performance and

getting used to his new-found fame and newspaper interviews

when he received a call from Johnson Omollo, the secretary

general of Uganda Golf Union.

“He asked me if I had a passport. I lied, and told him I did,

and he asked me to bring it to the Union offices the following

day. I didn’t have one. So I went to the passport office and

immediately applied for one and got it after 10 working days. In

that time I had to switch off my phone because Mr. Omollo was

constantly calling.”

Luckily for Kitata, he was still in time to be entered as part of

the Ugandan team to South Africa. “The speed at which things

were unfolding in my life was overwhelming.

When I sat in the aircraft I was like fish out of water. Could all

this be possible? Hadn’t these guys made a mistake? I was

caught up in my thoughts when a hostess walked in my direction.

My heart skipped. They have discovered their mistake. She is

going to order me off the aircraft.”

No golfer from this region has a story quite as remarkable asthis21-year-oldamateur.

to Entebbe Lake View secondary school where he studied up

to Senior Three.

His roommate in the shanty swamp house worked as a caddie at

the Entebbe golf club and it was he who introduced the teenage

Kitata to the sport. And so at the start of 2010, Kitata held a

golf club for the first time. It wasn’t long before he and the sport

fell in love and they were joined by fate.

“There was this Mzungu (white) man, a pilot from North Carolina

who was on holiday in Uganda. He was such a tremendous

golfer. I really wanted to caddie for him but the caddie master

wouldn’t let me. I was an upstart in the job and this guy gave big

tips so everyone wanted to hold his bag. But it wasn’t just his

bag and tips that I was interested in. I also admired his swing.”

One day the American was at the driving range, hitting one

ball after another when he noticed a young man watching him

intently, with admiration.

“Do you play golf,” he asked. “I do, but only on Monday because

that’s when caddies are permitted to play.”

“So I will set up a match with you next Monday,” the American

said. It was a conversation that changed Kitata’s life.

“It wasn’t so much a match as a training session,” Kitata says.

“He corrected my swing and many parts of my short game and

I got to know his name: Tim Stahlschimdt. It was he who gave

me my first kit, along with his contact details and asked me

to stay in touch.”

Kitata saved money from caddying and used it to pay for

membership at the Tororo golf club, which he chose because

it’s probably the cheapest in the country. And it was that

membership card that permitted him to enter the 2011 Uganda

Open.

“‘What is a caddie doing here?’ they asked me. I was timid and a

bit out of place. I didn’t look the part. Nonetheless I was allowed

to pay the UGShs120,000 ($50) and I was registered.”


In 2012, he won six different tournaments in Uganda and

finished as runner-up in the Burundi and Rwanda Open. He

went to Malawi for the Zone 6 matchplay championships and

took one and a half points off the best amateur on the continent.

But Kitata’s nerves returned to haunt him at the Muthaiga

Open in Nairobi when he was leading by 2 shots on the very

last hole. What happened is something he would rather forget.

“I could have used a 9-iron but I chose to drive instead. The

fairway is narrow and I drove out of bounds probably three

times, and chipped as many times. I eventually asked for

a 7-iron and got to the hole after 15 shots. It was a total

collapse.” Nonetheless, he finished 2012 ranked as the best

amateur in the region.

He returned to Kenya this year for the Matchplay championship

and finished second out of a field of 64 golfers.

“I have had to work hard on my mental strength and fitness to

improve my finishing,” he says. “Tim sends me magazines and

all sorts of material to help with that. But I also have to learn

to manage the course better so I can hang onto leads.”

His dreams of taking on the world’s best may be lofty, even

haughty as some would say, but Kitata’s unassuming nature

is evident even in his training routine.

On Mondays to Wednesdays he hits a minimum of 700 balls

at the practice range, perfecting his swing and fade. Thursday

is his rest day. On Friday to Sunday, he plays 36 holes a day

at the club in Entebbe. He says he has a putting carpet at

home and he sinks 500 balls every night before bed time.

That weekly programme only changes when he is playing a

tournament.

Fate and raw talent have brought him this far but a few other

things must fall in place before his dreams are actualised; chief

among them is sponsorship. He is currently backed by energy

giants Eskom, but their sponsorship is only for the region. If he

is to go to the East and try to qualify for big tournaments, he

will need an increased sponsorship package to make it happen.

But having come this far in such a short time, who’s to say that

he won’t achieve his dreams to perform on the international

golf circuits? •

“Fasten your seatbelt please.” I did so. It wasn’t until the plane

was airborne that I relaxed. I looked out of my window seat and

saw the earth disappearing out of sight, and along with it my

previous life of extreme struggle. It was a surreal moment.

“In Johannesburg we practiced for two days at the Benoni Lake

golf course before the tournament started.”

Kitata managed a 78(+6) score on the first day, followed by a

74, and another 74. On the fourth day he scored a level par 72.

He was the best among the Ugandan team of four.

“I left South Africa with my confidence sky-high. If I could score

a level par on such an imposing course then anything was

possible.”

After his South Africa adventure Kitata returned to Uganda and

started winning tournaments with consummate ease. That

same year (2011) he won the Kakira and Kinyara Opens before

being recalled to national duty for the East Africa Challenge in

Arusha. He won all his four matches and finished as the best

player at that tournament.

SPORTS


ART & CRAFT

Nirvana by Jonathan Kabuye.

The Visual Arts in Uganda

NOT YET

The Margaret Trowell School of Industrial and Fine Arts

at Uganda’s largest university, Makerere, has been in

existence since 1937, and is named after the lady

who founded it. It is the oldest and most celebrated

art school in East and Central Africa.

Tens of thousands of students have passed through its doors, so

there must be a lot of artists plying their trade in Uganda, right?

