introducing tokyo

7/29/2019 Introducing Tokyo

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Tokyoites inhabit a singular capital inimitably yoking

past and future, where Zen temples nestle in sci-fi city-

scapes and centuries-old madness for cherry blossoms

coexists with an insatiable desire for nonstop novelty.

Old and new are forever juxtaposed in Tokyo: its residents are at home both donning loinclothsto shoulder a portable Shinto shrine through Asakusa s religious festivals and piloting humanoidfighting machines in Akihabaras robot sport tournaments. Tradition, happily, is not ossified,but feted along with innovation.

The workaholic stereotype is very true death from overwork is legally recognised in Japan but stroll through a neon-lined row of Shinjuku yakitori joints on the weekend, or any cherrygrove in spring, and youll see that people take pleasure very seriously here. There is ever-flowingsake, deep respect for freshly filleted fish and heartfelt karaoke, and constant curiosity abouthow outsiders view this archipelago at the end of the world.

Orderly, efficient Tokyo works stunningly well for a metropolis its size, yet it has about asmany masks as there are hostess clubs in Kabukich. Peeling back each faade reveals a citythats far less Western than first impressions suggest; nearly everything Tokyoites do, from tak-ing out the trash to cheering a ball game, is profoundly un-Western. Their reverence for ritual,

courtesy and the power to ganbaru (persevere) gives this super-dense megalopolis a calm atthe heart of the storm. This is wa social harmony and its the force that makes Tokyo morea series of one-of-a-kind experiences than a collection of sights.

TOKYO LIFETokyo never stops. Change trains during rush hour at Shinjuku Station and youll experienceTokyo at its most dizzying, with rivers of people pouring f rom the platforms. Gaze out from theobservation deck at the nearby Metropolitan Government Offices and youll see a vast labyrinthof a city that seems to continue forever. This metropolis of over 12 million people (expand thatto 33 million if you include the greater metropolitan area) has been constantly reinventing itselffollowing natural disaster, war and an endless architectural construction-demolition cycle.

Tokyo is far from beautiful, but it is totally modern. What it lacks in greenery and historicstructures is made up for by an almost playful chameleon character, with new redevelopmentzones transforming neighbourhoods like Roppongi, Marunouchi and Shiodome into chic newcentres of entertainment, business and media. Grand municipal schemes to host the OlympicGames in 2016 and to bury elevated expressways may again reconfigure the urban landscape.Meanwhile, yet another subway line will be added when the Fukutoshin Line starts funnellingpeople between Ikebukuro and Shibuya in 2008. Even though Japans population has started along decline because of low birth rates and zero immigration, Tokyo is still evolving.

Social pressures are often the subject in izakaya (Japanese-style pubs). The government seemsincapable of preparing for the system-wide shock that workforce shrinkage will deliver to theslowly recovering economy. Leaders are often mired in corruption scandals, yet the Japanesehave kept the same party in power virtually uninterrupted since 1955. B etween beers, they maysay there are no viable alternatives. Politics is a prickly subject, and touchier topics like TokyosYasukuni Shrine honouring the war dead, and indeed WWII in general, are best avoided.

The most popular visitors are usually those with a deep curiosity for Japanese culture, andTokyoites delight at trying to explain their native foods, social etiquette or the writing system.Tokyos millions are almost as intensely interested in themselves as outsiders, and devour articleson the sex lives of the elderly, the latest schoolgirl prostitution scandal or trends in yoga for pets.

Turn on the TV and youre bound to see infantile buffoonery on the variety shows and firemenbelting out their best enka blues on the national karaoke programme. Beneath its staid corporateface, the city is a child at heart. Tokyosjoie de vivre, frantic pace and pure energy never lets up.

