Ellen Pants

Burda Stylewww.burdastyle.com

Sewing Instructions for Pants Sizes 34,36,38, 40,42,44 Fabric needed Length of Pants (Sides): about 105 cm (41 inches) The upper edge of the pants sits about 3 cm (1 ¼ inches) from the waistline Tweed, 140 cm (55 inches) wide Sizes 34,36,38: 1.50 meters (59 inches) Sizes 40, 42,44: 1.55 meters (61 inches) Size 46: 1.95 meters (76 ¾ inches) Lining, 140 cm (55 inches) wide, 0.50 meters (19 ¾ inches) for all sizes 0.30 meters (11 ¾ inches) Vlieseline G785, 90 cm (35 ½ inches) wide 4 Buttons 1 Zip, Size 34,36,38: 8 cm, Size 40,42,44: 10 cm (4 inches) Sewing thread Preparing Pattern Pieces All instructions for cutting can be found in the cutting chart above. Cut pattern pieces along the lines according to the size you wish to sew. The stitching line for the zip in part 1 is only depicted for a size 34. For all other sizes, draw the stitching line at the same distance of the front middle as in the size 34. Pay attention to the length of the slit. Cutting Out The cutting instructions below show how to place the pattern pieces on the fabric. When placing the pieces on the fabric, make sure that the grain lines depicted on the pattern pieces run parallel to the grain of the fabric. 1 Front Pant Piece 2x 2 Back Pant Piece 2x 3 Front Waistband 4x 4 Back Waistband 4x a.) Left underlap for slit: For sizes 34,36,38: 9 cm For sizes 40,42,44: 11cm long, 5 cm wide, finished width: 2.5 cm 7 Placket 6x 16 Pocket 3x b.) 4 Belt Loops, about 32 cm long total, 7.5 cm wide (including seam allowances) Lining: 1 Front Pant Piece ending at lining line 2x 16 Pocket 3x Interfacing All pieces that are depicted as grey areas on the copy paper should be cut as interfacing with the same grain directions as the fabric pieces. Iron interfacing onto the wrong side of the outer waistband pieces and the outer flap pieces. Transferring Pattern Markings Place the pieces with interfacing onto each other, right sides facing. Pin pattern pieces again.

With a tracing wheel and paper, transfer pattern markings (sewing and seam lines) as well as all the marked lines on the pattern pieces (except for the grain markings) onto the wrong side of the fabric (detailed instructions can be found on the pattern). Transfer the stitching line for the zip, the front middle, wrap, base and flap base lines, the vertical lines and the pleating lines onto the right side of the fabric, stitching by hand with wide stitches along those lines. Sewing Right Side Wrong Side Interfacing Lining When pinning and stitching the seams, the right sides of the fabric are facing. Secure beginning and end of the seam line with reverse stitches. 1.) Darts Fold back Pant Pieces so that the dart lines meet, right sides facing. Pin dart lines onto each other. Stitch, starting at the upper edge, secure seam beginning with reverse stitches. Tie thread at the tip of the dart. (1) Iron the dart to the back middle.

2.) Placket Iron the seam allowances at the plackets folded to the inside (2). Pin plackets with the left side meeting the base markings onto the front pant pieces, stitch the folded edge neatly onto the seam allowances. (3) Sew about 7mm from the stitching line with contrasting thread, by hand.

(2) (3) 3.) Flaps Pin flap pieces with interfacing to the flap pieces without interfacing, right sides facing. Stitch, leaving the base edge open. Trim seam allowances, cut at the rounded edges, cut deep towards the stitching line at the

edges. (4) Turn flaps. Pin edges, iron and stitch neatly. Sow in buttonhole, but do not cut yet. Pin flaps in between the vertical lines of the upper edge of the front pant pieces, flaps pointing up. Stitch (5). Cut seam allowances of the base seam to 5 mm width. Iron flaps down, stitch neatly along the seam base line. Pin the third flap between the vertical lines on the seam allowance of the right back pant piece.

(4) (5) 4.) Side Seams Place front pant pieces right sides facing onto the back pant pieces, pin side seams. Stitch. (6) Secure seam beginning and end. Fold apart and iron seam allowances, de-baste. Fold over the slit allowances and iron to the inside.

(6) 5.) Inner Leg Seams Fold the pant pieces lengthwise, right side of fabric inside. Pin inner pant legs. Stitch. (7) Fold apart and iron seam allowances. Turn pant legs, right side outside.

(7)

6.) Loops Fold fabric strips in half lengthwise, right side inside. Stitch 2.5 cm from the wrap line. To turn, cut the thread not too short on one end. Thread the thread into a darning needle and tie tightly. Pull needle with the eye facing forward through the fabric tunnel (see drawings 25 and 26). Iron strip, stitch neatly and cut into 4 loops of equal length. Place one loop each above the darts in the back and the middle of the front flap, the fourth loop should be pinned to the left front pant piece at the same distance from the front middle.

7.) Crease, Back Pant Piece Place pant pieces onto the ironing boards so that the inner leg seam meets the side seam, and the front crease lies evenly. Iron crease into the back pant piece. 8.) Middle Seam, Front De-baste the seam allowances of the front borders, the front middle seam and continuously of the back middle seam. Turn one pant leg, wrong side outside. Push pant legs into each other, right sides of fabric and inner pant leg seams meet. Pin the front middle seam from the slit marking until the inner pant seam. Stitch. Secure seam beginning and end (8). Pull pant legs apart.

