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Party & Fun Art & Design Relax & Enjoy Love & Romance

Festivals & Events

Summer Adventure

Pubs andTerraces

Underground Scenes

Partying in Baths

Landmarks

MuseumsAnd galleries

Antiques and Shoppings

Thermal Baths

Parks and hills

Cafés, Old and New

Ideal Dating Spots

Picturesque Panoramas

Candle-Lit Dinners

Exhibitions, Music

Music and Dance

Gastro Festivals

Open-air venues

Walking and cycling

Beach and Spa

Party and funBudapest is the Hottest Non-Obvious Cool Spot in Europe these Days. It feels as a spring pushed down for too long: it radiates energy, fun and party feeling.

Ruin Pubs Partying in Baths Roof gardens

Top Tips

Gödör Klub

A park and a pop and rock music venue that was named after the „PIT”, a widely used

nickname of the big hole left behind the unfinished National Theatre construction. A crowded

and pleasant downtown gathering place for young people. (V. Erzsébet tér,

www.godorklub.hu)

Kuplung

A typical and popular ruin pub in a former garage, deep inside the block, since 2004. A DJ

operates from a desk created out of a „stretch Trabant” (Have look!) (VI. Király utca 46.,

www.kuplung.net)

A38

Top Tips

Some More Musts

Real PeopleTalk

The Secrets of Budapest

An imaginative complex of restaurant, concert hall and dance floor, the name is from the

model of the ship, an Artemovsk type stone carrier barge fro the Ukraine. This was no. 38 on

the „assembly line”. (South of the Buda end of Petőfi bridge, www.a38.hu)

Holdudvar

Then most popular youth venue in Margaret Island, near Margaret bridge. Restaurant, bar, garden,

gallery, open-air cinema. It operates in a building that was partly built in 1868/69, by a great architect

– who would hardly recognize his design… (XIII. Margitsziget, www.holdudvar.net.)

The Retro Café „Bambi”

Named after the little animal from the woods, it miraculously survived the successive

modernisation waves. It still has its neighbourhood regulars, not just hype-loving students. A

highly authentic place from 1961. (III. Frankel Leó út 2-4.)

Some More Musts

Corvin Roof A roof garden on top of a department store from 1926. (VIII. Blaha Lujza tér 1-2.,

www.corvinteto.com)

Szimpla KertA „ruin pub” in the old Jewwish quarter. (VII. Kertész 48., www.szimpla.hu)

Zöld PardonA very big garden on the Buda riverside, between two universities (XI. Goldmann

György térr, southern part, www.zp.hu)

MerlinA café and a theatre downtown, in the courtyard of City Hall. A venue for lectures and

debates (V. Gerlóczy utca 4., www.merlinszinhaz.hu)

ApacukaAteliers, galleries and a café-restaurant, in a quasi Quartier Latin atmosphere (VIII.

Horánszky utca 5., www.apacuka.com)

Szilvuplé VarietéA café-cabaret in the „Broadway of Pest” (VI. kerület, Ó utca 33., www.szilvuple.hu)

MarximA beerhall with Communist insignia – Illegal, In The Strict Sense Of The Word (II.,

Kisrókus u.23., www.marximpub.extra.hu)

Szemlőhegy Cave

You can visit 250 meters out of the 2200, with a guide, even in a whhelchair. 12 degrees Celsius at all times, dress warm. Great chrystal patterns, no crawling ont he ground. (1025 Budapest, Pusztaszeri út 35., www.szemlohegyi.atw.hu)

Szóda CaféA celebrated student café, a stone’s throw from the Grand Synagogue (VII.

Wesselényi utca 18., www.szoda.com)

Trafó Bár TangóIn the cellar of the Contemporary Arts Center, originally a transformer from 1912. (IX.

Liliom utca 41. www.trafo.hu/statics/trafo_bar_tango)

Full list

Real People Talk

CorvintetőEven to reach the roof is an adventure itself. Stars, with mystical lights, and great

music. „Convinteto, life is underground” (motto on Facebook)Emese and Ágnes Ördög

CitadellaThe former hilltop fortress from 1851 – it was never used for military purposes. A

great disco, an even grater walk down to the rown in deep sleep. The best dico with panoramaÁgnes Bartuszek

A Zikkurat, rollerralAt the National theatre there is a „zikkurat”. For my birthday my husband roller, and

we quietly rolled down. It was terrific!Batáné Magdi

Sziget Festival, approached on a shipThe greatest adventure of last summer was to aaproach the Island Festival on boat! It

was a magical night – so many foreigners!László Paszternák

Holdudvar on Margaret IslandGreat music and lots of students, of all nationalities. I was even recognized by some.

Whom I previopsly talked to at the tourist office, where I work…Ágnes

CavesOut of the cave tours I took I prefer the adventurouis kinds, ones that lasted for hours. It is not

for the faint-hearted! We had to crawl into some narrow holes – it was great fun. I never felt the danger.Judit Majoros

“There is nothing better than waking yourself up in one of Budapest’s thermal baths after a long night of partying.”

Nathalie, Serge and Julien from Canada

“This is our favourite city. We have to sit in a pavement cafe in the evening on the banks of the Danube with the lights of the palace across the river.”Ruth and Pete from UK

The Secrets of Budapest

A Small Secret of a Large Parliament Building

When it opened, all the MPs were males, and almost all of them smoked large and expensive

cigars. They spent most of their time chatting in the riverfront corridors, puffing their cigars.

It was every now and then interrupted by a bell — they had to go in, to cast their ballot…

Then they left their cigars in the cigar holder with the number of their seats. They soon re-

turned, took it up, and followed their main activity: exchanging gossip and cursing the

opposition. Needless to say, the cigar holders are left intact, after the recent ban on smoking.

The Campanile in Városmajor

The classic modernist church was completed in 1937, by Bertalan Árkay, architect. The

campanile is somewhat apart, since there is a covered little river, called “Devil’s Ditch,

„Ördögárok”, underneath. Critics loved the form and the interior of church, but it was

obviously too modern for the Catholic Church of the day. In a fiery attack it was named

“God’s Garage”. (XII. Csaba utca and Maros utca corner)

Statues in the foyer in Gresham Palace Hotel

The finely tuned cohabitation of the old and the new: that is the success recipe of New

Budapest. You can hardly witness it better than in Four Seasons Gresham Hotel, where the

designers placed some artwork by immigrant Armenian-Hungarian sculptor Mamikon

Yengibarian (b. 1963). They somehow narrow down the very large space and stop you to

think for a moment.

A Florence-style “residential tower” in Joseph Town

This improbable yellow-brick-clad tower is visible from as far away as Ferenciek tere. It is

nothing else than the water-Tower of the one-time National Theatre. The theatre (and the

tower) was completed in 1875. The theatre itself was pulled down in 1964. For many years

this tower belonged to “Central Stage Décor Ateliers” of Budapest theatres. (VIII. Csokonai

utca 3.) 

The Paul Street Boys Statue

The juvenile novel “Paul Street Boys” by Ferenc Molnár was first published in 1907, and has

been a hit with Hungarian (and at least Italian and Polish) kids ever since. During 2007 a

series of events marked the centenary, among them the unveiling of an evocative group of

statues, entitled the “Einstand” scene, by sculptor Péter Szanyi. The now obsolete German

term was cried when stronger boys threatened weaker ones, and demanded the “peaceful”

transfer of their possessions, in this case the marbles. (VIII. Práter utca 15.)

Retro Adventures in Budapest (Party and Fun)

Bambi Pastry Shop. (1961. III. Frankel Leó út 2-4..) Named after the little animal from the woods, it

miraculously survived the successive modernisation waves. It still has its regulars. A highly authentic

place.

Caroussel — Amusement Park (1908) Part of Amusement Park in City Park, meticulously restored in

1996, with private donations. Patrons — among them the then British ambassador — “adopted a

horse”. (www.vidampark.hu)

Kádár Eaterie (1960s, VII. Klauzál tér 9.) A charming, legendary neighourhood eaterie in the main

square of the former Jewish quarter. Only in lunchtime. You should share a table.

Tisza Cipő shoes (VII. Károly körút 1.) A yuppie businessman revived a 1971 totalitarian brand name

— it was noticed even by some trend-setter world magazines like Face and ID. (www.tiszacipo.com)

Kuplung Ruin Pub (VI. Király utca 46.) A trend-setter “ruin pub” since October 2004, a 600 square

meter former garage space, with an every evening DJ-programme orchetrated from a stretched Trabant

– a unique installations. (www.kuplung.net)

Adventurous Cuisine (Party and Fun)

Klassz

The name is difficult to translate: “terrific, classy, great”, more or less. Just left to the nicely

restored landmark department store this ingeniously devised cosmopolitan bistro was an

instant success. There are two secrets: dozens of wines by the glass and the “no reservation”

policy. The back of it is a wine shop, the kitchen is upstairs. Soups are a forte. (VI. Andrássy

út 41.)

