pga introduction
TRANSCRIPT
γ-PGASuper Moisturizer for Skin and Body
What is γ-PGA?Structure of γ-PGA
Originally discovered in the marine jellyfish, γ-PGA helps the jellyfish to store water in its fragile tissue and therefore it would not dehydrate in salty sea water.
Poly-γ-glutamate (γ-PGA) is a kind of polypeptide in which glutamate is polymerized via γ-amide linkages.
How?Today, γ-PGA can be gained from a beloved traditional Japanese food 'natto', the fermented soybeans. It can also be biosynthesis from L-glutamic acid using the microbe known as Bacillus Subtilis.
Natto
Bacillus subtilis
Large-scale production Sample of γ-PGA
Applications
medicine
plant regulationcosmetics
food additives
-PGA
envir
onment
protectio
n
Theory
• When applied on the skin, γ-PGA can increase the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in skin*. NMF is composed of Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid ( PCA ) , Lactic acid , Urocanic acid and some other amino acid compositions , which can enhance the skin moisturizing ability from inside , while hyaluronic acid (HA) can not realize the function
* γ-PGA is currently known as the only one moisturizing ingredient which can increase NMF
Effectively Increasing NMF in Inner Skin
Whenγ-PGA used, Keratinocyte expansion so that pores can be constringed and make the skin smooth and soft.
γ-PGA can lock the moisture in inner skin by promoting the growth of fibroblast and increasing the content of NMF in horn cells.
Sustained release delivery
Persistent Moisturizing
Inhibiting melanin
Persistent Moisturizing
•Better than HA and Collagen •Supply the skin moistureAgainst long time drying environment•Restore skin elasticity. smooth fine lines caused by dehydration
Enhance skin health•Promote the skin fiber cell growth•Increasing the content of natural moisturizing factor in skin cutin layer•Balance the skin pH value•Protect skin from external environment pollutants and bacteria infection
Increase the skin absorption of the maintenance component
Make skin white
Make skin healthy
The registration name of γ-PGA in Japan is Natto gum .The number of cosmetics is EINECS NO.310-127-6. γ-PGA is also called botanic collagen and Canada FDA allows it applied in cosmetics and personal care products , the number is 9079-0201 NATTO GUM.
γ-PGAFunction in Cosmetics
Skin situation of moisture loss after the use of moisturizing lotion
time:minute time:minute
Using effect of normal skin Using effect of dry skin
*The data come from Department of Cosmetic Science, Providence University, Taiwan
NO
moisture loss
moisture loss
NO
Compartion of γ-PGA、 hyaluronic acid (HA) and collagen on water holding capacity and elasticity of the skin
γ-PGA has a better ability and larger capacity to hold water compared with the widely advertised HA and stays more elastic than the commonly-known collagen.
*Data come from: Japan ICHIMARU company
Comparison of effect on skin irritation between γ-PGA, hyaluronic acid and collagen
The compound of γ-PGA (HM) and γ-PGA (LM) has better moisturizing efficacy. γ-PGA (HM) can form a protective film on the surface of skin to prevent loss of moisture. Meanwhile,γ-PGA (LM) can nourish skin to deep layer by locking more moisture and nutrients. As shown in Fig. A, adding 3%o of compound γ-PGA HM and at a ratio of 1: 1 can enhance the the moisturizing effect and synergistically improve the effect of active ingredients in facial cream. Fig. B shows γ-PGA (HM) can effectively improve skin humidity and elasticity.
Another comparison data of effect on skin irritation between γ-PGA, hyaluronic acid and collagen
Inhibiting the formation of melanin , its whitening effect is 50% of vitamin C
Whiten the skin
sample 0.5%γ-PGA(Na+, HM)
0.5% γ-PGA(Na+, LM) 1% kojic acid 1% VC
Melanin inhibiting rate ( % ) 31.5 51.5 99.8 98.3
Safety Mild and Safe Irritant Relapse
Stability UV-resistant Broken and invalid under UV or oxidants
γ-PGA can also whiten skin by controlling melanin synthesis to prevent and reduce eckles.Ultraviolet irradiation is the main incentive of tyrosinase, which in tum induces the formation of Melanin. This table illustrates the inhibition effect of γ-PGA, Kojic acid and Vc on tyrosinase. As it shows, γ-PGA, either HM gamma PGA (0.5%) or LM gamma PGA (0.5%) can effectively inhibit the formation of melanin. Meanwhile, γ-PGA can form a film upon surface of skin which fences out ultraviolet.
