earth mosaic shawl - crochet! magazinepattern calls. for this pattern, we will set the loom to 3...

From CroChet! magazine, march 2010, vol. 23, no. 2, copyright © 2010 CroChet! magazine

G AU G E

2 strands held tog: 34 lps on both sides = 4 inches

PAT T E R N N OT E

Join with slip stitch as indicated unless otherwise stated.

SPECIAL STITCHES

Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook.Triple Picot: Ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, (ch 3, sl st in same ch as last sl st) twice.Join Picot: Joins 2 motifs tog on 1 side, through joining 3 triple picots - [Ch 3, picot, ch 1, sl st to corresponding center picot, ch 1, sl st to same st as last picot, picot, ch 3, sc in next sc] 3 times.

HAIRPIN LACEHairpin lace is a deceptively

simple crochet technique that was first practiced on ladies’ hairpins in Victorian times to

make delicate bonnets and in-sertions. It gained resurgence for the elegant stoles and dainty baby blankets of the 1950s and 1960s and was later resurrected in the 1970s for groovy fashions during the hippie-craft revo-lution. Because it is so fast to work and is so striking, hairpin lace is a “must try” for the mod-ern crocheter who wants a quick project with beautifully intricate results that are deceptively sim-ple to achieve.

Using a crochet hook and a special tool called a loom or frame, hairpin lace involves creat-ing strips, and then joining them together with crochet stitches. There are many approaches to joining strips, and in the follow-ing project, we demonstrate one way for using hairpin lace strips as motifs to be worked in a join-as-you-go style project. You only need two things to get started—a basic knowledge of crochet stitches (chain, single crochet and triple treble) and a hairpin lace loom. One important thing to note about the loom: Width settings of adjustable looms vary between

manufacturers, so check both the pattern and your loom to ensure you can get to within 1/8 inch of the width settings called for with-in the pattern. We suggest the hairpin lace loom created by Jen-kins Woodworking and available for purchase at fine yarn stores or online at Stitch Diva Studios, www.StitchDiva.com.

S H Aw L

Motif StripsMake 27.

Although there are many ways to create a hairpin lace strip, most hairpin lace patterns call for the basic strip and if no explicit notes exist in the pattern to indicate otherwise, most patterns assume the following method of strip construction. It is interesting to note that while hairpin lace proj-ects can look so vastly different, it is the joins that differentiate the project and embody the creativity in the technique.

Set up the loom by inserting the prongs into the frame of the loom at the width for which the pattern calls. For this pattern, we will set the loom to 3 inches. Ori-ent the loom so that the prongs

Learn the beautifuL technique of hairpin Lace, and create this stunning wrap with our step-by-step tutoriaL!

earth Mosaic shawLD E S I G N B Y J E N N I F E R H A N S E N

S K I L L L E V E L

F I N I S H E D S I Z E

One size fits all

M AT E R I A L S

• Berocco Seduce fine (sport) weight rayon/linen/silk/nylon yarn (11/4 oz/100 yds/40g per hank):

6 hanks #4436 rye5 hanks #4430 earth stone

• Size G/6/4mm crochet hook • Adjustable hairpin lace loom• Tapestry needle


E A R T H M O S A I C S H Aw L

are at top and the bottom frame can be slid off easily to remove the strip (see Photo 1).

Holding 2 strands of MC to-gether, secure yarn with a slip knot to one prong of the hairpin lace loom, making sure to leave a 4 inches starting tail. Wrap yarn from front to back over opposite prong and bring yarn around at the back of the loom. The side of the loom to which you attach the loop is the side that you will work with the crochet hook for the en-tire strip. Right-handed crocheters will attach the loop to the left-side prong, while left-handed crochet-ers will attach to the right side. Right-hand setup is pictured in this tutorial (see Photo 2).

At this point, you should now attach guidelines (see Guidelines Box) to your work—without them, your hairpin lace strips can get hopelessly tangled and twisted once you remove them from the loom. They keep your strips

secure and portable while you store them for joining, help identify the front and back loops of the threads when joining, and they mark the beginning and ending sides of your strip. Use them; they will save you hours of time and the frustration of having to redo your work.

