Ethiopia

Bale Mountains National Park and Rift Valley Lakes

Four-day Birding Trip: 28 April – 1 May 2017

My star bird for the trip, the unique Ethiopian Blue-winged Goose – a common highland species

Synopsis

The May Day long weekend presented an opportunity to escape the torrid heat of Djibouti (my

current work duty station) and embark on my first foray into birding in Ethiopia. My targets were the

unique highland endemics. After researching the options for an independent tour on-line, I settled

on a local guiding service recommended by Birdingpal.com. The tour is run by Mr. Meseret Mekuria: mesbuki@yahoo.com, mesiguide@yahoo.com, mesiguide@gmail.com. I can highly recommend Meseret

for his excellent field skills and good company.

After an on-line consultation, we settled on the following four-day itinerary:

Day 1. Drive to Bale Mountains National park via rift valley, with birding grounds including Bushoftu Crater lakes, Koka dam, Ziway and in the afternoon, Dinsho/Adelay grassland areas, also with roadside stops for any opportunity. Blue-winged Goose, Rouget's Rail, Abyssinian Longlaw are among expected endemic birds. Overnight Goba hotel. Day 2. Ahead to Sanatti plateau, high in the Bale Mountains park peaks (4377 ms.a.s.l) to spot the rare endemic Ethiopian Wolf. Abyssinian Catbird, White-backed Black Tit, Ethiopian Orioles, Abyssinian Ground Thrush, Abyssinian Woodpecker, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Chestnut-napped Francolin and many more. Overnight back to Goba hotel.

Day 3. Drive to Lake Hawasa, in the rift valley, and on arrival search the United Africa hotel grounds for birds including African Pygmy Goose, African Black Crake, African White-backed Duck, Spotted Creeper and many more. Overnight, United Africa hotel. Day 4. Dawn birding along the lake Awassa and Fish Market areas and after late breakfast drive to the Lake Langano habitat, with acacia woodland and thickets. In the afternoon drive back to Addis Ababa, end.

The itinerary worked like a charm and provided a good range of varied habitat from the alpine

conditions along the highest roadway in Africa (Sanatti Plateau), to ancient highland Juniper Forests,

and the Lakes and savanna of the central Rift Valley. Having already birded extensively in West

Africa and twice previously in Kenya, many of the birds, especially in the Rift Valley bio-nome were

familiar, but the Ethiopian Highlands opened up a whole new raft of species to me. In all, 212 species

were seen with 65 being personal lifers.

The species accounts are listed in much the same the chronological order in which they were found

at each site. My Fieldguide was: Redman, Stevenson and Fanshawe: Birds of the Horn of Africa,

Princeton, 2nd Edition 2011.

Thursday, 27 April: Arrive pm at Addis Ababa from Djibouti. Overnight at the basic, but comfortable,

Adot Tina Hotel - close to the airport.

Friday, 28 April: Meseret was right on time for a dawn start at 06:00am. We immediately drove in

his well-equipped mini-van south of the capital to Debre Zeit, (ex. Bishoftu). Our first birding foray

was into farmland bordering a large dried out lake:

1. Yellow-billed Kite, Milvus (migrans) aegyptius

2. Dusky Turtle Dove, Streptopelia lugens

3. Sacred Ibis, Threskiornis aethiopicus

4. Cattle Egret, Bubulcus ibis

5. Common Fiscal, Lanius collaris

6. Speckled Pigeon, Columba guinea

7. Feral Pigeon, Columba livia domestica

8. Swainson’s Sparrow, Passer swainsonii – (Near Endemic Horn of Africa) – commonly

encountered throughout and found from 0-3000m (adult and juvenile illustrated):

