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Inakaya (p164) A loud and joyful beer and BBQ spot Japanese style of course!

Kybei (p158) Exquisite sushi served on rare pottery. LOsier (p158) Regarded by France-loving Tokyoites as

one of the citys best. New York Grill (p169) The views from this lofty

Shinjuku restaurant are almost as good as the food. Rakutei (p163) Tempura is regarded as a high art at

this culinary temple. Peter (p156) Foi gras meets fatty tuna at the Peninsula

Hotels celebrated dining room. Canal Caf (p157) Savour a slow cocktail at one of the

citys few al fresco dining spots. Daiwa Sushi (p160) This Tsujkiji institution will make

you rethink sushi for breakfast. China Room (p164) A Roppongi Hills affair all the way,

this Chinese banquet-style restaurant is tops. Coucagno (p167) Spot Shibuya shoppers from lofty

heights at this landmark French restaurant.

Whats your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/tokyo

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EATING

ETIQUETTEIf youre worried about putting your foot in it,

relax the Japanese dont expect you to knoweverything, and are unlikely to be offended aslong as you follow the standards of politenessof your own country. Just follow the locals f orthings such as lifting soup bowls and slurp-ing noodles.

Among the more important rules are thoseregarding chopsticks. Dont stick them up-right in your rice thats how rice is offered tothe dead! Passing food from your chopsticksto someone elses is a similar no-no thatshow the bones of the dead are passed in Bud-dhist funeral rites.

When taking food from shared plates,

avoid using the end of the chopsticks thatsalready been in your mouth invert yourchopsticks before reaching for that tasty mor-sel. When there are shared dishes, you willusually be given a torizara (small plate) touse as your own.

Before digging in, its polite to sayitadakimas[u](literally I will receive). Atthe end of the meal you should say gochis-sama deshita(literally it was a feast), a re-spectful way of saying that the meal was good.Even if youre just enjoying a cup of coffee orsampling some snacks at a shop, its polite touse these expressions.

If youre out drinking, remember thatyoure expected to keep the drinks of yourcompanions topped up beer bottles in Japan

are typically large (at least 500mL) and theglasses small. Hold your glass with both handswhile its being filled, and dont fill your ownglass; wait for someone to do this for you,and if youre done just leave your glass full.The Japanese equivalent of cheers is kampai!Dont use the Mediterranean toast chin chinunless you want to induce pea ls of laughter. Ittranslates to what boys have and girls dont!

The word for delicious is oishii if youonly learn a handful of words in Japanese,make this one of them! If theres somethingyou dont like, just leave it on your plate orin your bowl and dont make a big deal of it.If youre at a group dinner and have eatenenough, and the server brings more food, itsbest just to accept it and leave it, rather thansend it back.

If someone invites you to eat or drink withthem, they will be paying. In any case, itsunusual for bills to be split. Generally, atthe end of the meal something of a struggleensues to see who gets the privilege of paying.If this happens, it is polite to at least make aneffort to pay the bill, though it is extremelyunlikely that your hosts will acquiesce. Ex-ceptions are likely among younger peopleor co-workers, for example, out for lunchtogether.

If youre arriving at someones home, it ispolite to bring a gift. See p139 for suggestions.

And if you have been someones guest, be sureto thank them upon leaving. Following upwith a thank you note is an excellent touch.

EATINGETIQUETTE

WHAT TO EAT & WHERESushi & SashimiThe tonnes of fish that pass through the fishmarket in Tsukiji (for more information seep64) are the telltale signs of what locals areeating. Almost every Japanese meal you eatwill probably include something fishy, andat times the sheer variety of seafood availablein Tokyo can be overwhelming.

With that said, the first thing most visitors

in Tokyo are intent on eating is either sushi( or ) or sashimi (). Sushi israw fish served with sweetened, vinegaredrice while sashimi is slices of raw fish servedwith soy sauce for dipping.

There are two main types of sushi: nigiri-zushi (; a small slice of fish servedon a small pillow of rice) and maki-zushi (; served in a seaweed roll). Lesser-known varieties include chirashi-zushi (; a layer of rice covered in strips of fish,

vegetables and jul ienned egg), oshi-zushi (; fish pressed in a mould over rice) andinari-zushi (; rice in a pocket of

sweet, fried tofu). Nigiri-zushi and maki-zushiusually contain a bit of wasabi (; hotgreen horseradish).

