bearing upgrade - 轍屋自転車店shopping.wadachiya.com/pdf/truvativ_gxp_by_rwc_f.pdfratchet...

BEARING UPGRADE INSTRUCTIONS FOR

TRUVATIV GXP

©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals .com All rights reserved.

RECOMMENDED TOOLS AND SUPPPLIES:

enduro fork seals .com TRUVATIV GXP PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS

Enduro Outboard Bearing Kit (chromium steel or ceramid hybrid)Enduro Outboard Bearing Puller/Press ToolEnduro Outboard Cup Removal ToolRatchet Wrench w/ 1/2” Drive8mm Allen WrenchRock ‘n’ Roll Super Web GreaseRubber-faced malletStrap Wrench or Soft-Jawed Vise


1) For the GXP system, be sure you have the latest version of the Puller/Press, which includes a special bearing shim extrac-tor/installer (pictured at right).

Remove your chain before beginning...

2) Use an 8mm Allen wrench to extract the non-drive side crank arm.



3) Use a rubber-faced mallet to start the axle moving toward the drive side.

4) Remove the right crank assembly.



5) Use the Enduro Outboard Cup Re-moval Tool to loos-en the non-drive bearing cup. This side has standard threads, so loosen by turning it coun-ter-clockwise.

The axle sleeve may or may not come out with the cup. If it does, pull it out of the cup and set the sleeve aside. Be sure and take note of any spacers, so that they can be re-installed as required.



6) Remove the OE spacer/seal from the non-drive cup.

WE WILL NOT BE RE-USING THIS SEAL.

7) Take the “cup holder” portion of the Puller/Press Tool and set it upside down (“Enduro” facing up) on a fl at sur-face.



8) Place the outboard cup on top of the “cup holder” with the bearing facing up.

9) Insert the GXP shim extrac-tor into the shim as shown.

10) Insert and hand-tighten the bolt.

11) Tighten the bolt us-ing the 8mm Allen wrench until the extractor bottoms out against the bearing. At this point, the bearing shim will have been pushed completely out of the bear-ing. Remove the bolt.



12) You will fi nd the reducing shim sit-ting on top of the “cup holder.”

SET THIS SPACER ASIDE AS YOU WILL NEED TO USE IT WITH THE NEW BEARING.

13) Push the expander into the col-let as shown.



14) Place the outboard cup into the open side of the “cup holder” with the bear-ing facing down.

15) Insert the expander and collet into the center of cup. The “fl anges of the collet with “catch” on the back of the bearing.

16) Insert the bolt through the expander and thread it into the cup holder by hand.



17) Use the 8mm Allen wrench to tighten the bolt and press the bearing out.

Note that TruVativ likes to really “glue” these bearings in. If you have trouble keeping the cup hold-er from turning in your hand, you can use a strap wrench (see step 36) or pad the jaws of a vise and apply just enough pressure to hold it in place (DO NOT DISTORT THE CUP HOLDER BY OVER-TIGHTEN-ING THE VISE).

18) Remove the bearing cup and clean out any re-sidual glue or grease.


19) Get a new bearing from your Enduro Kit.



21) Place the bearing, shim-side down, on the BACK of the Enduro cup holder.

22) Insert the shim press through the bearing and in-side of the shim, as shown.

20) Start the OE bearing reducer shim into the new Enduro bearing by hand. It won’t go in far--just get it to start evenly.

23) Place the “bearing support” on top of the shim installer, re-cess down, as shown.

©2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com All rights reserved.

24) Fully seat the shim by inserting the bolt through the “support” and “shim installer” and us-ing the 8mm Allen wrench to tighten the bolt until the shim is fully seated.

A fully seated shim will be “bottomed out” on the “fl ange side” and will ex-tend about 1mm past the inner race of the bearing on the other side.



25) Place the empty non-drive side out-board cup into the cup holder with the threads facing down.

26) Place the new bearing (now with the shim pressed into it) into the outboard cup with the “fl ange” side of the reducer facing down.



27) Place the “support” on top of the bearing as shown. When oriented correctly, the reducing shim of the bearing will fi t up into the recess of the support. This keeps the shim from getting pushed back out.

