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  • Mallorcan Psicobloc MiniGUIDE

    by Daimon Beail

    Version 1.0 - March 2006

    Thank you for downloading this ROCKFAX MiniGuide. We hope that you find the information useful, inspiring and accurate.

    Print-on-demand means that we will be able to keep the MiniGuides continually up-to-date but to do this we need your feedback. Please send any comments you have to [email protected].

    Your subscription to this MiniGuide includes free updates to subsequent editions.

    Thanks again for your support.

    Alan James, March 2006

    HOW TO ASSEMBLE YOUR MiniGUIDEThis MiniGUIDE is designed to be printed and compiled into a compact booklet. For best results it should be printed on good quality A4 paper using a modern colour inkjet printer.

    PRINTER SETTINGS- Choose Landscape printing on aGood quality colour setting.- Initially print at at full size (100%).- Ensure that any options such asShrink oversize pages to paper sizeare UNCHECKED.- Select any options toMaximize printable area.- Select any options to Centre printable area.(See Problems below)

    PRINTING- Do not print page 1 (this page).- Print page 2 (the cover) on strong paper, photo paper or white card.- Print the rest of the pages on good quality paper.

    ASSEMBLING- Fold each internal page separatelydown the middle so that the printed sidesare facing outwards.- Assemble the pages, with the folded center edge outwards, into a small booklet.- Wrap the cover around the pages.- Either staple the spine (you will need a strong stapler) or use a plastic binding clip available from stationary shops.

    PROBLEMS- With some printers (especially HP) it is difficult to get the pages to centre properly. Check the ROCKFAX web sitewww.rockfax.com/miniguides/help.html for a solution to this problem

    Insert separate foldedpages inside cover page

    Foldpages downthe centre

    Printed sidesfacing outwards

    Fasten with a large stapler,or a plastic sliding clip

    Stapleor clip

  • Alistair MacDonald climbing at MitjanaPhoto: Daimon Beail

    Porto CristoCala MarcalCala Sa Nau

    SantanyiSoller

    Sa Calobra

    Also contains info on:Cala MitjanaCala Varquer

    Porto CristoCala MarcalCala Sa Nau

    SantanyiSoller

    Sa Calobra

    Also contains info on:Cala MitjanaCala Varquer

    GUIDEMiniMallorcan Psicoblocby Daimon Beail

    Version 1.0 - March 2006

    ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.Published by ROCKFAX Ltd ROCKFAX Ltd 2006

    Mallorcan PsicoblocMallorcan PsicoblocA Deep Water Soloing

    guide to MallorcaA Deep Water Soloing

    guide to Mallorca

    James Cole making a splashdownat Sa Calobra.

    Photo: Daimon Beail

  • Welcome to this MiniGUIDE to deep water soloing in Mallorca. The aim of this guide is to bring to light the existing venues on the island and to give those people wishing to deep water solo in Mallorca a point in the right direction.

    Deep water soloing is still in the early stages of development on Mallorca and many new routes are being added to existing crags, plus whole new areas are being found. This MiniGUIDE should be regarded as an interim guide and hopefully sometime in the future a printed book will be produced to give more complete coverage.Since this information is relatively untested, there may well be mistakes in some of the details. Please email - [email protected] if you find anything that you think is missing or incorrect, or wish to inform us about new routes and crags.

    Mallorca is part of the Spanish Island chain known as the Balearics, which is in the Mediterranean. As well as being a hot tourist spot in the summer months it is also home to a wealth of climbing, most specifically, as far as this MiniGUIDE is concerned, deep water soloing. The DWS climbing in Mallorca is first class - stunning limestone cliffs covered in pockets, jugs, crimps and tufas, catering for many styles. The many routes available go from as small as five metres to as big as twenty and grades range from 4+ to 8a, most of which carry the S0 tag. There is little or no tide in the Med, something that can become a pain in places like the UK, so the only things to look out for are: rough sea conditions and the possibility of strong currents.

    INTRODUCTION

    WHEN TO GOMost climbers tend to go to Mallorca in late September, early October when the sea is still warm and the average air temperature is in the low 20s. Late October turns into the wettest time of the year so don't leave it too late. April to June are also possibilities but a wetsuit might be needed.

    by Daimon BeailVersion 1.0 - March 2006

    ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan.Published by ROCKFAX Ltd. ROCKFAX Ltd. 2006

    COPYRIGHT NOTICEAll rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, or by any electronic,mechanical or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher.

    .

    FOOTNOTEThe inclusion of a climbing area in this MiniGUIDE does not mean that you have a right ofaccess or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes and grades within thisMiniGUIDE are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed onthe accuracy of the description. Climbers who attempt a climb of a particular standardshould use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle thatclimb. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors andpublisher of this MiniGUIDE do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to,or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance onthis guidebook as an assurance for their own safety.

    Mallorcan Psicobloc MiniGUIDE

    Special thanks to: Alan James, Heidi Spets, James Cole, Mike Robertson, Tim Skinner, Catriona Scott, Katherine Burr, Miquel Riera and

    Josh Lowell. S P A I N

    PO

    RT

    UG

    AL

    F R A N C E

    Palma

    Malaga

    Alicante

    BarcelonaMadrid

    Mallorca

    Page 01

  • INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION

    Page 03

    ACCESSMost of Mallorca is private land but so far access to the venues has not been an issue. As always, take great care when approaching any of the cliffs, don't disturb the vegetation of fences and walls, and leave politely if asked to do so.

    GRADESAll Grades are presented in a dual format. French grades give the technical aspect of the route and the British "S" grade delivers the general impression of what it's like to solo the route.

    S0 = Safe and relatively non-committing. Usually with a low crux move and any falls lead to a clean projection into the water.

    S1 = A caution rating. Normally the routes are higher making the falls a bit harder. They may also contain a high crux making stepping off them clearly a bit more tricky.

    S2 = Contains most of the elements of an S1 but may also have protruding ledges above or below the water. In some cases the water may be shallow in places making it a lot more committing and bailing out will require a bit of precision to get into the water safely.

