mallorca

http://coronn.com

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca

FelantixCamposdel Puerto

Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá

Port d'AlcúdiaPollença

2. Boquer 3. Creveta

4. Caimari

5. Alaró

6. Fraquel

7. Torella

8. Port Sóller

9. Valldemossa

10. Ses Trét

11. Sa Gubia12. Calviá

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

15. Castell de Santueri

1. Cán Txanquet

1. Cán Txanquet

Southeast, east20 m.

Copyright coronn AB, Sweden

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

Port de Pollença

Platia de Formentor

Cap de Formentor

How to find the crag:

Drive to Port d'Pollença and continue through thevillage along the coast. Continue in the direction ofCap de Formentor. You will find the crag 100 metresafter the tunnel. Enjoy a meal at one of the manyrestaurants in Port d'Pollença.

1 Cachi kai 5+ 11 Glillo aglidulce ? 21 Quin fum fa 7b+2 Chi craku 6b 12 Xin xubi 7a+ 22 El cacho del chichi 6c3 Tlanqui xanqui 7c 13 ? ? 23 ? 5+4 Fledi ulkel 7c+ 14 Xin xampu 7c 24 ? 55 Fa un fum fi ? 15 Brut lee 7c+6 Xao xoxin 7a+ 16 ? 7a+7 Cuki 7a 17 Tai xixa ?8 Teta blik ? 18 Xin peldon 7a9 Tlasmeditelanea ? 19 ? ?10 Tila pa tlas ? 20 ? ?

198765432

121110

21

20

1918

1716151413

242322

2. Boquer

All point of the compass5 - 20 m.A couple up to 60 m.



These crags offer mainly boulder or "boulder like" climbing.Drive to Port d'Pollença and continue through the village along the coast. Asyou leave the village, there is a tree-lined avenue to the left. Turn left and followthis road until it turns to the right. Park and walk on the track that passes a farmand continues into the valley. A beautiful unusual area ideal for families. Enjoya meal at one of the many restaurants in Port d'Pollença.

Port d'Pollença

DirectionAlcúdia

DirectionPollença

Thebay

P

12

54

3

121110987

6

1613

1415

20191817

2524232221 26

2827

3029

1 ? 6c+2 ? 6b3 ? 34 ? 4+5 ? 4+6 Roco d'U Trampo 6c7 ? 7b8 ? 7b+9 ? 6b+10 ? 6b11 + 6a+12 ? 8a13 ? 6a14 La Creu 5+15 ? Neads gear 416 ? 8a17 ? 6a+18 ? 6a19 ? 5+20 ? 6b21 ? 5+22 L'Aguila Neads gear 5,4,4+23 L'Aguila direct 5+,4,4+24 Seconda stella a destra 7c25 ? 6b+26 ? 6a+27 ? 5+28 Bicepmania 6b+29 ? 530 ? 4

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

3. Creveta

Northeast20 m.



Drive to Port d'Pollença and then continue along the road to Cap Formentor. After 5km you will arrive at a sightseeing spot, "Mirador d'es Columet". Park at the big carpark and walk back from the parking area on a track alongside an old pipeline. Turnright so that you can cross the second of two Cols on the ridge. Cross the Col, andturn left following the crag to the climbing area.

Port d'Pollença

P

P

1 ? 5+ 11 Els Corderos Atacan de nuevo 6a+ 21 Som-hi 5+2 Nordcad 6b+ 12 Jerita 6b+ 22 Ball o'en Banyeta Verda 6b3 ? 4+ 13 Hussein 6c 23 Somni Bucolic 6a+4 Coordina Coordinator 4+ 14 Terapia de Grupo 6b+ 24 ? ?5 Curset 4 15 Ca magre, Puçes 6a+ 25 Estic fins u collons 6a6 Baba 5 16 Ja me Pagarás 6c 26 ? 6b+7 Camisasaque 5 17 Lastralopithecus 6c 27 ? ?8 Krilin 6a 18 150 Sipis 6a 28 ? 5+9 Hyperion 5 19 Récords de Bunyola 6a+10 Hyperion Derecho 6a+ 20 El Sant Crist 6a+

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

154

32

118769,10 12 1716151413 232221201918

28272625

24

9

4. Caimari

North25 m.



Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and "Caimari". The area has twosectors of which "Las Perchas" is the one covered by this TOPO. To get there, parkyour car on the outskirts of Caimari as you are leaving the village, then continue onthe road signposted to "Col dés Barraca". After about 200 meters you will pass a 7kmpost on the right. Two tracks leads to the left at that point. Take the second one andafter 200 meters the crag will be on your left.To reach the other crag (no TOPO), leave Caimari and park on the the first hairpinbend. Follow the track to the crag. The routes are graded 5 to 6b.

1

2

5

4

3 9876

131211

10

1 Petit Poe 6c2 Ball de Bot 7a+3 Empire State 8b4 Comando Madrid 8b+5 Master hit 8b+6 Calgo 7b7 ? ?8 Motorhead 7c+9 Terrorvisión 8a10 Toten Hosen 7c11 Penhouse 7c12 Hoodoo Gurus 7b+13 Picados 7c+

Selva

Caimari

DirectionCampanet

P

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

4

5.1. Alaró Take me to 5.2.

West, northwest30 m.



Drive to Alaró. As with al villages on Mallorca this one is congested but if you find andfollow the signposts to "Castillo de Alaró" you will find the narrow road with manyhairpins that leads you to the village (a couple of houses). Next to the restaurant youwill find a big car park and the long and step walk from here to the crag is recommended.It is also possible to continue on a small rough road that turns of to the left just beforethe restaurant and which leads to a parking spot closer to the crag.Extraordinarily beautiful scenery and a amazing crag make Alaró a special place. Bringlots of water. On the top of the crag you will find a Chapel and a small restaurant whereyou can buy lunch, refreshments or some chocolate. This crag is not recommendedfor climbers with small children.

Alaró DirectionInca

Direction713, Santa Maria

P

PRestaurant

1

432

75,6

6

1098

1819

11

17

1216

151413

2221201 ? 7b 12 Aferra el Tul 6c2 ? 7a 13 Mata Guiris 7a+3 ? 6c 14 No res 7a+4 ? 6a 15 Frit 6a5 ? ? 16 Sobrassada 4+ Castell d'Alaro is an entirely private6 Esteban 7b+ 17 ? 6a+ property. Ask for prior permission to7 Amigos para siempre? 7c+ 18 Snowboard 5+ climb on [email protected] Froam party 7c 19 Fido-Dido 6a It is essential that an agreed line is9 Muérte Ya 7c 20 Vagon roll 5 taken up to the rock and that it is 10 Zatropeck 7c 21 Las Mallas de Cristo 5 agreed that the owners are not 11 ? ? 22 Hola que Tal 6a responsible in case of an accident.

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

5.2. Alaró Take me to 5.1.

West, northwest30 m.


Alaró DirectionInca

Direction713, Santa Maria

P

PRestaurant

1 ? ? 6 Pilar 7b2 Hops Nops 7b+ 7 ? ?3 Buf 7a 8 ? 6b+4 To Pa Di 7a+ 9 ? 6b+5 Clonción 7b 10 ? 6c

11 ? 6a+12 Pincha Uvas 4+,7b+13 Kiko 6a

1

654

3

2

7

13

12

98 10 11

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP


Drive to Alaró. As with al villages on Mallorca this one is congested but if you find andfollow the signposts to "Castillo de Alaró" you will find the narrow road with manyhairpins that leads you to the village (a couple of houses). Next to the restaurant youwill find a big car park and the long and step walk from here to the crag is recommended.It is also possible to continue on a small rough road that turns of to the left just beforethe restaurant and which leads to a parking spot closer to the crag.Extraordinarily beautiful scenery and a amazing crag make Alaró a special place. Bringlots of water. On the top of the crag you will find a Chapel and a small restaurant whereyou can buy lunch, refreshments or some chocolate. This crag is not recommendedfor climbers with small children.

