Welcome!DOG WALKER APPRENTICESHIP PROGRAM

To ensure the safety of all dogs are in the care of professional dog walkers.

To help dog walkers run ethical, honest and responsible businesses.

To encourage our students to learn as much as they can about dog behavior.

To ensure dogs are treated humanely.To discourage the use of outdated training

techniques and punishment training.To encourage respect and community between

professional walkers and the public.To make dog walking enjoyable for dogs and humans

alike!

OUR MISSION

Lecture Topics SF Professional Dog Walking Laws and Regulations Vehicle Safety and Transportation Appropriate Walking Equipment Learning Theory Key Training Terms for Dog Walking Canine Body Language and Communication Dog Fights Pack Dynamics and Park Etiquette Client Communication Examples Business Coaching with Veronica Boutelle Reference and Resource Index

WELCOME TO TOP DOG SF!

What You Need to Know as a Professional Dog Walker

SAN FRANCISCO LAWS AND

REGULATIONS

No more than 8 dogs per packOne leash per dog (less than 8’ long)Dog Tags (rabies & phone #)Carry a phone Poop bags (and pick up poop)First Aid Kit in carSafe vehicle with water and a non-skid surface Educational requirement (check!) SF Business licenseDrinking waterDog Walking Permit if walking more than 4 dogs at a

time1 million dollar liability insurance Knowing which SF areas and parks are on/off leash

THE LAW: CCSF HEALTH CODE SECTION

3900

Keep the dogs safe- know the behaviors of the dogs in your care

Be aware - keep eyes and ears open Be defensive Pet First Aid Certifi ed and fi rst aid kit with muzzle available Continuing education Network (without standing around chatting!) Exercise the dogs Be nice, polite and professional AAA or other road side assistance Program your phone with emergency numbers

ACC, emergency vets, SF Park and Rec Police, your client’s numbers and other walker’s numbers

Understand the environment Hazards: cliff s, poison oak, horses, other dogs

THE OTHER IMPORTANT STUFF

Getting both you and the dogs from Point A to B safely

VEHICLE SAFETY AND

TRANSPORTATION

There are pros and cons to all of them!!!!

WHAT TYPE OF VEHICLE?

Honda Element

Ford Van

Ford Transit

Toyota Truck

VEHICLE EXAMPLES

Jeep Cherokee

Volvo Station Wagon

Mini Van

Chevy Astro Van

AND MORE VEHICLES

Be driven by a person with a valid CA licenseBe registered and insuredHave a non skid surfaceBe well ventilatedBe enclosed (camper shell on trucks)Have screens on camper shell windowsHave a barrier allowing separation of dogs

and driverContain first aid kit with emergency muzzleContain ample drinking water and bowlsBe safe and roadworthy!

ALL VEHICLES MUST:

Contain some (at least 1) secured cratesBe cleaned regularlyHave cleaning supplies availableContain a first aid kit for humans and

dogsHave ample supply of poop bagsHave a phone chargerHave a supply of basic tools (jack, cables)

or roadside assistanceEmergency hide a key or AAA

VEHICLES SHOULD:

The good, the bad and the ugly

DOG WALKING EQUIPMENT

Martingale collar with I.D. tags

Non pull harness Easy Walk or Sensation harness

Nylon leashes

Head collars Halti or Gentle Leaders

Long lines

Bait bags

Clickers

Basket muzzle

Fight Spray

THE GOOD

Flat buckle collars

Ineffective Harness

Flexi-leash

Couplers

THE BAD (OR NOT SO GOOD)

Choke chains

Prong collars

E collars

Electronic leash

Citronella Collar

Nylon Muzzles Useful for emergencies only

THE UGLY – AND THE SIDE EFFECTS

How many times do I have to tell you Chance?! There are always treats in the Kong!

REWARDS

Natural balance

Cookies

Cheese and cheese whiz

Dry liver

Baby food

Dry chicken

Peanut butter

Left overs

TREATS- DIFFERS FOR EACH DOG

Low Value Treats Dry Biscuits Kibble

High Value Treats Baby Food Hot Dogs Cheese Leftovers Dehydrated Chicken Hearts and other gross things dogs

love

THE HIERARCHY OF DOG TREATS

Squeaker Recall

Tennis balls

Chuck-it balls

Chuck-it

Kong

Pebbles

Sticks

Water

TOYS (AND THINGS TO GUARD!)

INTRODUCTION TO LEARNING

THEORY

Think leverage, not dominance.The wolf dominance study this theory is based from

has been admittedly incorrect by the researchers themselves over the misuse of canine social interactions and the justifi cation for the use of force based methods.

