south karelia
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OUTLOOK / TRAVEL
62 / AIRBALTIC.COM
South KareliaA quiet lie by the lake
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BALTIC OUTLOOK / AUGUST 2011 / 63
Some time ater Swedens Queen Christina ounded Lappeenranta
on Lake Saimaa Finlands largest lake in 1649, the city came
to be known as wild mans shore, based on the savage gure
in Lappeenrantas coat o arms. Today, Lappeenranta has several
nicknames Linden City, Cavalry City, Gateway to Lake Saimaa,
and Gateway to the East each with its own history. To those who
dont speak Finnish, Lappeenranta might sound more like thename o a airy tale or imaginary gure, rather than that o a city.
In reality, the citys melodic name describes its location right on
the shores o Lake Saimaa. It is precisely this geographic location in
South Karelia that sets the citys rhythm and denes its eatures, as
has been the case since its very oundation. Over the past decades,
Lappeenranta has combined orces with the neighbouring city o
Imatra to turn ideas into reality. From all appearances, it seems that
no one is just a spectator here.
I arrive in Lappeenranta on a June evening, when the nights are
so short that it never gets completely dark. I am greeted at the
airport by Suvi Ahola, who works as a marketing communications
manager or goSaimaa and who also nds the time to volunteer
at Junior Chamber International. She has taken care to ensure that
my rst visit to South Karelia will be a successul one. Now the
adventures can begin!
Roots of tourismEarly the ollowing morning, while having breakast with Suvi
and Markku Mkel, the sales manager o the Sokos Hotel Lappee,
I discover a tasty regional dish Karelian pie (Karjalanpiirakka) a
roll made rom rye our and lled with rice or mashed potatoes.
It reminds me o the Latvian sklandu rausis, which is lled with
carrots. Ater a lling breakast, Suvi and I head to the Imatra region.
The city o Imatra is about 30 km rom Lappeenranta, and both
urban centres are cooperating to orm a region that is riendly totourists and investors alike. This can be seen along the way the
increased ow o trac has led to the widening o the road, which
is lined on one side by the railway. The new Allegro high-speed
train connects Lappeenranta with St. Petersburg, Russia in just an
hour-and-a-hal.
Our rst stop is Saimaa Gardens (www.saimaagardens.com). The
quiet, 300-hectare lakeside territory has now become a huge
construction site. In October o this year, the rst part o an
ambitious resort will be opened, the Holiday Club Saimaa. It will
highlight two o the regions main eatures holiday homes and
spas. Spending relaxing holidays in nature has become a Finnish
TEXT BYELINA RUKA
PHOTOS COURTESY Of GOSAIMAA, MIKKO NIKKINENAND BY ELINA RUKA
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mainstay. For those who dont own a holiday cabin, renting
is an acceptable option. Both Saimaa Gardens and Imatra Spa
(www.imatrankylpyla.) ofer several diferent kinds o short-term
and long-term rental homes.
Saimaa Gardens will ofer a spa and a golng green, as well as
boat and yacht trips. Restaurants and a concert venue are also
planned. As it turns out, the area has been catering to tourists or
quite a long time. Businessman Gusta Alm opened the rst hotel
and spa in the area in 1894, the Rauha Pensionaat r Turister. It
operated until 1912, when it was bought by the Russian doctor
Dimitri Gabrilovitsch, who turned it into a sanatorium that ofered
innumerable bath and bright light procedures, as well as special
diets and vegetarian meals. Among the guests were celebrities o
the day, including members o the Russian royal court.
Since then, the South Karelians have worked hard to ofer other
attractions alongside the rejuvenating spas. Saimaa Adventures(www.saimaa-adventures.), or example, provides ATV (all-terrain
vehicle) saaris. As we don the appropriate clothing and equipment,
Antti Harinen tells me about various summer and winter activities
that can be undertaken on water, dry land or in the air just
choose the one that captivates you the most. With our heads now
helmeted, Antti shows me how easy it is to drive an ATV and tells
me where were headed up and down hills, along narrow orest
trails and through the undergrowth. I soon come to understand
that I wont enjoy this ride very much i I have to stop at every turn,
bump and road block, so I hand the controls back to Antti and sit
behind him as a passenger. What a diference! I can look at the
Imatrankoski Rapids and Castle Hotel Valtionhotelli
Cafe Majurskan kahvila
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scenery and enjoy the wind, the jumps and the swaying rom side
to side. Antti just laughs, saying that he didnt even do any o the
tricks that he does when riding alone, but no matter my urge or
something exciting and a bit on the extreme side has been satised.
