ContentsBinsar Wildlife Sanctuary .............................. 42

Delhi–Dehradun Shatabdi ............................ 45

Mussoorie ..............................46

Dhanaulti ................................51

Haridwar & Rishikesh ............................... 54

Shivpuri ................................. 59

Delhi–Kalka Shatabdi ..............................61

Barog .....................................62

Kasauli ................................... 65

Chail .......................................69

Best Shatabdi Trips from Delhi ............................ 4

Need to Know .......................8

Delhi–Kathgodam Shatabdi .............................. 12

Bhimtal ...................................13

Naukuchiatal ..........................16

Sattal .....................................20

Nainital .................................. 23

Ramgarh ................................ 27

Pangot....................................30

Mukteshwar ........................... 33

Ranikhet ................................38

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Shimla .................................... 72

Chandigarh ............................ 77

Delhi–Amritsar Shatabdi ..............................81

Amritsar ................................. 82

Delhi–Ajmer Shatabdi ..............................87

Alwar ......................................88

Sariska ....................................91

Jaipur ..................................... 93

Ajmer & Pushkar ...................98

Delhi–Bhopal Shatabdi ............................103

Mathura & Vrindavan............................. 104

Agra ..................................... 109

Gwalior .................................. 114

Orchha .................................. 118

Khajuraho ............................. 121

Bhopal .................................. 125

Index ..................................130

Acknowledgements ..........138

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Need to KnowThe Shatabdi trains are one of the most convenient and cost-eff ective ways to travel in India. They are fast and fully air-conditioned, you get meals on board, the chairs are comfortable and no journey takes longer than eight hours.

Quick FactsRAILWAY ENQUIRY

%131

BOOKING INFORMATION

%139 – call or SMS your PNR number for ticket status.

INTERNET BOOKING

www.irctc.co.in.

GENERAL INFORMATION

For comprehensive schedules and fares, visit www.indiarailinfo.com.

CLASSES

Shatabdi trains have two classes. The AC chair (CC) and the executive chair (abbreviated to 1A or Ex), which is the equivalent of 1st class. You pay about twice as much for the executive chair in return for considerably more leg room, a selection of newspapers to read on your trip and better crockery. However, the AC chair is also very comfortable.

FARES & DISCOUNTS

Full adult fares must be paid for passengers above the age of 12. A 50% discount is available for children between the ages of 5 and 11, as well as for female senior citizens (age 58 and above). Male senior citizens (age 60 and above) are eligible for a 40% discount. Children below 5 can travel free.

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Snapshot: The Shatabdi storyShatabdis were introduced by the Government of India in 1988 on the centenary of Pandit Jawahar Lal Nehru’s birthday (‘shatabdi’ means ‘centenary’). These high-speed short- to medium-distance intercity trains travel at a maximum permissible speed of 140km/hr. Each journey is covered within a day, and each Shatabdi returns to the station of origin on the same day. There are currently 20 pairs of Shatabdis throughout India.

Left Interiors of an executive chair car Bottom Shatabdis usually depart from Platform No 1

RESERVATIONS

Booking starts four months in advance. It’s best to reserve your seats early, particularly in the tourist seasons (June–July, December–January). You may also pay a surcharge and make tatkal reservations. You can book your ticket at the station or even over the phone (%139; you can pay by ITZ cash card and your ticket is either couriered or emailed to you).

However, the most hassle-free method is online through the Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation Ltd website (www.irctc.co.in). Once you register, you can search for trains on your preferred date and pay online. Note that you must be registered on www.irctc.co.in even if you’re using an external site such as MakeMyTrip (www.makemytrip.com) or ClearTrip (www.cleartrip.com) to make bookings.

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Delhi–Kathgodam ShatabdiDestinations>> Bhimtal, p13 • Naukuchiatal, p16 • Sattal, p20 • Nainital, p23 • Ramgarh, p27 • Pangot, p30 • Mukteshwar, p33 • Ranikhet, p38 • Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary, p42

Train & station: The Anand Vihar–Kathgodam Shatabdi (ANVT–KGM 12040) from the Anand Vihar railway station.

Frequency: Daily, except Thursday.

Departure time: 6.15am.

Arrival time: 11.50am.

Return journey: The train (12039) leaves Kathgodam at 3.45pm, arriving in Delhi at 9.15pm.

