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THEDANISHNATIONALRESEARCHFOUNDATION’SCENTREFORTEXTILERESEARCHANNUALREPORT2015

STAFF:TheprimarystaffofCTRin2015consistedofdirectorMarie‐LouiseNosch,andtextileresearchers:UllaMannering,EvaAnderssonStrand,KarinMargaritaFrei,BeritHildebrandt(DE),MiguelÁngelAndrés‐Toledo(ES),MatteoVigo(IT),MalgorzataSiennicka‐Rahmstorf(PL),PaulaHohti(FI),SalvatoreGaspa(IT),RominaLaurito(IT),FlaviaCarraro(IT/FR),GiovanniFanfani(IT/SE),CarolineSauvage(FR/USA),SusanneLervad(DK),UllaLundHansen(DK),MariaPapadopoulou(GR),KalliopeSarri(GR),JaneMalcolm‐Davies(GB),CorinneThepáut‐Cabasset.AdministratorCamillaEbertandcoordinatorEgzonaHaxhawerePA’sforNosch.ResearchassistantwasPederFlemestad(NO)andeditorialassistantCherineMunkholt(DK).ThreePhDscholars,ViviLenaAndersen,CharlotteRimstadandKarolinaHutkova(SK)andotherscholarswereemployed/affiliatedfor1‐12months(LenaBjerregaard(DE/DK)andIdaDemant(DK)).Studenthelpersin2015wereSidselFrisch,StineMarieBøttern,LineLerke,LouiseLudvigsen,PhilipDonsandZiffJonker.ClaraVecchio(IT)andManonLeroy(FR)cametoCTRasinterns.AssistanteditorwasCamillaLuiseDahl(DK).GENDER:Sincetextileresearchisprimarilyconductedbyfemalescholars,CTRactivelyseekstorecruitmalescholarsaspostdocsortoinvitemalecolleaguesasvisitingscholars.In2015theCTRstaffgenderbalanceoffemale:malewas:researchers17:5,PhDstudents3:0andstudenthelpers6:1.RESEARCHANDPUBLICATIONS:In2015CTRfocusedonfinishingthemainprojectsfundedbyDNRFwhileprojectsfundedbyothersourceswerelaunched.Importantresearchanddisseminationactivitieswerethefinaleditingofseveralbooks,conferenceproceedingsaswellasmonographsandpapers.CTRstaffarrangedandco‐arranged19internationalconferences,seminarsandworkshopsin2015,andCTRscholarsgave99lecturesatinternationalconferencesin15countries.CTRstaffalsogave30interviewsindifferentDanishelectronicmedia,contributedtoarticlesinDanishandforeignnewspapers,andmade30outreachpresentations.In2015,CTRstaffandcollaboratorspublished36papersinjournals,63papersinCTRanthologies,9papersinotheranthologies,15papersinconferenceproceedings,19othertypesofpublicationsand5books.Thetotalpublicationproductivity2005‐2015inCTR:Totalnumberofpublications: 2005‐2015 Peerreviewed Non‐peerreviewed

Numberofjournalarticles 122 83 39

Numberofconferenceseries 77 50 27

Numberofbooks 38 30 8

Numberofbookchapters 282 282 0

Researchreportsonwebsite 10 9 1

Others 149 43 106

 

                                                             Number of articles in conference proceedings This number includes monographs and anthologies edited by CTR

HIGHLIGHTS 2015

Eva Andersson Strand fra CTR blev ansat som lektor i tekstilarkæologi ved Saxo-instituttet, Københavns Universi-tet. Dette er historiens første lektorat af sin slags. Eva Andersson Strand kom fra en stil-ling ved Arkeologiska Institutionen ved Lunds Universitet, en stilling

hun opgav i 2008 for alene at arbejde på CTR. Hun blev i 2012 udnævnt til Docent ved Lunds Univer-sitet.