Item
Essence Lotion Body Wash Soap
with 0.5%PGA
WithoutPGA
with 1%PGA
without PGA
with 0.8%PGA
WithoutPGA
with 1%PGA
WithoutPGA
IncreasingSmoothness
13/15 5/15 10/10 2/10 8/10 3/10 8/10 5/10
IncreasingElasticity 10/15 5/15 7/10 2/10 7/10 4/10 8/10 3/10
WhiteningEffect 5/10 1/15 4/10 0/10 8/10 4/10 4/10 2/10
Irritative 0/15 3/15 0/10 0/10 1/10 3/10 2/10 2/10
Long LastingMoisturizing 11/15 5/15 9/10 6/10 10/10 3/10 9/10 4/10
Evaluation of cosmetics and personal care formula containing PGA
Notes: 13/15 is number of person positively reacted/number of person tested
PGA has excellent compatibility in non-ionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants. It is a perfect ingredient for cream, essence, astringent, face mask, eye gel, sun cream, shampoo, body wash, lotion, hairstyle formula and so on.
Make the skinhealthy Promote the growth of fibroblast, keep the skin healthy
Cell Layer Density
SampleTotal number of cellls whitin monoer( ×104)
1# 2# 3# Mean ( n=3)
Control 3.9±0.3 6.7±0.2 4.6±0.3 5.1±1.5
Test Extrract, with 1% PGA (Na+ form),LM 9.6±0.4 7.7±0.2 7.6±0.6 8.3±1.1
Comparison of the effectiveness of PGA, HA and Collagen in cosmetics
γ–PGA Sodium Hyaluronate Collagen protein
Origin Non-Animal(Bacteria fermentation)
non-animal sources(Bacteria fermentation)
or animal sources(crest)animal sources
(Pigs, cows or sheep)Accessory No Endotoxin With Endotoxin Animal AllergenMonomer Single amino acid Disaccharide derivatives glycine, proline and
hydroxyprolineAnti-microbial ↗ → ↘
Natural moisturizing ablility ↗ ↘ ↘
Hydrophilicity +++ ++ +Elasticity +++ ++ +
Maintain skin pH +++ ++ +Inducing the skin‘s
N.M.F. +++ - -pH, thermo-stability Most Stable Stable Fair
Touching Feeling Smooth , soft not oily Slight stick Slight stickTEWL ↘ → →
Potential applications ofγ-PGA andγ-PGA Hydrogel for cosmetic use
Active component for lasting moisturizing and resistance to dry conditions of human skin
Increasing the elasticity of human skin and keeping it tight and smooth
Inhibiting the formation of melanin remarkably Keeping pH balance of human skin Forming a slow-release delivery system and therefore
improving the absorption capacity of nutrients in cosmetics Enhancing color fastness after hair dying Reducing split ends and leaving hair soft, glossy and
noticeably strong
Conclusion
1. moisture distillate Recommend 0.8-1.0% dosage in aqueous solution. Take 1% as an
example ,weigh 1g cosmetic grade PGA , adding some water at normal temperature, stand and swelling about 30 min after stirring to dissolve. The action should be quickly to avoid the product absorb moisture . The essence can be used as the mask liquid, and also can be used for daily moisturizing. The essence has a relatively short shelf life, so it need to add preservatives if stored for a long time.
2. The lotion formulations PGA can be mixed with HA , and reduce the skin greasy caused
by HA while moisturizing . It can be used in formula of fresh type product, the amount of PGA in the general formula is 0.4-0.6%.
Use of PGA
Products/Brands which contains PGA...
• Sheseido:Bio-Performance Super Restoring Cream• Clinique:Derma white brightening moisture cream • Dr.PGA:Whitening and moisturizing series• BRAPHY: γ-PGA Red Wine Mask • Dior:Prestige Exquisite Lotion• Mentholatum• Vivan Queen• NOEVIR• Laneige• Kose• DHC• ......