market survey for aromatherapy products in north-east...

International Scientific Conference eRA - 10

ISSN-1791-1133 1

Market survey for Aromatherapy products in North-East Romania

A. Cerempei1, R. M. Ciobanu2

1 Dpt. of Chemical Engineering in Textile and Leather, “Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University, Iasi, Romania, Tel/Fax: +40 232 230491, E-mail: [email protected]

2 Dpt. of Engineering and Management, “Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University, Iassy, Romania, Tel/Fax: +40 232 230491, E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract

Aromatherapy entered into any textile culture. Aromatextiles for topical applications can have different forms such as bandages, cosmetic pads, plasters, etc. In order to have commercial success for this kind of products, besides providing adequate technical performances, one must take into account the specific aspects of marketing. In this study, we described the aromatherapy products with topical applications that were used and we conducted a selective research regarding the acceptance degree and market potential of aroma textiles in North-East Romania. The objectives of this research consisted in determining the frequency and intent of purchasing aroma products, identifying the selection criteria and preferences of customers for a certain type of aromatherapy product, evaluating the amount that potential customers are willing to spend for purchasing an aromatherapy product. A rational approach used to reach the proposed objective consists in using a method of quantitative research - survey. The questionnaire was used as a methodological tool in achieving survey. In this survey, only the target retail market was approached. This is the middle class, educated people with professional qualification, or level above secondary school education, with age range from 22 to 65. Sampling was established using simple random sampling method, each individual having the opportunity to be included in the sample. There is no previous restriction imposed besides the minimum age of surveyed people who must have over 18 years, due a greater ability to understand the questionnaire.

Key Words: Aromatherapy, textiles, essential oils, market survey

11.. Introduction

The scarcity of resources and higher pollution levels are progressively orienting consumers and industry towards cleaner production [1]. In recent years, ecological issues have loomed large especially in textile industry, an industry not noted for eco friendliness [2]. The result of this orientation is manifested through the penetration into open market of the ecological products with benefit and competitive prices [3]. Aromatherapy textiles are the best choice for people who want to have a healthy life. In recent decades, people not only focus on using traditional medications and surgeries,

mailto:[email protected]



ISSN-1791-1133 2

but also on other complementary therapies, which lead to the quick development of natural therapies. The aim of this study is to discuss the current state of our investigation into the aromatherapy textiles with topical application, as well as the development of market survey for aromatherapy products in North-East Romania. In order to make of aromatherapy textiles a commercial success, besides providing adequate technical performances, one must take also into account specific marketing activities. In this connection, we have accomplished a selective investigation on the degree of aroma-therapeutic bandages acceptance and their potential.

22.. Aroma-therapeutic textiles utilized in marketing studies

The marketing study was carried out for textiles with aroma-therapeutic properties, obtained under laboratory conditions. Aromatextiles were obtained by applying a chitosan, bee wax or chitosan/bee wax film containing essential oils (rosemary, sage, geranium, lavender, tea tree, eucalyptus essential oils) at the surface level [4-8]. These products can be used as barrier materials, cosmetic pads, plasters, wipes or wound-care bandage.

33.. Goal and objective of marketing study

This marketing study proposes to test aroma-textiles degree of acceptance and the potential. The object of the study consists in the determination of intention and frequency to buy aroma-textiles, identification of the criterion of aroma-textile selection, evaluation of the amount of money, which the potential consumers are ready to spend to purchase an aromatherapeutic product.

44.. Research methodology

We drew up a questionnaire comprising 15 questions, to accomplish the proposed objectives. The sampling method was established by means of the simple random sampling method, each person (over 18 years) having the opportunity to be included in the batch. We processed the results of the questionnaire by means of the SPSS 18 program.

55.. Investigated group

The investigated group included 134 persons, among which 27% were men and 73% were women. 60.4% of them have higher education. Most of the interviewed persons come from urban environment, with ages between 22- 65 years and have an average income.


ISSN-1791-1133 3

66.. Results analysis and interpretation

Research hypothesis 1: The income influences the selection criteria of an aroma-therapeutic product. In order to analyze this hypothesis, we have analyzed the effect of the interaction between the “income” variable and the selection criterion of an aroma-therapeutic bandage. We have used the statistical method Anova One Way to verify this hypothesis. Data from Anova table (F(3,129)= 3.790; p= 0.012) allow us to conclude that the income influences the selection criteria of an aroma-therapeutic product. The differences between the groups are presented in the Post Hoc Table (Table 1).

Multiple Comparisons

Question no. 5** Bonferroni

(I) question no.14***

(J) question no.14 Mean Difference

(I-J) Std. Error Sig.

95% Confidence Interval

Lower Bound

Upper Bound

Under 1500 1500-2500 1.970* .663 .021 .19 3.75

2500-3000 2.113* .651 .009 .37 3.86

peste 3000 2.179* .657 .007 .42 3.94

1500-2000 1500-2500 -1.970* .663 .021 -3.75 -.19

2500-3000 .143 .241 1.000 -.50 .79

peste 3000 .209 .257 1.000 -.48 .90

2500-3000 1500-2500 -2.113* .651 .009 -3.86 -.37

2500-3000 -.143 .241 1.000 -.79 .50

peste 3000 .066 .226 1.000 -.54 .67

above 3000 1500-2500 -2.179* .657 .007 -3.94 -.42

2500-3000 -.209 .257 1.000 -.90 .48

peste 3000 -.066 .226 1.000 -.67 .54 * The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level. ***What are the criteria by which you choose an aromatherapeutic product?

*** Which is your income?

Table 1: Post Hoc

There are significant differences between the subjects with incomes under 1500 RON, and those with incomes ranging between 1500 and 2500 RON (p= 0.021) in terms of selection criteria for an aromatherapeutic product. Those with incomes under 1500 RON would buy an aromatherapeutic product recommended by a friend and the design will be important. For those with incomes between 1500- 2500 RON, what matters is the product quality. There are significant differences between the subjects with incomes under 1500 RON and those with incomes ranging between 2500- 3000 RON (p= 0.009) in terms of selection criteria for a aromatherapeutic product. For those with incomes between 2500- 3000 RON, what matters are the product quality and price.


ISSN-1791-1133 4

There are significant differences between the subjects with incomes under 1500 RON and those with incomes over 3000 RON (p= 0.007) in terms of the selection criteria for a product. For those with incomes exceeding 3000 RON, what matters are the aromatherapeutic product quality and price.

*What are the criteria by which you choose an aromatherapeutic product ?

Figure 1: Subject preference in terms of their incomes

Therefore, the research hypothesis was validated. Research hypothesis 2: The sum spent for an aromatherapeutic product influences its selection profile. In order to check up this hypothesis, we have used the statistic Anova One Way method. The data from Anova table F(2,130) =3.35, and p=0.038 allow us to conclude that the spent sum influences the selection criteria for aromatherapeutic products (Table 2).



(I) question no.10***

(J) question no.10

Mean Difference (I-

J) Std. Error Sig.


Lower Bound

Upper Bound

sub 30 lei 30-70 lei -.089 .480 1.000 -1.25 1.08

peste 70 lei -.955 .521 .207 -2.22 .31

30-70lei 30-70 lei .089 .480 1.000 -1.08 1.25

peste 70 lei -.866* .352 .046 -1.72 -.01

peste 70 lei 30-70 lei .955 .521 .207 -.31 2.22

peste 70 lei .866* .352 .046 .01 1.72 *The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level. ** What is the order following indicators that you take into account when you buy a natural aromatherapeutic product? *** How much would you be willing to spend for purchase of aromatherapeutic product?

Table 2. Relation between the sums spent for a product and the profile of its selection


ISSN-1791-1133 5

There are significant differences between the subjects willing to spend 30- 70 RON for an aromatherapeutic product, and those willing to spend 70 RON (p=0.046), in terms of the product selection criterion. The subjects who would be willing to give 30- 70 RON to purchase an aromatherapeutic bandage follow the profile 3. Those who would spend more than 70 RON for a bandage follow the profile 4 (Fig. 2).

Figure 2. Differences between subjects’ preferences

The research hypothesis 2 partly verifies. The research hypothesis 3: The sex and the age also influence the type of chosen product. In order to check up this hypothesis, we have used the statistic Anova Univariable method. The variable sex does not influence the type of the chosen cosmetic bandage, because F(1, 133)=0.353, and p= 0.553. The contrast test, with the difference dif= -0.128 and the significance threshold p= 0.553 indicates that there are no significant differences between men’ and women’ preferences in terms of the type of the chosen aromatherapeutic product. It appears that the variable age does not influence the type of the product people would choose, as F(2,133)= 1.182, and p= 0.319. According to Bonferroni test, there are no significant differences between the age categories and the type of preferred bandage (Table 3).



(I) Question no.12***

(J) Question no.12 Mean

Difference (I-J)

Std. Error Sig.


Lower Bound

Upper Bound

dimension2 18-25

dimension3 26-35 .21 .210 1.000 -.36 .77

36-45 .06 .224 1.000 -.54 .66


ISSN-1791-1133 6

peste 46

.59 .319 .407 -.27 1.44

26-35

dimension3

18-25 -.21 .210 1.000 -.77 .36

36-45 -.15 .213 1.000 -.72 .42

peste 46

.38 .312 1.000 -.46 1.22

36-45

dimension3

18-25 -.06 .224 1.000 -.66 .54

26-35 .15 .213 1.000 -.42 .72

peste 46

.53 .321 .618 -.33 1.39

above 46 dimension3

18-25 -.59 .319 .407 -1.44 .27

26-35 -.38 .312 1.000 -1.22 .46

36-45 -.53 .321 .618 -1.39 .33 *The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level. ** What kind of aromatherapeutic product would you prefer? *** To which age group you belong to?

Table 3. Correlation between age category and the type of the chosen product

The interaction of the variables sex and age does not influence the type of the preferred product, as F(2, 133), and p= 0.858 (Fig. 3).

Figure 3. The interactions of the variables sex and age with the type of preferred product

Research hypothesis 3 is not confirmed.