Kiskakukk

A neighbourhood institution north of Margaret bridge, continuously operating since 1913.

Great and relaxed atmosphere, where nobody is in a hurry. Mainly traditional Hungarian

cuisine. When making a reservation, avoid the recent extension to the left. (XIII. Pozsonyi út

12.)

Biarritz

In the only block between Parliament itself and White House, former Communist

headquarters, a medium size and intimate place with international food and attentive service,

with a political crowd at lunch and neighbourhood clients in the evening. On the walls there

are photos of the original Biarritz from the late 30s, in the same building, but facing the

Parliament. Nothing really special, but at a reliable „good old days” niveau. (V. Kossuth

Lajos tér 18.)

Abszint

In the area called “Broadway of Pest”, a Paris style bistro with a nice gallery, ideal for smaller

formal dinners and a pleasant terrace from spring to autumn, to observe the crowd. It was the

dream of three young ladies in 2001., friends from the College of Catering. They still run the

place together, with the same gusto. In 1900 there were so many cafés in that avenue, that

when someone looked for a midwife, he was told to go “to the block where there is no

café…” (VI. Andrássy út 34.)

Art and Design

Budapest is an Over-Cultured City, with more music and musuem per capita than most countries. It offers a varied mainstream and alternative scene, a real cultural adventure.

Liszt Music Academy Lively Contemporary Arts Scene Emerging Designers’ Market

Top Tips

Liszt Music Academy

The art nouveau palace was completed in 1907 – every detail hints at music. There are two

concert halls for the wider public. One can visit the foyer, pretending to buy tickets. There

you can have a glance of the brass vacuum cleaner stubsn in some columns, a fresh invention

of the times of building. The square, which bears the name of the great composer is a café

paradise and a design Mecca. The three most interesting café interiors: Menza, Vian and

Buena Vista. (The academy: VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 8., www.lisztakademia.hu)

Ernst Museum

The first floor of a downtown art nouveau block, a great contemporary arts space, with

smaller shows. Operated by Műcsarnok (Kunsthalle) the large venue in Heroes’ Square. Lajos

Ernst was an art collector and auctoneer, who operated here between 1914 and 1937. He

was the first collector in Hungary who realized the importnace of sketches. It is situated int

Top Tips

SomeMore Musts

Real People Talk

The Secrets of Budapest

he neighbourhood called the „Broadway of Pest”. (VI. Nagymező utca 8.

www.mucsarnok.hu)

Falk Miksa utca

The Budapest “antique row” is situtaed between Parliement and Szt István körút, near the

river Danube. It is street of antique dealers and contemporary galleries. It gradually came

into being between 1994 and 2000. It has a regular late night events called Falk Art Forum,

when galleries present music, some wine and special attention even to non-affluent visitors.

The trend setting galleries: Kieselbach, Virág Judit, Pintér and Nagyházi. There is a general

shift from older art to contemporary painting.

House of Hungarian Art Nouveau: Café and Museum.

A building contractor, who had worked on the opposite bank and did a great job, was asked if

he was interested in renovating this one as well. He was, in return for the ownership of the loft

space. By 2006 the building contractor (called Tivadar Vad) bought the shop space on the

ground floor, restored the front and established a three level wonderful little museum and

café. He put his own collection there. (V. Honvéd utca 3.)

WAMP (”Sunday art market”)

It was established in 2006 with the aim to bringing designers closer to public and to creating a

common platform for unique, quality and available design objects.  The monthly WAMP

design fair has become one of the most important cultural and design forums in Budapest. In

the summer Erzsébet square (former bus station) and in winter Gödör Klub  hosts  the event.

Jewellery, graphic design, textiles, ceramics, glassware, recycled objects and everything that

is trendy and adventurous these days in Budapest.

Statue Park Museum

In the open-air museum in the outermost part of Budapest statues erected during the

communist dictatorship commemorate the fall of communism, according to the vision of

architect Ákos Eleőd). Its full meaning can be seized in a guided tour. Not all artwork is low

quality there. It can approached by charter buses departing from Deák Square, or by taxi –

abot 20 minutes. (XXII., corner of Balatoni út - Szabadkai utca, www.szoborpark.hu)

Fonó Budai Zeneház

Housed in part of an old factory, the Fonó Music House in southern Buda has been a cultural

centre for folk music, world music and jazz since 1995. There is a also a superb record shop

and a great selection of drinks in the bar. It is a little way out from the city centre, and you

may have to explain to the driver where it is. (XI. Sztregova utca 3. www.fono.hu )

Some More Musts

Landmarks

National Museum and Magnates’ Quarter

The Neoclassical museum from 1847, that hosts a great show ont he history of

Hungarians.Aristocrats built palaces around it, to spend their time during the ball seasons.

(VIII. Múzeum körút 14-16., www.mnm.hu)

Houses of ParliamentThe Gothic Revival palace on the Pest riverfront was completed in 1904. Hungary was

a much bigger country then. Now only one chamber is used – there is no Upper House. (V.

Kossuth tér 1-3., www.parlament.hu)

Millenáris Park - Csodák PalotájaAn industrial complex in central Buda, converted into a museum/performing arts

venue in 2002. Great modern garden design. (II. Kis Rókus  u. 16-20., off Moszkva tér,

www.millenaris.hu)

Museums and galleries

Museum of Etnography

The former Supreme Court building now houses this museum, noit in an exemplary

way. But the architectural detail is stunning. And the foyer is great for receptions and balls in

films and World Press photo visiting shows. (V. Kossuth Lajos tér 12, opposite Parliament,

www.neprajz.hu)

Museum of Fine Arts

A great, purpose-built nuseum building, completed in 1907, with an especially strong

Spanish and Dutch/Flemish collection. In 1957 the Hungarian paintings were transferred the

then newly established National Gallery. Every second Thursday open until 10 p.m., with

concerts and unusual offers, including a glass of great beer. (XIII. Heroes’ Square,

www.szepmuveszeti.hu)

Ludwig Museum

Somewhat far from the centre, the Museum of Contemporary Arts (founded in 1996,

by a large donation from the Aaachen-based chocolate billionaire and family) moved to its

present location in 2004. There is a great permanent collection and strong visiting shows:

installations, photography and performances. The building is part of the Palace of Arts

complex — a concert hall and a theatre, apart from the museum, the latter is closest to the

river. (IX. Komor Marcell u. 1., www.ludwigmuseum.hu)

House of Terror Museum

A unique, sarcastic and opinionated exhibition on totalitarian Hungary ina n authentic

building: the former headquarters of the Hungarian Fascist party, later of the deaded secret

police. Not really a museum, rather a site-specific show. (VI. Andrássy út 60.

www.terrorhaza.hu)

Dovin Gallery

An elegant, serious contemporary gallery, the first in its kisnd, away from the rest,

near Elsisabeth bridge, in Pest. Specialises in emerging poainters and sculptors, regularly

publishes catalogues as well. (V. Galamb utca 6., www.dovingallery.hu)

Antiques and Shoppings

Rare and Used Books in Museum körút

It is a great adventure to walk and browse along Múzeum körút, where there are well

over a dozen bookshops, spacializing in used and rare books. The latter tend to be saved for

auctions. The biggest and oldest shop is called Központi, or Central. (From Astoria to Kálvin

tér.)

Two Fleamarkets

The large fleamarket (16.500 sq. meters), is to be found along the motorway M5. It is

a real adventure to submerge int he good old days of Hungary. On Sunday there are too many

tourists. (XIX. Nagykőrösi út 156.) At the weekend one should visit the „poor people’s

fleamerket” at Petőfi Csarnok. The description hints at both the sellers and the buyers. (XIV.

Zichy Mihály út 14.. in City park)

Pintér Underground Universe

The Center of the Underground Universe at Pintér’s

The two modest windows hide an 1,800 square metre labyrinth. The variety here is

tempting for people from various walks of life – for its style, quality and state-of-repair. (V.

Falk Miksa utca 10., www.pinterantik.hu.)

Recent Architecture

Graphisoft Park

A great group of office buildings built around 2000, by the business group that’s main

product is a software of architecture. Top quality gardening art public artwork, on part of the

former Gas Factory site. (III. Záhony u. 7. www.graphisoftpark.hu)

The Budapest Flatiron Building

One of New York City’s most famous sights is the skyscraper on the corner of 23rd

Street. Imre Bálint’s witty structure is not at all high, but still it reminds one of its New York

predecessor. Since then the bank’s second – and larger – building has been completed, linked

to its predecessor by an extraordinary high-level covered walkway. (XIII. corner of Kassák

Lajos utca and Lőportár utca.)

Middle Ages Crossed with late 20th century.

After decades of excavations here in the Castle district, in 1999 a meaningful building

wasa born, a cross between old architecture and modernism, the kind that makes sence. Great

surfaces and elegant details, ones that will never be outdated. It is a high-quality time-share

apartment hose, Swiss property.)

