rutas quijote en 2005

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    S p a

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    EUROPEAN COMMUNITY

    European RegionalDevelopment Fund

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    an imposing specta cle.Furthermore, in an effo rt torevive the mo st graph icaspects of local lore a ndmemo ry, the entire itineraryhas been routed along

    highwa ys and b ywa ys in thepublic dom ain, i.e., catt letrails, traditional ways andpat hs, riverbanks and disusedrailway stations.

    Classified a s the long est greenw ay in Europe, the route ca nbe covered o n foo t, horsebackor b icycle, in tha t it is perfectlyeq uipped w ith 100 car pa rkslocated at po ints along theregiona l roa d netw ork, 50mo unt a in-hut -like restfacilities situated in the midstof the countryside, plushundreds of map panels,

    explanato ry notice bo ards andsignpo st ma rkers. Indeed , t hisis an itinerary tha t could in alljustice b e rat ed ha ndicappe d-accessible ,since 70% of th e rout e is

    purpose-designedto affo rd access

    to disabled

    peo ple. Tra vellers w illthus be a ble to visit as

    many as 2,000 points of touristinterest on a route thatcombines art, spirituality,culture and cosmopolitism inthe right proportions. It is nocoincidence that, on gazing

    a cross th e limitless horizons ofCastile-La Mancha, the writer,Jean Coctea u, exclaimed, Atlast I ha ve seen the plan et!

    THE GEOGRAPHIC SETTING OFDON QUIXOTE

    To explore t he Ma nchega ngeog raphy is the ideal w ay tocomprehend the f iner det ailsof Cervantes universe,embodied in the character ofDon Quixot e, roman tic heropar excellence, w ho strove toatt ain ultimate knowledge

    an d w isdom , by riding inpursuit of his sta r along theroads of a region, w hich atthe t ime w as dot ted w ithhostelries, country ho uses andinns, and is now o verflow ingw ith litera ry, cultural a ndenvironme nt al values. Theknight ly cha lleng es and duels

    of that nobleman ofincommen surab le chivalry a ndbonhomie, unfailinglyaccompan ied by the ever loya land practical Sancho Panza,make for a mixed ba g of t alesand anecdotes set a ga inst a

    2

    kilomet re (1550-mile)ecotourism conservationistcorridor, delimited anddefined bycaad as (ancientw ays used by themestas medieval guilds or

    associations of livestockbreeders- to drive their flocksand herds to the w inter andsummer pa stures)

    , catt le trailsan d histo rical rout es, andamounting to a n aw esomecross-section o f scenic ge msand a r t with a capital A .A mosaic of plurality and lifetha t runs through 144 tow nsin Castile-La Mancha andforms the backbone o f thevery core o f t his region,faithfully following the trail ofall the main geo graphicallandma rks linked to thead ventures of Do n Quixote , a

    literary character that has

    taken on a life of its own, tothe point of becoming asymbo l of th e countrysidentity.

    The Do n Quixote Route is

    conceived as agroundbreaking regiona lmodel, for Spain and theEuropean Union as a w hole,intended to become a culturalodyssey on a par w ith the age-old Pilgrims Way t o Sant iagode Compostela (Camino d e Santiago ) or evo cat ive SilverRout e (Rut a de la Plata ).It a ims at connecting thecountless tourist resourcesboth natural and artistic-scat tered a cross the lengt hand breadth o f the Castilian-Manchegan Region, in anorderly manner. Divided into

    ten stretches or legs t hatare designed t o betoured a ndenjoyed at t he

    measured pace ofthe journeys of

    yesteryear, the purposeof t he route is to join

    monumental ensembles and

    rural area s, sights o f scenicinterest a nd spacestransformed by nature into

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    parish church, Don Quixotew as to utter to Sancho thefamo us phrase, w e havecome up ag ainst t he church ,w hilst the w indmills w ho inhis imagina tion a ssumed th eguise of perfidious giant s,belonged to the tow n ofCampo de Cripta na . And th ereis more to come for theMont esinos Cave also a ppearsin the book. Indeed, it w ashere that he met the w izardMerlin, who explained t o him

    the o rigin of t he RuideraLakes, claiming t ha t theseha d a risen by virtue of DoaRuideras da ught ers an dnieces being t ransformed intothe f am ous lago ons. Likew ise,the River Guad iana is theresult of a spell cast b y thew izard o n Duranda rtessquire [Gua diana by nam e],whose grief accounts for

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    backdrop w hose lega cy to usis all the g lory of its ancientroots. A gratifying patchwo rkof h isto ric tow ns and villages

    distinguished by the g oldenrichness of t heir ston e, a stonetha t exudes a flavour trappedon the palate ofremembrance.

    The g allan t a nd implausiblyfa nciful episodes of the m ostinternationa lly renownedSpanish w ork of literatureare framed ag ainstsettings such a s theMedrano Cave.This w as t heformer prisonin the tow n ofArgamasillade Alba ,

    w here, tradition ha s it ,Cervantes beg an w riting DonQuixote, the man fat ed to bedubbed a knight in a w ayside

    hostelry in Puerto Lpice,thanks to a ceremonyperformed by th e inn-keeper -mista kenly assumed by t henoble Don to be a g reat lord-in the presence of t w o Seville-bound w enches or mo zas de partido (a light ly veiledeuphemism for wo men of

    ea sy virtue). His belo vedan d idealisedDulcinea , a

    certa in Aldon zaLorenzo ofmodestorigins, livedin El Tobo so,where,

    opposite the

    the fa ct that t he river appearsand disappears at will.Accordingly, t he pano ply ofcharacters and situations thatconstitute the essence of Do nQuixote occupies a specialplace in Ca stile-La Ma ncha sroll of hono ur.

    Don Quixotes thirst for glory,a dreamer at constan t oddsw ith rea lity, is still very muchalive in this territory haloed inancestral legend and memory.

    A region w ith its ow naesthet ic, converted -tha nksto the nob lehidalgo - into acultural fo cal point ofuniversal renow n (hidalgo ;literally, son of somet hing ,i.e., ge ntry). As the ide a listicManchegan knight-errant sogra phically demo nstrated inhis w anderings utopias areat ta inable.

    C

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    From Toledoto San Clemente via

    El Toboso and Belmonte

    The Don Quixot e Rout e begins in the venerable city o f Toledo,capital of Castile-La Man cha and UNESCO Wor ld Herit age site.

    In this initial section , w alkers w ill have th e chance to discoverth e famou s w indm ills, to w n squares, castles and varied pop ular

    architecture, as w ell as see for t hemselves th e environ ment alrichness that t he lakes provide t hroughou t the area.

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    Yuncos

    Aover de Tajo

    Yepes

    Villarrubiade SantiagoNoblejas

    Santa Cruzde la Zarza Ucls

    Fuente dePedro Naha rro

    Horcajo de Santiago

    Saelices

    Villamayorde Santiago

    Pueblade Almenara

    Villar de Caas

    Los Cortijos

    UrdaCamuas

    Puerto Lpic e

    Villarta de San Jua n

    El Pedernoso

    Las MesasEl Provencio

    Orgaz

    Villatobas

    Tresjuncos

    Santa Ma rade los Llanos

    Manzaneque

    Las Labores

    Torrejoncillodel Rey

    Carrascosadel Campo

    Villaresdel Saz

    Ocaa

    La Puebla

    de Almoradiel

    Taranc n

    ConsuegraMadridejos

    Villarrubiade los Ojos

    Villafranc a delos Cab alleros

    Herencia PedroMuoz

    Las Pedroeras

    Los Ybenes

    Corralde Almaguer

    VillarrobledoSocullamos

    Aranjue z

    La GuardiaAlmonacidde Toledo

    Lillo

    Nambroca

    Mascaraque Tembleque

    Quero El TobosoBelmonte

    Cobisa

    Burguillosde Toledo

    Turleque

    El Romeral

    Dosbarrios

    Villaescusa

    de Haro

    Osa deLa Vega

    Huerta d e Valdecarbanos

    La Albercade Zncara

    Los HinojososMonrealdel Llano

    Fuentelespinode Haro

    Carrascosade Haro

    Radade Haro

    Miguel Esteba n

    Mora

    Villacaas

    Campode Criptana

    Motadel C uervo

    San Clemente

    Quintanarde la Orden

    Alczarde San Juan

    TOLEDO

    Leaving beh ind the na rrow cobbled streets of the old pa rtof Toled o, yo u set outfollow ing the trail tha t a leanmounted gent leman a nd hissquire left along thesetho rough fa res some 400 yearsag o. After pa ssing byNambroca and the AlmonacidCastle o f Toledo, the routesplits into t w o. The mo stnortherly one g oes toLa Gua rdia a nd Lillo, w ithseveral lakes to visit ne a rby,such as Lon ga r an d el Altillo.