9. Pied Crow, Corvus albus – common, but mostly only around human settlements

10. Red-eyed Dove, Streptopelia semitorquata

11. Laughing Dove, Streptopelia senegalensis

12. Greater Blue-eared Starling, Lamprotornis chalybaeus – this subtly beautiful bird was found

every day in good numbers and in a wide variety of habitats - up to 2400m

13. Speckled Mousebird, Colius striatus

14. Chestnut Sparrow, Passer eminibey – a small group was feeding on the ground near

agricultural fields; only one sighting on the trip

15. Red-billed Quelea, Quelea quelea

16. Red-cheeked Cordon Bleu, Uraeginthus bengalus

17. Blue-breasted Bee-eater, Merops (variegatus) lafresnayii – (Near-Endemic) range 500 -

2500m - commonly encountered in small groups

18. White-winged Cliff Chat, Thamnolaea semirufa – (Endemic ET/ER) – one seen briefly sitting

on a rock by the roadside, but it would not stick around for its photo shoot

19. Wattled Ibis, Bostrychia carunculata – (Endemic ET/ER) – a very common resident;

encountered throughout the central highlands and rift valley from 1500 – 4100m

20. Black-winged Lovebird, Agapornis taranta – (Endemic ET/ER) – another very common

species found in a wide variety of habitats of the central highlands up to 2750m

21. Baglafecht Weaver, Ploceus baglafecht – highly variable with three races occurring in the

region. The common weaver in the highlands from 1100-3000m

22. Abyssinian White-eye, Zosterops abyssinicus – commonly found at lower elevations

23. African Citril, Serinus citrinelloides – several seen in small groups in grassy borders

24. Grey-backed Camaroptera, Camaroptera brachyura abessinica – commonly encountered in

undergrowth

25. Hammerkop, Scopus umbretta

26. Yellow Wagtail, Motacilla flava

27. Black Kite, Milvus migrans – less common than yellow-billed

28. Hadada Ibis, Bostrychia hagedash

29. Marabou Stork, Leptopilos crumenifer – large numbers of colonial nesters in towns

30. Gull-billed Tern, Gelochelidon nilotica

31. White-winged Tern, Childonias leucopterus

32. Scarlet-chested Sunbird, Chalcomitra senegalensis

33. Pin-tailed Wydah, Vidua macroura

34. Red-billed Firefinch, Lagonosticta senegala

35. Streaky Seedeater, Serinus striolatus

36. Spur-winged Lapwing, Vanellus spinosus – commonly found along creek beds (dry and wet)

37. African Grey Flycatcher, Bradornis microrhynchus pumilus – we saw mostly individuals

hawking insects from low perches – most commonly encountered flycatcher

38. African Paradise-Flycatcher, Terpsiphone viridis ferreti

39. African Thrush, Turdus pelios - common and replaced by Mountain Thrush at higher elevation

40. Black-billed Barbet, Lybius guifsobalito – a single bird at mid-level in dry forest country

41. Variable Sunbird, Cinnyris venustus

42. Beautiful Sunbird, Cinnyris pulchellus

43. Eurasian Hoopoe, Upupa epops

44. Rüppel’s Weaver, Ploceus galbula

We drove to the Koka Dam and birded the lakeshore:

45. Long-tailed Cormorant, Phalacrocorax africanus

46. Great Cormorant, Phalacrocorax carbo

47. Pied Kingfisher, Ceryle rudis

48. Egyptian Goose, Alopochen aegyptiaca

49. Intermediate Egret, Egretta intermedia

50. Bronze Mannikin, Spermestes cucullata

51. Spectacled Weaver, Ploceus ocularis

52. Northern Masked Weaver, Ploceus taeniopterus

53. Hooded Vulture, Necrosyrtes monachus

54. Garden Warbler, Sylvia borin

55. Purple Heron, Ardea purpurea

56. Squacco Heron, Ardeola ralloides

57. Grey Heron, Ardea cinerea

58. Malachite Kingfisher, Alcedo cristata

59. Little Grebe, Tachybaptus ruficollis

60. Common (Dark-capped) Bulbul, Pycnonotus tricolor spurius – (Endemic) the race of south

central Ethiopia with a prominent yellow vent

61. Willow Warbler, Phylloscopus trochilus

62. African Fish Eagle, Haliaeetus vocifer – several birds patrolling the lake and perched on

overhanging trees

63. African Cuckoo-Hawk, Aviceda cuculoides – one immature bird was perched high in a tree;

and took some identification until it flew out above us; prominent white body and pied

streaked underwing.

