programme det gb v2

8/11/2019 Programme Det Gb v2

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G.I.P. A division of ASFO GRASSE

48, avenue Riou Blanquet BP 21017 06131 GRASSE Cedex FRANCETel. 33 4 92 42 34 90 Fax 33 4 92 42 34 95 Email : [email protected]

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G.I .P. DETAI LED TRAIN ING PROGRAMME FOR STUDENT PERFUMERS 2/6



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1. Some general features

1.1. The history of perf umery

Antiquity (graeco-roman world).

The Middle Ages and the Arab world.

The Renaissance and the emergence of perfumery at Grasse.

Perfumery at theRoyal Court.

From the French revolution to present day : the impact of the industrial revolution on the

perfume industry.

1.2. The chemistry of perfume

Some basic chemical knowledge to provide a better understanding of the structure of

molecules possessing a sensory power. The volatility and solubility of sensory molecules.

1.3. The sense of smell

The biology and physiology of olfaction

and the perception of smells.

1.4.

Vocabulary of perfume

Olfactory concepts.

Technical vocabulary.

2. An apprenticeship in raw materials and olfaction

2.1. Natural raw mater ials

The study of the main groups of raw materials :

Essential oils,Expressed oils,

Concretes,

Absolutes,

Resins,

Tinctures,

Infusions.


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Each natural raw material will be examinedas follows :

Methods of production.

Place of production, poundageand price.

Physical and chemical characteristics.

Mainconstituents.

Olfactory characteristics.Use.

Regulations.

Olfaction sessions for each raw material and comparative study by origin and variety.

The olfactory study of the main constituents of each raw material.

Demonstration videos.

Practical extraction work in the laboratory.

The main olfactory groups studied (representing approximately 150 natural raw materials).

Citrus : bergamo, lime , mandarin, orange, grapefruit, lemon, neroli, petitgrain

Rustic : spike, lavender, lavandin, rosewood, rosemary, sage

Wooded : amyris, cedar wood, guaiacwood, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver

Camphoraceous : thyme, rosemary, eucalyptus, armoise, angelica, myrtle

Spicy : bay ,cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, cardamom

Aniseed : anise, star anise, basil, tarragon, fennel, dill

Rose : roses, geraniums

Jasmine : jasmine, ylang-ylang

Amber : amber, cistus, cypress, ambrette seed

Earthy : oak and tree muss, liquoriceAnimal : musk, civet, castoreum

Vanilla : vanilla, benzoin, Peru balsam

Hay : tonka bean, celery, cut hay

2.2. Synthetic raw mater ial s

Study of the main categories :

Isolates

Semi-synthetic products

Synthetic products

The main manufacturing techniques.

Each synthetic raw material will be examined as follows :

Methods of production.

Place of production, volume and price.

Physical and chemical characteristics.

Olfactory characteristics.

Use.

Regulations.


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Olfaction sessions for each raw material and comparative study.

The study of approximately 300 synthetic raw materials including :

Semi-synthetic : cedryle acetate, vetiveryl acetate, heliotropine, hydroxycitronnellal,

ionones and methylionones, carvone, terpineol, isobornyle acetate.Synthetic : musk ketone, musk xylene, cinnamic alcohol, benzyl alcohol, benzoic

aldehyde, cinnamic aldehyde, amylcinnamic aldehyde, hexylcinnamic aldehyde,

aldehyde C16, cuminic aldehyde, phenylacetic aldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde,

diphenylmethane, polycyclic musks, acetophenone, benzophenone, styrallyl acetate,

coumarin, anethol, anisic aldehyde, amyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, eugenol,

vanillin, ethyl-vanillin, iso-eugenol, eugenyl acetate, coumarin, thymol, nitromusks,

menthol, menthone, anisic aldehyde, anisic alcohol, anisic esters, methyl anthranilate,

methyl-N methyl anthranilate, methylnaphtylketone, heterocyclic musks.

Schiff bases

3.

Accords

'Accord : the effect obtained by combining two or more perfume notes. An accord sometimes

portrays a scent which bears no relation to the raw materials used in its making'.

3.1. Olfactory recognition

By successive stages, the student perfumer should be capable of recognising the raw materials

present in more and more complex accords.

3.2.

Creating accords

An apprenticeship in creating 'classic' accords : rose, lily of the valley, jasmine, carnation

towards the creation of 'original' accords.

3.3. The Structure of a perf ume

From the better known perfumes, the student perfumer should be capable of drawing up a

balanced framework for different suggested fragrances. Then to attempt to improve this

framework by adding new raw materials in order to strive for new interesting olfactory

structures.

3.4. Study of the main ol factory groups and sub-groups and the leading perfumes

(genealogy) :

Citrus,

Green,

Water,

Floral,

Soft floral,

Floral oriental,


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Oriental,

Woody oriental,

Mossy woods,

Dry woods,

Aromatic.