Wrong. For a city of more than two million people, Kampala has

only five art galleries, although there are several small ‘studios’

that sell art pieces.

That might seem unfortunate but it is pretty average for

most African capitals, for art in Africa is generally not much

appreciated. Even the largest city in Africa, Lagos (with a

population of over 20 million), only has 25 art galleries, which

works out at around one per million people (Nairobi, with three

million people, has seven galleries).

But things are looking up, according to local visual artist Daudi

Karungi, a painter, curator, printmaker, aspiring fashion designer,

art events organiser and businessman.

“Art in Uganda is on an upward curve,” he said. “The quality

of work has improved, and so have the galleries. And artists

have taken the initiative of promoting their work through online

blogs and journals; as a result key players on the international

art scene have taken notice.”

He cites renowned independent lecturer, art critic, novelist and

essayist Simon Njami, who has taken a keen interest in Ugandan

art, especially the Kampala Contemporary Arts Festival.

The signs are everywhere, according to Karungi: a foundry in

Kilembe in western Uganda is transforming sculpture; the LaBa!

Street Art Festival, now in its eighth year, brings everybody

involved in art together; a modern art museum is being

constructed in Jinja, and Ugandan artists are winning internal

awards and scholarships.

Then there is Ruganzu ‘Bruno’ Tusingwire, who won the first

TED Prize in 2012 for his project using recycled plastic bottles

to create an amusement park for slum dwelling children.

But being an artist in Uganda is still not an easy matter, and

there are very few who do it full time. Many have 8am to 5pm

jobs, and paint or do their thing in their spare time. The largest

buyers of art pieces are either expatriates or tourists who are

just passing through. Maybe the fact that tourism numbers are

growing every year means the future is that little bit brighter for

Ugandan artists.


ART & CRAFT

Just like their counterparts all across Africa, ordinary Ugandans

do not generally pay much attention to the visual arts. Often

artists are looked upon with curiosity, and very often amusement.

Is there any chance of this changing?

“Things can only get better,” said Karungi. “I see an increase in

public awareness through public art and performances, and more

monuments. There will be more people visiting art galleries and

museums due to an acquired sophistication brought by better

education and increased incomes.”

Karungi sees a thriving art collector culture nurtured by the

numerous auction houses that will ensure that artworks maintain

or increase their value. He sees art becoming an integral part

of the school curriculum from kindergarten to secondary, after

policy makers realising that it is not enough to emphasise science

without creativity.

“We will have bigger and better art festivals, art centres,

residences and parks,” he said. “And the Ugandan government

will be rich enough to support art programmes in order to occupy

its energetic and yet unemployed youths.

Phot

os ©

Jan

atha

n Ka

buye

A sign of the future that Karungi sees is the annual LaBa!

Street Art Festival. Every year the Mackinnon Street in upscale

Kampala is cordoned off, and it becomes the canvas on which

different artists express themselves.

It really is an open air art gallery with music, fashion designs,

sculptures, paintings, photographs, singers, dancers, and sketch

artists, to mention but a few. On that street you can mingle with

break dancers, and get paint splatters on your shirt. You can get

your face painted, get your interest piqued by a photograph or, if

you are really, really lucky, get to share someone’s dish of meat,

as food is one of humanity’s greatest arts.

Who knows, perhaps a couple of people might take up a paint

brush, a camera, a microphone or even a sewing machine once

they see how it gets done?

And when night falls, the concert begins and features various

performers and will not stop till midnight.

“LaBa! means come, see and learn,” says Dominic Muwanguzi,

an avid art critic. “It is a platform for Ugandan artists to showcase

their talent and skill, and be in touch with the local people.” •


A collection of essays that examines the lives

and experiences of both colonizers and the

colonized during colonial rule in what is today

known as Tanzania. Dr. Mbogoni examines a

range of topics hitherto unexplored by scholars

of Tanzania history, namely: excessive alcohol

consumption (the sundowners); adultery and

violence among the colonial officials; attitudes

to inter-racial sexual liaisons especially

between Europeans and Africans; game-

poaching; European settler vigilantism; radio

broadcasting; film production and the nature

of Arab slavery in Zanzibar.

Aspects of Colonial Tanzania History

by Mbogoni, Lawrence E. Y.

Index: 208pp Paperback: GBP18.95

On 9 July 2011, South Sudan became an independent state after more than half a

century of civil conflict wrought with human rights abuse. The post-colonial history

of Sudan has been characterised by two Civil Wars spanning almost two decades

each: the first from 1955-1972 and the second from 1983-2005. With questions of

national and regional identity at the heart of both conflicts, the Sudanese Civil

Wars have highlighted the key issues faced by post-colonial countries. War and

Politics in the Sudan offers, for the first time, a revisionist comparative analysis of

these Sudanese Civil Wars, disputing the popular notion that the 1972 Addis Ababa

Agreement was simply a prelude to renewed conflict in 1983 and the eventual coup

led by Omar al-Bashir and hassan al-Turabi in 1989. In addition, Justin leach posits

that Sudan’s size and diversity precludes the application of traditional theories of

conflict resolution, questioning current approaches to the conflict s legacy. In this

timely analysis of a region long beset by civil war, leach outlines challenges to

the Sudanese nationalist project, focusing on the strength of southern regional

identities as well as the aims of northern political Islamists and potential problems

for the new nation of South Sudan.

