sostenibilita’ nel comparto tessile
TRANSCRIPT
SOSTENIBILITA’ NEL COMPARTO TESSILE CERTIFICAZIONI TESSILI
BIELLA 17.20.2012 • CAMERA DI
COMMERCIO BIELLA • UNIONE INDUSTRIALI
BIELLESE
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DEFINIZIONE
TESSILE ECOLOGICO quel manufatto che viene
prodotto attraverso una filiera sostenibile, rispettando norme e capitolati
TESSILE BIOLOGICO
quel manufatto che viene
prodotto attraverso una filiera sostenibile, rispettando norme e capitolati ma
che nasce da fibra BIOLOGICA
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CERTIFICAZIONE IN ITALIA
ECOLOGICA
pubblica ( ECOLABEL ) di processo privata ( OEKOTEX ) di prodotto
BIOLOGICA pubblica per la produzione
della fibra ( reg CEE 209291 ) privata (BIOAGRICERT,
ICEA, …) di processo e di prodotto, tracciabilità
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Perché promuovere e sostenere il Tessile Biologico? Impatto ambientale In fase di produzione agricola: la coltivazione del cotone è associata a diversi
impatti negativi sull’ambiente che includono la riduzione della fertilità dei suoli, la loro salinizzazione, la perdita di biodiversità, l’inquinamento delle acque e diversi problemi connessi all’uso dei pesticidi inclusi fenomeni di resistenza nei patogeni. Si consideri che sul cotone, che occupa circa il 2,5% delle superfici coltivate a livello mondiale, vanno a finire il 25% di tutti gli insetticidi utilizzati nelle colture agricole, e 11% di tutti i pesticidi.
In fase di produzione industriale: connesso all’impiego di prodotti chimici non ottimizzati dal punto di vista ambientale nei processi di trasformazione e nobilitazione.
Impatto sociale sui coltivatori: I prezzi medi internazionali del cotone sono in costante
diminuzione per effetto delle politiche di dumping portate avanti soprattutto dagli USA (nel 2001-2002, i 25,000 coltivatori di cotone nordamericani hanno ricevuto circa $ 568 ad ettaro di sussidi, pari ad un totale di circa $3,9 miliardi – il doppio rispetto al livello del 1992) e nel 2002 sono stati i più bassi dal 1972-73 e forse i più bassi della storia. Questa situazione va a peggiorare la situazione economica di molti paesi, non solamente africani, e soprattutto delle comunità agricole.
Sui lavoratori dell’industria: le attività più inquinanti e Labour-intensive sono oramai da tempo oggetto di una costante delocalizzazione verso i paesi dell’Est Europa o i PVS seguendo condizioni di minori costi collegate spesso a minori garanzie sociali.
Impatto sulla salute dei consumatori Sono oramai state provate Dermatiti Allergiche di Contatto (DAO) determinate, nella
maggioranza dei casi, da coloranti sintetici in particolare della categoria dei dispersi.
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Lo Standard AIAB-IFOAM per il Tessile Biologico Fibre naturali Nella produzione di prodotti tessili biologici possono
essere utilizzate unicamente fibre naturali ottenute con metodo di agricoltura biologica e certificate da in conformità al Reg. CEE 2092/91 .
Non è ammesso l’utilizzo di fibre ottenute o alterate dall’uso di Organismi Geneticamente Modificati (OGM).
Fibre sintetiche o artificiali L’uso di fibre artificiali/sintetiche è consentito nella
misura massima del 5% del peso complessivo del manufatto, e limitatamente ad alcuni usi specifici quali: filato cucirino, fodere, spalline e imbottiture.
INTERNATIONAL LABELS FOR ECOLOGICAL AND ORGANIC TEXTILE CERTIFICATION PRIVATI
1990 WHITE SWAN ECO-TEX OEKOTEX . . . 2000 GOTS TEXTILE EXCHEINGE IWTO BLUESIGN … ISTITUZIONALI ECOLABEL "
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GLOBAL ORGANIC TEXTILE STANDARD GOTS 3.0 (2.03.2011)
The Global Organic Tex1le Standard (GOTS) is recognised as the leading processing standard for tex1les made from organic fibres worldwide. It defines high level environmental criteria along the en1re supply chain of organic tex1les and requires compliance with social criteria as well.