Den længe ventede publikation af TTTC forskningsprogrammets resultater, Eva Andersson & Marie-Louise Nosch (red), Tools, Textiles and Contexts, Ancient Textiles Series 21, Oxbow, dokumenterer de metoder, der er udviklet i forbindelse med forskningen i bronzealderens tekstilteknologi i det østlige middelhavsområde. Dette inkluderer guidelines om hvordan man arbejder med eksperimentelarkæologi indenfor tekstilområdet og tekstilredskaber. Arbejdet er udført af CTRs forskere i samarbejde med et stort hold af internationale samarbejdspartnere.

To Ph.d.-studenter forsvarede deres afhandlinger og fortsatte deres arbejde i postdoc stillinger ved prestigefulde danske forskningsinstitutioner.Herudover kom fire internationale forskere til CTR for at arbejde med deres forskningsprojekter om tekstiler. Disse er Maria Papadopoulou og Kalliopi Sarri fra Grækenland, Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset fra Frankrig og Jane Malcolm-Davies fra England.

I 2015 blev Egtvedpigen endnu engang verdensberømt, da et hold ledet af Karin Margarita Frei demonstrerede at hverken Egtvedpigen eller hendes beklædning kom fra Egtved i Jylland, hvor hun blev fundet i 1921. Takket været Karin Margarita Freis banebrydende forskning og nye metode har forskningsresultaterne resulteret i adskillige artikler, og stor opmærksomhed fra den internationale presse.

I november rejste CTRs forskere og adskillige internationale samarbejdspartnere til Peru for at studere sydamerikansk forhistorisk og historisk tekstilteknologi. I løbet af to uger besøgte holdet en lang række museer med udsøgte tekstilsamlinger og afholdt to workhops på Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Marcos og Museo Amano i Lima. På Museo Municipal Huaca Malena adopterede CTR to tekstiler og sikrede dermed deres konservering og fremtidige udstilling på museet.

HIGHLIGHTS 2015

Eva Andersson Strand from CTR was appoint-ed associate professor in textile archaeology at the Saxo Institute, Uni-versity of Copenhagen. This is the first chair of its type anywhere in the world. Eva Andersson Strand came from a po-sition in archaeology at Lund University which

she left in 2008 to join the CTR permanently. In 2012, she was promoted to Docent at Lund Uni-versity.

The much awaited volume of the landmark research programme TTTC, Eva Andersson & Marie-Louise Nosch (eds) Tools, Textiles and Contexts, Ancient Textiles Series 21, Oxbow, documents the methodologies developed in research on Bronze Age textile technology of the eastern Mediterranean area. This includes guidelines on how to conduct textile experimental archaeology, and textile tool studies. The work have been conducted by CTR with a large team of international collaborators.

Two PhD students defended their dissertations and are in a position to continue in postdoctoral positions in prestigious Danish research institutions.Futhermore, four international fellows came to CTR to conduct research projects on textiles. These are Maria Papadopoulou and Kalliopi Sarri from Greece, Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset from France, and Jane Malcolm-Davies from the UK.

The Egtved Girl became world famous in 2015 when a team headed by Karin Margarita Frei demonstrated that neither the Egtved Girl nor her clothes came from Egtved in Jutland, Denmark where her body was found in 1921. Thanks to Karin Margarita Frei’s groundbreaking research and new methodology, this cutting-edge research yielded numerous papers and much attention in international media.

In November, CTR researchers and several international collaborators travelled to Peru to study South American prehistoric and historic textile technology. During the two-weeks trip the team visited a large number of museums with exquisite textile collections and held two workshops at Universidad Nacional Mayor de San Marcos and Museo Amano in Lima. At the Museo Municipal Huaca Malena, CTR adopted two textiles and ensured their conservation and future display in the museum.

