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LICH SU VA DANH THANG
BAN THANH NIEN lA NO« - 1998
LA DANG BAT
CO DO HOA LU* LICH Sir VA DANH THANG
1 """i •*— \
?- i < ^ ' r NHA XUAT BAN THANH NIEN
HA NOI --1998
;»C5J ^ - <
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I 3 Dl NINH BINH
1. D^n tho vua Dinh TiSn Hoang 2. Din tho vua L6 Oai Hanh 3. Ma Y&n Son 4. Chua NhSt Tru 5. Din tho cdng chua PhSt Kim 6. Dong Am Tl&n 7. Xuy§n Thuy Dong
8. Dong Hoa Son
9. Dong Thi§n T6n
Vi tri cac danh thang trong khu viic Co do Hoa Lu"
Ldi GICll THIEU Do dieu kien dia li va Ijch sCi. Ninh Binh c6 nhieu danh
thdng vd di tich ndi t ieng cua ddt nUdc, trong do so mpt Id Co do Hoa LU.
GiQa mot vung non nUdc hQu tinh. tgi xd TrUdng Yen, huyen Hoa LU, each ddy tren mot ngdn ndm, sou khi dep xong logn 12 sQ qudn, thong nhdt sdn hd, thu phuc giang sdn ve mot moi, Dinh Bo LTnh dd len ngoi Hodng de, goi Id Dinh Tien Hodng, dd t ten nUdc Id Dgi Co Viet vd xdy diJng kinh do tgi TrUdng Yen. Cdi ten Hoa LU ghi Igi dd'u d'n luc thie'u thdi Dinh Bp LTnh cung cdc bgn ehdn trdu dung hoa lau Idm cd tdp trdn. Hoa LU dd trd thdnh kinh do dau tien cua nUdc Etai Co Viet - nhd nUdc phong kien tdp quyen Viet Nam thd'ng nhd't ddu tien. Id kinh do cua hai trieu dgi Dinh vd Tien Le. Til ddy , ndmlOlO Li Cdng Udn ddi dd ra Thdng Long. Tren nen cung dien cu dy , nhdn ddn ta dd xdy hai ngdi den thd Dinh Tien Hodng vd Le Dgi Hdnh vdi nhCfng net kien true ddc sdc ndm gida mot vung non nUdc nen thd vd mot gudn the danh thdng, di tich ki thu, trd thdnh mot trung tdm du lich ndi tie'ng, thu hut du khdch trong nUdc vd qudc te de'n thdm vieng.
Ngdy nay den Co dd Hoa LU, qud khQ vd hi^n tgi , Ijch sC( vd cdnh quan, thien nhien vd con ngUdi hda quyen nhau nhd dUa ta ve cgi nguon ngdn ndm bdt khud't cua ddn toe de tim hieu, de khdm phd, de tin tUdng d khi phdch , tdi tri, Idng yeu nUde, tinh thdn tU hdo, tU tdn ddn too, y thUe doc Idp, iU chu , tU lUe, tU cUdng, truyen thd'ng vdn hien vd y chi thdng nhdt dd t nddc cua nhdn ddn ta. Cung vdi nhdng di tich hien hien tren mdt ddt , gdn d d y ngdnh Khdo co dd phdt hien vd khai qudt dUdi tdng dd t giCfa hai den thd vua Dinh vd vua Le nen cung dien c d c h d d y tren 1000 ndm vdi nhdng hien vdt quy gid, minh chdng cho nhdng cdng trinh kien true cua Cd dd Hoa LU vd trinh do phdt trien ve kien true, nghe thugt, kinh te, vdn hda, xd hdi cua ddn tdc ta thdi bdy gid.
Vdi mdt khdi lUdng dd so, phong phu, nhieu tdng , nhieu Idp, cd be rdng vd chieu sdu, ve khdng gian, ve thdi gian cua khu vUc Co dd Hoa Ld vd c d c di t ich, danh thdng gdn lien vdi Cd d d , du khdch de'n thdm du cd d mot vdi ngdy vd du cd dugc hddng d d n , gidi thieu cdn ke cung khdng the ndo tim hieu thd'u d d o dUgc, hudng ho ch i den mot hai budi. Qe giup cho viec tim hieu, nghien cdu , cho den nay d d cd nhieu tdc phdm vdn thd, khdo cQu. sdu tdm. sdn khd'u ve Cd dd Hoa LU. Dung vdo dip trien khai Nghj quyet TW 5 ve "Xay dUng vd phdt trien nen vdn hoa Viet Nam tien tien, ddm dd bdn sdc ddn toe", anh Ld E)dng Bdt, nhd gido, ddng tdc gid cudn sdch "TrUdng Hdn Sieu - Nhd vdn Idn thdi Trdn, Danh nhdn vdn h d a d d n t o e " , t d c g id cud 'n "Ve vd i "Vjnh Hg Long cgn"", . . .vd nhidu bdi nghien cdu , sUu t dm , gidi thieu c d c di t ich, danh thdng d Ninh Binh tren c d c sdch, bdo, dd dUa cho tdi xem tdp bdn thdo " C d d d Hoa LU", gidi thieu ve Cd dd Hoa LU vd c d c di t ich, danh thdng gdn lien vdi C d d d , vUa ed tfnh he thdng, vUa ed nhdng phdt hien mdi tU c d c ngudn tU lieu tin e d y vd ket qud quan sdt trL/c tiep.
Qua cudn sdch ndy, cd the giup ngUdi doe hieu biet d d y du hdn, sdu hdn ve mot vung ddt Ijch sCf, vdn hien gdn lien vdi nhUng nhdn vdt Ijch si!( dd cd cdng lao trong qud trinh dUng nUdc vd giQ nUde, de t d dd gdp phdn ndng coo vd phdt huy hdn nda Idng yeu nUde, tinh thdn ttJ hdo ddn toe, tiep bUdc cha dng, xdy dUng vd phdt trien nen vdn hda Viet Nam tien t ien, d d m dd bdn sdc ddn toe, xdy dUng vd bdo ve To qudc, vl muc tieu ddn gidu nUdc mgnh, xd hpi cdng bdng vd vdn minh.
Vdi c d m nhdn d'y, xin ehdn thdnh c d m dn tdc g id, Nhd xud't bdn Thanh nien vd gidi thieu cung bgn doe.
•/UD -Ov n. Ninh Binh. ngay 25-9-1998
-• • N G U Y I N THANH TUC y .iOL Phd Bf thUTfnh dy
Chu fich HDND thh Ninh Binh
^i\.i •l^^. i.'-.'n ^.''.•.. vk.vn.
«c.'\ jt\^v\; CO DO HOA LU *
Cd D6 Hoa hd la kinb do d&u tien trong n§n van
minb Dai Vi&t cua d^n t5c, nen phong kien tap quyen d
nifdc ta. , , ' • . V
N6'u du kbacb mudn tbam Cd Do Hoa hd, tuf Ha Noi
xuoi pbia Nam tbeo ducrng qudc lo lA hdn 90km, de'n
C§u Huyen thuoc xa Ninh MI re phai vao diTcfng Tien
Yet, di khoang 5km v& phia Tay la de'n. Do la mot di6n
tich trai rong khoang 300ha bao trum len xa Trufcfng
Yen, huy&n Hoa Lu, tinh Ninh Binh.
Trung tam Co Do Hoa Lu la khu vUc HAI NGOI DEN
THd VUA DINH TIEN H O A N G VA VUA LE DAI
HANH thu6c xa TrUcmg Yen.
Nam 968, Dinh B6 Linh len ngoi Hoang de, gpi la
Dinh Tien Hoang, dat ten nUdc la Dai Co Viet.
Dinh Tien Hoang chon Hoa h\i (xa Tn.fcrng Yen,
huyen Hoa Ltr ngay nay) la viing nui non ki thu nhiftig
bi6m trd de lam tbtj do — "Kinh Do Da".
Sach "Dai Viet stjf Ivfdc" (khuyet danh thcJi Trin) co
ghi: "Den ndm thU nhdt nien hieu Khai Ban (968) ddi
vua Trieu Id Tdng Thdi To, Vucfng xung Hodng de d
LA DANG BAT
dgng Hoa Lu (1). Roi dung cung dien, che trieu nghi,
sdp dot trdm quan, lap xd tdc vd ton hieu Id Dgi Thdng
Minh Hodng de" (2)
Nha stjf hoc Le Van HuM (1230 — 1322), trong cudn "Dai Viet siif ki", khi ban ve Dinh Tien Hoang co viet:
"Tien Hodng vdi tax nang sdng sudt hcfn ngUdi, ddng lugc bgc nhdt thien ha, ddm ducfng luc nudc Viet ta khong cd chu, cdc hiing trudng cdt cU khdp ncfi, mot ldn cd sU, mUdi hai sii qudn deu than phuc het. The roi md nudc, dung do, doi nien hieu, xung Hodng de, dot tram quan, lap sdu qudn, che dp gdn du" (3)
Nguyin Trai (1380 — 1442) la b^c dai thi hao dau tien cua dan toe, trong cudn "Dia dd chi" cung ghi:
"Dinh (Dinh Bp Linh) gpi nudc Id Dgi Co Viet, dong do d Hoa Lu... Hoa Lu xUa Id Dgi Hodng, bdy gid Id phu Trudng Yen" (4)
Tai day, ong cho xay cung dien, dat trieu nghi, dap thanh, dao bao, dUa vao the nui xay dutig mot c6ng trinh
(D'Dpng khbng co nghia la hang dong, ma la tfen di gpi m6t khu vuc cu tru cua dong bao mten nui. Thdi Dinh Bp Linh chac Hoa Lu la khu VUc cu tni ciia dong bao Mudng, va lai khi % cung chua co su phan hoa ro ret giUa ngucri Mudng vdi ngudi Kinh nhu tir th&' ky XIV trd di (theo Dinh Gia Khanh trong cud'n "Truy&n hay nudc Vi&t" — NXB Thong tin — Ha Noi — 1988.
(2) "Dai Vi&t su lupc" — NXB Thanh phd Hd Chi Minh — 1993 — Trang 90.
(3) "Van tha Li - TrSn" — Tap 2 — Quyin thudng — NXB KHXH — Ha Ndi — 1988 — Trang 361.
(4) "Nguyin Trai toan tap" (in Ian thd 2) — NXB KHXH — Ha Ndi — 1976 — Trang 216. . '
8
CO DO HOA LU"
phong ngU kien cd nhU mot phao dai hiem, biet lap vdi ben ngoai.
Kinb do Hoa Lu nam gon trong dia phan xa Tnfcmg Yen ngay nay, dUcfc bao quanh bdi bang loat nui da vong cung, canh quan hiing vl. Khoang trdng giu'a cac su'cfn nui dxiOc xay kin bang da't ken gach, chan thanh co gach bo, dap kha cao tOf 8 de'n 10 met — co doan phia trong xay gach, phia ngoai dap dat, co doan dap da lan dat va CO doan dap toan bang dat. Do la nhiJng doan tifdng thanh nhan tao. Hien nay dau vet cua mtfcri tuyen ttfcfng thanh vin con. Dinh Tien Hoang da rat chu y den yeu td "Thanh" de bao ve kinh 46. Phia Bac thanh nam ben s5ng Hoang Long cho nen dUcfng giao thong thuy rat thuan tien. Day la trung tam chinh tri, kinh te', van boa va la mot quan thanh vilng chac.
"Dai Nam nha't thdng chi" co vi§'t: ' ' ' ' '
"Do cd nhd Dinh, nhd Le d xd TrUdng Yen Thuang vd Trudng Yen Hg.... cd Npi Thdnh vd Ngogi Thdnh".
Ngoai hai khu thanh do, con co thanh Nam (thanh d phia Nam tu" hang Ludn trd vao trong, nkm ddi dien va ndi lien vdi khu Thanh Ngoai). 0 day, xung quanh co nui cao bao hoc, an ngu" phi'a Nam kinh thanh, bao ve mat sau - td day, bang duTcftig thiiy co the nhanh chong nit ra ngoai. Thanh Ngoai rong khoang 140 ha thuoc dia phan th6n Yen Thu'dng va thon Yen Thanh, xa TrvTcfng Yen. Day la cung dien chinh, ma khu vu'c Jen Dinh, den Le la trung diem, la ncfi Dinh Tien Hoang cam ccf nu'dc.
LA DANG BAT
Trudrc cung dien cd NUI MA YEN, T U O N G TRUYEN, VUA DINH TIEN HOANG LAY NUI NAY LAM AN. d thon Yen Thanh co nhieu chua va den, hien nay vin con, la mot phan kien tnic trong khu cung dien chinh. Do la CHUA NHAT TRU, Du'de XAY TU" Ddi VUA LE DAI HANH. TRUdC CT A CHUA CO COT KINH BANG DA HINH TAM CANH, K H A C BAI KINH L A N G NGHIEM. Cach chua Nha't Tru mot doan la DEN PHAT KIM (thcf cong chiia Pha't Kim — con gai ciia vua Dinh Tien Hoang).
Lui ve phia Tay Bac co chua Dia nam trong mot dong nho cf liftig chi^g nui Dia. NgUcfi xtfa da lay dong lam chua, trong dong bay nhfeu tifcfng Phat tren cac be xky. Dong cao so vdi chan niii khoang 30 met. Mudn len chua phai men theo sUcfn mii biidc len gian 60 bac da. Cac vach dong co nhfeu nhii da chay dai vdi cac hinh hai dep. Xung quanh "CbCia", tren cac vach niii nhieu cky si ldn cung cac cay dai thu vUcfn canh bao phu mot mau xanh. Re cac cay si tha xudng nhif nhu'ng "bo rau" ciia thdi gian tren da lam cho chua cang them co kinh, trang nghiem. Hien nay "ngoi chua da" do vin con.
Phia Bac kinh do Hoa h\X, gan sdng Hoang Long (cf vi tri ^ n cdng de Tru'dng Yen - each den thcf vua Le Dai Hanh khoang 2 km) la chua Thap (bien nay khdng con), CO thap Bao Thien.
Cling ^ n song Hoang Long, each chiia Thap ve phia Dong 200 met la chua Ba Ngo, da difdc xay dung lai,
10
CO DO HOA LLT
hien con giu" dUdc mot bia da bdn mat (cao hcfn 1 met, be ngang 0,5 met) deu cham khac chii" Han ghi cong diic nhu'ng ngudi da cung tie'n xay dung chiia.
Chua Dia, chiia Thap, chiia Ba Ngo deu diTdc xay dung tii thdi nha Dinh. )-• •'.';
(Nam 1963, trong khi tri thuy song Hoang Long, nhan dan da dao ducfc mot cot kinh Phat hinh bat giac, cham khac chii Han, cf do co ghi: Dinh Lien da lam 100 toa kinh Phat de dang len chua).
Thanh Noi cf phia Tay Bac co dien tich tUdng dUcfng vdi Thanh Ngoai, thuoc thon Chi Phong, xa TrUdng Yen, CO ten la Thd Nhi Xa hay Khd Nhi Xa, la ncfi nuoi tre em va lam kho. Goi Thanh Noi, Thanh Ngoai la goi tCf phia trong ra phia ngoai, chu' khong phai chi cac vong thanh phia trong hay phia ngoai. ciing khong mang y nghia la khu thanh phu hay khu thanh chinh.
Thanh Noi va Thanh Ngoai la hai khu vUc each biet nbUng cf sat canh nhau va co the qua lai dUcfc de dang nhcf mot ngacb niii an thong goi la Quen Vong. 0 hai khu CO cdng ldn x^y bang da, co hao sau, bac ngang qua bao sau la nbiJng chiec cau ciing bang da. Do la cau Dong, cau Ren... Cau Dong lam bang da phien (hien nay lam thay bang xi mang cdt thep), bac ngang qua song Sao Khe chay tiif sdng Hoang Long ve, nam cf phia Bac niii Hd. Hien con hai chii" Han ldn: "Dong Kfeu" cham khac ndi d vach da nui Ho. Cau each den thd vua Le Dai Hanh ve hudng Bac khoang 600 met nkm d pbia Dong
11
LA DANG BAT
kinh do Hoa Ld, nen goi la cau Dong. Cau Ren ciing lam bang da (hien nay lam thay bang xi mang cdt thep) bac ngang qua song Sao Khe lui ve phia Bac each cau Dong khoang 500 met.
Ben ngoai khu thanh co nhfeu tram gac bao ve. Kinh thanh nam giiia nhiJng qua mii ldn bao hoc xung quanh, mang nang tinh chat quan sii. Day la mot vi trf kin dao thuan ldi cho viec phong thu, tie'n cong, mat khac lai xa bien thiiy ai Bac — giac phddng Bac kho khan trong viec tim bieu de mcf nhiing deft ta'n cong chdp nhoang.
Phia Dong Bac thanh eo niii Cot Ccf, xUa la ndi vua Dinh cam cd nddc. Niii cao hdn 200 met, nhd mot cot cd thien nhien khong 16, vl dai. Phia Dong Nam thanh cd Ghenh Thap la mot mom mii thap nho ra sat sdng Sao Khe (gan Xuyen Thiiy Dong). Mom niii nay, tddng truyen la ndi vua Dinh, vua Le thu'dng difng de duyet thiiy quan. SONG SAO KHE CHAY QUA HANG LUON (XUYEN THUY DONG) L A Ndi CAC DdN VI THUY QUAN CUA VUA DINH LUYEN TAP THl/dNG XUYEN.
.;; .1 • .. .. n . , , • (pl -...iiioa m imA Cling cf phia D6ng Nam khu Thanh Ngoai con co
DONG AM TIEN 0 LU>JG CHLTNG NUI LA Ndi VUA DINH NUdi NHOT H 6 BAO DE TRLTNG TRI N H I T N G
KE CO TOI. Dddi chan niii Dia nam ve phia Bac khu Thanh Ngoai co mot ao ldn, ten la Ao Giai. Tddng truyen, Ao Giai la ndi vua Dinh nuoi giai de nem nhiing ke CO toi xudng ao eho giai an thit. Ngoai ra con cd hang
12
CO DO HOA LU
Mudi la kho tich mudi, hang Tien la kho tni" tien, va mdt thung lung kha r6ng d phia trong hang Quan la ndi qu^n si cua vua Dinh thddng den tap luyen, nen dan dia phddng goi la "Dau dong quto". Tat ca niii song va khu vdc thanh cd nhip nhd do thien tao va nhan tao da hinh thanh m6t qu^n the kien tnic trang nghiem, dd sd, khoang dat ma khong mdt kinh do cd nao cd dddc.
Vua Dinh Tien Hoang da r i t quan tam den viec x^y dufng kinh thanh Hoa Ld.
Song song vdi vi&c dd vua Dinh Tien Hoang cdn td chiie bd may Nha nddc tddng ddi hoan chinh, djnh pham ham cho cac quan van, vd; phong Nguyen Bac lam Dinh qudc cdng, giii" chdc Thai Te (ddng sau vua); phong Dinh Dien gid chiic Ngoai Giap (trong coi ngoai kinh thanh), phong Le Hoan, gid chdc Thap Dao tddng quan... Ngoai ra, vua Dinh Tien Hoang cdn td chdc qimn ddi ra't chat che, chia lam 10 dao, mdi dao cd 10 quan, mdi quan cd 10 Id, mdi Id cd 10 tdt, mdi tdt cd 10 ngu.
Nhdng tdi nam 979, mdt tai hoa ldn da den vdi nha Dinh: Dinh Tien Hoang va con trai ca Dinh Liin bi Dd Thi:^b am hai. Dinh Tien Hoang cf ngdi dddc 12 nam (968 — 979), tho 56 tudi. The la trong trfeu cd nhieu vu xung dot xay ra. Trieu dinh phai dda ngddi con trai thii ciia Dinh Tidn Hoang la Dinh Toan mdi 6 tuoi l§n lam vua. Khi dd, trong nddc noi bd trieu dinh luc due, ngoai nddc nha Tdng (Trung Qudc) thda dip tie'n hanh mdu dd thdn tinh nddc Dai Cd Viet — Dit nddc dang ddng
13
LA DANG BAT
trddc hiem hoa bi giac ngoai xam de doa nghiem trong. Trieu dinh cd vua nhu'ng vua Dinh Toan cdn it tudi, chda du kha nang va uy tin de td chdc va lanh dao cuoc khang chien. Vi sd nghiep bao ve dpc lap dan toe, Thai hau Dddng Van Nga va mot sd quan lai cung ddng dao quan si da suy t6n Le Hoan len lam vua td thang 7 nam 980. Le Hoan la mot ngddi ed uy tin trong trieu luc biy gid dang giu' chdc Thap Dao Tddng Quan (Tdng chi buy quan dpi). Td dd cham ddt vai trd nha Dinh trong lich sd dan tdc. Nhd vay nha Dinh chi d ngdi dddc 13 nam (968 — 980).
Ll trao ngoi vua da diin ra tai kinh dd Hoa Ld. Le Hoan len ngdi vua nam 980, lap nen mot trieu dai mdi, trieu Tien Le, vin lly Hoa Ld lam kinh dd. Mdt nhiem vu lich sii trpng dai dat ra trddc dan toe va trieu dinh lue biy gid la phai ga'p rut td chdc cudc khang chien chdng quan xam Iddc Tdng.
Dau nam 981, quan Tdng theo hai dddng thiiy, bd ao at den xam Idde nddc ta dinh tie'n vao vay bam kinh dd Hoa Ld. Le Hoan trdc tiep td chdc va lanh dao cudc khang chien. Cudc khang chien chdng quan xam Iddc Tdng da gianh dddc thing ldi rdc rd. Lich sd dan tdc lai ghi them mdt ehie'n cdng mdi lam ve vang cho non sdng dit nddc va kinh dd Hoa Ld. Sau khi chien thing quan xam Iddc Tdng, Le Hoan tim each lap lai quan he bang giao vdi nha Tdng. Cac sd than cua nha Td'ng de'n kinh dd Hoa Ld, chdng kien canh nui sdng iiung vl, thay con
14
CO DO HOA LLT
ngddi Dai Cd Viet thdng minh, cd sdc manh ldn lao, da phai than phue va kinh nl' nddc Dai Cd Viet. Nhdng cudc bang giao ciia eac sd than nha Td'ng vdi nha Tien Le cf kinh dd Hoa Ld khi dd, ghi nhan mdt quan he ngoai giao qudc td ban diu, mdt chinh sach ddi ngoai kien quyet nhdng mem deo, khdn kheo de gid gin hda binh cho dan tdc.
Dit nddc lai binh yen, Le Hoan cho xay them nhi&u
cung dien long lly, gdp phan lam cho kinb dd Hoa Ld
ngay cang hoan chinh, trong dd ed nhdng cung di&n xay
cdt dat vang, dat bac, mai Idp bang ngoi bac. Trong cud'n
"Dai Vi§t sii ki toan thd" ciia Ngd SI Lien, cd ghi: "Gidp
Than ndm thit 5 (984): Dung nhieu cung dien; ldm dien
Bach Bdo Thien Tue d niii Dgi Vdn, cot dien ddt vdng
bac, ldm ncfi coi chdu; ben Dong Id dien Phong Luu, ben
Tdy Id dien Td Hoa; ben td Id dien Bong Lai, ben hitu Id
dien Cue Lac; roi ldm lau Dgi Vdn, roi lgi dung dien
Trudng Xudn ldm nai vua ngd, ben/cgnh dien TrUdng
Xudn dung dien Long Lpc lap bang ngdi bgc" (1). Day la
tam cdng trinh dddc xay ddng td nam 984. Mdt cdng
trinh thd chin xuit hi§n nda la dien Can Nguyen: "Ndm
Nhdn Thin (992) Id ndm thU 3 nien hieu Hung Thdng,
mUa xudn vua ngU d ldu Cdn Nguyen de xem den" (2).
Nui Dai Van nam d ngay phia sau khu "den Dinh va d&n
(1) (2) — "Dai Vi&t su lutfc" — NXB Thanh phd Hd Chi Minh — 1993 — Trang 100, 101.
IS
LA DANG BAT
Le hien nay, cdn gpi la ndi Long Trieu (Dai nam nhit
thdng chi), dan dia phddng gpi la nui Phi Van da xay
ddng dien Bach Bao Thien Tue. Dieu dd chdng td kinh
dd Hoa Ld ed quy md be the, dep de, uy nghi, trang
hoang long lly, hda nhap vdi thien nhien hung vl (1)
Nam 1005, vua Le Dai Hanh qua ddi tai dien Trddng
Xuan, d ngdi 25 nam (980 — 1005), thp 64 tudi. Con thd
ba eiia vua Le Dai Hanh la Le Trung Tdng len lam vua
dddc 3 ngay. Le Long Dinh (Le Ngpa Trieu) la eon thd 5
cua vua Le Dai Hanh va la em trai eung me ciia vua Le
Trung Tdng, da eddp ngdi, giet vua Le Trung Tdng len
ngdi nam 1006. Nam 1009 vua Le Ngpa Trieu mit. Nhd
vay nha Tien Le cf ngdi dddc 29 nam (980 — 1009). Hien
nay, du khach den day khdng cdn nhin thay nhu'ng cung
(1) Nam 1978, Ti Van hoa Thdng tin Ha Nam Ninh khao sat tai khu vuc Trudng Yen, huyen Hoa Lu, phat hien thay chan mdng bang da xep vudng v i n n h u d ban cd d dp sau 0,6 met, mot hen nha lat bang gach "Giang Tay quan" da bi vd, mot idp tro than day 20 - 30 cm d dp sau 0,90 met , mot mang hen gach hoa sen kich thudc 34 x 34 x 7 cm. Cling vdi mot sd manh ngdi dng d dp sau 0,95 met, mdt sd go lat muc day 10 - 20 cm va nhui ig m a n h gach ngoi ken day 40 cm c6 da'u vet tudng gach. Id nung gdm va dau vet kien t rue bi dd na t rdng t r am met vudng. Trudc dd cac nha khao cd hpe da dao dUdc nhieu manh bat dia, xuong voi. xUdng ngua va cot kinh Phat , t ren cd khac ddng chu "De tu T inh hai quan. Tiet dp su. Nam Viet Vuang Dinh Qudc Lien kinh tao bao t r ang nha't bach tda thdi Quy Dau tue" d gan sdng Hoang Long. Tai xa Trudng Yen dao dUdc hai loai gach, t ren ma t co ddng chU "Dai Viet qudc quan t h a n h chuyen" va "Giang Tay quan" (loai gach do quaii si Giang Tay thdi Dudng d d n g p nUdc ta san xua't ra). O khu \-uc ddng Thien Tdn thudc xa Ninh Ml cung dao dupc hai loai gach do. ^ , .
16
CO DO HOA LLT
dien nguy hga. nhdng tddng thanh vung ehlc, nhdng se
chdng kien day du nhdng ngpn nui, bang ddng, ddng
sdng va ao ngdi, nhdng ten gpi dd da ed td xa xda, dd la
mdt phan edn lai ma khdng bao gid mat di dddc ciia kinh
dd Hoa Ld. ''' ••'^•- • •''- ' ' ''' - -*'"••'•'
Tham quan d&n Dinh, Le xong, du khach trd ve con
dddng bp da vao, nam ve phia Ddng Thanh Ngoai la
dddng Tie'n Yet. Day la con dddng bd chinh vao kinh dd
Hoa Ld, cdn gpi la "Dddng Ciifa Ddng". (Hien cdn t im
bia Cda Ddng ghi: "Dudng Cua Dong Trdng An Id mot
Idi di rong ldn, mot thang cdnh d ddt Gia Vien (Hoa Lu). ^
TU khi Dinh Tien Hodng dung nUdc dinh do... d phia o
Dong do thdnh, Nien Thdn The gpi Id Dudng Cua Dong. \
Bdy gid cdc quan vdn vo thudng noi theo dudng ndy lui
tdi trieu can..."). Dpc dddng Tie'n Yet nay, trddc day-m—V
ddng nhieu tram gac kien ed dl bao ve kinh thanh floa
Ld. Cach Thanh Ngoai v& phia Ddng khoang hdn llkig-; '
la thdn Ang Ngu — ndi ma cac quan td khip ndi tron§~ :
nddc v§ day, trddc khi vao kinh dd chau vua, ddng lai de-, '
chuin hi sang sda trieu y. d thdn Ang Ngu cd DClNG' r.