6. Fraguel

Northwest30 m.



Drive from Bunyola in the direction ofSanta Maria. Turn left as you leave thevillage, about 200 meters before a baron the your left-hand side of the road.Follow this road, which at times is ofpoor standard, through many hairpinbends. Park on the side of the roadjust after you have passed a 5 km postand follow the track to the crag.

36 ? 7c+ 44 Esto no es Calvià 6b+ 17 Le Gorille a un Bone mine 7c 37 Roc punk 7c+ 45 Sementir 6a+ 18 Amnesia ? 38 Cuencamelo 7c 46 Comando Rasta 6a 19 Fotball fan 8a 39 On es l'Avi 7b 47 ? 6b+

1 Ojo Climbico 6c,6c+ 20 Shabada 8a+ 40 Pastanaga Punyetera 8a 48 Peep Show's Garriga 7b+2 666 6b+,6c 21 Ramadán 8b+ 41 7b el Plumero 7b+ 49 Marmade 7b3 Tabasco 7a+ 22 French kiss 8b 42 Cotorrot 7c+ 50 Tofol 6b+4 Harissa 7a 23 Terre d'adventure 7b+ 43 Cous-cous 6c 51 Churropino 5+5 Pink panther 5,6a+ 24 ? 8a+ 52 Chris line 46 El Terrat 6b 25 Fes el que Pugis 7a+7 Casa de Colores 6c+ 26 Miss Palma 7b+8 Rosa de Sanatorio 7b+ 27 Bodo Dodo 7c9 Fakir 6c 28 ? ?10 ? 5+ 29 Humanoide 8a+11 Psycho killer 6c+ 30 ? 8b+12 Jungle-hop 7a 31 Pantano Boas 7c+13 Saolpicón de Menisco 8a 32 Muguelin y los Probetas 7c+14 Solo Sex 8a+ 33 Aloha from hell 7b+15 ? ? 34 Glasnost 7c+16 Goo-goo Mack 8a 35 Tétè de Pene 7c+

Bunyola

5 km post

DirectionSanta Maria

1

87

6

5,64

32

1

11109

12

1413

15

181716

19

2120

22 23,24

24

25

26

27,28

3029

28

3231 33

3634,35

34

3738,39

39

454443424140

515049484746 52

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

7. Torella

Northwest30 m.



Drive along the 710 from Sóller in the direction of Pollença.After 10 km you will reach the first tunnel. Park beforereaching the tunnel on your left and follow the track tothe crag. On the way up to the crag you will pass tworoutes that are not on this TOPO. They are Max Cady,7c and Agent Orange, 8a+.

P

Tunnel

DirectionSóller

1

7

6

54

32

9

8

1 Bernadi Company 6c+2 Nycinyatos 4+3 Borinot 6c4 Ho passam Pillo 7a+5 Bona Nyic 6a+6 Molis de paper 6b7 Tutup 6c8 Na Faresta 7b+9 S'Horabaixa 7c

40 meter to the left.

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

8. Port Sóller

Northwest25 m - 35 m.



Drive in to Port Sóller and follow the seafront. The "main"road splits into a wider road and two "No entry" signesappear. Turn sharp right and take the narrow road up thehill. Shortly after a bar on your left there is a new, a newluxurious hotel. Park outside the bar and take the footpathdown to the crag.

Thebay

Port Sóller

Bar

NewluxuriousHotel

P

Cave far left.

Hotel

150 meters

12

3,4,5

109876 14,1511

16

15

18,19,20

17

18

2425 2726

50 meters

1 Miguelín el politoxicómano 6c 11 ? 6c 21 Pic nic 6b2 Cristo el transexual 7a 12 ? 6b 22 ? 6a3 Blau Ferrari 8a 13 ? 6a 23 ? 6a4 Alliens 6b 14 Dit I Fet 7a 24 ? 6c5 El folla-guris 6a 15 Virgin 8a+ 25 ? 6b+6 Doris 7b 16 ? ? 26 ? 6b7 ? 7c 17 Phantomas 7b 27 ? 6c8 Blobland 6c 18 Ficalito 7c9 Bon vi 6a 19 Club super Tres 7b10 Els salvatges 6b 20 Ja son five 6c+

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

54

1312

19

21

2322

9.1. Valldemossa Take me to 9.2.

South, southwest15 m.



