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PANNONIAD E L I G H T F U L

A Vinophile&Culinary Tour

of Burgenland in Austria

VINARIA

PROJECTPART-FINANCEDBYTHE FEDERALSTATE

OFAUSTRIA,THEPROVINCEBURGENLANDAND

THEE UROPEANREGIONAL DEVELOPMENTFUND.

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ForewordThe mild climate, outstanding soils and skilled winegrowers of Burgenland have turned our region into theperfect place for the new culture of wine. A large number of enthusiastic young vintners are combining oltraditions in a masterful manner with innovation and ultramodern know-how to produce wines of inter-national stature. At the same time, the high quality of those wines is also finding expression in modernbuildings of often breathtakingly beautiful architecture. The cuisine of Burgenland is just as excellent asits wines, and outstanding, locally grown, natural products provide the basis for highly praised, authenticcuisine in the f inest Pannonian tradition. Today the best recipes from the cookery books of the nativeGerman-, Croatian- and Hungarian-speaking populations are appearing on the menus of Burgenlandsatmospheric winebars, cosy inns and award-winning restaurants. The present publication provides aninformative overall view of the world of wine and winegrowers in Burgenland along with excellentculinary tips that make the province well worth a visit. Burgenland offers natural landscapes that are

unique in Europe along with outstanding cultural events, providing wine-loving visitors with countlesspossibilities for discovering and becoming acquainted with Burgenland in all its beauty. I wish all the bonsvivants, friends and guests of Burgenland holding this publication in their hands an enjoyable, excitingread as well as an equally exciting and pleasurable voyage of discovery to our wonderful land in the sun.

Mario Baier | Director, Burgenland Tourist Board

Land of DiversityWhen it comes to wine, Austrias youngest federal province is one of the countrysmost important. Many wine-lovers and experts call Burgenland the land of diversityand we believe with good reason. The palette of the provinces wines ranges from fruitminerally white wines to powerful, expressive reds to very special sweet wines.Friends of sparkling wines will also find them in outstanding quality in Burgenland.There are many reasons for the incomparable diversity of the wines of Burgenland:the province has been shaped by everything from the terroir to the structure of thewine estates, from the technological expertise of the winegrowers to the influenceof historical developments. This is a wine-land that offers not only an unbelievabvariety of different styles but that also offers them and for us this is the decisivepoint in very high quality. This is a reflection primarily of the men and women wh

make them. Many winemakers have invested in ultramodern wine-cellars that arealso architecturally impressive, and they are purposefully continuing the development of high-quality winesthat started in the late 1980s and early 1990s. Austrias winegrowers receive excellent training, and many othem also have international professional experience. In the vineyard they focus on the soil and microclimain selecting an ideal combination of earth, exposure and grape variety, placing a special emphasis on indigenous varietals. The wines of Burgenland are part of the provincial lifestyle and are the perfect accompani-ment to Austrian cuisine. Together with the wide range of activities available to tourists, they are just oneof many reasons for visit ors to become better acquainted with Burgenland.

Christian Zechmeister (l.), | Managing Director of Wein BurgenlandAndreas Liegenfeld (r.), | Chairman of Wein B urgenland

Symbiosis of Tradition and ModernityThe wide variety of Burgenlands landscapes and cultures finds its logical expression in the diversity of its winesMuch has been accomplished in the past 25 years: Burgenland has changed from a wine region marked bytradition to one that is future-oriented in an exemplary manner. Wine-loving visitors will find this symbiosis ofancient customs and modernity everywhere they look: in the varietals grown, such as Blaufrnkisch, as well asin the styles, such as Ruster Ausbruch. The wide variety of those styles and the reactivation of historical vine-

yards, such as Joiser Berg, are an indication of the kind of modern, world-class wines that are now being pro-duced. It is simply unbelievable what the winegrowers of Burgenland are now doing with a Pinot Noir that isunmistakeably Austrian. And equally unbelievable is just how complex and full-bodied their white-wine blendshave become. Burgenlands sweet vintages have meanwhile earned themselves a global reputation, and thehigh-quality vineyards producing them are found here in a density unheard of elsewhere in the world. Thepalette of varieties is also extremely diverse, ranging from Welschriesling to the aromatic varietals Smling,Traminer and Muscat. Traditional vintners houses alternate with highly demanding, futuristic architecture. All inall, its no wonder that New Yorks star sommelier Aldo Sohm raves about these wines in his VINARIA interviewBut thats not all that makes a journey to discover the wines of Burgenland so wonderful: theres also thewarmth and kindness of the people and the wonderfully fine food of their inns and restaurants.

Peter Schleimer | Editor-in-chief, VINARIA

FOREWOR

PANNONIA |

Photos:WeinBurgenland,

RobertHerbst,

BurgenlandTourismus

Truly the Heart of EuropeHow to Get There

Burgenland is certainly one of Austrias most

tempting destinations. As the republics

easternmost province it is the connecting link

between the Austrian Alps and the lowland

plains of Hungary and offers a wide variety

of different landscapes: from mountains to

wooded hills to flatlands with the famous

steppe lake known in English as Lake

Neusiedl.

Easy to reach from any direction, Austriassunniest province has a wealth of cultural,

natural and leisure activities to offer and

is especially popular with bons viveurs,

gourmets and friends of fine wine.

W

Wine Regionsof Burgenland

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CONTENT

PANNONIA |

6 Paradise in PannoniaBurgenland is a truly multifaceted holidayparadise.

14 Pannonias Winegrowing Regions

24 Burgenlands VarietiesAn introduction to the provinces mostprominent grape varieties.

28 DACOrigin Really Matters: A Portrait of theThree Burgenland DACs.

32 Sweet DelightsThe world-class wines that are BurgenlandsPannonian Gold.

34 Vintners AssociationsSatisfaction is guaranteed when wine-growers make an organized commitmentto quality and tradition.

36 Interview with Aldo SohmNew Yorks star sommelier talks about the

wines that are making Burgenland famous.

38 Wine & ArchitectureRemarkable new and remodelled venues forenjoying the wines of Burgenland.

48 Burgenlands Wine ShopsWho can resist the combination of acomprehensive stock of fine wines and astylish ambience?

50 Pannonian LivingStress-free holidays offer a chance to focuson yourself, the natural beauty that sur-rounds you and the pleasures of the region.

52 A Holiday on a Wine EstateLiving with wine and gaining new insightsinto a winegrowers world.

54 Best of BurgenlandThe finest regional hotels, with qualityguaranteed by a mark of excellence.

56 Pannonian CuisineInternational delicacies and local specialities

are wonderful with the wines of Burgenland.

62 Luscious Lamb and Tasty TomatoesBurgenland is keeping its unique culinarytraditions alive.

64 Your Own Piece of Paradise

66 Masthead and Addresses

50Wines WisdomWhether youre descend-

ing into a pleasantly

cool wine cellar for an

enjoyable wine-tasting

session or simply strol-ling through the vine-

yards, a holiday on a

wine estate is a pleasure

of a very special kind.

56

Wining & Dining

The cuisine of Burgen-

land is alive and well

like never before. Some

of the countrys top

restaurants now feature

Pannonian delicacies

with an international

flair. Of course, they

dont neglect the pro-

vinces heartier

cuisine either, which

goes fabulously with

the finest wines

of Burgenland.

4 | PANNONIA

38 Form Follows Function

Handsome architecture can powerfully influence ones

enjoyment of wine. Burgenlands winegrowers are

leaders when it comes to combining wine and archi-

tecture and have been remarkably successful in both

architectural design and the fruit of the wine.

6 Paradise in Pannonia

A sunny eldorado with a steppe lake, the home of idyllic

natural landscapes and impressive cultural treasures, a

melting pot of peoples and religions as well as the origin

of great wines and culinary specialities: Burgenland is a

multifaceted holiday paradise.

14 Many Areas, Many Characters

Burgenland thrives on its geographic and climatic

diversity. With four distinct winegrowing areas the

province offers a varied viticultural landscape featuring

everything from outstanding dry white wines to

powerful reds to sweet vintages with an internationalreputation.

CONTENTS

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Where are we here? Afric

Asia? Euro pe? L apwin

fill the skies above th

broad, flat landscape, th

males chattering raucously as they da

back and forth before suddenly plungin

vertically towards the ground. Two stork

flap their wings at a leisurely p ace as th

head towards the lake, gazing envious

at a spoonbill catching a frog with th

same amazing dexterity as his counte

part in the Okavango delta of Botswan

The silt sandpipers and redshanks staindustriously along the muddy shor

while in the dense undergrowth a gre

white egret is waiting patiently for h

prey, much like his cousin, the purp

heron of central Kazakhstan. In the pad

dock two young Przewalski stallions a

engaged in a trial of strength. Soon th

will be returned for release in the

native Mongolia. A shor t distance awa

woolly Mangalitsa pigs are pleasurab

wallowing in the mud, while the Hunga

ian grey cattle wave their mighty horn

as they move to the next grassy meado

not unlike their relatives along th

Ngorongoro Crater of Tanzania. They a

watched carefu lly by grou nd squirre

that have emerged from their undeground burrows and now stand on the

hind legs like meerkats in the Nam

desert of southwestern Africa. Alon

the horizon behind the lake rises

mountain range where the snow linge

until June, looking much like the Tie

Shan range of Central Asia.

No other region in Central Europ

offers as many contrasts and differenc

in such a small area as Burgenland. Her

where the foothills of the Alps flow in

the great steppes of the Eastern Europea

plains, it is not just the fauna th

seems to unite aspects of almost eve

other geographic area. Burgenland

also a mixture of various culture

religions, traditions, costumes, song

recipes and plants from throughou

Europe and beyond. And it unites the

in an extremely peaceful and fruitf

manner. In a region of such opennes

hospitality is not something peop

only pay lip-service to; they convin

ingly put it into practice every day.