64. Common Chiffchaff, Phylloscopus collybita

65. Black Saw-wing, Psalidoprocne pristoptera

66. Ethiopian Boubou – Laniarius aethiopicus – (Near endemic) – 0-3000m; a relatively secretive

species that is often heard before it is seen; we eventually saw two in thick bush country

67. Banded Barbet, Lybius undatus – (Endemic) – FC wooded habitats; 450 – 2750m – we only

saw one bird the whole trip

68. Nubian Woodpecker, Campethera nubica – only one seen

69. Montane White-eye, Zosterops poliogastrus – found in the higher elevations of C highlands

70. African Firefinch, Lagonosticta rubricata – one pair of the dark-billed species seen in close

company of Red-billed Firefinch

71. Tawny-flanked Prinia, Prinia subflava – common throughout

72. Ruppell’s Robin-Chat, Cossypha semirufa – C highland forest bird; these became more

common the higher we climbed into the mountains; one of my favourite birds of the trip for

its social antics and striking colours

We then proceeded to drive south to the Bale Mountains National Park, periodically stopping along

the way to investigate roadside sightings:

73. European Bee-eater, Merops apiaster – several flocks on migration

74. Red-billed Oxpecker, Buphagus erythrorhunchus – associated with livestock

75. Augur Buzzard, Buteo augur – this was the most common raptor of the trip; commonly

encountered even at the highest elevations; we saw mostly the pale bird + one dark morph:

76. Tawny Eagle, Aquila rapax – two seen

77. Barn Swallow, Hirundo rustica – common

78. Purple Roller, Coracias naevius – one seen perched on a telephone line near a town

79. Common Kestrel, Falco tinnunculus – very common around ploughed fields

80. Cape Crow, Corvus capensis – common at higher elevations, replacing other corvid species

81. Black-winged Kite, Elanus caeruleus – one seen in flight

82. Dark Chanting Goshawk, Melierax metabates – one perched in a tree

83. Wattled Starling, Creatophora cinerea – seen around cattle and in towns; to 2400m

84. Mocking Cliff Chat, Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris – three seen during the trip

85. Northern White-crowned Shrike, Eurocephalus rueppelli – pairs seen on two occasions

86. White-browed Sparrow-Weaver, Plocepasser mahali – very common

87. Somali Crow, Corvus edithae – also seen were hybrid Pied Crow x Somali Crow

Bale Mountains National Park (Gaysay Grasslands)

We entered the Bale NP in the late afternoon and initially birded the grasslands of the high plateau:

88. White-collared Pigeon, Columba albitorques – (Endemic ET/ER) – 1800 – 4200m; very

common and found in very large flocks at higher elevations

89. Tacazze Sunbird, Nectarinia tacazze – the common sunbird of highland forest; 1800 – 3900m

90. Moorland (Alpine) Chat, Cercomela sordida – the most common highland bird; seen on

almost every rock in alpine grasslands & moorlands

91. African (Ethiopian) Stonechat, Saxicola (torquatus) albofasciatus - a very distinct stonechat

of W & C Ethiopia - considered by some researchers to be a possible separate species; the

male is a completely pied bird; the 1st year seen had a very prominent russet brown chest

92. Red-breasted Wheatear, Oenanthe bottae – C grassland and moorlands, 950 – 3200m

93. Groundscraper Thrush, Psophocichla litsitsirupa – highland grasslands of ET/ER

94. Chestnut-naped Francolin, Pternistis castaneicollis – (Endemic ET/SO) highlands, moorland

and tree-line; 1750 – 3150

95. Brown-rumped Seedeater, Serinus tristriatus – (Endemic) common in scrub

96. Yellow Bishop, Euplectes capensis – 1800 – 3300m highlands

97. Wood Sandpiper, Tringa glareola – the only tringa seen in the mountains

98. Red-knobbed Coot, Fulica cristata – non-breeding

99. Blue-winged Goose, Cyanochen cyanoptera – (Endemic - highlands of Ethiopia) – common

in Alpine lake habitat

100. Rouget’s Rail, Rougetius rougetii – (Endemic ET/ER) grasslands/moorlands; v.

common and confiding

101. Ethiopian Cisticola, Cisticola (galactotes) lugubris – (Endemic ET/ER) – common

102. Slender-billed Starling, Onychognathus tenuirostris – LC alpine moorlands

103. Three-banded Plover, Charadrius tricollaris – a really beautiful alpine wader

104. Ethiopian (Black-headed) Siskin, Serinus nigriceps – (Endemic ET) – VC highlands

105. Thekla Lark, Galerida theklae – common; but the target Erlanger’s Lark eluded us

106. Yellow-billed Duck, Anas undulata rüppelli – common; even on small highland ponds

With the light fading and a fog rolling in, we drove to the comfortable Goba Hotel for the night.