Bright lights illuminate the classic meeting place outside Studio Alta, Shinjuku (p114)

Women in kimonos outside Kubuki-za (Kabuki Theatre, p61), Ginza

INTRODUCING TOKYO

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THE AUTHORS

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Matthew D FirestoneMatt is a trainedanthropologist andepidemiologist whoshould probably bein the midst of a suc-

cessful academic ca-reer by now, thoughsomehow he cantseem to pry himselfaway from Japan.Smitten with love

after a fifth grade Japan Day fair, Mattstarted down the road to being a full-fl edgedJapanophile after being diagnosed with a pre-mature taste for green tea and sushi. Aftergraduating from college and moving to Japanto work as a bartender, Matt taught himselfJapanese while learning a thing or two aboutthe Tokyo underworld. These days how-

ever, he prefers moonlighting as an Englishteacher when hes not on the road writingguidebooks to far-flung locales in Africa andCentral America.

MATTS TOP TOKYO DAY

Exploring every corner of Japans sprawlingcapital can take several lifetimes, especiallysince each of Tokyos neighbourhoods is de-fined by its own unique urban stylings. How-ever, a great introduction to the city is to walkfrom Harajuku through Aoyama to Shibuya,which takes in historic temples, ultramod-ern storefronts, cos-play(costume play) kids

and high fashionclad yuppies. Starting atMeiji-jing(p109), one of Tokyos most historic

shrines, wind your way down Omote-sand(p142). Along the way youll pass by trendyteens sporting bizarre fashions, as well as To-kyos rich and beautiful frequenting a wholeslew of name-brand boutiques. After arrivingin Shibuya (p105), get lost in the urban jungle ofneon-lit streets for a bit of retail therapy.

Timothy N HornyakA native of Montreal,Tim Hornyak movedto Japan in 1999 afterwatching KurosawasRan one too many atime. Since then hehas written on Japa-nese culture, tech-nology and historyfor titles includingWired News, Scien-

tific American and Far Eastern EconomicReview. He plays bass in a rock band inTokyo, has lectured on Japanese robots atthe Kennedy Center in Washington, and hastravelled to the heart of Hokkaid to findthe remains of a forgotten theme park calledCanadian World. His interest in haiku poetryhas taken him to Akita-ken to retrace thesteps of Basho, as well as to Maui to interviewpoet James Hackett. His favourite robot isAstro Boy, but he firmly believes that thegreatest Japanese invention of all time is theonsen (hot spring).

LONELY PLANET AUTHORSWhy is our travel information the best in the world?Its simple: our authors are independent, dedicatedtravellers. They dont research using just the internetor phone, and they dont take freebies in exchangefor positive coverage. They travel widely, to all thepopular spots and off the beaten track. They person-ally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafs, bars,galleries, palaces, museums and more and theytake pride in getting all the details right, and telling

it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how atlonelyplanet.com.



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GETTING STARTED

WHEN TO GOAs one of the worlds most exciting cities,

Tokyo will enchant regardless of when youvisit. In fact, if you take a quick look at thecalendar of festivals (see right), youll quicklyrealise that Tokyo hosts a number of bigevents every single month.

Festivals aside, the weather can have animpact on your trip, especially since summers(June to August) are stiflingly hot and humid,while the winter chill (December to February)can severely limit your outdoor time. But ifyou happen to time your visit to coincide withthe blooming of the cherry blossoms in thespring (March to May) or the changing of theleaves in autumn (September to November),

youll catch Tokyo at its best.

Otherwise you might want to time yourvisit so you can catch one of several annualsum tournaments, which take place in Janu-

ary, May and September (see p125), or per-haps a baseball game or two (p198), which areplayed from March to October.

FESTIVALSOld Edo was home to an abundance ofmat-suri (festivals), which originated in farmingcommunities as expressions of the Shintreligion. Spring festivals were held to sup-plicate the local gods and to secure a plenti-ful harvest, while autumn festivals were heldin thanks and celebration of a rich harvest.Summer and winter festivals were less com-

mon, though this changed with the rise oflarge urban settlements, where they wereheld in the hope of circumventing pestilenceand plague. Today, Tokyos civic calendar is

jam-packed with matsuri as well as a mix ofevents from traditional flower viewings totrade shows covering everything from mo-torcycles to design.

For a list of Japans national holidays seep249.