HOA SdN, TU'dNG TRUYEN L A Ndi NUOI, Ab ' "P
CHUA. Cach thdn Arig Ngu hcfn 1 km la Quen Oi -"Ciik
ngd vao kinh do, trddc day rat eao, khd di. Cach Quen di
khoang 1 km la thdn Quan Vinh, cung la mdt tram gac
ldn. Cach thdn Quan Vinh hdn 1 km la DONG THIEN
2-CDHL 17
LA DANG BAT
TON THd MOT VI THIEN THAN CAO N H A T : T R A N
VU THIEN TON. DONG N A M TRONG NUI DUNG
DLfdNG. Khi Dinh Bd Linh dem quan di danh dep cac
sd quan da sda ll vat vao ll tai ddng Thien Tdn eau
mong dddc than giup dd. Sau khi thu phuc dddc dit
nddc va len ngdi Hoang de',Dinh Tien Hoang da tu sda
Jen va ddng, ddng thdi cho xay ddng d day hai khu nha
Tfen Te va Kinh Thien Dai de khach thap phddng ve cd
chd nghi va cung le. Ben canh nui Dung Dddng cdn cd
hai nui da ldn nda la: Nddng Sdn va Tddng Sdn. Ba nui
ldn nay thudc xa Ninh Ml, huyen Hoa Ld nim gan hai
ben dddng Tie'n Yet nhd mdt cdng thanh thien nhien ki
vl an ngd con dddng chinh vao kinh dd Hoa Ld. Td kinh
dd Hoa Ld di ra, bang dddng bd cdn ed eon dddng
Thu'dng Dao ve phia Tay, cd the di vao Thanh Hda va
ngdde len phia Bac dl dang. Dddng thiiy cd sdng Hoang
Long d phia Bac chay ra sdng Day de td dd nhap vao he
thd'ng Nhi Ha, cd the ngdde len mien nui va xudi ra
bien. Chinh bing dddng thuy nay, td dit Trung Qudc
vao sdng Bach Ding, qua sdng Lupe, sdng Dao d Phu Li
(Ha Nam), theo sdng Day, cac sd gia nha Td'ng da de'n
kinh dd Hoa Ldyet kien vua Le Hoan vao nam 990.
Kinh dd Hoa Ld cdn tda ra mdt khdng gian rdng hdn
nda, thdn La Mai, xa Ninh Giang, huyen Hoa Ld, each
nui Dung Dddng khdng xa, xda la ndi vua Dinh dl kho
18 i .n-, o
CO DO HOA LU"
mim, kho mudi. Dl bao ve kinh dd Hoa Ld ve mat dddng
thuy, vua Dinh Tien Hoang cdn cho xay ddn luy tren
NUI NON Nu'dc (NUI DUC THUY), COI NHU" MOT
TIEN DON KIEM S O A T CON Dl/dNG BO TLT TAM
DIEP, CON DUdNG BIEN THEO Cl/A DAI AC DI RA.
(1) Dfeu dd chdng td vua Dinh Tien Hoang rit quan tam
chu y xay ddng kinh thanh va cac phdng tuyen dl bao
ve vdng chac kinh dd eung la bao ve nddc Dai Cd Viet.
Nam 1010 Li Cdng Uin (Li Thai Td) len ngdi vua, lap
ra nha Li. Li Thai Td quyet dinh ddi dd td Hoa Ld de'n
thanh Dai La (Thang Long). Kinh dd Hoa Ld trcf thanh
Cd Dd Hoa Ld, mai mai gin lien vdi giai doan Ijch sd
thd'ng nha't, xay ddng dit nddc Dai Cd Viet ciia dan tdc.
Dl tddng niem cdng lao dat hen mdng xay ddng ddc lap
td chii ciia dat nddc va nhd den kinh dd Hoa Ld eua
nddc Dai Cd Viet, nha Li sau nay da lly ten mdt sd dau,
chua d kinh dd Hoa Ld dat ten cho mdt sd khu vdc d
Thang Long thdi ly nhd: d Cau Den, phd Trang Tfen,
chua Mdt Cdt, ... Didu dd da dddc "Dai Nam nhit thdng
chi" ghi: "Do cil nhd Dinh, nhd Le... Igi co cdc danh
hieii: cau Dong, cdu Ren, cdu Mudng, Trdng Tien, chiia
Thdp, chua Nhdt Tru... nen cd vdn con. Khi Li Thdi To
(1) Dpc "Nui Due Thuy" cua La Dang Bat — NXB The gidi — Ha Ndi — 1 9 9 8 . ' - J i " " I • ' - . ' . - . - ' • ' , ' . • •
19
LA DANG BAT
ddi do den Thdng Long deu diing theo cdc danh hieu
dy" (I) . r ' '^- " , A >L ' .ypn--
Sud't 42 nam tdn tai (968 — 1010) kinh dd Hoa
Ld chu yeu la dai ban doanh ciia hai vi vua kiem
tdng td lenh quan dpi: vua Dinh Tien Hoang va vua
Le Dai Hanh. .OIL H-MI ;•
Cd Dd Hoa Ld sang mai vdi ten tudi Dinh Tien
Hoang va Le Dai Hanh. Dinh Tierk Hoang la ngddi cd
cdng md diu, ngddi khai pha va dat hen mdng cho
kinh dd Hoa Ld — dng td phuc hdng thd'ng nha't
qud'c gia. Le Dai Hanh la ngddi chien diu va bao ve
kinh dd Hoa Ld, eung cd nghia la bao ve hen ddc l^p
td chu cua da't nddc. Hai con ngddi dd da cd cudc ddi
kiet xuit, huy hoang sang chdi, nhd mdt sd bit diu,
mdt sd ke thda de khang dinh, td diim cho Cd Dd
Hoa Ld rdc sang mudn ddi, di vao Ijch sd nhd mdt
ban anh hung ca bit hu.
Chinh vi the, sad nay Bang nhan Vu Duy Thanh
(1807 — 1859), ngddi lang Kim Bdng, phii Yen
Khanh (nay la xa Khanh Hai, huyen Yen Khanh, tinh
Ninh Binh I da viet bai "Phu cd kinh danh thing" ca
ngdi Cd Dd Hoa Ld, trong dd ed doan:
(1) Tap 3 — NXB KHXH — Ha Ndi — 1971 — Trang 249.
20
CO DO HOA LLT
"Dinh do Trdng An; md hen Chinh Thong.
Mot Id tien the ton nghiem; hai Id tien dudng trieu cong.
Nui Md (Md Yen) nghin triing xa ngdt, thdnh ddp dd
. i... cao,
Song Long (Hodng Long) mot ddi trong veo, hdo hdo
cung rong.
Ndo phd tia, ndo tdu son, ndo ddi ldn, ndo gdc phung,
Ndo trudng tap tran, ddnh giac nudc Chiem,
Ndo qudn tien nghi, tiep quan nhd Tdng.
Tren dudng tia trdm quan do hpi, ngua ngUa xe xe,
Dudi cd ddo mUdi dao nghiem binh, chieng chieng,
•>!.T>'f id * .... .rAiri, ...•• i^o^S trong
Xet trong dia dU; dUcfng buoi bdy gid,
Ben Tay niii ngdn nhu mdc; ben Dong bien long
nhu td.
Nam den Chau Hoan, Chdu Ai,
Bde gidp nudc Sd, nudc TU.
Cimg ddng chinh soc, cimg mdi xa thu
Ngdm cdu Nam de Nam cU, khdc hdn nhiing ddi
thdo mupi.
Xem tuang Bde Than, Bac Cuc, cdn ddu bdng xU
• .. • , !. . Hoa Lu.
at
LA DANG BAT
Phong cdnh tot thay, de nhdt Id day. ^ .> .»..%.
Phong Chdu khdn sdnh, Phong Khe ndo tdy. '•\t
Xem nhu dia li hoa do, thay Tdu de kieu,
Rd duac thien nhien hinh thdng, tha too kheo bdy.
• • ' > f • • • - ' !_ '•--•>: w •'•<•-: >?."••>-' ^ i 'V t ' -
Thd rang:
,„ Da trai bao nhieu cuoc be dau, ,
Khien nay con nhd chuyen cof lau. ,
Mot vung sao rang thanh guTcfm bau,
Nam sac may phong bo ao chau.
Cong ca liTu truyen trong tam coi,
Khi thieng phang phat difdri nghin thau.
Trang An mieu cu hiTofng nghi ngiit,
Sung bai ai ai cung cui dau". •'• .::\^': ^ • ' 1 • S ^ n > n ^ < ? - ; * , . f - u ^
' M : ^ ' .- '. « \\K ^ i ^ v n :•'.'•'•. ; • ; .•
.d\ ':..ii\,\ ' ;n:,\ ^n,\A ;\;.j iroV; ,\ . . . . . . . . . . .. ,
l O ' - - - - .ua. ,!iVv . sr,*}"/.
22
CO DO HOA LU
DEN THO VUA DINH TBEN HOANG
Du khach den tham Cd dd Hoa Ld thudc xa Trddng Yen, huyen Hoa Ld, thiy hai ngdi den ed kinh, trang nghiem nim d khu vdc trung tam hda nhap vdi nui sdng ngoan muc, dd la den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang va den thd vua Le Dai Hanh.
Dinh Bd Linh la con dng Dinh Cdng Trd sinh ngay rim thang bai nam Giap Than (924), que d thdn Kim Ld, lang Dai Hdu, chau Dai Hoang (nay la thdn Van Bdng, xa Gia Phddng, huyen Gia Viln, tinh Ninh Binh). Dinh Cdng Trd la mdt tddng cua Dddng Dinh Nghe (thdi Ngd Vddng 939 — 944), lam Thd sd Hoan Chau (nay thudc Nghe An). Khi Dinh Cdng Trd mit, Dinh Bp Linh eung me la Dam Thi (ngddi vd bai cda Dinh Cdng Trd) bd Hoan Chau ve ddng Hoa Ld, nddng than vdi dng chii rudt Dinh Dd.
Tai ddng Hoa Ld (khu Thung Lau - mdt thung lung rdng khoang 16 mau nam trong day nui da vdi thudc xa Gia Hdng, huyen Gia Viln), Dinh Bd Linh cung nhd bao tre nhd khac trong lang que, di kiem cui. chan trau. Khi di chan trau, Dinh Bd Linh dddc tdn lam ngddi ddng dau va cung lu tre lay bdng lau lam ed tap tran. Ldn len, dng td rd la ngddi mdu Iddc eao. cd chi ldn. nen da xay ddng mdt ldc Iddng vu trang manh. dddc nhan dan
23
LA DANG BAT
trong vung theo phue rat ddng. Dinh Bd Linh danh chiem cac vung xung quanh, uy the ngay cang ldn.
Nhdng mudn cd rapt ldc Iddng manh hdn nda, biet Tran Lam (la mdt trong 12 sd quan) d Bd Hai Khiu (Vu Tien, Thai Binh) ed tai thao lu'dc, dung cam, dde dp, Dinh Bd Linh da de'n lien ket.
Tran Lam thiy Dinh Bd Linh la ngddi cd tai nang, hi vpng se lam rang rd cho dat nddc, da nhan lam con nudi va giao quyen binh cho dng cam quan. u BLIV r>fi3
Sau khi Tran Lam mit. Dinh Bd Linh thay the chi huy toan bd sd quan. Nhdng dng thiy vung Bd Hai Khau - vung ddng bing. dia hinh bat ldi, nen quye't dinh bd vung nay, rdi quan ve Hoa Ld - que hddng dng, cd nui non trung diep, sdng nddc khue khuat, ed dia the thuan ldi hdn.
Day eung la ndi r i t thuan ldi ve giao thdng thiiy, bd, cd ddng dddc ve quan sd. Hoa Ld cdn la vung dat mau md, quan si ed thi vda chien diu vda san xuat de tao ngudn Iddng thdc td tuc.
Ve Hoa Ld, sd quan cua Dinh Bd Linh cd dii ba dieu kien: Thien thdi, dia ldi, nhan hda. dng da lan Iddt danh bai cac sd quan khac. Den eudi nam 967, Dinh Bd Linh da dep yen loan 12 sd quan, non sdng ve mdt mdi, dat nddc trd lai thdng nhat.
Nam 968. Dinh Bd Linh len ngdi Hoang de gpi la Dinh Tien Hoang. dat ten nddc la Dai Cd Viet. Neu vua
24
CO DO HOA LU
Hung - thu linh bd lac Van Lang, ddng ra thdng nhit cac bd lac Lac Viet, ddng nen nddc Van Lang, md dau lich sd ddng nddc cua Viet Nam, thi Dinh Tien Hoang la ngddi cd cdng cung ed ddc lap va chu quyen dan tdc, xay ddng qud'c gia phong kien thd'ng nhit dau tien trong Ijch sii" dan tdc. Va eung la fan dau tien. dng da tdn xdng danh hied '"De". d nddc ta, trddc dd da cd hai ngddi xdng "De": Li Nam De (544 — 548). Mai Hie De (722), den Dinh Tien Hoang xdng la "Dai Thing Minh Hoang De", chinh la ngddi toan thing ve vang nhit. Dieu dd cung cd y nghia khang dinh nddc ta cd hen ddc lap td chii va Hoang de nddc Nam phai sanh ngang vdi cac Hoang de phddng Bac. Vi the trong "Lich trieu hien chddng loai chi", Phan Huy Chu (1782 — 1840) viet:
"Xet nudc ta tU thdi Hiing Vucfng mdi bdt dau thong hieu vdi Trung Quoc, nhung danh hieu con nho, khong duac du vdo hdng chu hdu trieu hpi... Rdi Trieu Dd kiem tinh nhd Hdn phong Dd ldm Nam Viet Vucfng chi dupc sdnh vdi chu hdu cua Trung Qudc, chua dUcfc neu Id mot nudc... Den khi Dinh Tien Hodng binh dinh cdc sU qudn, khoi.phuc md mang bd coi. bay gid sdch phong cila Trung Qudc mdi nhan cho dung rieng Id mot nUdc". • i"''
Hai nam sau, nam 970, Dinh Tien Hoang bd nien hieu cua cac Hoang de phong kien phddng Bic, td dat nien hieu rieng la "Thai Binh". Day la Fan diu tien trong lich sd hen phong kien tap quyen. mdt thu linh dia phddng len ngdi vua da vdt bd nien bieu cua "Thien Trfeu",
25
LA DANG BAT
khang dinh thing ldi xu hddng thd'ng nhit qud'c gia, thing ldi eiia tinh than dan tdc va y chi dde lap manh me eda dan tdc ta thdi ly. Vao dem trung thu nam Ki Mao, tdc la dem ngay 9 thang 9 nam 979 Dinh Tien Hoang mat, d ngdi 12 nam, thp 56 tudi. Thdi gian tuy ngan ngiii, nhdng Dinh Tien Hoang da la ngddi kiet xuat cd cdng md dau hen phong kien tap quyen d nddc ta, "tdi ndng, thdng minh han ngUdi, ddng luoc nhdt ddi" (Dai Viet sii ki toan thd).
Dl tddng nhd cdng lao ciia vua Dinh Tien Hoang, nhan dan Hoa Ld da xay ddng den thd dng cf lang Trddng Yen Thddng, nen gpi la Den Thddng.
Den thd vua Dinh Ti&n Hoang d phia Nam den thd vua Le Dai Hanh. Hai ngdi den deu dddc xay ddng td sau khi Li Thai Td ddi dd td Hoa Ld ra Thang Long, tddng truyen, nim tren hen cung dien chinh ciia kinh dd Hoa Ld ngay xda. Hdi ly, hai den deu quay hddng Ble, trdng ra nui Hd, nui Che. Nui Hd d ^ n cau Ddng (nim d phia Nam cau Ddng). Nui Che d phia Ble ciu Ddng, each ciu Ddng khoang 30 met, nim ben Tay sdng Sao Khe. Ndi ed mdt ngpn che ra hddng Ble nen gpi la nui Che. Hai qua nui nay nhd hai con hd phuc chau ve nui Cdt Cd (nim d phia Ddng Bac nui Che). Thdi gian khac nghiet da lam hdhdng hai ngdi den.
I n . - - .--J
Dau the ky XVII, Ll Quan Cdng Bui Thdi Trung, ngddi lang Chi Phong, tdng Trddng Yen, nay la thdn Chi Phong, xa Trddng Yen (la con dng Ml Quan Cdng
26
CO DO HOA LLT
Bui Van Khue), sau khi bo nha Mac theo nha Le (ddi vua Le Kinh Tdng (1600 — 1619), nien hieu Than Dde thd nha't (1600)) (1), da xay ddng lai hai ngdi den nhd cu, nhdng chuyin hddng, quay hddng Ddng. Nam ay Bui Thdi Trung la quan Dd dde Hieu ldc Td ve qimn vu sd bd Ll. Nam Hoang Dinh thd 7 (1606) da ddng bia ghi lai dfeu dd.
Sang ddi vua Le Hi Tdng (1676 — 1705) nien hi§u Vinh Tri thd nhat (1676), nhan dan xa Trddng Yen dai tu lai hai ngdi den. ••,;^ .;,n , - h nki . ij
Ddn nha Nguyin, ddi vua Nguyin Thanh Thai (1889 — 1907), ni§n hieu Thanh Thai thd 10 (1898), dng Ba Kenh tdc Dddng Ddc Vinh (1850 — 1909) (2), ngddi
(1) Bui Thdi Trung la con Mi QuSn Cdng Bui Van Khe va Nguyin Thi Nien Bui Van Khue la dung tudng, nha Mac phong Sdn Quan Cdng. Sau quy thuan nha Le, lap cdng Nha Le phong Bui Van Khuh la Nghia Quan Cdng. phong Biii Thdi Trung la Ll Qukn Cdng, lam tudng dao Sdn Nam, sau di tu. ("Dai nam nhat thd'ng chi" — Tap 3 — NXBKHXH — Ha Ndi — 1971 — Trang 264)
(2) Cu Hau Te la than sinh ra dng Duang Due Vinh. Khi da ngoai 60 tudi, cu Hau Te cd 6 ngudi eon gai. nhung van ehua ed eon trai, n&n phai di le cSu tu d chua Thap (Bao Thien Thap Tu) (trude day o vi tri gan ben dd Trudng Yen - nay khdng cdn i Den nam cu 63 tudi mdi sinh dupe dng Duong Diirc Vinh Gia dinh rat \-ui mirng, nhung sd khd nudi, nen khi sinh ra. dem dng Vinh de o cdng Ho (cdng da each den thd vua Le Dai hanh ve phia B4c hdn 50 met i. sau dd mdi dem ve nha nudi va dat ten la Cdng. Ve sau gpi chech la Kenh Ong Vinh sau nay lam Chanh tdng, dudc nha Nguyen phong tudc Ba, nen ngudi ta quen gpi dng la Ba Kenh. Ong tham gia phong trao Van Than, Giac Phap truy liing dinh bit. nen dng phai xudng Nha thd dii Phat Diem lan trdn. Thdi gian o day da lam dngnay ray dinh tdn tao den thd \aia Dinh Tien Hoang eao len bkng da. Luc da yen dn, dng tro ve lang, khdng lam Chanh tdng niia. ban bac vdi dan Trudng Yen ThUdng tdn cao den Dinh len De thu nghiem, dng lam
zr
LA DANG BAT
Tham den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang, vao cdng cudn pbia Bac gpi la Ngp Mdn Quan (cdng ngoai), du khach nhin thay bd'n chd Han "Bic Mdn Toa Thdde" (Cda Bac khda chat). Qua cdng, quay nhin lai, du khach lai thay bdn chd Han nda la "Tien Trieu Phddng Cac" (Ci a phddng trfeu trddc).
Di thing vao ehinh gida, du khach thay cd sap da nhd, hai ben ed hai con nghe da chau dddc cham khic rat dep bing da xanh nguyen khdi. Tiep dd la Nghi Mdn Ngoai (eda ngoai), ba gian. ddng bing gd lim, IcJp ngdi, Du khach di theo dddng Chinh dao lat gach de'n Nghi Mdn Ndi (ciia trong) cung la ba gian, xay ddng bing gd lim, lap ngdi. Dfeu dpc dao la Nghi Mdn Ndi kien true theo ba bang chan cdt - dang kien true sdm nhit d nddc ta. Bd'n gdc ngoai eua Nghi Mdn Ndi cdn xay bdn cdt tru cao. '"
Vin di theo dddng Chinh dao lat gach, ben tay phai du khach la mot vddn hoa, tiep dd la nam gian nha Vpng - ndi cac cu ban viec te le. d gida vu'dn hoa cd hdn non bd "Hinh nhan bai tddng" (Con ngu'di ngddng vpng) nhd dang mdt cu gia, tdc bac dai bat ve pbia sau, mat dang ngdde len nhd nhin xem trdi dit the nao? Ban tay trai ciia cu dudi ra gid len gan mat, de nhin ddOc rd. Tay phai cu cam gay chd'ng cho vdng ehlc.
Ben tay trai du khach, dang ddi theo dddng Chinh dao cung la mdt vddn hoa, tiep dd la nam gian nha Khai •Thanh - ndi xda kia thd cha me vua Dinh Tien Hoang.
30
CO DO HOA LLT
d giua vddn hoa cung cd mdt hdn non bd l(5n "Cufu long tranh chau" (9 rdng tranh ngpc), cao gin 3 met. Vi la d6n thd vua nen nhan dan tao ddng hdn non bd nay. Ndi ddn vua la ndi ddn Kdng - con vat tddng trdng cho thanh cao, quyen quy. Nhdng day la 9 con rdng (theo quan ni&m ciia dao Phat, sd 9 la txiOng trdng cho vd cung) dang quay quan, quan quyt cung vdn mdt hdn ngpc quy. Chin con rdng bing da td nhien ud'n Iddn rit uyen chuyen, mem mai nhd mdt tac phim dieu khic gd tuy&t xao!
Hai hdn non bd cf hai vddn hoa ciia den, mdt hdn bilu td(Jng cho linh thi§ng, cao quy, mdt hdn la hinh dang mdt con ngddi binh thddng td tin, nhin trdi cao, bieu td(?ng cho khat vpng va sdc manh ciia eon ngddi.
Tiep dau hdi phia Tay nha Khai Thanh (ben tay trai
du khach), la Nha Bia thip (da dddc trung tu lai), du
khach vao phai cui dau, ben trong ddng 3 tim bia da.
Dac biet t im bia cf gida cham khac nam Chinh Hda thd
17 (1696) ghi: "Bai ki bia cdng ddc d mieu Dinh Tien
Hoang trfeu trddc", chan bia cham khac ndi rd con cua
(cf gida), hai ben la hai con chudt. Hai d n g to ldn qua cd
nhd khang dinh sdc manh cua cua trddc hai con chudt.
Du khach qua hai cdt ddng tru cao to nda la de'n san rqng. Tren san rdng ngay trddc gian gida ciia Bai Dddng cd sap Long Sang bang da xanh nguyen khdi rat ddc dao. Day la mdt Long Sang da dep nhat, cd gia tri nhi t cf nddc
31
LA DANG BAT
ta, bdi tai nghe cham khic da dieu luyen cua cac nghe nhan da tao ddng Long Sang.
Long Sang ed hinh khdi hop chd nhat, dai 1,80 met, rong 1,40 met. eao 0,95 met (kl ea be). Chpn dddc nhdng tang da xanh nguyen khdi nang khoang tren 20 tan dda ve day da la mdt ki cdng!
Dfeu ki dieu la khdi da dd lai dddc deo gpt, cham khic lam thanh mot chie'c giddng rdng ngoan muc. Mat Long Sang cham khic ndi mdt con rdng ldn, cd than map, dudi thing, phd vly ddn. Dau rdng nglng cao, hai tum bdm bay ngdde len, cdn hai dai rau lai tha long phia dddi. Ma rdng edn ed hai hang rau trai deu nhd hai canh phdcfng. Con rdng cd dang khde, rau bdm tua tiia, sac nhpn nhd nhdng tia chdp, bilu tddng khat vpng ciia eon ngddi, mudn mda thuan gid hda dl cay cay thuan ldi.
Vao nhdng ngay trdi mda rdi tanh, nhin mat Long Sang bdng nddc, vay rdng lip lanh nhd dat bac. Con rdng nhd dang udn Iddn bdi trong bl nddc in bdng may trdi tuyet dep.
Rdng la con vat linh thieng tddng trdng cho Vua -dang thien td tdi cap dddc cham khac d mat Long Sang. Cdn diem Long Sang lai ddpc cham khic cac eon vat rit binh thddng cua que hxiong sdng d dddi nddc, tren can nhd: tdm^ eua, ea va chudt. Nhdhg con vat nay tddng trdng cho nhan dan. Dieu ddc dao d day la, t i t ca nhdng con vat deu nhd sd'ng hda quyen, cung nhau bdi ldi, nd gidn rat vui ve va thda man. t
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CO DO HOA LLT
Phai chang, nhu'ng nghe si dan gian sang tao ra Long Sang da cd td tddng phdng khoang, dam tinh nhan van?
Hai ben ta hdu cua Long Sang ed hai bang chan cdt bing da de elm bat bilu, vu khi, cd trong nhdng ngay bdi, tddng trdng cho cac thd bac ciia cac quan van vd trong trffeu. Mddi thanh long dao, tdcmg trdng cho mddi dao quan cua Dinh Tien Hoang.
Hai ben Long Sang cdn cd hai eon rdng bang da xanh nguyen khdi tac ban than kilu yen ngaa. r i t cdng phu. Tren minh va phia dddi bung rdng cham khic nhdng net may dao mac vun vut tda ve phia sau, tao cam giae nhd hai con rdng dang mud'n lao ve phia trddc. Canh dd dat hai eon nghe da ngdi chau, cung bing da xanh nguyen khdi. Dau nghe nglng cao, mom ha, nanh nhe, mui hech, tdc xoan, bung thdt lai, nen tdng thd thjt cf hdng ndi rd len. Ve dui hai chan trddc va sau cdn dddc cham khic them vai net may dao vut nhpn. Vi vay nhin hai con nghe thiy rat khde nhdng eung r i t hien td. Dang hinh hai con nghe ngdi ri t gid'ng vdi dang ngdi cua chd da, hd da.trong nghe thuat dieu khic dan gian Viet Nam. '• •-' '.^ '• •' i" ^ :•
hong Sang, rdng da, nghe da nay deu dxxac lam d the ki XVII cung thdi ki Le Quan Cdng Bui Thdi Trung va nhan dan xa Trddng Yen xay ddng lai hai ngdi den Dinh, Le. Dd la nhdng khdi da cd hdn, bay bdng nhd hdn ngddi, ndi len khat vpng ciia con ngddi, thi hien nghe thuat cham khic da tai hoa, tinh xao, dieu luyen cua cac nghe nhan Hoa Ld mang dam dau In phong each dan gian va phong each nghe thuat rua tbdi Hau Le.