Research hypothesis 4. Age category influences the preferences profile.

In order to check up this hypothesis, we have used the statistic Anova One Way hypothesis. The data from the Anova Table (F(3,129)=3,190, p= 0.0260) allow us to conclude that the spent sum influences the selection profile of aromatherapeutic


ISSN-1791-1133 7

bandages. In order to see the differences between the groups, we have analyzed the results presented in the Table POST HOC TESTS (Table 4).


Question no. 9* Bonferroni

(I) Question no.12**

(J) Question no.12

Mean Difference

(I-J) Std. Error Sig.


Lower Bound Upper Bound

dimension2

18-25

dimension3

26-35 2.435* .853 .030 .15 4.72

36-45 .966 .910 1.000 -1.47 3.40

peste 46

2.522 1.295 .322 -.95 5.99

26-35

dimension3

18-25 -2.435* .853 .030 -4.72 -.15

36-45 -1.469 .866 .554 -3.79 .85

peste 46

.087 1.265 1.000 -3.30 3.48

36-45

dimension3

18-25 -.966 .910 1.000 -3.40 1.47

26-35 1.469 .866 .554 -.85 3.79

peste 46

1.556 1.304 1.000 -1.94 5.05

above 46 dimension3

18-25 -2.522 1.295 .322 -5.99 .95

26-35 -.087 1.265 1.000 -3.48 3.30

36-45 -1.556 1.304 1.000 -5.05 1.94 * What kind of aromatherapy product do you prefer? ** To which age group you belong to?

Table 4. Correlation between subject ages and preference profile

There are significant differences between the subjects aged between 18- 25 years, and those aged between 26- 35 years (p= 0.030) in terms of the preference profile of an aromatherapeutic product. The subjects aged between 18- 25 years opted for the preference profile 7, while those aged between 26-35 years chose the preference profile 4. The research hypothesis 4 was partially confirmed.

77.. Conclusions

The present study had in view a quantitative analysis based on questionnaire. We carried out the analysis by means of a number of 134 questionnaires on a random sample, which provides an error margin of 5% and a reliability interval of 95%. The results obtained in this study attest that there is a main effect of the income variable on the selection criterion of aromatherapy bandages. The research has shown a clear delimitation between the preferences of those with incomes less than 1500 RON, and the other categories of incomes. While for the first category, what matters are the design and somebody else’s experience, for the other income categories what matters are the quality and the price of aromatherapy products. Another interesting


ISSN-1791-1133 8

result of our study was that the subjects willing to give more than 70 RON to purchase an aromatherapy product have chosen the selection profile 4 (price, quality, advertising, packing), while the subjects willing to pay between 10- 50 RON for a bandage have chosen the selection criterion 3 (quality, price, packing, advertising). This result shows off that the persons with big incomes lay stress upon the price. A possible psychological explanation of this choice is that the persons with incomes higher than 3000 RON are in fact choosing quality and mainly the image by means of the price. The middle category of the persons with incomes between 1500-2500 RON are “in the middle of the road” between the extremes (traditional and postmodern) and they are considered the “spine of the society” (according to Schiere theory), because most often they represent the most numerous segment. Those from the modern center are willing to have modern values- but not too much, a modern life style- but not excessive; they want to have fun and feel fine- but not too much. The contradiction between their values is reflected the best by the fact that they never gave up completely to the traditionalist attitude in terms of their preferences. This explains the choice of both quality and price as selection criterion. Practically, we have revealed two types of customers (the strong point of the research). Another aspect of our investigation revealed that the sex and the age do not influence the type of the chosen product. Most of the interviewed people, irrespective of their incomes or age category, opted for anti-stress bandages (53.4%), which prove that all the age categories are affected by stress.

References

[1] Russo, G. Bersano, V. Birolinia, R. Uhlb, “European testing of the efficiency of TRIZ in eco-innovation projects for manufacturing SMEs”, D. Procedia Engineering 9, pp.157–171, 2011.

[2] http://www.textileschool.com/School/EcoTextiles.aspx

[3] A. Cerempei, A, Mureşan, R, Butnaru, R, „Materiale Textile Multifuncţionale”, Editura Performantica, Iaşi, 2010.

[4] A. Mureşan, A.Cerempei, S.Dunca, R.Muresan, R.Butnaru, „Aromatherapeutic characteristics of cotton fabrics treated with rosemary essential oil, Cellulose Chemistry and Technology, vol. 43, no. 9-10, pp. 435-442, 2009.

[5] A. Cerempei, L. Ciobanu, E. Muresan, C. Măluţan, R. Butnaru, “Antimicrobial Treatments of Textile Fabrics Using Natural Bioactive Compound”, Romanian Biotechnological letters, vol. 15, no. 5, pp. 5537-5544, 2010.

[6] A. Cerempei, E. I. Muresan & N.Cimpoesu, “Biomaterials with controlled release of geranium essential oil”, Journal of Essential Oil Research, vol. 26, no. 4, pp. 267–273, 2014.

[7] A.Cerempei, E. I. Muresan, I. Sandu, L. Chirila, Sandu, “Textile materials with controlled release of active compound”, Rev. Chim., vol. 65, no.9, pp.1154-1157, 2014.

[8] A. Cerempei, A. Danko, C. Popescu, R. Muresan, A. Muresan, “Textile materials treated with antimicrobial skin care emulsion optimized by mathematical modelling”, Industria textila, vol. 65, no. 4, pp. 213-219, 2014.

http://www.textileschool.com/School/EcoTextiles.aspx


ISSN-1791-1133 9

Heating conductive textiles with polypyrrole

D. Negru, D. Avram

Dpt. of Technology and Design of Textile Products, “Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University, Iasi, Romania, Tel/Fax: +40 232 230491, E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract

In this paper it is presented the development of heating textiles using two types of fabrics: fabrics from rayon and polyester. The method chosen for coating the fabrics is chemical polymerization of pyrrole in aqueous solution in the presence of the reaction initiators. For the development of the heating grid, on the coated rayon fabric, conductive yarns were attached by sewing. For fabrics of polyester coated with polypyrrole, electrical circuit was achieved by printing conductive ink using a special pattern. The electric properties and the heat generation were invesigated. The heating element obtained can be incorporated into articles of clothing, such as jackets, pants, gloves, footwear, and it can be also used in heating pads and blankets and medical heating devices.

Key Words: Polypyrrole, heating textiles, conductive polymer, conductive ink.

1. Introduction

Conductive polymers are ideal for applications in conductive fabrics because they exhibit electrically properties like the conductive metals and in addition, coating the textile substrate with a conductive polymer retains in a large measure the flexibility and elasticity of the fabric [1-3]. Among the conductive polymers, polypyrolle is considered a suitable material to form coatings in the textile industry, in order to obtain conductive textile materials, because has a good affinity for both natural fibres and for the chemicals, and textile substrates can be easily coated by immersion in a solution containing pyrrole, an oxidant and a dopant. One of the methods used to obtain textile conductive fabrics is chemical polymerization directly onto the textile surface. The polymerization of pyrrole can be achieved in various textile substrates such as fibres, yarns, fabrics [4]. Applications of textile materials coated with conductive polymers are varied and numerous. Textiles polymerized with polypyrrole can easily achieve high conductivity in kΩ / □. It reduces electrostatic with several orders of magnitude and can be used in many antistatic applications; in addition it have other applications such as sensors, heating, electromagnetic shields, medical and sports equipment, microwave filters [5-10]. The polymerization in the aqueous solution can be realized either by in situ polymerization, or by two stages polymerization. In case of in situ polymerization the fabric and all other reagents are added at the same time. Chemical polymerization takes place in the mass of the solution, and the resulting polymer is deposited spontaneously on the surface of the fibers immersed in the polymerization solution or



ISSN-1791-1133 10

precipitate as insoluble solids. To obtain a better deposition, is desirable that the time of polymerization on the surface of the fibers to be as large. This can be achieved by choosing the optimal reaction conditions, such as the ratio and concentration of the reactants, the reaction temperature and appropriate treatment of the textile surface to be coated [11].

Polymerization of pyrrole by oxidative deposition of the pyrrole monomer on a textile surface is a method often used, the factors of influence being according to the literature, the thickness of the polypyrrole layer, depending on the amount of polypyrrole in the solution, the oxidant/dopant ratio, the structure of the textile materials used [3,4,12]. The coating of a thin film of polypyrrole on a fabric for heating has the advantage that it is simple and efficient method and at the same time requiring a small amount of time; in process of obtaining fabric heating, polypyrolle was chosen for its electrical and thermal properties, while fabric offers elasticity and flexibility to conductive textile material obtained.

2. Materials and methods

2.1. Materials

Rayon and polyester fabrics (plain structure) were used as textile substrates with an approximately size of 60 mm x 60 mm. For the rayon fabrics, the conductive yarns are arranged in the fabric so as to form a network in order to reduce electrical resistance by carrying out an equivalent electrical resistance of resistors in parallel. [13]. For the polyester fabrics, the electric circuit in order to form the heating element was printed with conductive ink.

Conductive yarns used are produced by ELEKTRISOLA Feindraht AG, the yarn with rubber core and coated with copper wires (type K306B) and wires with rubber core and coated with copper wires coated with silver (type K105).

Pyrrole was purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, having a purity of 98% and a density of 0.967 g / cm3.

The conductive ink used for printing on polyester fabrics is Electrodag PF-410 and contains very fine silver particles in a thermoplastic resin.

Using conductive ink has the following advantages: it can be applied by hand, and in industrial processes using printing equipment, with a layer thickness in a range from 20-40 mm, have good adhesion, the surface resistance of less than 0.025 kΩ / □ to 25 μm thick. In addition, the resistivity is very low, which implies good conductivity, high adhesion to polyester films, good flexibility, abrasion resistance and friction, high glass transition temperature.