    If you ta ke the southern fork,aft er passing throughMascaraq ue, you soon makeout t he out line of t he ruins ofPeas Negras Castle in Mora ,keeping w atch over the roadto Tembleque . In t his to w nyou can stop to take a strollthrough the Main Squa re orPlaza Mayor, one of theloveliest in all La Mancha,with arcades resting on

    granite columns and w oodenga lleries in seventeent h-century style. Villaca a s ca nboa st a special feature know nin Spa nish as silos , i.e.,

    Toled o street

    M ain squar e, Temb lequ e. Toledo

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    an d g at ew ays. This sectionfinishes in San Clement e,famo us for its Plaza Mayoran d o fficially declared a histo ric ensemble f or themonumenta l nature of its

    churches, palaces and stat elyhomes, which have beenpatiently aw aiting w alkers formore th an f our centuries.

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    underground dwellings, whicha re still in use. Tw o n ew turn-offs along the roa d convergeag ain in Campo de Criptanaafter passing through Queroor th e series of lakes atAlcza r de San Jua n, a refug e

    for La Ma nchas variedbirdlife. The land scap esurrounding Mota del Cuervois still overlooked by t hesilhouett es of the a ge-oldw indmills that needed w ind-pow er to defeat Don Quixoteand have made the a reafamous worldwide. You soona rrive in El Tob oso, w herelovely Dulcinea lived una w areof t he fo lly caused by herbeauty, and w here the Museo

    Cervant ino or Cervant esMuseum has the manyeditions of Don Quixote o ndispla y. You ca n pa y a visit t oBelmonte, w ith itsextraordina ry series ofmonum ents, includingimportan t civil and religiousbuildings and an impressivedef ensive enclosure consistingof a castle, defen sive w alls

    Belmon te Castle. Cuenca

    Windm ills in M ota del Cuervo. Cuenca

    El Tob oso. Tole do

    Typical scener y. Alczar d e San Juan. Ciu dad Real

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    El T bMota

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    Bolos

    PARQUE NATURAL DELAS LAGUNAS DE RUIDERA

    Santa Marta

    Sotulamos

    Pinilla

    Vara de Rey

    Sisante

    Barrax

    Lezuza

    Munera

    El Bonillo

    Robledo

    Villanuevade la Fuente

    Ossa de Mo ntiel

    Alhambra

    San Carlosdel Valle

    Ruidera

    Viveros

    Povedilla

    El TobosoEl Pedernoso

    Casasde Lzaro

    El Ballestero

    Santa Ma rade los Llanos

    QueroMota

    del C uervo

    Campode C riptana

    Argamasillade Alba

    La Solana

    Alczarde San Juan

    To me llo so

    Fuenllana

    Villahermosa

    Las Mesas El Provencio

    Villanuevade los Infantes

    Villarrobledo

    Las Pedroeras

    San C lementePedroMuoz

    Socullamos

    Cueva de Montesinos

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    From San Clemente toVillanueva de los Infantesvia the Ruidera LakesBesides allowing visitors to get t o know some of the mo st imp ort ant series of mo num ents in La M ancha, these sites also off er the chance to visit one of the m ost extensive areas of lakes in Spain, an essent ial stop over f or m igrato ry bird s on

    their journey betw een Europ e and Af rica.

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    PARQUE NATURAL DELAS LAGUNAS DE RUIDERA

    Santa Marta

    Sotulamos

    Pinilla

    Vara de Rey

    Sisante

    Barrax

    Lezuza

    Munera

    El Bonillo

    Robledo

    Alcaraz

    Villanuevade la Fuente

    Ossa de Montiel

    Montiel

    Alhambra

    San Carlosdel Valle

    Ruidera

    Viveros

    Povedilla

    El TobosoEl Pedernoso

    Casasde Lzaro

    El Ballestero

    Santa Marade los Llanos

    Quero del Cuervo

    Campode Criptana

    Argamasillade Alba

    La Solana

    Alczarde San Juan

    Tom e llos o

    Fuenllana

    Villahermosa

    Las Mesas El Provencio

    Villanuevade los Infantes

    Villarrobledo

    Las Pedroeras

    San ClementePedroMuoz

    Socullamos

    Cueva de Montesinos

    Althoug h travellerscan choose fromamo ng three branchesin San Clemente, it isad visable to start inthe d irection of LasPedroera s across land

    San Clemen te. Cuen ca

    ao 2005

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    in the Sant o DomingoMona stery, w hich now provides touristaccommod at ion. The tow n isstudded w ith churches,convents and stately homes,such as the House of Diego deMiranda, w ho, according totradition, w as the famousKnight o f the Green Gaba n(tunic), w hose fe at s Cervantesso often ha d Don Quixotepraise.

    tha t can quite rightly boast ofproducing the best g arlic inSpain. Then hea d w estw ardsto visit Lake Ped ro Muo z.Back on the ma in section, youwill come to El Provencio,surrounded b y the w aters ofthe River Zncara. From t here,the Don Quixote Routecontinues on its way to w ardsVillarrobledo, which conservesimportan t remains of its past,such a s the Plaza Mayor (MainSquare) and t he churches ofSan Blas an d San Sebastin,along w ith many w ine cellars,a sta ple of the local econo my.

    Here, w ine is still sto red a s itused to be hundreds of yearsag o, in huge ancient vatsmade of local earth.

    Further south, a round Ossa de

    Montiel, are tw o places tha tw ere particularly importa nt inDon Quixot es adventures:ma gical Montesinos Cave,w here he went back in time,an d the ruins of Rocha fridaCastle. Nearby is Lagunas deRuidera Nat ural Park, adelight ful series of te ctoniclakes which a re now protectedfor their scenic importanceand for the large amount o fwildlife they host, includingred-crested po chard a ndma rsh ha rrier. Once ag ain enroute, a little further on, youw ill be able to make out t heout line o f Villan ueva d e losInfantes, officially recognisedas a historic ensemble for itsimportan ce as a Rena issancea nd Ba rroq ue site. This isw here Quevedo died, in a cell