(I. Fortuna utca 8., corner of Kard utca, designer: Reimholz Péter, architect.)

Full list

Real People TalkNight of Museums

„Every year we attend the Night of Museums, the Saturday nearest to the shortest night. I love

the eccentric progamas then, I still remember the star-gazing in Kiscell Museum and the Roman ruins

at Aquincum.”

Anna Bártfai

Andrássy út

„Maybe strictly speaking it is not a work of art, but the house at Kodály körönd,

adorned with sgraffiti decorations is my absolute favourite.”

Anett Szabó

Millenáris Park

„I love the exhibitions of thei sformer industrial complex and madern park. And ther is

the Palace of Wonders here, a sort of science park for kids and adults – it always amazas and

entertains me.”

Viola Luy

National Gallery

„I like the permanent exhibition of the National Gallery – it is a real adventure every

time. When there was the Munkácsy show, my father and I was queuing up for hours. I did not

mind a minute of fit!”

Ágnes Bartuszek

Tram No. 2

„I fancy the route of Tram No. 2 on the Pest riverfront, I am willing to take a detour

while mgoing home. The river and the panorama on Buda is never enough for me.”

Ágnes and Emese Ördög

“The architecture of Budapest is very eclectic. We love just

to walk around the streets, to get lost between the architectural styles and the minor details.

It’s a very beautiful city, and we want to come back again.”

Ina and Hugo from Denmark

“There’s nothing better than relaxing in one of the stately coffee shops

for a few hours, where the spirit of the past is still present.”

Valle from France

The Secrets of Budapest

Places to Impress Hotel Gresham Palace Four Seasons – The Café In a building named after the founder of the

London Exchange, (see his portrait on the middle of the façade, in gold), the café has a phenomenal

riverfront view. Possibly the glitziest hotel between Vienna and San Francisco. (V. Roosevelt tér 5.,

www.greshampalace.com)

The Balcony of József Pécsi Library of Photography The fanciest building of the “Broadway of

Pest” was built by a photographer in 1894. You can only see the balconies, if you pretend to be

interested in the library, on Floor III. Fantastic paintings that represent the six, fictitious Muses of

Photography. (VI. Nagymező utca 20., www.mainamo.hu)

Inner City Parish Church (12th century-1739)

Time especially strikes us, ordinary mortals here, in this “centaur church”, the front of which

is Baroque, the back is Gothic. Here, as elsewhere in Budapest, it is obvious, that fake revival

interiors are more stunning than authentic ones. Just visit Mathias Church or Vajdahunyad

Castle.

Great Synagogue (1858)

The tourist groups tend to rob you of that feeling, so try to arrive to a concert half an hour

before the given hour. Then you may be alone with the feeling and the Oriental pomp.

Great Hall of Urania Cinema (1894)

Originally a cabaret, then a hall for science lectures. The style is neo-Moorish, yes, in

Budapest. The second nicest cinema interior in Europe. (Yes, after Tuschinski, Amsterdam.)

Grand Market Hall (1895)

Five similar cathedrals of commerce were built at the same time, opened on the same day.

This is the most grandiose of all, thanks to the incredible amount of air under the roof.

Parliament: the toilets with the highest ceiling (1904)

You are not eligible as an ordinary tourist, just as a guest at an award ceremony, or at a high

profile conference. Directly opening from the space under the dome. There are two 8-meter

high cylinders that include toilets opposite each other. In the vicinity of the Holy Crown.

Renaissance Hall of the Museum of Fine Arts (1906)

In the central axis, the second space after the entrance foyer. Its not just the height, but the

permanent show of Renaissance Italian stone well rims, complete with the traces of ropes

pulled along them hundreds of times.

Statues with a Story Behind

A Column in Museum Gardens (VIII. Múzeum kert)

To the left of the National Museum, very near the building, there is a slender column, now

encircled by bushes. That was the surprising present from Italian dictator Benito Mussolini,

presented by Foreign Minister Ciano. The column is from the Forum Romanum… There were

so many there.

András Hadik (corner of I. Szentháromság utca and Úri utca)

“The most hussar of the hussars”, the favourite soldier of Empress Maria Theresa. In October

1757 with a small unit he sieged Berlin, and made it pay a ransom. He also demanded 50 pairs

of gloves for the Empress. (They were found all left-handed at closer inpection, back in

Vienna!) For decades would be engineers came here before every exam, to touch the testicles

(of the horse), from the nearby student hostel…

Raoul Wallenberg, Swedish Diplomat (II. Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor, corner of Küküllő utca.)

He saved the lives of thousands of Jews in 1944/45, then kidnapped and killed by the Soviets,

in 1948 or later. This is his second monument, the first (in Pest) was stolen by unknown

agents during the night before it was going to be unveiled, in 1947.

Social-Historical Safari for Serious Adventurers

The “Fuit” Stone

In Városliget (between Olof Palme sétány and Hermina út), this simple tomb stone has one Latin word carved into it: FUIT (“he was”). A lawyer in Pest, who wished to remain unknown, left a large amount of money to the city and asked in return to be buried here in this manner. It’s located near the Museum of Transport, in the direction of Dózsa György út. (For the ultra curious: the man was called Jakab Horváth – he died in 1806.)

The Lukács’s Garden And The Thanksgiving TabletsThere has been a spa called Lukács (St. Luke’s) on the site of this 100 year-old building since the 16th century, which is when the cured began placing tablets here to express their gratitude. The tablets are mounted on an outdoor wall and praise the spa’s medicinal powers. Its complete modernization (hated by most of the regulars) is underway. II. Frankel Leó út 25–29.

Duna Club Of The Ministry Of Interior

This place used to be one of the three “casinos” in Budapest, which were actually more like clubs in the English sense of the word. The Lipótváros Casino was built in 1895 by the Jewish upper-middle-class industrialists and financiers who were not admitted to the two more elegant clubs. The interior is somewhat over-the-top, wherever one looks. Now there is a cheap, mediocre restaurant here. At least while waiting for your food you will have time to examine the successive strata of decoration: the furniture the comrades liked in 1965, 1975 and 1985 (as well as the recent, desperate attempt at modernisation). V. Zrínyi utca 5.

Szalai Confectioner’s

Even during the time of catch-all nationalization after World War Two, some confectioners

remained in private hands. They earned legendary reputations, even though all that their

proprietors did was carry on as masters of the old-school, wholeheartedly filling pastries with

custard and churning the ice cream. The shop fittings also remained the same, and today they

look movingly obsolete in spite of efforts to modernize them. V. Balassi Bálint utca 7.

Relax and enjoyBudapest is possibly the only big city that is spa as well. Budapest is urban Pest and residential Buda, with the river Danube and its island in between. There is a great variety of mental and phisycal recreation, on foot, on bike, over- or underground. Grandiose Baths Panorama Decks Grand cafés

Top Tips

The Panorama Deck of Budapest Cathedral

Basilica, as this church is known for Budapesters, though looks much older, was

consecrated as late as in 1906. 302 stairs leasd up to the parorama deck, or a lift. (The

antrance fee is all the same, in an unfair way.) It is a view that offers a view of the urban

jungle: Budapest without the river – except for a tiny part. (V. Szent István tér.,

www.basilica.hu)

Café Centrál

This classic grand café was home to Hungarian writers and intellectuals from 1887 to

1949. Then it only reopened in 2000. It is overlooking three streets, the gallery part is great

fro parties. The largest and one of the cleanest toilets in town, coverd by limestone from the

quarry in Dachstein, in Austria. (V. Károlyi Mihály utca 9., www.centralkavehaz.hu))

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SomeMore Musts

The Secrets of Budapest

Real People Talk

Margaret Island

A sort of Budapest Central park, betweeen Margaret and Árpád bridges, a great

jogging area, with some late night student hangouts, a swimming pool and a large beach. Its

popular rekortan-covered running track is about 5 kilometers long, all around the island.

(Officially it belongs to District XIII.)

The chair-lift („Libegő”)

It is a great, exotic vehicle that rises in the the Buda hills 262 meters. It was built in 1970. It

takes 12 minutes to take the 1040 meters. As they expected, the wire ropes from Austria becme

longer 40 meters in 9 years, and it had to be shortened 4 times. It was designes 8-10 times safer then

the minimum. (XIII. Zugligeti út 97. , www.libego.hu)

Széchenyi Bath

Europe’s largest bath complex was built in two parts, 1911-13 (indoors part) and

1926-27 (outdoors extention). It has 3 outdoors and 12 indoors pool, with water of all

temparatures, from their own springs. An adventure pool was added around 2000. It is open

until 10 p.m. every day, a favourite of Budapest expat families. (XIV. Állatkerti körút

Some More Musts

Thermal Baths and Beaches

Gellért Bath

This is very fancy hotel in Buda, at Szabadság bridge, where guests can walk down to

the bath. But non-residents can also use this art nouveau institution, what is the traditional

meeting place of prettiest women and most handsome men in town. (

Rudas

This is one of the surviving Turkish baths, out of the many. This was the bath where

some feminist groups forced the direction to lift the ban on woman guests – a tradition here.