2.2. Methods

Polymerization of polypyrolle

Before polymerization is important to remove dirt or dust particles that may exist on textile surfaces. If this dirt is not removed, there is a risk of unwanted contaminants that


ISSN-1791-1133 11

can cause the formation of inhomogeneous coating and lead to film delamination or destruction of the polymer film. This washing was performed with a solution containing distilled water and NaOH, 30 minutes at room temperature. After washing, the samples were thoroughly rinsed with distilled water.

The optimum concentration of pyrrole was set at 0.04 M in aqueous solution [71]. The solution containing initiators comprises FeCl3 and benzene sulfonic acid (BSA). FeCl3 is a salt that acts as an oxidant in the initiation of the polymerization reaction, and the dopant; BSA provides the necessary anions having a function of stabilizing reaction. Both the monomer solution and the initiator solution are prepared in the same volume, and then placed in a refrigerator in order to achieve a temperature of 4° C. The dried samples were introduced into the pyrrole solution containing water and for one hour at room temperature in order to obtain good penetration of the monomer deep into the textile substrate; the initiator is then added to the reaction solution; the polymerisation reaction begins immediately, as evidenced by the color change of the solution from orange to gray-green.

The polymerization is complete when the solution becomes a dark green color, this taking place after a reaction time of at least one hour at 4° C. In the experiments fabric samples were left in solution polymerization for 1.5-3 hours and then removed from the solution and rinsed with distilled water until the water was clear, to remove excess polypyrrole, and then dried at room temperature for 24 hours.

For the rayon fabrics, conductive yarns were inserted in the warp and weft after the fabrics were coated with polypyrrole. Initially, the yarns were attached by sewing using a sewing machine. Because conductive yarns are relatively thick, through this method an uneven surface was obtained. For this reason it was abandoned in favor of inserting conductive yarns as warp and weft manually.

The distances between two conductive weft yarns are 10 mm, respectively 50 mm between two conductive warp yarns.

In case of the polyester fabric, due to high yarn fineness inserting conductive yarns was impossible, the alternative being printing a conductive using a conductive ink after polymerization. Figure 1 shows a coated polyester fabric with printed conductive polypyrrole circuit.


ISSN-1791-1133 12

Figure 1. Printed circuit onto polyester fabric coated with polypyrrole

The deposition of conductive ink to achieve a conductive circuit was performed using print-screening technique. Before printing, the dimensions of the surface to be printed were set. After printing conductive ink, the fabric samples were dried in an oven for 24 hours at a temperature of 80 ° C.

2.3. Results

Electrical properties of rayon fabric coated with polypyrrole

A multimeter (TTI 1705) was used to generate an AC current/voltage over the fabrics. Samples of rayon fabric coated with polypyrrole were tested electrically by measuring the values of electrical resistance and electrical current when several values of voltages were applied; the values of the temperature were also recorded using the IR camera Termovision AGEMA® System 900. The camera is provided with software with which it can be observed and recorded the areas of the samples that are heated; the device automatically records the maximum temperature and the temperature at different points of the samples. The values for these parameters are shown in Table 1.

Sample Electrical

resistance (kΩ)

I (mA) V (V) Maximum

temperature (°C)

Rayon (Cu) 2.13 12 25.5 37

Rayon (Cu) 33.3 1 30 28.7

Rayon (Cu) 8.5 4 34 27

Rayon (Cu) 17.5 2 35 29.4

Rayon (Cu) 1.76 17 40 44.9

Rayon (Ag) 5.2 5 25 31.5

Rayon (Ag) 8.5 4 30 38

Rayon (Ag) 3.18 11 35 27

Table 1. Electrical resistance and maximum temperature obtained for rayon fabric samples coated with polypyrrole


ISSN-1791-1133 13

For sample of rayon fabric with copper yarns coated with polypyrrole, the maximum temperature reached 44.9° C and a current of 17 mA at a voltage of 40 V; For the rayon fabric coated with polypyrrole with silver plated copper yarns in the structure, the maximum temperature reached 38° C at a current of 4 mA and a voltage of 30 V. The generation of heat was recorded with a thermographic camera provided with software by means of which images of the samples, emphasizing areas that are heated and inert areas are recorded. Dissipation temperature was measured at standard conditions of temperature and relative humidity of the environment (22 ± 2 ° C 65 ± 2%).

Figure 2. The generation of heat for Rayon fabric with silver-coated copper yarns coated with polypyrrole (a) and the Rayon fabric with copper yarns coated with polypyrrole (b)

Figure 2 presents the images with the IR camera for rayon fabric samples coated with polypyrrole with silver yarns, respectively copper yarns. The areas which are lighter present a higher temperature. For some samples have been observed the occurrence of areas of high temperatures compared to the average temperature of the sample, the so-called "hot spots," particularly in the center, which may be due to the irregular thickness of the conductive layer and the fact that the conductive yarns are forming connections by simple contact.

Electrical properties of polyester fabric coated with polypyrrole

For samples of fabric which has been printed circuit, the values of electrical resistance and temperature are presented in Table 2. The minimum value of electrical resistance is 0.23 kΩ at a voltage of 10 V, and the temperature of the sample is by 44° C. Current intensity value recorded in these conditions is 44 mA. The maximum temperature of the polyester samples coated with the polypyrrole obtained is 51.6° C, under an applied voltage of 30 V.


ISSN-1791-1133 14

Sample of

polyester fabric

Electrical

resistance (kΩ) I (mA) V (V)

Maximum

temperature

(ºC)

PES 1 2 5 10 45.80

PES 2 0.23 44 10 44

PES 3 0.48 21 10 34.30

PES 4 1.30 15 20 37.40

PES 5 2 15 30 51.60

Table 2: Maximum temperatures obtained for different variants of polyester fabrics

This value indicates that the sample no. 5 is most advantageous in terms of the heat. However, 30 V applied voltage is high enough, from this point of view the most practical being the use of sample 1. Polypyrrole coated samples were obtained under the same conditions, this variation of temperature and resistance values is therefore a factor that cannot be easily controlled.

Figure 3. IR thermographic camera analysis for the polypyrrole coated polyester fabric

Heat generation was evaluated as in the case of rayon fabric samples coated with polypyrrole by using the IR camera (Figure 3). By analyzing the images obtained, it can be concluded that the warming is more pronounced in areas where the fabric is printed with conductive ink conductive pattern. However, the effect of heat dissipation is visible, which leads to the conclusion that the analyzed samples may be used as a heating fabric.

3. Conclusion

Conductive polymer polypyrrole was used for coating different woven materials in order to obtain a homogenous heating surface. The heat generation was recorded using a thermographic camera; for the sample with copper yarns, the maximum temperature achieved is 44.9 °C. The current was 17 mA and the voltage 40 V and for the sample


ISSN-1791-1133 15

with copper yarns coated with silver, the temperature achieved is 38°C, the current was 4 mA and the voltage 30 V. Polypyrrole rayon fabrics coated with polypyrrole need 30 V to be heated to a temperature of 28.7° C, while polyester fabrics at the same voltage of 30 V, reached the maximum temperature of 51.6° C. Therefore, the heat generation can be successfully used for the polyester coating of polypyrrole variants.In conclusion, the investigation of thermal properties in normal environmental condition of temperature and relative humidity shows that these materials are conductive fabrics able to heat.

Acknowledgements

The authors would like to thank to research staff from Department of Textiles, Ghent University, Belgium, were the experimental part of this paper was carried out.

References

[1] L. Dall Aqua, C.Tonin, R. Peila, F. Ferrero, M. Catellani, „Performances and properties of intrinsic conductive cellulose-polypyrolle textiles”, Synthetic Metals, Vol. 146, Issue 2, pp. 213-221, 2004.

[2] H.H. Kuhn, A.D. Child, W.C. Kimbrell, „Toward real applications of conductive polymers”, Synthetic Metals, Vol. 71, Issues 1-3, 1 April 1995, pp. 2139-2142, Proceedings of the International Conference on Science and Technology of Synthetic Metals (ICSM '94).

[3] T.Lin, L. Wang, X. Wang, A. Kaynak, „Polymerising pyrrole on polyester textile and controlling the conductivity trough coating thickness”, Thin Solid Films, Vol. 479, Issues 1-2, pp. 77-82, 23 May 2005.

[4] S.S. Najar, A. Kaynak, R.C. Foitzik, „Conducting nylon, cotton and wool yarns by continuous vapor polymerization of pyrrole”, Synthetic Metals, Vol. 157, Issue 1, pp. 1-4,15 January 2007.

[5] D. Kincal, A. Kumar, A.D. Child, J.R. Reynolds, „Conductivity switching in polypyrrole-coated textile fabrics as gas sensors”, Synthetic Metals, Vol. 92, Issue 1, pp. 53-56, 15 January 1998.

[6] M.S. Kim, H. K. Kim, S.W. Byun, S.H. Jeong, Y.K. Hong, J.S. Joo, K.T. Song, J.K. Kim, C.J. Lee, J.Y. Lee, „PET fabric/polypyrrole composite with high electrical conductivity for EMI shielding”, Synthetic Metals, Vol. 126, Issues 2-3, pp. 233-239,14 February 2002.

[7] E. Gasana, P. Westbroek, J. Hakuzimana, K. De Clerck, G. Priniotakis, P. Kiekens, D. Tseles, „Electroconductive textile structures trough electroless deposition of polypyrolle and copper at polyaramide surfaces”, Surface & Coatings Technology, pp. 3547-3551, 2006.

[8] E. Hakansson, A. Kaynak, T. Lin, S. Nahavandi, T. Jones, E. Hu, ” Characterization of conducting polymer coated synthetic fabrics for heat generation”, Synthetic Metals, Vol. 144, pp. 21–28, 2004.

[9] N.V. Bhat, D.T. Seshadri, M.M. Nate, A.V. Gore, „Development of conductive cotton fabrics for heating devices”, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, Vol. 102, Issue 5, pp. 4690–4695, 5 December 2006.

[10] S. Shang, X. Yang, X. Tao, S.S. Lam, „Vapor-phase polymerisation of pyrrole on flexible substrate at low temperature and its applications in heat generation”, Polymer International, Vol. 59, Issue 2, pp. 204–211, February 2010.