    Villarrobledo. Albacete

    Mo nt esino s Cave. Albacete Ruider a Lakes. Ciudad Real

    Villanu eva de los Infan tes.Ciudad Real

    Rochaf rida. Ossa de Mon tiel. Alb acete

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    J a b a l n

    G u a d a l n J a

    n d u l a

    A z u e r

    1001

    1087

    Bolos

    1117

    Atalayade la Calzada

    PARQUE NATURAL DELAS LAGUNAS DE RUIDERA

    PARQUE NACIONALDE LAS

    TABLAS DE DAIMIEL

    Solanadel Pino

    San Lorenzode C alatrava

    Puente de Gnave

    Villahermosa

    Villanuevade San Carlos

    Montiel

    Alhambra

    Ruidera

    Carrinde Calatrava

    Fernn C aba llero

    Fuenllana

    Santa Cruz delos Cnamos

    Puebladel Prncipe

    Terrinches

    Czar

    Pozuelo de Calatrava

    Corral deCalatrava

    Poblete

    Valenzuelade Calatrava

    Argamasillade Ca latrava

    Miguelturra

    Daimiel

    Argamasillade Alba

    La Solana

    Malagn To me llos o

    CIUDAD REAL

    Valdepe as

    Calzadade Calatrava

    AlmagroBolaos

    de Ca latrava

    Moralde Calatrava

    ManzanaresMembrilla

    Santa Cruzde Mudela

    Villanuevade los Infantes

    Aldea del Rey

    Grantulade Calatrava

    San Carlosdel Valle

    Castellarde Santiago

    Viso de lMarqus

    Almuradiel

    Villamanrique

    Torre de J uan Abad Almedina Torrenueva

    Convento-castillo de Calatrava la Nueva

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    Heading in a south erlydirection, leaving be hind themonum ents of Villan ueva de

    los Infantes, the road makesits w ay dow n to solitary

    Mont izn Castle in themunicipality of Villamanrique,where anyone who

    approa ches its wa lls can enjoythe lovely panora mic view of

    From Villanueva de losInfantes to Almagro andCalatrava la Nueva

    The third sector o f t he route t akes you t o th e boundaries ofLa Mancha, through the remot e corners of mo untain rangesto w hich the Knight, Don Quixote, retired in order to pon der his new and reckless undertakin gs.

    the River Guadaln at theirfeet, flow ing a midst thickMediterranean woodland,w here lynx, imperial ea glean d b lack sto rk still range .Travellers sho uld th en h ea dnorth tow ards the vast plainsof La Mancha . Further on, youare faced with tw o options: togo t ow ards Sant a Cruz deMudela or Almuradiel. Other histo ric ensembles in the

    area are Moral de Calatra va

    Black sto rk

    Mo ntizn Castle. Villamanrique.Ciud ad Real

    Villanu eva de los Infan tes.Ciudad Real

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    de Comedias (open-airthea tre). The rout e end s in t heSacred Monastery-Castle ofCalatrava la Nueva in Aldea

    del Rey, from w here the pea ksof Sierra Morena a re onceag ain visible in the dista nce.

    an d Viso d el Marqus, w iththe impressive pala ce of t hefirst Ma rquis of Santa Cruz,w hich, in spite of be ing so farfrom the sea, now adayshouses the National Archivesof the Span ish Navy.Returning t o the main pathan d crossing La CabezuelaReservoir, travellers will beable to make out Valdepeas

    amid a sea of vines. A visit tothe coo l of th e Church of LosTrinitarios and to the w inecella rs is a m ust. Cont inuingnorthw ards, visitors shouldnot m iss the chan ce to ta ke a

    pleasant stroll through thePlaza Mayor of San Carlos delValle, where time seems toha ve stood still. Following thecourse of th e River Azuer,dott ed w ith wa ter mills, yousoon reach Manza nares,formerly a crossroa ds on t hedrover roads of the Medievallivestock farmers associationcalled La Mesta a nd now ada ysthe hub of t he ent ire district.Make your wa y westwa rds toAlmagro , a histo ricensemble , who se interestingsight s include t he Plaza Mayor(Main Squa re) an d th e Corral

    Main square, Alm agro. Ciudad Real

    Viso d el M arq us. Ciu dad Real

    Vineyards. San Carlos del Valle. Ciudad Real

    Vald epeas. Ciu dad Real

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    This w a lk sta rts inFuencaliente, w hosebeneficial spa w ater g averise to its na me, w hichmeans hot spring . Besidesthe enjoyable spa, ma ny

    cave paintings in the areaalso merit your attent ion a sthey contain some of theoldest remains testifying tothe presence of peo ple inCastile-La Mancha, e.g. thePea Escrita Paintings a ndLa Ba ta nera Cave. Fromthere, a turn-off allow svisitors to g et t o know LaBienvenida Archae olog icalSite a nd t he scenery of th eSierra de Alcudia. Further

    on, a new turn-off leads toBraza to rta s. This sector ha sma ny off-shoo ts, but it isbest to continue in a spiraland fol low the roadeastw ards to the largetow ns of Almodvar del

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    From Valle de Alcudia toCampo de Calatrava

    This sectio n, brimm ing w ith places and sights related w ith Cervan tes, can boast ancestral hu man p resence, spa w ater,volcanoes, M editerranean w ood land and d ehesas (grassland dot ted w ith t rees), as w ell as vast tracts of vines, olive trees and cereal fields dot ted w ith castles and f ort resses th at are milestones in Spanish history.

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    Lagunade lArquillo

    J a r d n

    G u a

    d a l m e n

    a

    Almenara

    1798

    101257

    Roble

    PARQUE NATURAL DELAS LAGUNAS DE RUIDERA

    Santa Marta

    Sotulamos

    Pozo Ca

    Pinilla

    Rip ar Viejo

    Reo lid

    Barrax

    La Gineta

    Pozuelo

    Pozohondo

    Alcadozo

    Bogarra Ayna

    Litor

    MolinicosElche

    Ripar

    Lezuza

    Munera

    El Bonillo

    Robledo

    Alcaraz

    Albaladejo

    Villanuevade la Fuente

    Ossa d e Mo ntiel

    Balazote

    Montiel

    Viveros

    VillapalaciosSalobre

    Bienservida

    Vianos

    Povedilla

    Casasde Lzaro

    La Herrera

    El Ballestero

    Helln

    ALBAC ETE

    Pea Escrit a . Ciud ad Real

    Olive gro ves. Toled o

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    Calatrava la NuevaM onastery-Castle. Ciudad Real

    2 0

    Campo and Puertollano,w ith their importantexamples of industrialmining-related architecture.Once past Villanueva de SanCarlos, two branchesconfront e ach ot her, as theirtw o fa mous fortificationsalso a ppear to do . One, theSacred Monastery-Castle ofCalatrava la Nueva in Aldeadel Rey, built in t hethirteenth century, ha sthree w alled enclosures an da church belonging to themona stery that t he Ordermaintained there. Not faraw ay a re the ruins of

    Salvat ierra Castle in Calzad ade Calatrava, built over anIslamic fo rtress, w hich inturn wa s erected on aRoma n site. The roa d no w runs close to ColumbaVolcano in Gran tula de

    Calatrava, w here you canvisit th e Chapel of t heVirgen de Zuqueca, veryimportant in archeologicalterms for the rema ins ofVisigothic stelae found

    there and a Bronze Ageburial site. In Va lenzuela deCalatrava this sectionmerges w ith No. 8.Continue as far as Poblete,and then head southwa rdsto Almod var del Campo ,w here there are furtherimportan t Pa laeolithic sitessuch a s Lake Reta ma r.After turning northw ards atLa Nava, the route e nds inCorral de Calatrava across alandscape tha t conta ins themost importa nt craters andvolcan ic fea tures in thedistrict.

    From Albaceteto Alcaraz andBienservida

    From Albacete, the m ost populated m unicipality in Castile-La M ancha, and af ter taking partial advantage of the platfo rm of the Baeza- Utiel railw ay line, w hich w as never inaugurated, this route heads into th e leafy vegetation of a mountain rang e called Sierra de Al carz as f aras th eboundaries w ithSierra M orena.

    Winery. Almodvar del Campo.Ciudad Real

    Albacete Cathedral

    320310

    A-313 5

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    Santa Marta

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    2 3

    Cortes, an importa nt centrefor pilgrimag e, and the to w ncentre, whose many examplesof architecture include t he

    Church of la SantsimaTrinidad, the Plaza Mayor orMain Squa re, Lonja d elCorreg ido r, El Ta rd n Tow erand the long Calle Mayor orMain Street, w ith emblazonedsta tely ho mes. Finally, a crossthe Sierra de Alcar z, youa rrive in Bienservid a . The re isthe chance to visit Reolid Spaon t he ba nks of t he RiverAngo sillo, very close to t he

    protected micro-reserve ofEl Estrecho del Hocino RiverCanyon, a refuge for ott ers,w here the peaceful w atersare an o pen invitation totake a dip.

