reball uputstvo duvaljka

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  • 8/9/2019 reball uputstvo duvaljka

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    i think its important to start this thread off by stating this guide is in no way gospel and shouldnever be taken as such even if you own the exact kit i do, it is intended only as a starting point ora point of reference for tips and techniques. every machine is different as well as its location andall that will be a factor in your setup so you must test and tweak your own setup to achieve thesame results. the principles and temps involved will always be the same but timing especially willbe very different on other machines and for instance a machine with a faster ramp rate than minewouldn't necessary need as long a dwell time.I hope everyone into this kind of thing will add to the thread or create a similar one of their ownand it would be great if everyone shared their own setups and tips n tricks you have picked thatonly come from experience.I've been reworking consoles and laptops now for about 2years now and almost every bit ofknowledge was gleamed from a similar thread and the few who were willing to share their ownknowledge.

    this is my process for reflowing and reballing using a Pu!ui t"2"# preheater and ayoue $%" hotair rework station.

    &oom in real dimensions( "## x %##)Image

    *lux

    good flux is key in any bga rework and can make or break the work you do if its not up to the task.avoid any clear liquid flux's and ebay as its mostly +ust general flux watered down withisopropanol and is usually easily identified by the strong ipa smell it will give off but obviously youwill have been ripped off by the time you find that out. i've ended up being sold $$ipa as a fluxthanks to the ebay ripoff merchants and a lack of knowledge when i started. i now only use insat-/ liquid super flux for most of my work though i do prefer the amtech 01## flux for chip attachand cleaning up the old solder on the chip and board. a good flux will still be visible at the end ofthe reflowreball proccess so if you see it all burn off before then you have most likely got an ipawatered down flux i'm afraid.now most flux is highly corrosive so you must clean it off afterward. a quick flush out with ipaunder the chip and a blast of compressed air will clean it up nicely, you may however get somesticky brown residue left around the edge of the chip. this is mostly dirt and crap the flux has

    bubbled out from under the chip so its actually a good thing to some degree but get this stuff offwhen your board is at around "# degrees on the cooldown and it cleans off much easier than ifyou left the board to fully cool. under the chip isn't going to get this build up so don't concernyourself with that, under there there will be very minimal residue.i buy my amtech here http(www.bgamods.co.ukindex.php3route4productcategory5path4%2and the liquid flux from here http(www.insatinternational.comproduct.php3category6id471

    8he Importance 9f :oard +igs

    :oard +igs may come with your setup depending what system you use but if not its highlyrecommended to get them. there is only the 2 +igs required for xbox 1%# work, phat and slim butfor P;1 there are several different board revisions in the phat consoles and another for the slims.avoid 1)Image

    board on. secured with pc motherboard screws

  • 8/9/2019 reball uputstvo duvaljka

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    Image

    underside view&oom in real dimensions( %#0 x 0>1)Image

    8< Positioning

    8op side tc

    &oom in real dimensions( "## x %##)Image

    i only use the omega tc thinest one) now and my bottom side tc is impossible to get a shot of butits much the same as the top ones position but on the underside of the gpu area. avoid usingalutape to secure the bottom tc so as not to deflect heat away from that area ?) instead secure itwell with kapton tape bearing in mind the weight of the tc and the heat could dislodge this if notsecured properly and that's +ust going to melt your tc on you and a roll of kapton's a fair bit less sogo mad if you have to. you could also invest in karls magnetic flexi tc holder and never have toworry about it coming off. http(www.bgamods.co.uk:@/6-ework6;ta ... 68 stage. am trying to make this as easy a read as possible.

    Pre !eat /nd -eflow ;tage 7

    7. 8urn preheater onto 7"#< and leave until top side 8< temps are 7"#< then hold for 2 mins.2. 8urn /oyue onto $#< at this point and hold for 7 minute1. 8urn /oyue up to 7>#< and hold for 7 minute0. 8urn /oyue up to 2#7< and hold for 7 minute>. 8urn /oyue up to 2>#< and hold for 7 minute may or may not be required, if you hit 2##before this disregard it completely)

    A/-BIB@( :e aware that the top side thermocouple temp is the one to watch and your preheater

    may well need setting to a different temp to hit 7"# on your 8

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    nudge, remember you are only looking for a half millimeter of movement at most, +ustenough to see it move. if your lifting the chip for reball now is the time to do it.0. /fter the 2# second countdown drop /oyue straight down to 2#7< and hold for 2 minutes>. -aise /oyue noCCle to half inch%. ;witch /oyue off which will decrease the temp of /oyue to $#< before turning offD. ;witch black switch off on preheater. Preheater will now begin to gradually cool down". /t %>< switch preheater main power switch offif you lifted the chip you should get a nice clean lift like so

    &oom in real dimensions( "## x %##)Image

    *inishing Ep

    7. Feave board until topside temp is 0> minutes then flat test with the heatsinksresting on the chips and hopefully all green.

    . 8urn /oyue up to 2>#< and hold for 7 minute may or may not be required, if you hit 7">before this disregard it completely)

    -e;eating 8he #< everyminute until topside reaches 7">< and hold for 2# seconds0. /fter the 2# second countdown drop /oyue straight down to 7$#. -aise /oyue noCCle to half inch%. ;witch /oyue off which will decrease the temp of /oyue to $#< before turning offD. ;witch black switch off on preheater. Preheater will now begin to gradually cool down

    ". /t %>< switch preheater main power switch off

    *inishing Ep

    7. Feave board until topside temp is 0> minutes then flat test with the heatsinksresting on the chips and hopefully all green.

    here is a shot of the gpu and hana chip lifted from a Cephyr motherboard. note the brown crap

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    where the hana was that the flux has collected during the preheat stage from where the fans dragdust under it and how the area the chip belongs is now spotlessly clean. that's insat flux for you ?)some of it is flux residue and this was a fairly clean board, some i've seen are black and crusty,

    +ust all depends how much dirt's under there before hand.

    &oom in real dimensions( %#0 x 0>1)Image

    *inal notes to keep in mindi have said this already in the guide but its worth saying it again. never take the temps you set onany machine as set in stone when setting your kit up. all will differ slightly even identicle machinesdue to environment, airflow level, gap between the chip and noCCle as well as any environmentalfactors such as draughts and room temperature. all these will play a factor in what your machineis set to and what you acually see at the board tc's. the only way to perfect your profile is bytesting it out and making any needed ad+ustments yourself but the golden rule to remember is itsthe tc temp that is most important. apart from the initial setting of the machines i never watch thetemps on them and watch the tc instead. if you run this exact setup you will always have thecontroll to ad+ust the machines as you go if you need to.

    credit is due to karl here since this is his original profile i was lucky enough to have to do nothingwith after buying his original setup (=

    here's a low quality video i done of the chip reball process using the same kit.http(www.youtube.comwatch3v48>x$Dq/kPsHand some awesome video's by pure1d2 over at xbox experts can be found herehttp(forums.xboxexperts.comviewtopi ... 41%5t40D#%

    !ope this helps and i will add stuff as it comes to me.

    as with all my guides it is the property of :@/ mods so please ask permission before using itelsewhere and give credit (ugeek(