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PANNONIA |

nnonia

I Sunset at Lake Neusieldl:A harmon

of colour,warmth and gentle breezes.Photo:WeinBurgenland/JoachimLukan

6 | PANNONIA

Paradise in PA STEPPE LAKE BATHED IN SUN-

LIGHT (300 days a year), nature and

culture in a perfect European sym-

biosis, world-class wines and people

to whom hospitality is a matter of

the heart: Burgenland has become

a multifaceted holiday paradise.

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watchers from around the world. Thewell-spaced observation towers and hidesprovide the perfect place for observingsome 300 different species.

The lake also serves as a source ofwarmth for the vineyards and vegetablefields along its shores. Arable crops andfruit come quickly to maturity thanks tothe many hours of sunlight andtemperatures that remain comfortableeven in the late autumn. The areaaround the lake has always been a pleas-ant place to live. The legendary Esterhzydynasty built magnificent Baroque pal-aces nearby, and they are just as splen-

did today. The unique combination ofnatural beauty and cultural achieve-ments led UNESCO in 2001 to add thearea to its World Heritage List.

Between the hilly landscape of Rosaliaand the Geschriebenstein Natural Park,central Burgenland is home to some ofthe finest red-wine vineyards in Austria,if not in Europe. The south is marked bythe fluvial landscapes of the Lafnitz andthe Pinka rivers, with hills, forests, smallvineyards and extensive orchards whereapples, pears, apricots and plums flour-ish, supplying the raw materials for Aus-trias finest distillates. There are six large

natural parks in the province, LakNeusiedl-Leitha Mountains, RosaliKogelberg, Landseer Berge, Geschribenstein-rott-k, Wine Idyll and thRaab-rsg-Goric ko Three-CountPark (Austria-Hungary-Slovenia).

Diversity of Cultureand Nature

Burgenlands culture is just as diveras its natural beauty. The composJoseph Haydn lived and worked in Eisestadt for almost 40 years, making whis now the provincial capital a musiccentre in his day. Today the worlds fineperformers of Haydns works appe

annually from May to October in thoriginal venues, among them thmagnificent hall in Esterhzy PalacNamed after the composer, it is one the finest concert halls in the worlHaydns motto is just as valid today

when he first uttered it more than 20years ago: My language is understoothroughout the world.

Another genius of music history honoured in the small town of Raidinthe virtuoso pianist and composer FranLiszt. A purpose-built musical centnext to the house where he was born hbecome a venue for high-calibre cocerts, including those of the LisztomanFestival in 2011 marking the 200th annversary of the composers birth.

But thats not all: Mrbisch hbecome a musical mecca where clascal operettas are staged every summon a giant stage on the shore of LakNeusiedl. Some 200,000 visitors a yeare evidence enough that operetta as aart form is alive and well. Only a fekilometres away and within shootindistance of Lake Neusiedl is the St. Magarethen Opera Festival, Europes thir

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PANNONIA |

I Gssing Castle: The fortress has bee

turned into a theatre stage on top ofan extinct volcano.

I Endless skies:The perfect setting

for migratory birds and fast h orses.

I Colourful landscape: A third of the

province is under a nature-protectionorder.

Photos:BurgenlandTourismus/LoisLammerhuber,Popp&Hack

ner

Small is Truly BeautifulBurgenland is Austrias easternmost

province and the perfect antithesis to the

countrys Alpine regions with their ski-

runs and cross-country trails. Burgen-

land extends from north to south along

the countrys eastern border, and with

an area of 4000 square kilometres it is

about the size of the US state of Rhode

Island or the English county of Somer-

set. From the northernmost point where

it meets Slovakia to the southernmost tip

bordering on Slovenia, Burgenland runs

for some 170 kilometres along the Hun-

garian border and is essentially the

western part of what was once the Roman

province of Pannonia. While the size of

Burgenland may not be impressive, the

content certainly is.

It is a land of wide plains, idyllic vine -

yards and th e hilly landscapes arou nd

Lake Neusiedl (a paradise for water-

sports enthusiasts and a unique nature

reserve) as well as mighty castles and

splendid palaces. Three hundred days of

sunshine a year provide excellent

growing conditions for the finest natural

products. Deep underground are

Austrias richest mineral-water reserves,

but Burgenland is also a region of

thermal springs of hot, healing waters

that promote health and wellbeing.

One third of the province is under a

nature-protection order, providing

ideal conditions for a holiday in harmony

with the great ou tdoors. A network o f

2500 kilometres of cycle paths and 1300

km of equestrian trails along with three

golf courses offers sports fans a high

level of enjoyment. The provinces

colourful cultural scene draws on the

rich traditions of Burgenlands ethnic

groups, which once inspired the music

of Joseph Haydn and Franz Liszt.

In the north, around Lake Neusiedl,

Burgenland benefits from a gentle

microclimate influenced by the largest

steppe lake in Central Europe. Long, hot

summers and winters with little snow

provide ideal conditions for the many

species of birds and for viticulture to

flourish. The migratory birds thrive in

this watery environment; the lake

remains free of ice until well into late

autumn and thaws early in the year. Lake

Neusiedl is a crossroads for migratory

birds from Africa that spend the summer

here and Nordic nesting birds that

spend the winter. In the spring, when

our feathered friends from the Atlantic

meet the last winter refugees from the

east, the National Park Neusied ler See-

Seewinkel becomes a paradise for bird-

8 | PANNONIA

Photo:BurgenlandTourismu

s/LoisLammerhuber

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first Christian chapels and classicalcountry mansions with generous bathsthat indicate the immense wealth ofthese Mediterranean colonists. They

were followed by the Huns and the Avarsfrom the east, the Germanic tribes fromthe north, the Magyars from Asia and theFranks from the west. Burgenland hasbeen the boundary between Austriaand Hungary since the turn of the firstmillennium. Bavarian settlers were

joined by Hungarian aristocrats, and inthe fifteenth century Croats fleeing fromthe Turks moved here.Then came Jewsfrom Austria and Roma from Hungary.This colourful mixture of peoples is

combined with a unique variety of reli-gions: Catholic, Protestants following theteachings of Luther and Calvin, and thelast remnants of Jewish communitiesthat once flourished here.

Burgenland thrives on the diversityand tolerance of its population, whichhas repeatedly demonstrated its pen-chant for hospitality over the centuriesand down to the present day. In hislegendary novel The Bridge at AndauJames Michener created a monument to

the generosity of the people of Burgen-land in his description of the Hungarianuprising of 1956, which saw hundreds ofthousands of refugees fleeing to the westto escape the Red Army.

The people of Burgenland openedtheir homes in the same manner againin 1989, when the first refugees fled viaHungary from East to West Germany.The movement that began with only afew hundred people crossing the Hun-garian border at Mrbisch in August1989 ended on 9 November of that yearin Germanys once and future capital,

when the Berlin Wall came down onceand for all.

Recreation for Body and SpirTodays visitors are still received wi

open arms and a welcoming smilAnd in a sense, they are also refugeesfleeing from the hectic pace of daily lifBurgenland welcomes them, offerinthem rest, relaxation and a wide range enjoyable activities. Cycling, for examplthe 2500 kilometres of cycle paths pehaps do not offer the thrills that mountain bikers are seeking, but they are aexcellent choice for those looking for

natural cycling experience in style. ThB10 Lake Neusiedl Cycle Path featureleven modern rest areas for getting a bof pleasant relaxation along the way. Ron is the motto of the Rolling Area Lutzmannsburg, where skaters roll along 4kilometres of skating paths.

With dozens of riding stables, rideinns and farmhouses as well as an extesive network of bridle paths, Burgenlanis one of the largest and most attractivequestrian regions in Austria. GPRiding is an innovative idea that hbeen introduced for equestrians throughout the province. The GPS devices aprovided free of charge to riders at spcial supply points. Another sporty anentertaining way to explore the idylllandscape of central Burgenland is drive a rail trolley down an abandonerailway line. And in Bad Tatzmannsdo

joggers and Nordic walkers can look foward to Austrias unique 420-kilometr

LAND OF PLEASU

PANNONIA | 1

I Classical beauty: The violinist Lidia

Baich at Esterhzy Palace. The HaydnHall is a venue for concerts all yearround. Traditional proficiency: Flag-swingers at Neckenmarkt celebrate alocal rite.

Photos:BurgenlandTourismus/IngoFolie,

SonnenlandMittelburgenland

largest open-air festival. The hugenatural stage of 7000 square metres isflanked by the monumental sandstone

walls of the former Roman quarry,which provides a magnificent setting forgrandiose operatic performances. The

Kobersdorf Castle Festival offerssummer theatre in the finest tradition inits enchanting arcaded courtyard. TheGssing Cultural Summer guarantees acheerful, entertaining evening oftheatre in a mighty fortress built on anextinct volcano. Eduard and JohannesKutrowatz offer musical highlights each

year at their spring Klangfr hlingFestival at Schlaining Castle, while

J:opera Jennersdorf in the southern-most part of Burgenland featuresexquisite open-air operatic perfor-mances at Tabor Palace.