Now women have their only-women timeslots as well. And the bath was meticulously

restored, too.

Palatinus

A large open-air bath on Margaret Island, established int he 1930s. Pleasant place,

with waterslides and sports facilities, only in summer. (

Parks and hills

The Zoo

The Zoo (also a botanical gardens) originally opened as a private business in 1866. In

1907 it went bankrupt. The the City of Budapest took it over and built en antirely new zoo.

The great new buildings were all designed in art nouveau and National Romantic style. It was

re-opened in 1912. In 1949, after the Communist coup d’état a factory worker, a former

shoemaker was appointed as director. But the Zoo survived this as well. (XIV. Állatkerti krt.

6-12., www.zoobudapest.hu)

Fűvészkert

A nice botanical garden of Eötvös uUniversity, situated in District VIII, near the

Museum of Natural Sciences. It moved here in 1847. It is the premises of two famous scenes

in a novel read by all schoolkids: The boys pf Paul Street, by Ferenc Molnár, 1907. Then it

was three times as big as today. (VIII. Illés utca 25, www.fuveszkert.org)

Cafés, Old and New

New York

Café New York originally opened in 1894, an an urban legend sys that its keys were

trown in the river, so that it never close, not even for the night. Deuring the 1950s it was a

sportsware store for a time, then renamed as Café Hungária. Then int he 1980s it regained its

original name, but lost most of her clients, when the publishing houses upstairs moved out.

These days it os part of a luxury hotel: superb walls and fresoes, no life. (VII. Ersébet körút 9-

11., no website.)

Café Liberty („Szabadság”)

Though it had no real literary following around 1900, a very famous poem was written here,

for sure, by the iconoclastic womanizer-genius Endre Ady (1878-1919). So his likeness is

sitting at a small table, and there are some other delicacies in the pleasant café. On the gallery

a part of the original ceiling was restored. (V. Aulich utca 8., off Szabadság tér,

www.szabadsagkavehaz.hu)

Strudel Café

The new place of Leopold Town is an incredibly varied modern place designed by a theatre

designer, a complete blend of trendy and traditional Hungary. There is an elegant part, a café

part and a provincial peasant home style part. Apart from soups, all menu items include

strudel, sweet, sour or bitter versions. And don’t miss the toilets – a design forte in itself.

There is different design for the ladies and the gents… (V. Október 6. utca 22.,

www.reteshaz.com.)

A Drinking Pavilion, Off Széchenyi Bath

An eminent example of mixing the old and the new is the new drinking hall to the left of the

main entrance of Széchenyi Bath. (That is to say, the main entrance of the old part, facing

Vajdahunyad Castle.) Serious lovers of the city know that this is just a very welcome re-

creation of the old pavilion from 1939. … A pavilion to drink medicinal water, and to ponder

on the (positive) changes.

Full list

Real People Talk

Fireworks on 20 August from a special place

„Every year we return to the same place to watch the fireworks on 20 August. Int he Castle

District. Along the road leading up to i tat the back side, there are a dozen cliffs – it is a bit

dangerorous to reach them, but it is worh the trouble! We only need a blanket – and we have a view

equal to theose who follow it from boats.”

Judit Németh

The running track in Margaret Island

„It is so varied – the little zoo, the ruins of a cloister, a swimming pool, a water tower, a rose

garden, and above all, niiiiice guys…”

Emese and Ágnes Ördög

Aqua World

„I like living dangerously, so I and my daughters gradually visited all the waterslides of

Hungary. You can imagine hoiw thrilled I was, when the Aquaworld complex opened in December

2008 in Budapest. It is sooo cooooool! Not cheap, bit is worth it.”

András Török

Amusement Park

„Once every year I visit the park, and get on every single thing. My all-time favourite is the

old roller-coaster (entirely out of wood!), teh Enchanted Castle, end the “Barrel” at its exit.

Ágnes Bartuszek

Statue of Lions all around town

„I am not sure that others have noticed it, but in Budapest there seems to be more stone,

bronze and other lions in public spaces per capita than in any other big city. On bridges, on fountains,

elsewhere on doors, in all styles. I love hunting for them.”

Markos Péterné.

“After riding the carriage all day long in Margaret

Island, it was so nice to catch our breath at the musical fountain. This green island in the

middle of the town is unbelievable!”

Mantani family from Italy

The Secrets of Budapest

Business Café Venues

Farger

This French sounding name should not be pronounced in the French way: The first syllables

of the two owners’ names are embedded in the name. So say “Far-Ger” (faahr-gher). The

cosmopolitan place is crowded from seven in the morning. There are sandwiches, salads,

cookies, excellent coffee. And great papers, from Men’s Health to Wired. Free WiFi, needless

to say. (V. Zoltán utca 18, corner of Szabadság tér)

Gerlóczy

A cross of a Paris bistrot and a carefully developed plain Budapest eaterie. You can see people from all walks of Hungarian life. City council members, business people, diplomats, not particularly well-off academics. At noon there is a discounted business menu, at night there is harp music… oyster and crème brûlé is available round the clock. And great, attentive service. (V. Gerlóczy utca 1.)

KogArt

It used to be a legendary venue called “Young Artists’ Club”, for great exhibitions and

drinking parties. KogArt House opened in April 2004 (“Ko” and “Ga” are taken from the

founder’s , businessman Gabor Kovács’ name and “Rt” comes from the Hungarian word for

corporation). Upstairs there is a conservative private gallery. In the café there is a corner with

leather armchairs, ideal for the interview. (VI. Andrássy út 112.)

Spinoza Ház

This café and cabaret was created by the Budapest-born businesswoman and journalist, Anna Sándor. No amount of red tape, extra cost, or government disinterest could prevent her from opening it in spring 2003, in a then impossible address. It instantly became a hit on Budapest’s café map. The place serves good food and has an entertainment schedule that includes serious talk shows and lectures, Jewish cabaret, music of all kind, free Wednesday lunch-time concerts, photo exhibitions, and many more things. (VII. Dob utca 15.)

Unusual Photo Shots

From the top of Hegyalja út (Gellért Hill), toward Pest

The oversize hotels in the Pest riverbank ruined cityscape for centuries. You can “remove

them”, if you take a picture while descending from Gellért hill. Then the hotels are just the

right size, and Basilica can flaunt its majestic dome, not dwarved by its immediate

neighbourhood.

The bridges one behind the other

A favourite subject of coffee table book photographers. Possible to take a photo like that from

the panorama section of the Royal Castle, from the front of the equestrian statue, pointing to

your right: Elisabeth, Liberty and Petőfi bridges. The other option is the lesser known Árpád

Lookout Tower. Best to get there by Bus 11 and then walk up Látó hegyi út from the

terminus. Then even Chain bridge is in focus.

The “Drop” on the roof of Andrássy No. 9, from the panorama deck of Budapest

Cathedral

This lesser known lookout point is a great photo opportunity. A not obvious focus for you is a

most unusual roof structure that was added to a Neo-Renassaince building in 1993, Andrássy

út No. 9. As if the Lord let a large Drop fall from heaven, saying: “Let there be a Board

Room” — and there was a board room on the top of the building. (By Eric van Eggeraat,

Rotterdam and Budapest based architect.)

Napoleon in Hajós utca

This art nouveau block, with three façades, should really be seen from a distance, but it is

built in a very narrow street. High above, in the middle of the façade, the figure of Napoleon

looks down on the passers-by of the pedestrian street. (VI. Hajós utca 25., near the Opera.)

Love and RomanceBudapest is a grand place for a visiting couple, to get away to with a new partner or a partner-to-be. There are great places to hide and feel great and spend memorable hours – just the two of you.

Surviving small museums Boathouses in Northern Pest Riverfront walks in the evening

Top Tips

Vajdahunyad Castle

The romantic ensemble of copies of old historical buildings were originally built for the

Millennium Exhibition of 1896, out of temporary materials. It was such a success that later it wa sbuilt

out of stone, by 1907. It now houses th Museum of Agriculture. Parts of it can be rented for seddings

and receptions. (XIV. Vajdahunyadvár, www.mezogazdasagimuzeum.hu)

Top of the Tunnel

The tunnel was bult “to pull the bridge into, in case of rain”, as the contemporary joke said, in

1856. Over the Pest end there is a romantic vantage point. At the other end, overlooking Buda, there is

a café, great for first dates – or any of them. (I. Clark Ádám tér)

Riverbank Walk in Pest

The part of the Pest riverfront between Elisabeth and Chain bridges is called „Dunakorzó“

by Budapesters. Until WWII it was THE place to se and be seen, during the day, with famous gipsy

violinists competeing each other and for the attention of the public – a great part of it was not affluent

enough to sit and eat, just listened to them by walking.