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THE GOTS APPROVED CERTIFIERS ACCREDITED
BIOAGRICERT -‐ ICEA -‐ CCPB ITALIA NETHERLAND GREAT BRITAN USA OTA SWITZERLAND
TURKEY FRANCE GIAPPONE JOCA
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2.2.Requirements for material composition! 2.2.1.Products sold, labelled or represented as "organic" or "organic - in
conversion”!! No less than 95% of the fibre content of the products - excluding
accessories - must be of certified organic origin or from 'in conver- sion' period (identified and labelled as specified in chapters 1.4 and 2.1 of this standard). Up to 5% of the fibre content of the prod- ucts may be made of non-organic fibres that are listed in chapter 2.4.9. The products must not contain any genetically modified fi- bres. Blending organic and conventional fibres of the same type in the same product is not permitted. The percentage figures refer to the weight of the fibre content of the products in conditioned status."
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2.2.2.Products sold, labelled or represented as "made with x % organic materials" or "made with x % organic - in conversion materials"!"No less than 70% of the fibre content of the products - excluding accessories - must be of certified organic origin or from 'in conver- sion' period (identified and labelled as specified in the chapters 1.4 and 2.1 of this standard). ""Up to 30% of the fibre content of the products may be made of non-organic fibres that are listed in chapter 2.4.9. The products must not contain any genetically modified fibres. ""The products may contain a maximum of 10% of regenerated or synthetic fibres as listed in chapter 2.4.9, except that socks, leggings and sportswear may contain a maximum of 25% of those regenerated or synthetic fibres. Blending organic and conventional fibres of the same type in the same product is not permitted. The percentage figures refer to the weight of the fibre content of the products in conditioned status." [email protected]
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2.3. General requirements for chemical inputs in all processing stages 2.3.1.Prohibited and restricted inputs!
SUBSTANCE GROUP!Aromatic solvents"Chlorophenols (including their salts
and esters) "Complexing agents and
surfactants"Fluorocarbons "Formaldehyde and other short-
chain al- dehydes "Genetically modified organisms
(GMO's) and their derivates (including enzymes derived from genetically modified or- ganisms) "
Halogenated solvents "Heavy metals"
CRITERIA"Prohibited "Prohibited (such as TeCP, PCP)"Prohibited are: - all APEOs (i.e. nonylphenol,
octylphenol, APEOs terminated with functional groups,APEO-polymers) - EDTA, DTPA, NTA - LAS, α-MES"
Prohibited (such as PFOS and PFOA)"Prohibited"Prohibited"Prohibited "Prohibited, inputs must be ‘heavy metal free’.
Impurities must not exceed the limit val- ues as defined in annex A. Exceptions valid for dyes and pigments are set in chapter 2.4.6. and 2.4.7."
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2.3.2. Requirements related to hazard and toxicity!Inputs that are assigned to specific risk phrases (hazard statements) related to health hazards Prohibited are substances that are assigned to any of the following risk phrases or combinations thereof (in accordance with the classification of Directive 67/548EEC):""R26: Very toxic by inhalation "R27: Very toxic in contact with skin "R28: Very toxic if swallowed "R39: Danger of very serious irreversible effects "R40: Limited evidence of a carcinogenic effect "R45: May cause cancer "R46: May cause heritable genetic damage "R48: Danger of serious damage to health by prolonged exposure "R49: May cause cancer by inhalation "R60: May impair fertility "R61: May cause harm to the unborn child R62: Possible risk of impaired fertility R63: Possible risk of harm to the unborn child R68: Possible risk of irreversible effects"
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Inputs that are assigned to specific risk phrases (hazard statements) related to environmental hazards Prohibited are preparations that are assigned to any of the following (combinations of) risk phrases(in accordance with the classification of Directive 1999/45EC, amended by Directive 2006/8/EC):!