Saturday, 29 April

Panorama of high country along the Sanatti Plateua at 4000m

We got an early start by birding the gardens of the Goba Hotel:

107. Mountain Thrush, Turdus (olivaceous) abyssinicus – the common Turdus of the

highlands

108. Brown Parisoma, Parisoma lugens – two birds seen in moorlands 3350-3700m

109. Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler, Bradypterus cinnamomeus – one bird well seen calling

loudly from a low perch inside undergrowth

110. Thick-billed Raven, Corvus crassirostris – (Endemic ET/ER) C 1200 – 4200m – fleeting

glimpses of one bird in flight; we later saw several gliding in a group of vultures

111. Red-chested Swallow, Hirundo lucida – one perched on a wire; 1200-3300m

Checkpoint onto the Sanatti Plateau and the highest road in Africa

Ethiopian Wolf, Canis simensis, is endemic to the highlands; my guide, Meseret said we were fortunate to have encountered

at least six wolves during the course of the day

After 30 minutes driving onto the plateau, we stopped to bird an area of Juniper forest:

112. Abyssinian Catbird, Parophasma galinieri – (Endemic) 1800 - 3600m

113. Brown Woodland Warbler, Phyllocopus umbrovierns – a few seen in tree canopy

114. Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Melaeornis choclatinus – (Endemic ET/ER) - common

115. Red-winged Starling, Onychognathus morio – common around rocky cliffs

116. Spot-breasted Lapwing, Vanellus melanocephalus – (Endemic) C highland grassland

117. Abyssinian Longclaw, Macronyx flavicolis – (Endemic)– C moorlands

118. Moorland Francolin, Scleroptila psilolaemus – C 2400 - 4000m – we flushed several

birds at very close range on two occasions after hearing their chatter. Much less confiding

than the lower elevation Chestnut-naped Francolin

119. Malachite Sunbird, Nectarinia famosa – only one bird seen; feeding on lobelia flower

120. Wattled Crane, Bugeranus carunculatus – Meseret was delighted to locate a distant

pair preening near swampy area on a treeless hillside at circa 4000m; listed as VULNERABLE

121. Red-billed Chough, Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax baileyi – in sub-sahelian Africa, the

resident race baileyi is only found in the Bale and Simien Mountains of Ethiopia

122. Ruddy Shelduck, Tadorna ferruginea – two on alpine lakes

123. Eastern Imperial Eagle, Aquila heliaca – one in flight

124. Fan-tailed Raven, Corvus rhipidurus – common in small groups

125. Verreaux’s Eagle, Aquila verreauxii – UC to 4200m – one juvenile bird was seen

flying and then landed on a distant perch across the valley:

126. Mountain Buzzard, Buteo oreophilus – one gave us brilliant eye-level views as it

cruised the updraft along a glacial valley

127. Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk, Accipiter rufiventris – uncommon; one flew in and

perched close; possibly attracted to Meseret’s whistling for Turaco (?)

128. African Hill Babbler, Pseudoalcippe abyssinica – brief glimpses of one bird attracted

to ‘phishing’

129. White-cheeked Turaco, Tauraco leucotis – (Near Endemic) 900-3600m; several birds

were found in a small group; (sadly, this is the point where my camera battery died!)