Sushi shops run the gamut from cheap andcheerful kaiten-zushi (; conveyor-beltparlours) and stand-up eateries to more expen-sive and highly refined bars and restaurants.Generally speaking, quality is equated to price,though its not necessary to eat a t the best of thebest to indulge in great sushi. With Tsukiji fishmarket right around the corner, chances arethat everything you taste will be significantlyfresher than the sushi you eat back home.

NoodlesIts hard to imagine how Tokyo could functionwithout noodles. From traditional Japanesestaples such as soba (buckwheat noodles) andudon, to that much beloved Chinese importthat is rmen, Tokyoites slurp down an impres-sive amount of noodles in their daily lives.

Soba are thin, brownish buckwheat-basednoodles, while udon are thick, white wheatnoodles. Soba is more closely associated withthe Kant region, which includes Tokyo,

while udon are more reminiscent of Kansai(around Osaka). With that said, the vast ma-

jority of resta urants thro ughout the countryserve both.

When hot, both varieties are served in alarge bowl of light, bonito-flavoured broth.You can also order them served cold and piledon a bamboo mat; very refreshing in warmweather. Note that although its highly rudein the West, it is customary to slurp yournoodles, both to cool them (when hot) andto enhance the flavour.

The most popular type of cold noodles iszaru soba, topped with slivers of dried nori

(; seaweed). They come with a cup ofcool broth and small plate of wasabi andsliced spring onions stir these into the cupof broth and eat the noodles by dipping themin this mixture. Do not pour the broth overthe noodles it creates a huge mess! At theend of your meal, the server may give yousome of the hot water used for boiling thenoodles to mix with the leftover broth , whichyou drink like tea.

Rmen originated in China, but its popular-ity in Japan is epic. Your basic rmen is a bigbowl of noodles in broth, served with toppings E

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Who could ever weary of moonlit nights and well-cooked rice?

Traditional Japanese Proverb

Tomes have been written about Japanese food, not least on the delights of noodles, the perilsand pleasures of raw fish, and the health-inducing properties of everything from shiitakemushrooms and miso soup to pickled ginger and fresh wasabi. As visitors to Tokyo quickly

discover, Japanese people are absolutely obsessed with food.In Japan the simple act of eating permeates every walk of life, fills the airwaves and book-shelves, and figures largely in most conversations. Indeed, an invitation to have a meal with aJapanese person is better seen as an opportunity to commune over food. Breaking bread (orsplitting rice) is an act of mutual celebration, a way of reinforcing group identities and welcom-ing outsiders into the fold.

Needless to say, the Japanese are voracious gourmands, and a highlight of any trip toTokyo is its vast culinary landscape. From traditional Japanese staples such as sashimi andtempura, to more modern inventions such as rmen (noodles) and shabu-shabu (sautedbeef), Japanese cuisine is as varied as it is simply delicious. See the Language chapter (p259)for more information.

SUSHI PRIMERSo, youve made it to the sushi restaurant, but now youre feeling a bit dumbfounded about what to do next. Heres aquick crash course to help you get started.

If youre seated at the sushi counter, you can simply point at what you want; most of the selections are visible in arefrigerated glass case between you and the itamae (sushi chef ). One portion (ichi-nin mae) usually means two piecesof sushi. If ordering la carte feels like a chore, you can order a mori-awase (assortment, generally six or seven pieces);prices vary according to the type of fish used.

Unless the sushi is already dressed with a sauce, youll probably want to dip it in shyu (soy sauce) before poppingit into your mouth. Pour just a little soy sauce at a time from the bottle on the counter into the small saucer provided(dont fill the saucer), and if there is a side of wasabi, add a little at a time it can be very hot! Remember, the soysauce is used to flavour the fish and not the rice, so dont dip your sushi rice-side down (plus, the rice tends to fallapart in the soy sauce).

