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Over-the-Top Mushroom Quiche

From Thomas Keller)

Keller recommends that you use 1 pound of oyster mushrooms and 1

pound of white button mushrooms for this recipe. I used a smaller mixof the two, plus a pound of cremini (or baby portobello) mushrooms.

Use whatever youve got around. I insist that while a large mix

mushrooms are wonderful to cook with, you can get plenty of delicious

flavor in this quiche from any everyday mushrooms you can get at a

good price.

He also recommends that you use 2 cups milk and 2 cups heavy

cream. I did this, but have made many quiche successes in the past

with all milk, some milk and some half-and-half, or just a higher

proportion of milk (say, 3 cups) to heavy cream (i.e. 1 cup).

To par-bake or not to par-bake: Par-baking tart shells is, honestly, my

least favorite cooking task. I would rather empty the dishwasher twice

in an afternoon. However, doing so ensures a more crisp, browned

crust. If youre not overly concerned about this, you can skip this step

and just pour the fi l l ing into the chil led unbaked shell. If youd l ike to

go the extra mile, the directions are included. Warning: A 9-inch

pastry ring holds 15 cups of f i l l ing. You will need 15 cups of pie

weights, dried beans or rice (that you dont wish to cook later, as the

toasting will make them take forever to cook) or pennies/loose

change. I used a canister of old rice and pie weights and sti l l came up

an inch short.

Update 4/12/12: After reading a few comments about the softness of

the quiche, I realize it would have been helpful to mention at the

outset that this quiche is a bit softer and creamier than most. Keller

says he prefers his that way. Its l ikely to be less sturdy than many o f

us are used to. For example, in the two Julia Child quiche recipes I

know, the proportion of milk/cream/dairy to the same number of eggs

(6) would be anywhere from 2 to 3 cups, not 4. So, if youre

concerned you may not l ike a softer quiche, you can add another egg

or even two to it.

Buttery Pastry Shell 2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour, plus more for

dusting 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup (2 sicks or 225 grams) very cold

unsalted butter, cut into a small dice 1/4 cup (60 ml) water, ice

cold Neutral oil, for brushing springform

Fill ing 1 tablespoon (15 ml) olive or vegetable oil 2 pounds (905 grams)

mushrooms (see Note up top for suggestions) Salt and freshly ground

black pepper 1 tablespoon (15 grams) unsalted butter 2 shal lots,

minced (I used 4 small because Im a rebel) 1 tablespoon fresh thyme,

minced (use 1 teaspoon only if dried/jarred) 3/4 cup (2 1/2 ounces or

70 grams) Comte, Emmantel or Gruyere, grated 2 cups (475 ml) milk 2cup (475 ml) heavy cream 6 large eggs, l ightly beaten Freshly grated

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nutmeg (optional)

Make buttery shell: In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle

attachment, mix 1 cup of the flour with all of the salt. Then, with the

machine on low speed, add the bits of butter, a handful at a time,

until the butter is completely incorperated. Add the remaining flouruntil just blended, then the cold water until thoroughly incorporated.

Dump dough onto a piece of plastic wrap and form it into a flat, round

disc. Wrap it with the plastic and chil l it for at least one hour,

preferably overnight, and up to two days.

Prepare shell: Set the ring of a 9-inch springform pan, leaving the

hinge open, on a rimmed baking sheet l ined with parchment paper.

Brush the inside of the ring with l ightly with oil and set aside.

Generously flour your counter, then place the chil led, unwrapped

dough on the flour and flour the top of the dough. Roll you dough intoa 16-inch round. The dough is going to be very hard at f irst, but keep

at it, pressing your roll ing pin gently from the center; it wil l get easier

as it stretches out, and its best to start when its very cold as it wil l

remain the coolest/most firm longer. Re-flour your surface as needed,

continually l ifting and rotating your dough to make sure no parts are

sticking. If at any point the dough becomes sticky, soft and, frankly,

annoying, just slide it onto a floured baking sheet and pop it into the

freezer for two minutes for it to cool down again. If it tears, just

overlap the sides of the tear and roll them back together. Dont fret

tiny holes; there will be time to patch later.

You can transfer your dough to the prepared pastry r ing in one of two

ways. Kellers method is to roll it up on your roll ing pin, then unroll it

in the ring. I l ike to gently fold mine into quarters, without creases,

and unfold it in the ring. Gently l ift the edges so that the slack of the

dough drapes in. Press the dough into the corners and up the sides of

the ring. Trim the overhang to 1-inch and please, save your scraps. (I

did not. The ring your see pictured is round t wo. I dont want to talk

about it.) Chil l the pastry shell (and the scraps, so they dont get

mushy) in the fridge for 20 minutes (if par-baking) or until needed (if

not par-baking).

Preheat oven to 325F.

Decide if you want to par-bake your buttery pastry shell: Read the

Note up top first.

To par-bake your pastry shell: Line your chil led buttery pastry shell

with a 14-inch round of parchment paper, or, if your parchment paper

isnt that wide, two sheets in opposite directions. Fil l with pie

weights/dried beans/uncooked rice/loose change and bake in your

preheated oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until l ightly golden at edges.

Carefully remove weights and parchment paper (I did not and thenhad to dust bust uncooked rice stragglers. For the sake of honesty and

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all.) and return shell to oven, baking another 10 to 15 minutes longer,

until richly brown (as per Keller) on bottom. Set aside to cool while

you make your fi l l ing. Leave the oven on.

Prepare fi l l ing: In a very large skil let, heat the oil. Add the

mushrooms, season with salt and pepper and cook over high heat,stirring, until starting to soften, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to

moderate. Add the butter, shallots and thyme and cook, stirring often,

until the mushrooms are tender, about 12 minutes longer. Season with

salt and pepper and let cool.

Assemble quiche: Whether or not your par-baked your buttery pastry

shell, check it for holes or cracks that would cause leakage. If you see

any, seal them with the trimmed scraps from the dough. Scatter 1/4

cup (one-third of) cheese and half the mushrooms in the bottom of

the pastry shell. Either in a blender (Kellers recommendation) or with

a hand whisk (what I did), mix half the milk, cream and eggs with 11/2 teaspoons kosher salt (this seemed like a lot, I us ed less, wish Id

used the full amount), several grinds of black pepper and a pinch of

nutmeg (if using) until frothy. Pour into the pastry shell. Top with

another 1/4 cup of the cheese and remaining mushrooms. Make the

custard again with the remaining eggs/milk/cream and same

seasonings and pour it into the shell. Sprinkle remaining 1/4 cup

cheese on top.

Bake quiche: For 1 1/2 hours, until nicely bronzed on top and the

custard is just set. (My tester came out damp but not eggy; i.e.

clean.) Let cool in pan until warm.

Serve quiche: Using a serrated knife, trim the pastry shell f lush withthe top of the pan. Run your knife around the o utside of the quiche,inside the ring to make sure it s not stuck anywhere. Take a deepbreath. Lift the springform pan ring off the quiche. Applaud. You cantrim your crust further if t heres a big gap between the top and thetop of your crust but you might want to do so more neatly than I did.Cut the quiche into wedges and serve warm, with a del icate greenssalad.