    2 2

    Before starting o ut, travellersshould discover some of thema ny surprises aw aiting t hemin Albacete, including theCathed ral and ProvincialMuseum, with importantsections devoted to

    archaeology, ethnology, thedecorat ive a rts and prehisto ry.Any reference t o Albacetemust n ecessarily include amention o f the mo st symbolicproducts among its localcraf tsmanship, i.e. variouskinds of knives and scissors, onsale in ma ny local shops. From

    here, visitors should make forBalazote, w hich ow es its

    internationa l fame t o thediscovery nearby of asculpture tha t is rega rded a s apiece d e resistan ce of Iberianart. Know n as the Bicha deBalazo te , it depicts a restingbull w ith the head of a

    bearded man, and wa sprobably part of t hedecoration of a t emple.Continuing along the ba nks ofthe River Jardn, you cross tw onotable wetlands: Lake Ojosde Villa verde a nd LakeArquillo prior to reachingRobledo . In t he environs of

    Alcaraz you will come acrossthe Sanctua ry of the Virgen de

    322

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    Emb.de lCena jo

    Emb.de Talave

    Emb. deLa Fuensanta

    LagunaOjos de Villave rde

    Lagunade lArquillo

    J a r d n

    G u a d

    a l m

    e n a

    Almenara

    1798

    10701257

    Roble

    PARQUE NATURAL DELAS LAGUNAS DE RUIDERA

    Sotulamos

    Pozo Caad a

    Argue llite

    Pinilla

    Rip a r Viejo

    Reo lid

    Barrax

    La Gineta

    Pozuelo

    Pozohondo

    Alcadozo

    BogarraAyna

    Litor

    MolinicosElche

    de la Sierra

    YesteLetur

    SocovosPuente

    de Gnave Siles

    Ripar

    Lezuza

    Munera

    El Bonillo

    Robledo

    Alcaraz

    Albaladejo

    Villanuevade la Fuente

    Ossa de Montiel

    Balazote

    Montiel

    Viveros

    VillapalaciosSalobre

    Bienservida

    Vianos

    Povedilla

    Casasde Lzaro

    La Herrera

    El Ballestero

    Helln

    ALBACETE

    M ain squar e, Alcaraz.Albacete

    Bicha d e Balazote. Albacete

    a o 2005

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    25

    You set of f from La Roda , hubof communications w ith theeast of the Pen insula.This tow ns street s cont aingood examples of civil andreligious architecture.

    Heading south, travellers willfind at Munera a branch routefrom San Clemente going toLos Cam pos de Mo ntiel.Along this section t here is asurprising number of typicalvaulted circular stoneconstructions called cucos , cubillos or chozos ,

    24

    From La Roda toLos Campos de Montiel

    North of Albacete, the La Mancha plain can also surprise w alkers w ith lo vely river canyons such as tho se the River Jcar has etched out w ith in finit e patience.

    310

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    Emb.de Guada lmena

    J a b a

    l n

    G u a d

    a l n

    Almenaras

    1798

    1001

    1257

    Roble

    1087

    Bolos

    PARQUE NATURAL DELAS LAGUNAS DE RUIDERA

    Santa Marta

    Sotu lamos

    Rip ar Viejo

    Pinilla

    Barrax

    La Gineta

    Pozuelo

    Alcadozo

    Bogarra Ayna

    Molinicos

    Elchede la Sierra

    LeturSiles

    Ripar

    Castellarde Santiago

    Ossa d e Mo ntiel

    Balazote

    Montiel

    Alhambra

    San Carlosdel Valle

    Ruidera

    VillapalaciosSalobre

    Bienservida

    Vianos

    Las MesasEl Provencio

    Casasde Lzaro

    La Herrera

    Czar

    PedroMuoz

    Villarrobledo

    Argamasillade Alba

    Socullamos

    Villanuevade los Infantes

    La Solana

    Alc zarde San Juan

    Tom e llo so

    Munera

    El Bonillo

    Robledo

    Alcaraz

    El Ballestero

    ViverosPovedilla

    Villamanrique

    Torre de J uan Abad Almedina

    Puebladel Prncipe

    Villanuevade la Fuente

    VillahermosaFuenllana

    Lezuza

    Albaladejo

    Terrinches

    Santa Cruz de los Cnamos

    La Roda

    Rush w ickerwork. Alb acete

    La Roda. A lbacete

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    26

    some of the m still in use,w here local shepherds usedto ta ke shelter. Along t hepath, t wo lateral turn-offssoon a ppear leading to thenea rby villag es of El Bonilloand Lezuza, bo th w ell-know nfor t heir high-quality craft smade of esparto grass andw ickerw ork. The la tt er is alsoan important archaeological

    site, w here you can see theremains of a n ancient Roma nroad . After crossing an a rea oflakes and befo re reachingEl Ballestero, this section splitsinto tw o. One branch headsfo r Pinilla a nd its salt mines,joining up a little furth er onw ith Section No. 2 linking

    San Clemente and Villanueva

    de los Infa nt es. The o the rbranch leads to Robledoand from there, af ter passingthrough Alcaraz, alongthe course of the RiverGuadalmena, it continues toPovedilla in the Los Cam posde Montiel district. Afterflanking the tow n bo undaries,the route links up nearTorre de Jua n Abad w ith

    Section No. 3 so yo u shouldcarry on unt il in Villah ermosayou come a cross a turn-offto the end of the route.Here you w ill find the remainsof La Estrella Castle, ne arMontiel, the place that , inspite of b eing just a smallvillag e, ga ve its name t o a n

    entire landscape.

    From Campo de Criptana toTomelloso, Argamasilla deAlba and La Solana

    Campo de M ont iel. Ciudad Real

    The advent ures of t he Ingenious Knight cover the heart of La Mancha from north to south on t his route, w hich begins in Campo de Criptana at t he foot of the f amous wind mills set on the r ises of th e Sierra de la Paz moun tain ran ge.

    Campo de Cript ana. Ciudad Real

    Although the Campode Criptana areaonce had as many as34 windm ills, t heidentifying symbolof the district,

    now ada ys there are

    Tom elloso. Ciudad Real

    400

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    Escalonilla Mocejn Yepes

    H j d S tiHuerta de

    ValdecarbanosVillatobas

    Dosbarrios

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    28

    uncommon to spot steppebirds such as g reat bustards,stone curlew s and littlebustards. A narrow turn-offta kes you t o Tome lloso,w hich still conserves ma nytestimonies to its past, such asthe Po sad a d e los Portales,and w here you can visit the

    museum dedicated tolocal-born painter AntonioLp ez Torre s. The ma in ro ut econtinues, offering a n ew turn-off to Arga masilla deAlba, a tow n tha t developedin the shelter of the nea rbycastles of Pearroya a ndArgam asilla. Medrano Cave,