Delhi–Kathgodam fares: AC chair/executive `451/ 970 (adults), `239/515 (children & female senior citizens), `280/610 (male senior citizens).

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Highlights • Lakeside walk: A walk on the quiet

side of the lake brings you up close with nature.

• Boating: A great fun activity for the family.

• Aquarium: Row to this island full of fascinating underwater creatures from all over the world.

Why go?Bustling Bhimtal is located next to the Kathgodam–Nainital Highway, but its quiet lakeshore, cradled by low hills, balances out the busy feel. This easy-to-reach Kumaon destination has a large number of resorts and hotels, more than anywhere else in the region. Naukuchiatal (p16) and Sattal (p20) are less than an hour’s drive away.

DRIVE TIMEBhimtal is 17km from Kathgodam; the drive takes about 30 minutes.FARES

A taxi one way costs `300. WHEN TO GO

March–June, September–November DURATION OF STAY

Two–three days.GREAT FOR

Quick facts

Facing page River Kosi as it enters AlmoraTop The placid lake at Bhimtal

Bhimtal Lake of abundance

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1 SightsMukteshwar TempleThousands of temple bells of all sizes hang around the shrine, refl ecting sunlight and the panoramic views, as they preside over Mukteshwar’s highest point. They represent off erings of prayer or gratitude to Shiva, the lord who sets you free (mukt), here represented by a marble linga. The tiny temple, with much new brick and concrete in evidence, nevertheless seems a perfect location for the divine yogi, especially in peaceful spring or autumnal off -season months.

Chauthi ki JaaliHere is high drama, literally. An easy 20-minute walk from Mukteshwar Temple, sheer cliff s and rock faces zoom up for about 2000ft at the edge of a valley and jut out at surreal angles, inviting sunset photos and an itch to try some gentle rappelling.Rock climbing (about 35ft) and

rappelling cost `150, a small fl ying fox and ‘commando climb’ `100; these as well as softer options like archery can be tried in season (11am–6pm). Informally organised by local operators, these activities halt in the monsoon and are available only on advance booking from autumn to spring.

WalksBritish-era bridle paths meander through Mukteshwar’s richly forested slopes, going all the way down to Bhimtal and Kathgodam. There are also several local trails connecting the hamlets. Deodar, oak, rhododendron, pine, kafal, and tilonj will keep you company.•MukteshwarTemple–Sargakhet:If your hotel is in popular Sargakhet, do the Mukteshwar Temple–Sargakhet (6km) forest walk, starting from near the temple. It’s an easy downhill trail (3 hours) and a guide near the temple will go along for `500. A simpler, guide-free

If You Like: Adventure and activityNearly all Mukteshwar hotels can arrange some standard adventure activities for you – rock climbing and rappelling at Chauthi ki Jaali, forest walks or longer treks, are all par for the course. Among these, Camp Purple (p104) stands out for the sheer range of activities on off er. Hotels also organise some popular excursions:

• PicnicatPadampuri: A half-day trip to a lovely mountain stream 25km away; packed lunch and guide (`500) can be arranged.

• TrektoLamahangawaterfall: A 5km hike through the forest with packed lunch; guide (`500) defi nitely needed.

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Bells of all sizes hang around the Mukteshwar Temple

option is to just traipse down the main road – a traffic-free delight – to Sargakhet, experiencing the forests and fantastic views of Ramgarh and Almora valleys.•MukteshwarTemple–Sitla: A route behind the temple goes downhill, once again, to Sitla. This is an easy 3km and can be done in an hour. Check with the resort Sitla Estate if you can drop by for a cuppa and hike up again. •Mukteshwar–Almora:A serious hiking option is the Mukteshwar–Almora one-day bridle path trek. Guides from adventure agencies at Chauthi ki Jaali, or arranged via your hotel, can come along for about `1000; they’ll cook Maggi on the way too. Arrange to drive back.•Bhatelia–Sargakhet: If you are staying in a hotel in either of these Mukteshwar ‘suburbs’, this is

another long and lovely bridle path option, with the added advantage that you can start or end with satisfying pakodasat Sargakhet’s Madhuvandhaba (p37).

PWD BungalowA lesson in geography is to be had at the charming old PWD bungalow, a few minutes’ walk behind the temple, where Jim Corbett once stayed. The shining peaks of Chaukhamba, Neel Kanth, Trishul, Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot, Panchachuli, Annapurna, and more, spread out, completely occupying your field of vision.The bungalow is situated such that no tree obstructs your view. You do need, however, to request permission before you enter these grounds.