    S3 = The connoisseur's DWS. Heady to on-sight! Often shallow, high cruxes, exposed and often genuinely dangerous. Take care! S3 description taken from Mike Robertson's article Mallorcan Devils Climber (UK), Feb 2002

    GEAR: YOU AND YOUR SAFETYWhat to take? In September and October: not a lot.The water is so warm that a wet suit is not needed. If you are prepared to wear a shorty then this may help with buoyancy in the water. Two pairs of boots and a chalk bag are all you really need, along with plenty of chalk and sandwich bags to line the inside of your chalk bag. A dinghy is essential for some routes, as they require a boat start. These can be picked up from tourist hot spots very cheaply.One or two places could do with a rope ladder to get out of the water, so if you have one take it along.It goes without saying that you need to be physically fit for Deep Water Soloing. Being a strong swimmer is an essential part of the sport. Always climb in teams of two or more. Never ever solo alone! Make sure that you can always get out of the water by means of ropes etc. It is also a very good idea to take some kind of flotation device, which can be used to assist in a rescue if something should go wrong.A first aid kit and some basic knowledge of how to use it would be helpful. Be sure to judge your own safety at all times especially when in the sea. Remember once you're in it you are going to have to get out of it.

    Be safe and enjoy yourself!

    NEW ROUTESNew route and area information can be emailed to [email protected].

    OTHER GUIDESAt present there are no other books on DWS for the island but there are some in the pipeline. The MiniGuide to Mallorca was published in 2004. A new print guide will be available in November 2006.

    HISTORYMallorca is a well known and popular destination for climbers seeking high quality sport routes and good weather. It was not until the late nineties that a certain group of individuals discovered that Mallorca was hiding a big secret 'Deep Water Soloing - a sport which had been developed on the many sea cliffs in the UK.It was in 1992 that Miguel Riera first shed light on the possibilities of Deep Water Soloing in Mallorca by emailing a picture of Porto Cristo's "Cova Del Diable" to the UK climbing community. Not until 9 years later, in October 2001, did Porto Cristo get its first major international visit from Mike Robertson, Tim Emmet and friends. They met with Austrian Klem Loskot and his crew to explore Cova Del Diable and the surrounding areas. Within one week they had managed to put up over 26 routes ranging from 4+ to 8a which, once added to Miguel Riera's three exciting routes, made 29 in total. In February 2002 Mike Robertson's article about Cove Del Diable was published in the UK's Climber magazine, revealing its location and all 29 routes. The following year (2002) the team returned to add lines to Cove Del Diable and explore further possibilities. In 2003 Cala Sa Nau was also developed along with Sa Calobra, Cala Santanyi and Port De Soller. The latter three crags were developed by a small team of Deep Water Soloers exploring alternative environments which were home to some less intimidating routes. Development continues to this day with people from around the world visiting this island to explore new areas.

    FLIGHTSFlights to Mallorca can be found with many

    companies the main ones are:

    BMI: www.flybmi.com

    British Airways: www.britishairways.com

    Easy Jet: www.easyjet.com

    Thomson Fly.com: www.thomsonfly.com

    Airtours: www.airtours.co.uk

    Air Berlin: www.airberlin.com

    All flight are to Palma.

    GETTING AROUNDA hire car is the best choice. Lots of accommodation

    companies deal directly with their own car

    companies making things easier when booking. If you

    choose to book separately there are many to be

    found on the web. It's best to book before you go.

    ACCOMMODATIONThere are lots of fantastic villas, apartments and hotels

    on offer but no camping. Wild camping is allowed but

    restrictions are in place making it quite difficult to do.

    See www. dwsworld.com and www.rockfax.com for

    more details. Out of season the villas are a very

    reasonable price and highly recommended.

    There are also many cheap package holidays to be

    found on the net and with travel agents.

    SHOPSThere are supermarkets in most of the towns and

    there is a large hypermarket in Palma that will cater

    for all your needs.

    Opening times in Mallorca are normally between

    10:00 to 13:30 hrs and 16:00 to around 20:00 hrs.

    Shops will normally be closed on national holidays

    and Sundays.

    The currency is Euros.

    1 A good route.

    2 A very good route.

    3 A brilliant route.

    t Technical climbing involving complex or trick moves.p Powerful moves requiring big arms.

    s Sustained climbing, either long and pumpy or with lots of hard moves.

    f Fingery climbing - sharp holds!r A long reach is helpful/essential.

    g Rounded holds may be found.o A dyno is required.

    h Heart Fluttery climbing.l Loose Rock.

    d Death Route.

    q A Deep Water Solo. 4

    123

    - 4+ and under- 5 to 6a+- 6b to 7a- 7a+ and above

    Symbol Key CONTENTSPorto Cristo Page 04Cala Marcal Page 14Cala Sa Nau Page 19Santanyi Page 21Soller Page 23Sa Calobra Page 26Cala Mitjana Page 29Cala Varquer Page 29

    Mountain peak

    PMV401-2

    Page 02

    MAP KEYLH

    Minor roadHighwayMain RoadDirt trackRiver or stream

    River in built up areaWay to destinationPathBouldersVegetationHouse or Hotel

    Parking

    Lighthouse

    Town or village

    Built up area

    Mountainous area

    Buildings

    Road number

    Anchorage

  • Page 05Page 04

    Some would describe Cove Del Diable as being for the hardcore DWS super star, and they would probably be right. Twenty metre high cliffs and steep routes are a nightmare for some but a fantastic dream for others. The cove showcases an awesome overhanging wave of limestone covered in jugs, pockets and crimps. To the right-hand side, looking inward from the sea, the walls become more vertical and turn into virtual slab climbs. Although it is an intimidating environment the climbing is not as bad as it first appears. Before long you may well find yourself tackling a juggy 6c or even a 7a+. The highlight for many is the awe-inspiring Superwoman 7a+ that combines every climbing style imaginable.There is no doubt that you will find something that will inspire and motivate you to make a return trip, as every route at Diablo deserves a star rating.