The world-famous music festivals inWiesen offer performances by some of

the leading names from the world ofjazz, rock and pop, and in July andAugust young medieval fans (and theirparents) are invited to Fantastic BurgForchtenstein, a spectacle taken straightfrom the middle ages and staged in amighty fortress, where spectators seehistory come alive.This colourful kalei-doscope of cultural events is rounded offby exhibitions in the Baroque jewel of

Halbturn Palace, where Empress MariaTheresa once lived, at Kittsee Palace andat Forchtenstein Fortress. In addition theprovince is home to many art galleriesand museums.

Burgenlands many and varied cul-

tural offerings are closely tied to the pro-vinces turbulent history. A brief list ofthe various peoples who have livedhere reads like a WhosWho of the last2000 years. The first known inhabitants

were the Celts in about 700 BC. From thetime of Christ until around 400 AD theRomans lived in their province ofPannonia in what is now Burgenland.They made wine in style and built the

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role in this Austrian province, which has

the greatest density of award-winning

restaurants in the country, and the

wines served by l ocal sommeliers are

perhaps the finest in Central Europe. The

regions world-class wines range from

the distinctive varietal Blaufrnkischto the liquid gold of the incomparable

Trockenbeerenausleseand Eiswein.

Burgenland has a long tradition of

viticulture. Zagersdorf near Eisenstadt is

probably Austrias oldest wine village. At

a burial mound of the Hallstatt period

(ca. 700 BC), three seed fragments found

in a bowl have been identified as Vitis

vinifera, the worlds principal wine-

producing plant. Thus wine has been

produced in Burgenland for millennia

and was also being exported at an

early date.

A rapid increase in viticultural quality

set in around 1986 and has not lost its

momentum since. Many winegrowers

have undergone extensive, high-qualitytraining, which has often included

internships at first-rate wine estates

abroad. The know-how and vision thus

acquired have brought about great

quality improvements over the decades.

In recent years, intensive research into

soils, climate and varieties has greatly

benefited the regions autonomy and

authenticity.

Burgenland is divided into four wine-

growing areas Neusiedlersee, Neusied-

lersee-Hgelland, Mittelburgenland and

Sdburgenland all of which boast out-

standing and diverse terroirs. The soils

range from light sandy earth to gravel,

black-earth and loess soils to heavy loam

and clay, sometimes with considerable

calcium or iron content. In some areasthere is also primitive rock soil with

crystalline gneiss and shale. Whether

were talking about nature or culture,

Burgenland simply excels.The wines of

Burgenland are based on the provinces

incredible diversity, and the people of

Burgenland know how to take this diver-

sity and use it to the benefit of them-

selves and their visitors.

LAND OF PLEASU

PANNONIA |

I Golden greens: The many golf courses blend in with the gentle landscape.

Relaxing waters: Burgenlands spas offer soothing relaxation.

Photo:Sdburgenlan

dTourismus

long Jogging & Walking Arena with 280

kilometres of walking and hiking paths

as well as 138 kilometres of running

trails. The steady winds of Lake Neusiedl

are welcome to enthusiastic sailors and

surfers. The international surfing elite

shows up every spring for the Windsurf

World Cup, and the Summer Opening in

Podersdorf officially launches the Pan-

nonian surfing summer.

Golfers have a number of complexes

available: the one in Donnerskirchen

extends to within shooting distance of

Lake Neusiedl. Austrias biggest golfing

complex at Lafnitztal (with 45 holes in

all) will meet every semi-professional ex-

pectation and also provides a golf school

for children and an adventure forest. In

southern Burgenland, the modern 27-

hole course at Loipersdorf is especially

attractive with its setting in an idyllic

meadow landscape. The Golf Academy

at the Bad Tatzmannsdorf Golf & Coun-

try Club features the skilled teaching of

David Leadbetter, who many believe to

be the best golf instructor in the world.

A typical feature of Burgenland is the

combination of athletic activities and

relaxation at one of its excellent thermal

spas. In addition to the facilities in the

south in the area of Bad Tatzmannsdorf

and Stegersbach as well as in Lutz-

mannsburg, a new resort opened in the

north in 2009. It offers the same combi-

nation with the added attraction of a

natural experience. St. Martins Lodge in

Frauenkirchen is an expression of a com-

pletely new concept in ecotourism. The

resort offers daily expeditions with out-

standing biologists and zoologists into

the wilderness area of Seewinkel. The

response has been so great that the

resort has been constantly expanding it

ever since the lodge opened.

World-Class Wines

St. Martins Lodge is proof positive that

the pleasures of nature and the senses

go hand in hand in Burgenland. The finest

hotels and restaurants focus on using the

best local ingredients. Not far from St.

Martins Lodgea farmer grows more than

a thousand different varieties of toma-

toes from which he makes sugo, pesto,

jam and chu tney. Local fish fro m Lake

Neusiedl, such as pike and carp, along

with Hungarian grey cattle, Scottish

beef cattle and Mangalitsa pigs are

turned into wonderful delicacies.

Culinary traditions play an important

12 | PANNONIA

Photo:ThermengolfschaukelLafnitztal

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WINE REGION

PANNONIA |

Blessed with a sunny, warm

climate and fertile, mineral-rich soils, Burgenland has a fas-

cinating diversity of beautiful

winegrowing landscapes that produce a

wide range of different wines. To the east

of Lake Neusiedl, with its waves gently

lapping against the shores, lies the level

area of Seewinkel. Noted for its sandy

soils and unique flora and fauna, it

produces top-quality wines that enjoy a

worldwide reputation. Seewinkel and

the slightly higher Parndorf Plate to the

north, which produces red wines full

of character as well as powerful whites,

comprise the winegrowing area Neu-

siedlersee (named for Lake Neusiedl).

To the west of the shallow lake the vine-

yards spread along the belt of reeds near

the shore and extend onto the slopes ofthe surrounding mountains and rises,

including the Leitha Mountains and the

hills of Jois and Rust. From this diverse

landscape comes a trilogy of wines:

weighty whites, ro bust reds and high

structured sweet wines. Central Burgeland (Mittelburgenland) is dotted wi

castles and palaces and has four win

growing centres at Deutschkreut

Horitschon, Lutzmannsburg an

Neckenmarkt. The focus here is on th

classic red-wine varietal Blaufrnkisc

This is not surprising, given the heav

clayey soils that predominate in th

hilly area bordered by the Sopron an

Kszeg Mountains.

It is ideal for growing red-wine grape

In idyllic southern Burgenland (Sdbu

genland) with its landscapes of fores

and meadows lie vineyards slopin

down towards the Hungarian plai

They bear such famous names as Eise

berg and Rechnitzer Berg. By far th

smallest area with its own appellationBurgenland, it is known for red win

that are of pronounced minerality an

compactness as well as vivacio

whites.

I The outstanding wines from Burgenlands various denominated origins come

in a remarkable variety, ranging from elegant,full -bodied whites to velvety redsnot to mention the profundity of the sweet wines.Ph

oto:WeinBurgenland/JoachimLukan

14 | PANNONIA

BURGENLAND:

T HE WINE LANDForward-Looking and Rich in Tradition

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WINE REGION

PANNONIA |

and Nature

real Seewinkel begins on a line south ofGols and Frauenkirchen. Its western bor-der is Lake Neusiedl, while it is delimitedby the Hungarian border and the Han-sg Canal in the south and east, respec-tively. Kilometres of vineyards, onlyinfrequently interrupted by other crops,give the impression of a monoculture,

which is rare in the winegrowing regionsof Austria in general and Burgenland inparticular. Together with the salt pondsin Lake Neusiedl Nature Park these

vineyards at first seem somewhat mel-ancholy, but at second glance the scen-ery is stunning and serene. Botrytis rotregularly occurs in two out of three

years but sometimes not until relativelylate. It is essential for the production ofthe much sought-after sweet winesfrom Auslese to Trockenbeerenauslese.

A relatively novel development is theproduction of so-called Schilf(reed) orStroh (straw) wines: grapes free of noblerot are dried on reeds or straw until thenecessary concentration of sugar isreached. Herethe hand of man replacesthe hand of nature (freezing tempera-ture) that leads to Eiswein (ice wine).The mecca for the production of high-grade dessert wines is the area around

Illmitz, Apetlon and Podersdorf. All in all,the large water surface of Lake Neusiedlshapes the microclimatic conditionsof the area, evening out temperatureson the one hand while supplying a highlevel of humidity on the other.

The Neusiedlersee region does not,however, only consist of flat land.There are also the slopes of the so-called Wagram of the Parndorf Plate,

a ridge between Neusiedl am See, Goand Mnchhof. Compared with the ricblack soil of the Seewinkel, the arboasts a differentiated soil structure this shaped by loamy and sandy drifHere grow the most distinguished r

wines as well as fruity white ones. Othese slopes are found vineyards wisuch sonorous names as AltenberUngerberg, Salzberg and Gabarinz

which produce some of the best Austrired wines year after year. The actu

Parndorf Plate is a rather unspectaculwine plain. Slightly undulating at beit consists of sandy as well as gravelbedrock. By and large it produces lig

white wines and fruity, quite animatired ones.

The vineyards along the foot of thLeitha Mountains, at the north shore Lake Neusiedl, have experienced a cetain boom in recent years. They belonto the towns of Winden and Jois, whic surprisingly are part of thNeusiedlersee region proper rather ththe Neusiedlersee-Hgelland regioalthough topographically speakingthe latter would make more sense.

Over the past years, many top wingrowing estates, such as Josef Umathu

and Schlossweingut Halbturn, harecognized the high potential of thvineyards in this microcosm rich shale and limestone soils. They eithhave acquired existing vineyards herehave planted red-wine vines. This is onof the most promising areas for thdevelopment of first-rate red wines ancertainly one that well be hearing aboagain.