War and Politics in the Sudan

The Cultural Identities and the Challenges of the Peace Process

by Leach, Justin

Index: 272pp Hardback: GBP56.00

bookshelf

The Postcolonial State in Africa: Fifty Years of Independence, 1960-2010 by Young, Crawford

Offers an informed and authoritative comparative overview of 50 years of African

independence, drawing on his decades of research and first-hand experience on the African

continent. Young identifies three cycles of hope and disappointment common to many of

the African states (including those in North Africa) over the last half-century: initial euphoria

at independence in the 1960s followed by disillusionment with a lapse into single-party

autocracies and military rule; a period of renewed confidence, radicalization, and ambitious

state expansion in the 1970s preceding state crisis and even failure in the disastrous 1980s;

and a phase of reborn optimism during the continental wave of democratization beginning

around 1990. he explores in depth the many African civil wars, especially those since 1990

and three key tracks of identity: Africanism, territorial nationalism, and ethnicity. Only more

recently, Young argues, have the paths of the 53 African states begun to diverge more

dramatically, with some leading to liberalisation and others to political, social, and economic collapse, outcomes impossible to

predict at the outset of independence.

Index: 424pp, Paperback GBP28.99

Are you a tourist or a traveller? – asks James Michael Dorsey.

In the noisy silence of transoceanic flights I often look at those around me and wonder who the tourist is and who is the traveller, because there is a difference.

I believe tourists seek a respite from the monotony of everyday life while travellers go to experience and learn, and ultimately to open their mind and heart to let different perceptions rush in.

In the first century AD, a Christian mystic named Augustine wrote, “The world is a book and those who do not travel read but the first page.” And the great travel writer Paul Thoreaux has said, “Tourists don’t know where they have been and travellers don’t know where they are going.” Both of these statements ring true and here is why.

LEISURE



look or act in a certain way have committed a foul deed in the past, we find it easy to assume all such people commit the same acts with regularity.

It is easy to sit in front of one’s television and judge others on the opposite side of the world, based on unknown sources and presented by reporters who are encapsulating thousands of years of history and culture in a 30 second sound bite, but it is only the traveller who takes time to investigate such things for his or her self in order to dissipate ignorant impressions of others.

In a world that is becoming more and more dangerous to travel in, it is the very act of travelling that is needed to end the violence. It is travel that allows people to see that under our skin colour, native costumes, and disparate languages we all share the same core beliefs, and it is only minor cultural differences that separate us, differences that should be celebrated and not feared.

In my travels, I relish these differences, realizing that ancient ways of living are no better or worse than my own, but simply another way. The world has shown me that the majority of its inhabitants live in homes made of mud, dung, or cardboard; that most of them have never seen a television or used a telephone and never will. They have no idea what a computer or cell phone is, let alone the electricity to power them and an airplane is either a bird or a spirit, because nothing else could possibly move across the sky.

I also have yet to meet a single person from the humblest of these circumstances who would voluntarily trade places with me and my western

way of living because travel has also shown me that we all love our homes and our families for what they are and not for what they could be.

Today, modern technology, combined with the advances of the airline industry, has shrunk the world, allowing access to the most remote places, places that a mere half century ago required days or weeks of physically punishing travel but now are attainable in the course of a single day of sitting on an airliner. The more of these places we visit, the more we will understand and be able to peacefully co-exist with our fellow man.

Most wars are fought in the name of nationalism; arbitrary lines on a map dividing your space from mine. Should we ever evolve to thinking of ourselves as citizens of the world rather than nationalists, peace might just be in sight.

This is why I travel. •

Western culture creates tourists with a need to escape from the nine to five. The United States allows its workers the least amount of vacation of any industrial nation, and because of this few are willing to take the time to learn local history, customs, and nuances of where they are escaping to, let alone another language; they just want something different for a few days, and that is fine, but it is not travel. Travel is not just going some place. If that were the case then crossing the street would be travelling. No, travel is immersing oneself in the sights, sounds, smells, and imperfections of a particular locale, and it is taking the time to learn why that place is so different than the one you came from.

I have an on-going dialogue with an old friend from the Pacific northwest who wanders there extensively but refuses to leave his home turf as I do to roam the vast world. His argument to me has always been that he can see the rest of the world from his computer, television, or in books, and my reply has always been that such an experience will always be superficial. A picture of a cake does not reveal the smell, taste, or texture of the actual cake; nor does an electronic screen re-create the sights, sounds, and smells of the real world. Enticing as armchair travel is, it is merely a two dimensional facsimile of a three dimensional world, and as our growing reliance on electronic gadgets continues to make our material life easier, it is at the same time removing us from the physical world.

While my friend often waxes poetic about the romance of Venice, the grandeur of the Himalayas, or the serenity of the Serengeti Plain, he is merely quoting from second or third hand knowledge what others have experienced. He does not know the excitement of stepping into a Venetian gondola or the thrill of carnival. He has never felt awe as the first rays of a sunrise strike the flank of an 8,000 metre peak, and he has never watched a mother cheetah run down an impala to feed her hungry brood of cubs. Until we turn off the screen and step out of the door to follow our dreams we are only cheating ourselves, like window shoppers who never buy anything.

Prejudice grows out of ignorance. We are told a particular place or people are a certain way and we believe it because we see it on the evening news or in a paper.

We who dwell in cities have become somewhat complacent, tending to accept whatever the mass media feeds us as fact

with little effort on our own part to investigate the actual truth. This complacency is directly responsible for stereotyping and racial profiling. Because people who

Travel is immersing oneself

in the sights, sounds, smells,

and imperfections of a particular

locale ...

LEISURE



There is an old story told by the people of Buganda, in central Uganda,

about a man who went to visit his prospective in-laws. The man and his

entourage were served with a sumptuous meal as befitting the occasion.

But he was obviously unsettled, and kept straining his neck whenever a

new dish was served.

When it was clear that the last of the dishes had been served, he stood up in agitation

and asked loudly: “Where is the luwombo? Where is my luwombo?”