Start the strip! The first stitch of the strip is different than all the other stitches you will make. Insert hook from bottom to top through the front thread of the loop on the loom (see Photo 3).

Pull through a loop then ch 1. This completes the first stitch of the strip (see Photo 4).

Prepare to turn the loom by twisting hook so that handle side faces up, and insert the handle end of the hook through the loom above the work. Keep the loop on the hook (see Photo 5).

Move hand to back of loom, grab handle and flip the hook up-right at the back of the loom, still keeping the loop on the hook (see Photo 6).

Photo 1

Photo 2

Photo 3

Photo 6

Photo 4

Photo 5



Flip the loom, allowing yarn to wrap around loom as you turn (in the photo, Prong B has turned to-wards the camera and flipped po-sitions with Prong A). You should be holding the hook in the front with one hand and keeping ten-sion on the yarn in the back with the other (see Photo 7).

Tip: When working the strip, consistently flip the loom so that the side of the loom you are work-ing flips away from you, while the side you are not working flips to-wards you.

The basic strip is made on the loom by working single crochet stitches through the front thread of the uppermost loop on the loom. Insert hook under thread of topmost loop on the prong you are working, pull through a loop, and then pull through another loop (single crochet) (see Photo 8).

Flip loom. Continue doing sc in the uppermost loop, then flip-ping the loom (see Photo 9). Make 48 loops per strip (24 loops per side).

Tip: Keep the work as low as possible on the loom in order to allow as much room as possible to pass the crochet hook from front to back. Maintain tension on the yarn with your non-hook hand to control placement of the loops on the loom.

Tie-off tip: To neaten up your last loops, insert your hook from top to bottom through the back thread of the loop on the prong opposite to the one just worked. Yarn over and pull loop through the loop on the hook. Now tie off, leaving a 4-inch end.

GUIDELINE BOxGuidelines are easy—just

lengths of string tied to the loom make guidelines, as you can see in

our “How to” photos: Step 1: Cut a length of scrap

yarn (crochet thread works great!) to measure a little more than double the length of the strip you want to make. With the first loop attached to your loom, thread one end of the yarn through the loop on the loom from the bottom to the top.

Step 2: Secure this end of the guideline to the top of your hair-pin lace loom with any kind of knot, and then secure the opposite end of the yarn to the top of the hairpin lace loom on the opposite side in the same way. (See Step 2 photo—Making the Motif Strips)

Step 3: No dangly janglies! Wind any extra guideline length around the bottom of your frame/prongs and secure with a rubber band if necessary. (See Step 2 pho-to—Making the Motif Strips)

Work the strip as if the guide-lines aren’t there When you work your hairpin lace strip over the prongs of the frame, make sure that you are also working over the guidelines. They should run through the loops of the strip.

REMOVING When you have completed the

strip, remove the guidelines from the top of the hairpin lace loom, and tie the ends together. Slide the strip off the loom. You will notice that on one side of the strip the guideline is tied together—this is the tie-off end of the strip. On the

Photo 7

Photo 8

Photo 9

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other end of the strip, the guide-line is continuous and forms a "U" running from one side of the strip to the other. This "U" side of the strip identifies the starting end of the strip and will be the side you want to start from when joining strips together.

CREATING AND JOINING THE MOTIFS

Joining hairpin lace strips is a crochet activity, not a "finishing" activity, and you can hold the work in your normal crochet position as you join. The work is portable and can be done on your lap. For this project, you will create motifs out of the hairpin strips by joining each strip into a round as shown in “Motif Inside Circle.” You will then edge/join each of these motifs as shown in “Motif Edging.”

When working crochet stitches into the hairpin lace loops, you may notice that the loops have a natural little twist. When insert-ing the crochet hook into a hairpin lace loop for joining or edging, be aware that the direction used to in-sert the crochet hook into the loop will have a profound effect on the appearance of the finished fabric.