I

Idyllic LakeHoliday paradise for sun-worshippers and swimming fans: Lake Neusiedl.

I Lake Panorama:

Lake Neusiedl regulates the climate in the lakeside vineyards.

Photos:BurgenlandTourismus/RudolfBlaim,

Nationa

lparkNeusiedlerSeeSeewinkel

Neusiedlersee

Neusiedlersee

A Paradise of Wine

With almost 8000 hectares

of vineyards, the wine

region Neusiedlersee

(named after Lake Neu-

siedl) is Austrias second-largest wine-

growing area. Until the 1990s, about 80

per cent was used for white-wine pro-

duction, of which only a fraction was

dedicated to high-quality bottled wines.

Nowadays, the share of white-wine pro-

duction is only 60 per cent. Clearly,

winegrowers and consumers alike are

placing great hopes in the regions red-

wine resources. Burgenlands significance

as a major centre of dessert-wine

production is beyond dispute anyway,and this is unlikely to change in the fore-

seeable future.

While up until recently the wine-

growing regions of Lake Neusiedl and

Seewinkel were generally considered

interchangeable, on careful examination

such simplification is not really justified.

There is widespread agreement that the

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WINE REGION

PANNONIA | 1

from the best locations in the LeithaMountains enjoy a legendary reputa-tion, not only among Austrian wine-lovers but throughout the wine world.They combine fruit brilliance and den-

sity without becoming overpoweringlyopulent and have a sensitive structureand a certain mineral touch. The white

wines from the Leitha Mountains arealso nothing to be scoffed at; they com-bine attractive richness with crisp, fruityacidity. Here the vines of the Burgundyfamily, but also, for example, SauvignonBlanc, are highly successful. The vine-

yards around Donnerskirchen seem to

have become an enclave for Grner Velliner and Riesling. The winegrowintowns around Eisenstadt Donnerskichen, Purbach and St. Margarethenproduce spicy and elegant Blaufrnkisch and red-wine blends that tasquite different from their competitorfrom Rust and Mrbisch, which alocated somewhere in the middle of thtaste scale.

Lake Neusiedl, we come to the above-mentioned Leitha Mountain region tothe north, which rises to an altitude of370 metres and is composed of highlycarbonate sediments. Strung out like

pearls along this chain are such sono-rous-sounding winegrowing villagesand towns as Grosshflein, Kleinhflein,Eisenstadt, St. Georgen, Breitenbrunn,Donnerskirchen and Purbach. Thetowns of Winden and Jois, whic h are alsosituated at the foot of the Leitha Moun-tains, have for political reasons been designated part of the winegrowingregion Lake Neusiedl. The red wines

I The impressive slopes of the Leitha

Mountains produce great wines andhave given their name to the newHgelland (hill country) DAC.

Leithaberg DAC/Neusiedlersee-

Hgelland

18 | PANNONIA

Leithaberg DAC/Neusiedlersee-Hgelland

Wine-Lovers Trilogy

The traditional winegrowingtowns on the western shore ofLake Neusiedl and around theprovincial capital, Eisenstadt,

are the most important productioncentres of the Hgelland (hill country)

winegrowing region, which makes afairly uniform impression. The charac-ter of its wines is essentially shaped bytwo factors: firstly, by the prominent,almost 30-kilometre-long ridge of theLeitha Mountains, which continues tothe south in the Ruster Hgelland, andsecondly, by Lake Neusiedl, the largeststeppe lake in central Europe. The enor-

mous quantity of water stores the sunswarmth and provides high humidity. TheLeitha Mountains and Ruster Hgellandshield the winegrowing region fromharsh weather from the west and thenorth but leave it susceptible to Pan-nonian climatic influences from the eastand south. Characteristic of this regionare low levels of precipitation, hot sum-mers and long, mild autumn days. Evenalmond and fig trees thrive in thesealmost Mediterranean conditions.

In a sense, this blessed microclimateculminates in the free-town of Rust. Onlyabout half an hour by car from the south-ern edge of Vienna, the area stands onthree supporting pillars with respect to

wine. Firstly, the supple and voluminous

white wines, which have been unjustlyneglected in recent years but whichremain harmonious even in years thatelsewhere are said to be difficultbecause they produce wines of high acid-ity.Such was the case between 2004 and2008, for example. Secondly, the power-ful red wines of Burgenland continue tobe in high demand, and, finally, there isthe small but excellent range of sweet

wines from the area. Ruster Ausbruch isthe regions natural highlight and helpedthe citizens of Rust secure their towncharter from Emperor Leopold I in1681. Even today, the relatively rare

Ruster Ausbruchwines made mostlyfrom one of the white Pinot grapes butalso from such rarer varieties as Muscatand Furmint are among the mostsought-after sweet treats from Austria.Lets tarry a bit longer in the environs ofthe exceptionally picturesque town ofRust, the entire core of which has beendeclared a World Heritage Site, andponder on the neighbouring towns of

Oggau and Mrbisch as well. They arequite similar in soil structure and micro-climate and as a result produce just as

well-balanced vines in their vineyards asdoes Rust. The topsoil is dominated by

more or less calcareous layers, which canchange to loess or brown earth soils atthe foot of the slope and near the lake.Here and there, there is topsoil of

weathered shale (for instance aroundthe area of Schtzen am Gebirge at thenorthern edge of this area), which resultsin temperamental and energetic winesin a category and style of their own.

Leaving the southwestern corner of

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genland. This group may be consideredto be a trendsetter in the growing appre-ciation of native varieties. Today, morethan 55 per cent of the vineyards areplanted with Blaufrnkisch vines, a logicalresult of the 2005 declaration proclaim-ing this to be the first Austrian red-wineDAC. The fine reputation of Burgen-lands red wines especially the varie-tal Blaufrnkisch and the blends on aBlaufrnkisch basis has been estab-lished and promoted primarily by twodriving forces: firstly, by the pioneeringvision of strategists like Hans Igler,Engelbert Gesellmann and Anton Iby,and secondly, by the two powerfulco-operatives of growers in Horitschonand Neckenmarkt, which were in aposition to provide Blaufrnkisch winesin large quantities of high-quality.

All in all, Blaufrnkisch Country isa fairly uniform winegrowing region, and

yet there are some features that deservespecial attention. Year after year, therelatively steep vineyards of the Necken-markter Hochberg, some of which facedue south and have weathered shale atthe top, produce grapes with a particu-larly high sugar content. Especiallyheavy soils of mostly clay and marlcharacterize the gently hilly wine areaaround Horitschon, which limits thevineyards mentioned on its labels to

Hochcker, Kirchholz, Drrau andGfanger. They produce an especiallyintense Blaufrnkisch wine with dis-tinctive, peppery-cinnamon flavoursand a dense body.

The third noteworthy sub-region con-sists of the best vineyards of Deutsch-kreutz, including Goldberg, Hochberg,Siglos and Fabian. Their medium soilstructure produces especially elegant

WINE REGION

PANNONIA |

ry

and supple wines. Finally of note is thewinegr owing enclav e on the highplateau of Lutzmannsburg farther to the

south. Its deep and weathered loamysoils yield red wines that are full ofcharacter and sometimes even of earthyunconventionality. These wines bear acertain resemblance to the wines ofsouthern Burgenland.

The first Austrian red-wine appella-tion, Mittelburgenland, was created forthe central Burgenland beginning withthe 2005 vintage: a standard line that

should be consumed when still youngknown as Classic. The middle categomust specify the vineyard on the lab

The more powerful red wines are agfor at least part of their developmentnew oak barrels and are known undthe name Mittelburgenland ReserDAC. Each member of the so-call

Vitikult Group produces a mediumstrength Blaufrnkisch wine labelled Vitikult that is best consumed whstill young and is also subject to price limit.

I The dominant variety in the sea of grapes of central Burgenland is the

traditional red-wine varietal Blaufrnkisch.I Cycling in central Burgenland: The region is crisscrossed by many inviting

cycle paths through its vineyards.

Photo:SonnenlandMittelburgenland

Mittelburgenland DAC

20 | PANNONIA

Mittelburgenland DAC

Blaufrnkisch Count

In the region Mittelburgenland (cen-tral Burgenland) the sovereign reign

of the red-wine vines is unbroken,

and their share has increased year

after year since the end of World War II.

The only notable exceptions to this rule

are oaky Chardonnays and rare sweet

wines. At an earl y date in h istory, the

consistently deep, weathered and some-

times even extremely heavy soils at the

foot of the Sopron Mountains, alsocalled Brennberg Hill Country, were

recognized as an ideal basis for culti-

vating Blaufrnkisch & Company. The

area is favoured climatically: while it is

open to the warm Pannonian influences

of the east, it is shielded from the rough

continental climate by the Sopron

Mountains to the north, the Gnser

Highlands to the south and the Bucklige

Welt to the west. Lake Neusiedl is a mere10-kilometres away from Deutschkreutz

and has a certain regulatory effect on the

microclimate.

The winegrowers of Mittelburgen-

land are very proud of their red wines

and especially of their darling, Blaufrn-

kisch. They were showing their colours

as early as 1989, when they founded th e

Blaufrnkisch Association of Mittelbur- Photo:SonnenlandMittelburgenland

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WINE REGION

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uth

cannot be produced in large quantitiesand will therefore always be soughtafter, but the best-known names are by

now well-established in specialist shopsand wine stores. Thus, strictly speaking,the exceedingly commendable trip tothe hill country of southern Burgenlandis no longer necessary in order to ensurean appropriate supply of these spirited

wines. Finally, in the very south of theregion, near Heiligenbrunn, is the homeof the Uhudler. It is pressed from thegrape varietyVitis labrusca, a native of

North America that thus does not re-quire grafting. By the way, Uhudler is alsoa generic term for colourful, ungrafted

wines from vines with such onomato-poetic names as Noah, Othello, Isabella,Clinton and the like. It can beconsumed in its original form as Sturm(the Austrian term for fermentinggrape-must with a moderate alcohollevel) or as sparkling wine in the formof Uhudler-Frizzante or Uhudler -Sekt,

which makes for a pleasantly tangy,summer refreshment.