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4 AccommodationWest View Hotel HeRitaGe Hotel ```

%05966–220261, 221075; www.westviewhotel.com; the Mall; d `9000–12,000 2-night package with 2 meals (high season); Wp Beautifully set in an erstwhile British club, this hotel retains much of its 1918 stone-cottage feel. Look forward to vast lawns, gracious pines, comfy suites, spa massages and open-air buff ets.

Chevron Rosemount HeRitaGe Hotel ``

%05966–221391; 011–22753151; www.chevronhotels.com; the Mall; d `6500–7000; p Here’s your ‘lord of the manor’ holiday: a lovely century-old building in the woods, well-kept lawns-with-a-view, glorious, if creaky wooden fl oors… When you get over the size of your room, you can also pause to admire the teapot and stamp collection.

Windsor Lodge HeRitaGe Hotel ``

%05966–222098–99, www.windsorlodge.in; Kalika estate, dadgallia; d `6000–8500; ps Restored in 1999, Windsor Lodge has retained its heritage ambience but now has mini bars and TVs. Views take in the golf course and silver peaks. For action, take your pick from billiards, table tennis and a gym. Or relax at the spa.

Holm Farm HeRitaGe Hotel ``

%05966–220891; www.holmfarmranikhet.com; d `3100–3800; p The fi rst British bungalow in Ranikhet (dating to 1869), Holm Farm is set in acres of orchard land among thick forest, 2½km from town. Colonial furniture, beautifully renovated loos, fi replaces – all accompanied by a choice of adventure activities.

Valley View Estate HoMestaY ``

%05966–240266, 9412093826; naini, Post Kalika; d `3500 incl breakfast; p Sabrina Singh has created this well-managed

if You like: Walks• The Mall can be broken into easily walkable stretches, while lanes leading off it are always rewarding.

• Serious walkers, try the route to Chaubatia Orchards from hotels Meghdoot (7km) or West View (5km).

• A trail leads up from near Meghdoot to the AMU guesthouse and further. Watch out for old British-era bungalows.

• Two easy tree-lined hikes lead off from Hotel West View; one to Chevron Rosemount (2km) and the other to Jhula Devi Temple (1½km).

• A forested hike leads from Chaubatia Orchards to Holm Farm (2½km).

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Windsor Lodge is a heritage property restored in 1999

homestay in Majkhali. Here, there are song birds aplenty, friendly dogs, valley views, beautiful trees, good cooking and attractive rooms.

Hotel Meghdoot Hotel `

%05966–220475, 9411525866; the Mall; r `1500–2400; p This is your budget option, right on Mall Road but away from crowded Sadar Bazaar.

5 EatingChevron Rosemount Multi-Cuisine `

%05966–221391; 011–22753151; www.chevronhotels.com; Chevron Rosemount, the Mall Visit Rosemount for a meal, but also to enjoy its architecture, lawns and gracious ambience. Try the grilled fish in orange butter sauce, honey citrus chicken, or the local aloo ka gutka and makkitamatar nu saag. Call in advance.

Valley View Cafe ``

%05966–240266, 9412093826; naini, Post Kalika Drop by at this charming cafe for a good breakfast or maybe a platter of chicken burger, potatoes and toast. Pick up Mrs Singh’s famous banana and date cake.

Ranikhet Club Multi-Cuisine ``

%05966–220611; the Mall; 8.30am–10.30pm The old Ranikhet Club allows non-members (entry `50 per couple). Marvel at the ageing woodwork while chomping on sizzlers or fish with tartar sauce.

Moon Hotel noRtH indian ``

%9917086868, 9999450650; Hotel Moon, ellias Bldg, sadar Bazaar This popular place does a roaring business in masala Indian. Try dishes with names like Honeymoon Dilruba or Haseenon ki Pasand Shahi Mutton.

7 ShoppingShawl and Tweed FactoryMethodist Church, above nar singh Ground; usually 9.30am–5.30pm You can watch shawls being woven, and also pick up merino beauties (`575–850), tweed coats (`2050), and more.

Himjoli%9412963640; opp Baba Haidakhan temple, Chilianaula; 9am–7pm This colourful outlet of a local NGO stocks herbal tea infusions (`60), handcrafted soaps (`90 for 3), organic honey (`190) and more.

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