If youre not good at using chopsticks, dont worry, sushi is one of the few foods in Japan that it is perfectly acceptableto eat with your hands. Slices ofgari(pickled ginger) are served to help refresh the palate. The beverage of choice withsushi is beer or sake, with a cup of cloudy green tea at the end of the meal.

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such as sliced pork, bean sprouts and leeks,though you can expect to see anything fromHokkaid butter corn and fresh seafood towontons and Chinese vegetables. Althoughyou may be a loyal rmen devotee in yourown country, we can assure you that instantnoodles in the West are ill-preparation for thedeliciousness that is real rmen.

As the bread and butter of most Japanese,a large number of noodle shops in Tokyo aresimple tachigui (; stand-and-eat)affairs. Of course, depending on what kindof mood youre in and how much cash youwant to part with, you can instead choose aslower, more sophisticated sit-down noodleshop, or a highly refined restaurant servingup handmade noodles on impressive spreads(usually bamboo or other natural plant ma-terial served on fine china).

IzakayaIzakaya () translates as drinkinghouse, the Japanese equivalent of a pub.Theyre great places for a casual meal, with awide selection of food, hearty atmosphere and,of course, plenty of beer and sake. Izakaya canbe identified by their rustic faades and thered lanterns outside their doors.

Patrons typically order a few dishes ata time, from a selection of Japanese foodssuch asyakitori (; skewers of grilledchicken), kushiyaki ( ; other grilled

skewers, often vegetables), sashimi andgrilled fish, as well as Japanese interpreta-tions of Western foods such as french fries

and beef stew. Say toriaezu (thats all fornow) when finished ordering each set ofdishes.

Izakaya food is usually fairly inexpensive.Depending on how much you drink, youcan expect to spend just 2000 to 5000 perperson.

TempuraTempura () consists of portions offish, prawns and vegetables cooked in fluffy,nongreasy batter. Typically, tempura is servedwith a small bowl often-tsuyu (; a lightbrown sauce) and a plate of grated daikon (;white radish)to mix into the sauce aheadof time. Dip each piece of tempura into thissauce before eating it. Tempura is best whenits hot, so dont wait too long use the sauce

to cool each piece, and dig in.Although there are speciality tempura

restaurants in Tokyo, the dish is commonlyfound elsewhere, such as at izakaya.

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Sukiyaki, Shabu-shabu &YakinikuSukiyaki, shabu-shabu and yakiniku are fa-

vourites of most foreign visitors to Japan, per-haps because you get to cook them yourselfat the table.

Sukiyaki() consists of thin slicesof beef cooked in a broth of soy sauce, sugarand sake together with a variety of vegetablesand tofu. After cooking, dip the ingredients

one by one in raw egg before eating. Whenmade with high-quality beef, such as that fromKbe, it is a sublime experience.

Shabu-shabu () consistsof thin slices of beef and vegetables cookedby swirling the ingredients in a light broth(shabu-shabuis an onomatopoeia for theswish-swish sound the beef makes in thepot), then dipping them in special sesameseed and/or citrus-based sauce.

Yakiniku () consists of thin slices ofbeef or pork that are grilled over hot coals,and then dipped in a variety of sauces. A vari-ation on Korean barbecue,yakiniku is typi-cally eaten with kimchi (; spicy pickledcabbage) and rice, and is currently one of themost popular types of cuisine in Tokyo.

All three of these dishes are prepared in apot over a fire at your table; your server willusually help you get started and keep a closewatch. Take your time, add the ingredients lit-tle by little and savour the flavours as you go.

OkonomiyakiThe name means cook what you like, andokonomiyaki is an inexpensive opportunity todo just that. Sometimes described as Japanese

pizza or pancake, the resemblance is in formonly. At an okonomiyaki restaurant you sitaround a teppan (iron hotplate), armed witha spatula and chopsticks to cook your choiceof meat, seafood and vegetables in a cabbageand vegetable batter.

Some restaurants will do most of the cook-ing and bring the nearly finished product toyour hotplate for you to season with katsuobushi (; bonito flakes), soy sauce, ao-nori(; a sea green similar to parsley), Japa-nese Worcestershire-style sauce and mayon-naise. Cheaper places, however, will simplyhand you a bowl filled with the ingredientsand expect you to cook it for yourself. If thishappens, dont panic.