T CDHL ^
LA DANG BAT
N h d the Long Sang khdng ddng ddc lap mdt minh, xung quanh cdn cd nhulig dd thd va nhu'ng con vat thd khac. Ta't ca n h d hai hda. bd sung cho nhau. cd cao. cd tha'p, cd khdi h inh manh me, nhdng cung ed nhu'ng dddng net ra't mem mai, uy in ehuyin tao thanh mdt tdng the dieu khic da tdn them ve dep long lay cua Long Sang.
Den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang cd ba tda: Bai Ddd'ng,
Thieu Hddng: va Chinh Cung.
T d san Rdng bddc len eao 0,5m la Bai Dddng, nam gian. Kien true eua Bai Dddng ddc dao, cda lui vao tan hang cdt eai, tao thanh cac mang chdng rddng de cd eac bde dfem cham kh ic t rang tri, ddng thdi lam cho hien cua Bai Dddng rdng them.
Ngim nhin cac bde dfem, du khach se bi cud'n hut bcfi nghe thuat cham kh ic gd d day dat den t r inh dp dieu luyen, phong phu. Cac md tip cham khac gd la: Iddng long chau la de, Iddng long chau nguyet, chim phddng chau mat nguyet, lan chau la de... Mat nguyet co them chd "Van" nha Phat , tioae chd "Ngpc". Chim phddng trdng nhd con sao. Con lan dang n h d nhoai ve phia trddc.
Ngddi nghe nhan da kheo kdt hc/p gida cham ndi va cham long lam eho cac mang cham khic gd rat sinh d()ng. tai hoa.
Cung tai hien eua Bai Dddng. du kharh cdn choang ngap bdi nhdng cdt gd Um cao to cd dudng kinb khoang 0,5 met dddc dat tren nhdng tang d;i cd bdng ldn. Alu'di hai cdt gd lim trdn cua hai hang cdt sdng .sdng du'ng tri-n da rat \Ting chai. be the va hien ngang Dac hipt. nguTyn-
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CO DO HOA LU"
cda cua Bai Dddng dddc lam toan bing da xanh nguyen khdi va cham kbie cac hpa tiet trang tri r i t nghe thuat. Ngddng eda gian gida, cham khac Iddng long chau nguyet, bai gian hai ben cham khie td linh, tiep hai gian nda cham khic sung kiem, cudn thd va but mdc.
Khdng chi d hien Bai Dddng ma trong Bai Dddng, Thieu Hdcmg va Chinh Cung cdng deu cd nhdng cdt lim trdn cao to dat tren cac tang da vudng, ed bdng va deu dddc scfti son thiep vang rdc rd. Mau dd ndi \Sn bilu hien sinh khi ciia con ngddi, tao cam giac linh thi§ng, gdi lai ehdn cung dien xda nguy nga ldng lly vang son.
Dieu ddc dao nda la, ta't cl cac tang da vudng, cd bdng va nhdng phien da xung quanh (J ca ba tda, cung deu dddc cham long, cham ndi nhdng hpa tiet trang tri theo cac de tai quen thudc nhd: Td linh (long, li, quy, phddng), tdquy (thdng, mai, true, cue hoac mai, sen, cue, true), Iddng long chau nguyet, long hi thiiy, long ham thp, tung bac, cud'n thd, kiem sung, hoa la sen... Mdt sd phong canh cua qud hddng Trddng Yen cung dddc cham khic nhd: cau Ddng, cau Ren, chiia Thap, Ghenh Thap...
Phai chang, nhdng ngddi nghe si dan gian tai hoa da tdng lam nen cdng trinh kien true ddc dao ciia dan tdc -Nha thd da Phat Diem, nay lai den day tdn tao den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang? Dddng net cham khic da cua hp tinh vi, mem mai, hoan hao, dep la-thddng, khien du khach phai ngdi ca, than phuc. Se la mdt thieu sdt, neu tham den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang, du khach khdng thddng thdc nghe thuat cham khic gd d hien Bai Dddng va nghe thuat cham khic da tren cac ngu'dng cda da va nhdng tang da c6 bdng.
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LA DANG BAT
Budc vao trong Bai Dddng, nhin len, du khach trdng
t h i y t ren eao d gian gida cd tam bien de ba chd Han ld"n
dddc sdn son thiep vang long lly: "Chinh Thdng Thuy"
(Md hen chinh thd'ng). Hai cot gida cd treo cau ddi:
"Cd Viet qudc dddng Tdng Khai Bao.
'"'^ ' Hoa Ld dd thi Han Trang An"
(Nudc Dgi Co Viet sdnh ngang nien hieu Khai Bdo cua
nhd Tong (Trung Qudc)
Kinh do Hoa Lu nhu kinh dd Trdng An cua nhd Hdn
(Trung Qud'c))
Bai Dddng thd cdng ddng. gian ben tay trai du khach,
dat cai t rdng cd dddng kinh 1,2 met, gian ben tay phai du
khach treo mdt qua chudng. Trong Bai Dddng, d gian gida
cd ddi "xa cd ngdng" rat dep, dl dd mai vda che cac dau
hoanh, la ki lu kien true r i t ddc dao.
Xem xong Bai Dddng, du khach vao Thieu Hddng - kiln
t rue theo kieu nha dng mudng. Trong Thieu Hddng dl cac
nhang an dat cac ngai, bat hddng thd td tru trfeu Dinh
gdm: Dinh Dien, Nguyin Bac, Tr inh Tu, Ldu Cd.
Dfeu dac biet la bdn ngddi nay deu cung que (xa Gia
Phdcfng, huyen Gia Viln) . cung tudi Giap Than (924),
cdng la ban chan trau thud thieu thdi vdi Dinh Bd Linh.
Rieng Nguyin Bac va Dinh Dien da cung Dinh Bd Linh
ket nghia Dao vien (1). Nguyin Bac khi di t ran trau d
Thung Lau (xa Gia Hdng, huyen Gia Viln) hi hd vd, Dinh
(1) Dao vien: Lay diin Luu Bi. Quan Vu va Trupng Phi ddi Tam Qud'c ke't nghia lain anh em o dudi cav dao ... . . .
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CO DO HOA LLT
Bd Linh da dung giao nda dam dudi hd cdu Nguyen Bac (1).
Khi Dinh Bd Linh ddng len dep loan 12 sd quan thi Dinh Dien, Nguyin Bac, Trinh Tu, Ldu Cd theo Dinh Bd Linh dep loan va deu lap cdng ldn, nhat la Dinh Dien va Nguyen Bac.
Nam Tan Mui (971) Dinh Tien Hoang dinh ra giai pham cho cac quan van vd, phong Nguyen Bac lam Dinh Qudc Cdng (tdde cdng, quyen dinh lieu viec nddc) va gid chdc Thai Tl - "ndi thd'ng van cd" (lam cdng viec chdc phan cua Tl tddng - bay gid gpi la Thu tddng); ed Lud Cd lam chdc Si Sd d Dd Hd Phu. Dinh Dien dddc vua Dinh Tien Hoang phong chdc Ngoai Giap, eai quan cdng viec ben ngoai kinb dd. Trinh Td dddc vua Dinh Tien Hoang cd di sd sang nha Tdng (Trung Qudc) nam At Hdi (975).^ ' •"' '^•' •" • ^-^ •
Nguyin Bac, Dinh Dien, Trinh Tu, Ldu Cd da trd thanh cac vi khai qud'c cdng than, td tru cua nha Dinh. Nguyen Bac la de nhat cdng than.
Rieng Nguyen Bac va Dinh Dien cd cudc ddi rit bi trang. Sau khi vua Dinh Tien Hoang va con ca Dinh Lien bi Dd Thich am hai, trieu dinh dda Dinh Toan mdi 6 tudi len lam vua. Le Hoan dang gid chdc Thap Dao Tddng Quan, Dien Tien Chi Huy Sd nam quyen hanh
111 O Nghi Mdn Ndi den Dinh tren qua guuig l)en phai itheo hudng di vao) cd bifc cham trd ghi lai chuyen do Tay phiii Dinh Bd Linh n.'un dudi, tay trai (iam do;ui mia vdt nhpn dam hd.
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LA DANG BAT
trong trieu chinh va td xdng la Phd Vddng. Ngd Le
Hoan se khdng cd ldi cho vua cdn nhd, Dinh Qud'c Cdng
Nguyin Bac va Ngoai Giap Dinh Dien mdi cung nhau
cat quan td Ai Chau (Thanh Hda) chia lam hai dao thiiy,
luc tien ve kinh dd giet Le Hoan, nhdng viec khdng
thanh. Le Hoan da cam quan ra Tay Dd (Thanh Hda)
danh nhau vdi Dinh Dfen va Nguyen Bac, Dinh Dfen bi
chet ngay tai tran, bit dd(Jc Nguyin Bac ddng cui dda ve
kinh dd, kl tdi rang: "Tien De bi ngn, than ngudi deu
cam gian, ngucti Id toi con lgi nhdn hogn ngn md bpi
nghia, khdi binh ldm logn, chUc phdn tdi con nhu the
ddy a?". Sau dd Le Hoan cho chem dau Nguyin Bac. Thi
tb i Nguyin Bac sau dddc dda ve que an tang.
Sii than Ngd Si Lien danh gia cai chdt ciia Dinh Dien
va Nguyen Bac 11: "Viec khdi binh dy khong phdi Id ldm
logn, la mpt ldng phu td hp Dinh, ddnh Hodn khong
duac md chet, cdi chet dy Id ddng chd" (Dai Viet suf ki
toln thd).
d Thieu Hddng cd mdt nhang an r i t dep dddc lam vao the ky XVII. Tren nhang an dl mu "Binh Thien" td(;mg trdng eho vddng niem cua vua Dinh Tien Hoang.
Du khach chu y nhin cac mang van bdng chay dai sud't xa long, thay dan rdng dddc cham khic tia tdt ri t cdng phu. KI thuat cham ndi va cham long eua cac nghe si dan gian tai hoa da lam cho nhdng con rdng nhd dang bay trong may trdi. Dieu dd cung the hien mdt tai nang, sang tao,
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CO DO HOA LLT
thdng minh ciia cac ngh§ si dan gian Viet Nam d thd ki XVII trong nghe thuat cham khle gd.
Di hdt tda Thi§u Hddng, du khach bddc vao Chinh Cung nam gian, cung cd cac ngddng ciia da. Gian gida Chinh Cung thd tddng vua Dinh Tien Hoang bang ddng nhdng dddc sdn son thiep ving, dau dpi mu Binh Thien, mac ao Long Cdn, ngdi trong ngai, dat tren sap rdng da, dang r i t uy nghi, dddng b§ (1).
Hai ben sap rdng da (be thd bang da xanh nguyen khdi) dl tddng vua Dinh Tien Hoang, cd hai con rdng chau bing da ban than, tac theo kilu yen ngda gidng nhd hai con rdng chdu b&n Long Sang d ngoai san rdng. Nhdng hai con rdng nay lai dep hdn nhieu, cd nhdng net r i t dpc dao. Dddi bung con rdng da ben phai tddng vua Dinh Tien Hoang, tac them con ca chep dang bu rdng. Nhd the con rdng nay la rdng cai, cdn bilu td(Jng cho tich "Ca hda long" (ca chep hda rdng). Cd den ngay 8 thang 4 (am lich) hang nam, ca chep lai vddt vu mdn dl hda rdng:
"Mong bon cd di dn the, . , 7 M , _ . i . . . • • • < , •
Mong tdm cd ve cd vUdt vu. mon" ,,, ' /
• (Cd dao)
Dddi bung con rdng ben trai tddng vua Dinh Tien Hoang lai cd con ca trim dang ddp con tdm, nom rit ngd nghinh. Phai chang, cac nghe si dan gian mud'n thi hien sd hda quyen gida eon vat linh thieng vdi nhdng con vat
(1) Tuong do eu HSu Tfe t h ^ sinh ra dng Dudng Diie Vinh due bing ddng.
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LA DANG BAT
binh thu'dng nhd da cd d Long Sang da ngoai san rdng. Hai con rdng dat trong Chinh Cung. dddc che mda nlng. khdng bi phong hda. nen nhu'ng net cham khic cdn nguyen ven, rd den tdng chi tie't nhd nhit . Rau va bdm rdng Iddn mem mai trdng r i t hoan hao.
Gian ben phai tddng vua Dinh Tien Hoang thd tddng Dinh Hang Lang (ngoai), Dinh De Toan (trong) deu quay mat ve phia Bac la hai con thd cua vua Dinh Tien Hoang.
Dinh Hang Lang du'de vua Dinh Tien Hoang rat yeu quy, nen mac du la con thd van dd(Jc lap lam Thai Tii' nam Mau Dan (978). Den nam Ki Mao (979) Dinh Liln da eho ngddi ngam giet Dinh Hang Lang.
Dinh De Toan la con thd ba va la ddi vua thd hai ciia nha Dinh (Phe de), sinh nam Giap Tuat (974).
Nam 978 vua Dinh Tien Hoang phong Dinh Toan la Ve Vddng. Sau khi vua Dinh Tien Hoang va Dinh Lien bi Dd Thich am hai, Nguyen Bac va Le Hoan dda Dinh Toan len lam vua td thang 11 nam 979. Dinh Toan cdn nhd, chda lanh dao dddc trieu chinh, nen den thang 7 nam 980 Le Hoan len lam vua. Dinh Toan bi giang xudng lam Ve Vu'dng. Nam Tan Sdu (1001), Dinh Toan theo vua Le Dai Hanh di dep loan d Cd Long (Thanh Hda) trung phai ten ddc cua giac, chet luc mdi 27 tudi.
Gian ben trai tddng vua Dinh Tien Hoang thd tddng Dinh Lien quay mat ve phia Nam la con trddng eua vua Dinh Tien Hoang. Khi cdn ban vi, Dinh Liln da cung Dinh Bp Linh tham gia dep loan 12 sd quan, ed nhieu cdng lao. Dinh Lien da thay than phii sang tien cdng ben Hau Ngd
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CO DO HOA LLT
Vdcfng, da tdng bi Nam Tan Vu'dng va Thien Sach Vddng bat treo ngu'dc tren canh cay. • Sau khi len ngdi. den nam Ki Ti (969) vua Dinh Tien Hoang phong Dinh Liln lam Nam Viet Vddng. Nam Nham Than (972) wia Dinh Tien Hoang sai Dinh Liln di sd sang nha Tdng (Trung Qudc). Nam sau (973) Dinh Liln di sd ve, nha Tdng sai sd sang nddc Dai Cd Viet phong cho Dinh Lien lam Kiem Hieu Thai Sd Tinh Hai Quan Tiet Dp Sd An Nam Dd Hd. Dinh Liln td(Jng ring minb cd nhieu cdng \&n than phu se phong cho lam Thai Td. Nhdng vi vua Dinh Tien Hoang qua yeu quy con nhd la Hang Lang nen da lap Hang Lang lam Thai Td. Vi the Dinh Lien khdng bing ldng, nen den miia xuan nam 979 da cho ngddi n ^ m giet em la Dinh Hang Lang. Den thang 10 nam dd Dinh Lien da bi Dd Thich giet cung vdi vua cha.
(Sau khi giet em, Dinh Lien rat an ban. nen da lap 100 tda kinh Phat bing da d canh kinh dd, tren bd sdng Hoang Long, de cau cho linh hdn Dinh Hang Lang dddc sieu thoat). ;."-
Cac txiOng nay deu tac bang gd mit ddpc sdn son thiep vang dat tren cac be da xanh nguyen khdi.
Tddng truyen, ngay xda d dddi tddng vua Dinh Tien Hoang cdn cd tddng Dd Thich rit nho bing gd.
"Miia dong, thdng 10, Ki Mao 1979), Chi Hau Npi Nhan la Dd Thich giet vua d sdn cung dinh. Bpn Dinh Qudc Cong Ngiiyhi Bgc bdt Do Thich giet. TrUdc ddy, Do Thich lam Dong quan Igi. dem ndm O tren ivn. chgt Ihdy sao sa vdo mom, cho Id diem tdt, mdi manh tdm giet vua. Den
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LA DANG BAT
ddy, nhdn lua dn yen ban dem. say ndm d trong sdn. Thich ben giet, lgi giet ca Nam Viet Vi/ctng Lien. Khi dy vice bdt hung thu rat nggt. Thich trdn d tren mdng nUdc trong cung, qua ba ngdy khdi qud, gap trdi mUa lay tay hiing nudc. mUa udng. Bpn cung nU thdy vay mdi bdo vdi Dinh Quoc Cong Nguyen Bgc. Bgc sai ngUdi bdt dem chem, dap ndt xUdng vd bdm thit ra tirng manh... "(Dgi Viet sU ki toan thu) (1).
Cdn theo truyen thuyet dan gian thi ke: Dd Thich d trong trieu la quan ndi giam. Mdt dem bin md thiy sao rdi vao mom eho la minh se len lam vua, ben cho thudc dpc vao ldng l(?n. tie't canh dl eho vua an, ngd ddc chet. Vi the trong cac le vat cung te vua Dinh Tien Hoang d den khdng bao gid ed mdn long lOn va tiet c^nb. (2)
(1) Tap 1 - NXB KHXH - Ha Ndi — 1972 — Trang 168. (2) Dl giai thich thdi gian d ngdi cua Nha Dinh ng4n ngui, chi dupc 13
nam, dan gian cdn luu truyen mdt truyen thuyet sau: Mdt hdm, me Dinh Bp Linh ra sdng tam. gap mdt con rai ca. Khi ve. ba cd thai sinh ra dng. Sau dd it lau, ngudi ta bat dudc con rai ca ay. dem giet lay thit an. xUang dupc vut vao mdt bui ram. Me Dinh Bd Linh thudng tinh. dpi den dem len ra bui ram. nhat het xUdng eua con rai ca bd vao mdt cai mo cau rdi dem giau tren gae bip. Thdi gian trdi qua, Dinh Bd Linh ldn len trd thanh chu be cd tai bdi lan nhu rai ea, cd the lan rat lau dudi day sau dl bat ca va ba ba. Mdt hdm, cd mot thay dia li ngudi Tau den vung nay dl tham dd dat dai. Di theo sdng Dai Hoang, lao gap mdt \-uc nude xoay rat manh 'Vi la mdt nha phong thuy nen lao tiiet ngay o day cd huyet de vuong, lien gpi bpn tre chan trau dang chdi dua gan do hoi: "Cd chu nao lan dupe xudng day \T.rc nudc. xem cd gi khdng l&n kl lai, ta se thudng tien cho" Bpn tre lae dau le ludi Rieng Dinh Bp Linh ciing d trong dam tre trau nhan ldi Dinh Bp Linh hup mot hdi lan xud'ng tdi day VUc va rat ngac nhien thay cd mdt con rdng da mom dang ha to nhu chuc nudt nhung ai den gan nd. Dinh Bd Linh vdi nhoai ngudi len bd ke lai cho thay dia li nghe. Lao mimg rd thudng tien eho Dinh Bd Linh va hen 10 ngay sau se trd lai nhd Dinh Bd Linh lan xudng
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CO 00 HOA LU
Vl ed tdi gidt vua, nen hang nam, cd de'n ngay td vua Dinh Tifen Hoang, dan lang lai dem tddng Dd Thfch ra danh ba roi hay "khao ba vd" de ran day nhdng ke cd tdi. Hien nay, td(;mg Dd Thich da khdng cdn nda, vi b | danh nhfeu ran ndn vd.
Trong Chinh Cung cd cau dd'i ca ngdi sd nghiep thdng nhit ciia vua Dinh Ti6n Hoang:
"Nga Nam dd thd'ng de nhi t ki.
Trddng Yen mieu mao van nien thu"
(Nudc Nam thdng nhdt ki thd nhdt. TrUdng Yen den mieu muon ngdn ndm).
mdt Ian nOca. Y hen, dung 10 ngay sau, lao din, mang theo mdt cai bpe budc r^t chat va nang, bao Dinh Bd Linh: "Hay lan xud'ng chd cu, diit cai bpe nay vao mi&ng eon rdng da rdi Ifen ngay, ta se thudng eho 10 nen bac". Dinh Bd Linh lan xud'ng va nan cai bpe, hiiu ngay d&y la hai cdt cua bd'-lao ta dem tang vao mi&ng rdng da, ben lifeng cai bpe dd ra day sdng, sau dd len bd tra ldi da lam xong vi&c. Lao ta cdn hdi th&m; "Eong da cd ngSm mi^ng lai khdng?" Dinh Bd Linh thdng minh tra ldi ludn: "Kdng da ng^m mi&ng lai ngay". Thi la lao thudng 10 nen bac eho Dinh Bd Linh rdi hi himg ra ve, dinh ninh la minh se dUdc l&n lam vua. Dinh Bd Linh chay v& nha hoi me: "Me di! Md bd' con d d^u?" Bi hdi bSt ngd, ba me Dinh Bd Linh buc minh gat: "0 trdn gac bIp ay!". Dinh Bd Linh vao gac bep tim thSiy mdt bpe gdi bang mo cau, dm chay ra chd vUc xoay, lan xud'ng bd ludn vao midng rdng da. Qua nhi&n mieng rdng da ng2tm lai ngay. Thay dia li Tau vd nudc, xem phong thuy thSiy huy&t dl vUdng khdng phat vd minh ma lai iing vao chu be dd, ndn lai sang nude ta tim Dinh Bd Linh bao: "Nay mai chu se ldn lam vua. Nhung mudn cho vung bdn l^u dai, chu hay dem hai thanh gUdm nay dl ldn co con rdng da dd". Dinh Bd Linh tudng th^t c ^ hai thanh gUdm da budc vao nhau, lan xudng dat ldn cd rdng da. 'Y dd tham hiiu cua thay dia li Tau la khi nude chay hai thsuih gUdm se cp xat vao cd rdng da, mdt thdi gian sau cd rdng da gay, nhu th i Dinh Bd Linh ldn ngdi vua se khdng dudc l^u. DSy chi la cau chuydn dim gian mang mau s4e hoang dudng dl giai thich hidn tuong Dinh Bo Linh d ngdi vua ngan ngili ma thdi.
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LA DANG BAT
Khu vuc den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang cdn cd cac cay dai thu. cay an qua, cay canh. cay boa dan xen, hda quyen. bd sung cho nhau, tao nen sd he the, hoanh trang, tdn n g h i e m . ( 1 ) . • . • ' •.>. , ,w- j - h r:'.-,,f^ A n i>r.> , - -r-;!-. nvM
Tham den thd vaia Dinh Tien Hoang. Tham boa Vu Pham Ham da xuc cam viet bai thd : "Den vua Dinh Tien Hoing" nhd sau:
"Thdo mupi thien sinh Thdnh, Hoa Lu de tdc bang. Co khai Dgi Co Viet, Thdng tiep co Hong Bdng. The van chung tu nhdt,
; ';' Thdn uy cdnh tuyet soang. ,.:' Thdi Binh nghi ve tgi,
-' ' ' Lo dich mdn Thu giang". Dich thd:
3 "Bai CO trcfi sinh giang, Thanh Hoa chua mof mang. Dap xay nen Co Viet, Noi doi ho Kong Bang.
-• The van khong thay doi, .-„•. Than uy mdfi ro rang.
Thai Binh nghi ve do. Lau lach khiip Thu giang".
(Song An Dudng Dinh Thac dich)
(1) Co tham khao bai "Den vua Dinh" cua Nguyen Van Trd in trong sach "Danh than-j Ninh Binh " - Tap 1 — So Van hda — Thdng tin va The thao Ninh Binh — 199.3. , .,
44
CO DO HOA LLT
V
DEN THO VUA LE DAI HANH en
Le Dai Hanh (Le Hoan) la ngddi Ai Chau (Thanh Hda) (1) sinh ngay rim thang bay nam Tan SuU (941), cha ten la Le Mich, me ten la Dang Thi. Ong md edi cha me td khi cdn nhd, Ldn len, khi Dinh Bd Linh ddng len dep loan 12 sd quan, dng ve Hoa Ld (Ninh Binh) theo Dinh Bd Linh, Nhd cd tai thao Iddc, dung cam vd song, luc dau dng chi trdng coi 2.000 binh si. sau dddc Dinh Bd Linh tin dung thang dan den chdc Thap Dao Tddng Quan.
Sau khi Dinh Tien Hoang mat, trieu dinh dda Ve Vddng Dinh Tue (Dinh Toan) len lam vua, luc nay Le Hoan dddc trieu dinh cd lam Nhiep chinh. Ong la ngddi dieu banh viec nddc khdn kheo, bet sdc gid vdng trfeu chinh trong luc hilm nguy.
Khi quan nha Tdng lam le thdn tinh nddc Dai Cd Viet, dddc Thai hau Dddng Van Nga trao ngdi bau, lay ao Long Cdn (2) (ao ll theu rdng cua vua) khoac len minb, Le Hoan da len ngdi vua nam 980, khi dd dng 40 tudi.
111 Theo "Dai Vidt sU ki toan thu" va theo Ngd Thi Si vdi (juyen "Viet sU tidu an" thi cho rhng Ld Hoan la ngudi .\i Chau Theo "Dai Viet J;U lufic" chep Le Hoiui la ngxrdi Trudng Chau Cd y kiln eho rang !> Hoan que a lang Bao Thai, huyen Th;mh Liem. Ha Nam
l2l Long la rdng Con la ao Id cua vua, LxJng Cdn la ao le theu loii-j cua \Tja.
45
LA DANG BAT
Dau nam Tan Ti (981). Le Dai Hanh trdc tiep cam quan chi huy danh giac Td'ng d Tay Ket, sdng Bach Ding, Chi Lang dda dit nddc trd lai binh yen, trd dddc hilm hpa cua giac ngoai xam. Ong la mot nha quan sd ldi lac, "bgc anh hiing nhdt ddi" (Dai Viet sd ki toan thd).
Nam Nham Ngp (982) khdng sd di nghi, theo tieng gpi eua con tim. Le Dai Hanh quyet dinh lap Hoang Thai Hau nha Dinh la Dddng Van Nga lam Hoing Hau.
Cung nam dd, Le Dai Hanh than chinh di danh quan Chiem Thanh xam pham bd cdi phia Nam "chem duac vua Chiem Id Be Mi Thue" (Dai Viet sd Iddc). Nhd the td mua xuan nam 981 den nam 982, ehi trong vdng hdn mdt nam, Le Dai Hanh da danh thing hai nddc: phia Ble pha Td'ng. phia Nam binh Chiem, ghi mdt mdc son bao ve ddc lap va chu quyen eua nddc Dai Cd Viet d the ki X.
Nam 984, vua Le Dai Hanh cho xay ddng them nhieu eung dien nguy nga, long lay, lam cho kinh dd Hoa Ld ngay cang hoan chinh hdn. Den nam 993, nha Tdng sic phong cho vua Le Dai Hanh lam Giao Chi Quan Vddng, nam 997 lai phong lam Nam Binh Vddng.
Den thang 3 nam At Ti (1005) vua Le Dai Hanh qua ddi tai kinh do Hoa Ld, d ngdi dddc 25 nam, thp 64 tudi.