130. African Olive Pigeon, Columba arquatrix – one only

131. Abyssinian Ground Thrush, Zoothera piaggiae – we finally got views of this shy

skulker calling from inside the cover of a large juniper tree

132. African Harrier-Hawk, Polyboroides typus – one hunting low in the forest

133. Mountain Wagtail, Motacilla clara – a pair by a fast-flowing mountain stream

With rain starting to fall, we beat a retreat to the Goba Hotel for a second night. It had been a great

day’s birding. Still missing from our wish list were several endemics however which we were not to

find in the short time available to us in the highlands (but is a great excuse from another trip!):

Yellow-fronted Parrot, Poicephalus flavifrons – (Endemic) - 1150 - 3200m

Abyssinian (Golden-mantled) Woodpecker, Dendropicos abyssinicus - (Endemic ET/ER)

White-backed Black Tit, Parus leuconotus – (Endemic ET/ER) - 1800 – 3400m

Abyssinian Oriole, Oriolus monacha – (Endemic ET/ER) - 600-3000m

Erlanger’s Lark, Calandrella erlangeri – (Endemic CEt) – 1900- 3600m

Sunday, 30 April

After a hearty buffet breakfast at the Goba Hotel, we started the slow drive from the high plateau

down to the Rift Valley and our destination for our third night: Lake Hawasa. We birded a range of

geographically distinct areas from high grasslands to sandy semi-desert dotted with acacia trees:

134. Black-headed Heron, Ardea melanocephala

135. Steppe Eagle, Aquila nipalensis

136. Village Weaver, Ploceus cucullatus

137. White-backed Vulture, Gyps africanus

138. Grey-backed Fiscal, Lanius excubitorius – a small flock lined up on electricity wires

139. Superb Starling, Lamprotornis superbus

140. Brown-throated Martin, Riparia paludicola – seen often over rivers

On arrival at Hawasa, Meseret booked me into the very comfortable United Africa Hotel. No fewer

than four post-Lenten weddings were in full swing! Nonetheless, the gardens were full of birdlife

and we spent the afternoon birding the grounds and the lake area:

141. Woodland Kingfisher, Halcyon senegalensis

142. Pale Flycatcher, Bradornis pallidus parvus

143. Blue-spotted Wood-Dove, Turtur afer

144. Red-throated Wryneck, Jynx ruficollis – a confiding pair feeding in the open grass

145. Fork-tailed Drongo, Dicrurus adsimilis

146. Red-backed Shrike, Lanius collurio

147. Ring-necked Dove, Streptopelia capicola

148. Yellow (Black-headed) Wagtail, Motacilla (flava) feldegg – completely black top to

head; in one location close to Yellow Wagtail flava allowing for close comparison

149. Buff-bellied Warbler, Phyllolais pulchella – very small; a pair in tree canopy

150. Black-crowned Night Heron, Nycticorax nycticorax

151. Spotted Flycatcher, Muscicapa striata

152. African Dusky Flycatcher, Muscicapa adusta – common and frequently encountered

in a range of habitats from 1350 – 3000m

153. White-rumped Babbler – Turdoides leucopygia – (Near Endemic), groups of 6-10

154. African Pygmy-Goose, Nettapus auritus – great to find this species after much

searching in vain throughout West Africa (male – left & females - right and bottom):

155. White-backed Duck, Thalassornis leuconotus – another elusive species that is said to

be reliable at Lake Hawasa:

156. Great Egret, Ardea alba

157. White-winged Tern, Childonias leucopterus

158. Whiskered Tern, Childonias hybrida

159. Black Crake, Amaurornis flavirostra – very confiding and unconcerned by humans

160. Purple Heron, Ardea purpurea

161. Eurasian Reed Warbler, Acrocephalus scirpaceus

162. Blue-headed Coucal, Centropus monachus – 4 of these birds on exposed perches

163. Yellow-bellied Waxbill, Coccopygia quartinia – also known as East African Swee.

164. Glossy Ibis, Plegadis falcinellus

165. Common Bulbul, Pycnonotus barbatus schoanus – the plainer bulbul with dark brown

breast and white undertail-coverts

166. Sedge Warbler, Acrocephalus schoenobaenus

167. Little Weaver, Ploceus luteolus

168. Great Reed Warbler, Acrocephalus arundinaceus

169. European Roller, Coracias garrulus

170. Eastern Grey Woodpecker, Dendropicos spodocephalus – FC wooded habitats;

However, despite much searching, we were unable to locate the Spotted Creeper, Salpornis

spilonotus, that are reputed to frequent the garden.