[11] D. Beneventi, S. Alila, S. Boufi, D. Chaussy, P. Nortier, „Polymerization of pyrrole on cellulose fibres using a FeCl3 impregnation pyrrole polymerization sequence”, Cellulose, Vol.13(6), pp.725-734, 2006.

[12] H. Li, G. Shi , W. Ye, C. Li, Y. Liang, „Polypyrrole-carbon fiber composite film prepared by chemical oxidative polymerization of pyrrole”, Journal of Applied Polymer Science, Vol. 64, Issue 11, pp. 2149–2154, 13 June 1997.

[13] J. Banaszczyk, G. De Mey, A. Schwarz, L. Van Langenhove, „Current Distribution Modelling in Electroconductive Fabrics”, FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, Vol. 17, No. 2 (73), pp. 28-33, 2009.


ISSN-1791-1133 16

Software for designing fibre blends - useful tool for yarn engineering

C. Piroi

Faculty of Textiles - Leather and Industrial Management

Technical University Gheorghe Asachi, Iasi, Romania Tel: +40 232 701143, E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract

This paper presents the results of a study concerning the utility of use dedicated software for optimizing the process of fibre selection and designing the fibre blends in cotton spinning mills. The results show that it is possible to obtain better results in processing yarns with required quality characteristics, using the available range of raw material, by optimization the design of fibre blends.

1. Introduction

Nowadays, the worldwide industry faces with significant changes, mainly characterized by a shift from mass production towards customized and intelligent production. This fundamental reform is influencing the textile industry as well. The textile mills needs to adapt themselves to the new situation as a response to the fast changing market mechanisms. Higher productivity, increased flexibility, constant quality products and quick response to the customers’ requirements are requisite for companies in order to succeed or even to survive in an extremely challenging environment.

Production of good quality yarns largely depends on the right correlation between the raw material characteristics and the manufacturing technology. Beside of its significant influence on the yarn characteristics, the raw material determines also the yarn price, representing up to 80% of it. The required level of quality for the spun yarns can be achieved by using homogeneous blends of fibres, by a suitable selection of the spinning system and of the spinning equipment.

The blending is the technique to combine fibres with different characteristic, which emphasizes the good qualities and minimizes the poor qualities of each fibre batch. That’s why, the fibres selection and rational design of fibre blends, aiming to obtain yarns with desired quality characteristic is one of the most important stages in the complex process of yarn engineering, which refers to the manufacturing yarns with certain quality requirements, according to a specific end use application.

This paper presents the results of a study concerning the utility of use dedicated software for optimizing the process of fibre selection and designing the fibre blends in cotton spinning mills.


ISSN-1791-1133 17

2. General consideration about fibre blends design

The raw material used in cotton type spinning mills consists of cotton fibres and man-made fibres with similar characteristics as the cotton, in terms of fibres finesse and length. If for the man-made fibres, the physic-mechanical characteristics varies in quite restricted limits depending on their manufacturing conditions, and therefore are controllable, in the case of cotton, which is a natural fibre, these characteristics widely vary, both depending on the genetic factors and environmental conditions (moisture, temperature), but also on the conditions of harvesting, storage and preliminary processing. In order to use efficiently the whole cotton crop, this it is sorted depending on the fibre length, finesse, resistance, colour, trash content, maturity degree, etc.

Usually, for manufacturing pure cotton yarns are used fibre blends made up of several batches of fibre, having close values of the main characteristics such as length, finesse, strength, elongation. The main task of yarn’s designer is to choose the appropriate batches of fibres and setting the right values for blend ratios, in order to obtain the best correlation between the average characteristics of fibres and the yarn characteristics.

Among the spun yarn properties, the tensile properties are the most important parameters in assessment of yarn quality, especially the tensile strength, which significantly influences the efficiency of post spinning operations, such as warping, weaving and knitting. Accordingly, predicting the yarn strength is very important from a technological point of view and many mathematical models have been used to predict the complex relationships between fibre parameters and the yarns characteristics [1].

Finding the optimal variant of fibre blend involves considerable amount of time, cost and possible inaccuracies. Use of modern working instruments, the databases and dedicated software for designing fibre blends, contributes significantly to reduce these disadvantages and allows obtaining the optimal blend recipe faster and more effective.

3. Designing the fibre blends using PFIRB software

The software PFIRB has been drawn up to help designing the fibre blends, in the following variants: 100% cotton; 100% man-made fibres; Cotton/ man-made fibres; Blends of man-made fibres.

The software allows creating the fibre blend and its validation by predicting the yarn strength and comparing with the imposed value. Depending on the type of blend, the yarn strength is computed using one of the following formula: Solovev (for 100% cotton blends), Vanciov (for binary blends), or Usenko (for 100% blends of man-made fibres). The blend is accepted if, between the predicted value of yarn strength and the imposed one, there is a maximum difference of ±5% [2].

The software has a modular structure, suggestive illustrated in the main window (Figure 1), being intuitive and easy to use.


ISSN-1791-1133 18

Figure 1: The main window of PFIRB software

All tools and information required to design the fibre blend for a yarn with specific characteristics are provided by two databases: Recipes catalogue is a collection of standard blend recipes, recommended for

manufacturing cotton type yarns. Each recipe is defined by the following information: yarn destination, type of blend, spinning technology, count range, recipe composition, number of fibre categories.

Raw materials contain information regarding the properties of components that can enter in the blends composition. In this database, the components (batches of fibres with known characteristics) are grouped in categories according to the fibre type and their specifications: cotton (Superior, Medium I, Medium II, Medium III, Medium IV, Inferior) and man-made fibres (Polyester, Viscose, Acrylics etc). The available components in the database can be sorted ascending or descending using one of the fibre characteristics: finesse, length, strength, elongation; the lists can be shown or printed out.

Designing a new fibre blend is performed by using the others two modules: Recipe elaboration allows the user to create a new blend recipe, on the basis of

the imposed design elements (the yarn count and destination, type of blend, manufacturing technology), using the recipes catalogue and the available components in Raw material database. The blend recipe is displayed as a table containing the components' name, the blend ratios and the values of fibres characteristics. These elements will serve afterwards at verifying the correlation between the raw material characteristics and yarn characteristics.

Blend verification offers the possibility to check the blend recipe, both from point of view of yarn characteristics and price. This module allows the user to perform the recipe verification, by computing the value of yarn strength and comparing it with the imposed value. Evaluation the price of blend and estimating the other yarn characteristics are also possible.


ISSN-1791-1133 19

4. Assessing the design of fibre blends

It was noticed that in Romanian cotton spinning mills, designing the fibre blend is an optional stage. Creating the fibre blends intended for obtain 100% cotton yarns is mainly based on the experience gained along the years by experts and on the fact that the spinning mill processes a relatively narrow range of yarns. In addition, the cotton batches come usually from the same source, have similar physical-mechanical characteristics and the difference in prices are not very important. In these conditions, the knowledge and the experience of the experts are enough to create fibre blends satisfying both from quality and economically point of view.

The above presented situation may change if appear some disturbing factors, such as: 1. large variation of cotton fibre characteristics from year to year, due to changes of

climate conditions during the crop growth and harvesting; 2. difficulties in supplying with raw material having characteristics able to assure the

technological process’s stability; 3. the need to diversify and enlarge the range of processed yarns as response to the

customers’ demands which often request small quantities of yarn in very short time etc.

In order to assess the usefulness of PFIRB software, the fibre blends used in a Romanian cotton spinning mill have been verified. In this respect, the following steps were done:

From the current production, have been selected six blend recipes designed for 100% cotton yarns with Nm 40, 50 and 58, intended to be used for knitting;

The information from the analysis reports of fibre batches was used to add in the Raw Material database of PFIRB software all the components necessary to create the blend recipes. A list of these components is presented in Figure 2.

Figure 2: The list of components used in bends recipes


ISSN-1791-1133 20

For each yarn assortment was created the corresponding blend recipe using the Recipe Elaboration module, and it was saved as a file *dat. (ex: R244B40.dat → recipe 244 for the yarn Nm 40). Few recipes are shown in Figure 3.

Each recipe was checked for correlation between the average characteristics of fibres and the yarn characteristics using the Blend Verification module. With this aim, the value of yarn strength - Sy calc, computed with Solovev equation, was compared with the imposed value - Sy imp (Figure 4). It was considered that the fibre blend is correctly designed if the difference between those two values do not exceed ±5%.

Figure 3: The list of blend recipes created

Figure 4: The result of blend verification


ISSN-1791-1133 21

Regarding the calculation of yarn strength, the following clarifications are useful: The strength of cotton yarns was computed with Solovev formula [3]:

KZTt

Tt65,2N0375,01SS

y

f0fy

where: Sy = the yarn strength in cN/tex, Sf = the fibre strength in cN/tex, Tty = the linear density of yarn in tex, Ttf - the linear density of fibre in tex, N0 - the index of

technological process (4.5 - 5 for the carded cotton system), = the correction factor for the quality of equipment (0.95 - 1.1), K = the correction factor for twist, Z = the correction factor for fibre length.

The value of twist coefficient m, was adopted conform with the indications from literature, according to the yarn count, average fibre length and yarn destination [4];

It was assumed that the index of technological process has minimum value (N0=4.5)

and the equipment used for yarn processing is in perfect conditions ( =1).

5. Results and discussions

Tables 1 and 2 show the results of verification for the selected blends. The following values are presented for each fibre blend:

The yarn count - NmF,

The twist coefficient - m,

The calculated yarn strength - Sy calc,

The imposed yarn strength corresponding to first quality - Sy imp

The last row of the table displays the observations resulted from comparison between Sy calc and Sy imp:

If impycalcyimpy S05,1SS95,0 - the blend assure obtaining yarns of first quality

(1st quality).

If impycalcy S05,1S - the blend could be used for yarns of superior quality

(Superior quality).