But unfortunately no luwombo had been cooked that day, and the man stormed

from his in-laws’ home in protest. It is said that the marriage never took place, and

By Jonathan Kabuye.

Love of the For the

Luwombo

no other man would marry that girl, all

because they did not cook luwombo.

The luwombo is a traditional Ganda dish,

simply described as meat steamed in

banana leaves. At one time the Baganda

steamed practically all their food, but the

luwombo was a speciality and it often

went to a person of very special status.

Only the youngest and tenderest of

banana leaves were used, and only the

choicest bits of meat or chicken were

cooked. And since traditionally the

Baganda did not rear many chickens, the

chicken luwombo was a special delicacy.

There are two main reasons for the love

of the luwombo: its particular flavour

and the fact that no oils are added to the

food. These days when more and more

Ugandans are struggling with afflictions

Phot

o ©

Jona

than

Kab

uye


that come with good living, food cooked with no oils is a healthy

alternative.

When used for cooking, the banana leaves are chosen

carefully. They have to be fresh and not torn, otherwise the

liquid will leak out. There are claims that banana trees from

different areas give distinctly different flavours; it might have

something to do with the soil in which they grow.

The banana leaves are first ‘smoked’ to give them that

tantalising flavour, but also to make them soft and supple so

that they are less likely to tear when being wrapped around

the contents. Some modern recipes have you pass the leaves

through boiling water to soften them, but that smoky taste

will be missing from the food.

It used to be that luwombo just contained meat or chicken,

with onions, tomatoes and salt added. Now all kinds of spices

are also used, although care has to be taken not to override

the banana leaves’ flavour.

It is also true that these days almost anything can be cooked as

luwombo, including groundnuts paste and beans. A particular

delicacy is groundnuts paste mixed with mushrooms.

After being put inside the banana leaves, the whole thing is

tied with a piece of banana fibre. Care must be taken not to

tear the leaves.

Then pieces from a banana stem are cut up and placed in

the bottom of the saucepan. It is said that these distribute

the heat around the luwombo properly, and stop it from being

boiled instead of steamed. But it might just have to do with

tradition.

The wrapped luwombo is placed on top of the banana stems

and water added. Cook for about an hour.

So, what is the fascination with luwombo? I asked a few

friends for their opinions.

Sentiments expressed ranged from “It’s healthy”, to “ It has

the flavour of naturally steamed food”, to the “Unmatched

banana leaf taste”. Someone referred to it as “Real organic

food”, while another said “Steamed food beats boiled food

any day”.

One friend had this to say: “The ceremony around serving it,

and the anticipation of what you’ll find – and then the steam

and aroma hit you - Pow!”

But the winner was “…Just because it tastes sooooo good”.

So we should not be surprised about the story of that man

who left a girl he was to marry because they did not cook him

luwombo? The way to a Muganda man’s heart is definitely

through that bundle of wrapped and steamed banana leaves! •

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The way to a Muganda man’s heart is definitely through that bundle of wrapped and steamed banana leaves!

FOOD


Did you know? Early Childhood Best Practices:Child and Maternal health and Nutrition• Regular pre-natal care & safe birthing• Immediate & regular breastfeeding• Full immunization & mosquito net useStrong Families• Economic & social supports for the family• Singing & talking with a child at home• Responding to a child’s questions genuinelyPositive Early learning Experiences• guiding 0-3 year olds through picture books by a sibling, parent or other caregiver• Organized, play-based group settings• Activities that involve initiative & curiousity

an ECD learning framework to regulate

training institutions and an ECD teacher

training framework to streamline

curriculum have been developed. As

a result, Uganda is moving towards

becoming a society in which all children

are active, healthy, knowledgeable and

happy.

Alongside supporting policy dialogue on

ECD, MRCU works directly with poor and

disadvantaged communities through the

Madrasa Early Childhood Programme,

which has a long history in the region.

In Uganda, preschools and nurseries

are a private sector initiative and,

until recently, provided varying levels

of care and education. The Madrasa

Resource Center Uganda (‘MRCU’) was

established by the Aga Khan Foundation

in 1993. Since then, the non-profit

body’s mission has been to increase the

availability of high quality, community-

based, culturally-relevant and pluralistic

early childhood development (ECD)

services. With the involvement of bodies

such as MRCU, a national ECD policy was

brought into force in 2007. Subsequently,

Phot

os ©

Zul

Muk

hida

By Tina Parbhakar.

Early learning Developmentin Uganda

INSPIRATION

Children of Takuba Islamic Nursery School enjoy colourful picture books.


When the Programme began in

Mombasa, in the early 1980s, research

suggested that the lives of young

children, ages 0 to 6, deserved particular

attention because events during the

early years provided the foundation for

children’s later success. Current neuro-

science confirms the importance of early

stimulation, as human babies’ brains

triple in size between birth and age 3.

Furthermore, social science research

indicates three inter-locking areas of

focus that can help any community raise

a fully developed child: (1) good maternal

and child health and nutrition, (2) strong

families and (3) regular opportunities for

positive early learning experiences.

Research also demonstrates that the

Madrasa approach, which integrates

mental, physical, social, cultural and

spiritual aspects of development, makes

a real difference in children’s cognitive

development and later success in school

and life. Pre-schools generally have one

teacher for every 15-20 children, follow

a schedule that builds awareness of time

and place, and incorporate song, dance,

art, words and numbers into each day.

Growth monitoring and a common feeding

programme are additional features that

ensure children are physically on track

and ready to learn. Classrooms are set

up with designated areas, such as a shop

area and a block area, where everything

is labelled. By naming objects, children

become familiar with common words in

their environment and learn that words

are associated with objects. Similarly,

low-cost, locally made picture books

provide attractive precursors to reading.