Sau khi Li Thai Td ddi dd td Hoa Ld ra Thang Long, nhan' dan da xay ddng den thd vua Le Dai Hanh cung vdi den thd \-oa Dinh Tien Hoang de tddng nhd cdng lao
46
CO DO HOA LLT
Ddn thd vua Le Dai Hanh xay ddng d lang Trddng Yen Ha, nen gpi la "Den Ha", each den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang ve phia Ble khoang 300 met. Trddc mat den ed nui Den lam an.
Den thd vua Le Dai Hanh, nhin chung ed kien tnic ^ n gid'ng nhd d&n thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang, eung xay ddng theo kilu "Ndi cdng ngoai qudc", chi ed khac la di vao den cheo cdng phia Ddng, cd them Td Vu, khdng cd ngddng ciifa da va nhdng tang da cd bdng tdn cao len nhd den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang. Chinh vi vay* den thd vua Le Dai Hanh cdn gid nguyen dddc ldi kidn tnic va dieu khic d thdi ki Hau Le. ., • •• •_ ,; ., .4 '
Td hddng Ddng, du khach di thing vao den thd vua Le Dai Hanh, thiy mdt sap da nhd, sat ngay dd la Nghi Mdn Ngoai (cda ngoai), ba gian. Qua Nghi Mdn Ngoai, di tbeo dddng Chinh dao lat gach, phia ben tay trai du khach la Td Vu cua lang Trddng Yen Ha thd Khdng Td. Trddc Td Vu la Tien Bai. Trddc Tien Bai cd hdn non bd ldn bing ca mdt tang da lien, mang the "PhdcJng vu" (phddng mda), cao 3 met. Cd lc. hdn non bd nay dddc tao ddng td sau khi tddng Thai hau Dddng Van Nga d den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang dddc dda sang den thd vua Le Dai Hanh vao thdi Hau Le de lam ndi rd ndi thd Thai Hau Dddng van Nga. ^,, . . .: .,.:;,) m,
Hdn non bp tddng hinh chim phddng mun. md quay vao don. hai canh nhd dang hay. An trong the nui ly, con CO bmh td linh": long. li. (iiiy, phdon::. "Con chim
47
LA DANG BAT
phddng" khdng fd da dau tren minh Con rua ldn. dau rua
quay vao nha Tien Bai. cd du cac chan va dudi. Nap dddi
con phddng mua la mdt con lan nho. Nhin mdt gdc than
nui se thay dang mdt con rdng dang udn Idpli. The nui
"Td linh"" thdd"ng chi cd d den thd vua.
Ben tay phai nha Tfen Bai cua '"rd Vd, d mat tien, cdn'
dat hdn non bp "Hd phuc " gan gdc cay dudi than to, ed 9
mui, da cd tudi thp tren 300 nam. Ben trai nha Tien Bai
la hdn non bd cd dang "Voi quy", dddc kh le hai chd
Han: "Bat di". Voi quy, hd phuc la bieu tddng trddc
t h a n h than, ai cung phai quy phuc tdn nghiem.
Hai hdn non bp nay deu cd chieu eao tren mdt met,
bang da xanh nguyen khdi tu" nhien, khdng cd tac ddng
va sd gia «5ng, deo gpt cua nghe nhan. Dieu ki dieu eiia
cac h.nn non bd la d chd dd. Thien nhien deo gpt, con
ngu'di pluit hien ra de sd dung.
Tbeo true du'd'ng Chinh dao, ddi xu"ng vdi Td Vu, ben
tay phai du khacli la mdt hd nu'dc rdng. Du khach qua
Nghi Mdn Ndi (cda trong), cdng ba gian, theo dddng
Chinh dao. kien true dang dd'i la hai vu'dn boa. sau dd la
bai day nha \'()ng (no'i xda kia i. ac cu ban viec te le). mdi
day ba gian. Cf giua \'u"nn hoa ben tay phai du khach c6
hdn non bo [-"hdong a'p". ()' giu'a vu'dn hoa ben tay trai
du khach i:: hui non bo "Long Ma" (minh ngxi'a. dtiu
rdng). • _, • : ,„,,^,-: T a .c. -. •n^.i j.u<^r •• m n .,ni!
Di qua hai cot t r u ca" !•' I.'i I'l'i san rdng. S;it vc'Jl "6c
phia Bai \.\ [ihi.-i .Xam cuu .-:;ih c IIL; IM iiai nha liin. TI-(IM<'
48
CO DO HOA LLT
bai nha bia, dat cac bia da cham khle rat tinh xao ghi cdng lao cua nhdng ngddi cd cdng xay ddng den.
O san rdng, ^ n gian gida ciia Bai Dddng, cung cd Long Sang da nhdng khdng dep bing Long Sang da d den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang. Hai ben sap Long Sang cung cd cac hang chan cdt da dl elm cd, bat bilu, vu khi trong cac ngay hdi, tddng trdng eho nhdng thd bac ciia cic quan van vd.
Den thd vua Le Dai Hanh cung cd ba tda: Bai Dddng, Thieu Hddng, Chinh Cung. Tit cl cac xa, cdt eung dddc sdn son thiep vang. Den thd vua Le Dai Hanh thip, cd nhfeu bde dai td s(Jn son thiep vang, nen tao cam giac trang le h(Jn, tdi hdn, mang tinh chit huyen lo hdn.
Bai Dddng den thd vua Le Dai Hanh eung nam gian, hang cda cung lui vao hang cdt cai nhd den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang. Mddi bai cdt gd lim cua hai hang cdt cung cao to sdng sdng. Hien cua Bai Dddng cung rdng nhd d den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang. Dieu ddc dao d day la tren gian ciifa gida cd treo bde hoanh phi, trong dd cd nhdng ddng chd Han:
"Nhat mong lien hoa sinh, ' '""' ' " ' , • ' ^ ^ . . , ;d
Vgn co luu huang Trdng Xudn dien.
Bdn dg Hodng Long ung,
uc nien di dnh Dgi Van ldu".
Nghia la: "Nhdn md thdy hoa sen md sinh ra Le Hodn. Tir vgn co tieng thdm con lUu rndi tren dien
4 - CDHL 49
LA DANG BAT
Trudng Xudn. Nua dem rong vdng xudt hien. Ngdn ndm
hinh dnh cu con luu lgi d tren lau Dgi Vdn".
Bde hoanh phi nay mudn gdi cho du khach nhd den
t ruyen thuyet ba me Le Hoan nhan md th iy hoa sen ma
s inh ra dng, ddng tbdi cung k h I n g dinh cdng lao ciia Le
Hoan da xay ddng nhieu cung dien nguy nga, trong dd
CO dien Trddng Ximn va lau Dai Van. • -••
Cung n h d d den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang, du khach
nen ddng chan d hien Bai Dddng d l ng im nhin cac bde
edn, dfem, xa, biy, chdng rddng...
Cac mang chdng rddng (each xay ddng b ing gd cd he
thdng dat n h d n g doan gd chdng len nhau tren cau dau
ket thanh vi dl ganh hoanh mai) d day r i t dep, la sd hdi
tu cua nghe thuat cham kh le gd. Dac biet sau chiec biy
cham kh le n h d sau con rdng dang vddn len cung vdi cac
mang cham a xa ngang tao thanh eac the: rdng hd gap
nhau, rdng phun Ida, rdng ngam ngpc. Cd vien ngpc
dddc cham kh le thanh mdt bdng hoa cue. Ngoai ra d cac
mang t rang tri khac cung cham khle rdng: hai rdng
chai^ ngam ngpc, dan rdng, rdng chau... Cac con rdng
dddc cham long, rau tdc tua tua, nhpn sic. Dddng net
cham gd dat den t r inh dp dieu luyen, tia tdt, cdng phu.
Dieu dac biet d hien Bai Dddng la chu yeu cham khic
n h d n g hinh tddng cac cay va con vat gan lien vdi eac
truyen thuyet ve vua Le Dai Hanh. • • =
Ao sen dddc cham kh le ba Fan trong cac tru diu: mdt
ao sen khdng cd ea, mdt ao sen cd ca rd dang nhay l&n
50 JHQO -
CO DO HOA LLT
ddp la sen va mdt ao sen cd ca rd dang bdi. Ba mang cham khac ao sen nay la ba canh ao sen khac nhau, sdng ddng, dep tuyet vdi.
Con hd dddc cham khle 9 fan. Ba con d td the ngdi, trong dd cd hai con ngdi chau dau vao nhau. Sau con ho cham khac d td the dang di, ed con nhd dang nd rdn vdi rdng. cay tnic dddc cham khac 2 Tan, nhdng la cinh "tnic hda long", than la tnic, ngpn la dau rdng.
Truyen thuydt ke ring, ba me Le Hoan "Lue mdi mang thai ndm mong thdy ncfi bung mpe ten cay hoa sen, chdc lot thi kit trdi. Bd hdi dem chia cho mpi ngudi ciing dn" (Dai Viet sd Iddc). Den khi ba me Le Hoan di cay d canh mdt ao sen thi sinh ra Le Hoan. Ba dem li Le Hoan trong mdt khdm tnic va dddc mdt con hd den Ip u bao ve. Thay the, ba phai cau xin hd, hd mdi ldng thdng bd di. Khi dd, ba mdi den be Im Le Hoan ve nha dddc.
Ngoai cac mang cham khle tren, d hien Bai Dddng cdn cham khle de tai: "ca hda long", nhdng ca chep lai dd(Jc cham khle thanh ca rd.- Diu ca bien thanh dau rdng, edn than la than ca rd. Dfeu dd gdi eho du khach nhd den cau ca dao ldu truyen d Trddng Yen:
"Di thi nhd cdu ciing co,
Khi lie lgi nhd cd ro tdng TrUdng (Trudng Yen)"
Ve nghe thuat cham khic gd, hien Bai Dddng d den Le dep bdn nhfeu so vdi hien Bai Dddng d den Dinh.
51
LA DANG BAT
Hau nhd t i t ea cac xa, diu tru, bay, diem, cdn deu dddc
cham khic. tj (*'>gm ' ' ' ' Thddng thdc nghe thuat cham khle gd d hien Bai
Dddng xong, du khach hay bddc vao trong Bai Dddng, thiy cd ba t im bien ldn sdn son thiep vang. Tim biin d gian gida de bd'n chd IMn: "Trddng Xuan Linh Tich" (Diu tich dien Trddng Ximn). Tim biin gian ben phai de ba chd Han: "Dddng Than Vu" (Bilu dddng than vu). Tim biin gian ben trai de ba chd Han: "Xuit Thanh Minh" (Xuit hien bac thanh minh). Trong Bai Dddng cd cac cau dd'i c:a ngdi vua Le Dai Hanh:
- "Th"an vu thiep td lan, thinh Tdng, eddng Chiem thii nhat.
Tinh linh tdn thi§n c6. Long giang, Ma true chi gian".
(Thdn vu. dpng bdn ben, trong luc Tong cUdng, Chiem thinh.
Thieng lieng con muon thud, trong viing song Long (Hodng Long), nui Md (Md Yen)).
- "Thuy van cam vu Thien hdu ngddng.
Tac tinh canh dien De ldc chi".
(Mdy Idnh mUa ngpt an Tien De,
Ddo gieng vd edy rupng la sUc ciia Nhd vug) (1)
Nhin len gian gida trong Bai Dddng du khach cdn
thiy ddi "xa nga voi" rat dep vda dd mai vda che cac dau
(1) Nam Dinh Hoi (987) vua Ld Dai Hanh da bat dau cay rudng tich didn. Day la rudng danh ridng cho nha vua di cay dku xukn.
52
CO DO HOA LLT
hoanh nhd d den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang. Bd'n dau dd d trong Bai Dddng cung dddc cham khic thanh bdn dau rdng. Bai Dddng thd cdng ddng.
Tiep theo Bai Dddng la Thieu Hddng - kien true theo kilu dng mudng (gida dat nhang an thd, hai ben ed ldi di hep ndi Bai Dddng vdi Hau Cung). Trong Thieu Hddng thd td tru trieu Tien Le: Pham Cd Lddng, Li Cdng Uin... (J day cam bat bilu thd va cung cd mdt nhang an kha dep.
Pham Cd Lddng qu& cf Nam Sach (Hai Dddng) la em ruot tddng quan Pham Hap. Ddi Dinh, Pham Cd Lddng la mot danh tddng, cdn Pham Hap gid chdc Ve Uy Tddng Quan. (Pham Hap da cung Dinh Dfen, Nguyin Bac dem quan danh Le Hoan. Le Hoan da bit dddc Pham Hap dda ve kinh dd chem dau). Pham Cd hxxang la ngddi da cd cdng ldn trong viec dda L& Hoan len lam vua.
Nam Canh Thin (980), nha Tdng sai Thai Thddng Bac Si la Hau Nhan Bio sang xam \\iac nddc ta. Ddng trddc tinh hinh dd, Thai hau Dddng Van Nga da cii Pham Cd Lddng lam Dai tddng qu^n dl lanh dao qimn si chdng quan xam Iddc nha Td'ng. "Ngdy xudt qudn, Phgm Cu Luang vdo thdng trong dien bdo vua rdng: "Nay Chua thuang con nho dgi chUa hieu biet duac sU sieng ndng, khd nhpc cua bpn chung toi. Neu nhu cd mpt thudc tdc cong lao ndo thi roi ai biet cho. Khdng bang cdi cdch la trudc dua Thgp Dgo Tudng Qudn len ngoi Thien Tu roi sau mdi ra qudn". Qudn si nghe vay deu hd "Vgn tue".
LA DANG BAT
Thai hdu thdy tinh nguifi vui thudn mdi sai lay do Long Con khoac len minh Le Hodn vd xin ngdi len ngoi" (\)
Td dd Pham Cd Lddng dd'c long tdn phu, sat canh cung Le Hoan chien diu chd'ng quan xam Iddc Tdng, lap nhieu chien cdng hiin hach, trd thanh vi tddng tai gioi, dddc vua Le Dai Hanh phong den chdc Thai Uy.
Li Cdng Uan que cf lang Dinh Bang, huyen Td Sdn, tinh Bic Ninh. Ong lam quan a ddi vua Le Trung Tdng (1005). Khi vua Le Trung Tdng bi Le Long Dinh giet dl eddp ngdi, mpi ngddi deu xa lanh, duy ehi cd minh dng da dm xac vua Le Trung Tdng khdc. Chinh vi the vua Le Long Dinh khen la ngddi trung nghia, cho dng lam tdi chiic Ta Than Ve Dien Tien Chi Huy Sd (chdc quan coi viec cf cung ca'm, kiem cac ban trdc didn tidn).
Nam 1009, Le Long Dinh mit, Li Cdng Uan dddc Dao Cam Mdc cung cac quan trong trieu lap lam vua. Li Cdng Uan len ngdi vua nam 1010, lap ra nha Li. Thiy kinh dd Hoa Ld chat hep, Li Thai Td (1010 — 1028) da quyet dinh rdi dd td Hoa Ld ra thanh Dai La (Thang Long — Ha Ndi ngay nay). • ifiO nxfii Sfn>liiJ V >
Cung d trong Thieu Hddng du khach hay chu y ngim nhin hai bde me d eudi. Hai bde me nay deu dddc cham .khic cac con rdng qiiln nhau, cd ca rdng me va rdng con.
(1) "Dai Vidt su lUdc" — NXB Thanh phd Hd Chi Minh — 1993 — Trang 9'7, 98
54
CO DO HOA LLT
Ndi vdi Thieu Hddng la Chinh Cung. nam gian. Gian gida cua Chinh Cung, tren be da dat tddng vua Le Dai Hanh ngdi trong ngai vang, dau dpi mu Binh Thien, net mat quic thdde. Gian ben trai tddng vua Le Dai Hanh la tddng Hoang hau Dddng Van Nga, cdn gpi la tddng "Bao Quang Hoang Thai Hau".
Dddng van Nga la mdt ngddi phu nd cd hai ddi chdng va ca hai ddi chdng, ba deu lam Hoang hau. Ba la vd ciia Dinh Tien Hoang. Sau khi nha Dinh chim ddt vai trd lich sd, Le Hoan len lam vua, dng da quyet dinh lap Dddng van Nga lam Hoang hau vao nam 982. - - •
Ba da tdng gid eddng vi chip chinh trong 8 thang, td thang 11 nam 979 den thang 7 nam 980 do Dinh Toan cdn nhd, chda lanh dao dddc trieu chinh. Vdi eddng vi chip chinh, nim ehlc uy quyen, ba da dieu khiln cdng viec eua trieu dinh dl gid vdng ngdi bau cho nha Dinh. Ba khdng chinh thdc lam vua, nhdng thdc sd da dieu hanh viec nddc nhd mdt dng vua.
Cdng lao ldn nhit cua ba 11 lddng sdc minh khdng dam dddng ndi viec nddc, ba da quyet dinh trao ngdi bau cho Le Hoan, tdc la da truat bo cd nghiep eua nha Dinh, xay ddng nha Tien Le. Day la viec lam h(Jp vdi ldng trdi va long ngddi khi dd. Ba la ngddi phu nd thdc thdi, nghi den van menh ciia dit nddc tren bet, bo qua nhdng ldi ban tan, phan ddi, tham chi ea nhdng dd luan xiu cua trieu dinh luc bay gid.
55
LA DANG BAT
Lai mdt lan nda, vddt len tren nhdng ngddi phu nd dddng thdi, dam td quyet doan tinh cam rieng td. tbeo tiing gpi eua con tim, ba chia se hanh phuc vdi Le Hoan. Tiep dd, ba da cung Le Hoan gdp phan xay ddng dit nddc sau chien thing. Den nam Canh Ti (1000) ba qua ddi, thp 49 tudi. ' •*
Vua Dinh Tien Hoang cd 5 ba Hoang hau. Vua Le Dai Hanh cung co 5 ba Hoang hau. Bdn ba Hoang hau khac ciia vua Dinh va bdn ba Hoang hau khac ciia vua Le, d&u khdng dxxac tac tddng thd cf trong hai den, duy nhit chi cd Dddng Van Nga la dddc tac tddng thd d den Dinh cung vdi tddng Dinh Tien Hoang dat trong Chinh eung. Den thdi Hau Le, cd dng quan bach rang: "Xuit gia tdng phu" (lay chdng thi phai theo chdng) theo thuyet "Tam tdng", nen nhan dan da rddc tddng ba sang den thd vua Le Dai Hanh.
Tddng Dddng Van Nga de quay mat vie phia dfen Dinh (quay mat ve phia Nam), vdi y nghia: Tinh cam ciia ba vdi vua Dinh Tien Hoang rat sau nang va mang nhieu duyen nd. Ba dddc tac tddng thd, la thi hien sd danh gia cdng lao va tinh cam ciia nhan dan ddi vdi ba.
Taang Ddcfng Van Nga la mdt pho tddng dep. Khudn mat ba bau binh, nddc da hdng hao, cd ddi mit bd eau duyen dang. Day la dang net cua mdt ngddi phu nd Viet Nam cd sic dep, tran day sdc sd'ng. Chide ao ngoai ciia ba dddc tac rd tu^g nep gap deu dan, budng thdng xudng, dl hd chide ao ben trong mdng dinh che bd ngdc nd
56
CO DO HOA LLT
nang nhd bao phu nd thanh xuan kiem diim khac. Cd le,
ngddi xda mud'n tao ddng hinh anh ba la mdt phu nd
xinh dep, quyen ru, sd'ng sdi ndi manh liet, day tai nang.
Tdcfng truyen, Dddng Van Nga la ngddi d xa Van
Long, ddng Hoa Ld (nay la xa Gia Van, huyen Gia Vien),
ket duyen vdi Dinh Bd Linh td thud hai ngddi cdn ban
v i . . , . • * .V . 1 , V l , L, , — •,..
Gian bdn phai tddng vua Le Dai Hanh, dat tren be da
tddng Le Long Dinh (Le Ngpa Trieu), la con thd 5 cua
vua Le Dai Hanh va la ddi vua thd 3 eiia nha Tien Le.
Sau khi vua Le Dai Hanh qua ddi nam 1005, Le
Trung Tdng (Nam Phong Vddng), ten buy la Long Vidt,
la con thd 3 ciia vua Le Dai Hanh len ngoi dddc ba ngay,
tbLbj em cung me (Dddng Van Nga) la Le Long Dinh
giet. Le Trung Tdng thp'*23 tudi.
Sau khi giet em, nam Binh Ngp (1006), Le Long Dinh
len ngdi, lly nien hieu la Ung Thien, tdn hieu la "Khai
Thien li'ng Van Thanh Than Vd Tie Thien Sung Dao
Dai Thing Minh Quang Hieu Hoang De", phong Li Cdng
Uan lam Ta Than Ve Dien Tien Chi Huy Sd.
Tinh vua Le Long Dinh da chem giet, lai say dim tufu
sic, nen phat ra benh tri, khdng thi ngdi coi chau dddc,
ma phai nam dl coi chau, vi vay dddc gpi la vua Le Ngpa
Trieu.
57
LA DANG BAT
Den ngay Tan Hdi, thang 10, mua ddng, nam Ki Dau (1009), vua Le Ngpa Trfeu qua ddi tai phdng ngu trong dien, thp 24 tudi, d ngdi vua dddc 4 nam.
Tit ca cac tddng d Chinh Cung deu tac bang gd mit, dddc sdn son thiep vang. Van bia d den thd vua Le Dai Hanh cham khic cf nien hieu Hoang Dinh thd 12 (1611) ddi vua Le Kinh Tdng (1600 - 1619) eho biet: "Den ngdy 19 thdng 6 ndm Tdn Hgi thi Hung cong tgc thdnh tugng vua Le Dgi Hdnh, Hodng Thdi Hau Bdo Quang, vua Ngpa Trieu. Ngdy tdt 24 thdng 6 ndm Nhdm Ti thi xong...".
Den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang va den thd vua Le Dai Hanh mai mai la bieu tddng cho sd tdn kinh, biet dn eua nhan dan (^ nddc ddi vdi hai dng vua da ed cdng ldn d the ki X eua dan tdc. (1)
li.- • .;n,A.i i l pi ^..y'/. :^\-y I'•'.*X''\'i' '>!•: ":"in
c i ' h l _. ..jvi 'K' . 'uOti f ) 0>,> (if H {
: : f ' > ' " 'J '..md n-'i'* i'^-rl''' ^ n ' ' ! nl ' i
•^r- ' ! ; I •-.-. .'.c . ' ^ i ^ i f v - o l T u - ' 1
'-'Ut . .' "; -.'I-.:- .• ! . ^^j>i^: :
(1) Cd t ham khao bai "Den vua Ld" ciia Nguyin Van Trd in t rong sach "Danh thang Ninh Binh" — Tap 1 — Sd Van hda — Thdng tin va T h i thao Ninh Binh — 1993.
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CO DO HOA LLT
tAi •^jr:\s%c i7T':i[- "'" ' .-;.-" .ur.
,- 1 vi«„ ..sio m MA YEN SON ,;. . , .T . . f* J ,.^fi hri 1 c,'< I r - . . r ' . , . . . , / •( . . .-i t ' . ' " .
Du khach tham den thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang xong,
khdng thi khdng len tham lang vua Dinh Tien Hoang
tren dinh nui Ma Yen. Nui cf ngay trddc den Dinh, cao
chdng 200m. Hai dau nui nhd cao, gida vdng xud'ng
trdng gidng hinh yen ngda, nen gpi la Ma Yen.
Tddng truydn, khi Dinh Bd Linh len ngdi Hoang de
nam 968, dng da chpn Hoa Ld, mdt vung nui non hilm
trd de xay ddng kinh dd va lly nui nay lam an. Nhd the
Ma Ydn Sdn da cd vi tri r i t dac biet. ^ , „ ,,,,-,-
Vl vay, sau khi vua Dinh Tien Hoang bang ha, nhan
dan da dda thi hai dng an tang tren dinh nui nhd mudn
khang dinh sd nghiep cao ca cua Ong td phue hdng
thdng nha't qudc gia phong kien dau tien trong lich sd
dan tdc Viet Nam. Con ngddi vinh hing, bit td dd vin
nhd cdn ngdi tren yen ngda dl cdu dan, giup nddc.
Sach "Dai Viet sd ki toan thd" cd ghi: Khi voia Dinh
Tien Hoang mit, quin than "Rudc linh cihi cua Tien
Hodng de ve an tdng d Trdng An Scfn Ldng (tUc niii Md
Yen)". - • • , + > . , - ._ , . , . . . . J ._ ,.,
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LA DANG BAT
Mudn len dinh Ma Yen, du khach phai treo 265 bac
da (dddc siia sang lai td nam 1960). Nhieu bac da mdn
ldm, vi hang nam biet bao ngddi len chiem ngddng da
dat chan tdi. Len tdi day, du khach mdi biet may trdi
tuyet dep va cdi ldng ling xud'ng de tha bay trong gid
nhdng lo toan tran tuc nhd lang lang, thoang nhe, sang
khoai, ddi dao cam hdng. Vao budi sang sddng mu bay
phii nhieu, ngpn nui luc an lue hien trdng rat huyen bi.
Lang vua Dinh Tien Hoang xay chinh gida dinh nui.
Thien nhien kien tao hay con ngddi tao diitig thanh
vung da tning xudng, bing phIng, rdng den vai tram
met vudng dl xay lang. Lang bang da, cd mdt bd thd,
tren dat mdt Id hdcmg da. Trddc lang ddng mdt bia da,
mat trddc khac sau chd Han: "Dinh Tien Hodng De chi
long", b^n canh cd ddng chd nho: "Minh Menh nhi thgp
nhai nien, ngu, nguyet, sa nhi nhat phung sdc kien".
Mat sau bia khic ddng chd: "Hdm Nghi nguyen nien,
cihi nguyet, nhi thgp tU nhat triing tu Tien de long". Cd
nghia la: Lang vua Dinh Tien Hoang dddc xay bing da
nam Minh Menh thd 21 (1840), ngay 2 thang 5 va ddn
nam Ham Nghi thd 1 (1885), ngay 24 thang 9 trung tu
lai ' • • i, i .' • .\ -A. - n ""tuji t.
Hcfn mpt thd ki rddi trdi qua, nhd thach thdc vdi thdi
gian, nhdng net chd trdn bia da vin khdng md.
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CO DO HOA LLT
Nhd the viec an tang thi hai vua Dinh Tien Hoang
tren dinh Ma Yen td nam Ki Mao (979), lang md da cd
td nam dd. De'n nam 1840 nhan dan mdi xay du'ng lang
bing da nhd bay gid.
Ndi day la sd ling dpng, yen tinh nhit ciia cudc ddi,
nhdng lai bdng sang, ngdi len dng anh nhd ngpc niem
td(ifng nhd cdng dn to ldn ciia vua Dinh Tien Hoang.
Trddc anh linh Ngddi, du khach thip hddng tddng
niem. Hddng thdm tren dinh nui tda bay, lan xa cung
ngao ngat hddng ddng gid ndi mdt vung non nddc Hoa
Ld. Khdi hddng bay nghi ngut, tram tdcfng nhd hddfng
tam hdn du khach hay nhd ve cdi ngudn dan tdc. nC)
Tren dinh Ma Y&n Sdn cd nhfeu cay lau hoa nd trang
xda. Nhin hoa lau, du khach hdi tddng ve qua khd xa
xda, nhd den hinh anh tudi thd ciia Dinh Bd Linh. Ngay
ngay di chan trau cho dng chu rudt Dinh Thue Dd, Dinh
Bd Linh thddng eung cac ban chdi trd danh tran gia. Dpi
quan chan trau chia lam hai phe, bao gid Dinh Bd Linh
cung cam dau mdt phe. Dinh Bd Linh da lly hoa lau lam
cd. Mdi khi phe ciia Dinh Bd Linh thing phe kia, cac
bdng hoa lau tren tay ciia quan tddng lai dddc phit len
tung bay trddc gid va Dinh Bd Linh dddc cac ban ket tay
lam kieu, rddc di vdng quanh bai tran. Tdcrtig truyen,
mdt hdm Dinh Bd Linh "thing tran rat oanh liet", da
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LA DANG BAT
giet mdt con trau beo nha't trong dan trau cua dng chu
dl khao quan si. Ong chu biet tin ben vac gddm chay
bang bang ra bai tha trau tim Dinh Bd Linh dl hdi tdi.