Drive from Palma in the direction ofValldemossa. From Valldemossa, drivetowards the coast, pass the first rightturn, the 710 towards Sóller, and takethe next turning to the right, signpostedPort d'Valldemossa.Approximately 1 km further the viewopens and you can see the sea. Thecrags are alongside the road, in fact,you drive under some of them. Park ina lay-bay just after the main crag. Walkback 150 meters to reach this crag. Onthe way, you pass a small crag withroutes numbered 1,2 and 3, which arenot included in this TOPO. Werecommend the restaurant in Portd'Valldemossa.

Road

Road4

87659

Port d'Valldemossa

Valldemossa

1 ? (not on the TOPO) 42 ? (not on the TOPO) 43 ? (not on the TOPO) 4+4 ? 6a5 Ropmpe dedos 6a+6 Pérfino encanto 6a+7 ? 6b8 ? 5+9 ? 6b

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

9.2. Valldemossa Take me to 9.1.

Southwest40 m.


1 ? 7c 12 ? 6c 23 Intrepido 6c2 ? 7c 13 ? 6b+ 24 Nameless 7a3 ? 6b+ 14 ? 7a 25 Via des Clau 6b4 ? 6c+ 15 ? 7a 26 El Jubilado 55 ? ? 16 ? 7a 27 Suphi 5+6 ? 5+ 17 ? 4+ 28 Another roadside attraction 6b7 ? 6b+ 18 ? 6b 29 Pepa 6a+8 ? 6a 19 Kiko 6b 30 ? 6b+9 Lanky 5+ 20 ? 6b 31 Sostre den Burot 6c+10 Shorty 5+ 21 ? ? 32 Direct (route 31) 7a+11 ? (not recommended) 7a 22 Palmolive 7b 33 Dali 5+

Port d'Valldemossa

Valldemossa

RoadP

Southwest25 m.

Route number 12 to 17(no TOPO)

1

64,52,3

10987

8

11

20,21

22,23

1918

2123

24 25 26 323129,30

2827

30

33

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP


Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive towardsthe coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sóller, and take the next turningto the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa.Approximately 1 km further the view opens and you can see the sea. The cragsare alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bayjust after the main crag. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.

4

9

2

10. Ses Trét

North25 m.



Drive from Palma in the direction ofValldemossa. 4 km after you havepassed the village of S'Egleita you passa 14km milestone by the roadside. Onthe left you will find a lay-bay close toa bridge over a dry riverbed. Park hereand follow a track through the trees.You will pass some small boulderingcrags after 250 metres, turn left afterthese and make your way to the crag.The crag is an old quarry and the routesare therefore numbered which makesroute finding easy. Many routes are"manufactured".

1 ? ? 11 ? 7a+2 ? 8a+ 12 ? 7b3 ? 7c 13 ? 7b4 ? 6c+ 14 ? 8a5 ? ? 15 ? 6b+6 ? ? 16 ? 7c7 ? ? 17 ? 7a+8 ? 8b 18 ? 7a+9 ? ? 19 ? 7a+10 ? 8a

1,23

1

6,74,5

5

7

1110981412,

13

12

16

15

1917,18

18

6 5

8101113 1218 1720 19

25 23262734

P

DirectionValldemossa

DirectionS'Egeieta

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

11.1. Sa Gubia Take me to the right part. Left part of "Pares dels Coloms"

South25-40 m.