I Vineyards at Eisenberg, which has

one of the best soils for the up-and-coming viticulture of southern

Burgenland.

I Typical of southern Burgenland

are the picturesque Kellerstckl,thelovingly restored wine cellars that arenow used as charming holiday homes(left).

EisenbergDAC/Sdburgenland

22 | PANNONIA

Eisenberg DAC/Sdburgenland

Wine Idyll of the So

The second-smallest Austrian

winegrowing region after West-steiermark (Western Styria),this narrow winegrowing

region is small but excellent, and due toits bucolic landscape, it is rightly adver-tised as a wine idyll.The influences ofthe continental climate are more evidenthere than in the rest of Burgenland, asseen in a higher quantity of rainfall. ThePannonian influence from the Hungar-ian Plain in the southeast, however, isalso a factor that should not be under-estimated. Even though red and whitevines are produced in roughly equalquantities, Sdburgenland is mostlyfamous for its reds. Long-established

clans, such as the Krutzler, Krper-Faulhammer and Wachter-Wiesler fami-lies along with such up-and-comingvintners as Uwe Schiefer, Alfred Weberand Vinum Ferreum, embody testedtraditions and new optimism. Some ofthe best and most famous Austrian red

wines made mainly from the dominantgrape variety, Blaufrnkisch currentlycome from this wine idyll, an area that for

a long time seemed like a sleepy region.Although Sdburgenland is generally

relatively heterogeneous, there are threesmall winegrowing areas that are worthsingling out. In the area of the regionsmain town, Rechnitz, the vineyardsimmediately south of the highest peakof Burgenland, which at 884 metres alti-tude is rightly called a small mountain,do not grow much red wine, focussingrather on Welschriesling and PinotBlanc. The latter are comparable to theircounterparts in southeast Styria in theiranimated nature and crisp, fruity acidity.The single most important area is locatedright in the middle of southernBurgenland, where the elevations Eisen-

berg, Deutsch-Schtzner Weinberg andCsaterberg provide excellent prerequi-sites for remarkable red wines. The shalelayers of Eisenberg are marbled withveins of oxidized ore and have a ratherthick layer of loam. This provides theright conditions for red wines with anunmistakably energetic structure, char-acteristic truffle-peppery overtones andstrong mineral notes. In Burgenland

these conditions for making red wine arefound only here and in the hillyvineyards of Deutsch-Schtzen, where

the soils are generally somewhat deeperand more weathered and also containless iron. A spirited structure, comple-mented by notes of iron, distinguishesthese wines from those of Lutzmanns-burg and Horitschon in Mittelburgen-land, although the latter are somewhatsimilar in density and distinctiveness.Due to the small scale of local opera-tions, the red wines of Sdburgenland

Photos:WM

EgonMark(2)

GRAPE VARIETI

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in the hills around Rust, with tank vini-fication provided the acidity is not tooextreme producing results equal inquality to those achieved with careful

wood ageing. After all, several of the bestwood-aged white wines come fromChardonnay vineyards, with wine-growing operations such as Kollwentzand Velich coming to mind as examples.Like Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay issupremely well-suited to serving as anunobtrusive basis for white-wine blends

as well as for making a pure varietalTrockenbeerenauslese.

The latter, carefully aged in an oak bar-rel, is not to be equalled anywhere elsein Austria. Even when thus vinified, thisvarietys trademarks the exotic compo-nents of its aromas (pineapple, bananaand much more), its dense body and dis-tinctively structured acidity can usu-ally be recognized.

GRAPE VARIETI

Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder)

This grape variety, a rare one both inBurgenland and elsewhere, has little pri-mary fruit aroma and is usually morereminiscent of burnt sugar, cotton candyand caramel as well as red berries onoccasion. While it can be turned intopowerful, dry white wines that are some-times a bit lacking in supporting acid-ity, Pinot Gris also makes an excellentblending partner for its relatives PinotBlanc and Chardonnay, all the way up tothe highest Prdikatdesignations.

Sauvignon Blanc

Following its widely recognized suc-cess story in southern Styria, the Sauvi-gnon trend proceeded to spread to allother Austrian winegrowing regions,including the whole of Burgenland. Par-ticularly good results are to be obtainedin Burgenlands northern reaches,although the Sauvignon grape needs acertain minimum amount of rain andmust be harvested neither too early nortoo late. A premature harvestresults in fairly simplegreen wines suggestiveof stinging nettles and pep-per. These wines arenow quite justifiablyout. Harvestingtoo late results

in a heavy,overly alcoho-lic wine lacking inlively, fruity charm.The best Sauvignonsfrom northern Burgenlandusually have a nose of elder-berry, cassis and other darkberries; sometimes freshlime, anise and fennel notes

can also be detected. There should be nmore than a hint of husk-like undetones, and the wines acidity should hamonize well with its medium-strong powerful body.

Traminer

The Traminer, in its typical yellowhite, red andGewrz-(spice) varietiewith the distinction between the latttwo being quite indistinct, will always among Burgenlandsprotected minoities, even though it is capable of prducing quite pronounced aromas remniscent of roses, coconut and dried apcots. Occasionally, however, it ends ubeing so flowery and intense that som

wine connoisseurs consider it to excessively perfumed or eveoverpowering. Another important issuis getting the Traminers typically high acohol content and rather pronouncacidity to harmonize well with the aformentioned aromatic array. The light tanins and bitter notes so typical of th

Traminer do, howeveallow it to produce

more sturdy anstructured de

sert wine thma

PANNONIA |

of BurgenlandAndi Kollwentzon ChardonnayIn general,the Chardonnay

grape is relatively

unproblematic in terms of

soil and climate it grows

more or less everywhere,

and indifferent results are obtained primar-

ily in those cases where harvesting is done

solely with an eye to sugar content. Truly

mature Chardonnays that have passed

through malolactic fermentation with flying

colours are quite well-suited to being fin-

ished in oak.But even those Chardonnays

that are aged classically in stainless-steel

tanks need a high degree of ripeness and a

long period of ageing on fine lees in order

to produce an individual wine, one that

is faithful to the character of our Leitha

Mountain region,for example,although

ageing in large wooden barrels can also

introduce interesting aspects.

I Chardonnay

24 | PANNONIA

Grner Veltliner

It is still a relatively little-known factthat in Burgenland, as in the rest of Aus-tria, Grner Veltliner is the number-one

white grape variety in terms of areaunder vines. Although the majority ofthe wines produced from this grape con-tinue to be light wines that eating anddrinking establishments tend to serveby the glass, the past few years in partic-ular have seen more and more ofBurgenlands winemakers turn tothe green one (the Grnerin the namemeans green).

As vinified in Burgenland as well, thisleading Austrian variety has proved tobe highly satisfactory. The range of

wines produced from the Grner Veltlinergrape ranges from fresh summer wines

region or as an Ausbruch in Rust. Thismakes it an unbeatably subtle dessert

wine, well-supported by its lively acidityeven when the residual sugar content isextremely high.

Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder)

The unassuming aromas of the PinotBlanc, with its bouquet of stone fruits,orange peel and almonds (also reminis-cent of walnuts and cocoa when aged)can be found in all of Burgenlands wine-growing areas. Unexcelled, however, isthe Pinot Blancs ability to join in a har-monious blend as an equal partner toChardonnay or Grauburgunder (PinotGris). It also does well with gentle woodageing as long as the amount of new cask

wood used isnt excessive. Classicallystyled representatives of this variety canbe found above all in the lime-rich vine-

yards of the south-facing slopes of theLeitha Mountains, but in Gols as well thePinot Blanc both as a single varietaland as part of a blend plays a leadingrole among whites. It is also excellentlysuited to the production of Prdikat-quality wines, up to and including thehighest categories.

Chardonnay

With the rampant Chardonnitis ofthe early 1990s now having passed itszenith and begun to fade, it is finally pos-sible to view this grape variety with thenecessary distance. Even though theyare present in all of Burgenlands wine-growing areas, Chardonnay grapes prob-ably produce the most characteristicresults in the Leitha Mountain area and

THE PROVINCES WINES ARE made from a multitude of characteristic types of

white and red grapes.

W H I T E W I N E S

Burgenland Varieties

The Grape Varieties

AndreasLiegenfeld onWelschriesling

Throughout the entire

province of Burgenland,

from the south

to the north and from

Rechnitz to Gols,the classically vinifiedWelschriesling stands out by virtue of its

lively fruit aromas. But it should not be

vinified too opulently, and it is best enjoyed

young. In terms of marketing, it is sold

and enjoyed everywhere in Austria, for

example, among those connoisseurs who

prefer its piquant apple note to the Velt-

liners pepperiness.

that are best consumed young all theway up to spice-laden reserve-qualitywines with serious ageing potential.Since Grner Veltliner retains itscharacter in many different types of soil,it does well in the more lime-richareas along the slopes of the LeithaMountains as well as in the sandy soilsnear Lake Neusiedl, and even better inheavy, loess-laden soils. After years ofstagnating sales, this variety is cur-rently enjoying a renaissance. Alongsideclassic dry vinification, it is alsoexcellently suited to producing sweetervariants, such as Eiswein (made fromgrapes frozen on the vine).