Social hierarchy is contextual and infl ux constantly. It is not about temperament.

Letting go of this concept can help you understand what the dog is doing and not doing and how to do your walks safely and to have fun.

RECONSIDER THE DOMINANCE MODEL IN TRAINING

CROSS OVER TRAINING

DOGS LEARN IN TWO WAYS

By “Association” or Classical Conditioning Especially helpful to understand when dealing with phobias/

fear/ aggression.

By “Consequence” Operant Conditioning Future probability of behavior is affected by its

consequences Quadrants and learning theory

CLASSICAL CONDITIONINGPAVOLVIAN CONDIRTIONING

A reinforcer, whether negative or positive, causes the behavior to be more likely to occur.

When two events occur in succession, animals learn to anticipate the second one. This is involuntary and does not require a consequence, only the two events.

Dogs learn by association. They learn anything that predicts something safe or dangerous for them, and/ or something pleasant or unpleasant.

Classical conditioning is involuntary and does not require a consequence. I.e.; if a dog is upset.

DEFINITION OF CLASSICAL CONDITIONING

OPERANT CONDITIONINGLEARNING BY CONSEQUENCE

OPERANT CONDITIONING AND TRAINING

Operant conditioning, theorized by psychologist B.F. Skinner, is the basis for all science based animal training.

Animals seek reinforcement and avoid punishments.

Dogs learn through consequence.

“Dogs do what works.”

B.F. Skinner. March 20, 1904- August 18, 1990

B.F. SKINNER EXPERIMENT

Adapted from Image:Boite skinner.jpeg

LEARNING THEORYTHE FOUR QUADRANTS

POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT(R+)

A stimulus is provided contingent on the behavior which leads to an increase in that behavior.

Animals will work to attain a reward by choosing a behavior that results in something essential or enjoyable.

POSITIVE PUNISHMENT(P+)

A stimulus is provided contingent on the behavior which leads to a decrease in future behavior.

An animal will work to avoid a punishment.

An animal is likely to do a behavior resulting in something painful, threatening or unpleasant.

NEGATIVE REINFORCEMENT (R-)

A stimulus is removed contingent on the behavior which leads to an increase in behavior in the future.

Animals will work to attain relief.

An animal is more likely to chose a behavior that avoids something painful or unpleasant.

www.coolcartooning.com

NEGATIVE PUNISHMENT- PERSEVERANCE! (P-)

The removal of reinforcement or the opportunity to earn reinforcement. The dog is likely to chose a behavior to avoid a penalty or loss of access to something essential or enjoyable.

Dog behavior examples for this would be:- Barking- Jumpy, mouthy, rudeness- Impulse control- Dog to dog bullying

Human behavior examples are:- A parking ticket- Losing yardage in a football game- Penalty box in a hockey game

PUNISHMENT AND REINFORCEMENTLEASH WALKING

By artist Lili Chin

REWARDS AND REINFORCEMENTS

Pay attention to what you reward and reinforce! You will get more of it!

Use life rewards: opening door for a walk, throwing a ball, free play with dog pals.

Behaviors that are ignored will decrease.

Remove rewards for behavior you don’t like.

Be consistent.

DOGS DO WHAT WORKS- REWARD AMPLY!

HOW DOGS SEE THE WORLD

What is safe/good for me (Classical Conditioning).

What works and what doesn’t work (Operant Conditioning).

It is important to recognize what you can and can not do in a pack. If training is needed, it is best to refer out to a professional for the well being of the individual dog, your pack, and the enjoyment of your job.

Dogs change and mature over time (especially when they hit sexual maturity at the age of 2) and sometimes those dogs are not a great fi t for off leash walks anymore.

WHEN IT IS TOO MUCH

SUMMARY

Dogs learn by association (CC) and consequence (OC).

Dogs see the world as “what is safe/good for me” and what works and what does not.

Operant conditioning is the learning theory that is the basis for animal training.

By manipulating consequences, we can shape the animal’s behavior.

CLICKER TRAINING DEMO! Using a clicker as a conditioned reinforcer.

As it applies to dog walking

KEY TRAINING TERMS

Extinction occurs when a behavior that has been previously reinforced is no longer reinforced. The result is that the behavior no longer occurs.

Extinction burst! An increase in intensity, duration or frequency of a behavior that is not reinforced during extinction.

Spontaneous recovery occurs when a behavior reappears following extinction

WHAT TO EXPECT WITH R+ AND R-

Flooding – sink or swim in dog walking!