    w here Cervantes wa s heldprisoner, da tes from t hat

    A-4

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    A l g o d o r

    A D I A N A

    1419

    rral de C antos

    1084877

    1010

    Machero822

    1087

    Bolos

    826

    PARQUE NACIONALDE LAS

    TABLAS DE DAIMIEL

    PARQUE NACIONALDE CABAEROS

    ElMo linillo

    Tajo

    ahermosa

    Poln

    Villanuevade Bogas

    Glvez

    Cuervan Martn

    Montalbn

    Menasalbas

    Horcajo de Santiago

    Retuertadel Bullaque

    coba Los Cortijos

    El RobledoPorzuna

    Luciana

    Abenjar

    Alhambra

    UrdaCamuas

    El Toboso

    Valdecarbanos

    La Guardia

    Lillo Tembleque

    Pozuelo de C alatrava

    NambrocaDosbarrios

    El Romeral

    Turleque

    Las Labores

    Arenasde San Juan

    Corral

    Alcolea de Calatrava

    Cabezarados

    Poblete

    Miguel Esteban

    Quero

    La Pueblade Mo ntalbn

    Sonsec a L a Pueblade A lmoradiel

    Miguelturra

    Madridejos Villafranc a delos Cab alleros Campo

    de C riptana

    VillacaasLos Ybenes

    Corralde A lmaguer

    ManzanaresMembrilla

    Moralde Calatrava

    Bolaosde Ca latrava

    Argamasillade Alba

    La Solana

    Piedrabuena

    Mora

    Alc za rd e Sa n Jua n

    To m e llo s o

    TO LEDO

    C IUDAD REAL

    Consuegra

    Herencia

    Daimiel

    Almagro

    Malagn

    Villarrubiade los Ojos

    CobisaBurguillos de Toledo

    OrgazMascaraque

    Almonacidde Toledo

    Manzaneque

    Puerto Lpic e

    Villarta de San J uan

    Carrinde Calatrava

    Fernn C aba llero

    Fuente e l Fresno

    Valenzuela

    O N T E S D E T O L E

    D O

    Parque Arqueolgico de Alarcos

    Maar volcnico de Hoya de Cervera

    Cruz de Piedra

    period. Lege nd ha s it t hat itwa s there that he beganwriting the adventures ofthe Inge nious Knight.

    A fork along th e route ta kesvisitors to Pearroya castleand reservoir and to LasLag unas de Ruidera NaturalPark, consisting of a series ofte ctonic lakes, in some caseslinked by small w at erfalls, an dboa sting considerable b irdlife.You w ill have to g o ba ck to

    the main path to g et toLa Solana, w ith its importantexamples of architecture fromfour centuries ag o, w hen itw as an important La Mesta*tra ding centre. They includethe House of Don Diego,the fo rmer Palace of theCounts of Casa Valiente, whichnow houses the tourist o fficeand an exhibition room, an d,ab ove all, the Plaza Mayoror Main Squa re. Now ada ys, alarge pa rt of the income ofth is villag e de rives from a

    small purple flow er w ithyellow stamens which thew orld over proudly goe s bythe name o f saffron.

    * Med ieval livestock farme rs guild

    Ruidera Lakes. Ciud ad Real

    Posada de los Portales Inn.Tom elloso. Ciudad Real

    M edrano Cave.Arg amasilla de Alba. Ciud ad Real

    La Solan a. Ciudad Real

    only 10, the most fa mousbeing the so-called Burleta .From here, travellers cross avast flat plain covered incereal fields where it is not

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    30

    R-4

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    A l g o d o r

    R i a

    n s a

    r e

    s

    G U A D I A N A

    1419

    Corral de Cantos

    1084877

    1010

    Machero822

    1087

    Bolos

    826

    PARQUE NACIONALDE LAS

    TABLAS DE DAIMIEL

    PARQUE NACIONALDE CABAEROS

    ElMo linillo

    El Carpiode Tajo

    Escalonilla Mocejn

    Bargas

    Yepes

    Navahermosa

    Poln

    Villanuevade Bogas

    Glvez

    CuervaSan Martn

    de Montalbn

    Menasalbas

    Horcajo de Santiago

    Retuertadel Bullaque

    Alcoba Los Cortijos

    El RobledoPorzuna

    Luciana

    Abenjar

    Alhambra

    UrdaCamuas

    El Toboso

    Huerta de Valdecarbanos

    La Guardia

    Lillo Tembleque

    Pozuelo de Calatrava

    Nambroca

    Villatobas

    Dosbarrios

    El Romeral

    Turleque

    Las Labores

    Arenasde San Juan

    Corralde C alatrava

    Alcolea de Calatrava

    Cabezarados

    Poblete

    Villamayor de C alatrava

    Miguel Esteban

    Quero

    La Pueblade Mo ntalbn

    Torrijos

    Sonseca L a Pueb lade A lmoradiel

    Miguelturra

    MadridejosVillafranc a delos Cab alleros Campo

    de C riptana

    VillacaasLos Ybenes

    Corralde A lmaguer

    ManzanaresMembrilla

    Moralde Calatrava

    Bolaosde Ca latrava

    Argamasillade Alba

    La Solana

    Piedrabuena

    Mora

    A l c z a rd e Sa n J u a n

    Va l d e p e a s

    To m e l lo s o

    TO LEDO

    C IUDAD REAL

    Consuegra

    Herencia

    Daimiel

    Almagro

    Malagn

    Villarrubiade los Ojos

    CobisaBurguillos de Toledo

    OrgazMascaraque

    Almonacidde Toledo

    Manzaneque

    Puerto Lpic e

    Villarta de San Jua n

    Carrinde Calatrava

    Fernn C aba llero

    Fuente e l Fresno

    Valenzuelade Calatrava

    M O N T E S D E T O L E

    D O

    Parque Arqueolgico de Alarcos

    Maar volcnico de Hoya de Cervera

    Cruz de Piedra

    From Almagro to Toledovia Ciudad Real andConsuegra

    The walk starts on t he banks of t he River Jabaln, wh ich prov ides coun tless vestiges of its past volcanic activ ity in th e shape of craters and lake basins. It is furro w ed by o ld dro ver roads, wh ich are still used by m igratin g herds and f locks,accusto med to t he high- speed train bu t still fearing fresh att acks by the Knigh t of the Sad Coun tenance.

    At t he start of this sectiontravellers can takeadvantage of a bicycle lanefor over 25 km, and aft erpa ssing Ciruela Castle,continue on towards Ciudad

    Real along a ra ilw ay linethat crosses one of LaManchas many volcanicarea s -the so-called volcanicMaar of Hoya de Cervera. InCiuda d Real the road f orksright tow ards Carrin deCalatrava, fa mous in oldentimes fo r its springs of

    medicinal waters, where thebest conserved mediaevalremains in Spain ha ve beenfound , comprising a w alledenclosure, fo rtress, church,

    Toledo hills

    Venta d e Don Quijo te. Puert o Lpice. Ciudad Real

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    intramural town, burialground a nd pot teries.Tog eth er wit h rema ins in the

    nea rby locality of Poblete,they make up AlarcosArchaeo logical Park .Finally,you a rrive in Da imiel, inw ho se environ s is La s Ta bla sde Daimiel National Park,one of the most importantw etla nds in Spa in. The pa rk,declared a Special ProtectionArea fo r Birds (SPA), con sists

    of small lakes supplied b yspates of the Guadiana andCig ela rivers. It ha s aReception Centre and asystem of w ooden w alkwa ysover the wa ter, w hich make

    it possible t o g etcomforta bly close to Nat ure.From here you hea dnorthwards to Consuegraalong the former CaminoReal de Andaluca, whichcrosses the Sierra deMalagn, where a new t urn-off lead s to Cruz de Piedra.

    This is th e Mo nt es de Toled o,doma in of t he scarce lynx,ott er and deer. FromConsuegra , alwa ys in thew at chful presence of ahan dful of w indmills sethigh on t he bluffs, you w illfind a new turn-offbranching to t he right . It w illta ke you to Herencia a nd

    Villarta de San Juan via

    Puerto Lp ice, w hich ismentioned several times inDon Quixote and whosestreets, squares and shopsretain the at mosphere ofCervantes time. Afterarriving in Consuegra, a ndta king the so-called Sendade los Espao les , you g othrough Manzaneque and

    branch off to Orgaz.,

    Declared a historicensemble , this tow n stillhas remains of a n Arab w alland a tw elfth-centuryfo rtress. Journe ys end isToledo , wh ere w erecommend tha t you ta ketime t o e njoy its richheritage.

