functional garment design ispo 2011 a
DESCRIPTION
Performance garment / Sportswear design and evaluation. Presented by Dr. Hu Junyan, Research Fellow of Institute of Textile and Clothing, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Hong Kong on ispo china 2011 China Sports Fashion Trend Forum.TRANSCRIPT
2011/1/24
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Performance garment / Sportswear design and evaluation
功能性运动服装的设计与性能检测
Dr. Junyan Dr. Junyan Hu Hu Senior research fellowSenior research fellow胡军岩胡军岩 高级研究员高级研究员
Tel: 852 27664206, Fax: 852 27731432Email: [email protected]
ITC, The ITC, The HKPolyUHKPolyU香港理工大学纺织制衣系香港理工大学纺织制衣系
Content内容
• Lab Introduction 实验室介绍
• Performance Garment design功能服装的设计
• THERMAL SIMULATION计算机模拟热湿傳遞功能
• Fabric Functional Properties Characterization织物功能面料特性检测
• Physiological influence of Functional Material功能材料的生理影響
• Summary 结语
1. Bio‐functional Textile Research lab生物功能纺织品研究室
ITF Research Projects 创新基金资助项目
高性能運動服與裝置
High‐Performance Sportswear and Devices (ITP/014/08TP)
Heat production within active muscle and its transfer to skin and sportswear运动肌产热及其在皮肤和运动服装间的传递
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Physiological Wear Trials生理测试
Competition wear HPRW
Physiological study of cycling wear自行車服的生理效應研究
CommercialHPCW
Cooperate with Hong Kong elite athletes
與香港精英運動員們的合作
日期: 09.08.2008 運動: 划艇
活動: 2008 北京奧運會
Photo took on 2nd Dec, 2009 at train center (Rowing)
http://www.hkolympic.org/imagecatalogue/c_popup_photo_gallery/3635
EAG 2009 Hong KongSource: http://2009eagarchive.lcsd.gov.hk/tc/news/gallery.php?catid=160
Hong Kong elite athletes in HPSWOlympic Game 2008
http://www.daylife.com/photo/08vx9cDf8OffW
2. Performance Garment design功能服装的设计
‐Requirements 消費者需求
• A safe product
• An environmentally friendly product
• A sustainable product
Collaboration of Technology and Fashion
科技與時尚的結合
• A sustainable product
•A comfort product
Clothing system 服裝系統 Radiation
Convection
Cond
uctio
n
Radiation
Convection
Cond
uctio
n
Human BodyPhysiological
Clothing System
EnvironmentalPst
Thermal & Moisture exchange
Ph i l
Human BodyPhysiological
Clothing System
EnvironmentalPst
Thermal & Moisture exchange
Ph i l
Brain
Individual Psychological Perception
Overall Comfort
Physiological Reactions:
•Shivering•Voluntary exercise•Sweating•… Body
Environmental Condition
Physical tim
uli
Physical stimuli
Physiological process
Decoding stimuli
Neuropsychological Process
Physical process
Psychological Process
Brain
Individual Psychological Perception
Overall Comfort
Physiological Reactions:
•Shivering•Voluntary exercise•Sweating•… Body
Environmental Condition
Physical tim
uli
Physical stimuli
Physiological process
Decoding stimuli
Neuropsychological Process
Physical process
Psychological Process
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Thermoregulatory control system熱平衡調節系統
The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation, George Havenith, Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of Human Sciences, Loughborough University, LE11 3TU
In the aspect of thermal comfort:著裝過程中的熱舒適-Heat losses In a neutral environment
During exercise, these percentages could be reversed.