    PORTO CRISTO

    HISTORY If you read the Introduction at the beginning of this guide you will know that Cove Del Diable is what started it all. A picture emailed to the UK climbing scene from Miguel Riera, one of Mallorca's most active climbers, led to an international climbing meet nine years on in October 2001. The likes of Austrian Klem Loskot, British DWS legends Mike Robertson and Tim Emmet descended on the cove to produce over 20 routes. The cove also attracted a large amount of media coverage which included a number of short films and numerous magazine articles.

    APPROACH Cova Del Diable is on the edge of the small town of Porto Cristo on the east coast. From Manacor take the PM-402 road to Porto Cristo. Once you reach the sea front turn right following the one-way system until you can turn back on yourself and head along the sea front with the ocean on your right. Head up the hill and keep going straight on along the main road into the housing estate. Take the first right, followed by the first left. At the end turn right again and follow the road all the way until you find yourself on the cliff road. Turn left along this and follow it all the way untill it turns sharply left away from the coast. Park on the corner and from here it's a short walk to the cliff edge.

    CONDITIONSThe crag faces south east and can get a lot of sun so it stays fairly dry. There is not much seepage around except in spring /early summer when the cove can go from bone dry to soaking wet over night. The holds are generally in very good condition although from time to time they can become greasy from humidity and ocean spray.

    PORTO CRISTO Cova Del Diable

    AUIOP4 min

    Crag

    Map not to scale

    Porto Cristo

    C715

    Porto Cristo Novo

    PM402

    C715

    C714

    Cala Morlanda

    Cala Moreia

    Sa ComaMANACOR

    PM402

    Map not to scale

    Porto Cristo

    PMV401-4

    Cova Del DiableArea

    Routes 1

    to 22

    Route 23

    Easy Way Down

    Very Easy

    Way Dow

    n

    Map not to scale

    Cova Del DiableArea

    PMV401-4

    'James Cole' making his way into the cove. (Photo by Daimon Beail)

  • 1 2

    3

    4 5

    17

    P

    P

    17

    6

    7

    The Italian Job ...........2pqc F6b (S1)Seriously overhanging, but the combination of big bucket holds and plenty of them give this route the grade. It works its way up the bulging left edge of the main amphitheatre of Cova Del Diable.FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001

    Swing Both Ways ......1pqc F6c (S1)A harder alternative to the above, takes a more direct route in the midsection, through more powerful territory.FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001

    Surfing Bird ............3ptqc F7b (S1)From the lower ledge, follow the red/cream streak up through bold ground onto the higher bulge and finally the top!FA. Miguel Riera 1992

    1

    2

    3

    Lets Ave It! .......2pfoqc F7c+ (S2)Very steep! A sea-level start from the left-hand cave, watch the depth for the beginning and work your way to a recess midway up the face.FA. Klem Loskot, Oct 2001

    Iguanadon ...............3pqc F7b+ (S1)Similar territory to the route above, following a long juggy rail through the most intensive ground then to the same recess halfway up the crag. FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001

    4

    5

    Surfer Dead ..........2phqc F6c+ (S2)Makes its way up the right edge of the big central cave, pushing on into steep territory. Keep well right of the hanging tufa and be ready for the last few moves which are the crux, few footholds here!FA. Miguel Riera 1992

    6 7 Surfing In The Bar 2phqc F7a (S2)The going is straightforward early on, via numerous large holds into a high cave, then be prepared for an exposed last blast to the top. FA. Miguel Riera 1992

    ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 1 to 3 are reached by traversing in from the left-hand side of crag or abseiling in. Routes 4 and 5 require you either to swim to the bottom of the routes or use a dinghy. Exit either from your self-made exit point on the left, or swim to themain exit point at the "easy way down" area.

    CONDITIONS - Routes 4 and 5 may be greasy earlier on in the year due to them being in the back of the cave.

    AJPU4minROUTES - The routes are steep and fierce but generally on juggy holds.

    PORTO CRISTO Cova Del Diable - Left PORTO CRISTO Cova Del Diable - Left

    "Cova Del Diable" in October. Photo by Daimon Beail

    Page 06 Page 07

  • ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 8 & 9 are reached by either abseiling in roughly down the line of The Lobster and using the cave at the bottom as a base (may need to clip into a thread or two to keep the rope into the wall as it is steep) or traverse along Superwoman until you reach the cave. Routes 10 to 14 , traverse Superwoman to the bottom of the routes. Exit 'Easy Way Down' area or climb the knotted rope onto the ledge.

    AJPU4minROUTES - These are the cove's true classics. Steep intimidating and hard. Only the Free Born Man achievers can enter here!!

    PORTO CRISTO Cova Del Diable - Middle PORTO CRISTO Cova Del Diable - Middle

    Page 08 Page 09

    17

    7

    8

    9

    17

    910 11

    1213

    14 15

    16

    The Lobster ..............3pqc F6c+ (S2)Great route! long and steep, on good holds all the way to a lay-down rest two-thirds of the way up. Finish off with a relatively easy roof section right at the top. FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001

    8

    9

    10

    11

    Ejector Seat .................3pqcF7c (S1)Another of the great routes here! Fire up the steep, pocketed face to a crux move for a tufa pinch, and then swing right to easier ground.FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001

    In The Night, Every Cat Is Black ............................................2pqc F8a+ (S1)Quality rock, immaculate and sustained climbing through a number of coloured streaks to a faint groove on the right.FA. Klem Loskot, Oct 2001

    Lock, Stock & Two Smoking Barrels..............................2pothqc F8a+( S1)Still the hardest dws in Spain as far as we know. Sustained climbing to a v10 boulder problem a dyno to a twin-barrel pocket at an altitude of 40ft. Be afraid!FA. Klem Loskot, Oct 2001

    Hair Bear................. 2spqc F7c (S1)Tackles the horrendously steep wall to the left of Afroman through a complex sequence of moves then rightwards to easier ground.FA. Ken Palmer, Oct 2001

    Afroman.............3stpqc 7b+ (S1)A really good steep route, one of the best in the cove. Exit the cave on well-positioned pockets, negotiating your way up to the crux moves to gain the horizontal seam. More technical moves gain the niche, and a well deserved rest.FA. Tim Emmett - Oct 2001

    12

    13

    Whiplash.................3stpqc 7c (S1)A steep sequency route directly right of Afroman. Hard to flash.FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001

    14

    Rope

    'Heidi Spets' taking control of Diable. Photo by Daimon Beail'Daimon Beail' Climbing The Italian Job F6b (S1). Photo by Peter Brown

  • 17

    14

    15

    16

    18

    19

    ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 15 to 20 are easily reached by down climbing the Easy Way Down line all the way to a cave. Some people may prefer descending using a knotted rope slightly to the right. Tie the rope around a flake to keep the rope on the correct path.You can always reverse White Noise to the cave which makes a good warm up. Exit: from the water exit. Make sure a good knotted rope is in place or even better, a rope ladder.