Research also demonstrates that the

Madrasa approach, which integrates

area and a block area, where everything

is labelled. By naming objects, children

become familiar with common words in

their environment and learn that words

are associated with objects. Similarly,

low-cost, locally made picture books

provide attractive precursors to reading.

Currently, MRCU is supporting ECD in the

West Nile Region and over 50 preschools

that have graduated from its Programme

in the Central Region. The Centre has

recently launched an Adopt-a-Preschool

programme that allows individuals,

groups and businesses to build a

relationship with a preschool and support

its sustainability, through monetary

gifts, in-kind donations, or volunteerism.

MRCU also offers training to ECD

caregivers and others seeking knowledge

on topics including child assessment,

material creation and community

mobilization.

If you want to find out more, contact the

Project Director at sekalaala.madrasa@

utlonline.co.ug, or visit the Centre on

Sir Albert Cook Road in Mengo, which

features a resource room filled with

ideas on easy to make education and

play materials and one of the best ECD

libraries in Kampala. •

Uganda is moving towards becoming a society in which all children are active,

healthy, knowledgeable and happy.

Tina Parbhakar is an International

Development Management Fellow

working with Madrasa Resource

Center Uganda and supported by

the Aga Khan Foundation Canada.

Writer’s profile

mental, physical, social, cultural and

spiritual aspects of development, makes

a real difference in children’s cognitive

development and later success in school

and life. Pre-schools generally have one

teacher for every 15-20 children, follow

a schedule that builds awareness of time

and place, and incorporate song, dance,

art, words and numbers into each day.

Growth monitoring and a common feeding

programme are additional features that

ensure children are physically on track

and ready to learn. Classrooms are set

up with designated areas, such as a shop

INSPIRATION

Child at Takuba Islamic Nursery School learns traditional drumming.

Basic Tips for the Traveller in Uganda

LandUganda is a compact country, with an area of 236,580 square kilometres – roughly the size of Great Britain.

ClimateAlthough situated on the equator, Uganda’s relatively high altitude tempers the heat, and humidity is generally low. Throughout the year sunshine averages about 6 to 10 hours a day. There are two rainy seasons: the main long rains, which start late in February and end in April, and the short rains, which start in October and run until about the middle of December. The region around Lake Victoria, however, receives rain at almost any time of the year.

TopographyIt is located on the equator, within the eastern plateau region of the African continent and between the eastern and western ridges of the Great Rift Valley. Near the borders several mountain masses stand out strikingly from the plateaux.

EconomyUganda is blessed with fertile soils that support a wide variety of food and export crops, both annual and perennial. Agriculture is the dominant sector of Uganda’s economy. The major traditional export crops are coffee, cotton, tea, horticulture, tobacco and sugar cane, while groundnuts, maize, beans, sorghum and millet have emerged in recent years as cash crops for the peasant farmers.

LanguageEnglish is the official language and is also the medium of instruction in Uganda’s education system, from primary school up to university level. Swahili is also spoken. There are some 30 indigenous languages spoken in the rural areas. The most common of these are Luganda and Luo.

Electric supplyAll installations are of British standard and appliances should be fitted with the square, three-pin plugs of British specifications. The voltage is 240 volts, 50 Hz for domestic use. The voltage fluctuates continually, however, and proper surge protectors are advisable for any expensive equipment.

TimeUganda is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Time remains constant throughout the year.

PeopleThe people are warm, friendly, and full of humour. They are anxious to make friends with visitors and are continually asking guests whether they are comfortable and enjoying themselves. A large number of people speak English.

ExcursionsUganda is beginning to develop an excellent tourist infrastructure, with first-rate roads and communication facilities. Uganda’s national game, forest and recreational parks are indeed some of the spectacular showpieces Africa has to offer. They do have regulations regarding off-the-road driving, game watching, and so on, which are clearly stated at the entrance gates of parks or on leaflets supplied by the tourist offices. Mountaineering safaris to the Ruwenzori Mountains in the western Rift Valley are now becoming a favourite Ugandan expedition. Similar safaris can also be organised to climb Mount Elgon in the east, sharing the border with Kenya.

HotelsThere are international-standard hotels in Entebbe, Kampala and Jinja, as well as in many of the smaller towns. Camping, rustic bush camps and guest houses are also available. The Kampala Sheraton, the Serena Kampala, the Grand Imperial, and the Nile Hotel, all in the national’s capital are by the best. There are many other less expensive, but quite nice hotels in the city. Outside Kampala, most towns also have a variety of moderately priced and budget hotels.

Banking hoursThere is a wide range of banks in Uganda, particularly in Kampala. Their hours are generally from 0830 to 1400 hours on weekdays, and Saturdays from 0830 to 1200 hours. Forex bureaux keep longer hours – 0900 to 1700 hours on weekdays and 0900 to 1300 hours on Saturdays. ATMs are available in the larger cities.

CommunicationsTelephone, telex, fax and airmail services connect Kampala to all parts of the world. Services are available at the General Post Office and its many branches, as well as in the main hotels. International direct dialling is available and now there are a number of Internet cafes.

Medical servicesUganda has good health services, with some good government and private hospitals and clinics in the major cities. Air rescue services are available.

CurrencyUganda Shilling (UGX). Notes are in denominations of UGX 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of UGX 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. You can change money at banks and hotels. Although the forex bureaux usually have better exchange rates.

Credit cardsInternational credit cards are accepted in major hotels and shops.

Working hoursShops and businesses are generally open from 0830 to 1730 hours on weekdays, with a lunch break between 1300 and 1400 hours. Some businesses are open on Saturday, at least until midday. Small, local shops or kiosks on the side of many roads are generally open much later, until about 2130 hours and on weekends and holidays as well; they stock basic food and household items.