  

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TEXTILEECONOMIESINTHEMEDITERRANEANAREA(TEMA)(2010‐2016)STAFFHistorianMarie‐LouiseNosch,archaeologistEvaAnderssonStrand,philologistGiovanniFanfani,archaeologistHedvigLandenius‐Enegren,archaeologistCecilieBrøns,terminologistSusanneLervad,Indo‐EuropeanphilologistMiguelÁngelAndrés‐Toledo,hittitologistMatteoVigo,archaeologistandhistorianBeritHildebrandt,archaeologistMalgozataSiennicka,assyriologistSalvatoreGaspa,philologistPederFlemestad,archaeologistRominaLaurito,anthropologistFlaviaCarraro,archaeologistCarolineSauvageandcollaborationwithProfessorCécileMichel,CNRS.SCIENTIFICFOCUSAREASIN2015TheTEMAgroup’saimwaspartlytoconductindividualresearchprojects,suchaspostdoctoralandPhDprojects,andpartlytocompletejointprojects.SeveralTEMAteammembersfinishedtheirresearchprojectsatCTR.ThelongstandingcollaborationbetweenCTRandCNRSmaterializedinanewandlargecollaboration:GDRI=GroupementdedevelopementderechercheinternationalbasedonthepreviousprogrammeATOM:AncientTextilesintheOrientandMediterranean,incollaborationwithCécileMichel,CNRSFranceandMaryHarlow,LeicesterUniversity,fundedbyCNRS.TheprogrammewasevaluatedbyCNRSandfundedfor3years,foractivitiessuchastravels,conferences,andpublications.Wehavetogetherdraftedanintenseprogramofresearchandactivitiesbetweenthethreeinstitutions.ToolsandTextiles1. ThemajorœuvreofCTR,plannedandpreparedsince2005isnowout:EvaAndersson&Marie‐LouiseNosch(eds.)Tools,TextilesandContexts,AncientTextilesSeries21,Oxbow(2015)(402p).ItcontainsacomprehensivedescriptionofCTRToolmethodologyandtoolstudiesaswellasguidelinesfortextileexperimentalarchaeology,and15casestudiesconductedbyCTRandcollaboratorsonseveralAegean,AnatolianandLevantinesites.TextilesandCult1. PhDfellowCecilieBrønsdefendedherdissertationonGodsandGarments.TextilesinGreeksanctuariesinthe7thtothe1stcenturyBC.Thethesiswascompletedinexactly3yearsanditwasdefendedsuccessfullyon13thFebruary2015.ThethesisisacceptedforpublicationasamonographintheAncientTextilesSeries.Brønsproceededin2015toapostdocpositionintheNyCarlsbergGlyptotek,whereshealsobecamePIofalargerprojectoncoloursinantiquesculpture.2. GaspafinishedhisCTRresearchprojectonNeo‐Assyriantextileintextsandimages,andalsoreceivedfundingfromtheCarlsbergFoundationtohostaninternationalworkshopontextilesinsanctuariesandcultsoftheBronzeAge6‐7October.TextileTerminologyinfromthe1stmillenniumBCEtothe1stmillenniumCE1. Noschspent3months(January‐March)asvisitingfellowinCNRSPariswithCécileMichelandtheyco‐editedanddiscussedthemanychaptersoftheinternationalconferenceTextileTerminologiesfromOrienttotheMediterraneanandEurope,1000BCto1000AD(45speakersfrom11Europeancountries,Israel,EgyptandChina).TheconferencewillbepublishedbyNosch,MichelandGaspa2. Numerousimportantpapersonthethemeoftextileterminologywerewritten,submitted,publishedbyGaspa,Nosch,Flemestad,Lervad,Andres‐ToledoandHildebrandt.Textiletradeandtextilecirculationinantiquity1. NoschconvenedwithKerstinDross‐KrüpeandinternationalconferenceinKassel:TextiletradeanddistributionfromtheAncientNearEasttotheMediterranean1000BCto400AD/Textilhandelund‐distribution.VomAltenOrientzumMittelmeerraum,1000v.Chr.bis400n.Chr.KasselUniversität,11.‐14November2015.Theaimwastocombinestudiesinancienteconomywithtextile

  

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research.Theconferencewasco‐fundedbyDeutscheForschungsgemeinschaft(DFG)andtheHumboldtFoundation.Some40internationalscholarsparticipated.Theconferencewillbepublishedin2016.