January & FebruarySHGATSU (NEW YEARSHOLIDAY)

1 to 3 JanuaryWhile Tokyo comes to a virtual halt on thefirst few days of the year (also referred to

GETTINGSTARTEDWHENTOGO

as O-Shgatsu, Honourable New Year),the citys large Shint shrines and Bud-dhist temples swell with visitors; Sens-ji(p85) and Meiji-jing(p109) are good placesto start. Although both of these places getextremely crowded Meiji-jing gets mil-lions of visitors alone it can be a particu-lar thrill to be part of the crowds of peoplefrom all walks of life, many of whom aredressed in fine kimono and purchasingseasonal trinkets.

You may also want to stop in at Yasu-kuni-jinja (p55), where the shrines dramaticn (stylised dance-drama) is performed inhonour of the shrines god. On 2 January,you should consider a visit to the ImperialPalace (p50) as the emperor and imperialfamily make a brief appearance in one ofthe inner courtyards its one of the veryrare occasions when visitors are alloweda glimpse into imperial life behind bullet-proof glass.

SETSUBUN 3 or 4 January

Setsubun marks the first day of spring in

the traditional calendar, a shift once be-lieved to bode evil and bring disaster. Toward off the oncoming evil, temples eruptinto metaphysical food fights as rowdy sup-pliants throw tiny sacks of roasted beansand shout, Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!(Devil out! Fortune in!).

SEIJIN-NO-HI (COMING-OF-AGEDAY) 15 January

Arrows fly at Meiji-jing(p109) during tradi-tional archery displays in the celebration ofthe world of the grown-up.

HARI-KUY Early FebruaryWomen mourn the passing of broken pinsand needles by burying their beloved sarto-rial pals in cubes of tofu or in radishes atSens-ji (p85).

March & AprilHINA MATSURI (GIRLS DAY) 3 March

Homes and public spaces are decoratedwith squat dolls dressed in the traditionaldress of the hina (princess). Around thistime, dolls made by children are setadrift on the Sumida River (Map p86) from

Sumida-ken near Azuma-bashi. Theresalso a Boys Day held in May (see OtokoNo Hi, p18).

UME HANAMI Early March

Before the riot of cherry blossoms comesto town, the plum trees do their ownnumber. Mt Takao, in far western Tokyo,fairly explodes with them. The closest sta-tion to Mt Takao is Takaosanguchi Stationon the Keio Line.

HIWATARI MATSURI Mid-March

Mountain monks take the lead in this festi-val in Mt Takao by walking over hot coals.If youre feeling invincible (or drunk), yourealso welcome to try.

ST PATRICKS DAY PARADE Mid-March

www.inj.or.jp/stpatrick_e.htmlSometime around 17 March, crowds linethe Omote-sand route (Map p110) rain orshine for the wearin and drinkin of thegreen. The parade is usually led by localIrish dignitaries and well attended by

Tokyos sizable, cohesive and always mer ryIrish expat community.

HANAMI (CHERRY-BLOSSOMVIEWING) Late March to April

Late March through April sees the much-anticipated and glorious reign of the cherryblossom. See the boxed text (p20) for detailson the best spots for these blossom-viewingparties.

TOKYO INTERNATIONALANIME FAIR Late March or Early April

www.taf.metro.tokyo.jp/enTokyos I nternational Anime Fair at TokyoBig Sight (Map p131) brings in everyone fromthe 17-year-old animephile living nextdoor to big-screen voice actors and some170 exhibitors. Sorry, cos-play (costume

play) is sadly not permitted inside as thedecorum of this bit of the event is surpris-ingly serious in an anime sorta way.


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Diving head first into the worlds largest megalopolis is daunting to even the most intrepid oftravellers. From language barriers and cultural shock to budget woes and the ever present threatof getting lost, Tokyo is not exactly the gentlest of destinations. With that said, the challengeof seeking out the heart and soul of modern Japan is rewarding in itself, especially s ince Tokyonever ceases to assault your senses and blow your mind.