(8) 9.) Slit for Zip Ladies’ pants close from right to left. Pin over the border at the right front pant edge to the inside at the marked front middle. At the left slit edge, pin the border to the inside, 5 mm next to the front middle, to prevent the zip from showing. Make sure to cut the seam allowance at the end of the slit (arrow) until you are about 5 mm from the seam. Iron edges. (9)

(9)

Pin the left slit edge close to the teeth of the zip onto the zip band and stitch tightly with the one-sided zipper foot. (10)

(10) Pin slit middle on middle. (11)

(11) Pin the border of the right pant piece to the second zip band, not taking in the pants. Stitch zipper to the border. (12) Coming from the right pant side to the right closure line at the marked stitching line from above, stitch until you reach the beginning of the rounded edge, stitching the border. (13)

(12) (13) Fold the underlap (a) lengthwise, right side inside. Stitch bottom edges onto each other. (14) Trim seam allowances. Turn underlap. Pin and iron edges. Hold together and de-baste the open long edges. Pin the underlap from the inside to the seam allowance of the left slit edge, so that the de-basted line lies on the zipper band and the wrap line lies 3 cm from the front middle. (15)

(14) (15) Stitch the border of the left slit edge close to the stitching line of the underlap. (16) Close zip. Pin the slit closed again, middle on middle, and stitch the remaining zip stitching line, taking in the underlap. Pull thread inside and tie ends.

(16) 10.) Stitching the Waistband Place the front waistband pieces with interfacing onto the back waistband pieces with interfacing, stitch side seams. Fold apart and iron seam allowances. Place waistband pieces onto the corresponding pant pieces, right sides facing, pin the left front waistband end to the underlap.Stitch (17). Iron the seam allowances into the waistband pieces.

(17) 11.) Double Waistband, Middle Seam of the Back Stitch the side seams of the waistband pieces that are not reinforced. Fold apart and iron seam allowance. Place the waistband pieces that are not reinforced onto the waistband pieces that are reinforced right sides inside. Pin upped and front edges onto another. Stitch, along the right waistband end of the front middle piece. (18) Trim seam allowances, cut in at the rounded edges, cut diagonally at the edges. Place the waistband pieces that are not reinforced on top again at the middle back, fold apart the seam allowances and iron them. Push the pant legs into each other again, right sides of fabric facing. Pin the middle seam in the back; pin the back waistband lines onto each other continuously, seams and seam lines meet. Stitch. (19) Secure the seam endings.

(18) (19) Tip: Because the middle seam will have to hold up to a lot of wear, stitch the seam twice or stitch it using a stretch or triple stitch (See the instructions that came with your sewing machine). Fold apart and Iron the seam allowances from the top to the crotch. Turn the waistband that is not reinforced inside. Pin edges. Pin the inner waistband folded onto the base seam, stitch by hand. Coming from the right side of the pant, stitch around the waist neatly. (20) Sow the buttonhole into the edge of the right front waistband.

(20) 12.) Attaching loops to the waistband Stitch the waistband, allowing 7mm (1/4 inch).Place the loops to the top and stitch them to the upper edge of the waistband, folded. Sow the knee cuff as in B, text 14, stitching in addition, allowing 7 mm (1/4 inch) and folding to top. 13.) Buttons Sew buttons onto the left front waistband and the back knee cuff edges, according to the buttonholes. Sow one button onto each one of the lower buttonhole ends of the flaps, taking in the pant pieces. 14.) Seam Trim seam allowances, pin to the middle, iron and sew loosely by hand. Iron the crease once more at the lower pant edges.

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3331 1/2

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español

50 1/2

for trousers and skirts according to hip

1. Height

2. Bust

3. Waist

4. Hip

measurem

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ent,F

or dresses, blouses, coats and jackets

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2. Contorno busto

3. Contorno cintura

4. Contorno cadera

del pantalón

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y chaquetas, se determina de acuerdo con

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árgenes para la holgura necesaria.

faldas, de acuerdo con el contorno de lasel contorno del busto. Los pantalones y las

168 1

français

les pantalons et les jupes dʼaprès votre

1. Stature

2. Tour de poitrine

3. Tour de taille

4. Tour des hanches

tour de hanches!

seront choisis dʼaprès votre tour de poitrineR

obes, corsages, manteaux et vestes

Tous les patrons sont établis avec lʼaisance

nécessaire selon le genre du modèle.

5. Long.du dos

8. Long.côté

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7. Contorno cuello

6. Largo manga

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8. Side leg length

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5. Back length

Talla

Size

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9. Front w

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14 3/414 1/2

14 1/413 1/2

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12 1/4

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10 1/4

17 1/4inches

16 1/216 1/4

16 1/216

66 1/466 1/4

66 1/466 1/4

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66 1/4

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22 1/419

19 1/4

45 1/2

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18 1/417

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17 1/4

66 1/4

40 1/440 3/4

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42 1/242 1/4

41 3/441 3/4

42 1/241 3/4

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14 1/213

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15 3/418 1/4

17 3/417 1/4

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66 1/4

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