ISSN-1791-1133 22

Recipe code R 206 R 244 R 260

NmF [g/m] 40 50 58 40 50 58 40 50 58

m 104 108 115 105 105 108 104 108 115

Sy calc [cN/tex]

9,43 9,35 9,65 9,84 9,33 9,24 9,77 9,66 9,79

Sy imp [cN/tex]

9,4 9,5 9,5 9,4 9,5 9,5 9,4 9,5 9,5

Observation 1st

quality 1st

quality 1st

quality 1st

quality 1st

quality 1st

quality 1st

quality 1st

quality 1st

quality

Table 1

Recipe code R 272 R 276 R 290

NmF [g/m] 40 50 58 40 50 58 40 50 58

m 96 99 102 96 99 102 96 99 102

Sy calc [cN/tex]

10,40 10,16 10,07 10,51 10,27 10,19 11,86 11,59 11,49

Sy imp [cN/tex]

9,4 9,5 9,5 9,4 9,5 9,5 9,4 9,5 9,5

Observation Superior

quality

Superior quality

Superior quality

Superior quality

Superior quality

Superior quality

Superior quality

Superior quality

Superior quality

Table 2

As a result of the performed analysis, one can appreciate that all six blends assure good conditions for producing the proposed yarn types at high quality level.

The blends presented in table 1 are optimal designed regarding the correlation between the fibres properties and yarn characteristics. Instead, the blend variants presented in table 2 have superior characteristics comparing to the yarns they have been designed for. These blends might be used to obtaining better quality yarns that could be sold at a higher price, increasing in this way the economical efficiency of the spinning mill or enlarging the range of the processed yarns.

It has to be noticed that there is a difference of 3% and 30% between the applied twist coefficient and the recommended one, meaning that in practice was used greater twist than the one requested by the yarn’s end use and characteristics. This can be a consequence of customer's request for the yarns with high twist degree or high strength. From spinner’s point of view, the use of higher twist means a diminishing of delivery speed and consequently a decreasing of productivity, with negative implication on the economical aspects.


ISSN-1791-1133 23

6. Conclusion

The fibre selection and rational design of fibre blends aiming to obtain yarns with desired quality characteristic is the right approach for superior use of whole base of raw material in condition of increased economic efficiency.

The results of accomplished analysis show that in this spinning mill there is the possibility to optimize the fibre blends in order to acquire better correlation between the fibres parameters and yarns characteristics.

PFIRB software provides to the spinning mills the possibility of easy elaboration and verification of a large number of blend recipes, giving the opportunity to take the right decision regarding the best variant in very short time.

References

[1] N.A.Kotb,” Predicting yarn quality performance based on fibers types and yarn structure”, Life Science Journal,2012;9(3), pp.1009-1015.

[2] V.Copilu, N.Vladut, N.Florescu, Filatura de bumbac ( Cotton spinning mill), vol.I, Ed. Tehnica, Bucuresti, 1977

[3] A. Ghosh, S. Ishtiaque, S. Rengasamy, P. Mal, A.Patnaik, “Predictive models for strength of spun yarns:an overview”, AUTEX Research journal, vol. 5, no. 1, pp. 20-29, March 2005.

[4] V.Rusanovschi, Proiectarea filaturilor de bumbac (Design of cotton spinning mills), Ed Tehnica, Bucuresti, 1978.


ISSN-1791-1133 24

Design of Collars in Big Sizes

Z. Kazlacheva

Faculty of Technics and Technologies of Yambol, Trakia University of Stara Zagora, Yambol, Bulgaria

Mobile: +359 889339914, E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract

The geometrical forms and sizes of collar are important elements in design of ladies’ jackets and coats. Sometimes they have leading role in compositions of the models. Two different geometrical models of pattern making of collars in big sizes are developed and presented in previous publications. The first constructional model is for pattern making of collars in big sizes around V form necklines. The second one is a geometrical model of design of pattern making of big sized collars around neck openings in varied geometrical forms with slope which is opposite to the traditional V form – oval, square, pentagon, trapezium, rhomboid, etc. The paper presents an investigation with main aim development of a new model which unites the both models of pattern makings of big sized collars around necklines in different shapes. The study is made with the help of multiple linear regression for defining of a dependence for determination of the collar slope for all types of neck openings. In result the united pattern making model give possibilities for facilitation of creation of new varied models of the collars in clothing – new designs or transformations of models in other ones.

1. Introduction

A geometrical model of pattern making of collars in big sizes (sizes bigger than shoulders) around necklines in V form is presented in [1]. A constructional model of pattern making of big sized collars around neck openings in varied geometrical forms with slope, which is opposite to the traditional V form – oval, square, pentagon, trapezium, rhomboid, etc. is shown in [2]. The paper presents an investigation with main aim development of a new model which unites the both models of pattern makings of big sized collars around necklines in different shapes.

2. Pattern Making of Collars in Big Sizes around Necklines in V Form [1]

Figure 1.1 presents a lady’s jacket with a big sized collar around a V form neckline. Figure 1.2 presents the geometrical model of constructing of the collars around necklines in V form and for example the pattern making of the collar, shown in figure 1.1. In Figure 1.2 point 1 is the collar start point and it is situated on the middle front line. 2 is the point of intersection of the front neckline and shoulder after the neckline sinking. The soft curve 1÷2 forms the front V form neckline. Right from point 2 an arc is drawn with center point 1 and radius 1÷2. On the arc: 2÷3 = 3÷4 = 2,0-2,5 cm. Distances 2÷3 and 3÷4 define the collar stand height by shoulders. Points 1 and 3 are connected with a straight line, which is extended over point 3. An arc is drawn to the right of line 1÷3 with center point 4 and radius, equal to the back neckline length after


ISSN-1791-1133 25

the neckline sinking. On the arc: Distance 5÷6 is defined by its center angle β by formula (1):

β = 22,6 + 0,67.α + 4,0.Hp (1) β, ° is the central angle of the collar slope arc (the arc 5÷6), α, ° – the roll line angle (the angle between line 1÷5 and a vertical line), Hp, cm – the additional height for pad by shoulders (Hp = Hp,f + Hp,b, where Hp,f is additional height for pad by the front shoulder and Hp,b is additional height for the pad by the back shoulder). Distance 6÷7 = 2÷3 + 0,5 determines the collar stand height by the back middle. The soft curved line 1÷4 which defines the collar connecting line to the front neckline is in the same geometrical form like the line of the front neckline 1÷2, and the collar connecting line 1÷4 is an image of the front neckline around point 1. Points 4 and 7 are connected with a curved line and the curve 4÷7 defines the collar connected line to the back neckline. A line, which is perpendicular to 4÷7 is drawn. On the new line: 7÷8 = 6÷7. Distance 7÷8 defines the collar stand height by the back middle. Distance 8÷9 determines the collar width by the back middle. The collar edge shape is drawn left from the last shoulder point between points 1 and 9 and depends from the model and fashion trends.

3. Pattern Making of Collars in Big Sizes around Necklines in Varied Forms [2]

Figure 2.1 presents a lady’s jacket with a big sized collar around a rhombus neckline. Figure 2.2 presents the geometrical model of constructing of the collars around necklines in varied forms and for example the pattern making of the collar around the rhombus neckline, shown in figure 2.1. In Figure 1.1 point 1 is situated on the horizontal line, which is located on 9-10 cm over the bust dart apex. This line is the border of the bust area. 2 is the point of interception of the front neckline and shoulder after the neckline sinking. For design of collars around oval, rhombus, trapezium, or pentagon neckline point 1 is located to the left than point 2. The segment 1÷2 is in vertical position if the neckline is designed in square, oval or pentagon form. The segment 1÷2 is the tangent line to the neckline in the shoulder point. The front neckline is formed (through point 2) with a curved line, which forms oval form, or combination from curved and straight lines, which create square, rhombus, trapezium, or pentagon form. An arc is drawn with center point 1 and radius 1÷2. On the arc: 2÷3 = 3÷4 = 1,5-2,0 cm. The distances 2÷3 and 3÷4 define the collar stand height by shoulders. Points 1 and 3 are connected with a straight line, which is extended over point 3. An arc is drawn to the right of line 1÷3 with center point 4 and radius, which is equal to the back neckline length after the neckline sinking. On the arc: Distance 5÷6 is defined by its center angle β by formula (2):

β = 29 – 0,7.α + 4,0.Hp (2) β, ° is the central angle of the collar slope arc (the arc 5÷6), α, ° – the roll line angle (the angle between line 1÷5 and a vertical line), Hp, cm – the additional height for pad by shoulders (Hp = Hp,f + Hp,b, where Hp,f is additional height for pad by the front shoulder and Hp,b is additional height for the pad by the back shoulder). Distance 6÷7 = 2÷3 + 1,0 determines the collar stand height by the back middle. The line (through point 4), which defines the collar connecting line to the front neckline, is in the same geometrical form like the line of the front neckline, and the collar connecting line (through point 4) is an image of the front neckline around point 1. Points 4 and 7


ISSN-1791-1133 26

are connected with a curved line and the curve 4÷7 defines the collar connected line to the back neckline. A line, which is perpendicular to 4÷7 is drawn. On the new line: 7÷8 = 6÷7. Distance 7÷8 defines the collar stand height by the back middle. Distance 8÷9 determines the collar width by the back middle. The collar edge shape is drawn from the last shoulder point through point 9 left and depends from the model and fashion trends.

Figure 1.1: A lady’s jacket with a big sized collar around a V form neckline.

Figure 1.2: Pattern making of a big sized collar around a V form neckline.


ISSN-1791-1133 27

Figure 2.1: A lady’s jacket with a big

sized collar around a rhombus neckline. Figure 2.2: Pattern making of a big sized collar around a rhombus neckline. A constructional geometrical model

for pattern making of collars in big sizes around necklines in varied forms.