Aegeanepigraphy1. Noschwas in2006 appointed representative for the Scandinavian countries inCIPEM(Comité International Permanent d’ÉtudesMycéniennes) and in 2010 elected secrétaire général inCIPEM. This was an opportunity to convene the international conference of Aegean epigraphy inCopenhagen taking place every five years. The 14th Aegean conference was hosted by Nosch andLandenius‐EnegrenintheCarlsbergAcademy2‐5Septemberwiththeparticipationof56internationalscholars.NoschandLandenius‐EnegrenwillpublishtheproceedingswithintheItalianscholarlyseriesIncunabulaGraecabyCNR,Rome,in2016.TextilearchaeologyoftheancientNearEast1. InJuly,AnderssonStrand,CécileMichel(CNRS)andCatherineBreniquet(UniversitéClermont‐Ferrand2)conductedjointfieldworkatKültepe,CentralAnatoliabasedonthestudyoftextileandbasketimprintsonclayartefacts(bullae)fromtheEarlyandMiddleBronzeAgelevels.Themethodologyforasystematicstudyofimprintshasprogressedandyieldednewresults.2. ThejointresearchontextileproductionduringtheEarlyBronzeAgewasin2015presentedattheEuropeanArchaeologistsAssociation(EAA)conferenceandatthe2ndKültepeInternationalMeeting.FirstTextiles1. ThecollaborativeresearchprojectFirstTextiles focusingonNeolithicandEarlyBronzeAgetextile production is directed by Siennicka. InMay she convened an international conference, FirstTextiles,inCopenhagen,onthetopicoftextileproductioninEuropeandtheMediterraneaninthe4thand3rdmillenniaBCE.Atotalof31scholarsfrom14countrieswereinvolvedwithpaperscoveringalarge number of themes and approaches displaying the large but understudied topic of prehistorictextileproduction.

TEXTILECRAFTSANDCULTURES(TECC)(2010‐2016)STAFFArchaeologistUllaMannering,geochemistandarchaeologistKarinMargaritaFrei,archaeologistEvaAnderssonStrand,conservatorIreneSkals,conservatorAnne‐LisbethSchmidt,photographerRobertoFortuna,archaeologistIdaDemant,anthropologistFlaviaCarraro,labassistantCristinaOlsen,archaeologistLuiseØrstedBrandt,PhDstudent,archaeologistCharlotteRimstad,PhDstudent,archaeologistViviLenaAndersen.Prof.EmeritaUllaLundHansenandarchaeologistLeneB.Frandsen(VardeMuseum)alsoparticipatedinthescientificwork.SCIENTIFICFOCUSAREASIN2015ThefocuswasfullyplacedonthedisseminationofresearchresultsandthecontinuedworkontheBronzeandEarlyIronAgetextilecollectionsattheNationalMuseumofDenmark.ThecollaborationwithKristianKristiansenandtheresearchersemployedintheERCAdvancedGrantTheRise.Travels,transmissionsandtransformationsintemperatenorthernEuropeduringthe3rdand2ndmillenniumBC:theriseofBronzeAgesocietiesatUniversityofGothenburgsuccessfullycontinued:Frei,K.M.,Mannering,U.,Kristiansen,K.,Allentoft,M.E.,Wilson,A.S.,Skals,I.,Tridico,S.,Nosch,M.‐L.,Willerslev,E.,Clarke,L.,Frei,R.(2015)TracingthedynamiclifestoryofaBronzeAgeFemale,ScientificReports21May2015,5:10431|DOI:10.1038/srep10431.1. TheEgtvedGirl.Recentground‐breakingresearchCTRmadeheadlinesworldwidewhenitwaspublishedthattheEgtvedGirl,buriedinanoak‐coffininJutlandinDenmark,originatedfromanareamanyhundredsofkilometresfromwhereshewasburied.Geo‐chemicalanalysesofsamplesofherbodytissue,moreover,suggestthatshehadbeenhighlymobileinthetwoyearspriortoherdeath.