Habituation- animals learn to react to stimuli when they are minor, occur regularly and never predict anything important.

Sensitization- The animals reaction becomes stronger rather than weaker

TRAINING CONCEPTS SPECIFIC FOR DOG WALKERS

44

YOU ARE YOUR DOG’S LIFE

GUARD.Don’t throw him in the

deep end to sink or swim. If his ears fl ip back and his tail drops, come to his aid!

He needs to trust that you are his safety net.

If he is uncomfortable, move to the “shallow end of the pool” – a quiet part of the park, away from the crowd.

If he’s not having fun, don’t make him stay. If you don’t l ike roller coasters, I won’t make you ride one!

A dog has only seen dogs from the inside of a fence, a window, or while straining at the end of a leash.

The result: barrier frustration and high arousal at the sight of dogs.

Seeing dogs has become paired with feeling upset – so they become upset every time they see a dog.

A dog is reactive on leash, but not off .A dog is a fence fi ghter.A dog barks and lunges when driving in the car but

fi ne outside when it greats the stimulus.

BARRIER FRUSTRATION

A schedule of reinforcement is a program or rule that determines how and when a response will be followed by a reward.

Shoot for every 6 seconds to be eff ective

Discrete- rewarded for responding correctly

Free- buff et style, whenever he chooses

RATE OF REINFORCEMENT

5 RULES OF RECALL

1 Never call your dog for something he won’t like.

2 Never call your dog if you don’t think he will come.

3 If you make a mistake in the last step, go and “save” the recall.

4 Never repeat the command. Say it only once and then make yourself interesting/ exciting with a high voice, clapping, running, getting down to the ground, etc.

5 Always give the dog a HUGE pay off when he comes- lots of treats, praise, etc.

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A TRULY SAFE DOG PARK DOGKEEPS TRACK OF ITS WALKER& COMES WHEN CALLED

Joyfully comes on the first time!

An animal is motivated to engage in a particular behavior because someone else is doing it

BarkingDigging

Fears and phobias are often transmitted through social facilitation

“We thought adopting a 2nd dog would help the first, now they are both bad.”

SOCIAL FACILITATION

Refers to a process where one animal is busy engaging in a behavior, which attracts the attention of another animal who moves closet to the fi rst animal.

By proximity, the second animal stumbles upon the same stimulus and develops the same behavior.

For example, the rest of the pack teaches the new dog recall and rewards, how to be off leash

Or the older dog demonstrates housetraining to the puppy

STIMULUS OR LOCAL ENHANCEMENT

SUDDEN ENVIRONMENT CHANGE

Or, SEC is when a stimulus emerges and startles the dogs. Resulting in spooky, or guard dog barking that “sets off the alarm” for the other’s to follow with.

Hard to counter act since usually unpredictable and very rewarding for the pack (if off leash) charge up and bark at.

Import to install a very strong recall/ emergency recall for your dogs’ safety.

52

SCAN FOR SAFETY CONSTANTLY

Watch and listen.

Are these dogs your dogs should play with?

If you note a bully on the playground=

AVOID

Situational Awareness

• BE AWARE OF YOUR SURROUNDS

Set the tone for the walks from the beginning. Teach “wait.” Wait at the door/ wait at the truck bed/ wait to exit the crate.

What quadrant is this???

P-

Say “wait,” begin opening the door, if the dog waits, great, go ahead and open the door more. If he breaks, quickly close the door. Repeat this until he hesitates briefl y before opening the door further. When he hesitates, say “OK.” Give the command only once and REPEAT!

IMPULSE CONTROL

“Wait” for dog’s safety when exiting“Sit” to ask please for things the dog wants“Stay” for focus with the group on the hike“Loose Leash Walking” to not get dragged“Let’s Go” to create distance“Touch/ Hand Targeting” for distraction“Find it” for a job“Recall” for safety

HANDY GO TO TRAINING TIPS

LET’S PRACTICE

Dog Language

Do you speak dog?

It would be great if humans could speak dog!

Speaking Dog

Why Learn Their Language?

Since humans can’t speak dog we must instead learn to understand it.

Recognize signs of resource guarding, stress signals, arousal levels and predation.

Know when you are handling a dog too much and about to get bit.

Because the best way to break up a fight is prevention.

DOG BODY LANGUAGE

Dogs Communicate 3 Ways

1. Smell (number one for dog-dog interaction)

2. Vocally (least used)

3. Body Language (ritualized, and what we can observe)

• Body language interpretation is critical to provide a safe, enjoyable outing for your dogs.

• Express interest to play, resolve conflict, increase or decrease distance.