R50: Very toxic to aquatic organisms "R50/53: Very toxic to aquatic organisms, may cause long-term " adverse effects in the aquatic environment "R51/53: Toxic to aquatic organisms, may cause long-term adverse " effects in theaquatic environment "R54: Toxictoflora"R55: Toxictofauna "R56: Toxictosoilorganisms "R58: May cause long-term adverse effects in the environment "R59: Dangerous for the ozone layer"
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All preparations applied must further comply with the following requirements:"PARAMETER !Oral Toxicity "Aquatic Toxicity ""Relationofbiodegradability/
eliminabil-ity to aquatic toxicity ""Bio-accumulativity /
Biodegradability"
CRITERIA!LD50 > 2000 mg/kg "LC50, EC50, IC50 > 1 mg/l""Only allowed,if:
<70%and>100mg/l " >70% and >10 mg/l >95% and
> 1mg/l ""Substances, known to be ‘bio-
accumulative’ and not biodegradable are prohibited."[email protected]
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2.3.3 Assessment basis for chemical inputs! Basis for assessment of all chemical inputs (substances and
preparations) is the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), prepared ac- cording to an applicable recognised norm or directive.
The Approved Certifiers should, where appropriate and felt
necessary, include further sources of information (such as additional toxicological and environmental data on specific components of the auxiliary agents, test reports and independent lab analysis) in the assessment.
Certifiers with approval for this specific scope are authorised to issue conformity documents to the chemical supply industry listing the trade names of preparations that have been assessed and found to be compliant with the criteria of this standard.
All chemical inputs intended to be used to process GOTS Goods are subject to approval by a GOTS Approved Certifier prior to their usage.
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2.4.Specific requirements for processing and test parameters!
2.4.1.Separation and Identification All stages through the processing chain must be established so as to ensure that organic and conventional fibres are not commin- gled and that organic fibres and GOTS Goods are not contaminated by contact with prohibited substances.All organic raw materials must be clearly labelled and identified as such at all stages of the processing chain."
2.4.2. SpinningAllowed are additives that meet the basic requirements as set in chapter 2.3.1. and 2.3.2. only. Any paraffin products used must be fully refined with a limited value for residual oil of 0,5%."
2.4.3.Sizing and weaving / knittingAllowed sizing agents include starch, starch derivatives, other natural substances and CMC (carboxymethylcellulose). Polyvinylalcohol (PVA) and Polyacrylate (PAC) may be used for no more than 25% of the total sizing in combination with natural substances only, calculated for the chemical without water.Knitting / weaving oils must not contain heavy metals. Other inputs must be derived from natural materials only."
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2.4.5.Pre-treatment stages, wet processing!PRE-TREATMENT STAGE "Ammonia treatment"Bleaches" ""Boiling, kiering, washing"Chlorination of wools "Desizing""Mechanical/thermal treatments"Mercerization"Optical brightening"Other, not explicitly listed
pretreatment methods!
CRITERIA""Prohibited - Exception: allowed for after-treatment of wool, if
performed in closed system. "On basis of oxygen only (peroxides, ozone, etc.). Approved
Certifiers may grant exceptions for non-cotton fibre products where oxygen bleaches are not sufficiently functional, provide they meet the basic requirements as set in chapter 2.3.1. and 2.3.2."
Allowed are auxiliaries that meet the basic requirements as set in chapter 2.3.1. and 2.3.2. on- ly. Washing detergents must not contain phosphates. "
Prohibited "Allowed are GMO free enzymatic desizing and other
auxiliaries that meet the basic require- ments as set in chapter 2.3.1. and 2.3.2. only"
Allowed "Allowed with auxiliaries that meet the basic requirements as
set in chapter 2.3.1. and 2.3.2. only. Alkaline must be recycled."
Allowed are optical brighteners that meet all criteria for the selection of dyes and auxiliaries as set in chapter 2.4.6. Dyeing. "
Allowed are mechanical / thermal pre-treatment methods and such with the use of substances on basis of natural materials."