    AJOU4minROUTES - Things begin to ease off around here and there's plenty to do. The trick is to have a cool head and you will be surprised what you can achieve. All the routes start from the small cave.

    PORTO CRISTO Cova Del Diable - Easy Way Down Area PORTO CRISTO Cova Del Diable - Easy Way Down Area

    Page 10 Page 11

    18

    20

    Calamares......................3pqc 6c (S1)Easier ground, starting from the line of Superwoman, straight up the steep juggy groove.FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001

    Dogging Romp .............3qc 6a+ (S1)A good introduction to the cove, head leftwards up an obvious diagonal break. Near its end move directly up and over the easy roof section and onto a large ledge.FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001

    Superwoman.....3stpqc 7a+ (S0)A classic long traverse which takes in all that the cove has to offer. Starts from cave at the bottom of the Easy Way Down and works your way through varied climbing at various levels above the sea. FA. Ken Palmer, Oct 2001

    White Noise...................3sqc 5+ (S0)Wonderful climbing across clean rock with numerous pockets and the odd tricky move. Normally done from right to left finishing at the cave at the bottom of the Easy Way Down. Its a good way to make your way into the cove. Continue if you can into Superwoman for the ultimate tick!FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001

    First Impressions..........2tqc 6a (S1)A delicate route which climbs the coloured prow just right of the Easy Way Down. FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001

    18

    19

    15

    16

    17

    Easy Way Down

    Easy Way Down

    Water Exit

    Water Exit

    Rope Way Down

    Slice Of Heaven................3qc 4+ (S1)A great route at a friendly grade. Starts on the traverse of White Noise, crosses the next groove via great holds and on to the airy prow to the right. Make your way up the juggy groove to finish.FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001

    20

    ....................................... c 4 (S2)Climb down onto a large ledge and traverse rightwards until you come to an easy ramp line. Descend this to its end, make your way over a mini slab and move right into a little cave. From here climb down and slightly to the left on good chalked up holds into the cave.

    Easy Way Down

    'Bernard Exley' on the crux of "Super Woman" 7a+ (S0) at Cova Del Diable. Photo by Peter Brown

  • ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 21 to 22 are reached by reversing White Noise from the boulder beach. Route 23 is on a headland that sticks out like a boot further right looking in. Walk to the far left-hand side of the cliff and descend where it looks possible to do so. Exit: for 21 and 22 from the main water exit or the boulder beach. Route 23 swim to the left-hand side of the crag (looking in) to the pebble beach.

    AIOU4minROUTES - The Routes 21 and 22 are easy and ever so slightly slabby, hence the S1 and S2 tags. Route 23 is also easy and normally in good condition.

    PORTO CRISTO Cova Del Diable - Right PORTO CRISTO Cova Del Diable - Right

    Page 12 Page 13

    18

    21 2222

    18

    20

    The Voyage....................3sqc 6a (S0)A long traverse over very safe ground and on great holds. This route is on the isolated headland further east along the coast. Start at the left side of the crag (looking out to sea) and traverse along the slightly overhanging wall untill you reach an easy groove after about 50m. FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001

    23

    Eternal Flame .................2qc 5+ (S1)This route has the holds and pockets of the main cave, but in vertical territory. Drop into the big cave via White Noise, exiting directly up the wall on the right.FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001

    Bonobo...............................2qc 5+ (S2)Follow the path of White Noise to the smooth slab at the far end, then climb the groove to the right of this on juggy holds.FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001

    21

    22

    Map not to scale

    The VoyageArea

    23

    'Frank Fulcher' traversing "White Noise" 5+ (S0). Photo by Daimon Beail

  • Page 15Page 14

    Cala Marcal is a newly developed area but it seems that one or two of the locals or visiting tourists may have had a go at the odd traverse previously. There are two areas to the crag: The Cala Wall Area and the Main Cliff. Both are easily reached from the parking at the top. In fact this may be the first DWS roadside crag.On a safety note it is worth mentioning that exits can be tricky here. It is possible to scramble out at one or two places but the climbing from these points to the top is hard. You are best advised to bring a rope ladder for safer exits.

    CALA MARCAL

    APPROACH Cala Marcal is one cala south of Porto Colom which is on the south east side of the island.It is relatively easy to get to by following the PM-401 to Porto Colom, then following signs south to Cala Marcal. You will know you are at Cala Marcal when you reach a small sandy beach with a large hotel featuring words Cala Marcal stamped on it. From the beach, continue up the hill and follow the road round to the left (not the first left asits a one-way street) and keep going until you reach a roundabout. Carry straight on until you reach the end where you can park. The main cliff is just in front of you.

    CONDITIONSThe crag faces south east which means it gets a lot of sun in the morning but by late afternoon becomes shady. The crag is about 17 metres high and pretty much always eases off at the top. Early in the year, like in June, you may find some of the overhanging routes can get a bit greasy but most of the vertical climbs generally stay in excellent condition.