Source: The skin’s role in human thermoregulation and comfort P. 563
In the aspect of fitness:著裝過程中的體形變化
Key stretch points on the body
Source: Textiles in Sports, P205
Psychological sensory comfort‐ Clothing comfort dimensions
著裝舒適性的生理基礎
TactileTactilePricklePrickleItchItchRoughRoughScratchScratch
Clammy
Clammy
ColdCold
TactileTactilePricklePrickleItchItchRoughRoughScratchScratch
Clammy
Clammy
ColdCold
ThermalThermal--wetwet
PressurePressure
ClaCl
DampDamp
HotHot
ColCol
StickySticky
StiffStiffSoftSoftSnugSnug
SmoothSmoothLooseLoose
ThermalThermal--wetwet
PressurePressure
ClaCl
DampDamp
HotHot
ColCol
StickySticky
StiffStiffSoftSoftSnugSnug
SmoothSmoothLooseLoose
Thermal-wet comfort熱濕舒適性
• Sensations involving temperature and moisturesultry damp clingy clammy hot cold sticky
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sticky...
• Thermal receptors
• Transport properties of clothing heat transfermoisture transferair permeability…
Tactile comfort觸覺舒適性
• Direct fabric‐skin mechanical interactions prickly scratchy itchy
rough sticky…
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• Pain receptors in skin
• Fabric surface/mechanical properties
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Pressure comfort壓力舒適性
• The space allowance between the body and the garment
• Fabric bulk mechanical behaviours and overall fitness of
19
garment
• The pressure receptors in skin
• A number of synthetic sensationsloose heavy lightweightsoft stiff snug…
International Standards for thermal comfort clothing
有關熱舒適的一些國際標準
• ISO 7243, Hot environments — Estimation of the heat stress on working man, based on the WBGT‐index (wet bulb globe temperature)
• ISO 7726, Thermal environments — Instruments and methods for measuring physical quantities
• ISO 7730, Moderate thermal environments —Determination of the PMV and PPD indices and specification of the conditions for thermal comfort
• ISO 8996, Ergonomics — Determination of metabolic heat production
• ISO 7933, Hot environments — Analytical determination and interpretation of thermal stress using calculation of required sweat raterequired sweat rate
• ISO 9886, Evaluation of thermal strain by physiological measurements
• ISO 9920, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Estimation of the thermal insulation and evaporative resistance of a clothing ensemble
• ISO 10551, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Assessment of the influence of the thermal environment using subjective judgment scales
• ISO/TR 11079, Evaluation of cold environments — Determination of required clothing insulation (IREQ)
• ISO 13732 (all parts), Ergonomics of the thermal environment —Methods for the assessment of human responses to contact with surfaces
• ISO 12894, Ergonomics of the thermal environments —Medical supervision of individuals exposed to extreme hot or cold environments
• ISO 13731, Ergonomics of the thermal environment — Vocabulary and symbols
Cold environments and people with special requirements
• Working in cold environments– be exposed to severe conditions
• in the home, • during outdoor activities, • sporting activities or • during transportation.
• Wind chill is commonly encountered in cold climates;y• Low temperatures
• cold stress– climatic conditions under which the body heat exchange is just equal to or too large for
heat balance at the expense of significant and sometimes uncompensable physiological strain (heat debt)
ISO 11079:2007(E)
• 1 met is 58.15 W/m2.
• A sleeping person has a rate of 0.7 met, and reclining awake is 0.8 met.
• Office work is 1.2 met: a mostly seated activity but one that involves occasional moving about.
• Walking slowly (0.9 m/s, or 2 mph) is 2 met, moderate walking (1.2 m/s or 2.7 mph) is 2.6 met, and fast walking (1.8 m/s or 4 mph) is 3.8 met (ASHRAE Handbook of Fundamentals, 2005).
• Swimming ranges from 4 to 8 met, and jogging 8 to 12 met (Brooks et al., 1996).
• The work efficiency of muscles is about 15%,
Metabolic rates of different activities不同運動條件下的新陳代謝率
The work efficiency of muscles is about 15%, with 85% of total energy released as heat
Source: ISO 8996
Requirements for protection服裝保暖要求
• A method (and international standard) has been proposed that determines the required clothing insulation (IREQ) as a function of ambient climate and activity (ISO/DIS‐11079, 2004).
Exposure time and at different combinations of ambient temperature
Ref: ISO 11079, Metabolic rate 110WM-2
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Cooling power of wind風速的影響
Source: ISO 11079
Problems of in winter clothing冬季服裝系統常見問題
• Insufficient thermal insulation in winter:– chilling of the body – Hypothermia
• frostbite, discomfort, impaired judgment, reduced capacity to work and poorer endurance.