First, mix the batter and filling thoroughly,then place it on the hot grill, flattening it intoa thick pancake. After five minutes or so, usethe spatulas to flip it and cook for another fiveminutes. Then season and dig in.

Most okonomiyaki places also serveyaki-soba (; fried noodles) and yasai-itame (; stir-fried vegetables). Allof this is washed down with mugs of draughtbeer. Also look for okonomiyaki at festivalsand street fairs.

ShokudA shokud () is the most common typeof restaurant in Japan, and is found near trainstations, tourist spots and just about any otherplace where people congregate. Easily dis-tinguished by the presence of plastic fooddisplays in the window, these inexpensiveplaces usually serve a variety ofwashoku (; Japanese) andyshoku (; Western)dishes. E

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THE HISTORY OF RMENThe history and lore behind natures most perfect food is worthy of textbooks.

Originating in China, scholars debate exactly when this hardiest of noodles was first introduced to Japan. Althoughit may have crossed over at several times in the history of the nation, the first documented record of rmen-eating wasin the late 17th century by the shgun of the Tokugawa.

Of course, rmen was not introduced to the Japanese masses until the Meiji era when the country first opened itsdoors to foreign interests. For most of Japans history, the diet consisted simply of steamed rice, vegetables and seafood,which partly explains why the countrys people suddenly became incessant gourmands in the late 19th century.

During the Meiji era, American and European cuisine became the height of fashion, which sparked a large cattle- andpork-rearing industry in Japan. However, the real culinary revolution of the late 19th century was taking place in the

Chinatowns of Kbe and Yokohama, where Chinese immigrants opened up food stalls in the busy ports. Here, along withChinese-style dumplings, Japanese commoners tasted their first bowls of hot, steaming rmen.

WWII put something of a damper on the Japanese obsession with eating gourmet, though the food industry wasquick to bounce back. In the 1950s cheap US flour imports flooded the Japanese market, while ex-soldiers who hadpreviously been in China proceeded to set up Chinese restaurants across the country. In a few short years rmen shopstook Japan by storm, becoming something of a neighbourhood landmark.

Today, rmen shops are found throughout the country, and although their nutritional value is somewhat debated,warming up with a bowl of rmen remains the great social equaliser in Japan.

PLACES TO GO FOR BROKE Botan (p160) Coucagno(p167) Nobu(p168) shima Endomae-Dokoro (p173) Peter(p156)

THE HOLY TRINITY OF JAPANESE FOODAlthough modern Japanese cuisine is highly refined, for millennia Japanese people survived on just three staple crops,namely rice, soya beans and pickled vegetables. Today these humble food items are often passed over in favour of fishand meats, though they continue to make a small but profound presence at virtually every meal.

Rice is more than just food in Japan; its an essential component of Japanese culture. Throughout the majority ofJapans history, communities were founded on and maintained by rice farming. In fact, the food is so central to theJapanese idea of eating that the word for rice, gohan (), is also the word for a meal. Despite the influx of foreigncuisines, rice remains the centrepiece of a Japanese meal.

The humble soya bean has a revered place in the Japanese food pantheon, especially since its versatile and mon-strously good for you. You probably are familiar with soy sauce (;shyu) but may not know that miso (; fermented soya bean paste) also comes from the soya bean. Tofu (; soya bean curd) is another soya staple,as well as edamame (), which are whole soya bean pods that have been quickly boiled.

Tsukemono(; pickled vegetables) were essential to the diet of the Japanese who until very recently had no wayof procuring fresh vegetables for much of the year. In honour of this tradition, pickles are still eaten today, with the mostcommon being made from daikon (; a large, long white radish), eggplant, cucumber and mixed greens.

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At lunch, and sometimes at dinner, theeasiest meal to order at a shokudis a teishoku(; set-course meal), which is sometimesalso called ranchi setto (; lunchset) or ksu (; set meal). This usuallyincludes a main dish of meat or fish, a bowlof rice, miso soup, a small salad and sometsukemono (; pickled vegetables).