MOTIF INSIDE CIRCLEEach inside circle is done

through a group of 4 triple-twisted loops.

Run a 6-inch length of MC through 4 triple-twisted loops at a time, tie in a knot and weave in

ends of the length of yarn. Use starting and ending tails to weave the beginning and end of the strip to each other into a continuous round (see Photo 10). (6 groups of loops)

TO TRIPLE-TwIST A GROUP OF LOOPS

Insert the tapestry needle through a group of 4 loops (re-member that each loop is com-prised of 2 yarn strands). Twist the needle around clockwise for 3 en-tire turns to introduce an extreme twist to the loops. The loops will compress and distort—this is what you want.

TIE INSIDE CIRCLE The length of yarn is tied into

a sturdy knot. Weave the tails through the middle of the motif, and trim.

Use the beginning and end-ing tails of the strip to join the flat strip into a continuous round (see Photo 11).

MOTIF EDGINGThe motif is edged/joined

without turning, using a single strand of yarn. Depending on whether the motif is the first motif created, or bordered by other mo-tifs on 1 or 2 sides as it is joined, the following instructions will dif-fer. In all cases, the first 2 rounds are worked identically, but the 24 triple picots of the last round are worked slightly differently de-pending on how many motifs will be joined in the last round as per the following instructions.Rnd 1 (RS): Work twisted loops through-out. With MC, join (see Pattern Note) in any lp, [ch 4, sc in next lp] around ending with ch 4, join in beg sc. Fasten off (see Photo 12).

Photo 10

Photo 11


Photo 12


To sc in a twisted loop: Insert the crochet hook into the back of the loop and work sc. If using guidelines, you will be inserting the hook into the thread of the loop that is in back of the guideline.

Once you have edged the motif, all loops are now secure. You can now safely remove the guidelines.

Join the contrast yarn to work the remaining rounds. Rnd 2: Join CC in any ch sp, [ch 2, picot (see Special Stitches), ch 2, sc in next ch sp] around, ending with ch 2, picot, ch 2, join in beg sl st (see Photo 13).

Rnd 3: Work this rnd based on the posi-tion of the Motif in the Shawl as indicated in Assembly Diagram (see Fig. 1). This rnd is based on the triple picot.Rnd 3 (cont): To join as you work, hold both Motifs with WS facing. Motifs are joined tog through the center picot of the triple picot (see Photo 14).

When joining, hold Motifs with WS facing. Work rnd 3 as indicated by letter on the diagram. Rnd 3 (A): Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, tri-ple picot (see Special Stitches), ch 3, sc in next sc] around, join in beg sc. Fasten off.Rnd 3 (B): Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, triple picot, ch 3, sc in next sc] 21 times, join picot (see Special Stitches) to Motif on right, join in beg sc. Fasten off.Rnd 3 (C): Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, triple picot, ch 3, sc in next sc] 21 times, join picot to Motif below, join in beg sc. Fasten off.Rnd 3 (D): Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, triple picot, ch 3, sc in next sc] 15 times, join picot to Motif below, [ch 3, triple picot, ch 3, sc in next sc] 3 times, join picot to Motif on right, join in beg sc. Fasten off.Rep row 2 on Assembly Diagram 7 times for total of 9 rows.

FILLER MOTIFSOnce all hairpin Motifs are

edged and joined, work the follow-ing instructions to fill in the gaps.

Center Fill-In Motif These Motifs are worked in place within the sp created by 4 joined Motifs as shown on diagram.With CC, ch 1, (trtr, picot, dtr, picot, trtr, picot) in each of the first of 3 consecutive triple picots around to join all 4 Motifs, join in beg ch-1. Fasten off.Rep Center Fill-in Motif in all open sps.

Side Fill-In Motif These Motifs are worked at the side of the Shawl and fill the small space between 2 joined Motifs at edge (see Fig. 1). Worked into the center picot of 6 triple picots, sl st to center picot of 3rd triple picot from join on right-hand motif, ch 4, picot, ch 1, tr in next picot, picot, ch 1, [dc in next picot, picot, ch 1] twice, tr in next picot, picot, ch 1, trtr in next picot, picot. Fasten off.Rep around outer edges.Block as necessary. C!