• especially in the hands and forearms, causes deterioration of manual sensitivity and agility.
• harder to memorize and learn new things
• Over protection:– Thick clothing obstruct movement. – Heavy– Sweating, heat stress
• Cold environment come with snow, ice and wind
3.THERMAL SIMULATION计算机模拟热湿傳遞功能
Sweating出汗
•• Insensible evaporative heat lossesInsensible evaporative heat losses– about 100 to 150 ml per day per m2 of skin surface
The maximum sweat rate The maximum sweat rate
•1liter/hour • an unacclimatized person seldom reaches.
•2–3 liter/hour •a well-acclimatized person
•When evaporated, •removes about ten times the basal body heat production.
(Guyton and Hall, 2000).
Thermal physiological requirements熱生理需求
Running
Thermal Function体表温度分布
Moisture Function 体表水份分布
running
Sweat Dissemination汗液发散区域The Interaction of Clothing and Thermoregulation, George Havenith,
Human Thermal Environments Laboratory, Department of Human Sciences, Loughborough University, LE11 3TU
S-Smart软件
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Computer simulations for biomechanical performances計算機仿真生物力學特性
Fabric important properties織物功能特性
• Stretch– to ensurer clothing doesn't restrict body movement and performance.
• Moisture management– to ensure skin stays dry, thus minimizing:– (a) evaporation from the skin which results in rapid heat and energy loss;– (b) friction between clothing and the body and therefore reduced irritation.
• Waterproofness and breathability• Waterproofness and breathability– for protection from the elements while maintaining a comfortable personal
microclimate.
• Temperature control– buffering against temperature swings between periods of activity and rest.
• Light weight– to enhance performance and conserve energy as less weight is carried.
• High strength and durability– to protect the wearer and their clothes.
Pure Cotton Moisture Management Fabric with NanoTechnology
全棉差別導水織物
Normal pure cotton fabric 全棉面料
Moisture management pure cotton fabric全棉差別導水面料
4. Fabric Functional Properties Characterization织物功能面料特性检测
‐4.1 Evaluation of moisture transfer properties
99
88
Standards makingDesign principle
0 20g
36
0.20g
Influenced by 影响因素:•components of the water水的成份
•water content in the fabric面料中的含水量
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Typical moisture transfer behavior防水/拒水织物
Water Proof / Repellent fabric
慢吸慢干织物Slow absorbing, slow spreading and very poor moisture management fabric
快吸慢干织物快吸慢干织物Quick absorption and poor one-way transport Fabric
快吸快干织物Absorbent and quick dry fabric
较好的液态水动态传递性能织物Good absorbent moisture management fabric
很好的液态水动态传递性能织物Excellent absorbent moisture management fabric
典型織物水傳遞特征
61#
典型織物水傳遞特征
17#
典型織物水傳遞特征
58#
4.2 Fabric Tactile Comfort Tester接触感觉测量
ΔT=10 ˚C
41Y Li, JY Hu, Lubos Hes, Textile Fabric Testing, US. 6,601,457 B2
4.3 Characterization of fabricthermal radiation properties
红外輻射特性测量
1 . 21 . 21 . 21 . 21 . 2
42
0
0 .2
0 .4
0 .6
0 .8
1
1 .2
0 1 2 3 4 5 6
Time(min)
IR intensity(v)
t r 1 t r 2 t r 3
0
0 .2
0 .4
0 .6
0 .8
1
1 .2
0 1 2 3 4 5 6
Time(min)
IR intensity(v)
t r 1 t r 2 t r 3
0
0 . 2
0 . 4
0 . 6
0 . 8
1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
T i m e ( m i n )
IR i
ntensity
(v)
t t 1 t t 2 t t 30
0 . 2
0 . 4
0 . 6
0 . 8
1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
T i m e ( m i n )
IR i
ntensity
(v)
t t 1 t t 2 t t 30
0 . 2
0 . 4
0 . 6
0 . 8
1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
T i m e ( m i n )
IR i
ntensity
(v)
t t 1 t t 2 t t 30
0 . 2
0 . 4
0 . 6
0 . 8
1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
T i m e ( m i n )
IR i
ntensity
(v)
t t 1 t t 2 t t 30
0 . 2
0 . 4
0 . 6
0 . 8
1
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 1 0
T i m e ( m i n )
IR i
ntensity
(v)
t t 1 t t 2 t t 3
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4.4 Characterization of fabric thermal and moisture transfer properties
織物的動態熱濕傳遞特性
Fan J and Y S Chen Measurement
43
Fan, J. and Y.S. Chen,. Measurement Science Technology, 2002. 13: p.