Depending on your preferred style of travel, a trip to Tokyo can be as organised or as spon-taneous as youd like it to be. In the modern age of travel, all of your accommodation can bebooked online before you ever step foot on a plane, and there is no shortage of guided citytours (see p255) to help you catch your bearings. But, Tokyo is perhaps best experienced bysimply putting down the guidebook, getting lost in the crowds and finding your own secretcorner of the city.

Truth be told, Tokyo is the most expensive destination in Asia, and you cer tainly will not beable to survive here on a shoestring budget. However, one of the biggest misconceptions aboutJapan is that it is prohibitively expensive on the contrary, Tokyo is arguably a better bargainthan New York, London and most European capitals. Of course if you do have the cash to burn,Tokyo will roll out the tatami mat for you, and cater to your every conceivable whim withoutsparing even the slightest bit of style and class.

ADVANCE PLANNINGCheck out some of Tokyos top websites (p21) andfind out the latest from local media, including expatmagazines. Check to see if your trip coincides withpopular festivals (right). Make sure your passport andother documents are in order.

Give some thought to possible itineraries (p46)and how to best manage your time, especially if youare planning some excursions (p218). Scout aroundfor a good hotel (p202) and consider which restau-rants are worthy of your yen (p150).

On the day before you leave, reconfirm your fight(and make sure the oven is turned off ).

QUIRKY EVENTS Hari-kuy (February; left) Setsubun (February; left) Design Festa (May & November; p18 & p20) Takigi Noh (July & August; p18) Samba Carnival (August; p19)

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HANA MATSURI First Week in April

Happy birthday Buddha celebrations hap-pen across Japan. Look for the parade ofchildren in Asakusa, pulling a white papier-mch elephant.

TOKYO MOTORCYCLE SHOW Early April

At Tokyo Big Sight (Map p131) the biggestmotorcycle show in Japan has been lettingthe good times roll since the 1970s.

May & JuneOTOKO NO HI (BOYS DAY) 5 May

This is the male co unterpart to Hina Matsuri(see p17). Homes where boys live fly koino-bori(banners or windsocks in the shape ofa carp), a symbol of strength, never-endingstruggle and other masculine virtues.

KANDA MATSURI Mid-May

www.kandamyoujin.or.jpOne of the citys three big matsuri, this fes-tival features the obligatory music, dancingand a healthy dose of sake. The highlight

is the parade ofmikoshi(portable shrines)through the streets of Kanda (see KandaMyjin, p69).

SANJA MATSURI Mid-May

Another one of the citys three big matsuri,this three-day festival attracts around 1.5million spectators to Asakusa-jinja (p86).

The highlight is watching half-nak ed men(and women, although not half-naked)carry more than a hundred mikoshiaroundthe shrine and neighbouring Sens-ji. Thecrowd sheds its reserve and things getrowdy, so grab a beer or two and feel freeto jump into the action and let it all hangout so to speak.

DESIGN FESTA Mid- to Late May

www.designfesta.comAt Tokyo Big Sight (Map p131), this two-dayarts and design fair brings in 6000 exhibi-tors (professionals and amateurs alike) andsome 50,000-plus visitors, making it thebiggest art event in Asia. Also held in mid-November (see above).

IRIS VIEWING Early to Mid-June

Mizumoto-ken (3-2 Mizumoto-ken, Katsushika-ku) & Horikiri Iris Garden (2-19-1 Horikiri,Katsushika-ku)

These parks in Eastern Tokyo show off morethan 100 unique iris species. Saturdays andSundays bring drum performances andlarger crowds; weekdays are better for aquiet walk. These parks are best reached bytaking the Keisei Line to Kanamachi Station.

SANN-SAI Mid-June

Tokyoites turn out to Hie-jinja (p91) for thismatsuriwith music and dancing and theusual frenetic procession ofmikoshi, at the

former protector shrine for Edo Castle.

July & AugustINTERNATIONAL GAY &LESBIAN FILM FESTIVAL Mid-July

IGLFF; www.tokyo-lgff.org; various venuesAn outgrowth of the Gay Art Project, IGLFFhas nearly 20 seasons beneath its belt. Thefestival highlights the best gay and lesbianfilms from both Japan and around theworld.