    Consuegra. Toled o

    Tablas de Daimiel w etlan ds. Ciudad Real

    Tablas de Daimiel w etlan ds. Ciudad Real

    R-4

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    Torrejn dela Ca lzada

    GrionBatres

    Va ld e m o ro

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    to Ugena, the routecontinues in a w esterlydirection to Carranq ue,w hose municipality conta insthe Roman villa of Mat erno,famous for its mosaics.

    34

    This sho rt t rip be g ins inEsquivias, the to w n w hereCervantes wife, Cata lina dePala cios, w as bo rn. It is alsowhere they were married in1584 and resided for a whilein the so-called Casa deCervantes , Now housing amuseum, this typicalsixteenth-century farmhouseconserves its orig inalstructure of tw o floors and apatio corral . As if t ime ha dstood still in the se places sofar from the hustle andbustle of the modern w orld,

    partridges, rab bits and h arespause to ta ke a curious look

    a t pa ssers-by. The ro ut e verysoon reache s Illescas, w hichalwa ys knows how towelcome tired travellers inthe m ann er they deserve, itbeing no coincidence tha t itw as a roya l residence in thetw elfth century. Its manybuildings include the UgenaGate, the belltow er of theChurch of Nuestra Seora d ela Asuncin, know n a s the Giralda de la Sagra , andthe Hospital-Sanctuary ofLa Caridad, w ith an altarpieceand other paintings by

    El Greco. After offering achance for a short diversion

    From Esquivias to Illescasand CarranqueNorth of Toledo, t he La Sagra district invit es visito rs toenjoy a visit to t he hou se w here Cervant es lived inEsquivi as, th e art o f El Greco in Illescas and Carranq ue Archaeo log ical Park.

    A-42

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    G u a d

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    Recas

    Lomichar

    Palomeque

    Cedillodel Condado

    El Visode San Juan

    Casarrubuelos

    Cubas dela Sagra

    Sesea

    Borox

    Torrejnde Velasco

    Yuncos Numanciade la Sagra

    Va ld e m o ro

    Carranque

    Ugena

    Yeles

    Esquivias

    Illescas

    Parque Arqueolgico de Carranque

    Cervant es Ho use. Esquivia s. Tole do

    Discovered in 1983, it is now part of a n Archaeo logicalPark along w ith otherremains.

    M osaic. Carranqu e Archaeolo gical Park

    a o 2005

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    36

    A-2

    C M - 1 1 0

    C M

    - 1 0 1

    C M - 1 0

    0 1

    C M -1 0 0 3

    S O - 1 3 2

    111

    H e n a

    r e s

    SierraMinistra

    1310

    PARQUE NATURAL DELBARRANCO DEL RO DULCE

    Palazuelos

    ImnSantamera

    La Torresa vian

    J adraque

    Saca

    Alcoleadel Pinar

    Torremochadel Campo

    Mandayona

    Negredo

    Rebollosade Jadraque

    Luzaga

    Baides

    Embalsede Alcorlo

    Embalse d eElAtanc e

    J irueque

    Matillas

    Santiuste

    YeloSalinas

    de RiendaAtienza Cincovillas

    Alcolea delas Peas

    Tordelrba no

    Paredes de SigenzaValdelcubo

    Sienes

    La Olmedade Jadraque

    Riofrodel Llano

    Sigenza

    El Don cel. Sigenza Cathed ral. Guadalajar a

    Upp er reaches of t he River Tagus. Guadalajar a

    From La Hoz del Ro Dulceto Sigenza and Atienza

    The last itin erary on t he Don Quixo te Rout e enables travellers to get to know the rich natural landscape of the northern bou ndary o f Castile-La Mancha, w hich still has interesting examples of Romanesque architecture.

    Setting off from the fo ot ofLa Torre savi n Cast le, youcont inue a cross El Barran codel Ro Dulce* Nat ural Pa rk,w hich served as the na turalba ckdrop for th e filming ofman y television prog rammesby f amo us Spanish nat uralistand broad caster Flix

    Rodrguez d e la Fuente.

    The pa rks cliffs a re st ill alivewith a ll the a ttractive andimportant features of thefauna and f lora that hemanag ed to convey toviewers with such feeling.A little further on you arrivein Sigenza , a tow n tha t stillcan still boa st of its former

    riches, w ith stylish h ouses, a

    a o 2005

    * River Dulce Gorg e

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    3938

    fortified to w ers access thetown. From Olmeda deJadra que, a small diversionleads to Santamera on th ebanks of El Atance Reservoir,and , finally, to the smallvillag e of Imn, fa mous forits Roma n salt mines, on cethe mo st importa nt in Spain.

    monumental cathedral anda castle. Many are thetreasures tha t w alkers willbe able to find here. A visitto t he peaceful figure ofEl Doncel, eterna lly read ingin the poor light of th eChapel o f los Arce, is not tobe missed. At this point tw obranches converge on t heRienda Saltw orks., One go eseastw ards via Sienes andValdelcubo, w hile th e ot herruns westw ards, passingfirstly t hrough Palazuelos,w hich is complete lysurrounded by a w all whosefour gat ewa ys with sturdy

    The rou te e nds in Atienza ,the old part of w hich hasbeen declared a historicensemb le as it stillpreserves the o ld wa ll tha tused to defend the tow n,

    and t w o ga tew ays. TheArrebata capas Gat eseparates the tw o mostimportant squa res in the

    to w n. The Plaza del Trigo, isparticularly interesting w ithits arcad es, emblazonedstately homes, town hall andman y other sixteent h-century buildings.

    At ienza Castle. Guadalajara

    Plaza del Trigo . Atien za. Guadalaj ara

    Palazuelo s Castle. Guadalajar a

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    41

    (cochinillo ) and lamb (cordero )prove to b e an e xercise in goo dtaste, as do the many stews andcasseroles flavoured with gamefrom t he hunt , especially theexquisite partridge in marinade,w hich in the restaurant s ofToledo a tta ins the cat eg ory of agastronomic event of the firstorder. Dishes ba sed on t hematanza (an a nnual event, oftenin late autumn, w hen fa miliesga ther to help in the slaughterand but chering of a pig or tw o)is anot her option to b e highlyrecommended , w ith sugg estionsof a mo re traditional nature,such asajopringue (a piqua ntga rlic and olive o il paste usuallyserved with pota toes) and t heno-nonsensemorteruelo (hare,chicken, cured ha m a nd pigsliver choppe d an d braised w ithseasoning and breadcrumbs).

    Cervant es narrat ive reflects a

    goo d number of ideas aboutfood and meals which a re still

    just as contemporary today,some four hund red yea rs later.The classicsopa de ajo (a soup,usually served in ea rthenw aredishes, mad e of fried ga rlic,bread a nd egg ) continues to bea t empting invitat ion, as doduelos y quebrantos , made ofpieces of t oast, fried egg s, baconan d ha m. Trying the Valdepe astiznao , a dish made o f flakedcod, peppers, onions and t heinevita ble g arlic is simply a must for a ll fish lovers.

    The sw eets chapter offers aha ndfu l of local specialities andhome-made desserts that a re atribute t o t he imaginat ion. It is agoo d idea t o leave some spacefor Toledo marzipan (mazapn ),imbued with the gourmetmajesty of simple th ings, thetart a de chicharrones(cracklingpie), honey-based sweetmeatsandbizcochos bor rachos

    (sq uares of spong e cake soakedin a n alcohol-flavoured syrup), a

    Local cuisine andhandicrafts

    The extrao rdinary ga stronomicrepertoire of Castile-La Manchais ba sed on a cuisine w ith adistinctive spark an d personality,one tha t covers a w ide rang e ofpossibilities and caters to allta stes. The reg ional recipe boo kincludes a variety of f ood s basedon ca reful selection of f resh

    ingredient s, e.g., green s,vegetab les and the t astilyseasoned aubergines ofAlmagro. Devotees of heartierfa re w ill deligh t in the cheeringchoice of dishes on o ffer,outstanding examples of w hichare: the e xquisitegazpacho manchego (not the b etter-know n Andalusian cold soup,but a shepherdstorta , a rough-

    and-ready doug h made fromflour, salt an d w ater, eaten w ithmeat) enriched w ith ga me, wild

    rabbit or hare; the traditionalgachas andmigas , a fry made onw ith diced bread , garlic and t heregions delicious oil; a nd theindispensabletorreznos(rashersof ba con).

