post independence decline of khadi textile industry

Post Independence Decline of Khadi Textile Industry

Abhishek Anand

National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Objective To analyze the decline of khadi textile industry.

To study about the new developments of khadi textile industry.


Research Methodology:Secondary Research: Books Magazines Internet

Primary Research: Data Collection Tool Questionnaires Interview

Sampling Method Judgmental Sampling Questionnaires-100 Interview-25

Sample SizeNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Introduction Swadeshi is the soul of Swaraj, khadi is the essence of swedeshi ! Mahatma Gandhi Khadi is Livery of our Freedom! Jwaharlal Nehru At the helm our Independence movement, khadi was not just an ordinary fabric but a symbol of unity Slowly as the Nation became indepenent Khadi started losing its importanceNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

The Decline Post Independence, India opts for large scale State Funded Industrialization Big textile mills are setup across country Khadi being completely handmade becomes more expensive in comparison to its mill made counterpart Khadi used to be dimensionally inconsistent in comparison to mill made fabric with problems of Shrinkage and StretchNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

The Decline The aesthetics also didnt work in favour, with Khadi being rough and irregular Color options were very limited in Khadi Use of vegetable and natural dyes with no industrial boosters led to the poor color stability to washing and rubbing And last but not the least, branding of Khadi as a Poor Mans Cloth made it undesirable.


Advent of KVIC In 1953 Khadi and Village Industry Commission took the reins from All India Khadi and Village Industries Board (Estd.January 1953) whose primary focus was to employ thousands of spinners all across the country KVIC was formed as a nobal agency which will support sale of Khadi through its retail outlets KHADI BHANDARS


Objectives Of KVIC The social objective of providing employment The economic objective of producing saleable articles, The wider objective of creating self-reliance amongst the poor and developing a strong rural community spirit All the above points were noble and just in the era when Khadi was about to loose its significance in a highly competitive marketNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Boon Turns Bane Advent of KVIC which was looked upon as a boon actually was actually a devil in disguise. Red Tapeism and Bureaucracy made the funds impossible to be allocated in a justified manner The middlemen and KVIC officials reaped maximum benefits and state of spinners and weavers continued to decline A lot of bogus and non working weaving units mushroomed just to get the benefits of rebates and funds of KVIC, never bringing any product over the counterNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Boon Turns Bane Lack of proper training to spinners and weavers led to further problem of non quality products A proper supervision of pre production process led to a poor raw material The spinning wheels being left un standarized and non calibrated gave yarns of different characteristics leading to the irregularities at the fabric stage As there was no clear organization structure and clear allocation of jobs and responsibilities , this sector remained unorganized unsure about course of future


Boon Turns Bane KVIC did not put any attention towards the products being sold in the their retail outlets KHADI BHANDARS leading to Customer dissatisfaction People started loosing the faith in khadi products Soon the image got tarnished and reduced to khadi becoming a synonym of rough, coarse and ill fitted Kurtas to be worn only by politicians


Fashion :- A Ray of Hope During this Black Age there came a renaissance Devika Bhojwani a Fashion Designer pioneered the Swadeshi label of Khadi ensembles. KVIC in 1989 organised a fashion show showcasing her collection This was the first step towards changing Khadi's earlier image of being unfashionable 1990, the Delhi based designer, Ritu Kumar presented her first Khadi collection, Tree of LifeNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Fashion :- A Ray of Hope With increasing interest of the western world in use of handloom and Khadi, many Indian designers began to use Khadi for their designs KVIC started the revamp of KHADI BHANDARS by opening air conditioned shops with garments designed by big names in fashion industry as the products. Khadi started to be viewed as an alternative of Linen, and slowly the image paradigm started its shift towards being fashionableNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Khadi Now and Then


Khadi on Ramp


Production from 1950-1990Production of Khadi350 300 Crores of Rupees 250 200 150 100 50 0 1955-56 1960-61 1965-66 19-68-69 1973-74 1977-78 1978-79 1979-80 1984-83 1989-90 Series1

Series 1-crores of rupees Source-KVIC


Sales 1950-1990Sales of Khadi350 Crores Of Rupees 300 250 200 150 100 50 0 195556 196061 1965- 19-68- 197366 69 74 197778 197879 197980 198483 198990 Series1

Series 1-sales incrores of rupees


Source-KVIC

Employment 1950-1990Employment (Full time+Part time)25 20 In lakhs 15Series1

10 5 0 1955-561960-611965-66 19-68- 1973-741977-781978-79 1979-801984-831989-90 69