    CALA MARCAL

    AHEOP

    The Marcal Traverse.....1qc F5 (S0)A short and easy warm up. Join the sea cliff were the sharp grey walls finish and the delights of the orange juggy wall start. Follow this all the way past the roof section and exit at the small platform where it gets sharp again. FA. J.Cole, S.Hazel, D.Beail & F.Fulcher 14.06.05

    Rat Dog ..........................1qc F6a (S0)Follow the traverse to the roof section and power over it mostly on the right.FA. J.Cole 14.06.05

    2

    A group outing on Rat Dog (F6a) Photo by Frank Fulcher

    LADD

    ER

    Crag

    Cala d'Or

    S'Horta

    Cala SerenaCala Ferrera

    Es Domingos

    Calasde

    Mallorca

    Cas Concos

    Sant Salvador

    SaPlanaVella

    PORTO

    COLOM

    Cala Sa Nau

    PM401

    PMV401-2

    C714

    C717C717

    PMV401-2

    PM401

    FELANITX

    Cala Marcal

    Map not to scale

    PortoColom

    Crag

    Cala Marcal

    Map not to scale

    Shop

    HOTEL

    Map not to scale

    1 2

    Rout

    es 3

    to 12

    3Gully

    8

    Cala Marcal

    AlqueriaBlanca

    LH

    Swim to the ladder

    Rat Dog Roof

    Easy Way Down 2

    Easy Way Down

    1

  • The Fat Crab..............2rqc F6b+ (S2)Traverse onto main wall and attack the crack line which finishes at half-height below a slightly bulging wall. Make some moves out right to better holds, and up to the overlap. Traverse back left until you reach a gap in the lip. Pull onto a small shelf and reach for the top. Good Luck!FA. James Cole 19.06.05

    ET v Predator....................1qc F6b (S1)Moving further right past The Fat Crab you reach a sharp stuck out fin and further still an overlapping wall. Climb the left side of this wall to the right side of the cave which leads to easier ground above.FA. James Cole 14.06.05

    4

    CALA MARCAL The Main Cliff - Left CALA MARCAL The Main Cliff - Middle

    Page 16 Page 17

    ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 3 to 5 are approached by descending the Easy Way Down and traversing past the gully .Routes 6 to12 are found 20 metres further north east where another easy way down can be found. Exit using a rope ladder at the first 'Easy Way Down' area or make some tricky moves exiting around the gully area. Alternatively you could use the small cave a bit further north east along the cliff.

    4min

    ROUTES - The routes are all on good juggy holds and most are at relatively easy angles.

    CONDITIONS - Routes 4 and 5 can get greasy in the mornings and late evenings.

    3

    P

    Mortal Combat........2pqc F6b+ (S0)Attack the overlapping wall on good holds until you reachthe lip. Follow the two pockets over the lip and move left to find a large jug. Climb the rib from here.FA. Daimon Beail 14.06.05

    20 metres north east from the gully is another easy way down which leads to the start of:

    Canada.....................................qc F4 (S1)From the bottom of the easy way down follow the curving flake to its end and head to the top from there.FA. Daimon Beail 19.06.05

    Aquafresh ....................1fqc F7a (S1)A fine little wall, just left of the lippy section, offers crimpy climbing via a sloping side-pull. The starting hold is a good two-finger pocket for the right hand.FA. Daimon Beail 19.06.05

    6

    77

    5 88 Lady Boys .........................3qc F5+ (S0)Find the large hold under the lip on the left and move onto the upper wall following massive holds to the top.FA. James Cole 19.06.05

    Higher than the Sun......1qc F6a (S0)Good climbing on equally good holds. Tricky start.FA. James Cole 19.06.05

    The Odyssey......................2qc F5 (S0)A nice traverse winding its way along the lower break, past a cave, to the arete, where an easy-angled flake leads you to the top. FA. Daimon Beail 19.06.05

    10

    9

    AHEOPLADDER

    Easy Way Down

    Way Out

    Gully

    Gully

    Easy Way Down 2

    34

    5

    6 7

    8

    9

    10

    Easy Way Down

  • Groove Rider ................2qc F6a+ (S0)To the right of the small roof is a crack line. Jamming and laybacks lead you to the top. FA. Daimon Beail 19.06.05

    Time......................... ......2fqc F6a (S0)An alternative finish to The Odyssey. Moving out of thecave and onto the face requires some thin diagonal movesto the upper right-hand corner. Here you will find a small flatledge above which some easier climbing leads to the top.FA. Daimon Beail 19.06.05

    12

    CALA MARCAL The Main Cliff - Right

    Page 18 Page 19

    11

    CALA SA NAUCala Sa Nau is a small sandy cove sheltered from the sea by two headlands, one of which is

    home to an exciting DWS venue. The headland on the right-hand side of the bay (looking

    out to sea) starts quite small on the left and increases in height the further right you go.

    At its far right side is a large cave where most of the hard climbing can be found. If you

    continue right, round the headland, you will see a small cove with a mini-cave at the back.

    This is where virgin Deep Water Soloers should hang out; although the climbing is limited

    here, it can keep you entertained for a few hours with short, mid-grade lines.

    As the majority of the cave venues have only been mentioned in magazine articles and no

    topos are available, only the Virgin DWS venue is covered in this MiniGuide.

    APPROACH From Felanitx, navigate your way around the one-way streets to find the PM-401 signposted

    to Porto Colom. Eventually you will join the road from Porto Cristo. Turn right, keeping on the

    PM-401 to Porto Colom. When you eventually come to the junction turn, left and fairly soon

    after that, make a right signed PMV401-2 to Santanyi. Follow this until you reach the little

    village of S'Horta. Turn left, following signs to Cala Ferrera, and shortly on the left you will see

    a sign pointing to Cala Sa Nau. Follow this dirt track all the way to the end and park here.

    From the narrow parking area, walk along the right-hand side of the bay until you reach

    some steps cut into the rock. From here you can cut across right to reach the Virgin DWS

    venue or continue straight on to the harder DWS routes with the large cave at the

    right-hand end of the headland.

    Crag

    Calad'Or

    S'Horta

    AlqueriaBlanca

    Cala SerenaCala Ferrera

    Es Domingos

    Calasde

    Mallorca

    Cas Concos

    Sant Salvador

    Cala Marcal

    SaPlanaVella

    PORTO

    COLOM

    Cala Sa Nau

    PM401

    PMV401-2

    C714

    C717C717

    PMV401-2

    PM401

    FELANITX

    Map not to scaleCala Egos

    Map not to scale

    Crag

    Cala Sa Nau

    Large Cave

    Mini Cave

    10

    11

    12

    Cave

    Daimon Beail climbingLady Boys 5+ (S0) at Cala Marcal. Photo by James Cole

    Big UP's Dosage series is the definitive annual portrait of climbing's state-of-the-art.