Thiy chu td ding xa, Dinh Bd Linh lien lly cai dudi trau
chda kip an thit cam vao mdt khe nui da va binh tinh
chd chu den ma tra ldi ring: "Con trau da chui vao khe
nui da, chau keo ra khdng ndi, nhd chu den keo giiip".
Ong chu td(Jng that, hai tay nim chat dudi trau, ddng
dang chan cheo keo. Khdng ngd dng nga ngiia, dau dieng
ngddi. Biet minh bi mic ldm, dng cang dien tiet hdn,
cam ludn gddm dudi theo Dinh Bd Linh.
Dinh Bd Linh chay vd phia nui Trddng Yen de trdn
tranh, nhdng bi ddng sdng chin ngang khdng di qua
du'de. Dinh Bd Linh ben gpi anh Long la ngddi cheo dd
luc dd de chd minh sang sdng. Anh cheo dd khdng ra,
bit cbdt mdt eon Rdng Vang ndi len ngang sdng dl Dinh
Bd Linh di tren ldng sang ben kia sdng.
Tb% vay dng chu kinh hoang, elm gddm xud'ng dit
lay nhd te sao. Con sdng dd sau dddc gpi la Hoang Long.
Qua nui cd gddm eiia dng Dinh Thuc Dd cam dddi chan
nui, sau dddc gpi la ndi Cim Gddm. Con dddng td lang
ra den bd sdng, cung dddc gpi la dddng Bai Yet. Ben dd
ay gpi la Hoang Long Dp. Thda rudng ^ n chan nui gpi
la Kiem Dien. ' "u-n
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CO DO HOA LLT
Cau chuyen dan gian nhd mdt huyen thoai ve Dinh
Bd Linh thdng minh, tai ba, cd than sic de vddng ngay
td nhd, nen td mdt chu be chan trau da trd thanh mdt vi
Hoang de lay ldng trong lich sd dan tdc.
Ddng tai d^y, du khach cd thi nhin rd toan canh Cd
Dd Hoa Ld. Ding trddc la nui Long Trfeu, cdn gpi la nui
Dai van (1) nhd bao phii quanh hai ngdi den Dinh, Le.
Nhin xa hai ngdi den nhd bde phu dieu tac vao nui.
Ding kia la nui Cim Gddm, trdng nhd mdt thanh gddm.
Day la nui Cdt Cd cao vut nhd bdng dang cua la cd nddc
Dai Cd Viet da tOfng cam tr&n dinh thdi xda, dang tung
bay gida may trdi. Phia xa nhin eon sdng Hoang Long
udn Idpn nhd eon Rdng Vang ndi len ddn Dinh Bd Linh
thud ban vi. Mdi ngpn nui, mdi ddng sdng d day deu
mang mpt truyen thuyet hap dan va li thd. .a t
Dddi chan cac rang nui, du khach thiy ddng rudng,
dddng sa ke thanh d ngang dpc nhd ban ed. Ndi len la
nhdng mai nha an hien dddi eac rang cay xanh. Tit ea
h(Jp thanh mdt bde tranh thien nhien tddi dep, cd nui
biec, nddc trong, cay xanh, ngdi dd, day mau sic. dddng
net cua mdt mien que yen a, tru phu ma mpt thdi da
tdng la mdt kinh dd cua nu'dc Dai Cd Viet.
( DTheo "Dai Nam nhat thdng chi" - Tap 3 - NXB KHXH • Ha Ndi -1971 -Trang 237
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LA DANG BAT
Chinh vi vay, khi ddng tren dinh Ma Yen, vieng lang
Tien De xong, Tham hoa Vu Pham Ham (1864 — 1910)
ngddi Ha Tay da de thd "MA YEN SO'N L A N G " nhd
sau:
"Phu hdm Hodng Long khda thgch luOng,
Hoa Lu thdnh npi toi cao cUOng. •
Bdn khong yen vu tnt thien co, ,. .. .
Nhi de than linh gid bdt hoang. , ,, . , >
Ki kiem du uy khong thdo thu,
, Kim ngdn cd chi bien tinh sUdng. ^ .
Thdnh trieu hdu y sieu tien triet, .jy .y) jgfj
Dgc kiem phong bi bieu tich vUOng". ,,• .
Dich thd: ' " '
"Ditdfi sap da, Rong Vang quanh quat,
Thanh Hoa Ltf cao ngat nghin trung.
Khoi mu mdf mit tren khong,
La ndi Nhi de vay vung ngay xtfa.
, Cof vdri kiem con trO cay co,
,, r Nen kim ngan may do tang thu'cmg.
;> .,/ Thanh trieu an y khac thu£fng,
;„ ; •, Chep vao bia de bieu dUofng Tien trieu".
iqjV -') (Thi nhan Dinh Gia Thuyet dich)
Ong Ddng Chau cung cd bai thd Ndm vinh nui Ma
Yen: . . . „ . , ;
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CO DO HOA LLT
"Yen ngtfa chon von ngat dinh deo,
Scfn lang dau cu da cheo leo.
Diu hiu ngon gio cO lau phat,
Vang vang sudfn non tieng muc reo.
Nen mieu Trang An con viing da,
Tam bia Tien De chiia mdf reu. ,
• ' '• Non song Co Viet nao dau do? .! 'i c
Bang lang thanh Hoa bong ac chieu". ' '
Du khach vieng lang vua Dinh Tien Hoang tren dinh
nui xong, fan theo bac da xud'ng chan nui, di quanh ve
phia Nam khoang 800 m de vieng lang vua Le Dai Hanh
- Ngddi ke tuc sd nghiep cua nha Dinh, lap ra nha Tien
L§.
Lang vua Le Dai Hanh dddc xay bang gach, cd tddng
hoa bao quanh, nim d dddi chan nui Quai Dieu (1) tdc la
nui Kim Ke (2), cdn gpi la Hoan Y Sdn (3) vi gidng chiec
ghe.
Lang vua Le Dai Hanh dddc xay ddng td khi dng mit.
Den nam Minh Menh thd 20 (1839) lang dddc tu siia va
ddng bia (4).
(1) (4)Theo "Dai Nam nha't thd'ng chi" - T^p 3 - NXBKHXH - Ha Ndi - 1971-Trang 238, 256
(2) l,3)Theo "Ninh Binh toan tinh dia chi khao bidn" ciia Nguydn Tu Mlin.
5 -CDHL ^^
LA DANG BAT
Hai ben lang vua Le Dai Hanh cd hai qua ndi chau lai
nhd hinh tay ngai, gpi la Long Chau, Hd Phuc.
Nui eao la gach ndi gida trdi va da't. cung la chd'n linh
thieng mi le.
Phai chang. Ma Yen Sdn cung vay, cd lang Tien De
tren dinh ngay dem long gid, nhd khang dinh mdt eon
ngddi bat hii, ldn len, trddng thanh, lap nghiep, xay
ddng kinh dd td nui - "Kinh dd da" va khi mat di, lai tni
ve vdi nui vinh hing. „.r»
•9»i
., ;, u,.i ;i'cH i :- (I
l^ '• • 'l t " 0 V ! •
• • •••••..a. •'• '•'ili' • • i U i f f t i , 1
66 jHor. - e
CO DO HOA LLT
DONG AM TIEN «
Tham lang vua Dinh tren nui Ma Yen xong, ddn ben dd sdng Sao Khe n ^ i thuydn xudi hddng Nam (Dddng thiiy di tham Xuyen Thiiy Ddng) khoang 500m rdi ldn bd, hoac di bp theo con dddng rai da rdng song song vdi sdng Sao Khe 500 jn, thiy cd mdt cay da a chan nui phia b§n tay trai each dddng vai chuc met, du khach re trai, di vao con dddng nho ^ n 100m ni2a den cai quen thip mang ten Am Tidn, cd chidu cao so vdi mat rudng 15m, la ldi di vao ddng Am Ti&n.
Quen nay dai 20m, hai dau la hai vach nui cao nhd cai cdng khdng Id ciia tao hda. Dddng l&n quen qua 55 bac da. Ldn den dinh ddc, phia bdn tay phai du khach cd am dd ba chd Han d tren "Nhac Thin Giang" (Ndi thd than nui). Hai bdn am cd ddi cAu dd'i:
"Nhi scfn ngddng chi canh hanh hanh chi.
Hdu Tidn tac danh hdu long tac linh"
Tam dich:
"Len ndi ngita mat nhin cdnh dep di di lgi lgi.
Cd Tien chdc cd tieng cd rong se co linh thieng"
Trddc khi vao ddng, du khach hay thap hddng khin thin nui phu hd cho chuyen di du ngoan tdt dep, may
67
LA DANG BAT
Ddng tren dinh quen. nhin ve phia Ddng, du khach thiy mdt thung lung rdng khoang 10 miu, xung quanh la ndi cao bao bpe. Cd cai quen nay mdi cd ldi vao ddng.
Theo dddng dde, qua 55 bac da nda, mdi de'n thung, d
gida cd mpt eon dddng nhd dai da, hai ben la hai canh
ddng Ida xanh mddt. Di tren con dddng nhd nay, nhin
hai ben va trddc mat chi thay nui cao chdt vdt. Vach nui
ben tay phai du khach mpe day loai tnic dudi cdng. Loai
true nay chiu dddc khd ban, sdng d vach da tha xud'ng
nhd nhdng dudi cdng xanh biec. Cf cac vach nui, cay edi
mpe um tum. Du khach cdn nhin thay nhdng gid phong
lan phd sic gida trdi, nhdng cay thien tue, van tue, cay
xanh, cay si, cay da... da tdng sd'ng ngan van nam ben
nui cao. Xa xa tren sddn nui, thip thoang nhdng dan
chim dang bay va nhdn nhd ldng chdng nui tdng dan de
dang an la cay. An hien trong mdt sd lum cay, cac con
thu dang ngd ngac nghe mdt tie'ng cdi sddng. j^-
Budi sang, du khach vao day, sddng mu bay phii nui
non nhd khdi sdng huyen ao. Hdng ddng, sdcmg tan dan,
nlng mdi len, chieu sang lap loang nhdng hang cay, la
canh cdn bdng loang sddng dem, dddng nhd mudn hut
lly anh sang mat trdi luc ban mai, lung linh bay sic eau
vdng, huyen dieu. Phong canh nhd mang ndi niem cd
tich, md mang, hoang ving ciia nui In may trdi, may che
a'p nui, tao thanh mdt bde tranh son lam ngoan muc ciia
mdt hpa si thien tai dddc ve bang mdt thd but son mau
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CO DO HOA LLT
nhiem, khang dinh nui non Viet Nam hung vi vd cung, thi hien sd da dang phong phu ciia thien nhien.
Neu khdng cd cai quen da di qua, ehlc khi vao day rdi du khach se khdng cdn bie't dddng nao dl trd ra, chi cd thi lam Tien mdi bay dddc ve que nha.
Di bet dddng dii da gan 500 m, du khach se de'n chan nui Hang Rdng (1). Ben tay phai du khach, dddi chan nui cd ba thap xay ba tang (thap d gida eao to hdn) la ndi ehdn cit cac nha sd da tru tri d chua Am Tien va mat tai day. Tdi gdc cay sung to 11 ldi len ddng Am Tien,
Dddng len ddng qua 210 bac da xep ngoln ngeo theo sddn nui, Hai ben ldi di cd nhu'ng cay da, cay sung, cay chd, cay dai thu cao to che rdp mdt mau xanh lam cho du khach cam thiy mat me. Cang len cao, khdng khi cang trd nen trong lanh thoang nhe, nhd bui bam cua cudc ddi da dddc chieu cao cua nui thanh lpc dan lam cho du khach cd cam giac khdng edn nhpc nhin khi leo nui dl thanh than bddc vao cdi Phat.
Sddn nui trddc ciia ddng, cay edi mpe nhd rdng, cac loai chim eua nui rdng thi nhau ca hdt nhd ddn chao du khach bang nhdng am thanh riu rit.
Day rdi, ddng Am Tien quay hddng Tay d ldng chdng nui Hang Rdng, cd dp eao so vdi chan nui khoang 70m, gdm hai Idp: Ldp ngoai chay dai, gpi la cda ddng, Idp trong an sau vao rudt nui, hep hdn nhd kilu "chudi vd".
( l )6ng Thi nhan Dinh Gia Thuyet goi nui cd ddng Am Tidn la nui "Hang Rdng".
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LA DANG BAT
gpi la ddng chinh. Du khach se siing sdt trddc mdt ciia
dpng dai den 35m, cao hdn chuc met. Mdt day tddng hoa
xay bang gach chin ciia dpng. Nen ciia ddng bing phIng
dd(Jc lat da.
Hai ben ciia ddng (ldp ngoai) ndi ldn hai ddng dit mdi
dun mau vang, dddc gpi la "cay tien", "cay thdc". Sat
vach da ben trai eiia ddng dufng hai t im bia da (mdt tim
cao 1,6 m, mdt t im cao 1,3 m, rdng 0,8m), dddc cham
khac chd Han d ca hai mat. Day 11 hai t im bia d thdi
Nguyin (Ddng Khanh nam thd 2 (1887) va Bao Dai nam
thd 7 (1932)). Ndi dung hai t im bia deu ndi ve viec tu
siia chua va ghi lai lich chua Am Tien, trong dd cd doan:
"Chiia xua khong nhd ten, chi truyen lgi tdm bia co co
chit "Thdi Su Nham". Sd di gpi la Thdi Su, hdn day Id
bgc thdy cUa cdc bgc thay chdng. Chiing toi cung bdn bgc
vdi nhau de dot ten chiia la Am Tien, chdc Id phii hdp
han cd" (1). -- - - -
Nhd the tdn gpi chua Am Tidn mdi cd td thdi Nguyin.
ti-i
Lui vao trong, cung cf vach da bdn trai ddng, tren cao
cd mpt ta'm bia khac vao vach da dai 1,55 m, rdng 0,82
met. Sd chd trong bia la 328, vdi 5 ddng dau chd to, 9
ddng sau chd nhd. Nhieu chd Han md khdng dpc dddc.
Chinh gida tran bia cd tac bdng hoa sau canh dai nd be
(l)Theo Hoang Giap d Vidn nghidn ctjfu Han Ndm.
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CO DO HOA LLT
ra cac hddng cung vdi 4 la trai dai ve hai ben va hoa la phii kin tran bia. is'^'- u j,,i
" Bia cd nidn dai 1179, dddi ddi vua Li Cao Tdng (1176 -1210). •• . • . •"
'• O vach da ciia ddng cd ddng chd: "Dgi Chu ma scfn dng. Dgi quang Thdnh". Cd nghia la: Bia ndi ve Dai quang Thanh vung nui Dai chu ma. Toan bd ndi dung bia ndi vd mdt vi Dai sd nddc Dai Cd Viet ta tu hanh d vung nui Chu ma, cd hp Chu (?), hp Nguyin (1) (dang tide la bia bi mdn khdng rd chd ndn khdng dpc dddc). "Hp Nguyin" d day cd the la Thien sd Nguyin Minh Khdng da ddn tu d vung nui Chu ma. i IFI'; ^ n -::>-,i
Sd di bie't ddcJc nam khac bia la nam 1179, vi trdn bia cd chd: "Trinh Phii, Bdo iTng (thU tu)". Ddi chieu trong nien lich, thi "Trinh Phu" la nien hieu dau tien ciia vua Ll Cao Tdng, edn nam thd td, ehinh la nam 1179. Cdn chd "Bao iTng" khdng ed, chi cd "Tri Binh Long iTng" la nien hieu cudi eung ciia vua Li Cao Tdng td nam 1205 den 1210. Cd thd ngddi khle bia nham "Long tfng" thanh "Bao I^ng".
Nhd the' mdt dfeu chac chin, day la tam bia cd da dddc khac d thdi Li ghi ba chd "Thai Sd Nham". .,,;
Vach da bdn phai cufa ddng cd treo mdt qua chudng
nhd. • diiv Iv 1.,j •j;il>i.iiJ I'll ifw.' " . i ' '
(1) Theo tu hdu ciia bao tang Ha Nsim Ninh. ii J J • • i
71
LA DANG BAT
Td tddng hoa du khach di vao 12m, bddc len ba bac da, eao khoang 0,4m la den ldp trong (ciia ddng hep hdn, cao 3m, rdng ^ n 10m), gpi la ddng chinh hay "chudi vd". Nen dpng eung dddc lat da va gach r i t bang phang nhd nen nha. Du khach se choang ngdp trddc mdt ddng dep, cao, rdng, trdng nhd mdt cai du hoac mdt cai bat da khdng fd up xudng. Chd cao nhit d gida la 15m. Dddng kinh nen ddng dai 35m. Gida nde ddng cd nhfeu nhu da ni xud'ng vdi cac dang hinh ngoan muc nhd: Qua phat thii, qua bf, bIp ngd, eon ho, eon sd tii... Thien nhidn can man, tai hoa ngan nam mdi cham khac dddc nhdng dang hinh nhd the. Dae biet, vach ddng.d phia Ddng vat phIng nhd mai nha. Chi cd tao hda mdi xe dddc nhdng ta'm da phang li ki dieu ly. Trong ddng cd nhieu nhu da, nddc nhd deu dan quanh nam thanh thdt. Ngddi ta phai xay cac bl trdn hiing nddc cho hen ddng ludn khd rao. Ddng trong ddng du khach cam thiy mat lanh.
Gan cudi ddng, trddc day, ngddi ta xay cac be dat txXOng thd Phat. Cach day hdn 100 nam ngddi ta mdi ddng them mdt ngdi fau, ben trong cung xay eac be thd eao tha'p dat nhfeu tddng Phat sdn son thiep vang nhd cac ngoi ehua khac.
Trddc rau viet ba chd Han ldn: "Am Tien Dong" (Ddng Am Tien). Hai cdt phia ngoai fau viet cau ddi:
"Canh sac td nhien vu tru biet thanh thien cd dpng.
Giam lam tai thd(;mg td bi phd tinh van sinh linh".
Tam dich:
72
CO DO HOA LLT
"Cdnh dep tu nhien ddy do trdi ddt tgo ra thdnh dpng
dd ldu ddi.
Giam cam (ho bdo) d cho ndy nay thd Phat chung
giam linh thieng cho muon ngUdi".
(Tddng truyen, xda kia vua Dinh eho nudi hd bao d
trong ddng, he cd ke nao pham tdi nang thi dda vao day
cho bd bao an thit) .
Ben phai lau thd Phat la mdt lau nhd tren cd ghi ba
chd Han: "Chan T l Sd" (Ndi thd Chan Tl) , dat td(;mg
Ddc Ong, cd nhiem vu trdng coi toan bd canh ehua.
Hai ben Fau ghi cau ddi: ' ' - ' "' •''• '••'
.:.ii;ri i*' '• ^••' •' -'.O-' y-fmurl'-t ';'!:'> "Thd t rung hdu kim ngoc.(l). , . .
H i ' n 01. • ^ •:"•• :>'r< \
But thddng td tieu ham". , • • • ' I.; ,:•.; . ;- . w r ' ' !
Tam dich: . i-rrn i.'i', <:;lj >'(\CiiSy. n , ' ! ; ,:•.'\(\^ :'i;-!
I f -"Trong sdch CO vdng ngpc. jva,/,' :ai.'iit
Ngpn but ldm phdm hdm". r.j" / rji> ' . .. n<n v.l.
Bdn trai fau thd Phat la mdt wiie'u nhd dat tddng thd
Nguyen Minh Khdng d tren ghi ba chd Han: "Hi in
Thanh Td" (Mieu thd Hi in Thanh), Hai ben mieu eung
ghi eau ddi:
( 1) Ve ddi nay cua dng Ta Ao, ngvrdi lang Ta Ao. huydn Nghi Xuan tinh Ha Tinh. la mot nha dia li (phong thuyi cua nudc ta thdi xua.
73
LA DANG BAT
"Dfem Giang sinh Hien Thanh. • ' ' '"'
Hoa Ddng tiep Than Cao" ' ' '
Tam dich: '
Diem Giang sinh ro vi Hien Thdnh.
Hoa Dpng tgo nen Thdn tdi cao"
Trong ddng ed cac pho td(Jng Phat, Thanh uy
nghiem, nhan td do eon ngddi tao ddng hda nhap vdi cac
hinh hai nhu da ki dieu eua tao hda. Tit ca hien len linh
thieng trong anh nen va nhdng \6e dd ciia hddng trim
thap 11 Phat. Day chinh la mdt "ngdi chua" r i t ddc dao,
dac biet do ban tay than ki, vd hinh ciia nghe si thien
nhien kien tao nen. Chua r i t linh thieng. Du khach
thap phdcfng de'n ehua le Phat, dau Tien, mong mud'n
phuc Im eho minh va cho ddi.
Phia sau Fau thd Phat, cudi ddng cdn cd mdt eai hang
sau tham tham xud'ng dat, tdi om, cda hang chi bing
mieng thung, ngddi xda gpi la "Hpng Rdng". Cd le, vi
the ndi nay dddc gpi la nui "Hang Rdng". "Hpng Rdng"
dddc eoi la "ldi xudng am phu". Chda cd ai dam di xud'ng
hang sau bl an nay! .-r,, ...'--,t -, ..
Thdi nha Dinh, luat phap chda rd rang. Nhdng ke
pham tdi deu bi xd theo y eua nha vua mdt each r i t da
man. Sach "Dai Viet sd Iddc" (khuyen danh - thdi Tran)
cd ghi: "Nhd vua dot vgc ddu ldn d ncfi sdn, nudi cpp
74
CO DO HOA LU
trong ctd vd hg lenh rdng: - Co cu phgm phdp se bi ndu,
hogc cho cpp xe thdy" (1).
Vl vay, tdcfng truyen, nha Dinh da dung ddng nay lam
mdt Nguc Da. Nha vua cho nudi hd, bao d trong ddng. Hi
cd ke nao pham tdi nang thi bit nhdt vao diy cho manh
thu an thjt. Nhdng dau lau, hai ed't nhieu ngay chit
ddng d trong ddng. Ve sau thd hinh phat da man nay
dddc bai bd, nhdng nhdng oan bdn td khi van cdn trong
ddng. Ngddi dan dia phdcfng di qua day thddng nghe
thiy tieng ma keu quy khdc, hd thet, beo ^ m . Ai cung
khiep via kinh hdn, khdng he dam ben mang de'n gin
d d n g . or ; :,• , ri£>; :;i.)'. n f\ , ./' :,i] . i , ; ' ; , ,. i ; . ! ! . '
Ddn thdi nha Li, cd dng Nguyin Minh Khdng la bac
cao tang, phap thuat cao eddng, mdt hdm vao tham hiem
trong ddng thay vay, ben tung kinh thuyet phap, lam
cho ma quy, hum beo deu phai mat tich. i-.- . -r /uy,,
The rdi, dng xay be thd Phat d trong ddng, cd tiian
rim, mdng mdt, lai cho dd de vao tung kinh de nhdng
vong hdn dddc sieu thoat. Dan dan ngddi dan d day cung
vao le bai, khdng cdn sd hai gi nda.
Td dd, ngu'di ta xay ddng them cac be thd Phat. Canh
tri trong ddng da dep, nay lai dddc thd Phat, nen du
(1) Dai Vidt sii luoe" - Nha xuSt ban thanh phd Hd Chi Mih - 1993-Trang 91.
75
LA DANG BAT
khach de'n vang canh nhfeu. Ddng trd nen mpt ehdn Am
Tien, bdi the mdi ed ten la ddng Am Tien, hay chua Am
Tien, * , ,., . -. '
Dl tddng nhd cdng lao cua Thien sd Nguyen Minh
Khdng, ngddi ta da xay them mieu thd Nguyen Minh
Khdng d trong ddng. ,, ,_ .
Nguyin Minh Khdng sinh ngay 15 thang 10 (am lich)
nam 1065, ngddi xa Dam Xa, phu Tru'dng Yen (nay la xa
Gia Thing, huyen Gia Viln, tinh Ninh Binh), ten 1;d la
Chi Thanh. Nam 11 tudi dng xua't gia, thu giao dao Phat
vdi Td Dao Hanh ('? - 1117). ngu'di lang Yen Lang (nay
thudc ngoai thanh Ha Ndi) la bac cao tang ndi tie'ng thdi
bay gid.
Trd thanh nha tu hanh, Thien sd Nguyin Minh
Khdng da lap ra nhieu ehua va tru tri d eac chda: Chua
Quynh Lam (xa Ha Ldi, huyen Ddng Trfeu, tinh Quang
Ninh), chua Pha Lai.... Ong la mdt nha tu hanh ldn thdi
biy gid, CO dao hpe uyen bac. "Dai Viet sd ki toan thd"
cd ghi: "Qud'c su Minh Khong... rat linh iing, phdm khi
CO thuy hgn tai hpa gi cdu ddo deu linh nghiem cd".
Nguyen Minb Khdng cdn la mdt danh y thien tai. Vua Li
Than Tdng (1128 - 1138) bdng td nhien mic trpng
benh. Cac danh y ndi tieng khip ndi deu dddc trieu ve
kinb dd de chda benh, cho Vua. nhdng benh tinh vin
76
CO DO HOA LLT
khdng giam. Ong dddc mdi ve trieu de chda benh cho
Vua. Sach "Dai Viet sd ki toan thd" cung ghi: Sd Minh
Khdng da chda eho vua Li Than Tdng khdi benh, dddc
ban hieu "Qudc Sd". Td dd dng dddc gpi la: "Li Qud'c
Sd".
Nguyin Minh Khdng cdn dddc suy tdn la Ong td eiia
nghe due ddng Viet Nam. „. ,
t o nr..f 1 {f.i ^aC:i ;•' •^:aj:'.^
Ong mat vao mua thu (thang 8) nam Tan Dau, nien
hieu Dai Dinh thd 2 (1141), thp 76 tudi.
Sau khi dng mit, vua Li Anh Tdng (1138 - 1175) cho
lap den thd dng d kinh dd, ngay nay la den Li Qudc Sd,
thude phd.Li Qud'c Sd, Ha Ndi. Ong cdn dddc thd d chua
Pha Lai; chua Keo (ehua Hanh Thien) d xa Xian Hdng,
huyen Giao Thuy (Nam Dinh); ehua Dich Long d xa Gia
Thanh, huyen Gia Viln (Ninh Binh); den thanh Nguyin
d xa Gia Thing, huyen Gia Vien. eung rat nhfeu chua d
cac ndi khac va cung dddc thd tai day.
Ong da dddc tdn la bac Thanh. Tuc ngu' cd eau:
"Dai Hdu sinh Vddng.
Dfem Giang sinh Thanh".
(Ldng Dgi HUu (xd Gia Phuang, huyen Gia Vien) sinh
Vua, tUc vua Dinh Tien Hodng).