We drive to the centre o Imatra, where a beautiul castle comes into
view. It looks like it might once have been the home o a medieval
knight, but actually is an Art Nouveau building that houses a amous
hotel, the Rantasipi Imatran Valtionhotelli. Beore the hotel was built,Russian Empress Catherine II loved to visit this location during the
late 18th century. This launched the tourism industry in that region,
where the main attraction is the Imatrankoski Rapids. Every summer
evening (rom June 27 - August 14), starting at six oclock and
accompanied by music, the dam on the River Vuoksi is opened and
water powerully cascades down the clifs. You can quickly cross the
river by cable car to enjoy the view. As you watch the white oam
o the churning river oat downstream, a beautiul castle appears
through the trees. This Art Nouveau building, currently known as
Imatran Valtionhotelli, was a avourite o the Russian royal court.
Today, it operates as a hotel and is still a popular destination or
relaxing holidays, ofering an array o beautiul rooms to chooserom. Each room is diferent, but all are urnished according to
the Art Nouveau style and tradition. As is customary in this part o
Finland, the hotel also provides a wide selection o spa services.
Returning to Lappeenranta in the evening, we take an
excursion down the Saimaa Canal on the m/sCamilla riverboat
(www.karelialines.), enjoying the view along the waterways banks.
The canal connects Lake Saimaa with the Gul o Finland. Lunch and
Saimaa Gardens cottage
The harbor of Lappeenranta
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dinner cruises are available, as is a cruise down to Vyborg the only
way to get to Russia without a visa. The canal has a series o eight
locks along its 43-kilometre length. Every time a lock is entered, the
water level is either lowered or raised to the level o the next canal
section. This means that every so oten, the beautiul view o the
countryside is interrupted by that o stone walls. On our return to
Lappeenranta, we nd that evening has allen over the city. People
are enjoying the summer night over drinks at docked canal boats.
A light touchOur day in Lappeenranta begins with a morning stroll. On the
way rom the hotel to the Old City, we go through a park where,
shining through the birch branches, the morning sun illuminates
dew-covered paths. Kauppakatu (or K auppa Street) eatures several
houses constructed at the beginning o the 19th century. One o
them contains the Wolkof Museum, which presents the history o
the Russian Wolkof merchant amily, as well as Russian Orthodox
traditions. The home is lled with a large number o beautiul
household objects.
We pass a park unocially called the Kissing Park, due to itshistory as a place o romantic interludes. On the right, next to
Lappeenrantas 18th-century ortication wall, is a popular picnic
place with a view o the harbour and city. We walk through the
walls gates into the Old City. Typical wooden houses, which were
later ollowed by brick buildings, have been preserved within
the territory o the walls and are now home to museums and
restaurants. Not ar rom the gates, or example, lies the Cavalry
Museum. Lappeenranta was or a long time an important cavalry
city, and nowadays you can still spot the occasional costumed rider
dressed in historical garb.
The building on the opposite side o the street Majurskan talo
was at various times an ocers club, a hospital and an umbrella
actory. Today, it is home to several pleasant crat shops and a
wonderul ca Majurskan kahvila to while away the time. The
cas owner, Jaana Kuokka, has charmingly decorated its walls
with her grandmothers cross-stitch blankets, historical photos and
regional items. Every table, soa and chair is diferent. I liked the
veranda the most. Settling into its comortable seats and waiting
or my cake and sot drink (the baked goods give themselves away
rom a distance their heavenly aroma wats all the way out to the
ortication walls), I easted my eyes and determined that this place
is probably appreciated by both romantics and pragmatics alike.
Vases hold pink peonies, a samovar sits atop the windowsill, and the
whole little, idyllic world is reected in the glass o the tabletops.
South Kareliashistory and art museums lie on the same street,along with Finlands oldest Orthodox Church, which was completed
by Russian soldiers in 1785. Quiet and small, it is decorated in
accordance with that religions traditions.
Ater lunch at the Wanha Makasiinirestaurant (which used to be
a metal workshop, but now ofers reshly prepared ood, along
with bread baked specially or the restaurant and a selection o
rare wines), I cross the street, where I have arranged a meeting
with Mirka Kristiina Rahman. The smiling and bursting-with-energy
marketing manager or Lappeeranta Cityjoins me or a ride with
the new, eco-riendly e-bikes (www.salpasaarit.). Taking a turn
around the docks, we have to go up a small hill. This is where the
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electric bicycle redeems itsel with lightning speed its little motor
revs up, and keeping in pace with your pedalling rhythm, the bike
elegantly rolls uphill.