    Volume 2 introduced the world to Mallorca's incredible DWS scene with the short film Psicobloc, winner of six international mountain film festival awards, and Psicobloc 2, featuring Chris Sharma's first visit to the island. Available at:

    www.bigUPproductions.com

  • Virgins Are Only Human.................................................2qc F6b+ (S0)Walk up the simple ramp until you reach the roof. Then traverse out right and nip up the right side of the roof.FA. Bernard Exley, Oct 2004

    Gen Lock ..........................2qc F6a (S0)A nice short route starting out of the water from a little underwater ledge. Make your way up to the roof and find those hidden buckets, then power to the top.FA. Daimon Beail, Oct 2004

    I Tell Thee...............................qc F4+ (S0)Start as for Gen Lock and then make a rising traverse right to the obvious exit.FA. Daimon Beail, Oct 2004

    Coldron ..................................qc F5 (S0)Start slightly right of I Tell Thee and make a direct ascent of the wall to the same exit.FA. James Cole, Oct 2004 Frogger ...............................qc F4+ (S1)Start from the same ledge as Coldron, traverse rightwards to the arete and then climb to the top from there. Watch out for the little ledge below. FA. Heidi Spets, Oct 2004

    C++ .......................................qc F4+ (S0)Start as for Frogger but then climb the faint arete. FA. Peter Brown, Oct 2004

    Little Fish..............................qc F5+ (S2)Start as for Frogger and make your way along the cliff until you reach the sandy arete which you finish up. Half way through the traverse you will reach a little cave where the climbing is above a ledge, so take care! FA. Heidi Spets, Oct 2004

    CALA SA NAU Left

    Page 21Page 20

    ACCESS / APPROACH - Route 1 is gained by a simple down climb and a little walk along a ledge until you start climbing.Routes 2 to 7 are traditionally approached from the water or by reversing Route 5.

    6 7

    2

    3

    4

    5

    6

    7

    "The virgin area" Photo by Daimon Beail

    SANTANYI Although a wonderful place to be, the deep water soloing is limited, however the small number of routes are great fun, especially the cave route Super Sonic. When climbing at Cala Santanyi there are one or two things to look out for:

    1) Some holds are a bit frail in places although this can add to the fun as the routes are not that high. 2) Be careful in the Cove Area as the water is a bit shallow towards the back. 3) The bay can be hit by freak waves at times, which makes the climbing a bit more interesting. 4) A boat is useful as the Super Sonic Area is on the other side of the bay, but you could always just swim over to it if you are a strong swimmer.

    If you find your need for adventure starts to take over you may want to take a short drive toEs Pontas. This archway is a serious-but-fun outing and there are a number of small problems dotted around it as well as some new hard projects. Getting to it is not easy.

    APPROACHCala SantanyiFrom Santanyi, follow signs for Cala Santanyi out of the village. Take the second turning signed to Cala Santanyi off this road (ignore the first turning). Then take the first left turn and then the first right turn (signed 'HR Palmaria'). Continue along this road, past a roundabout with a tree and park by the barrier across the private road leading to a tower.LEAVE NOTHING VALUABLE IN THE CAR.From here walk towards the tower and turn right at the end. Follow the path and descendand to the platform below. When you reach the sea turn right and walk along the mini cliff until you get to The Cove.

    Es PontasFollow signs all the way to Cala Santanyi and when you reach the bottom of the steep hill you will find signs to Es Pontas. Follow the road back up the bay, past the car park, and turn left up the steep hill. Once at the top of the hill, turn left to take the coastal road and keep a sharp eye out for the Es Pontas signs. If you are lucky you will find yourself eventually reaching a dead end. Park around here but do not block the entrance to the wooded area that leads to the cliff edge. Follow the well-trodden path all the way through the wood until you reach the cliff edge.

    SANTANYI

    C717

    Calad'Or

    Crags

    C717

    CalaSantanyi

    PortoPetro

    CalaFiguerai

    Map not to scale

    CalaSantanyi

    Es Pontas

    CragsMap not to scale

    610-2

    PM610

    C717

    Llombards

    PMV401-2

    Alqueria Blanca

    610-2

    C714

    Cala Llombards

    Exit: under the start of Route 1.

    CONDITIONS - Big holds but a little greasy in places when humid.

    1

    1

    2

    3

    4

    5

    AUIOP10 min

    "The large cave" Photo by Daimon Beail

  • Bird Watching ..............................qc 6b (S0)We are not talking about ones with wings. From the platform climb the flake and then traverse the break-line to the other platform.FA. Julian Chapman 3.10.03

    6

    2

    SANTANYI - Cala Santanyi

    Page 22 Page 23

    Super Sonic .....................3fpqc 7a (S0)Traverse left from the platform into the little cave. Climb out across the lip of the cave on good holds until almost half way. Climb diagonally up from here.FA. D.Beail 3.10.03

    Naked Germans ......................1qc 4+ (S0)This is also a good descent route.FA. D.Beail 3.10.03

    Wave Machine .........................1qc 5+ (S0)FA. D.Beail 3.10.03

    Vino Master ..................................qc 6a (S0)FA. Julian Chapman 3.10.03

    Mr Smith ....................................1qc 6a (S1)It gets a bit shallow towards the back of the cave which is where you will finish this one.FA. S.Smith 3.10.03

    1

    ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 1 & 2 are reached by swimming across to the Platform. Routes 3 to 5 swim accross to the slightly submerged platform and traverse right from here. Route 6 is gained by climbing down from base camp and into the cove.