28) Insert the bolt, threading it into the “cup holder” by hand. Then, fully tighten with the 8mm Allen wrench to seat the new bearing into the outboard cup.



Note that the bearing is fully seated in the cup and the bearing shim still ex-tends about 1mm past the inner race of the bearing. It is now ready to be in-stalled into the frame.

29) Apply some grease to the cup threads and re-install the cup (and any required cup spacers) into the non-drive side of the bot-tom bracket shell. Thread clockwise to tighten.

WE WILL NOW TURN OUR ATTEN-TION TO THE DRIVE SIDE BEARING CUP.



30) Use the Enduro Out-board Cup Removal Tool to remove the drive side cup. Remember that the drive side is reverse-threaded, so turn clockwise to loos-en.

31) As you remove the cup, take note of any spacers so that they can be re-installed as required.



32) Remove the OE spacer/seal from the cup. We will not be re-using this seal.

33) Place the outboard cup into the open side of the “cup holder” with the bear-ing facing down.

34) Insert the expander and collet into the center of cup. The “fl anges of the collet with “catch” on the back of the bearing.



35) Place the bolt through the collet ex-pander and thread it into the cup holder. Use the 8mm Allen wrench to tighten the bolt and press the bearing out.

36) Because TruVativ uses a rather strong adhesive to retain the bearings, the additional leverage provided by a strap wrench or soft-jawed vise may be re-quired. You may even hear an audible “crack” when the bearing lets loose...



37) Clean the outboard cup as needed to remove residual adhesive or grease.

38) Take the other bearing out of the kit and place it on the 24mm side of the “bearing guide.”




39) Place the bearing and bearing guide into the cup holder.

40) Place the open side of the outboard cup on top of the bearing.


41) Place the “support” on top of the outboard cup with the extention side of the support in-serted into the bearing cup.

42) Insert the bolt and fully tighten with the 8mm Allen wrench.

Note that the bearing will not be fully seated into the cup at this stage.

43) Remove the outboard cup and the “bearing guide” part of the tool from the “cup hold-er.”




44) Put the outboard cup back into the “cup holder” with the threads facing down.

45) Place the “sup-port” on top of the new bearing (as pictured at right) and install the bolt by hand.

46) Tighten the bolt with the 8mm Allen wrench to fully seat the bearing.


47) Re-install the drive side outboard cup into the bottom bracket shell.

Use grease or anti-seize compound on the cup threads. If you did not install the sleeve with the non-drive side cup, remember to install it now! Also, be sure that any spacers previously used between the cup and frame are not forgotten.

48) Use the out-board cup tool to tighten the drive side outboard cup (turn counter-clockwise to tight-en).

Proper torque vaue is:

25-30 Foot Pounds =300-360 Inch Pounds=34-41 Newton-meters=346-415 Kg-force cm




49) Take the orange silicone spacer/seal from the Enduro® bearing kit.

50) Slide the seal onto the axle with the metal side of the seal facing toward the bearing.

51) Apply a generous coat of Super Web Grease® on the metal side of the seal.



52) Start the axle into the drive side cup and bearing.

53) As you push the axle in, the seal will take its place inside the cup.

54) Center the axle and push it until the splined end comes through the other side and it “bottoms out.”


By way of explanation, the axle “bottoms out” when the “step” in the axle contacts the bearing reducing shim. The cup, sleeve, and seals are omitted from the pictures below for clarity.

Axle “Step”

Axle “Step” contacting the bearing shim




55) Place the special metal shim from the Enduro® Kit over the end of the axle and up against the bear-ing.

56) Take the black spacer/seal from the Enduro® Kit and apply a coat of grease on the metal side. Slide the seal onto the axle with the black silicone side facing out.

57) Properly align the non- drive crank arm and slide it onto the splines of the axle.



58) Use the 8mm Allen wrench to tighten the non-drive crank arm. After fully tightening, give that crank arm a spin and see how smooth your crankset was meant to be!

Torque Values for the Crank Arm Bolt:

35-40 Foot Pounds=420-480 Inch Pounds=48-54 Newton-meters=484-553 Kg-force cm

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