4. Creation

4.1. The creation pr ocess of present day perfumes

4.2. The creation by olfactory imi tation

4.3. The tools used to analyse the constitu ents of perf ume

Gas chromatography and mass spectrometry : their strengths and weaknesses.

4.4. Creation

5. The application within functional perfumery

Shower gels.

Shampoos.

Deodorants.

Anti-perspirant deodorant sticks.

Soaps.

Candles.

Potpourris and air fresheners.

6. Miscellaneous

6.1. Perfume and cosmetic legislation

The study of regulations : their establishment : security, toxicity and their consequences

The role of the professional organisations and their relationship with the authorities :

- Nationalassociations : Prodarom, BFA, VRDH, FMA, JFFMA

-

European association : European flavour and Fragrance Association (EFFA)

- International association : International Fragrance Association (IFRA)

-

The role of the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM).Community regulations :

-

'dangerous substances' Directive

- 'dangerous preparations' Directive

- 'safety data sheets' Directive

- 'cosmetics' Directive

National regulations.

Self regulation : the IFRA Code of Practice.

Individual constraints : customer demands.


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6.2. The marketing of perfumery

Communication techniques.

Sales techniques.

Internal and external communication tools.

Merchandising.

6.3. Site visits

Visits to perfume plant producers (Rose centifolia, Grasse

jasmine, mimosa, lavender,

lavandin).

Visits to factory workshops producing raw materials and fragrance compounds.

Visits to R & D laboratories and quality control departments.


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G.I.PA division of ASFO GRASSE

Villa Margherite 48, Avenue Riou Blanquet 06130 GRASSE 04 92 42 34 90 Fax 04 92 42 34 95 mail : [email protected]

Adresse postale B.P 21017 06131 GRASSE CEDEX

SURNAME FIRST NAME

DATE OF BIRTH PLACE OF BIRTH

ADDRESS

POST CODE TOWN

COUNTRY

TELEPHONE EMAIL

NATIONALITYMARITAL

STATUS

MEANS OF

TRANSPORT YES NOFOR FOREIGNERS,STUDENT OR WORK PERMIT VALID UNTIL:

QUALIFICATION YEAR

WORK EXPERIENCE (*)

(*) Starting with the most recent employment

FROM TO COMPANY POSITION

Photo

RREEGGIISSTTRRAATTIIOONNFFOORRMM


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G.I.PA division of ASFO GRASSE

Villa Margherite 48, Avenue Riou Blanquet 06130 GRASSE 04 92 42 34 90 Fax 04 92 42 34 95 mail : [email protected]

Adresse postale B.P 21017 06131 GRASSE CEDEX

RREEGGIISSTTRRAATTIIOONNCCOONNDDIITTIIOONNSS

1. REGISTRATI ON FORM

Those wishing to apply for a place at G.I.Pmust return the registration form completed in full by 31thJuly 2014at thelatest. There is a registration fee of 100 to cover the cost of recruitment. This sum must be enclosed with theregistration form, resume and motivation letter (payable to ASFO-GRASSE).

Any form not accompanied by the payment cannot be considered.

2. REGISTRATI ON

The number of available places at G.I.Pis limited to 12 persons. The selection process will take place in Grasse fromMarch 2014 to End August 2014. Under certain conditions, the selection process could take place in the country oforigin (consult us). All the applications will be studied but only the files of the candidates which complied with theselections criteria of the school will be received for the interview .

The recruitment process consists of five parts. Candidates will be expected to undergo:an examination on the command of the English language (written and oral) lasting 30 minutes. Coefficient 1a mathematics examination lasting 30 minutes. Coefficient 2an evaluation of artistic and creative competence lasting 60 minutes. Coefficient 3a test of olfactory recognition lasting 20 minutes. Coefficient 4a 20 minutes interview with a panel of professionals and lecturers to assess the candidate's motivation and

professional plans for the future. Coefficient 5

The twelve candidates with the best results will be admitted into G.I.P. and the five next best candidates will be put onthe waiting list.

3. COST OF THE COURSE

The cost of the course is 12 000 for nine months training. Those successful candidates who will enrol on the coursemust settle a third of this sum (4800 ) by 31st January 2015 at the latest. The remainder must be paid in twosettlements: 3600 on 30thApril 2015 and 3600 on 31stAugust 2015.

4. THE TRAINI NG SCHEDULE

The training course will be split into two parts : from Monday 19th January 2015 toFriday 26th June 2015 and fromTuesday 1

stSeptember 2015 to Friday 18

thDecember 2015.

The working week will consist of 4.5 days (35 hours).from Monday to Thursday : 8.30 am - 12.30 pm / 1.30 pm - 5.00 pm.Friday : 8.30 am - 12.30 pm.

These times may be modified, particularly during visits to producers and factories.

5. ACCOMMODATION AND CATERING

Accommodation or catering are the responsibility of the applicant. Two drinks vending machines (hot and cold) will beavailable to them as well as a room equipped with two micro-wave ovens.

A list of furnished accommodation in Grasse will be provided if required.

programme det gb v2

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