• Important to read the ENTIRE DOG.

• Read the dog in context.

• Read the other dogs.

• Understand stress signals not just between dogs but also people and the environment.

CANINE BODY LANGUAGE IS USED TO:

The Four Types of Body Language Signals

1. Calming or Cut Off Signals

2. Fear Signals

3. Warning Signals

4. Play Signals

Calming/ Appeasement/ Cut Off Signals

• Lip licking

• Yawning

• Head turns to break eye contact

• Scratching

• Sniffi ng the ground

• Moving slowly or pausing

• Adrenaline Shake

• Blinking

• Submissive urinating

• Rolling over

• Lying down

CALMING SIGNALS- Yawning

Dropping into a sudden down or sit in the middle of a play session is a clear cut-off signal

- Tight, locked lips, hair on back aroused

Submissive, stressed look-away with lip lick.

C-curve look-away

Turning head away from threat

Head lowered, ears back and low on skull, “I am no threat.” “I’m uncomfortable.” “I need space.”

CHIN UP, LOOK AWAY. EXPRESSION OF DISMISSAL, LACK OF INTEREST

The human version.The canine version.

Fear Signals

• Ears held back

• Head drooped

• Weight held on back legs

• Crouching

• Hair from shoulder to tail raised

• Growling

• Snarling/ lip curl

• Snapping

• Bearing teeth

• Tail tucked under body

TAKE ANOTHER LOOK

FEAR SIGNALS

CUT OFF SIGNALS, AVOIDANCE

STRESSED AND DISTRESSED

Taken from Modern Dog magazine

Warning Signals

• Ears forward

• Stiff Posture

• Tail held high and stiff

• Walking straight towards the other dogs

• Starring

• Weight on the front paws

• Neck hair raised

• Escalating growling or barking

• Closed mouth slow breathing

• If warning signals are not read properly either by people or other dogs, can lead to aggression.

THE WHALE EYE- CAUTIOUS

THE FLAG TAIL- POSTURING

Hard eye, wrinkles over muzzle, bared teeth

Protracted warning sequence designed to avoid actual contact. Any dog, pushed too far can bite.

Submissive grin vs. snarl

How can you tell the difference?

Hard eye, tense facial muscles, lips and whiskers forward

Squinty, lips back, ears back and low, body soft and low

Play Signals List to invite other dogs and people to

play

• Elbows on the floor, rear end in the air

• Raising a front paw

• Relaxed mouth, mouth open

• Ears held high and back

• Tail wagging

• Bouncy movements

• Raised neck hairs

Play Signals- bouncy ineffi cient movements

ENGAGING PLAYThe classic play bow

Let's party! Rear higher than front, elbows bent. The bend in the elbow is an extremely important message.

He is not pinned down, he fell down of his own accord.Note curving posture of both dogs.

In healthy play, role reversal is frequent. - Bekoff & Allen - 1998

Submissive posture is offered, not forced

Dogs fall down, assuming the lower role, voluntarily. If pushed and pinned, they are being bullied, not submissive.

Sometimes play can

get carried away.

• Wide open eyes, pupil dilation• Sideways look - "whale eye”• Teeth bared, commissure forward

Arousal levels rising – time for a play break?

ESCALATION

How can you tel l this is playing and not f ighting?

Self handicapping, arousal, and t ipping.

Playing by the rules requires:

Importance of Bite Inhibition

Play bow, loose level tail

Limp soft bodies, c-shape

Play Signals

Mixed Signals!

It is not uncommon to see a dog exhibiting signals from different lists. Often this is a dog displaying that he is conflicted about the environment he is in.

If you are unsure how a dog-dog interaction will go or you see alerting behavior, always better to be more cautious than not. Call the dog to give him a break from the stimulus. Catch him before he reacts, and with repeated practice he will look to you in these scary moments without being asked.

WARNING SIGNALS- FEARFUL AND AGGRESSIVE, CONFLICTED

Taken from Modern Dog magazine

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR THAT LEADS TO DOGS

FIGHTING

Rough playHerdingStalkingExcessive barkingTargeting a dog to play HumpingFailure to read another dog’s cut-off or fear signalsLocked staringGrowling, and escalationBaring of teethPresence of resources between two resource

guarders

What To Do to avoid dog-dog fights

• As a dog walker, you need to see what is going on and intervene when you feel situations are becoming unsafe. Step in, redirect.

• Frequent play breaks, understanding stress signals, setting the tone for the walk and the group, distracting a dog or giving a dog a job to do instead of undesired behaviors, creating distance, and treating to calm a nervous dog are all things you can do when you see warning queues from your dogs.