Welschriesling

This grape variety is well known toconnoisseurs of Austrian wine as theuncontested number one in the south-ern province of Styria. In Burgenland itis primarily at home in the hills aroundLake Neusiedl and in areas near thelakes northern shores, as well as insouthern Burgenland in the area ofRechnitz. Its fresh, unconventional aro-matic complexity is at first reminiscent

of green apples, citrus fruits, currantsand gooseberries; also typical are itssmooth structure and pithy acidity,both of which predestine the Welschries-ling to being served as an apritif on ahot day or providing a straightforwardaccompaniment to simple fare. But the

Welschriesling can also take on a com-pletely different role when it is vinified asa Trockenbeerenauslesein the Seewinkel Ph

otos:WM,A

rminFaber

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Cabernet SauvignonIn the 1980s this trendsetter elsewhere

in Europe and overseas finally reachedBurgenland. Austrias best red-wine pro-ducers were quick to notice that it ripensfully here only in the best years, and onlythen does it unfold its familiar bouquetand taste of blackcurrants and black-berries accompanied by good volumeand rich tannins. In less-favourable

years it tends to be strangely pepperyand grassy, and for that reason severalproducers in Burgenland have eitherreduced or eliminated their plantings inCabernet Sauvignon. Without a doubt,it is at its best in blends with Blaufrn-kisch, Zweigelt or Merlot.

Merlot

Although it was first used largely as ajunior partner in blends with CabernetSauvignon, Merlot has undergone acertain renaissance in recent years.This is due in particular to the highdegree of maturity it reaches in Austria(sometimes rather suddenly) as well

as to the pleasant fact that it growswell even in heavy loess and loam.Its current popularity is probably

justified, for in the long term itwill most likely harmonize bet-ter with the rest of the Austrianred-wine varietals than doesCabernet Sauvignon, which wasinitially more widely planted.These days, strong, pure varietal

grasps the subtle character of this morelight-coloured but distinctively acidicred wine with its gentle bouquetof raspberries, blackheart cherries andalmonds and its ability to conjure upother rather strange associations, suchas underbrush, moss and mushrooms,making it something generally betterunderstood by the palate than by theintellect. All in all, the next few yearsshould see Burgenlands best red-winelocations producing some surprisesfrom this difficult grape variety.

St. Laurent

This native Austrian red-wine variety,of which unfortunately only one parent Pinot Noir is known, has beenmaking a much-deserved comeback forseveral years now, despite a number ofcharacteristics that make things difficultfor winegrowers, such as coulure (failureof grapes to develop after flowering),slow ripening and high sensitivity to rot.Its extremely seductive bouquet of cherryand plum notes is usually followed bysubdued, even subtle taste impressionsthat occasionally remind one of PinotNoir. Despite their rather delicate body,

many St. Laurent wines age surprisinglywell, making obvious their suitability foruse in blends with Pinot Noir, Zweigeltand Blaufrnkisch. And if looks are notdeceiving, St. Laurent would seem to beon the threshold of a golden era. In Bur-genland, it is the winegrowers in theLake Neusiedl region in particular whoare placing their bets on this sensitivered-wine grape.

Merlots are made in nearly all of Burgelands red-wine growing areas. For thmost part they have rather tempestuoaromas reminiscent of the leaves plants from the nightshade family; thescents are sometimes joined by impresions of black olives, pepper and liquoric

A typical role for Merlot is, of course,the classic Bordeaux blend with CabernSauvignon or Cabernet Franc, but it almakes a gentle, balanced partner for Blafrnkisch.

Syrah (Shiraz)

Due to the relative youth of Syraplantings, the jury is still out on this morecent arrival to Burgenlands red-wilandscape. In general, pure Syrah varital wines sometimes seem too neutrand bristly to be able to compete on aequal par with their role models from thsouth of France. On the other hansome experimental garage wines hamade quite a splash with their deespiciness and astounding substancmeaning that further developmenmay be awaited with interest. In ancase, Syrah is already being used quisuccessfully in several high-quality re

wine blends.

Gerhard Pittnaueron St. Laurent

I firmly focus my efforts

on St.Laurent.Along

with Blaufrnkisch,it is

the Austrian red-wine

grape with the biggest

potential for making truly great wine.

It is particularly well-suited to the

lighter soils on the eastern shores of

Lake Neusiedl.In good vintage years,it

reminds one a bit of Shiraz,and in les-ser years it is more akin to Pinot Noir.

Interestingly enough, it seems to be

more widely

recognized and esteemed abroad than

it is on the domestic Austrian market.

I Zweigelt

I Blaufrnkisch

PANNONIA |26 | PANNONIA

Blaufrnkisch

This grape variety, which was evidently

an early arrival in Austria, probably

takes its name from the ancient descrip-

tor Frnkisch (Franconian), which wasapplied to all high-quality varieties of

wine in co ntrast to the so-called Hun-nisch (Hunnish) varieties. It can be con-sidered a longstanding native of Bur-

genland and has meanwhile become

something of a poster child for the

boom in Austrian red wines. Its dis-

tinctive personality, which begins with

an unmistakable bouquet of black cher-

ries, cranberries, blackberries, cinna-

mon, etc., and continues in its medium-

strong to strong body with vibrant acid-

ity and medium-to-high tannin content,

has even managed to make quite a few

waves in the foreign specialist press.

Blaufrnkisch grapes ripen fairly late in

the season and therefore require very

good locations, although they can pro-

duce good results in a variety of soils,including loam subsoil, shale and lime.

They are relatively insensitive to the pre-

sence ofBotrytis cinera and well-suitedto ageing in oak casks, at le ast for a lim-

ited time. Blaufrnkisch does well in

blends with gentler partners such as

Zweigelt and St. Laurent but can also

harmonize quite pleasantly with Caber-

net and Merlot.

Zweigelt

The specific characteristics of this

Austrian hybrid of Blaufrnkisch

and St. Laurent usually tend more

towards the Blaufrnkisch side, but

with the wines from central Burgen-

land in particular, it is relatively easy

to confuse a Zweigelt with a Blaufrn-

kisch. Similarities to St. Laurent are lessfrequent; if present, they are reflected in

a sour-cherry flavour and a delicate full-

ness. This relative newcomer has been

producing notable results since the best

producers began strictly limiting the size

of their harvest. As long as the grapes are

fully ripe, they are well-suited to limited

wood ageing , and the y can also play a

leading role in red-wine blends with

Blaufrnkisch, Cabernet, St. Laurent, etc.

The section of the Wagram ridge near the

flat area known as the Parndorfer Platte,

with its centre near Gols, has established

a fine reputation for its premium-class,

red-wine blends with Zweigelt as the

dominant grape.

R E D W I N E Sother varieties, for which reason it isoften allowed to keep a bit of residual

sugar even in more modest-quality pro-

ducts. In the most successful cases, it

produces one of Austrias most ageable

white wines.

NeuburgerThis unassuming grape variety, which

sometimes has a bit of walnut and

dried fruit in its aroma, is acutely threat-

ened with extinction, although in Bur-genland, in particular, it has a poten-

tially broad range of uses, ranging from

medium-strong apritifs to high-quality

dessert wines.

Muskat-OttonelThis variety makes for great apritifs

with hints of cinnamon and nutmeg as

well as in the be st cases a touch of

lychee and kiwi, but it occasionally suf-

fers from its slightly low acidity and

should thus generally be enjoyed young.

This, of course, does not apply to Pr-dikat-quality wines made from thisincreasingly rare variety.

Gelber MuskatellerThe acidic texture of this grape is

significantly more tangy than that of

Muskat-Ottonel, which has somewhat

less substance. These characteristics

generally elevate it above the status of a

pure summer wine. Gelber Muskateller

can also produce wonderful dessert

wines with grapey fruit brilliance and

an edgy kick of acidity. Small doses of this

grape typically used to be added to the

sweet wines from Rust known as

Ruster Ausbruch.

Furmint

Furmint has always been the mostimportant grape for making Tokaji Asz,

a botrytized wine from the region of

Tokaj-Hegyalja in Hungary, and was an

important component of Ruster Aus-bruch as well. With the vintners in Rusthaving rescued it from extinction, it can

now once more be found here and

there in Ruster Ausbruch and alsosometimes as a dry wine.

Anton Iby onBlaufrnkisch

We absolutely mustrefrain from robbingBlaufrnkisch of itssoul in other words,Blaufrnkisch wines

should ideally taste like the g rapes

they are made from and not like themethods of vinification used.For thatreason, we aim to cultivate grapes witha fine, maturely structured acidity that

gives the wine a fresh and animatingquality.That is why only a third ofeven our top Blaufrnkisch wines areaged in new oak casks, and we havealso markedly reduced toasting of theinside of the barrels.

Birgit Braunsteinon ZweigeltTo my mind, this variety

has a special significance

in Austria because it was

developed here. Unfortu-

nately,its potential is still

somewhat underestimated.But with con-

sistent work in the vineyard strictly lim-

iting the harvest is essential and suitable

terroir,Zweigelt grapes can produce mul-

tifaceted, well-structured wines with

commensurate ageing potential.

Pinot Noir (Blauburgunder)

This diva among the internationallyprevalent red-wine grapes has always

had a presence in Burgenland, even if in

rather small amounts. These days the

reserved charms of Pinot Noir have been

finding ever-greater favour outside of

specialist circles; thus there has been a

strong tendency to expand plantings in

all of Burgenlands red-wine strong-

holds. Not every wine-lover immediately Photos:WM,A

rminFaber

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Historically, viticulture developed

around a distinctive terroir: the

special composition of the soils

is the greatest treasure of the Leithaberg

region. The controlled name of origin

Leithaberg DACwas introduced in 2009

to support local winegrowers in focusing

the style of their wines even more on

their origin.