4. Experimental

The comparison of the models [1] and [2] that they are very similar in the geometrical way of the pattern making and the differences reflect the form of the necklines and especially the direction of the neck openings by the shoulders. Therefore unification of the systems [1] and [2] is searched for in the dependence for defining of the collars


ISSN-1791-1133 28

slopes, or the formulas (1) and (2) have been replaced with only one new dependence. Like the dependences (1) and (2) the new formula is a result of a linear multiple regression with depended variable angle β and independent variables angle α and additional height for pad by shoulders Hp For the investigation pattern makings of collars by the both models [1] and [2] are made for different combination of values for α and Hp. The regression model is presented by formula (3):

β = b0 + b1.α + b2.Hp (3) According to the different direction of the necklines in the models [1] and [2], the value of the angle α is used with a minus number. The statistical analysis is made with the help of the software STATSTICA 7.0 [3].

5. Results

The linear regression results are b0 = 28,3982, b1 = 0,6442, b2 = 3,2284. The accuracy of the regression model is provided by the values of p < 0,0000, R-square = 0,98812111, and Std. Error of estimate = 1,947197275. On the base of the statistical analysis formula (3) assumes form (4).

β = 28,4 + 0,64.α + 3,2.Hp (4) The linear interaction between dependent and independent variables in formula (4) is presented in Figure 3.

β = 28,3982+0,6442*α+3,2284*Hp

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

β, °

α, °

Hp, cm

Figure 3: Linear interaction between dependent and independent variables.


ISSN-1791-1133 29

6. Conclusion

Dependence (4) replaces formulas (1) and (3) in pattern makings models [1] and [2] for design of big sized collars, and it is made unifications of [1] and [2]. In result the united pattern making model give possibilities for facilitation of creation of new varied models of the collars in clothing – new designs or transformations of models in other ones.

References

[1] Z. Kazlacheva, “Facilitating Methodologies for the Design of Collars with Lapels and Shawl Collars with Dimensions, Equal or Larger Shoulders with Reading the Extra Shoulders Height”, Textil i Obleklo, pp. 2-6, May 2008.

[2] Z. Kazlacheva. “Design of Collars in Big Sizes around Necklines in Varied Forms”, ARTTE Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education, vol. 2, no. 1, pp. 76-84, 2014.

[3] T. Hill, P. Lewicki. Electronic Statistics Book, 2007, http://statsoft.com/textbook/stathome.html.


ISSN-1791-1133 30

The Golden and Fibonacci Geometry in Fashion and Textile Design

Z. Kazlacheva1, J. Ilieva2

1 Faculty of Technics and Technologies of Yambol, Trakia University of Stara Zagora, Yambol, Bulgaria, Mobile: +359 889339914, E-mail: [email protected]

2 Faculty of Technics and Technologies of Yambol, Trakia University of Stara Zagora, Yambol, Bulgaria, Mobile: +359 897512012, E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract

The proportions of the Golden ratio and Fibonacci sequence associate harmony and beauty and by this reason they are used in design. The paper presents the use of geometrical forms and tilings, created on the base the Golden ratio and Fibonacci numbers, in fashion and textile design. The forms and tilings are the Golden and Fibonacci spirals, the Golden and Fibonacci series tiling with squares, the Golden tiling with triangles, Fibonacci tiling with triangles – Fibonacci Rose, etc. For creation of successful aesthetic fashion and textile design projects these kinds of forms can be used in different combinations and color decisions.

1. Introduction

As symbols of beauty and harmony the proportions in the Golden ratio and Fibonacci are used in creation of different type of forms and tiling, which are used in design. The paper presents the use of geometrical forms and tilings, created on the base the Golden ratio and Fibonacci series, in fashion and textile design. The forms and tilings are the Golden rectangle and triangle, the Golden and Fibonacci spirals, the Golden and Fibonacci series tiling with squares, the Golden tiling with triangles, Fibonacci tiling with triangles – Fibonacci Rose, etc.

2. The Golden and Fibonacci Geometry in Fashion and Textile Design

Figure 1 presents a model of a dress [1] with the spiral form squares tiling on the base of the Golden ratio [2, 3]. A Golden rectangle (a rectangle with proportion of the sides equal to the Golden ratio) is drawn. A square with sides, equal to the larger side of the Golden rectangle, is set on the larger side of the Golden rectangle. Both the Golden rectangle and the square form a bigger Golden rectangle. A square with sides, equal to the larger side of the bigger Golden rectangle, is put to the larger side of the bigger Golden rectangle. The same drawings repeat in the spiral direction and the squares in proportions of Golden ration form a squares tiling in spiral form. This tiling is the frame for creation of the Golden spiral [3]. Figure 2 shows a model of a dress [1] with the use of the side by side squares tiling on the base of the Golden Ratio, which is similar to Fibonacci series squares tiling, created side by side in two perpendicular linear directions, which is presented in [4]. A


ISSN-1791-1133 31

Golden rectangle is drawn. A square with sides, equal to the larger side of the Golden rectangle, is set on the larger side of the Golden rectangle. Both the Golden rectangle and the square form a bigger Golden rectangle. A square with sides, equal to the larger side of the bigger Golden rectangle, is put to the larger side of the bigger Golden rectangle. The same drawings repeat in two perpendicular linear directions and form other variant of squares tiling in side by side or a diagonal form. Figure 3 presents a dress [5] with the side by side squares tiling on the base Fibonacci series [3]. The way of the tiling constructing is the same like the creation of the tiling on the base the Golden section, which is used in the dress, shown in Figure 2. Figure 4 shows a dress with the square tiling in spiral form on the base Fibonacci sequence [4]. The model of the tiling is the same like the construction of the Golden tiling with squares in spiral form, which is used in the dress in Figure 1. The both types of spiral tiling with squares are the bases for creation of the both spirals – the Golden and Fibonacci spirals. The model of the dress in Figure 4 is with design with Fibonacci spiral. In the fashion design the Golden and Fibonacci spirals can be used with or without the frames of the square tilings. Figure 5 presents a design of a dress with the use of the tiling with Golden triangles (isosceles triangles with sides in proportions of the Golden ratio) [6]. The model of tiling is similar like the square tilings in spiral form from Figures 1 and 4, and the spiral tiling with Golden triangles can be a base for a spiral too. Figure 6 shows a model of a dress [7] with design using the tiling with equilateral triangles on the base proportions of the Fibonacci series. This tiling version is named Fibonacci rose [4]. The Fibonacci rose forms two spiral forms, which are the base for double spiral. Figures 7 and 8 present textile designs [8] on the base Fibonacci rose [4]. The design in Figure 8 Fibonacci rose is used as a frame of entered circles. Figures 9 and 10 present textile designs with the use of the square pursuit [9] which forms four Golden spirals. This creation is known as the bugs’ problem too: “Four bugs are standing at the four corners of a square. They are hungry (or lonely) and at the same moment they each see the bug at the next corner over and start crawling toward it. What happens? As they crawl towards each other they spiral into the center, always forming an ever smaller square, turning around and around forever. Yet they reach each other! This is not a paradox because the length of this spiral is finite. They trace out the same equiangular spiral. [10]” Figure 11 presents a textile design with the use of the Golden spiral [3] without the frame of the Golden spiral form squares tiling [2, 3]. Figures 12 and 13 show textile designs with the use of the Golden spiral in the frame of the Golden squares tiling in spiral form and isosceles right-angled triangles, which are entered in the flame of the spiral tiling [2, 3].


ISSN-1791-1133 32

Figure 1: Design of a lady’s dress using the

Golden squares tiling in spiral form. Figure 2: Design of a lady’s dress using the

Golden squares tiling in two perpendicular linear directions.


ISSN-1791-1133 33

Figure 3: Design of a lady’s dress using Fibonacci

squares tiling in two perpendicular linear directions.

Figure 4: Design of a lady’s dress using Fibonacci squares tiling in spiral form and Fibonacci spiral.


ISSN-1791-1133 34

Figure 5: Design of a lady’s dress using the Golden triangle tiling in two perpendicular linear

directions.

Figure 6: Design of a lady’s dress using Fibonacci triangle tiling – Fibonacci rose.


ISSN-1791-1133 35

Figures 7 and 8: Textile designs using Fibonacci triangle tiling – Fibonacci rose without and with entered

circles.


ISSN-1791-1133 36

Figures 9 and 10: Textile designs using the square pursuit which forms four Golden spirals.


ISSN-1791-1133 37

Figure 11: A textile design using the Golden spirals without the frame of the Golden spiral square tiling.


ISSN-1791-1133 38

Figures 12 and 13: Textile designs using the Golden spirals with the frame of the Golden spiral square tiling

and entered isosceles right-angled triangles in the frame of the tiling.


ISSN-1791-1133 39

3. Conclusion

For the creation of beautiful and harmonic fashion and textile designs:

The forms and tiling which are made with the help of the Golden ratio and Fibonacci sequence proportions can be used in combinations on the base one or two types of symmetries: mirror (Figures 9, 10 and 11), radial (Figures 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 11, 13), and translation (Figures 9, 10, 11, 12) ones. The used Golden and Fibonacci tilings are created on the base spiral symmetry (Figures 1, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12, 13) and translation (Figures 2, 3) and that reflect in the choice of the type of the symmetry in creation of the fashion and textile designs.

The tilings are used as frames for entered elements and these elements can forms designs with or without the tiling frames.

Successful creative process is possible if suitable color schemes are selected. Presented fashion and textile designs are based on 2, 3, and 4 color combinations, which reflect the fashion trends and connections between lines, forms and colors on the base their associations.

Acknowledgements

The work is supported by the scientific project 3.FTT/ 2014 of Trakia University and the Fund of the National budget for scientific researchs in higher education in Bulgaria.

References

[1] Z. Kazlacheva, “The Golden Squares in Fashion Design”, EMIT Economics Management Information Technology, vol. 4, no. 1, pp. 32-38, June 2015.

[2] “Golden Rectangles”, Harvard Mathematics Department Home page, 2000-2014, http://www.math.harvard.edu/archive/101_spring_00/www/gallery/gold/ index.html.

[3] J. Lee, “Logarithmic Spiral”, 10 Lessons in Fractals, Complex Patterns, and Chaos. 2003, http://mathforum.org/lisab/fourth_lesson/part_4.htm.

[4] E. Baird, “Fibonacci Series Tiling, with Triangles”, ErkDemon, 2009, http://erkdemon.blogspot.com/2009/06/fibonacci-series-tiling-with-triangles.html.