Photo 14

Photo 13

Side: fill in motif

Center: fill in motif

Half motifFig. 1

Earth Mosaic ShawlAssembly Diagram

Row 2

Row 1

Rnd 3

Rnd 3 Rnd 3 Rnd 3

D

A B B

Rnd 3D

Rnd 3C



S T I TC H G U I D E

F o r m o r e c o m p l e t e i n F o r m a t i o n , v i s i t F R E E p A t t E R N S . C o M

beg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . begin/begins/beginning bpdc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . back post double crochet bpsc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .back post single crochet bptr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .back post treble crochet CC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . contrasting color ch(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . chain(s) ch- . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . refers to chain or space

previously made (i.e., ch-1 space) ch sp(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . chain space(s) cl(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .cluster(s) cm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . centimeter(s) dc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . double crochet (singular/plural) dc dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . double crochet 2 or more

stitches together, as indicated dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . decrease/decreases/decreasing dtr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . double treble crochet ext . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .extended fpdc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . front post double crochet fpsc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . front post single crochet fptr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .front post treble crochet g . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . gram(s) hdc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .half double crochet hdc dec . . . . . . . . . . . . half double crochet 2 or more

stitches together, as indicated inc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . increase/increases/increasing lp(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .loop(s) MC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .main color mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . millimeter(s) oz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ounce(s) pc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .popcorn(s) rem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . remain/remains/remaining rep(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .repeat(s) rnd(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . round(s) RS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . right side sc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . single crochet (singular/plural) sc dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .single crochet 2 or more

stitches together, as indicated sk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . skip/skipped/skipping sl st(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .slip stitch(es) sp(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . space(s)/spaced st(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .stitch(es) tog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .together tr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . treble crochet trtr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .triple treble WS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . wrong side yd(s) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . yard(s) yo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . yarn over

Single crochet decrease (sc dec): (insert hook, yo, draw lp through) in each of the sts indicated, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

Half double crochet decrease (hdc dec): (yo, insert hook, yo, draw lp through) in each of the sts indicated, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

Double crochet decrease (dc dec): (yo, insert hook, yo, draw loop through, draw through 2 lps on hook) in each of the sts indicated, yo, draw through all lps on hook.

example of 2-sc dec example of 2-hdc dec example of 2-dc dec

Slip stitch—sl st: insert hook in st, pull through both lps on hook.

Half double crochet—hdc: yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, yo, pull through all 3 lps on hook.

Chain—ch: yo, pull through lp on hook.

Single crochet—sc: insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, yo, pull through both lps on hook.

Front loop Back loop

Front post stitch—fp: Back post stitch—bp: When working post st, insert hook from right to left around post st on previous row.

Back Front

post of

stitch

Change colors: Drop first color; with 2nd color, pull through last 2 lps of st.

Double crochet—dc: yo, insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, [yo, pull through 2 lps] twice.

treble crochet—tr: yo twice, insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, [yo, pull through 2 lps] 3 times.

Double treble crochet—dtr: yo 3 times, insert hook in st, yo, pull through st, [yo, pull through 2 lps] 4 times.

U N I t E D S tAt E S U N I t E D K I N G D o Msl st (slip stitch) = sc (single crochet)

sc (single crochet) = dc (double crochet)hdc (half double crochet) = htr (half treble crochet)

dc (double crochet) = tr (treble crochet)tr (treble crochet) = dtr (double treble crochet)

dtr (double treble crochet) = ttr (triple treble crochet)skip = miss

treble crochet decrease (tr dec): holding back last lp of each st, tr in each of the sts indicated, yo, pull through all lps on hook.Example of 2-tr dec example of 2-tr dec

A B B R E v I A t I o N S Front loop—front lpBack loop— back lp

earth mosaic shawl - crochet! magazinepattern calls. for this pattern, we will set the loom to 3...

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