    The b lackboa rd list ofrecommended entres features a

    broad range of proposals, mainlyinvolving mea t of some kind,dressed a nd prepa red in allflavours, textures andcombinat ions possible. A flavour-and-savour cuisine, directlytarget ing the stomach, yettranscending the b ounds of foodpure and simple to become aculinary w ork of art. The localroast goa t (cabrito ), sucking pig

    LEISURE AND ENTERTAINMENT

    Cheese p latter. Alm agro

    Typical dish (moje de t omat e). Albacete

    Oth l i t tii t f f tl

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    43

    Other n o less interestingpossibilities are to be f ound inthe ha nd-w oven rugs andta pestries of Sigenza , the rushw ickerwork or the typical doiliesmade in the w orkshops of

    Alma gro. The textile sector too isactive and includes thetraditionalmantillas , and thelace and a ttractive linen w arefrom the villag e of Lag artera,known a s the cradle ofembroidery. Special mentionmust be ma de o f the Toledosword s -steel blade s of

    exceptional qua lity tha t a re thedirect descend ant s an d heirs ofthose same w eapons once borneby Don Quixote himself du ringhis exploits through out t heregion- and t he knives ofAlba cete, gen uine meta l icons ofth e provincial capita l. The knife -ma king secto r is still very muchalive an d bo oming, conserving atradition handed dow n by theMoors, one in which theimmemorial metho ds of carvinghaft s out of b ull or deer hornare, to the b uyers sat isfa ction,combined with modernmanufa cturing methods.

    Festivals and folklore

    The tried a nd t ested cordiality ofthe Ma nchegans reaches apinnacle as the festive calenda rgradua lly unfolds from tow n to

    tow n in a rosary of celebrations,religious and profane,

    celebrations that have becomeinextricably tangled do w n theages and have come down to usin the mo st diverse guises andnuances. A series of rites steepedin symbo lism, which becom e afocal point for people to meetand g ather together, withentertainment and goo dcompan y. On 22nd January,shortly after the b eginning ofthe new year, Sigenza g oes toextraordinary lengths tocommemorate the seizure of thetow n from t he Moorish invadersin 1124, a ma gnificent eventofficially declared of to uristinterest and characterised by thetrad itional St. Vincents Daybonfires. In the month ofFebrua ry, it is the turn o f t hecarefree, to psy-turvy dat es ofCarnival, a t ime when thereversal of values and a lteration

    of th e moral order of things giverise to mom ents of revelry an d

    genuine luxury for the palate.The ba nquet must b e rounded

    off w ith a platter of the famedcheeses ma de in the region , e.g.,ew es milk cheese from t heAlcudia Valley. A fea st of t hiscalibre should be a ccompa niedby wines that embo dy all thefullness of the soil in w hich th eyare born, and are fitting for thevarious stag es of thegastronomic ritual. Castile-LaMancha s oeno logical treasuretrove a ssumes liquid f orm in thew ines of Valdepe a s, Almansaand Jumilla, w hich boa st amarked character and veryag reeab le taste. A privilege d

    accompaniment for a perfectlyba lanced cuisine, w hose recipesgua rantee sensat ions andsurprises at aff orda ble prices.

    Produce of the ea rth of the

    quality displayed by Consuegra-grow n saffron, honoured in acolourful fiesta, o r the localbea ns, is an excellent choicewhen it comes to ta king a wa y amemento o f these lands, wherehistory fa des into the mists oftime; and the same can be saidof t he innumerable types of

    handicraft s that combine refineddecorative elements with objectsof da ily use. A rich creat ivemosaic with items ofconsiderable artistic value, suchas lead-varnished earthenw aregra tin- and oven-dishes, pitchersan d jugs of a ll sorts and kinds,plus, nat urally, the prized w areof Talavera de la Reina w hoseeye-catchingly glaz ed t iles andceram ics enjoy cen turies-oldfa me, occupying a privilege dplace in the tablewa re ofsuccessive Span ish m on archs.

    Lacewo rk. Almagro

    Wi ne cellar. Vald epeas

    Ceramic w are. Puente del A rzobispo

    carousing in Guadalajara Ciudadremote w artime episode that

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    45

    festivities with da ncing untilnight fa ll, in w hich the local w ineplays a lead ing role. On 31st July,Ciudad Real pays homag e totheVirgen d el Prado withprocessions of groups dressed inregiona l costumes, folkloreperformances and t heconvid ,an invitat ion to the public to ea tand drink a g lass of lemonade,extended by t he ma jor-domo orpandorgo designa ted bythe ma yor. The f iesta held t ocommemorate the pa tron saintof Sigenza, St. Roque, on16th August, is fa mous for w ha thas been dubbed theprocesin de los faroles (procession ofthe lant erns) in hono ur of th eVirgen de la Mayor . Thefinishing to uch is ad ded b y thecomida d e los huesos (meal ofbon es) sponsored by the Tow nCouncil, w ith limitless qua ntitiesof mea t and w ine being served

    to a ll tho se present. In fact,tasting the local food a nd w ine

    is another typical, well-attendedevent, w hich ten ds to multiplyand can be fo und everywherethroughout the region.

    On the first Sunda y inSeptember, in Mot a d el Cuervo,in a curious ceremony performedby the anderos , villag ers whorun with the figure on theirshoulders, the image ofNuestra Seora de la An t igua d e Manjavacas is taken from thelocal hermitag e cha pel. Thefestivities in hon our of thepatron saint of Albacetecontinue until mid-Septe mber,w ith horse show s and bullfights.No list w ould be completew ithout ment ioning Almagrosprestig ious Classical Thea treCycle, stag ed in the venerable16th-century playho use, theCorral d e Comed ias , the onlysurviving example o f t he Span ish

    thea tres of old. Indeed, there isa collective land scape of

    44

    carousing in Guadalajara, CiudadReal and ma ny other pointsacross the reg ion.

    Holy Week brings w ith it a timeof meditation and devotion,characte rised by the sombrema ss processions of the ancientbrotherhoods and guilds,associat ions tha t for centurieshave borne all the w eight oftrad ition on the ir shoulders.Mention must be ma de here ofthe solemn and piousprocessions in Ocaa , a to w n

    possessing its own Easter Passionheritag e in the form ofarticulated images, as well as thereligious processions tha t pa radethrough the streets of Cuencafollow ing a mo ving ly lovelyprotocol in memory of thecrucifixion o f Christ. Themourning a tmosphere of theWeek of Christs Passionculminat es in Atienza in a nexplosion of a ll tha t ispicturesque, than ks to theCaballada , a festival which takesplace on the Sunday a fterPentecost to commemorate a

    remote w artime episode thattoo k place in the 12th century.Just as their forefa thers oncerode out to defend t he child-king Alfo nso VIII from his uncleFerdinand II, w ho laid siege t othe tow n, so do the me mbers ofthe convening brotherhood stillga llop in pilgrimage (ro mer a )behind their standard-bearer,long b lack capes streaming inthe w ind, to the Hermitag eChapel ofNuestr a Seora d e la Estrella (Our Lad y of the Star).