• It is always wise to leave the park if one of your dogs shows signs of tiredness, stress or fear.

• Avoid threatening unfamiliar dogs. Be conscious of your surroundings.

• Select appropriate dogs for your packs!

“My dog is just being dominant”

AGGRESSION“MY DOG IS JUST

DOMINANT”

1 To resolve conflict over resources

2 In response to fear

3 Hard-wired predatory behavior

3 REASONS FOR AGGRESSION

This is the number one reason dogs fi ght.

tennis ballswatermatesaccess to youfoodtreats (on your person)Space (in car/ truck/territory)

Know when to refer out or ask for training help.

RESOURCE GUARDING

Dogs maybe fearful of CERTAIN dogs or SPECIFIC people.

Previous bad experiences.

Under socialization is usually the reason.

Most fearful dogs make themselves small, and they try to increase distance from the stimulus if they can (avoidance/ fl ight). But these dogs are still a bit risk if pushed too far.

Some dogs learn over time that barking, growling, lunging makes the scary thing go away. And once this is discovered, fear-aggressive displays become bigger, and more scary.

FEAR AGGRESSION

Be cautious with small, running and high pitched squeaky play.

Very real and very serious. Usually with outside pack dogs.

It happens in an instant. Like a light switch going off in a dog’s head for dogs who have never shown any signs of aggression in the past.

50% rule size diff erential.Especially important when in transport, when off leash

and in a pack.Can and usually does happen with dogs who have lived

together their entire life.Bite inhibition plays role.Compulsive fi ghting- dogs breed for fi ghting other dogs.

PREDATION

“Throw the ball!”

stalk

chase

capture

kill

dissect

Play drive shake

Object play is based on predatory sequence:stalk, chase, capture, kill, dissect, consume.

capture

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SMALL DOGS COULD BE SEEN AS PREY.ONE SQUEAL PLUS PACK MENTALITY

AND YOUR SMALL DOG COULD BE KILLED.

Image altered – no Pugs were injured in the making of this photo!

Most dog to human bites are avoidable if we “listen’ to what the dogs are telling us.

Failure to properly read canine body language forces them to go/ act BIGGER: bigger lunges, growls, snaps, bites, etc.

We punish them for warning cues like growls and snarls.

REMEMBER- a dog who growls has made a decision, we could have bitten instead.

AVOIDING DOG – HUMAN CONFLICTS

There is nothing to fear Ritualization is here!

Luckily most of the time when a dog looks angry he is just trying to actually get out of an uncomfortable situation by using what is called Ritualized Aggression.

Ritualized Aggression

An exaggerated display of aggression to tell the stimulus (or scary thing) to back off or there will be trouble. Thereby avoiding violence and solving conflict.

Why?

Dogs use ritualization to avoid fights and violence when conflict over things such as personal space, mates and resources (ie toys and food) arise.

I NEED MY SPACE!

The dog isn't saying "I'm going to bite", he is saying "Back off or else you will force me too.”

103

RED FLAGS

High tails are red flags. The higher and stiffer the tail, the higher the arousal.

Stiff bodies, tense movements.Arousal often tips over into aggression.

Dogs hunched, slinking, crouching, hiding, running to their owners for help. General avoidance is a red flag.

Hot pursuit. Stalking in ambush. Ganging up on smaller, weaker dogs.

Vocalization – angry barking or growling from dogs -or their owners/ walkers.

Owners/ walkers not stepping in when needed – or absent. As well as owners/ walking constantly micromanaging when they don’t need to.

Excessive mountingPinningShadowing another

dogNeck grabbingBullying

MORE RED FLAGS

Let’s Play!!!!PLAY STYLES

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GOOD SIGNS – FAIR PLAY

Role reversal. Takes turns. Chase and be chased. I jump on you - you jump on me.

Starts and stops, redirection.Play bows, loose bodies, lateral

movement.Relaxed, horizontal tail. Swishy wags.Self handicapping - adjusts for other dog’s

size, needs and play style. Shows bite inhibition. No body grabs or

gripping with jaws.

Tarzan

Bully

Inter-Male

Breed Specifi c

Police Dog

Social Proximity

PLAY STYLES

Calming Caps

Crates

Jackets/ Harnesses

INHIBITORS TO HELP WITH BEHAVIOR WHILE ON WALKS OR

DRIVING

DOG FIGHTS

The following list are some of the things that can often predict a dog fi ght:

• Rough play

• Herding behavior

• Stalking behavior

• Excessive barking

• Failure to read another dog’s cutoff signals

• Stiff posture

• Humping

• Locked gaze

• Growling

• Baring of teeth

Predicting a Fight

THESTRESS ESCALATINLADDER - Turid Rugaas

Extreme levels of stressDog is forced to take action.