Drive from Palma in the direction of Sóller on the C711. You will passPalmanola, and 4 km after a crossroad leads to Bunyola on your right. Parkthere, on a Restaurant "Can Penasso". Cross the road you just left, andfollow the small road on the other side. You will pass a car park whichshouldn't be used since the climbing in Sa Gubia could be stoped if climbersdo so. Continue, pass two gates and when a dry river bed turns up crossthat one and then follow a track to the right next to the river bed to the crag.

1 Pecho lata (no TOPO) 6b+ 11 Piñón Fijo 7b+2 Amor Brujo (no TOPO) 6b,6a+ 12 Silo sé no vengo 6c3 Papa Moreno (no TOPO) 6b 13 Perque triunfin els cannalas 6b+4 Peur impossible 5,7a 14 Pesadilla final 6a+5 Es Poal 6b 15 Peladora 6c6 Esto no es Quinto 7a+7 Sal de arenal 6c8 Tres menos cuarto 7b+9 Front 242 7b+10 Algo salvage 6b

Bunyola

RestaurantCan Penasso

Don't use thesefootpath !!

Dry river bedDirectionPalma

DirectionSóller

P

SectorSilicona

SectorExcalibur

Sector Why

SectorIsla Bonita

SectorPrincessa

SectorPolla Boda

SectorEspolon

Paret delsColoms

Route number 1 to 3(no TOPO)

4

65

1312119,10

87

10

1514

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

11.2. Sa Gubia Take me to the left part. Right part of "Pares dels Coloms"

SouthTwo pitches up to 60 m.


1 Humi 6a+2 Mes rapit suc el vent 6a3 Seis pelas 6a,6c4 Pellojo de tiburon 7a5 Decadencia corporal 6c,7b+6 Comechocos 6b+7 Tao 6b,6c+8 Leather face 7a+,6c+9 Pasteles de Isabel 7b,6c+10 Gay power 7a+11 Vol de nuit 6b12 Tia melis 6a13 Estricnina 5,5+,514 Danzomania 5+,6a+,6a+15 ? 6a,5+16 Chungui chunguez 5,6c17 Guatón 5+,6a

Bunyola




DirectionSóller

P

Tap to find a detailed illustration

1

54

32

6

7,8

8

910,11

11

1314,17

12 15

13

16

17

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP



11.3. Sa Gubia "Gubia Normal", "Princessa Area", Sector "Espolon" and "Polla Boba"

SouthPitches up to 200 m.


1,2

2

38

7654

9,10

11,12,13

9

14

171615

18

20,21,22

19

21

20

23

2625

24

1 Gubia normal 2+,4+, 10 Sonrisa vertical 5,6a3+,3+, 11 The master 5+,6a4+,3,3 12 Polla Bopa 5+,6a

2 Quan es fa Fec 2+,5,5,5 13 Mejico Lindo 5+,6a+3 Gubia variante 4+ 14 Oasis 6a+4 Chitas marchitas 6b+ 15 Via des los Bomberos 6a,6a+5 Charly Danone 7a+ 6b,6b6 Jódete y Baila 6b+ 16 Hambre Eterna 6b7 Fill de ric 6a 17 Princessa 6c,5,6a,8 Puta Perro 6a+ 6a,59 La Ley del Deseo 5,5,4+,5 18 ? 6a+

19 ? 6a+ 20 Moco de Pravo 7b+,8b+ 21 De Gorrones 8a,? 22 Sexo Debil 4,6a+,

6b+,6b,6b 23 Cannabis in Vitro 4 24 El jardin de la Abuela 5 25 Pataje Español 4+ 26 Tantum Ergo 4+ 27 Mi pichina 7b 28 Miju 7b+

Bunyola




DirectionSóller

P

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP




11.4. Sa Gubia Sector "Isla Bonita", "Why"



Bunyola




DirectionSóller

P1

32

4 5 6

8,9765

10,11

11

8

123

5

1 To Kiski'm'toca 6+2 Fina y Segura 6b3 La isla Bonita 6b+,4,6a+4 Placa Nuevo 5+,6b5 Franceces 6a,5,6c6 Phantasmagoria 7a+7 Bongo Bongo 7a+8 Gigolo 7b9 Why! 6b+10 Cortocircuito 6b11 Zaragüay 6a12 Agáratte Maldito 7b+