Public Holidays

20131 January New Year’s Day26 January Liberation Day8 March International Women’s Day29 March Good Friday1 April Easter Monday1 May Labour Day3 June Martyrs’ Day9 June National Heroes’ Day8 August Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan)9 October Independence Day26 October Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice)25 December Christmas Day26 December Boxing Day

Note:The two Muslim holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximate.

CustomsBesides personal effects, a visitor may import duty-free spirits (including liquors) or wine up to one litre, perfume and toilet water up to half a litre and 270 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes. Other imported items, not exceeding US$100 may be brought in duty free and without an import licence, provided they are not prohibited or restricted goods, are for personal use, and are not for resale.

Note: A special permit is required to export game trophies.

Health requirementsVisitors from areas infected with yellow fever and cholera required certificates on inoculation. All visitors are advised to take an antimalarial prophylactic beginning two weeks before their arrival and continuing for six weeks after their departure. A gamma globulin injection provides some protection against possible infection by hepatitis and is well worth taking.

Visa and immigration requirementsVisa applications may be obtained at Uganda diplomatic missions. Two photographs are required for visas, which are usually issued within 24 hours. Visas are also available at the country’s entry points. Check with the Uganda diplomatic mission in your country if visa is required as some countries are exempted.

Taxi servicesTaxis are immediately available at Entebbe International Airport. They can also be found outside most hotels in Kampala and at most of the country’s major centres. All don’t have meters, so make sure the fare is negotiated in advance.

Car rentalSeveral firms operate car hire services in Kampala. Vehicles may be hired with or without driver. For trips outside the city it is possible to hire insured cars appropriate for the trip (a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a driver-translator is recommended).

Entebbe International AirportThe main point of entry is Entebbe International Airport, about a 30-minute drive south of the capital, Kampala. Although modest, the modern airport does provide automated passenger facilities, currency exchange, postal services, banking facilities, telephoned, duty-free shops, gift shops and a restaurant and bar.

SecurityThe same rules apply for Kampala as for almost any city anywhere.Be careful and take the usual precautions to safeguard yourself and your belongings. Do not leave valuables in your car. Walking at night in all major centres is reasonably safe.

1. Make sure you purchase your ticket under the exact name that appears on your passport.

2. Do your own bag checks before you leave home, to avoid getting stopped by security and losing innocent (but sharp) items you forgot were in your bag — hello, nail scissors! — Carefully check each piece of luggage at home first.

3. Smoking is not permitted on nearly all flights and many airports have restrictions, too. Be prepared to go without a smoke for the whole duration of your trip.

4. Before the flight, make sure you know your flight number (and any others if you are connecting with other flights). Write it down and keep it where you can reach it easily. You will need it to find the counter to check in, to find your gate, to board the aircraft, and to claim your luggage.

5. Certain clothing and accessories can set off an alarm on the metal detector and slow you down.

Avoid wearing clothing, jewellery or other accessories that contain metal when travelling through the security checkpoints. Pack all your coats and jackets in your baggage where possible. All unpacked coats and jackets must go through the X-ray machine for inspection.

useful travel tips

9. Because of the altitude, airplanes can be quite cold (especially the floor). Always take a jacket or sweater with you on the plane and take one of the blankets that the airline provides.

10. When booking a family holiday, try to book airline seats in advance to ensure that your whole family sits together.

11. Avoid booking flight segments close together. Major airlines consider a connection as tight as 35 minutes to be a valid connection, but this is often not enough time if there are long lines at security!

12. Have a written or typed copy of all passport numbers with issue and expiry dates, and dates of birth of

children - so that you do not need to remove your passports or other documents when going through Customs etc. You will then have the information at hand to complete the numerous forms without having to show where you keep your documents

13. When you claim your bag at the airport, check it over before you leave the bag claim area. Look for any new damage on the bag and be

sure that it was not opened and something taken. The baggage service desk for the airline is normally at the claim area; this is also true for Customs arrivals. Fill out the misplaced baggage information before leaving Customs.

6. The air in the aircraft is dry. Minimize discomfort by drinking reasonable amounts of water and juices. Limit consumption of alcohol, tea, coffee and caffeinated drinks because they cause you to lose fluids. Wear spectacles instead of contact lenses. Apply a skin moisturizer.

7. If you’ve missed a connection, don’t stand in line to rebook with a gate agent. Instead, use your cell phone to call the airline’s customer-service number (tuck it in your wallet before leaving). You may speak

to someone faster, giving you a better chance at getting a seat on the next flight.

8. If you are flying for a special occasion and plan to carry presents in your hand luggage, don’t forget to check hand luggage restrictions first. Make sure all presents are permitted in cabin

baggage and remember that the liquids in hand luggage rules apply to presents too.

Nairobi Sales Office: 10th Floor, IPS Building, Kimathi Street, Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (0) 20 313 933/4 Email: [email protected]

Mombasa Sales Office:1st Floor , TSS Towers, Nkrumah Street, Mombasa Kenya Tel: +254 (0) 412 313 626 +254 (0) 734 605 203 Email: [email protected]

Moi International Airport (MIA) Sales Office Tel: +254 735 877 289 Email: [email protected] 1 Terminal Building, Mombasa, Kenya

head Office: housing Finance Bank Building,Second Floor, lower Kololo Terrace Tel: +256 (0) 414 258 262/4 P.O. Box 36591 Kampala, Uganda Email: [email protected]