[5] Z. Kazlacheva, “Fibonacci Squares in Fashion Design”, ARTTE Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education, vol. 2, no. 2, pp. 91-98, 2014, https://sites.google.com/a/trakia-uni.bg/artte/articles/artte-vol-2-no-2.

[6] B. Clair. “Golden Triangle Spiral”, Math and the Art of MC Escher, 2008, http://euler.slu.edu/escher/index.php?title=File:Golden-triangle-spiral.svg&limit=20.

[7] Z. Kazlacheva, “Fibonacci Rose in Fashion Design”, ARTTE Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education, vol. 2, no. 3, pp. 224-230, 2014, https://sites.google.com/a/trakia-uni.bg/artte/articles/artte-vol-2-no-3.

[8] J. Ilieva, “Fibonacci Rose in Textile Design”, ARTTE Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education, vol. 2, no. 4, pp. 258-269, 2014, https://sites.google.com/a/trakia-uni.bg/artte/articles/artte-vol-2-no-4.

[9] J. Sharp, In pursuit of pursuit curves, ISAMA 99, N. Friedman and J. Barrallo, eds. University of the Basque Country. 1999.

[10] D. Reich, “The Fibonacci Sequence, Spirals and the Golden Mean”, https://math.temple.edu/~reich/Fib/fibo.html.

http://www.math.harvard.edu/archive/101_spring_00/www/gallery/gold/


ISSN-1791-1133 40

Optical method for analyzing of fiber distribution in the structure of nonwoven

materials with medical destination

Romulus Bulacu1, Daniela Farima2, Mihai Ciocoiu3, Georgios Priniotakis4

1,2,3 Technical University “Gheorghe Asachi”, Iasi, Romania, E-mail: [email protected]

4 Piraeus University of Applied Science, Greece, E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract

In nonwoven materials industry, fiber orientation in the product structure is an important feature, because it directly influences their properties. Uniformity mass and the physical and mechanical properties of nonwoven materials for medical use constitute basic requirements. In parallel with the description the unevenness using linear function of length variation is necessary and analysis variation of surface function. Evaluation of nonwoven material surface is achieved using multi-resolution microscopic image technique that put in evidence the fibers placement in the nonwoven material. Present paper shows how use polarized light microscopy to highlight the degree of uniformity of fiber distribution in the nonwoven material for medical use. It uses an own method of analysis of the distribution of the ends of fiber on the surface of the fabric. Was achieved namely a grid divided into sectors 300. The microscope image is captured on a computer monitor attached. It makes heads fiber counting and the average is used to do the histograms distribution of fibers from the analyzed material. The method is used to analyze the quality of medical destination nonwoven textiles made from mixtures of fibers to replace imports of similar materials made from filaments and sure more expensive. Note that these materials with medical destination have been made on the installation Spinnbau-Hegerth. Normally this installation produces nonwoven material weighing 100 g / m2 from fiber 7.5 den.

Keywords: fiber, textile, medical, nonwoven, microscope

11.. Introduction

In the nonwoven material industry the fibers anisotropy is an important feature because it directly influences their properties. Nonwoven textile products require high uniformity of mass and high uniformity of the physic- mechanical properties. There are several ways of describing planar anisotropy and other characteristics of nonwoven fabrics. In parallel with the description of linear textile uniformity by using density variation of length, it can also use the description of uniformity by varying surface appearance [1, 2]. The appreciation of the appearance surface it can be done by the consistency or uniformity of the nonwoven fabric using microscopic imaging technique with multi-resolution capture mode, so it can be done an evaluation of the nonwoven material. Aim of the study is to present a solution for realization of a good production of nonwoven textiles for medical use. These non woven textiles, with mass per unit area



ISSN-1791-1133 41

of up to 40 g / m2, are taken in this moment over border, so that their production in the country has a special economic interest. The paper shows a simple and original method of assessment of unevenness of non woven textile surface.

22.. General considerations carding-folding technology and building thermal calendaring

A specific technological process carding consists of a folding machine - folded horizontally provided with trolleys and conveyors.

Figure 1: Scheme carding an aggregate whole-folding

Deposition of the fibers veil after angles folding α1 = α2, with the values of less than 30 °, in the direction of the folding machine, as shown in figure 2 occurs due to the movement of industrial bands, at the alternative movement of carts and pickup traveling band of fibrous layer in a perpendicular direction.

Figure 2: Filing the veil under folding angles at the carding -folding process

Thus a carding -folding aggregate must contain: - an aggregate feeding-dosing-mixing-tearing-carding (1) to which are fed the fibers F for obtain the veil V; -a folding machine (2) who producing a layer fibrous SF by folding carding veil on the band receiver (3) of fibrous layer; - the intermediate conveyor belt (4) which feeds to a consolidation installation. In general, is used a double carding, for wool or bast fiber type, or simple carding for cotton fiber. The veil of carding fibers is placed in the zig-zag after folding under the α1 and α2 angles, using a folded strollers on a conveyor belt (3), positioned at right angles to the direction of travel of the veil of fibers carded. Filing of the fiber veil under angles α1 =


ISSN-1791-1133 42

α2, in the value of less than 30 0, in the direction of the folding machine, is presented in figure 2. Preliminary parameters of the folding process are: - The height position of the reception tape in relation to the pickup roller, depending on the thickness of the fiber layer; - The angle between the individual layers of veil, is determined by the speed of supply of the veil of the card, taking over speed of the fiber layer and the width of folding. The fling of the veil after two folding angles α1 and α2, is given by the speed of folding and the value determined by the value of the two working speeds; - Feed rate of the veil to fold, when the trolley moves inversely to the direction of the veil food folding machine;

-Download speed of fibrous layer PV .

The filing of the veil after two folding angles α1 and α2 is the result of strict adherence to the conditions and is called fibrous layer that require perpendicular speed vectors and speed reduction, according to the relations (1) and (2).

P AV V P AV'V and P AV V P A

V'V (1)

The folding speeds value are given by equations (2)

2 2

R A P= +V V V and 2 2

PR AV' = V' + V

2 2

PR AV' = V' + V (2)

In figure3 is presented the scheme of the conventional folding system, which is made from the veil supply conveyor (1), the upper carriage and the upper belt (2), the lower carriage and the lower band (3), the reception band for the fiber layer (4) and borrowers cylinders (5). The conveyors and the rollers from a compact unit, must be in perfect synchronization in order to obtain maximum uniformity. From the system diagram is observed that the three conveyor belts work in the debit sense of the card, and the fourth band working perpendicular to the others.


ISSN-1791-1133 43

Figure 3: The folded installation

Upper feed belt (1) with fixed position, feeds veil (V) cutting the card with speed

folding machine and puts it on top of the trolley band (2) whose race is half the width of the takeover the fibrous layer (4). The tape (2) transfer belt veil lower carriage (3), which has a stroke equal to the width of the fibrous layer, equal to the width of the receptacle (4). Solidar with lower trolley (3) are a pair of cylinders borrowers (5), which together will make the veil on tape (4). Regarding the process for obtaining non-woven textile for medical use is mentioned following: since Spinnbau-Hergeth equipment is designed and constructed to 7.5 den fiber processing and obtaining a fibrous layer of minimum 100 g / m², they were required changes to the geometry of deposit transport unit of the veil, adjustments of technological and mechanical system. Adjustments were made so much carding machine and to the folded sistem. It also required changes to the geometry of the folded assembly and the fibrous layer was reduced as mass. This is why to appear the currents due to "stray" and also appeared oblique overlapping portions which generating mass irregularities and the thickness of the fibrous layer. Reducing the distance in the deposition area of fibrous web by the folded bodies, it caused the disappearance of these currents and therefore obtaining a uniform fiber layer. Preliminary consolidation, by passing of fibrous layer through the warm air current of about 190º C, assures to the fibrous layer a dimensional stability during interphasic transport to final consolidation by thermal calendering.

3. The orientation and distribution of the fibers in the fibrous layer structure

The research aimed to achieve two medical items, with weight not exceeding 40 g / m², further identified by codes A1 and A2 [3,4,5].


ISSN-1791-1133 44

Item code

The fiber composition and fiber characteristics. Participation rate (%).

Mass per unit surface

(g/m²)

A1 70% standard polypropylene fibre, 4den/100mm; 70% standard polypropylene fiber, 4den / 100mm; 30% PE / PES 4 den / 50 mm, two-component core-shell, jacket PE, PET-core;

40 - 50

A2 70% polyester fibers standard 4den / 64 mm; 30% polyethylene fiber / polyester 4 den / 50 mm, two-component core-sheath polyethylene sheath-core polyester

40 - 50

Table 1: The fiber composition of articles analyzed

The products of nonwoven textiles used today anywhere claim high mass uniformity and high uniformity of the physico- mechanical properties [2]. To analyze how to place the fibers on the nonwoven textile material are activated microscopic image technique with multiple resolution who thus make an assessment of the nonwoven fabric surface. This paper uses the technique microscopic for appreciation the surface uniformity and the anisotropy fiber level is done visually in polarized light on device and viewing on the monitor the images were captured from the plant shown in figure 4.

Figure 4: The interface to capture microscopic computer

In figures 5, and 6 are presented specimens selected from the captured image on the monitor system of figure 4. It is noted that the positioning of the fibers in the structure of the two articles A1 and A2, it is clear unoriented, so it can be assumed the high degree of anisotropy. Multidirectional orientation of the fibers is evident, even though the fiber layers have been obtained by carding-folding process, which normally results in a fiber orientation in the direction of the folding angles α1 and α2.


ISSN-1791-1133 45

Figure 5: Microscpoic image of the article A1

Figure 6: Microscopic image of the article A2

The distribution of the surface fibers analyzed, is natural to be so uneven, but this unevenness is reduced and will be highlighted by size of the variation coefficient of the number of the fiber ends free on the surface of the material.

