“Greener Chemistry for Personal

Care”

York 22nd June 2010

David Elliott -Facilitator

Care”

A definition

• “Green chemistry, also known as sustainable chemistry, is the design of chemical products and processes that reduce or eliminate the use or generation reduce or eliminate the use or generation of hazardous substances. Green chemistry applies across the life cycle of a chemical product, including its design, manufacture, and use.”

• Source – EPA.

Myths and realities

• Need to balance effectiveness/safety.

• Sustainability.

• Mass market – volume.

• Regulatory issues – how many • Regulatory issues – how many preservatives are allowed?

• Market drivers. Market trends e.g. Turbo Beauty/Nu Natural.

• Market power.

• EFSA.

Some concerns

• Parabens: preservatives linked to cancer & skin allergies

• - Petrochemicals: artificially fragrance & colour products

• Formaldehydes: preservative linked to asthma &headaches

• - Sodium Laureth Sulphate / Sodium Lauryl Sulphate:foaming agents known to cause skin irritations

Further concerns

• Mineral oils like silicones linked to premature ageing and headaches

• - Aluminium salts in deodorants linked to Alzheimer's diseaseAlzheimer's disease

• - Phthalates believed to cause hormone disruption & asthma

Research

“An appropriately designed cosmetic regimen can improve facial can improve facial wrinkle appearance comparably with the benchmark prescription treatment, with improved tolerability”

Food/drink with beauty

enhancing claims

• Asia leads

• Ex Mintel

Supplements with beauty

enhancing claims -Mintel

Beauty/food/supplement top

beauty claims-Mintel

Product Formulation

• Cyclopentasiloxane, aqua (water, eau), butylene glycol, Dimethicone

crosspolymer, Cyclohexasiloxane, Glycerine, Arabinogalactan, Sodium

ascorbyl phosphate, Magnesium sulphate, Dimethicone copolyol,

Phenoxyethanol, Sodium PCA, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, Hexyl

laurate, Polyglyceryl-4 isosterarate, Retinyl palmitate, Medicago sativa

(Alfalfa) extract, Methylparaben, Propylene glycol, Lupinus albus seed

extract, Butylparaben, Ethyparaben, Carbomer, Propylparaben, extract, Butylparaben, Ethyparaben, Carbomer, Propylparaben,

Isobtylparaben, Polysorbate 20, Panax ginseng root extract, Morus alba leaf

extract, Tocopherol, Palmityl ologopeptide, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide -7.

• Hint – a phenomenally successful product!

No 7

• A winner!

Salcura

Aqua, Aqua Minerale/Brine, Maris Sal

(Dead Sea Minerals), Glycerine, Melaleuca

Alternifolia, Hippophaes Rhamnoides, Alternifolia, Hippophaes Rhamnoides,

Leptospermum Scoparium, Santalum

Spicatum, Melaleuca Ericafolia,

Leptospermum Petersonii, Lavendula

Augustifolia, Rosmarinus Officinalis,

Triticum Vulgare, Aloe Barbadensis,

Helianthus Annus.

Mass market response?

Typical ingredients

• Collagen.

• Co-Q10.

• Grapeseed extract.

• Lutein.• Lutein.

• Lycopene.

• Omegas.

• Vitamins A,C, E.

• Zinc.

The Future?

• Vegetable ingredients – super fruits done to death? Sea buckthorn?

• Durian husks – anti-cellulite?

• Rhodiola? Siberian ginseng? Pycnogenol?• Rhodiola? Siberian ginseng? Pycnogenol?

• Oat/cereal based ingredients?

• Will a major global brand ever go fully natural?

• Marine bioactives? Milk proteins?

• Mushroom extracts?

The Yorkshire & Humber Picture

Where have we come from?Objective

“Facilitate the formation of partnerships which

enhance the profitability and competitiveness of

members of the personal care supply chain

(opportunity brokerage!)”

• Momentum still continues to increase – new Companies becoming engaged all the time! Core activity is the development of new business opportunities in the UK and Overseas.

• 10 meetings & 5 newsletters (more to come)

(opportunity brokerage!)”

Where are we now?• New identity/new framework

(Funded by Yorkshire Forward managed by YCF).

• This combination is leading to new openings and an increasing range of opportunities.opportunities.

• Examples include International collaboration, a wider network, possibilities of R&D with the University sector and an engagement with Croda, Boots,Reckitt Benckiser, SSL etc via Open Innovation.

Events in 2010• Numerous UK/export

opportunities flagged to Companies.

• Major event in Leeds over 100 delegates/overseas speaker.

• Visit to In-Cosmetics 2010 –7839 visitors. Numerous contacts some of which have contacts some of which have already led to meetings.

• Activities on behalf of Universities/Lectures/Links with Canada/France/Singapore well established.

• Increasing involvement in Open Innovation.

• Developing new collaborative models.

Where do we plan to go?

• More events

• More contacts

• More intense interventions

• More formal structure

• Bigger menu

• Another large interventions • Another large event.