77
LA DANG BAT
Ldng Diem Giang (Ddm Xd, - xd Gia Thdng, huyer
Gia Viin) sinh Thdnh, tUc Thien sU Nguyin Mini
Khdng). , 1 ^ _,.. r.
Nhd vay ddng"Am Tien thd ca Phat, ca Tien. Tien (
day la Thidn sd Nguyin Minh Khdng. Phat dddc thd dc
Nguyin Minh Khong lap chua td thdi Ll.
Du khach de'n dpng Am Tien se khdng phai tddng
tuong ve Bdng lai, Tien canh nhieu bdi dd la canh than
tien hien gida cdi tran, ngay trong cudc sd'ng ciia chiing
ta . '':V.'^
Ddng Am Tien - ndi thd Phat, thd Tidn, cung la ndi
tu luyen cua chan nhan, la ndi lui tdi cua tao nhan mac
khach, la mdt diem du lich ludn hap din du khach. Qua
la mdi bddc di, du khach lai phat hien them nhOlig dieu
mdi la, bdi nhutog di tich va danh thing nen thd ludn
lam dam say long ngddi.
f.i';ri-
\\i\
78
CO DO HOA LLT
XUYEN THUY DONG i&iJ
Ddn ben do sdng Sao Khe, du khach xudng thuyen, se ed ngddi cheo theo sdng Sao Khe ve pbia Nam dda di Xuyen Thuy Ddng. Xuyen Thuy Ddng tdc la "Hang Ludn". Hang d dddi gam qua nui ldn. Nui nhd vlt ngang qua mdt con sdng nho. Thuyen d ben nay nui sang ben kia nui phai ludn qua hang nddc, nen gpi la Hang Ludn. Ten Hang Ludn la do nhan dan gpi, cdn trong cud'n "Dia dd chi", Nguyin Trai gpi la Xuyen Thuy Ddng. Cac nha phong t'hiiy (dja li) gpi la "Thach Lddng Ddng". Cdn ehua Trinh Sam gpi la "Ddng Xuyen Sdn".
Xuyen Thdy Ddng thude sdn phan lang Trddng Yen Thddng, xa Trddng Yen: Td ben dd de'n eda Xuyen Thiiy Ddng di thuyen khoang 1,5 km.
Tddng truyen, trddc day khu vdc Xuyen Thiiy Ddng la ndi luyen tap thuy quan ciia vua Dinh Tien Hoang.
Ngdi thuyen di Xuyen Thiiy Ddng, du khach dddc nhin canh trdi may sdng nddc, nui non thi vi trong giang sdn elm tu, cd cam giae la binh nhd t i t ca ve dep cua da't trdi da ddn gdp ve day, Hai hen sdng Sao Khe, each khdng xa la hai day nui t.c i cao tha'p ddng ddng, chay dai theo ddng sdng. Vao budi sang cd nhdng lan sddng mong bay phu nui nua, phong canh ao mdng, thdc hd nhd du'a du khach vao -long Tien trong huyen thoai.
79
LA DANG BAT
Thuyen Iddt di tren ddng nddc trong v l t in binh nhdng
dam may bay Id lu"ng gida trdi xanh, du khach cd cam
giae n h d dang bay nhe theo may, mdn man bdi lan gid
thdi diu dang.
Neu du khach den cda Xuyen Thuy Ddng vio budi
sang, se t h i y mat nddc lung linh dii bay sac cau vdng
khi mat trdi chieu qua nui. Canh sdn thuy that ki ao. Ca
mdt vung non nddc n h d bde t ranh thiiy mac.
Nhin ciia hang, du khach se thay bet dddc sdc manh
phi thddng eua nddc. Cau tue ngd "Nddc chay da mdn"
qua dung khdng sai. Cd le, lau l im rdi, trddc day chi la
mdt khe nddc nho chay qua ldng nui, nam nay qua nam
khac, nddc am tham ben bi, kien n b l n ngan ddi, nhd
mdt nghe si ki tai da due da tao binh kien tao nen Hang
Liidn nay chang? Ddng sdng chay qua hang n h d mdt
dddng dng nddc khdng Fd vd tan.
Xuyen Thuy Ddng rdng bdn 30 met, vdm hang kha
cao, n h d mdt mai nha va dai d ing dac den 143 met (dai
hcfn Hang Ca trong Tam Cdc d xa Ninh Hai, huyen Hoa
Ld. Hang Ca dai 127 met), cac con thuyen ed the xudi
ngu'dc de dang. Khi thuyen chui vao hang, du khach cd
ngay mdt cam giae mat lanh n h d ngay he oi a dddc vao
ngdi t rong phdng cd may dfeu hda nhiet dp. Day la eai
mat lanh eda d i t trdi. sdng nui, non nddc dpng iai, gdp
vao ma khdng miy no'i d d i t nddc nay cd dddc.
Cang di vao trong bang, anh sang cang giam dan, du
khach tddng nhd dang di vao edi huyen ao, thdc thdc
80
CO DO HOA LU
md md. 0 day la lang im. tinh mich, ving ve, chi ed nu'dc va da "trd gan cung tue nguyet" (thd Ba Huyen Thanh Quan). Mai cheo khoang nddc bi bdm va tieng roe rach cua nddc khi thuyen di ddn vao thanh hang eung am thanh vang vpng, tieng ndi, gipng eddi cua du khach da pha vd sd tinh lang trong hang sao ma thu vi. Du khach dddc hit thd khi trdi trong lanh cua da ndi sdng nddc mat me cam tddng khd cd the tim dddc ndi nao hcfn the nda.
Vao trong hang, du khach nen ddt dudc de nhin thiy mdt canh sac dieu ki hien ra trong anh sang md ao. Tran hang la du mpi dang hinh va kich ed eua cac vdm da phang bo^c cong cong, khien du khach sdng sdt, nghi de'n d day phai nhd den phep la nao dd mdi cd the lam dddc nhd the. Cd chd da nbln li nhd mai, nhip nhd, rdi lai sau hdm nhd nhdng phu dieu trang tri cho ddng cua mdt nha dieu khle thien tai dddc tac bang ban tay mau nhiem. Rdi cdn nhieu khdi thach nhu mudn hinh nghin dang ru xudng dep den la lung! Chac chin con ngddi khdng the deo tac dddc! Tat ea nhd cd sd sip xep tai tinh bdi ban tay ciia tao hda.
Neu thuyen du khach di dau tien vao hang khi nddc chda bi khua ddng, nhin dddi ddng sdng. cd chd nddc cdn in binh nhdng dam may da tuyet dep, du khach se cam giac nhd dang bay tren trdi vdi nhdng dam may, may Idcfn theo quyen ru. Trong bang cd chd toan nddc va may. Chi cd thien nhien, nddc va da dm ap trddng ton.
6-CDHL ^^
LA DANG BAT
cd lue gian dd, gao thet , sdi sue, cd luc lam lanh ngay
n g i t t inh yeu vinh ciiu tao ra. Ngdi thuydn du khach cd
cam giae n h d dang lac vao ddng Tien, nhdng y nghi lo
toan, bdc doc cua cuoc ddi, de'n day h inh nhd deu tan
bien' het, mudn di nda d lau trong canh sdn thiiy hdd
t inh nay.
Trong hang cdn ed nhieu khdi nhu da tron li, nddc td
day ti tach rd xudng ddng sdng n h d nhdng b iu sda me
dem ngpt ngao s inh khi cho ddi.
Chinh vi vay, mua ddng nam Canh Din (1770), dcfi
vua Le Canh H d n g (1740 - 1786), chua Trjnh Sam -
T inh Dd Vddng (1767 - 1782) di tuan thu cdi Tay (vung
Thanh Hda trd vao) lue quay thuyen trd ve, tdi dat
Trddng Yen, da de'n tham Hang Ludn va da cd mdt bai
thd vinh Hang Ludn, hien cdn khle tren vach niii Xuyen
Thiiy Ddng. Bia cao 1,55 m, rdng 2,42 m, each mat nddc
luc binh thddng khoang 4m. T i t ca cd 13 ddng chd Han
viet t d phai sang trai, t d t ren xud'ng dddi vdi td'ng 142
chil. Nguyen van npi dung bia (phien am) nhd sau:
I "Canh D i n ddng, du Tay t i i ln hdi kha kinh Trang An phdng Hoa Ld. Dan kie'n t d co thanh scfn, n h i t dieu bich gian, t r ung t rung quan tda, bp bp kim thang, trang nga sdn ha chan thien dia an bai nha't dai h inh th ing . Dai tdc Dinh trieu cdU chi tac ddi tddng, cd mieu hoang lddng... tuc vi hdng khoai. Vien tac nhat luat di ta dd hoai-
Tdy tuan todn ich qud Trdng An,
.:',.>: „ Tien dgo Hoa Lu ngu nhdt quan.
82
CO DO HOA LU
Thdt luyen oanh hoi Xuyen Thuy Dpng,
Triing kim nggt nghiep tri scfn quan.
Co do di hi kinh di hodn,
, , Thien phu y nhien tubdo hodn. • '
Xiie muc co nhdn hung phe su, ' • '- >
.,<>f!y- Ddn nham ldm ldm gidi duy gian. i/' • -
Nhat Nam Nguyen ehii de .; '
Than Cao Doan phung ta"
Djch nghia:
"Mim dong ndm Canh Dan il770) ta di tudn thu cdi Tdy, lue quay thuyen trd ve, di tdt tdi ddt TrUdng An de thdm ednh Hoa Lu. Ngodnh nhin bon phia nid xanh, mpt dong nUdc biec, cUa khoa may ldn, titng budc deu la thdnh vdng vd hdo nude nong. Non song cua ta hiing trdng, hinh thdng to ldn ndy that Id do trdi ddt tgo nen vay. Xem ddu vet cua trieu Dinh thi tudng do mieu hoang, Ignh liing xd xdc... khien ta cam khdi ldm mpt bdi tha de td ndi long: , , , - , ,.• , , .,, . ,(- . .! . ,
• ( Tay tlian ve lai ngam TnTofng An, ' • J ' •<'
Thuyen dao Hoa Lu* cung t huan mien.
NhiT lua vong veo qua Thuy Dong, " "'
Ttfa vang viJng chai ngat scfn quan.
Nao dau quang canh Co do (1) trifdc,
/I i , i
(11 Co do Kinh dd nude Dai Cd Viet.
83
LA DANG BAT
Chi thay quanh co niii nUdc lien.
Hung phe ngu'di xUa coi da ro, I'A
Long dan dang sgf, chd nen quen!
Nhdt Nam Nguyen chu de. \.iS\<\ ,,.',>M\ V ,.
Be toi Id Cao Dodn vdng menh viet chiX'.
Nhd the, 5 ddng dau khle chd nhd la phin lac khoan ndi li do lam thd, 6 ddng tiep theo la bai thd Dddng luat, ddng thd 12 khle ten hieu tac gia, ddng thd 13 khle ten ngddi viet chd. (1)
Dd la chdng tich mdt bdc thdng diep van hpe vd gia -ki dc ciia nui - ldu truyen trddng ton eho cac the he mai sau, gin gid cho ngddi bao dfeu sang chdi dieu ki, da td diem, trang tri eho Xuyen Thiiy Ddng them phin cd kinh, trang nghiem, tri tue va ed hdn bdn, Dd cung la gia trj van hda the hien tai nang sang tao, kl thuat tinh xao, dieu luydn eda cac nghe nhan khle chd tren vach nui thdi xda. Bat luan thdi gian, trai qua bao dp phong sddng, mda nlng ciia dit trdi, bai thd chd Han eua Chiia Trjnh Sam khle tren vach nui vin chda he phai md da tao nen mdt tac phim dieu khle tao hinh hoan chinh cho cai dep eua Xuyen Thuy Ddng,
Neu cd mdt Fan den vdi Xuyen Thuy Ddng, ehlc bin du khach se chang mudn ddi, dl dim say trong canh nui sdng tuyet mi.
(l)Theo tu lieu cua Bao tang Ha Nam Ninh do Dang Cdng Nga cdng bo'. -j;i . K, J,..;.
84
CO EX) HOA LL;
iNgoai bai tho khle d vach nui Xuyen Thuy Ddng nay,
cdn cd bai thd Ndm "Vjnh Hang Ludn" cua Hoang Giap
Pham Van Nghj (1805 - 1881), ngddi lang Tam Dang,
nay la xa Yen Thing, huyen Y Yen, tinh Nam Dinh. Ong
dd Hoang Giap ddi vua Td Dde nen thddng gpi la Hoang
Tam Dang. (Dng da vao Ddng Lien Hoa d td thang 7 nam
1874. (Qua Xuyen Thuy Ddng mdi den Ddng Lien Hoa).
\il..ll X 'Mil ^ : l - t i . - > , - ., - l l j l i
VINH HANG LUON i
Giu'a nui, xuyen qua mot chie'c ngoi, itf
Ai xoi kheo bay, thof trcfi xoi.
Doi phen phong vu deu khong tdfi.
May Idrp Cong Hau ciing phai chui.
Horn Sach (1) da in Quang Trang(2) dii'ng,
Thach Ban (3) con dofi khach cau ngoi.
Thanh binh thu ay nao ai biet,
Ai biet xin diifng mach bao ai. • ' '' '
->•.- ' /q-T- • (1874-1880)
Xuyen Thuy Ddng nay se edn la ngudn cam hdng vd
tan cho thd ca. Ve dep huyen thoai ly da thu but du
khach nhd lac vao edi Tien, cdi Phat, lam lung linh non
' 11 i2)Hai ngon nui nay o phia ngoai Xuydn Thuy Ddng 131 Chi mot tiiini da rdng b.ang phang khi Pham Van Nghi ve a an trong
Ddng Lidn Hoa thudng ngdi eau ca a dd
85
LA DANG BAT
nddc Co Dd Hoa Ld ma thien nhien hao phdng da trao
tang.
Khi thuyen qua Xuyen Thuy Ddng, ra khdi hang, anh
sang lai ap tdi ngay dda du khach ve cdi thdc. Hay nhin
kia, mdt ngpn ndi nhd trdng gidng nhd hinh ngddi dau
dpi md each ehudn, gpi la ndi Trang Nguyen, lai ed qua
nui gdm nhdng tang da vudng vudng dai dai, tda nhd
nhidu quyen sach xep chdng len nhau, gpi la nui Hdm
Sach.
Pham Van Nghj cung cd thd vjnh nui Trang Nguyen.
TRANG NGUYEN SON
. Dgc lap khe bien thgch nhat quyen,
Nhdn hinh, ddo xu vpng y nhien.
• ' Trpng danh chi thi nhdn thu gid,
Tdt thi tien thdn ti the tien.
(1874-1880)
Djch thd:
NUI ONG TRANG
Hon niii chon von du'ng canh ngoi, V
O dau trong ciing tUa hinh ngirdfi. r.:m
W gan Horn Sach, mang ten Trang,
Trirdfc han la Tien da lanh ddfi.
(Nguyfen "Van Huyen dich t
8 6 •
CO DO HOA LU
Thien nhien tao binh, tri tddng tddng phong phu da
dang cua con ngu'di da dat ten. Nhdng dfeu quan trpng la
nhdng cai ten gpi dd mudn ndi len khat vpng cua eon
ngddi. Nui Hdm Sach, tddng trdng eho tri thdc. JSIiii
Trang Nguyen, tddng trdng cho ngddi hoc gidi dl giup
dan, giup ddi. Phai chang, thien nhien, nui non Hoa Ld
da cho du khach nhdng suy tddng nhd the! Dau phai
chi la chuyen di du ngoan, ma chinh la "Di ngay dang
hpe sang khdn".
Mdt du khach nddc ngoai di tham chua Bich Ddng d
xa Ninh Hai, huyen Hoa Ld khi ddng trddc ciifa chua
Thddng nhin xud'ng, da thiy nui "Chdng Sach", de'n day
van canh, lai thay "Hdm Sach" nda da phii thdt len:
"Ddu cung day sdeh! Mpt ddn tpc hieu hpe! Viet Nam
coi trpng tri thitc. Viet Nam, mpt kho tdng vdn hoa!".
Nhin hai qua nui "Trang Nguyen" va "Hdm Sach",
du khach se dddc nghe kl mdt truyen thuyet rat bay.
Dan dja phddng ke ring: Khi giac Minh sang xam Idde
nddc ta, chung da den day, thay ndi Trang Nguyen vl
nui Hdm Sach thi tdc lim. Chung bao nhau phai keo dd
hai ngpn nui nay de khdng edn sach va Trang nguyen
nda. Nghi vay, chung da budc chao vao cd "Ong Trang"
ma keo. Nhdng nuL Trang Nguyen khdng dd, chao bj
ddt, vang sang mdt ben lam sat mdt vat nui. td do gpi la
87
LA DANG BAT
Vung Chao. Giac Ngd (giac Minh) cdng nga theo. lam
sat ea mdt vat nui khac. td dd cdng gpi la Vung Ngd
Nga. Nhu'ng ten gpi nay hien nay dan dja phddng van
dung de gpi eac vat nui dd.
Tbam Xuyen Thiiy Ddng, tha'y may che Ip nui, cay
cdi mpe xanh tddi. hoa rdng thdm ngat, cd ddng sdng
Iddn quanh eo nhd tam lua giang luc an luc hien, lai cd
chim ea. vu'dn hdt, de keu,., hang cay tren nui ngan gid
ri rao, that la mdt canh sdn ki thuy tu. Ban hay mdt Fan
trong ddi de'n vdi Xuyen Thuy Ddng - Mdt ve dep ki thu
ma thien nhien da ban tang cho da't nddc va ngddi Hoa
Ld. 1 ' ' ' ' : ' '• / ' " f.!i : g ; : ' i ; x n j r i f l '^CSXi'lMil
'- i'i : \- i-y. ..otT" vT.rla icl .drtH'3 ntf
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• ' ' i ' :.-> . . . , " •' > • ' ( ' • ; v u * \ ' n ' l ^ -Af in \ ' j oo
• "• ' f i ' - ' ; .." ••"'''_ •'' > : ; i ' i ' ^ , ! ' : • j i u ^ i f H i j i r i / i
I"' • - '• • ' • " , ' • '" ;-; .'"lyn .iT't't ife rf-mriji ub
" ' :' ' •. liy.: '•' y. . (rr'- ,j nniAinq L'.b nk(\
' ••• ''' .'"•'•'' '"•'• "-^ft ./Af^ (I^I'MJ ^I'lid-i Ri }bijn
' ' • •"' '• ' . ! r.") ..li ,; ..uj fdj dji^a rnoH it;fi
• : „ ; j > f - - i . - - / t f
88
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'•••! (.'I..] dU) BniVl B i d «'
CHUA NHAT TRU
Du kbacb tham Cd dd Hoa Ld nen den thdn Yen Thanh, xa Trddng Yen xem chua Nha't Tru. Chua chi each den thd vua Le Dai Hanh ve phia ble gan 100 m, dddc xay ddng td thdi Tfen Le, qua nhieu lan trung tu den nay van edn kha nguyen ven. Lin trung tu gan day nha't vao nam 1992.
Ten chua lly ten cdt Kinh dl dat. "Cdt" tdc la try. Trong chiia ehi cd mdt cdt Kinh Da nen gpi la Nhat Try.
Hien nay, chua quay hddng Tay (hddng ddcfng - yen tam mdt chd), kien true theo kieu "chudi vd", phan ngang la tfen dddng nam gian, phin dpc - "chudi vd" bdn gian la ndi tham nghiem dl thd Phat. >:' :.iii-c- :\-.,-. -. vj - n
Chua dddc xay ddng bing nhdng cot gd lim. Vi, keo, xa ngang, xa dpc cdng bang gd lim. Mai fthua khdng ud'n cong nhd cac ngdi chua khac, ldp bang ngdi ta khdng cd mau, mui Iddn trdn, phia dddi la ngdi chieu. He thd'ng bd mai eua ehua chiem bai phin ba cdng trinh. Dd cung la dac trdng kien true cua chua Viet Nam.
De'n chua, di vao cdng pbia Nam, ben tren ed ba chd Han dip ndi: "Nha't Try Td" (Chua Nha't Try).
Khu vdc chiia rdng gin tam sao, dddc xay tddng bao xung quanh. Vu'dn chua trdng nhieu cay an qua, cay dai thy, cay canh, cay hoa xanh tddi lam eho canh chua nhd mdt cbdn tinh vien (vu'dn tinh mich). -u-t o uu;:
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LA DANG BAT
Ngoai chua chinh. trong khu \ai"c chua edn cd nha thd Dja Tang (Bd Tat) va thd' Miu. nhi thd Td dl thd nhdng vj tang ni ddi trddc d chua da mat. Try Tri la ndi nha sd d, Phddng Trddng la nha tiep kbacb va mdt sd thap - ndi ehdn cat cac nha sd da try tri va mat tai day. • ,,
De'n tbam chua, du khach bddc vao tien dddng (nha phia trddc) d cda ben trai. Tai day ed be thd dat tddng Ddc Ong mat do. Ddi dien ben phai tien dddng la be thd dat tddng Ddc Thanh Hien (Dd'c A Nam). Trong tien dddng cdn treo mdt qua chudng ld"n. Ll Ddc Ong xong, du khach mdi de'n ll d ban thd ehinh gida, nim d chua trong - "chudi vd". Day la chd thd Phat cd bd'n ban thd td cao xudng thip, la bd'n hang trdng bay eac tdpng Phat dddc sdn son thiep vang long lly va cac thd dd thd nhd dinh hddng, cay den...
Hang tren cung la Tam The Phat (qua khd, hien tai, vj lai). Hang thd bai la Di Da Tam Tdn. Tddng Di Da d gida. Ben phii Di Da la tdcfng Dai The Tri Bd Tat. Ben trai Di Da la tddng Quan The Am Bd Tat. Hang thd ba la hai tddng Thd Dja va Thanh Tang. Hang thd td la tda Cdu Long, tdc Thich Ca Sd Sinh - tdcfng mdt chu be ddng tren tda sen, mac quin cdn edn, tay phai chi xudng dit, tay trai chi len trdi. Xung quanh tddng nay ed chin con Rdng. Chin con Rdng ay dem toan bd nddc linh thieng cho Phat tim.
Dieu dac biet, ddc dao cua chua Nhit Try la cd mdt cdt Kinh Da ddng d phia trddc chua, hdi lui ve hddng Ble.
Day la cdt Kinh Da do vua Le Dai Hanh (980 - 1005) lam d nien hieu iTng Thien thd 2, nam 995 dl dang nha
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CO DO HOA LU
Phat, vi nha Vua r i t tin vao dao Phat, tin vao sd linh dng cua Kinh Phat.
Cdt Kinh Da cd chieu eao tinh tdtang den chdp la 4,16 m gdm sau bd phan da dddc ga lip thanh.
Bd phan thd nhit la mdt tang da hinh vudng, moi chieu 1,4 m, day 0,3m. Dieu dac biet d tang da nay la dddc cham khac mdt vdng canh sen gdm 22 canh dcfn bao quanh de cdt vdi dddng kinh vdng sen 1,07m. Canh sen thon. Co le, day la loai hoa van canh sen xuat hien sdm nhat d Viet Nam trong nghe thuat cham khic da. Hoa sen theo quan niem cua dao Phat la bilu tddng ciia cdi Niet ban, bieu hien cho tri tue, cung la bilu tddng ciia am. Vi the tang da mdi cham khle canh sen. Ld mdng ciia tang da d gida, cd dddng kinh 29 cm, sau 5,5 cm. •'
Bd phan thd hai la de trdn, tren to, dddi nhd, dddng kinh tren 76 cm, dddng kinh dddi 66 cm, cao 3,32 cm. Ben dddi de cd ngdng trdn dl vao lo mdng ciia tang da. Ben tren cung cd Id mdng.
Bd phan thd ba la than cdt, hinh bat giac (8 canh), tren to, dddi nhd bing da xanh nguyen khdi cao gan 2,4m, sd do qua tam hai mat ddi dien nhau, phia tren la 65cm, phia dddi 61-62 em. Hai dau than cdt deu ed ngdng dl elm vao de va thdt bat giae, ngdng dddi cd dddng kinh 16cm, dai 5 cm, ngdng tren cd dddng kinh 18 cm, dai 6 cm. Day la bd phan chinh cua cdt Kinh. Tam mat deu dddc mai nbln li, cham khle khoang 2.500 chd Han. Hien nay, do nddc chay da mdn, tbdi gian lam md nhieu chd d phin tren va dddi, chi cd the dpc dddc khoang 1.200 chd. Ndi dung ban
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LA DANG BAT
khac tren than cdt la khle Kinh Da La Ni, Thu Lang Nghiem va bai thin chu ca ngdi sd ben vdng cua ddc hanh Phat, sd to ldn, bao trum ciia tri tud, tai nang Phat Nhd Lai- ,{:'(ifl
Bd phan thd td la thdt bat giac cd sd do qua tam, hai mat ddi dien la 69 cm, eao khoang gin 13 cm, mat tren phlng, mat dddi ed Id mdng dl tren than cdt.
Bd phan thd nam la diu tam canh, cao 26 cm, ben tren diu cd Id mdng trdn de lip chdp.
Bd phan thd sau la chdp cd hinh mdt chie'c hd Id thdp byng, cd dai, mieng tu, cao khoang 80 em. Hien nay chdp cu da mat, dddc lam thay bing chdp khac. (1).
Sau bd phan ciia cot Kinh deu lam bang da dddc ga lip vao nhau bing cac Id mdng va ngdng trdn, khdng he cd chit ke't dinh nao. Dieu nay khang djnh sd tinh toan ti mi, rat khoa bpe eiia cac nghe nhan, ddng thdi cung chdng minh dddc loai hinh thd phap da da cd sdm d nddc ta.
Phai chang, nghe thuat cham khac da, thd phap tren da ciia nhan dan Hoa Ld da ed td lau ddi, d e b ngay nay tren 1000 nam. Day la sd hda than ciia thien nhien vao cudc sdng trong mdi trddng sinh boat van hda ciia con ngddi, trddc bet da ed d ndi eiia Phat.
Trai qua bdn mddi the ki, gid bao, lyt ldi khdng he lam cho cdt Kinh ldn, nghieng va dd. Dd cung la dieu ki dieu ciia da, ciia con ngddi, cua cdt Kinh Phat. ,.
( l)Theo tu lieu cua Dang Cdng Nga trong "Van hda Ninh Binh" sd 3 nam 1996. . . .
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Nhdng ngddi thd da Hoa Ld xda la nhdng nghe nhan tai hoa, ed long say me, thdng minh, sang tao, cd ddi ban tay vang, than trpng va keo leo da dap dng ddpc khat vpng mong mudn cua vua Le Dai Hanh va con ngddi, khien du khach phai than phye.
Chinh vi the, hai cot vudng ngoai hien tien ddcfng cua chua Nha't Try cd cau ddi chu' Han dip ndi:
"hfc nien Phat thii kim lien dien. '
Van cd Th in linh thach t ry tieu".
Tam dich:
"Hdng vgn ndm bdn tay Phat xdy dung toa sen vdng
(chiia).
TU xa xUa Than linh thieng chon cdm cpt bdng dd
• ' (cot Kinh Dd)".
Chua N h i t Try nam trong kinh thanh Hoa Ld.