4. Results and discussions

As a result is ensured uniformity distribution of the fibers in non-woven fabrics. It notes that, due to fewer solder points, about 10%, there are on the material surface the fibers ends which can have influence on physical and mechanical properties. The method consists in analyzing of the captured image and in determine the number of fiber ends on the surface of a circular sector, who is traced on the image of the sample analyzed in polarized light. Of course, that the sensory appreciation is marked by a degree of subjectivity, which is why it is proposed in this paper own method of highlighting the degree of fiber orientation. It used a grid, on which were traced sectors of 30°, overlaid on the captured image, and then were counted on each sector, the ends of the fibers obvious. It should be noted that this method can be applied only to the low weight non-woven, that is to say the mass of nonwoven materials having from 10 g/m2 to 50 g / m2, that is, also those which are intended for medical articles.


ISSN-1791-1133 46

Figure 7 Microscopic image of the article A1 grid

Figure 8: Microscopic image of the article A2 grid

The research consisted in counting of the freed head of fibers in each sector, the action is repeated 10 times and the results are used for calculating the average per sector. These values were used for calculating the percentage weight on the analyzed sector surface. With these values were plotted histograms of figures 9 and 10.

Figure 9: Histogram A1 Figure 10: Histogram A2

The histograms analysis from figures 9 and 10 show that the surface of articles A1 and A2 includes not all fiber, such that the ends of fibers may to cause some inconvenience due to presence of possible hanging points. Differences between percentage weightings between sectors, for article A1 are low, with values ranging between about 14% and about 17%, except sectoarele 1200 -3000 and 1500-3300, at which share ends of fiber is approximately 11% and about 28%. Regarding at the article A2, uniform distribution of the end of fibers is larger, from about 12% and till about 18%. These observations above show that two articles have relatively uniform areas, with most of the fibers embedded in the material structure. Consequently it is estimated that the two items can be used for the purpose for which they were created. An improvement of the


ISSN-1791-1133 47

calendering phase will allow embedding a higher percentage of fiber ends in the material structure.

5. Conclusions

1. These two articles with medical destination, made of fibers, can be produced on Spinnbau-Hergeth equipment. 2. A own method it used for the analyses the surface of articles , in polarized light, for establishing of the number of free fiber ends from each sector 300. 3. These two article made from nonwoven material, can be used with medical destination.

References

[1] Militky,J.Klica,V Some tools for nonwovens uniformity description ,4th Intrnational Textile,Clothing&Design Conference -Magic World of Textile October 2008,Dubrovnik , Croatia

[2] Romulus Bulacu , Daniela Farima ,Georgios Priniotakis , Iulian Mancasi Disposable nonwoven textiles produced by carding-fold technology International Scientific Conference eRA-8 ISSN-1791-1133 Athena , Grecee ,2009

[3] Prospecte Thibeau-Asselin, Franţa

[4] Bulacu, R., Zamfir, M., Fărimă, D., Ciocoiu M., Researches on the Medical Nonwovens Made by Carding-lapping and Thermally Bonding Processes, 5th International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference – Magic World of Textiles, October 03rd to 06th 2010, Dubrovnik, Croatia.

[5] Bulacu, R., Zamfir, M., Ciocoiu, M., Researches on Some Medical Nonwovens Obtained by Carding-Lapping Fibrous Web and Thermally Bonding Process. Buletinul Institutului Politehnic din Iaşi, Publicat de Universitatea Tehnică „Gheorghe Asachi” din Iaşi, Tomul LIV (LVIII), Fasc. 1, Secţia Textile. Pielărie, nr. 3, 2009.

.


ISSN-1791-1133 48

Romanian traditional patterns reinterpreted and stylized using computer

graphics programs

L. Indrie1, O. Stan2, L. Doble1

1 Dpt. of Textiles-Leather and Industrial Management, University of Oradea, Oradea, Romania, Tel: +40 259 408448, E-mail: [email protected], [email protected]

2 Student, Dpt. of Textiles-Leather and Industrial Management, University of Oradea, Oradea, Romania, E-mail: [email protected]

Abstract

The paper presents the development stages of the jacquard knitted fabrics used for skirts in the collection called Romanian Rhapsody presented by Ovidiu Stan (the artistic design of the model, the stylized drawings of knitted fabrics for skirts were done using CorelDRAW graphics program, their pattern knitting and drawing for the skirt with the help of Gemini CAD program). In this collection the specific elements of the Romanian traditional costumes from the ethnographic area called Cris Land were reinterpreted and stylized in a modern and sophisticated manner according to the current trends and requirements in the fashion industry.

Keywords: jacquard knitted fabrics, CAD programs, fashion industry.

1. Introduction

Romanian folklore is the best preserved, most varied and traditional in Europe. The tasteful beauty of the regional costumes can be seen throughout Romania. The costumes reflect ethnic identity and document the historical and artistic values of the Romanian people. [1] Romanian traditional patterns retain their authenticity offering an extravagant touch to their outfits and highlighting strong, romantic or playful personalities to those who wear them. Nowadays the traditional Romanian costume became an inspiration source to the wholesale fashion production industry designers, both Romanian and international. [2]

Ovidiu Stan student at the Department of Textiles-Leather and Industrial Management of the University of Oradea, Romania, brought into the limelight a knitwear collection inspired by the romanian folklore called Romanian Rhapsody. In this collection he resorted to the elements of traditional Romanian costumes with patterns specific to Cris Land area.

The pencil skirt, so much appreciated by many fashion designers could not miss this collection. This is a popular fashion item, with time becoming la piece de resistance in every woman's wardrobe. It is a timeless piece and can be successfully integrated in a variety of outfits. Initially seen as a piece of clothing suitable exclusively for office





ISSN-1791-1133 49

outfits, the pencil skirt seems to have broken the formalities barrier and successfully to be found in smart casual or evening combinations.

2. Romanian traditional patterns reinterpreted and stylized with the help of the computer

In this collection the specific elements of the Romanian traditional costumes from the ethnographic area called Cris Land were reinterpreted and stylized in a modern and sophisticated manner according to the curent trends and requirements in the fashion industry.

Figure 1. Romanian Rhapsody collection

The first step in making this collection consisted in producing the artistic design of the skirt pattern. Based on photographs, drawings, samples from Romanian folk costumes from Crisurilor Land, the stylized drawings of knitted fabrics for skirts were made using CorelDRAW [3] Graphics program. This program is based on the use of vector graphics, allowing the size and shape of the drawings to be changed without losing the image quality. Being simple and efficient, it allows easy integration of text with images, in combinations, shapes and colors of great diversity. The program also offers many special effects. [4]


ISSN-1791-1133 50

Figure 2: Romanian traditional costume from Crisurilor Land

Figure 3: Romanian traditional costume reinterpreted and stylized with the help of CorelDRAW program

The second phase consisted in the representation of the knits drawing. For the skirts from the “Romanian Rhapsody” the non full jacquard knits in 4-color based on patent linkage 1:1 were executed. The knits with jacquard drawings are obtained by successive feeding of yarns with different colours, in this way may be achieved large and huge drawing reports, which require jacquard mechanisms. Jacquard knits are characterized by the fact that jacquard designs can appear either on one side or both sides of the fabric. To make jacquard knits the individual drive of needles is used. These knits can be achieved both on a machine with one font and also two fonts. [5] Given the large size of jacquard designs, in order to represent them it is used a fourth method of representation: the layout representation design.

Figure 4: Layout representation of the knits jacquard design

The models obtained were sent to S.C Silvana SA company from Cehul Silvaniei, where the skirts were knitted on V-bed flat knitting machine Stoll CMS 530 E 6.2 and programs designed on M1 pattern station.


ISSN-1791-1133 51

Figure 5: The knits executed at Silvana SA company

The third phase consisted in drawing the design of the skirt with the help of Gemini CAD program.

Figure 6: Drawing the design of skirts with the help of Gemini CAD program

The final model of the skirts from “Romanian Rapsody” collection is presented in the following figure:

Figure 7: The skirts presented in “Romanian Rhapsody” collection


ISSN-1791-1133 52

3. Conclusion

We wish to conclude by affirming that the computer use has many advantages: - the expense and time is reduced in a considerable manner when compared to the laborious manual work of designing; - computer graphics programs are used to increase the productivity of the designer, improve the quality of design, and they can now see how a particular fabric or garment looks in different colours and shapes on computer screen itself without producing any sample swatch; - the designs can be easily customized and personalized as corrections and editing can be done at any time without significant delays or cost increases.

References

[1] ***Traditional romanian folk costumes. [Online]. Available:

[2] http://unirea.org.au/index.php/blog/item/71-traditional-romanian-folk-costumes

[3] A. Mocenco, S. Olaru, G. Popescu, C. Ghituleasa, Romanian folklore motifs in fashion design, Annals of the University of Oradea, Fascicle of Textiles-Leatherwork, Oradea, vol XV, nr. 1, 2014, pp. 63-68.

[4] Indrie, L., Tripa, S., The use of CorelDRAW program for the representation of weft knitted structures, Annals of the University of Oradea, Fascicle of Textiles-Leatherwork, Oradea, vol XVI, nr. 2, 2015, pp. 41-46.

[5] G., D., Bouton, (2014, October 17). CorelDRAW X7: The Official Guide, Mc. Graw Hill Education, [Online]. Available: http://www.amazon.com/CorelDRAW-X7-Gary-David-Bouton/dp/0071833145/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1425041357&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=corel+draw+books#reader_0071833145

[6] Tripa, S., Indrie, L., Structura tricoturilor din bătătură şi reprezentarea acestora in CorelDRAW, Editura Universităţii din Oradea, ISBN 978-973-759-370-2, pp. 221, 2008.

http://unirea.org.au/index.php/blog/item/71-traditional-romanian-folk-costumes

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=rdr_ext_aut?_encoding=UTF8&index=books&field-author=Gary%20David%20Bouton

http://www.amazon.com/dp/0071833145/ref=rdr_ext_tmb

http://www.amazon.com/CorelDRAW-X7-Gary-David-Bouton/dp/0071833145/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1425041357&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=corel+draw+books#reader_0071833145



market survey for aromatherapy products in north-east...

Documents