    1

    2

    Exit Point

    Platform

    4 53 6

    3

    4

    5

    6

    AOPU 4 minBOAT

    SUPER SONIC AREA

    THE COVE

    ES PONTAS

    Map not to scale

    The Cove

    SuperSonicArea

    Sport Crag

    Cala Santanyi

    SERRA DE

    TRAMU

    NTANA

    SOLLER Port De Soller's DWS crag is a quiet little gem which is difficult to get to hence it is hidden away from the crowds. It's bigger than it looks from the beach but there is nothing higher than 10 metres except at the end, where the crag rises to around fifteen metres. This crag is best visited if you happen to be staying in the area. Don't go out of your way especially if you're enjoying the delights of the east coast.There is a lot more to do here but nothing amazing except for the far right-hand side of the crag where it is at its highest.

    The entire crag is undercut and in most places the sea floor is way under you. On the other side of the bay there is a fantastic looking cave with a lighthouse on top. Unfortunately this is military owned and it is strongly recommended you stay well clear of it.

    APPROACHFrom Palma take the C711 signposted to Soller. After 14 kilometres you will come to a tunnel. You can either pay to nip through the tunnel or save money and drive over the top, but you will probably spend the same on petrol as you would on the toll.When you reach the other side, keep going all the way until you reach a roundabout. Don't turn off into Soller, instead keep going and follow signs to Port de Soller. Follow this road until you arrive in the port. Parking is best found around the back streets.From the left-hand side of the bay, make your way along the water's edge until it gets rocky. There is a path that follows a disused pipe, which is covered in concrete. Follow this down the coast as far as you can onto the rocky beach. There is a large dusty rock pillar which prevents you from continuing any further without getting wet. Launch your dingy from here and paddle across to the crag, or swim.

    CONDITIONSThe main crag faces east so it generally gets the morning to early afternoon sun.

    Crag

    Portde

    Soller

    SaCalobra

    POLLENCA

    Map not to scale

    Selva

    INCA

    Sa Pobla

    AlaroC711 C713

    C710

    C710

    PM27

    PM213

    C710

    PM210

    PM211

    PM312

    PM344

    PM324

    C713

    PM220

    SOLLER

    TUNNEL

    1348m

    1102m

    1090m

    PM210

    MOD

    Map not to scale

    Port de Soller

    Crag LHLH

    Landing Platform

  • 62

    SOLLER - Port De Soller - Left

    Page 24 Page 25

    Aqua Phobia.........................3fqc 6c (S0)Excellent traverse done from right to left. The clue is make your way under the shelf then up and left, using a big thread. This is the start to route 2 as well. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03

    Little Blue...........................1fqc 6b+ (S0)Start as for Aqua Phobia then make your way up the arete on jugs. It gets F6b+ for the start, the rest is probably F5.FA. D.Beail 28.09.03

    It Tastes Like The Sea.........fdqc 7b (S2)The blank arete right of Little Blue.FA. S.Smith 28.09.03

    1

    Routes 1 and 2 start from the platform. Be slightly careful getting onto the start of them as there are one or two ledges sticking out and the odd greasy hold. Descend by clambering over thetop and back to the landing platform or jump off into the sea.

    3

    AOIW15 minBOAT

    1

    23

    65 8

    Map not to scale

    LandingPlatform

    Port de SollerLanding Platform

    110 11

    12

    ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 4 to 11 are reached by either traversing "Little Princess" from the platform or walking slightly above the crag through all those nasty bushes. Alternatively you could just use a dingy as it is quite easy to get on to land around this area.

    4min

    SOLLER - Port De Soller - Right

    A Passage To The New......qc 6a+ (S1)Follow the ramp line to the roof and climb the right-hand side to the top. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03

    Pots.............................................qc 6b (S0)Follow the crack line under the ramp to the roof and finish as for A Passage To The New. FA. S.Smith 28.09.03

    Squid.................................2fqc 6b (S0)Traverse right low down from the left side of the face until you reach a flake. Climb this and finish as for A PTT New. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03

    Dim Dim.............................2fqc 5 (S0)There is a wall right of the face, climb the part that bulges slightly over the water and veer left at the top. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03

    The Ease Of Passage.............qc 3 (S3)The easy way up, or down. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03

    Deep Sea Climbing...............qc 5+ (S1)There are plenty of little lines but the route up the stuck-on flake is the nicest. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03

    It Could Go On........................qc 6a (S0)This wall is big, and this route travels diagonally left, on fantastic holds, starting at the base of the big easy flake.Carry on until you reach the massive hole. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03

    Big Easy Flake.........................qc 4 (S1)Climb it.FA. D.Beail 28.09.03

    Little Princess.......................qc 6b+ (S0)The mighty traverse from the landing platform takes you to the far end of the crag. If done low down it provides some interesting climbing. Finish up Big Easy Flake.The hard bits can normally be bypassed higher up. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03

    AOIW20 minBOAT

    4

    5

    6

    7

    8

    9

    10

    11

    4

    5 6

    78 9

    10

    11

    12

  • The Mad Professor.......2qc 6c+ (S0)From the start of Little Professer head right on some fantastic rock to a tricky hand rail and a slap for a large bucket. Continue as far as you can and bale out just before the water gets shallow.FA. D.Beail 17.06.05

    4

    Water Logged ....................pqc 6a (S0)Pull out of the water and follow the big flake up and right. At the top of the flake, climb up to the sloping ledge, and jump off!!FA. Julian Chapman 30.09.03

    6

    2

    SA CALOBRA SA CALOBRA Torrent-De-Pareis

    Page 26 Page 27

    Sa Calobra is a beautiful spot that can get very busy with tourists, which means your climbing activity will cause rounds of applause every now and then. It's a more relaxed venue compared to Porto Cristo with routes never exceeding fifteen metres. The climbing is found at the mouth of the Torrent-De-Pareis, which in the winter months has been known on the odd occasion, after heavy rain, to become the mouth of a fast flowing river. This is very rare, but the evidence of the river meeting the sea, is presented in the form of a pebble-mounded beach, that slopes sharply into the sea.

    The climbing is currently limited but there are many more possibilities out there. A boat is recommended, as some of the routes are difficult to pull onto from the sea. If you decide to visit Tufa Land take a backup flotation device, because if your boat bursts you're going to have a long swim back.