Preparation to take action.

Low levels of stressCommunication efforts tolower stress levels & perceivedaggressive behaviors in others.

Displacement behaviors:Sniffing the groundScratching

Calming signals:YawningLip lickingLooking awayTurning awayMoving slowly

STRESS REACTIONS:PantingPupil dilationShaking off adrenalineSweating pawsTrembling / shakingWhale eyeHackling

FOCUS:Loss of calming signalsClose mouth - Freeze

Preparing to defend:Showing teethGrowlingFlight / withdrawal

BITE! LUNGE

The biggest pre-bite warning a dog will

issue: The Freeze.

If the dog’s mouth is open and it closes.If a dog is panting and stops.

If his tail is wagging and it stops.If he was moving and he suddenly

becomes a statue …

PAY ATTENTION!

The freeze.

When in a state of arousal a dog goes still, even for a split second, consider it a warning. Be aware of where he is looking.That is where he will bite you if he decides to bite. Escalates to “Teeing.”

A freeze can happen in the blink of an eye.Or the dog may go eerily still and make the hair rise on the back of your neck.

• Careful Screening and Pack Composition

• Situational Awareness

• Avoiding Unknown Dogs

• Safety when driving and crating

Preventing Dog Fights from Occurring

• Even if the dogs seem like they would both enjoy the interaction it is an unnecessary liability to allow them to play.

Avoid Unknown Dogs

Breaking up Fights What Not to Do

NEVER EVER EVER GRAB A DOG BY THE COLLARYou are likely to get bitten!

The best way to break up a dog fight is to startle the dogs using an exterior stimulus.

• Loud noises such as a clap or yelling for minor fights and airhorns for bigger fights.

• Spraying the dogs in the face with water.

• Tossing a piece of clothing over both of their heads.

• Citronella spray for last resort.

How to Break Up Fights

What to do after a fight

• Immediately leash/ muzzle the aggressor dog.

• Separate the two fighters and check for injuries.

• If minor enough to continue walk, do not let them interact the rest of the day.

• Try to occupy both dogs and redirect focus.

• Try to keep arousal down>

• Call the owners and notify them of new behaviors and come up with a plan so it does not happen again.

DOG FIGHT EFFECTS

Once a dog has fought, his cortisol levels (stress hormones) are elevated for the next three days.

Which means that once a dog has a fi ght, he/she is much more likely to have another fi ght for the next 72 hours.

Your dog just “rehearsed” being aggressive and pinning it is the worst thing you can do. It puts an adrenaline charged dog in a vulnerable position while other dogs are off leash.

Pinning can have the opposite eff ect and cause a dog that is known to be questionable around dogs to develop full blown aggression, with more intense damage causing fi ghts.

120

YOU PLANNED TO SPEND THE

AFTERNOON AT THE DOG PARK,

NOT THE VET

CLINIC!It’s all fun and games until someone ends up in a cone!

PACK DYNAMICS AND PARK

ETIQUETTE

122

THE DOG PARK IS NOT A GOOD CHOICE FOR ALL DOGS.

NOT EVERY DOG IS A “DOG PARK DOG”.

Uncomfortable dogs are often targeted by bull ies. I t ’s l ike they have a “kick me” sign or a bull ’s eye on their backs.

Shy dogs may be more comfortable in the small dog area.

Your dog is not a “bad dog” if she simply doesn’t enjoy “playing” with unfamiliar dogs at the dog park.

Many dogs do not enjoy being surrounded by space invaders. Does your dog really think this environment is “fun”?

123

DON’T BRING A DOG WITH SOCIAL ISSUES TO “GET

OVER” HIS PROBLEM.

Not appropriate for the dog park:

• Aggressive dogs.

• Very shy dogs.

• Young puppies.

• Dogs who are possessive of toys, food or you.

• Unvaccinated, injured or ill dogs.

• Dogs in season.

He’ll more likely get worse, not better.

If he got k

icked out of d

oggie daycare,

he doesn’t belong at th

e dog park, either!

Careful Screening and Pack Composition

• Nothing is more important when walking dogs both on and off leash than choosing the right dogs to walk together.

• It is ok to reorganize groups, and offer different walk slot times for dogs to change the dynamic of the group.

• It is also ok to refer clients to other services when their dogs begin to show behaviors that can not be worked on in a group setting.