Series 1-in lakhs


Source-KVIC

Fashion and Khadi Post 2000 With many designers experimenting with Khadi, the designs are no longer as simple as they used to be. A great deal of emphasis was given to the details of the designs and many new colours were introduced. Eco-friendly vat dyes were used. March 2002, Preyasi, the official designer for KVIC, launched "TheKhadi Range Collection-2002." In the collection, Khadi was used to create apparel such as, casual shirts,waist coats, skirts, wrap-arounds, trousers, parallels, and tops for womenNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Government and Khadi Post 2000 In 2000-2001, funds to the tune of Rs. 1.29 billion were released for providing huge subsidies and grants to the Khadi sector Concerted efforts were made to root out corruption in the payment of rebate Regular vigilance raids were conducted in various parts of the country to detect malpractices in claiming of Khadi rebates and to distinguish between genuine and bogus Khadi and village industriesNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Government and Khadi Post 2000 In May 2000, the Ministry of Small Scale Industries announced a special package of Rs.12.15 billion for KVIC Rs.0.3 billion had been allocated for renovation of the existing outlets Rs 0.4 billion was sanctioned for promotional activities October 2001, KVIC signed a memorandum of understanding with the Ahmedabad-based National Institute of Design (NID) to provide it design support in order to improve the diminishing market-share of Khadi


Government and Khadi Post 2000 KVIC registered Khadi as a brand name, thereby, protecting it legally KVIC launched two separate brands, Sarvodaya and Khadi in August 2001 Khadi the brand focuses on Export and up market KVIC allotted huge funds into research and development to improve the quality of Khadi


Sales 2001-2010Khadi Sales700 600 500 400 300 200 100 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 2001-2010Series 1- in crore rupeesNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

In Crores Rupees

Series1

SOURCE-kVIC

Employment 2001-2010Employment in Khadi Sector10 9.5 9 8.5 8 7.5 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 2001-2010National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

In Crores

Series1

Series 1-employment in crores

Source-KVIC

Production ComparisonComparison: Village and Khadi Industries16000Production Revenue in Crores

14000 12000 10000 8000 6000 4000 2000 0 1 2 3 4 5 62000-2010

7

8

9

10

11


The Way ahead Though the Indian Government provided huge financial assistance to KVIC, the funds did not produce the desired result Through a survey by a global consulting firm , Andrew Anderson some suggestions were made which may work out in the favour of KHADI


Suggestions of Andrew Anderson KVIC should be a policy-making body and play a strategic role rather than being involved in the operations It should be made a market-oriented organization, and given the freedom to decide on the issues of rebate An independent marketing company be formed, which would be disintegrated from the existing KVICNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Suggestions of Andrew Anderson This company would also deal with improvements in the quality of products, packaging and marketing Special rebate on Khadi products be made available in the first week of every month, instead of the usual 90-day period after the month of October A separate Research and Development team along with a design team must be in place to insure constant InnovationNational Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna

Finding of primary Research


Do you prefer khadi



WHAT PROBLEM DO YOU FACE WHILE CHOOSING MERCHANDISE FROM KHADI


How often do you purchase khadi garment


How much you spend


Trend analysis









Trend Analysis









Khadi Denim Rajkot based Saurashtra Rachnatmak Samiti (SRS) introduced khadi denim in the market which is now proving to be a hit. biggest denim player in the market, Arvind Mills, has contacted them for mass-scale production of khadi denims. To popularize it , it was decided to hold fashion shows, with models walking on the ramp, wearing new khadi products, including khadi denim.



An enterprising designer took the khadi denim concept to Paris textile show, which aroused international interest in the product. Under the special scheme of SFURTI (Scheme of Fund for Regeneration of Traditional Industries) launched by KVIC, they had set up a special centre at Limbdi for development of new varieties of khadi.


Khadi Blue Denim Jeans-first blended fabric denim Jeans. Premium Denim with Khadi like slub structures coming from the warp. These Jeans will keep you warmer than the normal Jeans you wear. This denim is strong and soft. New age denim made of Cotton and Polyester blend. Around 13.5 Oz Heavy Denim, soft feel. Each piece is individually cut from rolls of denim fabric and stitched accordingy. Washed at high temperatures to give complete shrinkage and faded look. Leather labels. 5 Pocket style. Metal Buttons and Rivets Reinforced.National Institiute of Fashion Technology, Patna


Conclusion There is no shortage of budget from government of India for revival of this product All we need is a proper organization of the governing body Also required is a proper channelizing of funds and a continuous audit to insure its reliability With Proper marketing Khadi has potential to reach new and unscaled heights


post independence decline of khadi textile industry

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