    On these same dat es, thetow nsfolk of Talavera de laReina make the trad itional w axofferings to t heVirgen d el Prado (Virgin of the Mea dow ) in theso-calledFiesta d e las Mon das ,w ith float s, han dicraf ts sta lls,concerts and plays. Closing thecycle of the Christian spring, t heToleda ns raid their w ardrob esand get dressed in their Sundaybest to do f ull justice to th ema jestic Corpus Christiprocession, presided o ver by th eemblema tic silver mo nstrance(custodia ), rising t o o ver 3metres in height, the w ork ofEnrique de Arfe. A culturalexpression ting ed w ithreligiousness and aesthe ticallyenno bled b y the succession o fstunning stills that seem to ha vebeen recreat ed from old familyalbums of another time.

    Over the course of t he summer,

    there is a succession of religiouscelebrations and popular

    Corral d e Comedias theatre. Alm agro. Ciudad Real

    Caballada. At ienza

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    SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION UNITED STATES OF AMERICAUSEFUL INFORMATION % 926 610 400) 926 610 935

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    OFFICES ABROAD

    CANADA. TorontoTourist Of fice o f Spa in2 Bloor Stree t West Suite 3402Toro nt o, O nt a rio M4W 3E2

    % (1416) 961 31 31) (1416) 961 19 92www.tourspain.toronto.on.ca e-mail: t oront o@tou rspain.es

    GREAT BRITAIN. LondonSpa nish Tou rist Off icePO BOX 4009London W1A 6NB% (44207) 486 80 77) (44207) 486 80 34www.tourspain.co.uk e-mail: lo ndr es@to urspain.es

    JAPAN. Tokyo.Tourist Of fice o f Spa inDa ini Tora no mo n Den ki Bldg .6F.3-1-10 Tora no mo n. Mina to -KuTOKYO-105-0001

    % (813) 34 32 61 41) (813) 34 32 61 44www.spaintour.com e-mail: to kio@to urspain.es

    RUSSIA. MoscowSpa nish Tou rist Off iceTverskaya 16/2. Edif icio 3Moscow 103009% (7095) 935 83 97) (7095) 935 83 96www.tourspain.ru e-mail: mo scu@to urspain.es

    SINGAPORE.SingaporeSpa nish Tou rist Off ice541Orchard Roa dLiat Tow er # 09-04238881 Sing a pore

    % 65 67 37 30 08) 65 67 37 31 73e-mail: sing apor e@to urspain.es

    U DS SO CLos AngelesTou rist Of fice o f Spa in8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960Beverly Hills, Ca lifornia 90211% 1(323) 658 71 88) 1(323) 658 10 61

    www.okspain.org e-mail: losangeles@to urspain.es ChicagoTou rist Office Of SpainWat er Tow er Pla ce, suite 915East. 845. North Michiga n AvenueChicago, Illinois 60-611% 1(312) 642 19 92) 1(312) 642 98 17www.okspain.org e-mail: chicago@to urspain.es Miami.Tou rist Of fice o f Spa in1221 Brickell Avenu eMiam i, Florida 33131% 1(305) 358 19 92) 1(305) 358 82 23www.okspain.org e-mail: miami@to urspain.es

    New York Tou rist Of fice o f Spa in666 Fifth Aven ue 35th floorNew York, New York 10103% 1(212) 265 88 22) 1(212) 265 88 64www.okspain.org e-mail:[email protected]

    EMBASSIES IN MADRIDCanada.Nuez de Balboa, 35% 914 233 250 ) 914 233 251Great Britain.Fernando El Santo , 16% 913 190 200 ) 913 081 033 Japan.Serrano, 109% 915 907 600 ) 915 901 321Russia.Velzq uez, 155% 915 622 264 ) 915 629 712

    United States of AmericaSerrano, 75% 915 872 200 ) 915 872 303

    USEFUL INFORMATION

    International Dialling Code% 34

    TURESPAA Tourist Information% 901 300 600www.spain.info

    Regional Authority or RegionalTourist BoardAvenida Ro Estenilla. 45071 Toled o% 925 267 800) 925 267 874www.jccm.es

    TOURIST INFORMATIONOFFICES

    Albacete. Posada del RosarioTint e, 2.% 967 580 522www.dipualba.es Ciudad Real. Calle Alarcos, 21% 926 200 037.www.dipucr.es Cuenca. Plaza Mayor% 969 232 119www.cuenca.org Guadalajara. Plaza d e los Cado s,6% 949 211 626www.guadalajara.interactiva.or Toledo. Puerta de Bisagra% 925 220 843www.ayto-toledo.org

    TOURIST PARADORS(State-run hotels)

    Central booking office

    Calle Requena, 3. 28013 Madrid% 915 166 666) 915 166 657www.parador.es ALBACETEAlbacete Parador.N-301, km 251% 967 245 321) 967 243 271e-mail: albacete@parado r.es CIUDAD REALAlmagro ParadorRonda San Francisco, 31% 926 860 100) 926 860 150e-mail: almag ro@parado r.esManzanares ParadorAutova Anda luca, km 174

    % 926 610 400) 926 610 935e-mail: man zanares@parad or.es CUENCAAlarcn ParadorAvda . Amigo s de los Castillos, 3% 969 330 315) 969 330 303e-mail: alarcon@parad or.es Cuenca ParadorPaseo Hoz de l Hucar% 969 232 320) 969 232 534e-mai l: cuenca@par ado r.es GUADALAJARASigenza ParadorPlaza del Castillo% 949 390 100) 949 391 364e-mail: sigu enza@parad or.es

    TOLEDOOropesa ParadorPlaza Palacio 1% 925 430 000) 925 430 777e-mail: oro pesa@parado r.es Toledo ParadorCerro d el Empera dor% 925 221 850) 925 225 166e-mail: toled o@parad or.es

    USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS

    Emergencies% 112Hospita l Emerg encies % 061Civil Guard% 062Nationa l Police% 091Municipal Police% 092Public Information Service % 010Post &Teleg rap hs%

    902 197 197www.correos.es

    TRANSPORT

    RENFE (Spanish Rail)Informat ion and Bookings% 902 240 202www.renfe.es Buses:Albacete% 967 216 012Ciuda d Real% 926 211 342Cuenca% 969 227 087Guadalajara% 949 247 277Tole do % 925 215 850Road &Highw ay Informat ion% 900 123 505www.dgt.es

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    Carranque

    Esquivias

    Orgaz

    Manzaneque

    La G uardia

    Consuegra

    Puerto Lpice

    Malagn

    Manzanares

    Almagro

    Puertollano

    La Bienvenida

    Fuencaliente

    Almuradiel

    La Solana

    Villamanrique

    Albadalejo

    Almedina

    Montiel

    Alcaraz

    El Bonillo

    Munera

    La Roda

    ALBACETE

    San Clemente

    AtienzaValdelcubo

    Sigenza

    Torrem ochadel CampoGUADALAJARA

    Villarrobledo

    Tom elloso

    Las Pedroera s

    Belmontes

    El Tob oso

    Campo deCriptana

    PedroMuoz

    Villanue va delos Infantes

    Bienservida

    Ruidera

    Valenzuela de Calatrava

    CIUDAD REAL

    Villarta deSan Juan

    TOLEDO

    Illescas

    10 Route s:

    Tole do /San Cleme nt e

    San Clemente/Villanueva

    de los Infantes

    Villanueva de los

    Infa nte s/Almag ro

    Valle de Alcudia /Campo

    de Calatrava

    Alba cete/Alcara z

    La Roda /Campo s

    de Montiel

    Campo deCripta na /Tom elloso

    Almag ro/Tole do

    Esquivia s/Illescas

    Hoz del ro

    Dulce/Sige nz a

    ao 2005

    Calzada d eCalatrava

    Villanuevade San Carlos

    Valdepeas

    Santa Cruzde MudelaTorre nue va

    Casas deLzaro

    Aldea del Rey

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