Wellness Check – do not bring out with the pack if you notice:

Coughing/ gaggingVomitingDiarrheaSneezing

CLIENT COMMUNICATION

126

A DOG PARK IS A GREAT PLACE TO RUN!

Dogs need exercise! Opportunities to run free and fast, chase balls, sniff and explore.

The average walk on leash just doesn’t fill the bill.

Tired, satisfied dogs are more content and less likely to be destructive.

127

TIRED DOGS SLEEP!

Adolescent dogs and high energy working breeds often have more energy than they know what to do with.

A chance to romp with friends and run off some steam and your rowdy teenager comes home tired and satisfied – and doesn’t need to take that excess energy out on you!

128

WELL SOCIALIZED, WELL TRAINED DOGS ARE SAFER IN PUBLIC

People who take the time to attend training classes and exercise their dogs are generally responsible owners who genuinely care about their dog and its welfare.

The more a dog gets out in the world practicing good manners and experiencing positive exposure to people, places and other animals, the safer the dog becomes when out in public.

Training + socialization = safer dogs

To be fi lled out

TRAINER REFERRAL SOURCE

130

SUPER-VISION:KEEP YOUR DOG IN

SIGHT AT ALL TIMES.

Monitor his behavior. He may be “fine,” but is the dog he is playing with having fun, too?

Think of the park as a place to go for a walk. Don’t stand and chat; walk and visit.

Keep moving!

Pay attention to your dog - not your phone, your book, or texting your friends.

131

A BAD EXPERIENCE COULD IMPACT A YOUNG OR SHY

DOG FOR THE REST OF ITS LIFE.

The dog park is not a good place to socialize young puppies. Choose a well-run puppy class instead.

Avoid public parks, especially dog parks, until they have completed their vaccinations.

Older pups should start in the small dog area on quiet days.Choose their friends carefully!

Young, inexperienced dogs are often targeted by bullies.

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CLASSICAL CONDITIONING: EMOTIONAL ASSOCIATIONS

Dogs who are bullied often become bullies.

Fear grimace – lips pulled back

Tail dropped, weight shifted back

“Stay away! You scare me!”(She needs space, not a correction)

A bad experience.

A dog who is T-boned, rolled, or unfairly corrected by a socially inept dog may carry that experience with them into all future interactions. “I ’ l l get you before you can get me!”

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BE POLITE

Scoop the poop – the dogs in your care and anyone else’s.

See someone who needs a bag? Share!Toss all garbage – yours and anyone else’s.Is someone else’s dog running to you for

help? Help one another out! Feces and garbage may carry bacteria and parasites. Keep the park clean! We all share it!

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PACK WISELY

Bring poop bagsBring water & a portable bowlKeep a f irst aid kit in your carBring your cell phone and the number of the

nearest veterinarian/emergency clinic

Don’t forget to bring a towel !

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SAFETY FIRST!

Make sure your dogs are in good health, vaccinated and free of parasites.

Your dogs should be safe with dogs & people, large and small, and enjoy the company of other dogs.

Try to choose a quiet time of day when the park is not crowded and hang out in less-populated parts of the park. Let your dogs sniff and explore and meet a few quiet, appropriate dogs.

Your dogs’ safety is paramount. Your first duty is to your dog when inside the dog park and stay off your phone.

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NO FEMALES IN SEASON!

Many intact males can be testy with other males. We recommend do not taking intact males over 6 months of age to avoid being targeted.

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THE SAFEST PARKS HAVE DIVIDED AREAS FOR LARGE & SMALL DOGS

Large dogs belong in the large dog area.

Small dogs belong in the small dog area.

Your small dog may love big dogs, but some large dogs may see your small dog as a squirrel or a squeaky toy.

Collisions could result in broken bones.

Small dogs or young puppies in the large dog area could result in tragedy.

Most little dogs don’t know they are small!

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ENTERING THE PARK:LET’S BEGIN WITH A FEW DOG

PARK BASICS:Keep your dog on lead until safely inside

the gated area.One dog family in the pass-thru at a time. Stay back from the gate until others have

exited. Close the gates behind you!Wait to go in if there are dogs

congregated at the gate.Move away from the gate and steer clear of

heavily congregated areas – keep moving.

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SOCIAL PROTOCOL

The first few minutes is a period of introduction, arousal, attaining social equilibrium.

It is stressful.

The gate is a hot spot.

Trouble is likely there. Wait for the gate to clear, avoid walking straight into crowded, high traffic areas.