Top Tips

SomeMore Musts

Real People Talk

The Secrets of Budapest

Dinner on a boat

Along the Pest riverfront there are some boat restaurants moored, great for romantic dinners.

A38 is the most original of them – an Ukranian stone carrier, converted to a concert venue, restaurant

and dance floor. The most adventurous order there: a drink at the bar, a concert, a dinner, then dancing

and kissing on the top deck.

Litea café-bookshop in the Castle

A glass pavilion in a courtyard in Buda Castle, with a tiled stove in the center. The name is

from the combination of the words „literature“ and „tea“. A great place for dates, especially with

ladies or gents who tend to arrive late. (I. Hess András tér 4., www.litea.hu)

Some More Musts

Ideal Dating SpotsPuskin cinema café

Puskin was the only Communist time cinema name that was left intact after the return

of democracy in 1990. It was converted into an art cinema muliplex. Its café is a great melting

pot and dating spot for students and cinéphile daters. (V. Kossuth Lajos utca 18., at the

Semmelweiss utca side.)

Klassz wine-bistrot

A trendy small place in Andrássy út, where you can’t reserve a table. You should just

go and sip wine until there is a vacant table. There is great selection of Hungarian wines by

the glass, and a terrace. The kitchen is upstairs, with a window. (Vi. Andrássy út 41.,

www.klassz.eu)

Westend Shopping Center, roofgarden

A very large shopping mall, completed in 2000, on formely unused railway land,

behind Western Station. Th roof garden is a green spot with benches and some public art.

Through some windows you can peep inside the hundreds of shoppers who look for

something in the shops that number more than 400. (VI. Váci út 1-3., www.westend.hu)

Picturesque PanoramasBudai Vár, Tóth Árpád sétány

Tourists only see the Pest panorama, when visiting Buda Castle. Travellers, though

walk along the back lane, named after the early 20th century poet Árpád Tóth. You can see

the Buda hills from here. A quiet part of the city. „That’s where the spirit of the city retired”,

said an architect-writer in the 1960s.

Panoráma café on the Citadel

The Citadel is a military fortification erected by the Austrian army in 1851, just after

the failed war of independence. It was a sort of Bastille for Budapesters, and in 1897 it was

officially given back to the city of Budapest. Ever since the look for a new role, a touristic

one. A little part is used these days. An adventurous plan wanted to convert it into a pblic

bath! (I. top of Gellért hill)

Danube Cruise, from Vigadó tér

There is a substantial choice of cruises, most of which leave from Vigado tér, in Pest,

between Elisabeth and Chain bridges. The best ones leave early in the vening, when you can

witness the millions of Budapest lights switched on.

Candle-Lit Dinners

Any terrace in Ráday utca

Nowadays it is called the Budapest Soho – this quiet Francis Town street is lined with

great cafés and some luxury restaurants. The very first of the cafés here in the early 90s was

Paris, Texas, named after a film by Jim Jarmush. (District IX., from Kálvin tér to Bakáts tér.)

Café Callas

This café was restored with great care – no cost was spared. Allegedly this was the

condition the celebrated British designer, David Collins asked for. Just left to the opera, with

a great terrace. (VI. Andrássy út 20., www.callascafe.hu)

Owl’s Castle restaurant, at the Zoo

Part of the Gundel complex in City Park, but significantly more affordable. The rustic

building with its timber framework reminds the visitor of the buildings in the Zoo, next door. An all-

women staffed old-fashioned builing, adjacent to the Zoo, where you can always hear the

lions’ roar. (XIV. Állatkerti körút 2., www.bagolyvar.com)

Full list

Real People Talk

The first kiss at the Zoo

“Our second date with my later wife happened int he Zoo. That’s where we kissed each other

for the first time… And we were let out of the Zoo!. )))”

József Bácsi

Skating and music at Vajdahunyad Castle

“There is nothing more romantic than skating at Vajdahunyadvár. When I was there last time,

the snow started to fall. I was clinging to two boys at thew side – partly fo my insufficient skill in

skating… ”

Lilla Mészáros

A Full Day in the Széchenyi Bath

„Last December my girlfriend and I went to celebrate my birthday at the Széchenyi Bath,

Outside there was minus 1 Centigrade, but the outdoors pool was 38. From 2 to 9 p.m. we visited all

the pools indoors, the atmosphere could be „hot” at times.”

Gábor Kluka

Buda Castle Labirynth, by Appointment

“Buda Castle Labirynth has two special appointment tours: the Labirynth of Love and the

Personal Labirynth. It is an experience for life, especially for the timid!”

Viola Luy

Fishermen’s Bastion

„It is so funny that teenagers still go for the first kiss here, as I did, almost forty years ago. By

11 most of the tourists leave. You can still hear the buzz of the metropolis… And the amazing lights of

Pest – nobody seems to want to go asleep.”

Olivia Peresztegi

“It’s unbelievable how many special adventures this

town offers: the caves, the ruin pubs, the spas. Never seen such elsewhere!”

Maria, Milena, Christian, Murat from Turkey, Brazil, Bulgaria, Germany

The Secrets of Budapest

A Grand Café in Pestszentlőrinc

Café Zila used to be a shooting range completed in 1903, by a trigger-happy and race-horse

lover aristocrat, Miklós Szemere. In 1949 it was incorporated into the then new

neighbourhood bath, as its changing room, and was left to decay. Then in 1984 permission

was given to Mr. László Zila, a confectioner, to start a tiny pastry shop at the corner. In 1998

his old dream could come true: he bought the adjacent building, and started the meticulous,

award winning renovation. It opened in 2002. The Latin saying over the main entrance is,

means “highest glory equals virtue”: Caput Gloriae Virtus. (XVIII. Üllői út 452.

www.zilakavehaz.hu)

Best hidden date spots

Ráth György Museum (VI. Városligeti fasor 12.)

One of the nicest and least attended small museums in the rich supply of the Budapest scene. The

name refers to the original owner of the villa (1828-1905), the one-time director of the Museum of

Applied Arts, who left this villa and his Oriental collection to the public in his will. (Not on Monday.)

Burger King, Octogon, second floor (Octogon tér 3.)

A busy place, but mainly in the ground floor. Few visitors go to the second floor, unless with a reason.

Apart from meeting someone you can also enjoy the view on Grand Boulevard. If you sit to the right

table, you can spot a familiar building — you are right, it is the exact copy of Palazzo Strozzi, in

Firenze.

Budapest Public Library, at the model of the building (VIII. Szabó Ervin tér 1.)

In a deserted corner of the ground floor part of the newly built spiral staircase, there is a model of the

new complex, out of white plaster, under glass. Yes, it consists of three parts: the original new-

Baroque palace, the former residential block, recently added, and the brand-new wing. Near the lift.

Cafés That Opened since 2000 (Love and Romance)

Café Farger

opened in 2004 and was immensely popular less than half a year later. One owner is named

Edit Farsang. Her husband, born in Vancouver and raised in Virginia, is John Gerencsér. The

first syllable of each of the owners names is embedded in the name. Far-Ger (faahr-gher).

There are sandwiches, salads, cookies, excellent coffee, and fresh cookies. And a great

selection of Hungarian and foreign weeklies and monthlies. And on weekdays it opens at 7

a.m.: a real breakfast place… (V. Zoltán utca 18., www.farger.hu)

Spinoza House

is a café, restaurant plus a small cabaret space, owned and operated by a Hungarian lady who

spent decades in Holland, and it was her dream to have a space like that. It was launched as a

café with programmes focusing on small-scale events of Dutch, Hungarian and Jewish

interest – the first was gradually omitted. This is where the monthly “Budapest” is edited, you

can meet the bohemian editors in person on the first Tuesday afternoons of every month.

Uptstairs there are some cozy room s to let. (VII. Dob utca 15, www.spinoza .hu)

Transit Art Café

This former long-distance bus station built in 1964 was closed in the early 1990s and was then

nicely restored in 2004 and transformed into this café and cultural centre. The evocative

mosaic related to horses and transport and even the original “cashier” and “office” signs were

kept. Businesswoman and reservation crusader Orolya Egri has probably lost lots of money

trying to realise her dream of combining reasonable prices and high-profile cultural

programmes with a café with a comfortable atmosphere. (XI. Bukarest utca corner at

Kosztolányi tér, www.tranzitcafe.hu, open daily 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.)

New York

Originally opened in 1894, soon became the classic literary café, blossomed under changing

proprietors until 1949, then it was closed, reopened in 1954 under a different name, then

renamed as New York again during the 80s, then closed in the late 1990s. Re-opened in 2006

after many years of renovation, but it is now part of a luxury Italian hotel, not part of

Budapest. Enough to through a glance at it from the street. It is glitzy, unique and touristy.

(VII. Erzsébet tér 9-11.)