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP




11.5. Sa Gubia Sector "Excalibur", "Silicona"



Bunyola




DirectionSóller

P

1

65

43,72

10

7 8 9

3

11

181716

1514

1312

19,20

201 KGB 6c+2 Na Guarra 6a3 Excalibur 5+,5+4 No Haces más Grado porque Eres Enado 6c5 Bofetadas de Placer 7b+6 Charismatic 6c7 Ópera prima 6a+8 Trampera Matinera 6b9 Il Panzerotto 6a+10 Horrible Belleza 7a11 Hawaii 5-0 4+12 Silicona 6b+13 Lulu 6a+14 Proteina vegetal 6a15 Totom fa el que Vol 6a+16 Resaca 6a+17 Gran Pis 6b18 Rustic Pogo 6b+19 Familia iscariote 6a20 Familia variante 6b

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP




12. Calviá

West25 m.



Drive from Palma in the direction ofCalvià, in the village, take right wherea signpost shows "Establishments".Continue out of the village until youjust have past a section with stonewalls on both sides of the road. Parkin a small lay-bay on the right side ofthe road in a bend. Walk back 75metres and climb over a fence. Followthe track into the wood and the valleyand after approximately 700 metersyou will see the crag when you standsbelow it. The climbing is not excelentcompared with other crags on Mallorcabut shadow make people chose it eventhough.

1 ? 6b 11 Tu polla me enrolla 6a2 ? 6a 12 Batakalofis 5+3 Seman Semidesnatado 6b 13 Caguerra perpetua 5+4 Vuelo sin Moto 6c+ 14 Extrafina 6a+5 No Cal Senior fiscal 5+ 15 ? 5+6 Chanso 6a+ 16 Pinchito moruno 5+7 Perona 6c 17 El ultiomo de la fila 6a8 Tirili 6b 18 Calentura invernal 5+9 Saque mate 6c 19 Primera experiensa 4+10 Jota jota 6b 20 Filas pipas 6a+

1 3,42

4

1211

10987

6

5

151413191817

16

2016,17,18

Calvià

PP

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

13.1. Santanyi Take me to 13.2.

The left partSouth20 m.



Drive to Santanyi and then towards "Cala Santanyi". After you haveleft Santanyi you should ignore the first turning signposted for CalaSantanyi and instead take the second one. Then take the first left turnand then the first right signposted for "HR Palmaria". Continue to acar park by a ruined tower. Walk to the right to come under the faceof the crag.

Santanyi

Coust line

Cala Figuera

Cala Santanyi

P

1 4325 6 7 8 9 10 1211

13 14 15

1 ? 6a+ 11 Blame in the rain 6b+2 Tom y jerry 5 12 ? 7a3 Ebam 4+ 13 ? 7a4 Ebamsa 5 14 Xiscu que Reiliscu 6b5 Semen de trigo 6b 15 Tupé de Rocké 6c6 ? 6c7 foot hook 6b+8 El diedro 6a9 Vino Tino 6a+10 Tapas 6a+

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

17

13.2. Santanyi Take me to 13.1.

The right partSouth20 m.


Santanyi

Coust line

Cala Figuera

Cala Santanyi

P

16 ? 6a+ 27 Na c'al les Seychelles 7a+17 Un dimanche a la companye 7a 28 Colestrol party 6a18 Tocino for pepino 7a 29 Batchcampft 7a+19 Flesh for Dani 7b 30 Tenaci-pollas 8a20 Comepiedras 7b+ 31 Poseidón 7b21 Darsa Prisa 7b+ 32 Chuteur Fou 7b+22 Miguel's 7a+ 33 Go Johnny 8a23 La Calle de ritmo 7b 34 Rompepierna 6c24 Psicomambo 6b+ 35 Naranja 7a25 ? 7b 36 Espolón 6c26 Cocino liger 7b

16 1917,18 25242320,

2122

21

26 27 28

3231

3029

36353433

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP


Drive to Santanyi and then towards "Cala Santanyi". After you haveleft Santanyi you should ignore the first turning signposted for CalaSantanyi and instead take the second one. Then take the first left turnand then the first right signposted for "HR Palmaria". Continue to acar park by a ruined tower. Walk to the right to come under the faceof the crag.