  

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Approximatelyoneandahalfyearbeforeherdeath,whenshewas14‐16yearsold,sheembarkedonalongjourney,probablytoScandinavia.Thestrontiumisotopeanalysesperformedonherteeth,demonstratethatshegrewupinanareafarawayfromtheplacewhereshewasburiedandwherewepreviouslythoughtshewouldhavelivedallherlife.Alltogetherthecomplexgeo‐chemicalsignaturepointtowardsthemostlikelyplacebeingtheBlackForestareainpresent‐daySouthernGermany.2. TheEgtvedGirl’sclothing.StrontiumisotopeanalyseshaveshownthatthewoolintheEgtvedgirl’sclothingwasmadeofnon‐localwoolthatdidnotderivefromDenmark(theislandofBornholmexcluded).Thisproofsthatwoolproductionandperhapsclothmakingwerepartofthehighlyprestigiouslong‐distancetradesystemintheNordicBronzeAge.TheclothingisofatypicalNordicdesign,comparabletotextilesfoundinotherfemalegravesdatedtotheBronzeAge.Thetextileanalysisalonewouldthusnothavebeenabletoreachthisconclusion.3. NumerouspapersonthethemeofBronzeandEarlyIronAgetextiletechnologywerewritten,submittedandpublishedbyMannering,FreiandAnderssonStrand.4. NewpermanentexhibitionoftheDanishBronzeAgetextiles.ManneringhasbeeninchargeoftherearrangingoftheexhibitioninRoom8attheNationalMuseumofDenmark.ThishasledtoanewdisplaywithmanymoreBronzeAgetextilesandexhibitiontextsincorporatingthelatestresearchonDanishBronzeAgetextileproduction.5. PhDfellowLuiseØrstedBrandtdefendedherdissertationonSpeciesidentificationofskinsanddevelopmentofsheepwool.Aninterdisciplinarystudycombiningtextilesresearch,archaeology,andbiomolecularmethods.ThePhDwasconductedincollaborationwithDNRF’sCentreforGeoGenetics.CRAFTTECHNOLOGYANDEXPERIMENTALARCHAEOLOGYINDIGITALSPACE(CEADS)Computerapplicationsisapowerfultooltoenhanceourknowledgeofthecomplexityandvarietyofartefacts,theirproduction,andhowvariouscrafttraditionsdevelopovertime,yieldingnewinsightsandperspectivesapplicabletoancientsocietiesaswellastotraditionalcrafttoday.TwonewresearchprojectshavebeeninitiatedatCTR1)MotionCapture(MoCap)combiningexperimentalarchaeologyandcrafttechnology,enablingtorecordmovementsofcraftspeopletodayforanewunderstandingoftacitcraftknowledgeandcraftpracticeinproducingobjects2)3Dscanningtodevelopnewnon‐destructivemethodstoanalyse,documentandcommunicatepastcrafttechnologiesonthesurfacesoffragilearchaeologicalobjects.TheaimistodevelopadigitallaboratorythatwillplaceDenmarkattheglobalforefrontof3‐dimensionalmethodologiesandexperimentalarchaeologicalresearchinordertoilluminatehowthebodyandmindareinvolvedintheproductionprocessesbehindancienttechnologyandthecreationofobjects.TheprojectsareselectedtobePartofDigHumLab2andthenewDanishRoadmapofresearchinfrastructure2016‐2020.CTRANDCHINASince2009,CTRhashadanintensivecollaborationwithDirector,Prof.ZhaoFengfromtheChinaNationalSilkMuseum(CNSM)andDonghuaUniversity,Shanghai.NoschwasnominatedboardmemberofresearchunitinCNSMin2013‐2015,andherpositionontheboardwasrenewedfor2015‐2017.In2016thiscollaborationincludeeditingandtranslationintoChineseoftheCTRanthologyGlobalTextileEncounters,editedbyNosch,ZhaoandVaradarajan,tobepublishedinChinesein2015byDonghuaUniversityPress.ManneringandZhaoeditedtheconferenceproceedingsofthe2013workshopheldinCNSMandco‐hostedbyCTRonWoolontheSilkRoad.NoschwasinHangzhouinOctobertogivealectureandchairasessionattheinternationalconferenceSilksfromtheSilkRoad:Origin,TransmissionandExchange.Symposium,Hangzhou,China,Oct.11th‐‐Oct.14th.CTRalsobecamefoundingmembersoftheInternationalassociationontheStudyofSilkRoadtextiles(IASSRT)togetherwithCNSM,BritishLibrary,TheHermitagemuseuminRussia,QueenSirikitTextileMuseuminBangkok,andotherprestigiousinstitutions.