Callas

The opening of this large and super-elegant café in 2006 heralded a new era again for

Budapest. Contrary to what many believed, it showed that wounds in the city’s fabric could

actually be healed. In the space of the neglected membership renewal office of the Opera

House David Collins, telling him that he wanted the place to be both traditional and trendy.

Collins, a London designer created a fabulous old-new café, out of the remnants of the size of

2 square meters. He insisted on certain expensive materials: Edelman leather, pieces of

Turkish marble for the floor (which don’t look like marble at all), coconut-wood for the

service counter at the bar, and the like… It will take years until the service is as memorable

as the space. (VI. Andrássy út 20., www.callascafe.hu.)

Gerlóczy

It is a cross between a Parisian bistro and a carefully-developed, but regular, Budapest eatery

which attracts not particularly well-off academics and lower-middle-class neighbourhood

locals. It is not only for tourists, that’s for sure. You can see people from all walks of

Hungarian life at this café: city council members, business people, diplomats, elderly people

celebrating their silver anniversary. At noon there is a discounted lunch menu, at night there is

harp music, there are oysters and there is crème brûlée. Service is attentive and nothing is

naff, except for maybe the chandeliers, which are easy to change. (V. Gerlóczy utca 1.,

www.gerloczy.hu.)

Első Magyar Rétesház

We reported its arrival a little over a year ago. The place in Leopold Town is still

unbelievable, a never boring blend of trendy and traditional Hungary. There is an elegant part,

a café part and a provincial peasant home style part. Apart from soups, all menu items include

strudel, sweet, sour or bitter versions. There are more and more traditional (non strudel-

related) items on the menu, but it often seems to be deserted. Let’s keep fingers crossed…

Budapest needs that great, original place. (V. Október 6. utca 22., www.reteshaz.com.)

Festivals and events

Budapest has beeen an over-cultured city for a long time, and the return of free business boosted the restaurant and café scene to match it. Traditional values crossed with all the sophistication of a modern metropolis.

Sziget Festival Wine Festival Formula One

Top Tips

Sziget Festival in August

The Sziget (Island) Festival is probably the best thing only Budapest can offer. Launched in

the early 1990s, as a seemingly hopeless alterntive rock festival with deficit, it gradually evolved into

an every year Woodstock, with added value from opera, through literature, to civil rights and green

education. Part of the success is due to the venue. There is water all around, you have to enter through

a bridge. Real fans spend the nights in tents on the island, the rest visits it in the evening, and stay

teher at least until 2 a.m., and arrive and leave by boat. (III. Hajógyári sziget, www.sziget.hu)

Trafó – a continuous festival

Trafó is the contemporary arts center that came into being in 1998 – in a former transformer

station built in 1912. It is a great importer pf contemporary dance, theatre snd circus events. It hosts a

three-season festival. It also has a great gallery and a nice bar in the cellar. (IX. Liliom utca 41.,

www.trafo.hu)

Cinetrip Sparty – Rudas fürdő

Top Tips

SomeMore Musts

Real People Talk

The Secrets of Budapest

Cinetrip is a Budapest-based adventure, since 1998. It combines msuic, water and

light, in some Budapest baths. An unusual, uplifting and thrilling adventure. “Water- and

space-related parties”, as the definition goes. From autum to late spring indoors, then

outdoors. Watch out for innovations all the time. Swimsuit or summer dress recommended,

flip-flops/slippers a must and don’t forget your towel! Budapest, by the way is probably the

only big city in the world that is a spa city as well. (www.cinetrip.hu)

Budapest Jazz Klub

A small palazzo from 1912, overlooking the right side of the National Museum, just

the right size for a jazz klub plus jazz café. There is a program every night, Hungarian and

foreign stars, emerging talent. Watch out for the after After 11 p.m. jam sessions, free of

charge. On Sunday there are classical music concerts, on most Wednesdays, folk music. Great

pianos, (two of them, a Steinway and a Blüthner), even greater personalities. (1084 Budapest,

VIII. kerület, Múzeum utca 7., www.bjc.hu)

Red Bull Air Race

This race was conceived to develop a brand new aviation race that would challenge the ability

of the world’s best pilots, creating a race in the sky that was not simply about speed, but also

precision and skill. The answer was to build a specially designed obstacle course which the

pilots would navigate at high speeds. Two years were spent in planning and development with

Hungarian pilot Peter Besenyei. There are only six rounds, the Hungarian one is traditionally

on 19-20 August, over the Danube, to add to the festivities of Constitution Day.

(www.redbullairrace.com)

House of Traditions, Dance House teaching

Buda has no theatres, except for this former ballroom, now a public institution, called House

of Traditions, what hosts the National Folk Ensemble, does recordings, and some research. They also

assist the dance house movement, originally imported from Transylvania, and has been a continuous

movement ver since. (I. Corvin tér 8., www.hagyomanyokhaza.hu)

Some More Musts

Exhibitions

Kunsthalle

Looks like a museum in Heroes‘ Square, to your right – but it has no collection, only

changing exhibitions, mostly borowed from abroad. It is super, ultra large Beaux Arts style

building, like a Roman temple. A great contradiction to the modern paintings and installations

presented here. Mostly unexpected, difficult work that forces visitors think and reflect. If you

wear glasses for reading, never leave it in the cloakroom. You need the explanations, usually

in small print. (XIV. Hősök tere, mucsarnok.hu)

Two giants on the gallery scene

Judit Virág and Tamás Kieselbach are the two larger than life Budapest gallerists and

auctioneers who cretaed their empires out of nothing, in about a decade – when museums

were too poor to set trends. (They still are.) They work about 100 meters from each other.

Their success hinged on early 20th century paintings. Since then Judit Virág partly moved

towards contemporary painting, while Mr. Kieselbach is now partly intrested in photography.

(V. Falk Miksa utca 30., www.viragjuditgaleria.hu, V. Szent Isván körút 5.,

www.kieselbach.hu)

Budapest Art Fair

Organised in late November, in Kunsthalle (old art), and in a super size tent alongside

(contemporary art) it is a lively and crowded social, business event. Gelleries don’t sell much

here, but they turn up year after year: because of their prestige. (In Kunsthalle, XIV. Hősök

tere., www.budapestartfair.hu)

Music

Perpetual festival in MűPa

The music venue Bartók Hall inside the controversial Palace of Arts complex can seat

1800 people, and the acoustics is so good, that – in the words of Zoltán Kocsis, music director

of the resident National Philharmonics – „if a fly farts on stage, you can clearly hear it in the

last row – bad news for bad orchestras“ It has great programs, partly due to the fact that its

budget doe not come from that of Ministry of Culture but from the Prime Ministre’s office.

(IX. Komor Marcell tér 1., www.mupa.hu)

Gödör Klub

Gödör in Hungarian means „pit“ – it was the univesally used nickname used for the

unfinished new National Thetre, (1997-98). By 2002 a nice park, and an unfinished

underground garage/theatre/café complex was created here. From spring to autumn there is

large concentration of young people here, few of whom can enter the concerts. The café is

situated on a 20-meter wide ramp combined with a staircase. That is the successful part of the

complex. The part towards thr river is less so – the designers’s lack of care turned it into it an

unintended and unwelcome rollerboard parardise. (V. Erzsébet tér, www.godorklub.hu)

Concerts in the Opera House

The oldest symphony ochestra in Hungary was established in 1853, it is called the

Budapest Philharmonc Society. They elect their new members, out of the orchestra of the

Opera (who are three times as many.), their conductor. They traditionally hold their concerts

on Mondys and Tuesdays. A magic experience to follow any of them from a box. The

program is rarely adventurous. (VI. Andrássy út 22., www.bpo.hu)

Dance

National Dance Thatre

The late 18th century theatre (where Beethoven himself gave a concrt in 1800.) in the

Royal Castle is authentic from the outside, somewhat outdated modern from the late 1970s

from the inside. They have no company, but invite productions and young people: their main

ambition is to find a new audience for modern dance. (I. Színház utca 1-3.,

www.nemzetitancszinhaz.hu)

Ballet in the Opera

The Opera is also home of classic ballet, from traditional Swan Lake type

performances to recent choreographies. The oldest production is Delibe’s Coppelia,

continuously played since 1951. Classic ballet has had a strong Russian influence in the last

decades. This includes dancers as well: these days the most leved soloist of the National

Ballet is called Alesya Popova. (VI. Andrássy út 22., www.opera.hu)

National Dance House Meeting and Fair

Traditionally organized at the last weekend of the Spring Festival, it is a lively and

colourful two-day event in a large sports hall. Bands, singers, costume shops record

companies meet and give a sample of whatr they do all year around. Dance house is more

than just music and dance. It is community spirit, teaching, caring for Hungarins over the

border, visiting bands from Slovakai, the Ukraine, Trasylvania, Serbia and Croatia. It is also

treadition and innovation. (Lat weekend of March, Budapest Sports Arena, www.

tanchaztalalkozo.hu)

Gastro FestivalsWine Festival in the Castle

Hungarian wine was reborn after 1990, when private ownership could return to the

god soil and the existing traditions. There are 22 wine regions now – they are all presented for

the public at the main wine festivals in Budapest. One of the most important one is the mid-

September festival in the Royal Castle. The next best thing to visiting the actual regions.