Some 50 kilometres southeast of Vien-

na, a forested range of hills stretches

along the border between Lower Austria

and Burgenland. These are the Leitha

Mountains, and their foothills extending

between the villages of Jois, Mrbisch

am See and Mllendorf have markedly

influenced the ancient viticultural land-

scape. It seemed only logical to estab-

lish the controlled name of origin Lei-

thaberg DAC here, given the quality of the

terroir, which has been shaped by spe-

cial soil formations, the local climate and

the guiding hands of the winegrowers.

Characteristic SoilFormations

The locals have coined their own

names for the distinctive soil structures

of the region, which depending on the

bedrock include Ranker in the case of

metamorphic rock (mica schist and

gneiss) and Redzina in the case of shell

limestone (often called Leitha lime-stone here). The roots of the vines extend

down into these subsoils, usually

through a rather thin layer of humus

from which the rocks sometimes pro-

trude. The style of wine is subject to fairly

significant geological influences result-

ing from the different soils, which com-

bine with the Pannonian climate to cre-

ate obvious characteristics of origin.

Typicality Triumphs

Wines labell ed Leithabe rg DAC must

have a clearly recognizable signature.

Like all the other controlled names of

origin, Leithaberg DAC must meet the

general standards required of all high-

quality Austrian wines (Qualittsweine).

In addition, the approved varietals are

specified exactly: Grner Veltliner, Pinot

Blanc, Chardonnay and Neuburger for

Leithaberg DACwhite wines and Blau-

frnkisch for reds. The wines must be

clearly structured, elegant and complex.

Influenced by the warmth of Lake Neu-

siedl and the coolness of the Leitha

Mountains, these are exciting and fullwines with the minerality typical of their

origin (Leitha limestone and mica

schist). Heavy oak and opulent heavi-

ness are not permitted, nor is superficial

fruitiness, and the alcohol content must

be between 12.5% and 13.5%.

Finally, the wines of Leithaberg should

possess longevity with a high potential

for further development.

Leithaberg DAC Origin: Leithaberg

Maximum residual sugar content:2.5g

12.5% to 13.5% alcohol content

Finely knit, spicy and minerally,

little or no oak

LeithabergDACred wines:

Blaufrnkisch

May not be sold before 1 Septemberof the second year following the

harvest

LeithabergDACwhite wines:

Grner Veltliner, Pinot Blanc,

Chardonnay and Neuburger,eith er

as a pure varietal or as a blend

May not be sold before 1 September

of the year following the harvest

I The Leitha Mountains gave their

name to the DAC Leithaberg,whichproduces distinctive white and redwines full of character.

Leithaberg DA

Whites & Reds with Characte

Pho

to:EgonMark

For many decades the labelling of

high-quality Austrian wines

(Qualittsweine) focused on the

grape variety and the sugar con-

tent of the must. The origin of the wine

played a secondary role.

At the same time, however, labels

based on origin sometimes have a long

tradition in Burgenland, just as they do

in the rest of Austria. The name Ruster

Ausbruch, for example, has stood for

many centuries for one of the most

outstanding wines produced anywhere.

In addition, however, there are many

origins in Burgenland referring to a

28 | PANNONIA

IN THE EARLY YEARS OF THE NEW MILLENNIUM Austria began shifting from

a wine classification system based on the variety of grape as specified under

Germanic viticultural law to a system along Latin lines that is based on origin.

Burgenland meanwhile has three classic winegrowing areas with controlled

names of origin, which in Austria is called Districtus Austriae Controllatus or DAC.

DAC Districtus Austriae Controllatus

Around the year 2000, the prerequisites were created in Austria for abandoning the viticultural law that applies in Germany

and is thus called Germanic and adopting the system based on origins that is customary in many Latin countries. The

basic idea behind this change was that while grape varieties may be interchangeable, specific origins are not. As a

consequence, regional committees were formed in the individual winegrowing areas for the purpose of drawing up guide-

lines for the new controlled names of origin (DACs). These were to specify one or more varieties, styles and various minimum

standards as well as determine when the wine could be sold. The guidelines, however, also make it possible to specify a vari-

ety of other parameters, including the yield per hectare, the system of training the vines, viticultural processing methods, the

work in the cellar, maturation and minimum aging times.

Beginning in 2006 with the 2005 vintage, Mittelburgenland (central Burgenland), which specializes almost exclusively in

red wines made from the Blaufrnkisch grape, became Burgenlands first DAC area. In 2010 two other areas began usingappellations in marketing their wines: Eisenberg DAC in southern Burgenland produces red wines, while Leithaberg DAC in

the north and west as well as north of Lake Neusiedl makes both reds and whites. The DAC status is awarded by a commission

of experts only to those wines recognised as being typical of the area. This applies to all the DAC categories. You will find

more specific information about Burgenlands DACs on the following pages.

All of the other (from areas other than those covered by the respective DACs) are simply marketed under the designation

Burgenland.

specific region, place or vineyard that

wine aficionados asso ciate with a v ery

particular type of wine or style.

These wines were almost always made

from one or a handful of varieties typi-

cal of the region (very sweet wines

being an exception), that have proved

over many years to be particularly well-

suited to cultivation in the respective

area. In addition, of course, there were

also traditions concerning the manner

of growing and processing the grapes as

well as storing the wine, and these, too,

had a significant influence on the

respective style.

A Focus on Origin

Photo:So

nnenlandMittelburgenland

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With the addition of EisenbergDAC, Burgenland got its thirdcontrolled name of origin.

This DAC focuses exclusively on the clas-sic red-wine varietal Blaufrnkisch.Named for a historical vineyard, theappellation is synonymous with minerally

wines of pronounced character.The area authorized to use the Eisen-

berg appellation lies in the south ofBurgenland, close to the border between

Austria and Hungary and along thePinka River, which crosses the borderseveral times.

Typical of the geography are gentle,

sometimes forested hills where vines aregrown on south and southeast-facingslopes.

At the centre of this area is the his-toric Weinberg, which gave its name tothe most recently created DAC. It shouldbe mentioned in this context that Eisen-berg DAC was the first appellation toregain its former name, which was usedofficially into the 1980s.

Unmistakable Terroir

While the Eisenberg DAC is comprisedof all of southern Burgenland, with the dis-tricts of Oberwart, Gssing andJennersdorf, viticulture is limited almostexclusively to the eastern parts of the area.Only about 150 hectares are planted withBlaufrnkisch vines, making the EisenbergDAC Burgenlands smallest controlledname of origin by a wide margin. The Blau-frnkisch wines grown here have alwaysbeen known for their pronounced andunique style, the product of a combinationof the climate and, in particular, the soil:

the terroir. Although the DAC lies in thesouth of the province, the climate issomewhat cooler than in the north. Inaddition, the greater distance from LakeNeusiedl means that the latter has almostno influence in regulating temperatures.The soils of the appellation are mostlyloamy and often very rich in minerals,especially iron (Eisen), which contributesto the special character of the wines.

Eisenberg DA

Minerally Reds

Classic and ReserveOnly the Blaufrnkisch grape may b

used in making wines that bear Eiseberg as their controlled name of origiThey are required to be typical of tharea and variety and must be fruity, mierally and spicy. Within the DAC theare two categories. In wines labelledEisenberg DAC (with no additionspecification), fruit and spice predomnate. These wines must be without annoticeable oak and may not be sobefore the September following the havest year. DAC wines with the addtional specification Reserve are mopowerful and must have the same flvours and notes typical of the area anvariety. Wines of this category are agin wooden barrels. Because aging potetial is demanded of Reserve wines, thmay not be sold before 1 March of thsecond year following the harvest.

Eisenberg DAC Blaufrnkisch is the only variety

permitted

Origin: Eisenberg

Maximum residual sugar content:4g/l

EisenbergDAC:

Fruity,minerally,spicy

Little or no oak

12.5% to 13% alcohol content

May not be sold before 1 Sept embe

following the harvest yearNatural cork or screw-top

EisenbergDACReserve:

Minerally, spicy,power ful

Aged in traditional wooden barrels

At least 13% alcohol content

May not be sold before 1 March of th

second year following the harvest

Only natural cork

I As one of the historical vineyards of southern Burgenland, Eisenberg is known

for the particularly high iron content of its soil.

Photo:HerbertEberhart

30 | PANNONIA

Mittelburgenland DAC

Distinctive Blaufrnkisch

Mittelburgenland DAC

Blaufrnkisch is the only varietypermittedOrigin: Mittelburgenland (central

Burgenland)

Maximum residual sugar content2.5g/l

MittelburgenlandDAC:Fruity,spicy

Little or no noticeable oak12.5% to 13% alcohol content

May not be sold before 1 August of

the year following the harvest

MittelburgenlandDACfrom a specified

vineyard:fruity, spicy,powerful

Aged in traditional wooden barrels,

slight oak-touch permitted,13% to13.5% alcohol content

May not be sold before 1 October of

the year following the harvest

MittelburgenlandDACReserve:

Fruity, spicy, powerful

Aged in wooden barrels, noticeableto dominant woodiness permitted

At least 13% alcohol con tent

May not be sold before 1 March of thesecond year following the harvest

Central Burgenland (Mittelbur-genland) was Austrias first DACregion to focus its attention on

red wine. It has just the right conditionsfor growing the Blaufrnkisch grape,

Austrias impressive home-grown vari-etal in red. Thanks to the DACsystem, these wines will continue togrow in reputation and character in thecoming years.