"
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2.4.6. Dyeing! Allowed are natural dyes, synthetic dyes and auxiliaries that
meet the requirements as set in chapter 2.3.1 and 2.3.2. only. " Prohibited are azo dyes that release carcinogenic arylamine
compounds (MAC III, category 1,2,3)" Prohibited are (disperse) dyes classified as allergenic." Prohibited are dyes containing heavy metals as an integral part
of the dye molecule (e.g. heavy metal dyes, certain reactive dyes) under consideration of the following exceptions: ""- General exception for Iron ""- Specific exception for copper: permitted up to 5% per weight in blue, green and turquoisedyestuffs."
" The use of natural dyes and auxiliaries that are derived
from a threatened species listed on the Red List of the IUCN is prohibited.!
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Coloranti non ammessi in tintura Coloranti basati su metalli pesanti; Coloranti azoici che per scissione riduttiva
possono dare origine ad una delle seguenti ammine aromatiche …….;
Coloranti cancerogeni, mutageni o tossici per la riproduzione;
Tinture a base di coloranti riconosciuti come potenzialmente sensibilizzanti;
Rigonfianti (carrier) alogenati
2.4.7. Printing! Allowed are dyes, pigments and auxiliaries that meet the requirements
as set in chapter 2.3.1 and 2.3.2 only. " Flock printing is allowed with natural and regenerated fibres if the fibres
used meet the limit values for residues as listed in chapter 2.4.16." Ammonia is allowed as required buffer in pigment printing pastes." Prohibited are dyes containing heavy metals as an integral part of the
dye molecule (e.g. heavy metal dyes, certain reactive dyes) under consideration of the following exceptions: - General exception for Iron - Specific exception for copper: permitted up to 5% per weight in blue, green and turquoise dyestuffs only."
Prohibited are discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents." Prohibited are plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC. " Prohibited are azo dyes and pigments that release carcinogenic
arylamine compounds (MAC III, category 1,2,3) " The use of natural dyes and auxiliaries that are derived from a
threatened species listed on the Red List of the IUCN is prohibited."" [email protected]
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2.4.8. Finishing! Allowed are mechanical, thermal and other physical
finishing methods. " Allowed are natural and synthetic inputs that meet
the basic requirements as set in chapter 2.3.1 and 2.3.2 only."
Prohibited in general is the use of synthetic inputs for anti-microbial finishing (including bio- cides), coating, filling and stiffening, lustring and matting as well as weighting."
Prohibited are garment finishing methods that are considered to be harmful to the workers (such as sand blasting of denim)."
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2.4.14. Technical quality parameters! Rubbing fastness, dry for fibre
blends ! Rubbing fastness, wet! Perspiration fastness, alkaline
and acid for fibre blends ! Light fastness! Dimensional changes after
washing at 40ｰC resp. at 30ｰC for animal fibre material and blends thereof. !
This criterion is only valid for the garment sector.!
Knitted/hosiery: Woven: ! Saliva fastness! Washing fastness when
washed at 60°! Washing fastness of animal
fibre material and blends thereof when washed at 30°!
3-4 ISO 105" 3 " "ISO 105" 2 " "ISO 105" 3-4 " "ISO 105" 3 " "ISO 105" 3-4 " "ISO 205" max. 8% ISO 6330" max. 3% " "FAST" for baby and
children's clothing" 3 - 4"ISO 105" 3 - 4"ISO 105"
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2.4.15. Limit values for residues in GOTS goods! Arylamines with carcinogenic
properties (amine-releasing azo dyes MAC III, catego- ry 1,2,3) !
AOX! Disperse dyes (classified as
allergenic or carcinogenic) ! Formaldehyde! Glyoxal and other short-chain
aldehydes ! pH value! Chlorophenols (PCP, TeCP) o-
Phenylphenole!