1115-1123.
Stan, a thermal manikin at Kansas State University, is used to measure the insulation provided by cold weather clothing.http://www.astm.org/SNEWS/SO_2009/f2360_so09.html
Typical measurement results on the skin surface
M easurem ents on Skin Surface
100
120
140
160
180
200
%),
Hea
tflux
W/m
^2
1120
1130
1140
1150
skin
mod
el (g
)
t1 t2 t3 t4 t5
M easurem ents on Skin Surface
100
120
140
160
180
200
%),
Hea
tflux
W/m
^2
1120
1130
1140
1150
skin
mod
el (g
)
t1 t2 t3 t4 t5
W e igh t
H ea t flu x
M easurem ents on Skin Surface
100
120
140
160
180
200
%),
Hea
tflux
W/m
^2
1120
1130
1140
1150
skin
mod
el (g
)
t1 t2 t3 t4 t5
M easurem ents on Skin Surface
100
120
140
160
180
200
%),
Hea
tflux
W/m
^2
1120
1130
1140
1150
skin
mod
el (g
)
t1 t2 t3 t4 t5
W e igh t
H ea t flu x
44
0
20
40
60
80
100
0 5000 10000 15000 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000
Tim e (s)
Tem
pera
ture
(℃
), RH
(%
1080
1090
1100
1110
R Hs Ts H Fs w eight
Wei
ght c
hang
e of
0
20
40
60
80
100
0 5000 10000 15000 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000
Tim e (s)
Tem
pera
ture
(℃
), RH
(%
1080
1090
1100
1110
R Hs Ts H Fs w eight
Wei
ght c
hang
e of
R H
Te m pera ture
0
20
40
60
80
100
0 5000 10000 15000 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000
Tim e (s)
Tem
pera
ture
(℃
), RH
(%
1080
1090
1100
1110
R Hs Ts H Fs w eight
Wei
ght c
hang
e of
0
20
40
60
80
100
0 5000 10000 15000 200 00 25000 3000 0 3 5000
Tim e (s)
Tem
pera
ture
(℃
), RH
(%
1080
1090
1100
1110
R Hs Ts H Fs w eight
Wei
ght c
hang
e of
R H
Te m pera ture
1. Dynamic contact process; 2. Insensitive perspiration steady state;
3. Dynamic sweating process; 4. Dynamic wetting process;
5. Steady wetted state; 6. Drying process
1hr 3hr 6hr
Typical measurement results on the fabric bottom surface
Mrasurements on Fbaric Bottom Surface
85
95
105
1130
1140
1150
g)
RH
Weight
Mrasurements on Fbaric Bottom Surface
85
95
105
1130
1140
1150
g)
RH
Weight
45
15
25
35
45
55
65
75
0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000
Time (s)
Tem
pera
ture
(℃
), RH
(%)
1080
1090
1100
1110
1120
1130
RHfb1 Tfb1 weight
Wei
ght c
hang
e of
skin
mod
el (g
Temperature
15
25
35
45
55
65
75
0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000
Time (s)
Tem
pera
ture
(℃
), RH
(%)
1080
1090
1100
1110
1120
1130
RHfb1 Tfb1 weight
Wei
ght c
hang
e of
skin
mod
el (g
Temperature
Typical measurement results on the fabric upper surface
Measurements on Fabric Upper Surface
100
120
1130
1140
1150
(g)
Weight
Measurements on Fabric Upper Surface
100
120
1130
1140
1150
(g)
Weight
46
0
20
40
60
80
0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000
Time (s)
Tem
pera
ture
(℃
) RH
(5)
1080
1090
1100
1110
1120
1130
RHfu1 Tfu1 weight
Wei
ght c
hang
e of
ski
n m
odel
(
RH
Temperature
0
20
40
60
80
0 5000 10000 15000 20000 25000 30000 35000