  

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MARIECURIEMASTERCLASS2015Since2011CTRhashostedanannualinternationalmasterclassaimingtoattractyoungEuropeanscholarstoCTRandtheUniversityofCopenhagen.ThemodelisnowcopiedinDanishandforeignuniversities.Thisyear’smasterclasswasarrangedbyNosch,AnderssonStrand,FanfaniandEbert,andwasattendedby10candidatesfromGermany,Greece,France,Poland,EgyptandItaly.Tosupporttheirapplications,theyreceivedexpertguidanceontheapplicationprocessfromuniversitystaffandEUconsultants,andwerecloselymonitoredbyCTRstaff,withone‐to‐onementoringandpeerreviewsessionswithexpertsintheirfields.TenapplicationsforMarieCuriemobilitygrantsweresubmitted,andtwoscholarswererecipientsoffundingfromHorizon2020.TheywilljoinCTRin2016‐2018.CTRINPERUInNovember,alargegroupofCTRscholarsandcolleaguesfromDenmarkandabroadembarkedona10dayslectureandstudytourtoPeru,oneofthefewcountrieswitharchaeologicaltextilespreserved(likeDenmark)andthuswithextensiveinterestandresearchinPre‐Colombiantextiles,aswellasastronglivingtraditionforweavingandspinning.CTRscholarsvisitedthemajorarchaeologicalsites,museums,departmentsoftextileconservation,andmetwithPeruviancolleaguesinmuseums(HuacaMalenaarchaeologicalmuseum,Patacamacarchaeologicalmuseum,NationalMuseuminLima,Nazcaarchaeologicalmuseum)anduniversities(SanMarcoUniversityandthePontificalCatholicUniversityinLima).TherewerealsoseveralencounterswithPeruviancraftassociationandweavers.CTRstaffgavelecturesinthefamoustextilemuseuminLima(MuseoAmano)andinSanMarcoUniversityinthedepartmentofconservationstudies.Thetourwasdocumentedbytheparticipantsonthebloghttp://www.traditionaltextilecraft.dk/.ManyPeruviancolleagueswillvisitDenmarkinJune2016whenCTRhoststheworldconferenceonPre‐Colombiantextiles.CONCLUSIONCTR’smajormilestonesandachievementsfor2015were:1. Docent,Ph.D.EvaAnderssonStrandfromCTRwasappointedassociateprofessorintextilearchaeologyattheSaxoInstitute,UniversityofCopenhagen,andthisisthefirstchairintextilearchaeologyworld‐wide.2. PublicationofthelandmarkresearchprogrammeTTTC:EvaAndersson&Marie‐LouiseNosch(eds.)Tools,TextilesandContextsinAncientTextilesSeries.3. TwoPhDstudentsfinishedtheirdissertationsandcontinuedinpostdocpositionsinDanishinstitutions4. FourinternationalfellowscametoCTRtoconductresearchprojectsontextilesincollaborationwithCTRstaff.TheseareMariaPapadopoulou,KalliopiSarri,CorinneThépaut‐Cabasset,andJaneMalcolmDavies.TheirfellowshipsarefundedbytheMarieSklodowskaCurieMobilityprogrammewithdurationof2years.5. TheEgtvedfindyieldednumerouspapersandmuchattentionininternationalmedia.TheCTRbloghttp://www.traditionaltextilecraft.dk/hassofarmorethan130,000views.Vedunderskriftenbekræftesdet,atberetningogregnskabmedtilhørendenoterogoversigterindeholderallerelevanteoplysninger,somvedrøreråretsprimæreaktiviteteriDanmarksGrundforskningsfondsCenterforTekstilforskningMarch2016Marie‐LouiseB.Nosch,Director