SUMIDA RIVER

HANABI Last Saturday in JulySummertime in Japan is synonymous withexhibitions of fireworks (hanabi), whichhappen throughout the country. The oneson the Sumida River (Map p86) are amongthe most spectacular around. Although youmay have seen fireworks displays else-where, they probably havent prepared youfor the grandness of this one, which goeson, marvellously, for hours.

TAKIGI NOH July or August

As the summer weather starts to peak,shrines, temples and parks stage evening

outdoor n backlit by bonfires. Meiji-jing(p109), Kichijoji Gesoji and Shinjuku (Map p116)are the usual spots for evening perform-ances within the city limits. This is a greatbit of old Edo that has been preserved inmodern Tokyo.

O-BON Mid-August

For several days, Japanese city dwellersreturn to their ancestral provinces to gatherwith family and visit the graves of ancestors,marking the time when Buddhist teachingsays the dead revisit the earth. Bon-odori(folk dances) by people in yukata (light

cotton kimono) are held throughout Japan,but the one at Yasukuni-jinja (p55) is famous,illuminated by bonbori(paper lanterns).


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FUKAGAWA HACHIMAN Mid-August

The latest of the citys three big matsuriisfamous for its traditional chant ofwasshoi!wasshoi!as spectators pour sacred waterover the mikoshicarriers along the route.Needless to say, everyone gets wet, whichis certainly welcomed if the August sun isbeating down. Tomioka Hachimang(p125)is located near Monzen-nakacho Station onthe Tokyo Metro Tozai Line.

KENJI AWA ODORI Late AugustMore than 10,000 participants do the FoolsDance along a 2km stretch. If you happento find yourself along the parade route atKenji Station (Map pp489), youre welcometo break into your own rendition.

SAMBA CARNIVAL Last Saturday in August

This universally loved event, which is stagedby the Nikkei Brazilians, features roughly3500 dancers moving their fleshy way downKaminarimon-dri in Asakusa (Map p86) past ahalf-million spectators. The dancing is top-notch, and the judged competition is fierce,

drawing dancers all the way from Rio.

September & OctoberTOKYO GAME SHOW Mid-September

www.tgs.cesa.or.jp; Makuhari MesseGet your geek on when the ComputerEntertainment Suppliers Association stagesthis massive expo at a convention centreon the way to Narita Airport (MakuhariMesse is about 30 minutes east of Tokyo,via the JR Keiy Line from Tokyo Station toKaihin Makuhari Station). The holding ofthe event in 2008 marks its 17th year, and

you can expect more than 130 exhibitorsand 175,000 visitors over three days.

NINGY-KUY Late September

Childless couples pray for children by offer-ing dolls to Kannon, the Buddhist goddessof mercy. More interesting for spectatorsis the ceremonial burning by priests of allthe dolls held in the temple precinct fromthe previous year. See Kiymizu Kannon-d(p71) for more info.

TOKYO INTERNATIONALFILM FESTIVAL Late October

TIFF; www.tiff-jp.netBigger doesnt necessarily mean betterwhen it comes to film festivals, though the

TIFF the biggest in Asia maintains itsintegrity by keeping a feature-length filmcompetition at its core. The TIFF pays spe-cial attention to films from Asia, althoughthere are always selections in English.

EDO TENKA MATSURI Late October

This festival in Marunouc hi (Map pp523)began in 2003 to commemorate the 400thanniversary of Edo, and is held every twoyears (next is 2009). Youll find exhibits and

demonstrations of traditional Edo crafts, aswell as a parade ofmikoshi.

TOKYO METROPOLITANCHRYSANTHEMUMFESTIVAL Late October to Mid-November

Chrysanthemums are the flower of theseason (as well as the flower of the imperialfamily), and this dazzling display in Hibiya-ken (p61) is certainly cause for celebration,and has been ever since 1914. You can alsocatch dazzling chrysanthemum displays atShint shrines, including Meiji-jing(p109)and Yasukuni-jinja (p55).