Time (s)
Tem
pera
ture
(℃
) RH
(5)
1080
1090
1100
1110
1120
1130
RHfu1 Tfu1 weight
Wei
ght c
hang
e of
ski
n m
odel
(
RH
Temperature
5. Physiological influence of Functional Material
功能材料的生理影響
Wear Trials穿著試驗
Effect of Phase Change Material of Energy Consumption of Clothing Assembly
Skin
33 ℃Environment
-15 ℃ Layer-3
Layer-4Environment temperature: -15℃
NonwovenPolyester
The Second Layer
WaterproofBreathable
FabricCotton
48
Structure of the clothing assembly Sensor location
Layer-1
Layer-2
Skin temperature33℃ Humidity Sensor
Temperature Sensor
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5.00
10.00
15.00
20.00
25.00
30.00
35.00
Temp
erat
ure(
℃)
the clothing assembly A
the clothing assembly C
Dew point25.5℃
IW_CLW_CWV_C
49
-15.00
-10.00
-5.00
0.00
0.00 5.00 10.00 15.00 20.00 25.00
Thickness(mm)
T
DL2
Di1
DL1
Di2 IW_ALW_AWV_A Frozen point0℃
Comparison of temperature distributions in clothing assemblies A(Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric without heating) and C (Nonwoven fabric + conductive fabric with heating)
Bronze award at IENA 2006
• Bronze award at IENA 2006, ITPC – Intelligent Thermal Protective Clothing System, 2‐5 Nov‐2006, Nuremberg, Germany
Correlations between OMMC and clammy綜合水份管理特性與濕粘感覺間的關係
Correlations between OMMC and dampness綜合水份管理特性與潮濕感覺間的關係
IR images analysis實驗二: 紅外圖像分析
Experimental Protocol
• Environment 环境条件:–Temperature: 33ºC–RH: 40%
–IR camera 红外摄像机: Nikon Laird S‐270–Physical exercise Rate 运动强度 4miles/ hr 英里/小时
• Special designed T shirt (left part is knitted MMF, right part is normal pure cotton knitted fabric with same structure.) 特殊设计的T恤 (左半部为针织液态水管理面料,右半部为相同结构的全棉普通针织面料)
Results結果Stage one: Running at 4 miles/hr第一階段:以4 英里/小時速度跑步
MMF Normal MMF Normal MMF Normal•Warm liquid arrive out surface
•No evaporation
Time时间 (min分钟)0 8 28
Beginning开始
began to sweat开始出汗
Heavy sweating出大汗
•More area of evaporation
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Result 结果(2)Stage two: Standing rest after 30 minutes running第二階段:跑步30分鐘後,立停休息
MMF Normal MMF NormalDry & Warm
Time 时间(min分钟)
75 85
45 55 (rest)
Damp, Cold
Results (3)Skin temperature distribution when take off shirt after 80 minutes rest
休息80分鐘後,除下T恤後皮膚表面的溫度分佈情況
Dry & Warm
Back view at take off shirt
刚除下T恤
Back view after 70 seconds除下T恤70秒后
Damp, Cold
Summary 结语
• Collaboration of Technology and Fashion科技與時尚的結合
– Clothing system design服装系统性设计– 服装系统性设计
• Comfort requirement– 舒适性的需求
Contact information联系方法
Contact information联系方法
Dr. Junyan HU胡军岩 博士,高级研究员
MN104, 香港理工大学纺织制衣学系MN104, Institute of Textiles and Clothing
胡军岩 博士,高级研究员
Tel: 852 27664206
Fax: 852 27731432
Email: [email protected]
Acknowledgement
致谢
We would like to thank HK Innovation Technology Commission and HKPOLYU for the funding of this research through projects
ITS‐051‐02, ITP‐001‐07TP and ITP‐031‐08TP