Den nam 1010 Li Cdng Uan len ngdi vua, lap ra nha Li. Li Thai Td quye't dinh rdi dd td Hoa Ld den thanh Dai La (Thang Long). Sii' chep r i ng vua Li Thai Tdng (1028 -1054) n im mdng th iy Phat Quan Am ngdi tren tda sen mdi vua bddc len. Vua eho la diem gd, ben cho xay mdt ngdi chua theo hinh hoa sen de thd Phat va ciu xin ban them tudi thp. Nam 1049, chua dddc xay ddng n i m gida hd Linh Chilu (khu vdc Ba Dinh - Ha Ndi ngay nay). Bd phan chinh cua ngdi chua, hay ndi mdt each khac. ed sd cua chua la mdt cdt da hinh trdn, cd dddng kinh 1,25 met, td dddi day bd nhd len mat nddc. Tren dau try da trdn la mdt ngdi nha nho bang gd vudng vdc mdi chieu 3 met. Bd'n chie'c sdc
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LA DANG BAT
nach bing gd td gida than try da dam ra nhd nhu'ng canh cay dd lly ngdi chCia.
Co le, dl tddng niem ghi nhd Co dd Hoa Ld trong tam thdc, vua Li Thai Tdng gpi ten chda la Mdt Cdt. Sach "Dai Nam nha't thd'ng chi" cd ghi: "Do cii nhd Dinh, nhd Le.... lgi cd cdc danh hieu: Cdu Dong, Cdu Ren,... chua Thdp, chiia Nhdt Tru,... hen cu vdn cdn. Khi Li Thdi Td ddi do den Thang Long deu dung theo cdc danh hieu ay".
Ten gpi ciia hai chua gid'ng nhau, nhdng kien true va y tddng lai khac nhau. Dieu quan trpng la ten gpi "Nhit Try" vin cdn ldu lai tren dit Thang Long - Mdt sd tiep ndi, ghi nhd mdt "Kinh dd da" oanh liet, hung trang mdt thdi vang son rdc rd.
Dd eung la dao li "Udng nddc nhd ngudn", biet quy trpng qua khd hao hung eua dan tdc.
Chua Nha't Try nhd gpn va xinh xin - thang ngay vin ngan vang tie'ng chudng chua. Du khach vao day nhd den edi menh mdng ciia dit trdi, bdi vi ed cdt Kinh Da, ngoai chdc nang ghi cac Kinh nha Phat, cdn la van chuyin tai sinh ldc vu try. Nd eung la thd linh thieng. Vang, sit d chua khdng thieng. Dit nung va da mdi linh thieng. Vi the ngddi ta thddng tac cac tddng Phat va bat hddng cung cac dd thd bang da hoac da't nung.
Ngoai ve dep tao hinh, cdt Kinh Da cdn chda ddng mdt ve dep tam linh, thanh thien, tao nen mdt khung canh ciia thanh nha, rdng ldn, sau sac, linh thieng; dieu quan trpng dac biet la mang ten mpt ngdi ehua ed d Viet Nam cd each day hdn 1000 nam - Chua Nhit Try. / o-<> ^j.
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DEN THO CONG CHUA PHAT KIM
Cach chiia Nhit Try lui ve phfa Ble khoang vai chuc met, la den thd cdng chiia Phi t Kim, cdn gpi la Phii Ba Chua
Tddng truyen, den dddc xay ddng td thdi nha Dinh, sau khi cdng chua Phit Kim nhay xud'ng gieng td vin. Ddn toa lac tren hen nha ciia cung Vpng Nguyet - Ndi cdng chua Phit Kim da d nam trong kinh thanh Hoa Ld xda. Sau nhieu Fan trung tu, den nay den vin cdn kha nguyen ven, kien true theo kilu nha "chudi vd", phin ngang la 3 gian tien dddng, phin dpc "chudi vd" 2 gian, ddng bing nhdng cdt da va gd lim. 0 gian cudi cua "chudi vd" - Hau eung dat tdptig cdng ehiia Phi t Kim ngdi trong Long Cung.
Pha't Kim la mdt trong ba ngddi eon gai cua vua Dinh Tien Hoang. Cdng chiia Minh Chau dddc vua Dinh Tien Hoang ga cho tddng Trin Thang (la em rudt Trin Lam -Ngddi ddng dau mdt sd quan chie'm gid Bd Hai Khiu (Thai Binh)). Cdng chiia Phit Ngan, sau lay Dien Tien Chi Huy Sd Li Cdng Uin (ngddi sang lap ra nha Li).
Cdng chua Phit Kim dddc vua Dinh Tien Hoang ga cho Ngd Nhat Khanh - Ddng dau mdt sd quan d Dddng Lam (Sdn Tay).
Sau khi Dinh Bd Linh dep yen loan 12 sd quan, len ngoi Hoang de, da lly me Ngd Nhat Khanh lam Hoang
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LA DANG BAT
hau. Vua Dinh Tien Hoang cdn cho con trai ca eua minh
la Dinh Lien lay em gvii Ngd Nhat Khanh. Vua Dinh
Tien Hoang lam n h d vay. vi biet ddpc tai thao lu'dc cua
Ngd Nhat Khanh, ddng thdi mudn thu phyc de Ngd
Nhat Khanh khdng chdng ddi minh, khdng khdi phyc
dddc ddng hp Ngd. Didu dd the bien sd gin bd gida hai
ddng hp Ngd va Dinh. • ,.,j.:;l ^y
Nhu'ng van sd Ngd Nhat Khanh cdn cd kha nang sinh
bie'n chdng lai, nen vua Dinh Tien Hoang cdn quyet djnh
ga con gai yeu quy eua minb la cdng chua P h i t Kim cho
Ngd Nhat Khanh. Ngd Nhat Khanh da trd thanh phd
ma c:ua vua Dinh Tien Hoang. The la me, em gai va ban
than Ngd Nhat Khanh da la n h d n g ngddi g in gui than
thiet nhat eua vua Dinh Tien Hoang, thu'dng xuyen gap
nhau, lue nao cung gin bd. Cac cap vd chdng nay dan
cheo nhau trong mdt gia dinh tddng nhd khdng bao gid
chia lia ra dddc.
N h d n g Ngd Nhat Khanh "ben ngodi thi ndi cudi nhu
khong, md trong bung vdn bdt binh" (Dai Viet sd ki toan
thd), nudi chi phyc thu eho ddng hp Ngd, chd'ng lai vua
Dinh Tien Hoang.
Ngd Nhat Khanh da dem Cdng ehua P h i t Kim chay
sang Chiem Thanh. Kbi thuyen den cda bien Nam Gidi
(Ha Tinh), Ngd Nhat Khanh da mang chdi cdng chiia
Pha t Kim: "Cha mdy li/a ddi hiep trdc me eon ta, ta hd
lgi vi mdy md quen ditc tinh ciia cha mdy u? Mdy ve di,
ta di ddng khdc de tim ngudi eo the ci/u ta". (Dai Viet su"
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CO DO HOA LU
ki toan thd). Sau dd, Ngd Nhat Khanh nit gddm xeo ma cdng chua Phit Kim. Mac cho ngddi vd dau ddn, Ngd Nhat Khanh bd chay sang dau vien vua Chiem Thanh dl ve danh vua Dinh Tien Hoang.
Trddc sd phan bdi, bit nghia ciia ngddi chdng, cdng chiia Pha't Kim ri t dau budn trd ve kinh dd Hoa Ld. Chay chda thud'c thang, thit cat tren ma da lanh, nhdng vdt seo vin cdn tren mat, lam cho cdng chiia Phat Kim vd eung budn ba.
Lai mdt tin dau thdcfng vd ban ap de'n lam cdng chiia Phit Kim bang hoang, dau ddn: Vua cha va ngddi anh ca Dinh Liln bj am hai.
Ngay sau dd, "Pho md Ngo Nhat Khdnh ddn hcfn nghin chiec thuyen thuy qudn cua Chiem Thdnh vdo cUdp bde, muon ddnh thdnh Hoa Lu qua hai cUa bien Dgi Ac (Nghia Hung, Nam Dinh) vd Tieu Khang (Yen Mo, Ninh Binh). Qua mpt dim gap gio ldn noi len, thuyen deu chim ddm. Nhdt Khdnh vd ngitdi Chiem deu chet dudi, duy co thuyen cda vua Chiem dugc troi ve nitdc". (Dai Vidt suf ki toan thd).
"Hpa vd ddn chi", bao dau ddn, tiii nhye da den cung mdt luc, lam cho cdng chiia Phi t Kim that vpng. Phit Kim da nhay xudng gieng nddc d Fau Vpng Nguyet nam d phia Bic kinh dd Hoa Ld td van.
Chie'c gieng dd ngay nay vin edn, d ngay trddc ciia den. Gidng ed dddng kinh 5 met, xay hinh bat nguyet (8 canh). Gieng khdng bao gid can, nddc luc nao cung trong
97 7a-CDHL
LA DANG BAT
vat nhd lpc, th i hien mdt tam long trung hieu sang trong ciia cdng chua Phi t Kim, tha chet chd khdng chju tbeo giac chdng lai vua cha.
Den nam d day tren hen eung Vpng Nguyet, cd gid'ng nddc ngan nam van cdn dd. Am dddng ddi dai, den cao, gieng sau nhd khang djnh mdt ngddi cdng chiia "Tidt liet trung trinh" ciia vua Dinh Tidn Hoang, ddng thdi cung la mdt trong nhdng di tich cdn lai ciia kinh dd Hoa Ld xda.
f i j : ; ' (is? , ." . >
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. ' l i ..;•• ''-•; :,'v>\ ' ix t .u^ 1'
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lt\i:i J'.n.\
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CO DO HOA LU
DONG HOA SON
Td Cau Huyen thude xa Ninh Ml, theo ddcfng Tien Yet vao Cd dd Hoa Ld, qua Quen Oi khoang 2 km tdi phu Thanh Hoang, re trai chdng 1 km, du khach se de'n ddng Hoa Sdn, Ddng Hoa Sdn d thdn Ang Ngu, xa Ninh Hda, huyen Hoa Ld, Day la mdt trong nhdng ddng dep ciia tinh Ninh Binh,
Ddng d ldng chdng qua nui Chua thudc day nui phia Ddng Nam kinh thanh Hoa Ld xda.
Mud'n tham ddng, du khach phai bddc theo 153 bac da, len dp cao ^ n 60 met so vdi chan nui. Ldi len ddng ed nhieu cay cd thy, tan la sum sue, tddi xanh, phong cinh em diu, mat me. Trddc day cd cay Da Ba cao bing dinh nui, than to, dddng kinh ^ n 3 met, phu rdp mpt 'khoing sddn nui rdng. Cang len eao, khdng khi cang trd nen thoang nhe. Dddng nhd nui cao da thanh lpc bui bam ciia cudc ddi dl du khach thanh than bddc vao cdi Bdng lai, Tien canh ndi day.
Ddng hddng Ddng. Ddng trddc cda ddng, du khach se cd djp ngim nhin toan d n h thien nhien cd non eao, ddng tham, sdng ngdi mi le. Thien nhien nhd da du ai rieng chd'n nay dl che chd, bao ve hoang tdc nha Dinh each day hdn 10 thd ki. .• ^ ., j , , . ,, ;,
Tdcfng truyen, thdi nha Dinh, ddng la ndi nudi Au Chiia. Cho nen ddng cd ten la "Phdi Sinh Td" Nhan dan vung
99 7b-CDHL
LA DANG BAT
nay quen gpi la "Chua Ba De ", Dpng da hinh thanh td xa xda. Nhan dan 0 day thay ddng dep da lay dpng lam chua thd Phai. Dpng chinh la mdt "ngdi ehua" thien tao. Ddng cao sau nen "'chua" cang rdng ldn. Cd le. day la mdt ngdi "ehua" \Tj'ng chai da cd td rat sdm d Ninh Binh. "Ngdi nha Bao tang" td nhien nay cd nhieu pho tddng dep va nhu'ng nhu da ki thu. Thien nhien va ngu'di xda da eung nhau tao ddng mdt tac pham nghe thuat dieu ki ma khiem tdn. In minh trong mdt vung non nddc so'n thuy hd'u tinh cua Cd d d H o a L d . ' • • • ' • " ' M ^ - • • ' • ' = i • - -
Trddc eiia ddng, d ben phai cd hai pho tdcfng bang da dddc danh bdng nbln thd hai dng ba cd cdng tu sda chiia, ten la Nguyin Hd'u Non va Le Thj Sanh. Tddng dng Nguyen Hdu Non ngdi theo the nha Phat, tay phai elm chie'c quat gily mo ra trddc ngdc. tay trai dl tren dui. Tren cd tddng ba Le Thi Sanh deo trang hat, hai ban tay de dddi trang hat. Tdcfng truyen, day la bai pho tddng quy hiem. Van bia khle d vach nui phia ben trai eho biet dng Nguyen Hdu Non va ba Le Thi Sanh sda chiia nam At Hdi - Gia Long thd 14 (1815). • . -T-T;'! nud.t fliTHftt n- o
Tddng truyen, vao thdi Nguyin, vua Td Dde trong chuyen tiian du ra Bic Ha, nghe ddn d day cd "chua" dep da ghe tham. Nha vua vao ddng ll Phat, thiy ddng ki ao nen da ddi ten ddng thanh "Hoa Sdn Ddng". Td day ddng dddc gpi la "Ddng Hoa Sdn" hay "Chua Hoa Sdn". Nha vua cdn lenh eho quan sd tai tap hdp cac ngdi md thudc Hoang tdc nha Dinh va nhdng ngddi cd cdng vdi trieu Dinh, cho xay lang Nghia Chung d khu dit rdng chdng 3 miu. Hien
^°° . • iHOO-d^
CO DO HOA LU
nay, lang Nghia Chung xay bang da van cdn, nim d phi'a Ddng Nam, each ddng Hoa Sdn chdng 150 met. Nha vua cung truyen cho quan sd tai d p 2 mau rudng d phia Ddng Ble ddng, giao cho nhan dan dja phddng trdng d y hang nam, lay lddng thdc de cung te trong chua. gpi la rudng Phu Td.
Cda ddng Hoa Sdn cd may vdn, sddng phii linh thieng, nddc rdi ti tach quanh nam td cac nhu da. Khi binh minh anh len, vach nui cda ddng la mdt mau tim nhat, thdc mP huyen dieu bao phii. Day chinh la cda tien cua ddng, chieu ngang dai 12 met, chieu cao khoang 20 met, cd cay Da Ba, re tha trddc cda ddng trdng rat dep. Ben trai eda tfen ed chiec khanh da to, gd vao nghe trim bdng ngan nga nhd tie'ng chieng, • -. -:.
r • r
Net ddc dao ciia ddng Hoa Sdn la chieu dai ciia ddng bang chieu ngang eda nui, dai khoang 100 met, xuyen qua nui, cd 3 hang lien nhau, tam d p , td tha'p len eao la: hang Ha, hang Trung va hang Thdcfng.
Vao cda tfen, bddc len cao gin 3 met mdi den bang Ha. Hang Ha chinh la "mdt ngdi chua" thien tao. O day thd Phat, cd nhieu tddng Phat nhd: Tam the. Thien phu Thien nhdn, Phat ba Quan am, Quan am Thi Kinb, Ddc dng, Ddc Thanh hien. Ddc Thd dia. Ddc Thanh tang.. . va hai tu'p'ng Hd Phap cao to ddng sdng sd'ng hai ben. edn gpi la hai tddng Kim Cu'dng hay Ong Thien va Ong Ae (khuyen thien va trd ae). Tdpng dng Thien tay elm qua dao trddng thp nhd mudn ban cho du khach lam nhieu dieu thien de dddc tru'dng sinh. Tddng dng Ac tay d m thanh gu'dm nhd mud'n
101
LA DANG BAT
trdng trj nhdng ke sdng bac ac d tren dd'i. Tit ca cac bat hddng d "chua" deu lam bing da. Cd mdt nbangan da cham khle "lddng long chiu nguyet".
Vach hang ben trai treo mdt qua chudng nho due td khi lap "chda". Mdt eau ddi d "chiia" da mieu ta ve ddng nhd sau:
. "Canh tu anh linh thien cd tai. • •
"i: •• Hoa Sdn tien ddng de nien tien".
(Cdnh dep thieng lieng tU thien co. ...' :.-'•• ' r / l / f l
Dpng Hoa Son eo tU ngdn ndm trUdc).
Hai ben "chua" la hai ldi di len bang Trung, Du kbacb bddc len 10 bac da, cao gan 6 met la den hang Trung, Mac du hang Ha va hang Trung lien nhau nhdng eiia bang Trung van thdt lai, Vao hang Trung la mdt d n h sic thien tao tuyet vdi.
Hang Trung gidng nhd mdt ngdi nha vdm eao rdng, ed chieu cao khoang tren 30 met. Trin hang la nhu'ng khdi da hinh vdm nhim li nhd danh bdng. Tran va thanh hang ben trai cd mdt sd nhu da. Ndi nay nhd dam may ngu sic, ndi kia nhd rdng bay, phddng mua. Cdn day la voi chau, hd phue, sd td nim. Vdi tri tddng tddng phong phd, thi hien mdt cai nhin tri tue, ed gia trj tham mi va nhan van, du khach se cd ngay nhdng nhu da de dat ten, mdi ten gpi ghi nhan mdt tac phim nghe thuat dieu khle tii hoa ciia tao hda, cua thdi gian tren da, gdi hinh, gdi cam, day sdc quyen ru ma khdng mdt ban tay nao cua eon ngddi cd thi lam dddc. Cd the ndi, day la mdt "Cung dien" long lly, nguy nga nhd trong cac truyen thin thoai khien du khach
102
CO DO HOA LU
cd cam giae t h i n bi nao dd. Gin cudi hang Trung ve phia
tay trai, du kbacb nhin tha'y mdt khdi nhu da ldn rat gid'ng
dng But ngdi uy nghiem. Nhdng gipt nddc d trong ddng
hang nghin van nam kien nhan deo gpt lam nen ki cdng
dd. Ta't ea deu lunh linh trong nhdng dang hinh sinh ddng.
Td hen hang Trung neu ddng da giao se len dddc t r i n hang
va bddc vao mdt hang nda n im tren dinh hang Trung.
Hang nay cung rdng va dai deu la nhdng vdm da n h i n li
tao thanh.
Td hang Trung bddc len dp cao hdn 8 met nda mdi de'n
hang Thu'dng. Hang Thddng nho hdn, eda hang d phfa Tay
lai tha'p, ehi cao b ing dau ngddi. Bddc len eao gan 2 met
nda, du khach mdi ra dddc cda hau hinh loe, nho bdn eda
tien. Nen cda hau la mdt ldp da phang, cd dp cao so vdi
chan nui khoang tren 100 met, khdng ed ldi xud'ng nui.
Ddng d day, du khach phdng tam m i t ra xa la thay nhdng
d n h ddng Ida xanh mddt va day nui Trddng Sdn t rung
diep nhap nhd xam nhat. Qua 11 cd di len eao Jan, ve dep
than tien lai hien them ra.
Ddng Hoa Sdn la ddng xuyen qua nui nen luc nao eung
cd sddng sa, gid thdi. Trong ddng mua he mat me, mua
ddng lai am ap. Ddng lue nao eung ed khdi hddng nghi
ngut. sang tdi md ao, hd hd, thdc thdc, hda quyen vdi cac
pho tddng Phat cung con ngu'di. dan xen vdi "than tien",
"mudng thu". Du kbacb den day tam linh nhd dddc trd ve
vdi cdi ngudn ma kham pha ra chinh minh de hda nhap
vdi thien nhien thanh tao, cao khiet, d l rdi ch i t ngl t , d im
say, cd nhdng giay phut t inh lang thieng lieng.
103
LA DANG BAT
Ddng Hoa So'n khdng nhu'ng la mdt danh thang ndi
tie'ng ma cdn gin lien vd'i phong trao da'u t ranh each mang
cua Dang bp va nhan dan Ninh Binh.
Trddc each mang thang Tam. giae Phap truy lung eac
ehie'n si boat ddng each mang. khung bd cac than nhan
eiia hp. Ong Td'ng Van Quyen la than sinh ddng chi Td'ng
Van Tran - chien si each mang. que d huyen Y Yen, tmh
Nam Dinh - da cung 3 ngdd'i con gai va con dau la ba
Nguyen Thj Tuyen (vd dng Tdng Van Tran) khoac ao ca
sa tu hanh d dpng Hoa Sdn.
Trong khang chien chd'ng thdc dan Phap, ddng Hoa
Sdn dddc chpn la ndi d cua Bd ehi buy quan sd eua bai
ehie'n djch ldn la ehie'n dich Quang Trung va Tay Nam
Ninh Binh. Tmh uy Ninh Binh da hdi hpp, lam viec tai
day. Ddng chi Dd Mddi, khi dd la Bi thd Tinh uy Ninh
Binh da thddng xuyen lam viec va hdi hpp d trong ddng.
Chinh vi the, la t hd "Than gui cac ddng ehi trong ban
bao ve di t ich Ijch sd thdn Ang Ngu, xa Ninh Hda" ngay
16 thang 11 nam 1987 (khi dd dng Dd Mddi dang lam Tdng
Bl t h d Ban chap hanh Trung ddng Ding cdng san Viet
Nam), da viet: , ns ..n'r -fin .
"Di tich Hoa Son mdi mdi Id mpt sdn phdm tinh than
mang truyen thong vdn hoa vd cdch mgng ciia cha ong cho
cdc the he mai sau".
Ddng Hoa Sdn cd canh dep me hdn, ai chda de'n xin hay
den mdt Fan va den rdi ehlc se nhd mai cai tuyet mi, tru'dng
ton cua tao hda d ndi nay.
104
CO DO HOA LU
DONG THIEN TON
Du khach td Ha Ndi xudi phia Nam theo dddng qud'c
Id lA khoang hdn 90 km, den nga ba Cau Huyen re phai
vao dddng Tien Yet (dddng di tham Cd dd Hoa Ld) hdn
mia km thay chd ngoat, lai re phai 50 met nda la tdi
ddng Thidn Tdn. .,.„,;. , . , ;, ; • ,., •.., ,„, -
Ddng Thien Tdn d chan nui Dung Dddng cao khoing
60 met, quay hddng Nam thudc thdn Da Gia, xa Ninh
MI, huyen Hoa Ld, tinh Ninh Binh. • ' icu :^_y^ y •••<.•
Toan bd khu vdc ddng Thien Tdn gdm ^ n 2 mau 4
sao, trong dd ed khoang 6 sao la nui. Day la mdt phong
canh thien nhien trong lanh, yen a, mat me. Vddn rdng,
cd rat nhieu cay an qua, cay dai thy la canh xanh tdt.
Nhieu loai chim truyen bay td canh np sang canh kia,
tie'ng keu riu rit, lam cho du khach ed cam giae nhd
dang lac vao cdi Bdng lai, Tien canh. -f •.•r,„,.i :; .,
0 gida vddn cay xanh biec, ndi len mdt Phdcfng Dinh
cao to, xay toan bing da thdde, pbia Ble va pbia Nam dl
ba cda cudn cao rdng, tran dddc lam bing gd lim,
Phddng Dinh la ndi hdi ty cua cac thien nam tin nd den
td chdc d c budi te ll d day. Lui len hddng Ble Phdcfng
Dinh vai chye met la phii thd Mau. xay ddng theo kilu
105
LA DANG BAT
"chudi vd". Ba gian ngoai la Tien Dddng. cac cdt vudng
deu lam b i n g da xanh ngxiyen khdi. Hau Cung (chudi vd)
thd Li lu Hanh cdng chua.
Dddng vao dpng Thien Tdn di theo phia Tay Phddng
Dinh va phu thd Miu. Qua day nha nghi d ben tay trai
du khach la hai cdt ddng try cao. xay tren hen d i t sat
chan nui. G in cpt ddng try phia ben tay phai du khach
(ben D$ng dddng) 11 mieu thd Ngu Phddng (Ddng. Tay,
Nam, Ble va Trung). Qua cdt ddng try, ben tay trai du
khach cd mdt con sd td da. dau quay hddng Bic, dai 1,2
met. Tiep dd la Nha Bia. ddng b ing bd'n cdt da, tam mai
udn cong, hai t ing , ldp ngdi. Trong Nha Bia dat bia da
ldn t ren ldng con rua da dai 2 met, rdng 1,4 met. Tddng
truyen, trddc day rua da de trong ddng, sau dd dem ra
dat bia. Bia lam d thdi Nguyen, kh le chd Han, mat tien
ghi cdng ddc nhdng ngddi eung tien xay ddng ddng, mat
sau ghi sd tich t h i n Thien Tdn.
Ddi dien vdi Nha Bia la cdng da vao ddng Thien Tdn,
mai ldp ngdi, hai tang, ben tren d ip ndi ba chd Han:
"Dung Ddcfng Sdn" la ten gpi eua nui nay cd ddng Thien
Tdn. "Dung" la nddc chay t d tren xud'ng. "Dddng" la
can lai, c h i n lai. "Sdn" la nui.
T d thud xa xda. ndi eastd nay, trdi mda tao thanh
ddng nddc chay t d tren dinh xud'ng, dpi t h i n g vao da,
nam nay qua nam khac. hang trieu trieu nam, da va
vm
CO DO HOA LU
ddng nddc vi dai da lam nen gieng Tien trong rudt nui, nddc gieng Tien lai chiy qua ldng dat di ra sdng, ra biin (1). Td khi phat hien ra ddng, trong ddng ed gieng Tifen, ngddi ta gpi nui nay la Dung Dddng Sdn hay Vu Dddng Sdn. Ten gpi nay cdn bit ngudn td mdt huyen thoai ve vj thin Thien Tdn tu luyen d nui Dung Dddng ben Trung Qud'c (xem doan sd tich th in Thien Tdn d
• d d d i ) . ' '"' '^f- - •
Bddc qua cdng vao, du khach se choang ngdp trddc mdt hang da thien tao cao dii, vdng cung, trdng gid'ng nhd mieng mdt con rdng khdng Fd cd dii ham tren vl ham dddi, gpi la hang ngoai. Vach da cao chenh venh dua ra, trdng nhd hinh "ban mai" dai 33 met, nhfeu nhu da chiy, cd chd nhd nhdng cai mdc ngin dai. .Mdt sd rl d y budng thdng, quan quyt trdng nhd d c bdc rem trang tri. Vach da tao thanh ham tren ciia mieng rdng. Dieu ddc dao la, td chan vach da d e b 13 met ve hddng Nam lai cd nhdng khdi da ldn, cao dai ^ n bing vach da, chin toln bd vach da, nen mdi lam thanh hang dddc. Nhdng nhdng khdi da nay chin khdng kin, cd khoang Id thien deu, vda du, cung vdi hen hang bing phlng lat da xanh, hai dau Ddng Tay cd ldi thdng ra ngoai, nen trdng nhd ham dddi mieng rdng. Nhd the "mieng rdng" khdng ngam, luc nao cung nhd he md hdi eddi. Cho nen hang
(1) Theo tu lidu ciia Hoang Giap d Vien nghien ciiu Han Ndm trong bai "Ddng Thidn Tdn" - Tap ehi "Van hda Thd thao Ninh Binh" - Sd I - Nam 1993.
107
LA DANG BAT
ngoai cdn gpi la hang Sang. Rat hiem cac hang ddng trdng gidng mieng rdng nhd the. rTtr • •.M'ii..i • r'ft
Dien tich hen hang ngoai rdng khoang 400 m2, cd sdc chda hang tram con ngddi.
Chinh gida hang ngoai cd mdt ciia hang hdi trdn, eao khoang 2 met. Dd la ciia hang trong an sau vao rudt niii, tao thanh "chudi vd". Vi ciia hang hep, nen hang trong tdi om, cdn gpi la hang Tdi.