(www.aborfesztival.hu)

Pálinka fesztivál

Pálinka is a kind of ultra-strong cult brandy – can be made of every kind of fruit. The

most popular kinds are made of plum, pear and apricot, respectively. After years of fights the

European Union agreed to add the word „palinka“ to the list of protected brands. Now,

hopefully come the many millions of euros what is surely needed to make this drink

remembered… The Festival is a great event that teaches the public about the kinds of

pálinkas, their history –and also responsible drinking. (www.budapestzipalinkafesztival.hu )

Budafok Wine and “Champage” Festival

Budafok is a suburb in Southern Buda, the heaquarters of mdium and large distilleries

of wine and champagne-type Hungarian clones, and recently some smaller cellars were

rivived. Earlyx September they have their own festival, a great event. To attend that is a

somewhat intimate adventure, if you don’t swallow all drinks – never mind how good they

taste. Rather, buy some bottles. (www.budafokiborfesztival.hu)

Full list

Real People Talk

Rudas Bath

“Luckily there are more and more Cinetrip Sparties in Rudas Bath – so that we don’t have to

dspense with swimsuit parties in the autumn. We can choose among four music venues. There are also

laser shows, “light rain” and sychronised swimmers. Great atmposhere there.”

Gabriella Nagy

Saying Farewell to the Summer

“I love the hype around “End of Summer Nighttime Run and Musical Carnival”,

usually at the second weekend of September. It leaves at 9 p.m. from the Academy of Sciences.

I don’t run, no! But apprecuate the others sweating, I like applauding them, and

Enjoy the music. It is great fun!”

Judith Németh

Running after the last Tram No. 6.

„My favourite Budapest event is this alternative running adventure, every second Friday of

the month. Participants meet at midnight at the Móricz Zsigmond square terminus. The follow the

tram. When it stops, they stop. There is a light version, until Deák tér, for seniors like myself.”

Péter Inkei

“The Hungarian young people are a scream. We had great

conversations and they showed us the best places in town.”

Cate Gula from USA

The Secrets of Budapest

The Story of Búcsú Festival

Few foreigners know, that „Búcsú” means two different things in Hungarian. a.) „farewell”.

b.) Catholic feast related to particular saints, cf. Day of St. John. This festival was first held at

the weekend after the Soviet Army left in June 1991.

A Pleasant Night Out

KogArt House exhibitions

A fine, imposing arts exhibition centre opened in 2004. The centre’s highly polished presentations are

geared for those in the business elite who tastes are on the conservative side. Exclusive restaurant with

old pictures on the walls on the ground floor. Added value: you can demonstrate that you are both

knowledgeable in the art and the wine world… (VI. Andrássy út 112. www.kogart.hu )

Concert at the Music Academy

One of Europe’s most attractive concert halls built in art nouveau style, with excellent acoustics. The

experience is to be gained from simply going there to see and hear a concert – it is of secondary

importance who is playing and what is on the programme. Though visitors know it primarily for its

concerts, its main function is actually as a music conservatoire, founded in the nineteenth century by

the Hungarian composer Franz Liszt. Added value: you can quip: “What really fires me up is music

written before 1800.” (VI. Liszt Ferenc tér 2. www.lfze.hu )

Dinner at Fészek Club

The Fészek Club is just three minutes’ walk from the concert hall. The building dates from 1903 but

its garden reminds one of the inner courtyard of a Renaissance private mansion house. It is a special

feature in the cultural life of Budapest, frequented by many an older artist and upstanding member of

the community who likes to move in those circles. Added value: one can flaunt familiarity with some

octogenarian painters and actors, can even call by first name some of them… (VII. Kertész utca 36.,

no website)

Budapest Operetta Theatre

Budapest was once regarded as third in importance, after Paris and Vienna, in the world of operetta.

Nowadays there are confident signs of a resurgence as operetta – and musicals – are once again

enjoying huge popularity in the part of the city which is sometimes dubbed “Budapest Broadway.”

Added value: not much, apart from an evening with reliable quality entertainment. (VI. Nagymező

utca 17. www.operettszinhaz.hu )

Movie and walk at WestEnd City Centre

The WestEnd City Centre, designed by one of Hungary’s leading architects, József Finta, and

opened in 2000, is one of modern Budapest’s most renowned buildings – a colossus

containing shops, offices, a hotel – as well as a multi-screen cinema. Here the last showing of

the day’s films starts later than in other cinemas, well after dinner in fact. Afterwards, have a

walk in the roof garden and take in the view towards the slumbering city centre. The first

building you will see is the imposing Western Railway Station, designed by the office

responsible for the Eiffel Tower. Added value: feeling like Gulliver as a giant, when peeping

downwards, to the world of tiny shoppers… (Sixth and Thirteenth Districts, between Nyugati

Square and Lehel Square, numerous entrances.)

Classical Music Venues

Old Music Academy

The first purpose-built home of higher music education was completed in 1879. Founder

Franz Liszt also had his home there, now a lovely museum. A venue for free Saturday

morning concerts at 11. a.m., it is now part of the Liszt University of Music. (VI. Vörösmarty

utca 35.)

Academy of Sciences and Letters, Great Hall

Built for speeches in the pre-amplifier times, that beautiful hall of great acoustics is an

indispensable venue for piano and chamber music concerts of the Budapest Spring Festival.

(V. Roosevelt tér, at Chain Bridge)

Bartók Memorial House

The lovely villa in the Buda hills was converted to a museum and intimate concert hall in

1981, ont he occasion of the the centenary if the composer’s birth. Bartók lived and worked in

this building between 1932 and 1940, then he emigrated to the USA. (II. Csalán utca 29.)

Rehearsal Hall, Budapest Festival Orchestra

BFO is a world class orchestra created by conductor Iván Fischer, whose concept stresses that

a good orchestra is made up of individuals, who improve their skills in solo and chamber

concerts. That tends to happen in his venue, a former cinema. Also the scene of the celebrated

“Cocoa Concerts” for kids, on Sundays at 14.30 and 16.30., and of the Sunday afternoon

chamber music concerts at 5 p.m. (III., Selmeczi u. 14-16.)

Summer adventure

The Summer in Budapest can be hot… so it tends to be related to water. Budapest is a city of the right size… You can easily walk to venues or can use public transport. Sitting and chatting in gardens and terraces lends visitors a quasi-Mediterranean feeling. Turkish baths and modern luxury Caves open for the public Terraces everywhere

Top Tips

Liszt Ferenc tér

For decades Liszt Square was known for car spare part shops. By 2000 it became the

quintessential café area. Terraces filled the square so much that the local government had to

build new pathways in the middle, garden area. The most orignal cafés are called Menza í8sa

retro café in the style of 1970s, Vian (named after the French intellectual writer) and Karma,

an Indian style café. (VI.., between Andrássy and Király utca)

Fecske terasz

A popular roof terrace on the top of Komjádi Béla swimming pool, situated in Inner

Buda. Fecske means two things in Hungarian: a.) swallow – they fly over the place. b.) a once

popular bathing suite design, from the Spartan 1950s. A nice view on Margaret Island,

Top Tips

SomeMore Musts

Real People Talk

The Secrets of Budapest

patronized by students and wannabee champions of all kinds of sports. (II. Árpád fejedelem

útja 8., www.fecsketerasz.hu)

Cogwheel Railway

A nice summer adventure to dicover the Buda hills travelling along a special train. It

was launched in 1874, totally modernized in 1973. To ascend the steep tracks, it needs a third,

„middle” wheel, a cogwheel. You can get on it near Moszkva tér junction. It takes you in 15

minutes to Széchenyi hill, the other terminus, 325 meters higher. (The terminus: II. Szilágyi

Erzsébet fasor)

Apacuka Étterem kertje (Horánszky utca)

A lesser known suumer student hangout is called Apacuka, the name is from a nursery rhyme.

It is very nars some university student hostels, in the couryard of a former factory, with a

large chimney. There is a gallery and some ateliers inside the bulding: a nice mix. (VIII.

Horánszky utca 5 www.apacuka.com)

Boating on the river

The long section of Nothern Buda “Római part” or Roman Bank is about 10 kilometer

long, from the Ujpest Railway bridge to Pünkösdfürdő ship stop. In the 1930s about two

dozen boat houses were built, and became a cult activity to rent keelboats and spend a

weekend there. This fashion faded away int he 1980s. It is on the rise again. Less than ten

traditional boathoses survived. But they are very nice!