14.1. Cala Magraner Take me to 14.2. / 14.3.

The cave and left sectorSouth20 m.



Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a T-junction. Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a shortdrive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times ofthe season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded withtrees and goes slightly up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closedsmall gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is alarge lay-bay, park here. Walk through the big gate and follow the road until you see a farm. Tothe left a track turns of down a sloop. The track turns to the right after you have passed a walland then you just follow's this down to the see and the crag after about 1 km. A beautiful place,exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with childrenand the crag offers enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to.Further down the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket.

Manacor

Porto Cristo

Calas deMallorca

Coa

stal

str

ip

P

DirectionManacor

1

54

329876

1 ? 7c+ 10 ? 7a 19 ? 6a2 ? 7c 11 ? 6a 20 ? 6a+3 ? 8a 12 ? 6a 21 ? 6a+4 ? 8a 13 ? 6a 22 ? 6c5 ? 8a+ 14 ? 6c 23 ? 6b6 ? 7a+ 15 ? 6c 24 ? 6b+7 ? 7b+ 16 ? 7a 25 ? 6c8 ? 7a+ 17 ? 6c9 ? 7a 18 ? 6a+

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

19181716

15252423222120

10

11 12 1314


The middle sectorSouth20 m.


Manacor

Porto Cristo

Calas deMallorca

Coa

stal

str

ip

P

DirectionManacor

1 5432

876

101211

9

1 ? 7a 11 ? 6b+2 ? 6c+ 12 ? 6c3 ? ? 13 ? 6b4 ? 5+5 ? 56 ? 4+7 ? 48 ? 4+9 ? 6c10 ? 6c+

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP



13


The right sectorSouth20 m.


Manacor

Porto Cristo

Calas deMallorca

Coa

stal

str

ip

P

DirectionManacor1 ? 6b 11 ? 6b+

2 ? 6c+ 12 ? 6a3 ? 6c 13 ? 5+4 ? 7a 14 ? 5-5 ? 6c+ 15 ? 5+6 ? 6b 16 ? 6a7 ? 6a 17 ? 6a8 ? 6a 18 ? 59 ? 6a 19 ? 6c+10 ? 6a 20 ? 6a

Sea

2,3

64, 51

1110987

1312 14,15,16,16,17,18,19,20

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP



3

14

4

1918

1716

15

15. Castell de Santueri

Southeast, east20 m.



Drive to Felantix and then towards Santanyi. After about 3 km, turn left wherea signpost gives you "Castell de Sanctueri". Drive up to the castle and parkthere. To the right of the steps to the castle is a track going down, follow thatto the crag.Route number 1 and 2 ain't illustrated on this TOPO, but you pass them onyour walk down to the "main" crag.Look up on these grades as suggestions, we haven't meet so many how hasclimbed these routes so the grades are very subjective.

1 ? ?2 ? ?3 ? 7b4 ? 8a5 ? 7b6 ? 7a+7 ? 6b8 ? 6c9 ? 7b+10 ? 8a11 ? 7b12 ? 7c

Felantix

DirectionManacor

DirectionSantanyi

3

1,2

87654

910

1211

PALMA

Santa Ponça

Andratx

Bunyola

Valldemossa

Santa Maria

Aloró

Inca

Santanyi

Vilafranca


Manacor

Cala d'Or

Puerto Cristo

Artá



3. Caimari

4. Alaró

5. Fraquel

6. Torella

7. Port Sóller

8. Valldemossa

9. Ses Trét


12. Santa Ponça

13. Santanyi

14. Cala Magraner

MALLORCA

Calvià

PP

mallorca

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