Kampala Call Centre: Jubilee Insurance Centre 1st Floor, Podium level, Parliament Avenue, Kampala Uganda Tel: +256 (0) 412 165 555 (0) 312 165 555 Email: [email protected] Entebbe International Airport (Ticketing Office): 2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal Building, Entebbe, Uganda Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 (0) 417 717 222 Email:[email protected]

PlEASE NOTE : After working hours: Weekdays (17:45 hrs - 21:00 hrs) Saturday (14:00 hrs - 21:00 hrs) and Sunday (07:30 hrs - 21:00 hrs) Please call our Entebbe ticketing office on Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 417 717 222 for assistance

AIR UgANDA CONTACTS AND OFFICES

Dar es Salaam Sales Office: harbour View Tours J-Mall, Samora Avenue, 1st Floor P.O. B0x 22636 Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Tel: +255 (0) 222 133 322 +255 (0) 783 111 983 Email: [email protected]

Juba Sales Office: hai Suk Street (Opp.the Mosque) Juba, Sudan Tel: +211 (0) 177 800 041 Mob: +211 (0) 977 153 912 Email: [email protected] or [email protected]

Kigali Sales Office: Office No.26, Union Trade Centre Building, Town Centre Tel: +250 (0) 782 229 572 Email: [email protected]

Bujumbura Sales Office:Av Du 18 Septembre, galerie la Perie Tel: +257 (0) 22 277 262 +257 (0) 76179 000 +257 (0) 76183 000Email: [email protected]

How many colours can you find in the square?

They are written up, down across, and diagonally.

Score: 12 Excellent, 10-11 Very Good, 6-9 Good

word square!

1 N K G R E YP

U

R

P

L

E

O

V O L E T E ZI

Y G B T E N D

IM

S D R O OA

L I G W W

H

E N C W E R L

O 1 K H E B L

X O R A N G E

Add vowels to the following to complete the sentence (7 words)

rgnd,thwngsfstfrc.

Air Uganda, the Wings of East Africa.Answer

The Greedy Lion

A long time ago Mr. lion, Mr. fox, Mr. wolf and Mr. hyena formed a group and agreed to share their catch.One lucky day they caught a calf and gathered together to share it. Mr. lion divided the meat into four parts.Then he took three shares and said, “The first share belongs to me because I am a member of this group, the second share also belongs to me as I am the king of the savanna and the third share belongs to me since I am the strongest of all the animals. Then he pointed at the fourth share and said, “Whoever touches this final share let him be the judge of his life” and he ate all the meat.Since then the group never hunt nor eat together.

The Proud Man

A long time ago, there was a tall, dark man who lived in a tiny village in Uganda. He was a very proud man and also a hypocrite. One bright Saturday he went to the nearby local market and boasted around as usual.

Then he saw a man selling the fattest sheep in the market. When he was told it was costing 5,000 Ugandan shillings (UGX) he said. “5,000 UGX? But I could buy a donkey with 5,000 UGX!” The merchant who was polite and patient replied wisely, “Yes sir, you can. Only you know which one tastes better.”

Black, Brown, Green, Grey, Indigo, Orange, Pink, Purple, Red, Violet, White, Yellow

aBato corner!Answers

Valid from 29 May 2013 Air Uganda Flight Schedule

ENTEBBE - NAIROBIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 202 06:00Hrs 07:10 Hrs Mon - FriU7 206 14:00Hrs 15:10Hrs Mon, FriU7 206 14:45Hrs 15:55Hrs TueU7 204 19:30 Hrs 20:40Hrs Mon - FriU7 204 17:40Hrs 18:50Hrs Sat & SunU7 202 08:00Hrs 09:10Hrs Sat & Sun

NAIROBI - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 203 07:45Hrs 08:55Hrs Mon - FriU7 207 16:00Hrs 17:10Hrs Mon, FriU7 207 16:40Hrs 17:50Hrs TueU7 205 21:10Hrs 22:20Hrs Mon - friU7 205 19:20Hrs 20:30Hrs Sat & SunU7 203 09:40Hrs 10:50Hrs Sat & Sun

ENTEBBE - JUBAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 122 07:10Hrs 08:15Hrs MonU7 122 08:00Hrs 09:05Hrs Tue- ThuU7 122 09:00Hrs 10:05Hrs Fri-SunU7 120 14:55Hrs 16:00Hrs Mon -Thu, Sat & SunU7 124 12:30Hrs 13:35Hrs FriU7 120 15:55Hrs 17:00Hrs Fri

JUBA - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 123 09:00Hrs 10:05Hrs MonU7 123 09:50Hrs 10:55Hrs Tue-ThuU7 123 10:50Hrs 11:55Hrs Fri-SunU7 125 14:15Hrs 15:20Hrs FriU7 121 16:40Hrs 17:45Hrs Mon- Thu, Sat & SunU7 121 17:45Hrs 18:50Hrs Fri

ENTEBBE - DAR ES SALAAMFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 320 09:40Hrs 11:30Hrs Mon & ThuU7 320 12:40Hrs 14:30Hrs Tue, Wed, Sat & SunU7320 17:45Hrs 19:35Hrs Fri

DAR ES SALAAM - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 321 12:15Hrs 14:05Hrs Mon & ThuU7 321 15:10Hrs 17:00Hrs Tue, Wed, Sat & SunU7 321 20:15Hrs 22:05Hrs Fri

ENTEBBE - MOMBASAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 330 09:00Hrs 10:40Hrs TueU7 330 11:00Hrs 12:40Hrs Fri

MOMBASA- ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 331 11:40Hrs 13:20Hrs WedU7 331 17:35Hrs 19:15Hrs Sun

ENTEBBE - KIGALIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 352 10:45Hrs 10:30Hrs MonU7 352 09:45Hrs 09:30Hrs Tue -WedU7 352 11:45Hrs 11:30Hrs Thu & SatU7 352 19:00Hrs 18:45hrs Sun

