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INTRODUCTION
Lasting is a major operation of shoe makingprocess.
It changes a flat upper to a 3-dimensional shape.
This operation is further divided into 3 parts :
Lasting
Assembl Lasting !ottoming
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LAST
"eplica of human foot.
A foot model #ith almost same dimensions andshape as that of foot.
$ome e%tra material ma be added to suit thecurrent stle.
&.g. - 'ointed toe
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TYPES OF LAST
$(LI) !L(*+ LA$T
$TA,)A") I,&)
LA$T
$LI)&-(-/ATI* LA$T
$*((' LA$T
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TRADITIONAL LAST
/ade of hard#oods.
0sed to s#ell orshrink acc. totemperature.
$hoe #as difficult to
delast.(nce distorted cannot
be used again.
andmade #ithout
distinction for left andright.
MODERN LAST
/ade of plastics.
)urable #ith respectto the temperature.
1a% finish2 shoe canbe easil delasted.
445 recclable highdensit plastic.
*learl distinguishedleft and right foot last.
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LASTING
The process of
stretching upper over
the last and securing
it to the insole #iththe help of adhesive
is called lasting.
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LASTING
DIRECT
ATTACHMENT$tuck-on construction
/oulded construction
INDIRECT
ATTACHMENToodear #elted
$titched do#n
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TYPES OF LASTING
LA$TI, 0'
LA$TI, )(1,
6("*& LA$TI,
$T"I, LA$TI,
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*(/'(,&,T$
The pla a major role in the proper
lasting of shoe.
*omponents include:
. rinderies
7. Adhesives
3. Toe puffs8. *ounter stiffeners.
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METHODS OF LASTING
!9 "I,)&"I&$
!9 A)&$I&
!9 $T"I,
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Grinderies-Tacks 2 nails and
staples
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ADHESIVES
'ressure sensitive - neoprene
ot melt adhesive - polamide
eat activated adhesive - polurethane
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TOE PUFFS AND STIFFNERS
A stiff material used to give shape to the forepart andback part of the shoe.
Inserted bet#een lining and upper. "etains the shape of the last even after delasting. /a be flat or moulded. *an be solvent based or thermoplastic.
&nhance the appearance of the shoe.
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HAND LASTING PULLS
7 basic pulls to
contour upper to the
last.
Also kno#n asdrafting.
)one #ith the help of
3mm and ; mm
tacks.
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Lasting principes
Topline should be reasonabl tight andsnapp.
(uter
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6A0LT$
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T((L$
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TOOLS
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CONSTRUCTIONS
$ome specific
operations done in
order to attach the
sole to the lastedupper.
/a be simple
sticking or use of
some immediatecomponents like
#elt2etc.
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CONSTRUCTIONS
CEMENTED$T0*+ (,
STITCHED$A, *"I$'I,((()9&A" 1<&)
/A*+A9/(**A$I,
MOULDED
)I')'
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CONSTRUCTIONS
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INSOLE ATTACHING
'roperl mouldedinsole is attached to
the bottom of last2 b
the mean of tacks or
late%. Insole should be so
placed that it comes
in level #ith last
bottom 2just under the
featheredge.
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UPPER PREPARATION
Insole attachment
'lacing of toe puff
'lacing of counter stiffener
'asting of lining to the upper2 leaving no
#rinkles or air pockets open.
$titching of toe puff along #ith lining=upper. >machine lasting?
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SCOURING
"emoves the grain surface of the upper
revealing the flesh portion2 for adhesive
penetration.
"emoves the e%cess leather from forepart
and back part.
Also done to shape the heels.
Abrasives are used for scouring.
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TYPES OF ABRASIVES
Aluminium oxideReddish-brown
Silicon carbideBlack
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GROUPS OF A!RASIVES
C"#rse grit N"$ %& ' ()*Leaves a rough finish.
'leats in toe lasting
Medi#+ grit N"$ ,) - .%)*Leaves a rough finish.
$haping of heels.
Fine grit N"$ ./) ' %&)*Leaves a ver smooth finish.
$ole preparation prior to inking.
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A!RASIVES
Made Up O01-
!acking material
Adhesive bonding agent
rit >abrasive particles?
$i@ing agent >to hold grit in place?
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ROUGHING "aise the fibers of the scoured upper for proper
adhesion and solid bonding.
1ire brush is used for roughing.
TYPES OF SPI2E
STEEL/edium to heavier leather
*orrected grain leather
!RASS$oft and delicate leather
sheepgoat leather
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S"e preparati"n
3IPING
To clean sole from dirt
for better adhesion.
*an be done #ith
/&+.
&.g..B '0 2 '* soles
PRIMING
To chemicall activate
the surface for properbonding.
*an be done onl b
specific primers. &gg.- T'" soles.
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'lasticit and &lasticit are inherent properties of
leather #hich helps it to convert from a flat skin to 3-)
shoe. To smoothl #ork on this propert &AT
$&TTI, is done.
Leat4er. Te+perat#re$
$uede2 nubuck2pu coated. )r air at 74 B 34*
split2 most grain leather.
'0 patent2 '* coated. )r air at 44*6abrics.
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HEAT SETTING
)one to rela% the various lasting strains.
elps upper to retain the shape of the last.
TYPES OF HEAT SETTER
Infra red etter
Hig4 5e"cit6 air setter
Dr6 4eat setter
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INFRA RED SETTER
Infra red heat elements #ere used.)isadvantage B ver directional form of heat2
certain parts did not receive proper heat
treatment.
DRY HEAT SETTER
0sed onl for snthetic material.
,o moisture to soften the upper.
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HIGH VELOCITY AIR SETTER
igh air speed tpicall 7 B 8mtsec.
7 sections in cabinet.
st
section- hot moist air to soften upper.7ndsection- hot dr air to remove moisture
and set the shoe to last.
(ver all flo# of air.
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SOLE PRESS
Traditional tpe &nveloping bag
(f presses presses
)#ell time B 7 -C sec.
'ressure - C bars depending on the solematerial .
Less for softer material B T'"
/ore for harder material B Leather
CAR!ON PAPER TEST
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CAR!ON PAPER TEST
Lasted upper = sole is prepared
e%cluding adhesive.
. $ole
7. )otted rubber sheet
3. 1hite paper
8. *arbon paper
C. 1hite paper
D. Lasted upper