November & DecemberTOKYO JIDAI MATSURI(FESTIVAL OF THE AGES) 3 November

On National Culture Day, locals, dressedin splendid costumes representing figuresfrom Japanese history parade around theSens-ji temple precincts in Asakusa (Mapp86). This festival takes after a much bigger(and older) one in Kyoto, held a couple ofweeks earlier.

TOKYO DESIGNERS WEEK Early November

www.tdwa.comVideo, furniture and fashion are a few ofthe genres represented at venues aroundthe city, mostly in arts enclaves such asAoyama, Harajuku and Roppongi. Partieshappen in the evenings.

SHICHI-GO-SAN (SEVEN-FIVE-THREE FESTIVAL) Early to Mid-November

This adorable festival c elebrates children ofthese tender ages, who were once thoughtto be in danger of imminent misfortune.Parents dress girls aged seven and threeand boys aged five in wee kimono and

head to Shint shrines and Buddhist tem-ples throughout town, grandparents oftenin tow. Its a prime photo opportunity.


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KY (AUTUMN FOLIAGE SEASON)

The citys trees undergo magnificent sea-sonal transformations during ky. For list-ings of optimum foliage-viewing pleasure,see boxed text, (below).

DESIGN FESTA Mid-November

www.designfesta.com;This enormous ar t and design festival atTokyo Big Sight (Map p131) is held for a sec-ond time in mid-November. See also p18.

INTERNATIONAL ROBOTEXHIBITION Late November to Early December

This biennial event organised by the JapanRobotics Association and friends attractedmore than 100,000 people in 2007. Thenext event scheduled is for 2009.

COSTS & MONEYTokyo, once known as an impossibly expen-sive city, has become a lot more affordablein the last 10 years or at least prices havefrozen, giving the rest of the world a chanceto catch up. Truth be told, its still possibleto spend thousands of dollars on a five-starhotel room, and wine and dine on gourmetcuisine until your bank account is in thered, but Tokyoites are quick to point out thattheir city is as expensive as you want it tobe. In fact, for every upmarket hotel or so-phisticated restaurant in the capital, there arenumerous affordable guesthouses and cheapnoodles shops scattered about. And, in lightof the recent plummeting of the US dollar andthe strengthening of the British Pound andthe euro, a trip to Tokyo is arguably better

GETTINGSTARTEDCOSTS&MONEY

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value than one to London, Paris or any otherEuropean capital.

Although shoestringers will have to partwith a bit more cash than theyre perhapsused to, it is possible to survive in Tokyo foraround 5000 a day, though you will have tosleep in dormitories, subsist on noodles andrice, and limit your sight-seeing to cut down

on entrance and transport fees. More realisti-cally, a budget of 10,000 to 15,000 will allowyou to bed down in a private room, sampleTokyos spectacular culinary offerings andsnap a few hundred shots at sights aroundthe city. If money is no object, then welcometo paradise Tokyo is a rich persons fantasycome true.

Throughout this book, we have brokendown sleeping and eating listings based onprice. For instance, budget sleeps are roomscosting 6500 or less, midrange rooms costbetween 6500 and 16,000, and top-endrooms will cost more than 16,000. Budget

eats will cost around 1000 or less for lunch,and 2000 or less for dinner. A quality mid-range meal can run upwards of 5000, whilehaute cuisine can easily run to 20,000 perperson.

As any Tokyoite will tell you, you dontneed to raid the shelves of the convenience

stores or to eat rmen (noodles) three timesa day to survive here. Generally speaking,anything that requires a lot of space costsa lot (eg bowling alleys, cinemas, domesticproduce), so you can save a bit if you avoidthese minor pleasures. Also, although mostmuseums and cinemas dont generally offerdiscounts to adults, concessions are usuallyavailable to students, children and senior stu-dents. And finally, you should know, too, thatTokyos little-kept secret, the bargain lunchset, can sometimes put your foot in the doorat places that might otherwise be beyond yourbudget.