Some More Musts

Open-air venues

Szent István park and Café Dunapark

Just north of Margaret bridge there is a trendy neighbourhood, built in the late 1930s,

called Újlipótváros (New Leopold Town.) Many little shops, among them half a dozen

independent bookshops. Restaurants from the cheap to the luxurious. Szent István park is a

large and well kept green area, ideal for reading and observing local people. If hungry, you

should move to the split level grand café called Dunapark. You can even join a card game

party, upstairs. (XIII. Pozsonyi út 38. www.danapark-kavehaz.hu)

Sas hegy

Sas hegy or Eagle Hill is a 266 meter high partly closed natural reserve in inner Buda.

There are a dozen rare and protected flowers that only live here, the often mentioned Pannon

Lizard as one of them. If you want to visit the closed part, call the following number: +36 30

408 4370. (Partly District XI, partly XII, along Hegyalja út.)

Kopaszi dike

Kopaszi gát is a 15 hectare bay area in Buda, south of Lágymányosi bridge, formerly

encircled by long deserted factory buildings, a typical „Rust Belt” area. Recently a Hungarian

developer cleared it and gentrified it beyond recognition. A pleasant modern park came into

being, vaguely reminescent of parc de la Vilette of Paris. Thousands enjoy it at weekends:

bikers, rolerskaters, model boat lovers and ordinary people. And it is not entirely ready… (XI.

Kopaszi gát 5. www.obol.hu)

Beach and Spa

Római fürdő

Rómaifürdő (Roman Bath) is on the territory of the former Roman garrison called

Aquincum, not far from the museum and two two amphiteatrums. Most probaly, there was an

open air bath here in the Roman times. It is very near the Danube riverfront, but not on the

river. In 2000 it was turned into an adventure bath, with modern equipment. (III. Rozgonyi

Piroska utca 2.)

Csillaghegy

The open-air bath is built into the hillside - the swimming and beach pools can be

found on the first level, while the children's pool and the sun-bathing area are located uphill.

Open all year round. Patrons love its chilly water and the topless part that has been there since

the late Communist times. (III. Pusztakúti út 3., www.spasbudapest.com)

Aqua World, Aquarena

Aqua World

A huge hotel and indoors beach complex, certainly the biggest one in Hungary and the

region. Under a vast plastic dome there are pools, steam baths and water slides. There is even

a windsurf traing pool! The middle part is vaguely reminescent of Angkor Vat and is said to

built to cover the technology. It is all connected to a large open air part just opened for the

first time in May 2009. (Ramada Resort – Aquaworld Budapest, IV. Íves út 16., www.aqua-

world.hu)

Full list

Real People Talk

Being spat by a Camel

„Each and every summer I visit both the Zoo and the Amusement Park. And I take a

towel with me. We cannot foresee when we are going to be spat by a camel, or when our boat

splashes into a little pond – just for fun.”

Krisztina Pőcz

Palatinus Beach

„This beach („strand” as we say in Hungarian, pronounced „shtrahnd”) in Margaret

Island has become more and more agreeable. The trees have grown, and generally, t5here is

more nature within the fences than before. But there are also ping-pong tables, a body

building tend, football and slides. Noisy and full of life in one corner, quiet in another.”

Ádám Medgyesi

Sitting on the lawn in downtown Pest, late

„It is more and more common that I meet my friend in a summer evening, an we sit ont

he lawn, near a café. Our favourites are Szabadság tér, Deák tér. It’s great to have a chat

with friends in the evening Budapest, outdoors.”

Gabriella Nagy

Biking at Bem Rakpart

„I love taking bike tours in the evening. My favourite section is Bem rakpart in Buda,

(the embankment between Chain bridge and Margaret bridge), a sort of Budapest version of

Paris Left Bank for me. I tend to end these bike tours with a spritzer in Margaret Island.”

Ágnes Hanyecz

Market Cruising on Lehel

„Lehel Market is the only market tarditionally open on Sundays. I always take my

foreign friends to see a touris-free market, give them fresh pogácsa and chicken breadcrums

on the spot. And I explain the buiding a little after 2000: the architect called it „radical

eclecticism” – all kinds of elements and styles mixed. I know that it is a love and hate affair…

I personally like it.”

Stella Kovács

“The best solution on a hot summer day is to head to

the pools of Margaret Island. And if you are there, drink a wine and soda mix (fröccs) in one

of the outdoor bars.”

Andrea and Mila from Slovakia

“The cave systems lying under the hills of Buda are unbelievable.

Next time we will take a tour around them, that’s for sure.”

Angelika and Johann from Germany

The Secrets of Budapest

A painting in Gerbeaud

Gerbeaud has been in operation since 1858, and has several rooms, all with different shape

and decoration. No wonder, the rooms used to belong to different blocks, they were gradually

stitched together behind a unified façade. The finest artwork in the space, no doubt, is in the

middle, flat-ceilinged room, entitled The Altar Boy and the Apprentice Confectioner, by a

French painter. You can see a dimly lit corner of a big building, where two youngsters hastily

meet and exchange their treasures: wine for mass and fresh cookies. They are in a visible

hurry, lest they are caught.

Street Names with a Story Behind

V. Vörösmarty tér

This central square was once called Spazieren Platz (Walking Square), then Theater Platz

(after the German theatre here), In 1874 a rich merchant of Greek origin who had a large

house there offered a large sum in case the square is named after his family. The city council

hesitated, but chose the name “Gizella”, after the then newly born daughter of the king. Since

1926 the square is named after the great Romatic poet, who lived 1800-1855.

V. Falk Miksa

The street of antique shops is named after a sort of child prodigy of modest origin. (1828-

1908). He started his career of journalism at the age of 15. He was an influential editor and

MP of the 1870s and 80s. He was also known to be the person who taught Queen Elisabeth

(aka “Sissy”) Hungarian. His name was taken off the street twice: 1943-1945, and later, 1953-

1990.

V. Miatyánk utca

The tiny street between the two hotels, Le Méridien and Kempinski has a nice name: “Lord’s

Prayer Street”. It is called like that because it is so short that offers just enough time to say a

prayer, one missed during the week. During the Communist times this street name was never

officially changed. There was no need to, since no address contained the name. The street

signs were simply taken off. And were put back in 1990.

V. Váci utca

The shopping street downtown was once called simply called main street. Then Leopold street

after the Hapsburg king who liberated the city from Turkish rule. (From cca. 1695.) The

northern part was renamed Váci utca at the end of the 18th century, when the so called Vác

Gate was pulled down. A century later the merchants of the southern part, still called Leopold

street (Lipót utca then), sent a request to city hall: they want to be called Váci utca as well.

They were listened to.

II. Gül baba utca

The steep, romantic, cobbled street leads us up to a small, but nice memorial of a Dervish or

Turkish monk, who died in 1541, a couple of weeks after the Turkish army conquered Buda.

His name means “father of Roses”, and the hill was named after him as well (Cf. Rózsadomb

“rose hill”, a chic residential area.

Windows with a View

National Gallery. Historical Paintings Exhibition, Second Floor

The large Castle Hill museum, in the former Royal Palace includes four of the five riverfront

wings, except for one at the left end. On the second floor there is show of large sombre

canvases, focusing on the highlights of the ups and downs of the country’s history full of

names a visitor needs an encyclopaedia to have a clue. On the riverfront there are large

windows covered with semi-transparent linen curtains. They convert vies into quasi-paintings,

a great comfort for tired eyes.

WestEnd Roof garden

Windows usually offer views on the outside world. Not in this case. If one walks on the top of

this giant complex, it is a singular feeling to peep into the maelstrom of consumerism, where

thousands come and go like ants directed by supply and demand. Especially in the evening,

when teenage couples flood the benches outside, and the inside is illuminated. One feels a

non-voyeur Gulliver, with noble instincts.

Institut Français, Bibliothèque

This Buda riverfront building was a rare exception: a high quality contemporary design,

erected just after the fall of the wall. (George Maurios, 1992.) It has a great café and

bookshop and auditorium, but the view to enjoy is really from the Mediatheque on the 4th

floor. A singular one on Parliament Building, Chain Bridge, and everything else. From 10-19

daily, 10-13 on Saturday. There is another view, from the first floor lounge, towards the

inside of the adjacent block, there you can get a glimpse of the local postman bringing the

pension for old Mrs. Kovács. (I. Fő utca 17.)

Where to have a quick bite

Falafel Faloda (VI. Paulay Ede utca 53., corner Nagymező utca.) A vegetarian salad bar,

with good chickpea balls, crowded seating upstairs. Students of the nearby Conservatory,

sometimes professors as well, including one of the greatest cellists of our times.

Főzelék Faló (VI. Nagymező utca 22.) This a very small shop with hardly any space to stand,

with a constant queue in lunchtime. A specialist of “főzelék”, a vegetable dish with roux. In

the heart of Budapest Broadway, the theatre district. Actors, theatre folks until quite late.

Hold utca Market (V. Hold utca 13.) A traditional market with a great choice of all kinds of

quick bites. Bank ladies of all ages, mixed with tourists and construction workers. A good fish

vendor, not to be overlooked.