Neu hang ngoai la mieng rdng thi hang trong chinh la hpng cua con rdng, Nhd the ddng Thien Tdn cd hai ldp hang, ben ngoai rdng, ben trong hep, hinh thanh mieng va hpng cua mdt con rdng da nhin ve phdcfng Nam, '.,.• !•.. , .-!.-.-: ,a nf, - '• •'•
Td hang ngoai, du khach hay xem d e dd thd va each bai tri tddng Phat d trong hang.
Gida hang ngoai, gan cufa hang trong cd mdt hddng an da cao 1,2 met, dai 1,4 met, rdng 0,9 met, ba mat cham ndi dddng net hoa van va td linh (long, li, quy, phddng), lddng long chiu nguyet, phddng chiu, phddng miia... Dddng net cham khle gidng nhd hddng an gd, tham chf ed phin edn tinh vi, sic sao hdn. Dd ,11 mdt hddng an ngoan myc lam d thdi Nguyin, d e b ngay nay tren 100 nam. Tren hddng an, phia ngoai dat hai ldc binh da, d gida dl mdt bat hddng da, dddng kinh 40 cm, cham khic lddng long chiu nguyet. .{,;
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CO DO HOA LU
Sau hddng an da la an thd da cao 0,5 met, tren cung dl mdt bat hddng da. Hai ben an thd da d m truy da va phu nguyet da deu dddc cham khle cdng phu, ti mi. Gin ciia hang trong, sau an thd da lai cd mdt be thd ldn lam bang da xanh nguyen khdi, dang hinh ^ n vudng, mdi c^nh dai 1,2 met, cao 0,9 met, nang trfen 1 tin, bdn tr&n cung dl bat hUtmg da va cac dd thd khac bing da.
Vach da bdn tr§n cufa ddng trong, dddc cham khle ndi ba chd Han ldn: "Thien Tdn Ddng", trdng gidng nhd bdc dai td. ,
.y. ' .JJ i .1
Sat hai vach da, ddi didn nhau td ciia hang trong dddc xay d c bd thd bing gach chay dai hai ben, tren dat 18 vi La Han, gpi la thap bat La Han, de tac bing da dddc sdn son thidp vang. Vach da phia Ddng cdn xay be thd dl hai tddng ldn ^ n nhau la hai dng Nam Tao va Ble Diu trdng coi vide sinh, tii ciia con ngddi.
Vach da phia Tay, d tren cao treo mdt qua chudng ldn nang gan 3 ta, due td ddi vua Le Hien Tdng, nien hieu Canh Hdng (1740 - 1786). Phii chang, hang ngoai thd Phat, cd treo chudng va la mdt "ngdi chiia" thien tao?
Xem xong hang ngoai, du khach di vao hang trong, gpi la hang Tdi, ngay cda hang, sau be da thd la mpt Long Dinh lam toan bing da. Bd'n cdt da trdn d bd'n gdc cao 2,2 met deu cham khic ndi rdng may quan quanh cdt. Nhin nhdng con rdng mem mai ndi rd, nbln bdng nhd mai dm vao than cdt, trdng dep tuyet vdi, du khach se cd d m giac nhd chda tdng dddc nhin thay d dau. Mai
109 8 -CDHL
LA DANG BAT
Long Dinh vdng cung dp xudng eung lam bing da. hai xa,
ben bang da cham khle thanh hai eon rdng. Dae biet la
hai ben Long Dinh d dddi dy'ng hai eon rdng da ban
than, cham khle thdng phong, than ca chudi, mat ldi,
chan nam mdng, theo kilu rdng nha Li, trdng r i t dep.
Pbia sau Long Dinh cdn dat bde van da cham ndi hai
eon rdng chiu mat nguyet.
Dfeu ddc dao d ddng Thien Tdn la tat d eac dd thd
deu lam bing da va nhdng con rdng dddc cham khle chii
yeu theo kilu rdng thdi Li uyen chuyin, mem mai, dang
thanh tu, tao nha. Dddng net cham khle tren da rit
tinh vi, tinh te nhdng sdng ddng la thddng. Dd la nhdng
khdi da cd hdn, th i hien tai nang, sang tao, tri thdng
minh va ddi bin tay vang ciia d c nghe nhan thdi xda.
Hp da thdi hdn vao da, hdn ciia da cung bay bdng nhd
hdn ngddi, d't len tieng ndi rieng cua da. Da la nhdng
hien vat viing ben ludn ludn thach thdc vdi thdi gian va
thdi tie't mdi ton tai, trddng sinh, bat tii d trong cac
hang ddng dddc. Day eung la mpt net van hda ddc dao d
vung dit Co dd Hoa Ld Ijch sii.
Trong tda Long Dinh da, chi dat mdt tddng thin Thien Tdn bing ddng dang dam da, cao 1,7 met, nang khoang 350 kg, ddng tren ldng con rda. O cd con rua cd mdt eon rin tr ing (bach xa) dang ngdc diu nhin ldn. Tddng dddc trang tri bing nhieu mau sic rdc rd: mat tring, mdi son, may xanh, mat sang, minh mac ao bao
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CO EX3 HOA LU
dd, dau dpi mu kilu dao si, chan di hai tring dap quy, xa (rua, rin) trdng rat uy nghiem.
Hai tay thin dl trddc ngdc, nim ehlc dd'c kiem thin, chdng mui kiem xudng ldng eon rua.
^ Neu nhd hang ngoai la "ngdi ehua ldn" thd Phat, thi hang trong la Hau Cung - "chudi vd" chi dl mdt tda Long Dinh da thd tddng thin Thien Tdn. Vi the ddng du'de gpi la ddng Thien Tdn, ndi Dung Dddng dddc gpi la nui Thien Tdn, ehua d day eung dddc gpi la chiia Thien Tdn. Ngddi ta da lly ten thin dl gpi ddng, chua, nui vung nay. Cung bdi le dd cai ten "Dung Ddcfng Sdn" it ngddi bie't den.
Thien Tdn la ten gpi nhdng vj than tdi eao d tren Thien dinh.
Theo quan niem ciia ngddi xda, tren trdi cd nhieu Thien Tdn. Ngdi cao nha't la Tam Thanh Nguyen Thuy Thien Tdn. Sau dd la Dieu Lac Thien Tdn, Dang Ma Thien Tdn.
Truyen thuye't kl rang, khi xda Huyen Thien Thddng De Dang Ma Thien Tdn do cd ldng tham, mud'n chiem doat cay dao tien ed bay mau sic, chieu sang khip vu try, nen bj Ngpc Hoang day xudng tfan gian tu luyen. Thin da dau thai nhieu kiep de tu luyen, nhdng vin khdng die dao. Sau dd thin dau thai lam Hoang tiif d Tjnh Lac Qud'c. Khi ldn len, Hoang td quye't djnh bd Fau vang dien ngpc va trieu dinh di vao Vu Ddcfng Sdn (Dung Dddng Sdn) d Trung Qud'c de tu luyen. Lan nay.
111
LA DANG BAT
t h in die dao. Ngpc Hoang ben sai Dieu I ae Thien Tdn va hai thien thin nda xud'ng nui Dung Ddolig du'a Hoang td ve trdi. Hai thien th in phai md byng Hoang td lly bet rudt, tim phdi ra rdi vu't vao khe da, dl trong byng Hoang td khdng cdn nhd bin d tran gian nda. Hoang td ve Trdi dddc Ngpc Hoang trao cho an ngoc; kiem thi|tT, phong lam Ngpc Hd Sd Tddng, Huyen- Thien Thu'dng De, Kim Khuyet hoa than Dang Ma Thien Tdn. Sau dd Ngpc Hoang sai Dang Ma Thien Tdn xud'ng tiian gian trd diet ydu ma.
Lai ndi, sau khi Hoang td die dao ve trdi, thi tim phoi viit vao khe da lai hda thanh quy tinh (rua), rudt bien thanh xa tinh (rin). Riia va r in chuyen di gay hai d vung nui Vu Dddng (Trung Qudc). Day la hai con vat ddc hai do chinh Dang Ma Thien Tdn gay ra. Vi vay vide trddc tien ciia th in la phai dung kiem thin thu phuc quy tinh va xa tinh theo minh. Rin va rua biet dddc tdi ldi nen da hang phyc thin. Thin phong rin lam Hda thin, phong rua lam Thuy thin. Td dd Hoa thin va Thiiy th in ludn d bdn canh Dang Ma Thien Tdn dl trCf diet yeu ma.
Thin cdn dddc gpi la thin Chan Vu, thin Trin Vu, Ong Ble, thddng quen gpi la Thien Tdn hay Trin Vu Thien Tdn (Huyen Thien Thddng De).
,iJl
Thin Thien Tdn la thien thin, bieu tddng cho sdc manh vd bien trd diet yeu ma cdu giup dan chung. Sach "Chan Vu quan lye" cd ghi ve thin nhd sau: "Trdi dot
112
CO DO HOA LU
hon dpn, truyen phdp gido chu, tu chan ngp dgo gidc ngp qudn me, pho hue chung sinh, tieu trU tai ngn, cd 82 phep bien hoa, td sU tam gido, dgi tU dgi bi, citu kho citu ngn".(l)
Sd tich huyen thoai thin Thien Tdn d Trung Qud'c da sang Viet Nam. Thin cung trd thanh vj thin eua ngddi Viet Nam. Cho nen nhan dan vung nay da thd thin ddng trong tda Long Dinh d ddng nui Dung Dddng.
Than khdng chi dddc thd d day, ma cdn dddc thd d nhieu ndi khac trong ca nddc ta nhd: ' ' 'Wl ' 'I'i'* ^^^AI
— Chan Vu Quan d phddng Tnic Bach, quan Ba Dinh, Ha Ndi.
— Huyen Thien Cd Quan d phddng Ddng Xuan, quan Hoan Kid'm, Ha Ndi. , .UTV- •,w,/•.
— Huyen Thien Dai Quan d xa Xuan Ldi, huyen Ddng Anh, Ha Ndi,
— Den Trin Vu d xa Yen Cd, huyen Gia Ldc.
— Den Ong Bic d thj xa Long Xuyen, tinh An Giang.
Cf nhdng ndi nay, tddng thin dddc tac d td the ngdi, tay chd'ng len kid'm, mdi kiem dat tren ldng rua, r in quan len than kiem. Day la td the dpc than chu sau khi thin da diet trd xong toan bd yeu ma d trin gian. (2)
Ngay 3 thang 3 (am Ijch) la ngay sinh ciia thin. *' *
(1) l2)Theo tu lidu eua Hoang Giap o Vidn nghidn cuu Han Ndm trong bai "Ddng Thidn Tdn" - Tap ehi "Van hda The thao Ninh Binh" -Sd I - Nam 1993
113
LA DANG BAT
Ngay 9 thang 9 la ngay hoa cua thin.
Ngay 25 thang chap la ngay thin xud'ng tr in gian
xem xet cdng, tdi cua con ngddi dl ban phuc hay trj tdi
(1). Nhu'ng ngay dd la nhdng ngay nhan dan td chdc te
ll ldn d trong ddng.
Tdcfng truyen, ddng Thien Tdn thd thin Thien Tdn
td thdi Thye An Ddcfng Vddng (257 trddc cdng nguyen).
Thdi xda, tddng thin lam bing gd, sau tac bing da. Den
nam Quy Dau (1875), ddi vua Td Ddc (1848 - 1883) thdi
Nguyin mdi due tddng ddng. Tam bia da d ngoai cda
ddng da khic bai ki ciia Hoang giap Pham Van Nghj
(1805 - 1881) ndi ve dieu dd.
"Nude Nam ta thd tKdn (Thien Ton Trdn VU) tU thdi
An Duang Vitang. Than trit diet yeu ma, duac xep vdo
bde nhdt danh than. Tgi dpng nui Vu Ducfng San (Ddng
Ducfng San) xd Da Gid Hg, huyen Gia Viin, tinh Ninh
Binh (nay la thon Da Gid, xd Ninh Mi, huyen Hoa Lu),
trudc ddy co tugng De qudn bang gd tay chdng len kiem,
ehdn dgp ten riia vd rdn. Phia Dong eo ngoi den thd rat
linh Ung.
Miia xudn ndm Quy Ddu (1875) xd ndy due tucfng dong, mpi viec tot dep. Miia dong hp nhd toi ldm bdi ki.
(1) Theo tu lieu cua Hoang Giap d Vidn nghien eijfu Han Ndm trong bai "Ddng Thien Tdn" - Tap ehi "Van hda Thd thao Ninh Binh" - Sd I - Nam 1993.
114
CO DO HOA LU
Tdi khao cUii su tich ldm bdi vdn khde vdo dd de truyen lgi ldu ddi".
Xem xong tda Long Dinh va tddng thin Thien Tdn d ngay eda hang, du khach hay thip nen di vao hang trong, nhin len tha'y trin hang cao vdi vdi, vdng cung, khdng bing phlng. Dien tich hen hang hdi trdn, nen du khach cd cam giae dang dddc ddng trong mdt qua chudng da khdng Id up xud'ng. Anh sang trong hang huyen ao, chda day dieu bi an. Be ngang cua hang 11 met, be dpc dai hdn, khoang 15 met.
Td Long Dinh da. du khach di khoang hdn 10 met, tha'y mdt eai gieng trdn, phia Ble 11 vach da; phia Nam xay bao lan, d gida cd bac xud'ng lam bang gach dai 3 met, gpi la "Gieng Rdng", sau tham tham, quanh nam cd nddc. Nddc gieng lai trong vlt, an thdng ra de'n sdng Gian. Ngddi xda da lly mdt qui bdng to cd elm them con dao bau nhd vao de danh da'u, rdi tha xud'ng gieng nay, may ngay sau thiy qua bdng dd trdi d nga ba sdng Gian. Do vay dan gian cdn ldu truyen: :-rir^".
"Trong dpng cd tugng De qudn, • "'^ '• "'' '
Cd cdi gieng nude nhieu phdn hiem sdu. 1 K:Uii
/ I J l i j
Don rdng bdng cdm dao bdu, - , ., , ;, Troi ra song Gidn phdi ddu chuyen diia". •'"•' •
Hang trong ed Gieng Rdng, nddc edn dddc chay n ^ m dddi long dit dai hang miy d y sd dd ra sdng Gian, Hang ngoai lai cd khoang Id thien dai, nhin thiy trdi cao. Dd
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LA DANG BAT
chinh la dieu tuyet dieu cua tao hda da tao ra am dddng ddi dai. ed sang, ed tdi, cd cao, ed sau. Den thieng, chiia td't bao gid cung hai hda nhd the.
Tran, thanh ddng, dac biet la vach ddng ben tren Gieng Rdng, ed nhieu nhu da dep vdi d e hinh dang nhd: Tam da, Tam bao, d rdng, rdng bay trong may, nang tien, cdng ehua, con sd td, con hd chiu ve tdcfng Thin, eon ba ba, eung dan ca dang ru nhau xud'ng Gieng Rdng... Thien nhien da miet mai bao ddi dl lam nen nhdng tuyet tac nhd vay. Dddng net cham khle cua tao hda that tai hoa, sac sao, vda phdng khoang, vda tia tdt de'n td'ng chi tie't, khien con ngu'di khdng the nao lam dddc. Dd la nhdng "vach gam", nhu'ng mang dieu khle nghe thuat cua thdi gian tren da.
Vao mua mda, nddc td d c nhu da deu dan nhd rdi ti tach nghe nhd tie'ng dan thanh thdt, tao nen ban nhac ki thu d trong ddng.
Tddng truyen, d trong ddng Tdi nay td thdi xa xda ngddi Tau den day cbdn d't nhfeu vang bac, sau dd da lly di, Cac nha phong thiiy thi cho ring, ndi day cd huyet "de vddng", do ben ta Dung Dddng Sdn ed long thiiy din mach, ben hdu cd Tddng Sdn (nui Voi) din mach, Vi the nhan dan dia phddng cdn ldu truyen mdt truyen thuye't ve Cao Bien, •i ' '"
Thdi Dddng (Trung Qud'c), cd mdt vien quan, ddng thdi la mdt phap sd sang cai tri nddc ta ten la Cao Bien, thddng eddi dieu giay bay di xem xet nhdng ndi cd huyet
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CO DO HOA LU
"de vdcfng", lien dung d e b yem triet pha long mach. Cao Bien qua Dung Dddng Sdn thay gid'ng nhd Vu Dddng Sdn d Trung Qud'c, tin la ed huyet "de vu'dng" tai ndi nay, Mud'n yim triet, Cao Bien eho ddng tddng Tran Vu Thien Tdn thd ngay trong ddng,
Truyen thuye't dd chi khIng djnh ndi day la "dit lanh", da't td't, chd chda chdng minh than Thien Tdn dddc thd d trong ddng cd td thdi An Ddcfng Vdcfng nhd trdn da neu,
Xem xong ddng trong, du khach ra ddng ngoai, quay ve hddng Ddng, thiy cd 10 bac da, bddc len cao khoang gin 3 met, la ldi de'n ehiia Thien Tdn.
Chua quay hddng Tay, ddng bing nhdng cdt da va gd lim nim ben sddn nui Dung Dddng, cd dp cao so vdi mat rudng khoang 20 met. Sddn nui chd nay bing phlng, rdng rai nen mdi xay dddc ehua. Trong chua dat nhfeu tddng Phat sdn son thiep vang long lly nhd d c ngdi chua khac d lang que.
- Du khach thip bdcfng khin ll, dim minh trong cdi Phat xong, ra san chua nhin ve phia Tay, thay tren dai da chin vach da hang ngoai (ham dddi ciia mieng rdng) cd dl mdt be da thd, lui ve phia Tay cdn xay mdt thap cao ba tang. Cay cdi mpe tren dai da nay rat nhfeu, ed nhdng cay cao to da sdng hang ngan nam tren da, re cay tua tua quan quyt, dm Ip lay da nhd nhdng "sdi rau" eua rdng, Sdc sdng cua cay vd cung manh me, thuy chung vdi da la vay! Tat ea nhd bao phu mdt mau xanh eiia
1971
LA DANG BAT
Td'ng cay tdoi td't. lam cho hang ngoai luc nao cdng mat me, thoang dang, khdng kl.i t.-cng lanh. mang phong canh tinh lang cua mdt vung que.
Bddc sang san pbia Nam cua ngdi ehua, du kbacb nhin xa se thiy eon dudng Tien Yet la dddng di vao kinh dd Hoa Ld xda - dddng Tru'dng Yen, tu' day vao de'n Cd dd Hoa Ld cdn khoang 5 km nda. Gan phia Nam dddng Tien Yet cdn cd nui Nddng Sdn. Phia Ble nui Dung Ddcfng la nui Voi. Ba ngpn nui: Dung Dddng, Nddng Sdn va Tddng Sdn hdp lai nhd mdt cdng thanh da vu'a hung vi, vda tuyet ml bao ve kinh thanh Hoa Ld.
Khdng nhu'ng the, ddng Thien Tdn edn gin lien vdi ten tudi Dinh Bd Linh td thud chda len ngdi Hoang de.
Khi mdi ddng dau mdt sd quan, trddc luc dem quan di dep loan 12 sd quan, Dinh Bd Linh nghe ddn dpng Thien Tdn thd thin Trin Vu Thien Tdn rat thieng, da sda le vat vao eau dao trong ddng de mong dddc than giiip dd. (Dng hda trddc thin, neu dep loan xong, len ngdi vua se sda lai den thd va td tddng bing gd. Tddng truyen, ldi ciu eua Dinh Bd Linh rat linh dng, thin Thien Tdn da giup dng danh tan dddc 11 sd quan khac.
Sau khi len ngdi Hoang de nam 968, Dinh Tien Hoang lien cho sda den. td tddng, ddi ten den la den An Qudc (da't nddc binh yen) va sic phong eho thin la "An ' Qud'c Tdn Thin" (Thin gid gin dit nddc binh yen). Nha vua cdn cho xay d't khu nha Tfen Te va Kfnh Thien Dai (nha te trdi dat) d khu vdc phia Tay ddng Thien Tdn, dd
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CO DO HOA LU
khach thap phdcfng cd chd nghi ngdi va te' le. Day eung dung lam ndi tiep ddn cac sd thin nddc ngoai (nhd nha khach cua Chinh phu) trddc khi nha vua eho vao be' kien. (Nam 1978 Ti Van hda - Thdng tin Ha Nam Ninh' khao sat tai khu vdc ddng Thien Tdn da dao dddc hai loai gach: Mdt loai gach tren mat cd ddng chd "Dai Viet, qud'c quan thanh vien" (loai gach lam d ddi nha Dinh) va , mdt loai gach ghi chd "Giang Tay quan" (loai gach do quan si Giang Tay thdi Dddng ddng d nddc ta sin xuit ra)).
Dieu dd khang djnh khu vdc ddng Thien Tdn la mdti tien ddn quan trpng dau tien cua Kinh dd Hoa Ld, da nim trong qiiln thi di tich Cd Dd Hoa Ld.
Den thdi Trin, vua Tran cung de'n ddng Thien Tdn d u td va tu sii'a den. Bia khle d eda ddng da ghi lai sd viec dd.
Thdi ki Cach mang thang Tam nam 1945, ddng Thien Tdn da la nhan chdng Ijch sd chdng kien mdt sd kien quan trpng cua Ding bd va nhan dan tinh Ninh Binh.
Ngay 19 thang 8 nam 1945, hdn mdt van nhan dan d cac huyen Nho Quan, Gia Vien va Gia Khanh (Hoa Ld) da hdi ty d trddc eda ddng mit tinh bieu dddng khi the ciia Cach mang. Chda bao gid vach nui Dung Ddcfng vang vpng bdi nhdng tieng hd hung trang eda nhan dan thi hien quyet tam di eddp chinh quyen nhd hdm ay.
11'9f
LA DANG BAT
Sau cudc mit tinh, doan ngddi vdi cd dd sao vang, bang khiu hieu, cung giao, mac, gay gdc da sdi ndi tiian hanh td ddng Thien Tdn keo ve danh chie'm thi xa Ninh Binh trong ngay thu thang Tam rdc rd nlng vang.
Phai chang, ddng Thien Tdn da chdng minh cho mdt chan li: Cai dep bao gid cung sdng ddi vdi d i hao hung cua dan tdc.
Ddng Thien Tdn cd nhieu thd de vjnh, nhdng chii yeu viet vao vach da. Thdi gian da lam eho nhu'ng net chd md di, mdt sd bai thd reu phong phii kin khdng dpc dddc. Xin dddc chep ra day mpt bii thd cua Tuin phii Phan Dinh Hde. "
"TKdn gidi khai tien tU Thuc, Dinh,
' ; Toi tu bi xu thi anh linh. i.wr .(..A-rT iT'dt rr O
Quang xung kiem khi Tay ho nguyet, ^ ^' ' " '"^
Anh tdn qudn yeu Bde tran tinh.
Hiep Phdt nan ddo sinh hda kiep, ii^'i •. H ii-''i
'• Danh scfn trudng hp de vUCfng kinh. ' ''' • ' ' ' "
Dpng todn nguyet tdc cam lam sdi, - ' -'. . T i l l .
Dung uy qudn le ngudng trgeh tinh."
D i c h n d m : • •- "• •
"Neu trudfc t h a n quyen tir Thuc, Dinh,
Co tu" bi mdfi thifc anh linh. •iiV
Ho Tay t r a n g roi gUofm leo bong, T ran Bac sao t reo qui nep minh. jf.
j r i
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CO DO HOA LU
P h e p Pha t khon qua vong hao kiep.
Non Tien giu" viing dat t h a n kinh.
Xin dem nUdfc suoi lam mUa moc,
Tvrdfi khap t r a n gian bao chiing sinh".
Nhd the dpng Thien Tdn thd d Tien, d Phat, vda la den vda la chda.
Du khach den day, tam linh se dddc hddng thien trong cdi Phat, coi Tidn, d u mong sao cd nhfdu phiic lanh va chiem ngddng nhdng tac phim dieu khic da dep tuyet vdi eua tao hda va con ngddi, ddng thdi edn xao xuyen, md mang khi nghe nhdng d u chuyen xa xda li thu nhd huyen thoai. Dd la sd hda nhap gida con ngddi va'thien nhien.
r ...-n . , i . i . . . . ; . ' , . . (1
Ddng Thien Tdn chinh la "ddng thien phuc dia" -Mdt mdn qua quy gia ciia tao hda ban tang cho con ngddi - da dddc Nha nddc cdng nhan la mdt di tich Ijch siif va danh thing ndi tie'ng. Ddng da dddc xep hang qudc gia.
121
J AC-' ^
' i> . . .
r.i sl>/ ,Jiirf'I Ko ,nfliT BO driJ > iri'/
.BUfi;.> Bi ^ j v ffiib
^ ' TAI LEEU THAM KHAO CHINH
1. "Dai Viet su- Iddc" - NXB thanh pho Hd Chi Minh -1993,
2. "Dai Viet sd ki toan thd" - Tap 1 - NXB Khoa hpe Xa hdi - Ha Ndi - 1972.
3. "Dai Nam nhit thd'ng chi" - Tap 3 - NXB Khoa bpe Xahdi -Ha Ndi- 1971.
122
MUC LUC
'• , ' Trang
L Ldi gidi thieu - ^ ^ T ^ p „ 3 , j 5
2. Cd Dd Hoa Ld 7
3. Ddn thd vua Dinh Tien Hoang 23
4. Den thd vua Le Dai Hanh 45 \ As-^r.S \i,iV-)
5. Ma Yen Sdn 59
^ ' 6. Ddng Am Tien '« ^ n . ia • g^
7. Xuyen Thiiy Ddng '''•''' 79
8. Chua Nhat Try \'^^ '«••' >A - :• mii A(\k 89
9. Den thd cdng chua Phat Kim 95
10. Ddng Hoa Sdn :'\s '.' •> :\..• 99
11. Ddng Thien Tdn 105
.seer men 0' o» ;ii otv, 'nan 123
LA DANG BAT
— Sinh nam : 1942
- Que : Thdn Da Gia. xa Nmh Mi,
huyen Hoa Lu, tinh Ninh Binh
" Cunhan Van hoc
— Nghe nghiep : Day hoc
DA IN :
Danh Thing Ninh Binh Tap I So Van hoa Thong tin Ninh Binh - 1993 (in chung) - Tai ban 1994. Truang Han Sieu - Nha van Ion thdi Tran, Danh nhan Van hoa dan toe - Hpi Van hoc Nghe thuat Ninh Binh - 1994 (in ehung).
Ve vdi Vjnh Ha Long can - Sd Van h d Thdng tin Ninh Binh - 1995 -Tai ban 1996.
Tam Coc - Bich Dong • Cdng ti Du lieh Tam Cdc - Bich Dpng
- 1996, Tho Van xua vmh canh dep Ninh Binh (Suu tam. Bien soan) - So Du lich Nmh Bmh - 1996,
Thang canh Van Long - Cdng ti khach san Du lich Hoa Lu -1997.
Canh dep Ninh Binh - Nha xuat ban The gidi - Ha Npi - 1997. Chua Djch Long - So Du lich Nmh Binh - 1997 Danh nhan Van hoc Ninh Binh Tap I Cdng ti sach va
thiet bi taidng hoc Nmh Binh - 1998 (in chung). Nui Due Thuy - Nha xuat ban The gidi Ha Ndi - 1998 Co Do Hoa Lir • Nha xuat ban Thanh men - Ha Ndi - 1998