Not ar of is an area or the citys inhabitants to wash their rugs
o winter dust. Someone has brought a aithul dog along which,
lying on the ootbridge, watches his owner at work. The washed
rugs are hung to dry on specially made racks. A small group
o riends are enjoying the summer holiday rom school at the
citys beach no matter that the water hasnt warmed up yet.
The boys jump rom a high diving board, creating the perect
childhood idyll.
Later, we stop at another ca. Mirka advises me to try the local
specialty liquorice- and tar-avoured ice cream. In reply to my
raised eyebrows at that last avour, she explains that it is pine
tar, which is used not only industrially, but also in oodstufs and
cosmetics. Tar shampoo is a well-known product. You can also give
tar syrup a try and soon, even tar beer, which an enterprising local
company is in the process o making.
In the evening, Mirka takes me to the Linnoituksen Krouvirestaurant.
Its owner, Rauno Rnnberg, who also runs an Indian restaurantchain in Helsinki, came here to open an establishment that would
place emphasis on the local produce. Together with head che
Ulla Liukkonen, they make careul selections, always taking into
account the regions traditions and possibilities. The restaurant is
ound in a red brick house at the base o a hill with a view o the
lake. The owner and che spend the evening walking amongst the
tables, inquiring about the well-being o their guests. BO
Sailing competition in Lappeenranta
Tipical old town houses
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Festivals
sd scupur FFor the second time in the Sand Sculpture
Festivals eight-year history, children have been
the authors o the estivals theme. This year,
its the circus. A real big-top has been built,
with huge sand elephants, tight-rope walkers,
erocious-looking lions and everything else that a
circus requires. There are also lots o attractions
or kids sandboxes, playgrounds, a carousel and
an obstacle course up in the trees, as well as the
requisite souvenir shops.
Lappeenranta Harbour, June 12 August 28
Go & DoGurmd ju hf-hur frmlpprSr is a lamb dish cooked in a wood-red
baking oven according to a thousand-year-old
tradition. The slow baking guarantees a delicious
taste experience. The Srpirtti Kippurasarvi
restaurant is located in Lemi, hal an hours drive
rom Lappeenranta, and is run by the second
generation o the Hietaranta Family. Srpirtti
Kippurasarvi is the only restaurant in Finland that
specializes in a single lamb dish cooked or about
eight hours.
www.sarapirtti.f
FhgRent a boat or yoursel or go on an organized
excursion with a guide. The most popular sh in
Lake Saimaa are rainbow trout, pike-perch and
lake trout. Dont orget to obtain a license.
www.ahven.net
suI your hotel doesnt have a sauna, head or the
sauna at the public beach. The hours or women
are rom 16:00 to 20:00 on Wednesdays and
Fridays, with the same hours on Tuesdays and
Thursdays or men.
Myllysaari Lakeside Sauna and Beach, Lappeenranta
B GThis will be Lappeenrantas second Ballet Gala.
Perormers will include opera troupes rom
Latvia, Estonia and Kiev, Ukraine as well as artists
rom Germany, the Netherlands and Sweden.
Perormances will be held at the City Theatre o
Lappeenranta on Valtakatu 56.
August 26-27
Cry FCavalry band perormances, riding and battle
shows.
Lappeenranta, August 6-7
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OUTLOOK / TRAVEL
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soUveniRs
Fd bk frm h luk Kru rurThis restaurant has created a ood basket containing local products, which
is its way o supporting the local economy. It includes horseshoe-shaped
bread made specially or the restaurant rom potato, rye, barley and wheat
fours, as well as honey, cranberry jam, glazed blueberries, chanterelles,
smoked vendace and lamb preserves. Cost: 38.50 EUR.
Vesiportinkuja 5, Lappeenranta Fortress, www.linnoituksenkrouvi.f
lc hdcrf d u ccrLocally-made and other Finnish ceramics, paintings, knitwear and
accessories or the sauna.
Kristiinankatu 1 | www.majurskantalo.f and at the sandcastle
Special thanks to Suvi Ahola from goSaimaa, Mirka Kristiina Rahman fromLappeenranta Cityand everyone else who showed me their hospitality.
www.gosaimaa.com, www.lappeenranta.f and www.imatra.f