< 20 mg/kg" < 5.0 mg/kg" < 30 mg/kg" < 16 mg/kg" < 20 mg/kg " 4.5 - 9.0 (no skin
contact) 4.5 - 7.5 (skincontact and babywear)<"
0.01 mg/kg " < 1.0 mg/kg"
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Pesticides, sum parameter! All natural fibres (except ! shorn wool), cert.organic! Shorn wool, cert. Organ!HEAVY METALS! Antimony (Sb)! Arsenic (As)! Cadmium (Cd)! Chromium (Cr)! Chromium VI (Cr-VI)! Cobalt (Co)! Copper (Cu)! Lead (Pb)! Nickel (Ni)! Mercury (Hg)! Selenium (Se)! Tin (Sn)! Heavy metals! Cadmium (Cd) ! Lead (Pb)! Organotin compounds, individually TBT,
TphT, DBT, DOT ! MBT ! Phthalates (DINP, DNOP, DEHP, DIDP, BBP,
DBP, DIBP), sum parameter!
< 0.1 mg/kg" < 0.5 mg/kg " In eluate: figures in mg/kg refer to the
textile" < 0.2 mg/kg " < 0.2 mg/kg " < 0.1 mg/kg " < 1.0 mg/kg" < 0.5 mg/kg" < 1.0 mg/kg " < 25 mg/kg " < 0.2 mg/kg " < 1.0 mg/kg " < 0.02 mg/kg " < 0.2 mg/kg " < 2.0 mg/kg " in digested sample:" < 45 mg/kg " < 50 mg/kg" < 0.05 mg/kg " < 0.1 mg/kg " < 100 mg/kg" [email protected]
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GLI ALTRI PUNTI DEL CAPITOLATO
2.4.10 ENVIROMENTAL MANAGEMENT" 2.4.11 WASTE WATER TREATMENT" 2.4.12 STORAGE, PACKAGING AND TRANSPORT"
"….. "" 3 MINIMUM SOCIAL CRITERIA" 4 QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM"
www.global-standard.org"" [email protected]
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2.4.10 ENVIROMENTAL MANAGEMENT
politica per la gestione dei criteri sociali devono essere conformi alle norme del paese in cui l'azienda opera sicurezza sul lavoro i salari agli operai lavoro minorile
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2.4.11 ENVIROMENTAL
una politica di gestione ambientale Aggiornato analisi acque di scarico, fumi, ecc registro materiali da smaltire
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3. MINIMUM SOCIAL CRITERIA L’azienda deve scrivere e adottare una politica di responsabilità sociale per garantire che i criteri sociali possono essere soddisfatti, sostenere l'attuazione e il monitoraggio dei criteri sociali come: nomina di un responsabile per la responsabilità sociale controllo del rispetto dei criteri sociali e l'attuazione di
miglioramenti necessari presso le proprie strutture informare i lavoratori in merito al contenuto dei criteri
minimi sociali ...
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DOCUMENTI RICHIESTI DA ALLEGARE
DIAGRAMMA DI FLUSSO verificare che il diagramma di flusso sia rispettato nelle fasi di lavorazione organica dell'azienda DESCRIZIONE DEL PROCESSO procedura interna per la gestione del lavoro organico, dall'ingresso della materia prima al confezionamento del prodotto finito
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PUNTI CRITICI IN AZIENDA
Separare e identifcare merci in magazzino in entrata e uscita
separare e identificare le lavorazioni del prodotto ordinario da quello organico attraverso: label, distanza, ecc.
la tintoria, stamperia e il finissaggio separazione dei prodotti chimici in magazzino "
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Global market for organic fiber Il mercato dei prodotti tessili realizzati con fibre naturali da agricoltura biologica è stato caratterizzato da una continua crescita dal 2001 al 2010 quando il mercato al dettaglio dei prodotti di abbigliamento e tessili per la casa organici, ha raggiunto il valore di 4,3 miliardi di dollari con un aumento del 35% rispetto al 2008 questo andamento è particolarmente interessante se si tiene conto del fatto che il mercato globale dei prodotti tessili nel 2009, crisi internazionale, è diminuito complessivamente del 7% rispetto al 2008.
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245 millions of dollars in 2001 5.100 millions of dollars in 2010 6.000 millions of dollars in 2011 Fonte: Organic Exchange, 2010b
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… grazie per l’attenzione domande? …
Dr. Stefano Panconesi [email protected] www.painaturalcolor.it fb: CASA CLEMENTINA www.casaclementina.net
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