INTERNET RESOURCESThere is a vast treasure trove of Japan-relatedinfo on web. Before touching down in Tokyo,take a few moments to check out the follow-ing sites:

Hyperdia (www.hyperdia.com) Having problems findingyour way around Tokyo? Resident expats use this Englishsite to make sense of Tokyos overwhelming transporta-tion grid.

Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO; www.jnto.go.jp/eng) The JNTO offers an extremely comprehensiveguide to tourism in Tokyo and the whole of Japan.

Japan Times (www.japantimes.co.jp) Tokyos most widelycirculated English-language newspaper is a great way tocatch up on the latest Japan headlines.

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Includes sum-maries on travelling in Tokyo, the Thorn Tree Forum,travel news and links to the most useful travel resourceson the web.

Metropolis (www.metropolis.co.jp/default.asp) Japansmost popular English-language weekly magazine is a greatinsight into whats happening around the country.

The Man in Seat 61 (www.seat61.com) The source for allyour train-related inquiries in Japan as well as the rest ofthe world.

Tokyo Notice Board (www.tokyonoticeboard.co.jp) Fromapartment listings to job openings, this weekly English-language classified zine is worth checking out.

GETTINGSTARTEDINTERNETRESOURCES

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TOKYO IN BLOOMOwing to the seasonal nature of Japanese culture, monitoring the progress of spring blossoms and autumn foliage isan obsession up and down the archipelago the national news carries maps of their progress. Even though Tokyo islargely hemmed in by concrete, blossom-viewing and leaf-peeping are still a big deal.

HanamiCherry blossoms seem to burst out overnight sometime between the end of March and the beginning of April, repre-senting the climax of spring. Hanami(cherry-blossom viewing) parties begin with the earliest buds and endure to thelast clinging blossoms. Both daytime parties and moonlit soirees are standard, as crowds flood the parks with beerand good humour. Hama Riky Onshi-teien (p66) there are about a hundred cherry trees here, including a few wild varieties. A

small admission fee keeps the crowds at bay. Zj-ji (p98) about a hundred trees are found here at Shiba-ken, with the temple for a backdrop. Shinjuku-gyen (p119) a prime cherry-blossom attraction, this garden has several varieties of cherry trees,

including the spectacular yaezakura (double-blossoming cherries). Ueno-ken (p70) ground zero for the hanamiexplosion as enthusiasts vie for the best angle on Uenos 1000

flowering trees. Yasukuni-jinja (p55) there are more than a thousand cherry trees in the grounds of the shrine; check out the

cherry trees lining the nearby Imperial Palace moat as well. Yoyogi-ken (p108) there is plenty of space here to stretch out and admire the parks 500 or so cherry trees.

KyDuring the ky (autumn foliage season), which runs from about mid-October to early November, Tokyos trees virtuallyexplode in colour. Look especially for the maple, which goes through a minor spectrum of yellows and oranges beforeclimaxing in a fiery red. Some of the best spots include the following. Kitanomaru-ken (p51) located just north of the Imperial Palace, this grassy expanse is a great place for an

autumn stroll and/or a picnic. Koishikawa Krakuen (p58) a lovely pond and surrounding gardens make this park one of Tokyos best foliage spots. Shinjuku-gyen (p119) this sprawling gardens many leaf-peeping locales include the Western-style garden. Ueno-ken (p70) as popular for autumn foliage as for cherry blossoms. Yasukuni-jinja (p55) the tree-lined walkway leading to this temple explodes in a fury of autumn colours.

Yoyogi-k

en (p108) this sprawling park is dotted with picturesque ginkgo, zelvoka and cherry trees.

HOW MUCH?

1L petrol 135

1L bottled water 145

Kirin beer at a bar 700

Kirin beer from a vending machine 300

Pack of cigarettes 280

Souvenir T-shirt 2000

Onigiri (rice ball) 120

Cup of coffee in a caf 450

Cinema ticket 1800

2km taxi ride 660

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introducing tokyo

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