clark smith: #dwcc13 keynote
DESCRIPTION
Is our ongoing reliance on flavour-wheels, WSET standard notes and 100-point scales holding us back? If we can free ourselves from excess baggage, from having to repeat the same clichés in order to be taken seriously, might it also liberate the wine commentator to finally “think different”? Would it also allow winemakers to experiment more openly to create better wines and encourage a more open exchange between wineries and consumers? Clark will come to present his view on this subject, and his call to develop a new, effective language of flavour and style. Presentation owned and copywritten by Clark Smith 2013TRANSCRIPT
“The single biggest problem with communication
is the illusion that it has taken place.”
- George Bernard Shaw
Six Causes of the Bad Marriage
• Increased competition
• Technological revolution
• Paradigm shift in enology
• A social revolution in ethics
• Failure rate for technology
• Critical wine review has become bloodsport
Postmodern Winemaking Symposium
Sixty winemakers
rethinking the modern science
of an ancient craft.
November 9 & 10, 2013
Santa Rosa, CA and via Webex
Day 1*Vineyard Enology: Vine balance, living soil, ripeness
*Fermentation & co-extraction
*Oenological oxygen
*Structure building & aromatic integration
*The Seven Functions of Oak
*America's Exploding Winemaking Diversity
*Cognitive Oenology: Wine as liquid music
Day 2*Yeast Inoculation Pros and Cons
*Microbial balance ("Integrated Brett Management")
*Reduction: friend or foe?
*Minerality
*Biodynamics
*Sulfite-free winemaking
*Natural Wines, manipulation, & technology
Small Wineries Are Confused
• Target the mainstream or the fringes?(10,000 cases requires passionate
acceptance by only 0.0001% of the market)
• What do Natural Wine consumers really want?
• What is manipulation?
www.PostmodernWinemaking.com
/full-disclosure-winemaking-practices
Vineyard Practices
• Organic Certification• Biodynamic• No tillage• No pesticides• No herbicides• Irrigation• Soil Food Web score• Extended hang time
Additions• Acid• Amelioration (water addition)• Tannin products• Enzymes• Fortification• Sulfites• Chaptalization• GMOs• Diammonium Phosphate (DAP)• Copper
Cellar Treatments• Bentonite• Yeast / bacterial inoculum • Animal products• Color concentrate• Velcorin• Inert gas• Oxygen• New barrel %• Non barrel oak adjuncts• Barrel wheat paste contact
Cellar Practices• Organic certified winery• Stainless steel only• Suppressed malolactic• Varietal purity• Residual sugar ("dry styles")• Non gravity (powered) racking• Alcohol adjustment• Micro-oxygenation• Centrifugation• Diatomaceous earth filtration• Sterile filtration
Bottling Choices
• Closure options • Recycled glass• Recycled paper labels• Bag in the box• Glass weight and carbon footprint• Appellation designation
ma·nip·u·la·tion (noun).
1. Treatment or operation with or as if with the hands or by mechanical means, especially in a skillful manner.
2. Shrewd or devious management by artful, unfair, or insidious means, especially to one's own advantage.
A Few Controversial Topics
• Yeast Inoculation
• Micro-oxygenation
• Alcohol adjustment via reverse osmosis
• Oak chips vs. new French oak barrels
Misconceptions
• Sameness: The Diversity Paradox
• Blaming the Tools
• Scoring via the 100-point system
Eight Natural Wine Constituencies
• Non-interventionist: “The best wine makes itself.”• Environmentalist: “Make wine sustainably.”• Conventionalist: “No weird stuff.“• Traditionalist: Prefers time-tested methods.• Health Conscious: Wine should be safe and wholesome.• Collector: Suspicious of experimental techniques.• Authenticity Purist: No additives. “Let’s taste the flaws.”• Terroiriste: Passionate about unique flavors of place.
How bloggers can change the world
1. Report what is in the bottle.
How bloggers can change the world
1. Report what is in the bottle.2. Tell the real stories.
How bloggers can change the world
1. Report what is in the bottle.2. Tell the real stories.3. Choose your battles.
How bloggers can change the world
1. Report what is in the bottle.2. Tell the real stories.3. Choose your battles.4. Co-create a universal language for wine flavor
and style.
Five Step Flavour Space Developmental Plan
1. Agree on Flavour Terminology
Intensity Terms • Fruit Intensity 0-5• Sweetness 0-5• Body 0-5• Tannin grain 0-5• Plushness 0-5• Acidity 0-5• Heat 0-5• Vanilla 0-5• Cocoa 0-5• Toast 0-5• Butter 0-5• Herbal 0-5• Earthiness 0-5
Holistic Terms • Obviousness: Generous ------------------------Austere• Brightness: Energetic -------------------------Mild• Dimension: Complex --------------------------Straightforward• Charm: Aloof-------------------------------Inviting• Allure: Pretty ------------------------------Sexy• Drinkability: Ready-------------------------------Ageworthy• Architecture: Angular-----------------------------Rounded• Mood: Cheerful----------------------------Dour• Impact: Delicate-----------------------------Striking• Style: Elegant------------------------------Rustic• Maturity: Fresh---------------------------------Evolved
Five Step Flavour Space Developmental Plan
1. Agree on Flavour Terminology2. Characterize classic appellations and outliers3. Computer-generated Flavour Space
Barolo
MoselDolcetto
Medoc
Chianti
Savennieres
Beaujolais
Corton
Qvevri
Rheingau
Alsace
Rosé d’Anjou
Madiran
Nero d’Avola
Rosé de Provence
Rioja
Hermitage
Gevrey Chambertin
Chinon
Simplified 2-D Example Flavour Space
Five Step Flavour Space Developmental Plan
1. Agree on Flavour Terminology2. Characterize classic appellations and outliers3. Computer-generated Flavour Space4. Blog about it. Interpret the Flavour Space in
human terms.
Five Step Flavour Space Developmental Plan
1. Agree on Flavour Terminology2. Characterize classic appellations and outliers3. Computer-generated Flavour Space4. Blog about it. Interpret the Flavour Space in
human terms.5. Personal Sommelier: App that connects users
to their preferences
Personal Sommelier app
• User-named wine list categories “Fred’s Crisp Dry Whites”, “Fred’s Big Bold Reds”, etc.
• Individual personal algorithms anchored to the Flavour Space
Barolo
MoselDolcetto
Medoc
Chianti
Savennieres
Beaujolais
Corton
Qvevri
Rheingau
Alsace
Rosé d’Anjou
Madiran
Nero d’Avola
Rosé de Provence
Rioja
Hermitage
Gevrey Chambertin
Chinon
Simplified 2-D Example Flavour SpaceFred’s
Dry Whites
Fred’s Rich Reds
Personal Sommelier app
• User-named wine list categories “Fred’s Crisp Dry Whites”, “Fred’s Big Bold Reds”, etc.
• Individual personal algorithms anchored to the Flavour Space
• Selects recommendations from wine list or shop inventory uploaded to web.
• Access to peer reviews, winery stats, and awards
How bloggers can change the world
1. Report what is in the bottle.2. Tell the real stories.3. Choose your battles.4. Co-create a universal language for wine flavor
and style.5. Junk the term “manipulation.” Please.
Be Worthy.
Thank you
for your
kind attention.