KIGALI - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 353 11:10Hrs 12:55Hrs MonU7 353 10:10Hrs 11:55Hrs Tue-WedU7 353 12:00Hrs 13:45Hrs Thu & SatU7 353 20:30Hrs 22:15hrs Fri

ENTEBBE - BUJUMBURAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 360 11:35Hrs 11:35Hrs Tue & ThuU7 352 18:40Hrs 18:40Hrs Fri

BUJUMBURA - ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 361 12:05Hrs 14:05Hrs Tue & ThuU7 353 20:30Hrs 22:30Hrs Sun

ENTEBBE - KILIMANJAROFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 330 08:00Hrs 09:15Hrs WedU7 330 14:00Hrs 15:15Hrs Sun

KILIMANJARO - ENTEBBE FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7 331 13:00Hrs 14:15Hrs Tue U7 331 15:00Hrs 16:15Hrs Fri

ENTEBBE - MOGADISHUFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7420 05.30Hrs 07:45hrs MonU7420 14:00Hrs 16:15Hrs WedU7420 06:30Hrs 08:45Hrs Sat

MOGADISHU - ENTEBBE FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY

U7421 08:45Hrs 11:00Hrs MonU7421 17:15Hrs 19:30Hrs WedU7421 09:45Hrs 12:00Hrs Sat

For any information contact your preferred Travel Agent or our Sales & Reservation Office on 041 2 165555 in Kampala, Uganda.


96

6816 4

24

57

9

3

3

8

4

5 361

5 8

974

5 89

4 6

9

14 15

18

16

19

13

21

17

22 23

24 25

20

27 2826 29

31 32

36

34

38

35

37

33

30

11 12

61 2 3 4 5 7

8 9 10

CROSSWORD PUZZLE & SUDOKU

Clues across3 Freshwater fish, or a stand (5)

8 Babies can suffer from this (5)

10 Assessed (5)

11 Weapon (3)

12 Currency (5)

13 He keeps balls in the air! (7)

15 Roadside (5)

18 The French plural, or man’s name (3)

19 Widespread food shortage (6)

21 Big boats dock here (7)

22 Poke or nudge (4)

23 Sparkling wine (4)

24 Release information (7)

26 One who sells fabrics (6)

29 Garden of Eden (acronym) (3)

31 ----- Boyle (singer) (5)

32 Nickname for the Channel Tunnel (7)

34 Not daytime (5)

35 Owing (3)

36 Maker of jeans (5)

37 Pacifies (5)

38 US money (5)

Clues down1 Fashion (5)

2 Mixed (with people) (7)

4 Arab leader (4)

5 Neckwear (6)

6 4 down might keep one of these! (5)

7 Rule (5)

9 Haul, or projection (3)

12 Feeling of hopelessness (7)

14 Meadow (3)

16 Cleanse with water (5)

17 Spooky (5)

19 Filled with (danger) (7)

20 Potatoes (5)

21 Settees (5)

23 Programmes for meetings (7)

24 Denies (anag) – woman’s name (6)

25 Louis or Louise – in short (3)

27 4 down is one! (5)

28 Sudden overwhelming anxiety (5)

30 Appears (5)

32 Casual talk (4)

33 --- and void (3)

Place a number from 1 to 9 in

every empty cell so that each

row, each column and each 3x3

box contains all the numbers

from 1 to 9.

No number can appear twice in

a row, column or 3x3 box.

Do not guess – you can work

it out by a process of elimination.

Crossword

Sudoku

Answers across3. Perch 8. Colic 10. Rated 11. Gun 12. Dinar 13. Juggler 15. Verge 18. Les 19. Famine 21. Seaport 22. Prod 23. Asti24. Divulge 26. Draper 29. GOE 31. Susan 32. Chunnel 34. Night 35. Due 36. Levis 37. Calms 38. Cents

Answers down1. Vogue 2. Mingled 4. Emir 5. Cravat 6. Harem 7. Reign 9. Lug 12. Despair 14. Lea 16. Rinse 17. Eerie19 Fraught 20. Spuds 21. Sofas 23. Agendas 24. Denise 25. Lou 27. Ruler 28. Panic 30. Seems 32. Chat 33. Nul


Hotel Emerald is a business-class hotel, ideally situated in the heart of Westlands, only a few steps away from the major business centers, shopping malls and entertainment areas. Our convenient location, combined with great amenities and a high level of comfort, make Hotel Emerald the perfect location for your next stay in Nairobi.

Our hotel has 14,000 sq ft of meeting and conference space, giving you ample scope to plan that important meeting, seminar or dream event. Our events team will be on-hand to ensure that everything goes as smoothly as possible. Our comfortable guest rooms all come with business-friendly features such as complimentary Wi-Fi access, a 32’’ LCD TV and a laptop-sized safe, while select rooms feature a Jacuzzi and balcony with panoramic city views.

When it comes to Comfort and Convenience

For further information & reservations contact:HOTEL EMERALD, Krishna Center 6th Floor, 12 Woodvale Grove,

Westlands, P.O. Box 13839 - 00800, Nairobi, Kenya • Tel: +254 (0)729 418 241 / +254 (0)732 515 705 • Email: [email protected]

• Perfect for conferences and corporate events, weddings, banquets and parties

• Ideal for business luncheons

• Multi-cuisine restaurant with spectacular views of Nairobi

• 24-hour business center

• Airport transfers & currency exchange

W E M E A N B U S I N E S S

Westlands, Nairobiwww.thehotelemerald.com



Mogadishu’sWarm WelcomeKitata

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The inflight magazine of Air Uganda part of the Issue 15

asante no15

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