Monday, 1 May

On my last day, we got a dawn start to catch-up with some species known to inhabit the gardens of

Hawasa Town:

171. Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Bycanistes brevis

172. Bruce’s Green Pigeon, Treron waalia – a small flock feeding on ficus sp.

We travelled along the main highway to our next stop, Lake Langano, stopping along the highway

to see some interesting new birds:

173. White-headed Buffalo Weaver, Dinemellia dinemelli

174. Northern Red-billed Hornbill, Tockus erythrorhynchus

175. White-bellied Go-away-bird, Corythaixoides leucogaster – two birds in total

At Lake Langano, we entered a private lakeside resort for breakfast and then birded the extensive

gardens:

176. Hemprich’s Hornbill, Tockus hemprichii – common and vocal

177. Helemeted Guineafowl, Numida meleagris

178. Abdim’s Stork, Ciconia abdimii

179. Lesser Masked Weaver, Ploceus intermedius

180. Black-crowned Tchagra, Tchagra senegalus

181. Little Rock Thrush, Monticola rufocinereus –

182. Rock Martin, Ptyonoprogne fuligula

183. Northern Black Flycatcher, Melaenornis edoloides – adult and juvenile (right):

184. Horus Swift, Apus horus – C 900 – 1900m – several of this stocky bird by the lakeside

185. Abyssinian Wheatear, Oenanthe lugubris – (Endemic) – one male/female pair spied

on top of a rocky outcrop over the escarpment:

186. Boran Cisticola, Cisticola bodessa – one very vocal bird:

187. Von der Decken’s Hornbill, Tockus deckeni – female (left) and male (right):

188. White-rumped Swift, Apus caffer

189. Little Swift, Apus affinis

190. Namaqua Dove, Oena capensis

We departed Langano for our last Rift Valley stop, Lake Awasa. On the way, we saw:

191. Abyssinian Ground-hornbill, Bucorvus abyssinicus – male bringing nesting material

to his mate. I was greatly relieved to see this emblematic bird – indeed, it would have been

difficult to leave Ethiopia without seeing at least one!

Lake Ziwai

Lake Ziwai is well-known among birders as a place where fishermen unload their catch; and we were

impressed by the last number of species that inhabited the off-shore waters:

192. Spur-winged Goose, Plectropterus gambensis

193. Common Moorhen, Gallinula chloropus

194. Black-winged Stilt, Himantopus himantopus

195. Greater Flamingo, Ploenicopterus roseus – a large number of birds feeding, but at

some distance

196. African Spoonbill, Platalea alba

197. African Darter, Anhinga rufa -

198. Little Stint, Calidris minuta -

199. Temminck’s Stint, Calidris temminckii -

200. Common Sandpiper, Actitis hypoleucos -

201. Diderick Cuckoo, Chrysoccyx caprius – one heard calling form the neighbouring forest

202. Black Heron, Egretta ardesiaca – at least half dozen; some in distinctive fishing pose:

203. Great White Pelican, Pelecanus onocrotalus – common on the lake:

204. Plain Martin, Riperia riparia shoensis

205. White-winged Widowbird, Euplectes albonotatus – very common in small flocks

206. Yellow-billed Stork, Mycteria ibis – two juvenile birds resting on the lake shore:

With the afternoon wearing on, and me with a plane to catch back to Djibouti, we returned to Addis

Ababa, stopping only briefly at several roadside sites to pick up a few new species:

207. Long-crested Eagle, Lophaetus occipitalis

208. Chestnut Weaver, Ploceus rubiginosus – at Meki Town for a cold beer break

209. Saddle-billed Stork, Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis – a pair in a rice field

210. Goliath Heron, Ardea goliath – with the above species

211. Common Crane, Grus grus – we came across a large flock of birds on the outskirts of

Addis – probably preparing for their migration to Europe.

212. Rüppell’s Long-tailed Starling, Lamprotornis purpuroptera

Meseret deposited me at the airport right on time at 17:00. It had been a wonderful trip with

convivial company, comfortable lodgings and great birds. Plans are already afoot for another trip to

conquer the Somali region specialties…

My guide, Meseret and Ethiopian endemic, Giant Lobelia, on the Sanetti Plateau (4000+m)

David Karr

Djibouti, 25 May 2017

davidwkarr@gmail.com