Video – traffic jam at the gate:

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ENTER THE DOG PARK THE WAY YOU WOULD ENTER A PARTY WHERE YOU

DON’T KNOW ANYONE.

Enter discreetly. Get your bearings.

Size up the room, look for a familiar face.

Wander a bit, get a drink.

Seek out someone you have something in common with.

Politely introduce yourself.

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PLAY SAFELY! Competitive play can quickly spiral into a fight.

Play fetch in open areas away from crowds, or save those games for the privacy of your own backyard.

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DON’T THROW HIS BALL INTO

A CROWD OF DOGS.ONE BALL, FIVE DOGS AND A RACE TO GET TO IT FIRST –

THIS COULD GO POORLY.

Beware of the dog who is poised to jump the dog chasing the ball.Change locations or wait until he moves on to throw your ball.

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ASK OTHER OWNERS/WALKERS FOR HELPHOW YOU ASK IS IMPORTANT –

BE CALM AND SUPPORTIVE.OWNERS/WALKERS MAY BECOME DEFENSIVE REGARDING COMPLAINTS ABOUT THEIR DOG.

“Could you call your dog, please?”

“It’s okay, my dog is friendly - he’s just playing.”

“I know, but my dog is a scaredy cat, he doesn’t know that – could you please call your dog? Thank you!

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GOOD DOG PARENTING/ MANAGEMENT

Watch the dog(s) he is playing with. If either dog is not having fun – if anyone’s tail drops and ears flip back – interrupt and redirect.

Your dogs needs guidance to learn appropriate manners in the park.

Do not allow your dog to bully others or have fun at the expense of another dog’s comfort. Interrupt. Take a break to calm down.

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NOT SURE IF THE DOG BEING CHASED BY YOUR DOG IS ENJOYING THE GAME? TEST: CALL YOUR DOG.

If the other dog follows and continues to engage your dog, it was probably fine. You may allow play to continue.

If the other dog looks relieved and dashes off to safety, you were right in separating them.

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YOUR DOG WILL BE SAFER, AND SO WILL ALL THE DOGS IN THE PARK, IF YOU CAN CALL

THEM OUT OF A TRICKY SITUATION.Practice at home!

Call often and reward generously with a high value food reward, a game with a favorite toy, or any activity that your dog loves.

Every time you call your dog and reward him well, you increase the speed and likelihood of future reliable responses.

Avoid calling to anything your dog finds disappointing or unpleasant, or he will learn to avoid you when you call.

Congratulate your dog every time he checks in.

Call, praise and then send your dog off to go play frequently, so your dog doesn’t think that the only time he hears “come” is when it’s time to go home.

NOTE: Avoid giving out treats to other dogs, or even to your own dog, while other dogs are gathered – you don't want to start  a conflict, competing over you as a food source.

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EVEN WHEN IT’S GOING WELL, CONTINUE TO MONITOR AROUSAL

LEVELS CLOSELY!

JUST LIKE KIDS ON A PLAY GROUND, WHAT STARTS OUT FUN COULD END UP IN

TEARS!

Cooperative play ^side-by-side sharing.

^ Note: high tail and hairraised on spine of brown dog.Red flag!

v Competitive exchange, arousal risingDogs face-off – “it’s mine!”

Hackles raisedeyebrows lowered

When in doubt, call him out!

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Dominance or submissiveness is not a character trait – it’s a situational relationship between individuals.

NO DOG IS “GOOD” WITH *ALL DOGS* ALL THE TIME

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CHECK FOR INJURIES AFTER EVERY HIKE WHEN DROPPING OFF.

TicksFoxtails & burrsScrapes or punctures Injuries to pads of feet or torn nailsHead shaking, scratching, licking,

sneezingLimping, sore muscles

Play is hard work!

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AT THE END OF THE WALK, YOU

AND YOUR DOGS SHOULD LEAVE

THE PARK SMILING.Monitor stress levels – watch

for red flags.

Stay in touch with your dogs- keep him in sight at all t imes.

Body block to protect your dogs if he runs to you for help. Don’t grab your dog to “save” him. Intercept and redirect the incoming space invader to give your dogs room to escape.

Call your dogs and move away from troublesome activity any time things get tense or your dogs seem uncomfortable.

Praise for all great choices and good manners!

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Well-socialized, traineddogs are safer dogs that make our parks safer too!

Not all dogs are “dog park/ group dogs.”

If a dog (or you) are not enjoying the hikes it is ok to refer out to another walker who does a different service (one on one) or a trainer if needed.

SUMMARY- YOU ARE THE KEY TO SUCCESS!