    APPROACHSa Calobra is on the north side of the island and the easiest way to get there is to make your way to Soller and take the C710 towards Pollenca. This road winds its way up into the mountains passing through many a tunnel and past the odd military outpost. After this longer-than-expected drive you eventually get to a major turning on the left which rollercoasters its way down to Cala Tuent and Sa Calobra. Sa Calobra can also be approached from the other direction, direct from Pollenca or from Inca.Following signs to Sa Calobra you will eventually will come to a pay and display car park on your right near the bottom of the valley. From here walk down to the sea front and turn right. Follow the path along the front until you eventually come to a series of small well-lit tunnels. Try to squeeze your way through them past the forty one thousand tourists to emerge at the other side. Observe the view.

    CONDITIONSThe biggest problem on this side of the island is rain. Because Sa Calobra is on the edge of the mountain range it tends to get dumped on (with rain) from time to time. This is obviously less of a problem in June but in mid October you will find an umbrella quite useful. The cove faces north west and because of the steepness of the surrounding cliffs /mountains the sun normally shines from about midday to early afternoon.

    Sa Pose ........................2fqc 6b+ (S0)A powerful little traverse. Follow the faint crack which leaves the massive flake on positive holds. Follow this to big side pulls and power upwards to a ledge. Work your way down the ledge to the start and do it again for the tourists who didnt spot you the first time.FA. D.Beail 30.09.03

    1

    2

    The Little Professor ..........1qc 5+ (S0)Nothing little about it. Normally done from right to left. Pull yourself out of the water or off your boat and traverse at any height, making it whatever grade you like. 5+ is an average grade.There are also some deep sea boulder problems along the way. Its a good way to make your way to Tufa Land if you dont have a boat.FA. D.Beail, S.Smith, J.Chapman 30.09.03

    1

    3

    P

    Exit PointACCESS / APPROACH - Route 1 is reached by either swimming from the beach and pulling up onto the steps using a rope, or walking round to the no entry sign on the tunnel path and crossing a weak railing. Route 2 is a swim from the beach as are routes 3 and 4.

    TUFA LAND

    THE MOUTH

    APU

    10min

    BOAT

    ROUTES: - Routes 1 and 2 are more boulder problems than routes and routes 3 and 4 are simple, but fun traverses.

    Map not to scale

    Torrent-De-Pareis

    TUNNELTUNNEL

    616

    TUFA LAND

    P

    3

    4

    Torrent-De-Pareis

    SaCalobra

    Map not to scale

    SERRA DE

    TRAMU

    NTANA

    Portde

    Soller

    SaCalobra

    POLLENCA

    Map not to scale

    Selva

    INCA

    Sa Pobla

    AlaroC711 C713

    C710

    C710

    PM27

    PM213

    C710

    PM210

    PM211

    PM312

    PM344

    PM324

    C713

    PM220

    SOLLER

    TUNNEL

    1348m

    1102m

    1090m

    PM210

    Crag

    SWIM etc

  • The Fulcher................2pqc F6b+ (S0)A fantastic line that finishes with a long jump back down to earth. Traverse the hand-rail along and down past the arete of WAX until you reach a crouching position under a crack-line. Follow this all the way until you reach a recess and an obvious finish to the route. Jump off from here.FA. D.Beail 17.06.05

    WAX.........................3tfqc F7a+ (S0)A stunning find. Still awaiting a direct finish past the large pocket. Traverse the hand-rail until you reach the arete. Climb the right-hand side of it making some sequency moves to a jug. Continue to wind your way up the face to the pockets out left. Jump from here or try the direct finish into the recess.FA. J.Cole 17.06.05

    6

    SA CALOBRA Torrent-De-Pareis

    Page 28 Page 29

    ACCESS / APPROACH - The Arena is the first area you reach just before entering the tunnels. The crag is overlooked by a viewing area which obviously means your climbing will gain a large amount of interest from tourists. You can set up camp on a rocky platform just over the left side of the railing and descend to the climbs from here.

    Exit: In calm seas exiting is extremely easy as there is an underwater ledge at the bottom of the natural descent line into the sea. In slightly rougher conditions a rope would be useful as it is a lot trickier to get out. Also climb with care at the bottom as it is normally quite slippery and wet.

    MAP

    5

    5

    6

    J

    J

    THE ARENA

    APT

    8 min

    'James Cole' soloing WAX 7a+ (S0). Photo by Daimon Beail

    Exploration on the island is ongoing with some areas having been developed but not

    documented - like Cala Sa Nau - and other areas having yet to be fully explored. There are

    also probably many excellent areas which haven't even been discovered yet. Until more

    information is unearthed, here are a few venues that are worth investigating.

    Watch www.DWSWORLD.com for updates on these venues!!

    OTHER AREAS

    Cala MitjanaCharacter and Approach:

    Further south west down the coast from

    Cala sa Nau is Cala Mitjana. A fantastic cliff of

    good height offering steep and often hard

    climbs. It is only a 15 min walk from the Cala

    Sa Nau crag and is easily recognisable from

    the ship-like mast which is situated on top

    of the crag.

    Cala VarquerCharacter:

    This is where many of the DWS masters have

    been hanging out for the past few years.

    Cala Varquer is home to some of Mallorca's

    most beautiful caves, coves and grottos. At

    the heart of it all is a beautiful golden beach.

    There's lots of routes to do and pretty much all

    the lines have been done. The information

    will be released soon online and in an up and

    coming guide by Mike Robertson.

    Approach:

    From Porto Cristo follow the the PMV401-4 towards Porto Colom. After some way you reach

    a turning on the left to Cala Romantica. Keep going until the road turns sharply to the

    right and then back left. Shortly after that point there is a dirt road on your left. Follow this

    dirt track to the end to a chained iron gate. Squeeze through and follow the path through

    the farmland and wooded section to eventually come out at the beach. Following the left-

    hand side will shortly bring you to an amazing stalactite area and quite a deep cave.

    Carrying on along the cliff edge will take you to the next area which is a set of fantastic little

    caves and a golden grotto. Enjoy!

    FEOP

    GEP

    25min

    15min