As the name Mittelburgenland sug-gests, the DAC region extends acrosscentral Burgenland to the south of LakeNeusiedl, from which it is separated bya tongue of land on Hungarian territo-ry. This is one of Austrias great centresof red-wine cultivation. Here in thegently rolling vineyards of central Bur-genland, the leading role is played by thered-grape variety Blaufrnkisch. Thearea offers highly favourable topogra-phic and climatic prerequisites along

with deep soils and weather influencedby the Pannonian plains: in short, idealconditions for growing the kinds of fullymature and expressive red wines that arecausing a sensation internationally.

A Clear Message:

One DAC, One Variety

Four wine-growing communities setthe tone there: Deutschkreutz, Horit-

schon, Lutzmannburg and Necken-markt. In keeping with the DAC conceptof defining a specific origin and terroir,the soils in these four communities areall quite similar. Predominant in centralBurgenland are deep and heavy clayeysoils with a correspondingly high capac-ity to retain water. In the prevailing

warm, dry climate this is truly a blessing.All in all, the conditions here are ideal

for growing the Blaufrnkisch grapethat is the areas classic, typical varietal.

The Three DAC Pillars

Only red wines that are made from

Blaufrnkisch grapes and are typical ofthe region are permitted to bear theappellation Mittelburgenland DAC onthe label. There are three categories inthe DAC system of Mittelburgenland,and they also vary in alcoholic content.The term Classic denotes Blaufrn-kisch wines that are pronouncedly fruityand have been matured in traditionallarge wooden barrels or in a steel tanks.

The next higher category of Mittelbur-genland DAC bears the name of thespecific vineyard site. These wines arecharacterised by their powerful Blau-frnkisch style. They have been maturedin used barrels and have a slightly woodynote. At the top of the quality pyramidare wines designated as Reserve themost full-bodied and powerful Blaufrn-kisch wines. They may be matured inlarge used wooden barrels or in smallernew ones.

I The heavy clayey soils of the DAC

Mittelburgenland provide idea l grow-ing conditions for the classic red-winevarietal Blaufrnkisch.

Photo:EgonMark

SWEET WIN

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1 Martin Pasler,the new sweet-wine star

from Jois,has the last laugh when it comes

to outstanding quality.

2 Gerhard Krachers are among the most

renowned of Austrian Prdikat wines.

3 The two newcomers (from l.) Werner Ring-

hofer and Harald Pairits produce prime

vintages.

4 Heidi Schrck,the grande dame of Ruster

Ausbruch,enjoying a glass of it.

5 New sweet-wine talent from Illmitz:

Christian Tschida is an uncompromising

quality fanatic.

6 Schilfwein pioneer and marketing geniusWilli Opitz has his grapes well in hand.

7 All in the family in Gols:Hans Nittnaus

and son Andreas on a quality-control

round.

8 Heinz Velichssweetshelp make him one

of Burgenlands most consistently out-

standing vintners.

1

3

5 6

7 8

4

2

Fotos:1WeingutPasler

,2Man

fredK

lime

k,3

DieWinzerei,4WeingutSchrck

,5WeingutTsc

hida

,6WeingutOpitz,7SteveHaider

,8WeingutVe

lich

,

32 | PANNONIA

Sweet wines have a centuries-longtradition in Burgenland. Apartfrom historical documentationof aTrockenbeerenausleseknown

as the Luther wine from Donners-kirchen dating from 1526, there are alsodetailed records beginning in theseventeenth century ofAusbruchwines

(made from botrytized grapes) beingproduced in many communities that

were at that time Hungarian and are nowpart of Burgenland. The Pannoniansweet wines encompass a correspond-ingly mature, rich palette of varioustypes characterized by their density ofmust, varietal and ageing process as wellas by the ratio of residual sugar to alco-hol of the respective wine.

The base of the pyramid of Prdikatwines is formed bySptleseandAuslesewines that display little effect of thenoble rot Botrytis cinerea but are attrac-tive rather for their fruit and theirvarietal character. Most of the top pro-ducers of sweet wines have began to

refocus their attention on this category and rightly so: aromatic varieties likeSmling and Muskat-Ottonel are anattractive complement to such classicsas Welschriesling and the Burgundytypes. Outstanding quality and a remark-able selection are offered by well-known

wine estates all around Lake Neusiedl,such as the Tschida familys Angerhof inIllmitz, the up-and-coming winegrowers

Hans and Christine Nittnaus in Gols andvenerable Rust wine estates like Feiler-

Artinger and Weingut Tremmel. The lat-ter is also one of the vintners with a pas-sion for a rare varietal peculiar to Rust,the Furmint, which has been savedfrom extinction through the commit-ment of fellow winegrowers like Georg

Seiler and Michael Wenzel. The lattersfather, Robert, was primarily responsi-ble for the renaissance of this tradi-tional varietal.

Which brings us to the highest levelsof Prdikatwines, Beerenauslese andTrockenbeerenauslese. One of the best-known representatives of these wines is,of course, Ruster Ausbruch, which is cul-tivated in an exemplary manner byeminent local vintners such as Schandl,Heidi Schrck and the Triebaumer fam-ily. Trockenbeerenauslesewines areaccorded particular respect in Burgen-land, and they are characterized by acorrespondingly wide range of varietalsand styles. In making Trockenbeerenaus-

lesewines, it is not only the Chardonnaysand Welschrieslings that shine; thegrape varieties known in Austria asSchmeckerte(tasty), such as Traminer,Scheurebe (Smling) and SauvignonBlanc, can also place their great richnessand aromatic complexity on full display.

Vintners with a mastery of the intricateart of making sweet wines employ notonly the classic ageing process in steel

tanks but also attain outstanding resultsthrough the use of oak barrels.

The wine-growing communities of theso-called Seewinkel the strip of land onthe eastern shore of Lake Neusiedlextending south to the Hungarianborder have an especially high concen-tration of top producers of sweet wines.

The undisputed kings of sweet,Kracher, Angerhof-Tschida and Velich,have been joined in recent years by newtop-flight vintners, such as ChristianTschida and the Haider family fromIllmitz, Podersdorfs Josef Lentsch andthe Steindorfer family in Apetlon.

Speciality wines such as Eiswein(produced from grapes that have beenfrozen while still on the vine) and Schilf-wein (made from grapes that aretraditionally dried on Schilf, or reeds, inthe sun to concentrate their flavour) area particular focus of attention in thisregion. Specialists like Helmut Lang havebecome internationally renowned fortheir ice wines, as have fellow Seewin-

kel vintners such as Willi Opitz and Ger-hard Nekowitsch for their wines madefrom naturally dried grapes. But on theopposite shore of Lake Neusiedl, such vil-lages as Weiden and Jois can also boast along tradition of making fine sweet wi nes,and Martin Pasler and Weingut Hpler areonly two of the numerous vintners whohave turned their passion for these typesof wine into a remarkable success story.

Treasures of Burgenland

Sweet DelightsTHE WID E VAR IE TY OF STYLES and the

outstanding quality of this Pannonian

Gold are unrivalled anywhere in the world.

Photos:WeinBurgenland,W

eingutAngerhof

WINEGROWE

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PANNONIA |

in order to help our friends, and anyone

else who is interested, to understand the

wines of Burgenland, says Christian

Tschida, who founded the association

together with his vintner colleague

Gerhard Kracher and other like-minded

winegrowers.

The declared goal of Vinum Rosalia is

to improve the quality of wines from the

Rosalia Mountain area and put them in

the spotlight for wine-lovers by sharing

the members experience as winemakers

with one another and tasting each

others products. Among the famous

members of the group is DomainePttelsdorf.

The small but very fine wine regio n of

southern Burgenland has also estab-

lished a strong and effective vintners

association called the Southern Burgen-

land Wine Idyll. Deutsch Schtzen

Eisenberg, in particular, has great his-

torical significance as far as local wines

are concerned and joins Deutsch Scht-

zen Weinberg in functioning as a viti-

cultural focal point for the typical local

vintages.

Cercle Ruster Ausbruch is a sweet ex-

ception among the winegrowers asso-

ciations. Founded in 1991, it was the

worlds first consortium of producers of

sweet dessert wines. Top local vintners,

including Feiler-Artinger, Heidi Schrck

and Michael Wenzel, have jointly drawn

up a charter in which they pledge to con-

tinue the centuries-old traditions of

Ruster Ausbruch.

Great Expectations

The vintners associations of Burgen-

land have made significant contributions

to maintaining and improving the qual-

ity of the provinces wines. Working

together, they have developed and pre-

served wine styles that emphasise the

individual terroir, thus becoming cata-lysts in improving the quality of wines

throughout Burgenland.

1 Cercle Ruster Ausbruch closelymonitors the style and quality ofthe Gold of Rust.

2 The Vitikult group of vintners arecommitted to making fineBlaufrnkisch wines.

3 Top wines from southern Burgen-land are made by the vintners ofDeutsch Schtzen.

4 The members of the group RWBare among the best vintners inBurgenland.

5 On a successful course for manyyears now:Do nnerskirchen WineQuartet members (l.to r.) Hans

Neumayer, Josef Bayer, Leo Som-mer and Andreas Liegenfeld.

6 The Pannobile vintners producetop-quality wines at Wogenrainin Gols.

3 4

5 6

Photos:1CercleRusterAusbruch,2VitikultRot-Wein-Kunst,3Muik,4rwbbystevehaider.com,5Weinquartett,6PannobileOEG

34 | PANNONIA

The trend