KaisekiKaiseki (; elegant ceremonial food) is the

pinnacle of Japanese cuisine, where ingredi-ents, preparation, setting and presentationcome together to create a dining experiencequite unlike any other. Born as an adjunct tothe tea ceremony, kaiseki is a largely vegetarianaffair (though fish is often ser ved, meat neverappears on the kaiseki menu). One usually eatskaiseki in the private room of a rytei (;an especially elegant style of traditional res-taurant), often overlooking a tranquil garden.The meal is served in several small courses,giving the diner an opportunity to a dmire theplates and bowls, which are carefully chosen tocomplement the food and season. Rice is eaten

last (usually with an assortment of pickles) andthe drink of choice is sake or beer.

TonkatsuTonkatsu () is a deep-fried, crumbedpork cutlet served with a savoury sauce.Tonkatsu is a staple that appears in most Japa-nese restaurants, though youll have to head tothe speciality shops for the good stuff.

UnagiEven if you cant stand the creature, you oweit to yourself to tryunagi (; freshwater

eel) at least once while in Tokyo. Its cookedover hot coals and brushed with a rich saucecomposed of soy sauce and sake. Often youcan sprinkle it with powdered sansh (

; Sichuan pepper), a pungent herb thathas numbing properties in the mouth. Someunagi restaurants keep barrels of live eels toentice passers-by.

FuguThe deadlyfugu (globefish, aka puffer fishor blowfish) is eaten more for the thrill thanthe taste. The actual meat is rather bland butacclaimed for its fine texture. Nonetheless, ifyou have the money to lay out for afugu din-

ner (around 10,000), it makes a good beenthere, done that story.

Since most of its internal organs (especiallythe liver) are highly poisonous, fugu can onlybe prepared by chefs who have a licence andhave undergone extensive training. With thatsaid, the danger offugu poisoning is negli-gible, though Japanese joke that you shouldalways let your dining companion try the firstpiece offugu. If they are still talking after fiveminutes, you can consider the dish safe.

If youre eatingfugu because youve beenchallenged by a Japanese friend, and you wantto repay them with a cruel joke, hold your

hand still and let your chopsticks drop ontothe table (in case of poisoning, the extremi-ties go first). On second thought, dont dothis, as it will probably alarm everyone elsein the restaurant.

For some liquid courage, try a glass ofhire-zake (toastedfugu fin in hot sake), the tradi-tional accompaniment to afugu dinner.

SweetsAlthough most Japanese-style restaurantsdont serve dessert (plates of sliced fruit aresometimes served at the end of a meal), there

is no lack of sweets in Japan. Wagashi (; traditional Japanese sweets) are sold inspeciality stores for you to eat at home. Manyof the more delicate-looking ones are made tobalance the strong, bitter taste of the specialmatcha (; whisked green tea) served dur-ing the tea ceremony.

Even if you have the sweetest tooth in theworld and have sampled every type of sweetthats come your way, you may find your-self surprised by Japanese confectionery.Many sweets contain the red adzuki-beanpaste called anko (). This earthy,rich filling turns up in a variety of pastries,

including those you pick up at the cornerbakery shop. Legions of foreign visitors havebeen surprised not altogether unpleas-

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antly expecting chocolate and findinganko instead.

With such a wide variety of sweets, its im-possible to list all the names. However, youllprobably find many variations on the ankowith mochi (; glutinous rice) theme. Sweetshops are easy to spot they usually have openfronts with their wares attractively laid out inwooden trays to tempt hungry shoppers.

For Western-style sweets, try cafs, coffeeshops and pastry shops for a variety of cakes,

muffins and the like; these are also abundantin Tokyo. If all else fails duck into a conven-ience store for aisukurmu (; ice cream) or chokorto (;chocolate).

DrinksUnlike the Western world, sodas and othersweetened drinks rarely appear on the menu(with the exception of course being Western-style fast-food restaurants). Needless to say,the beverage of choice in Japan is o-cha (; green tea), which is served hot or colddepending on the time of year. You can also

expect to find subtle variations on this tradi-tional brew.

Although the canned coffee you get fromvending machines does resemble the watered-down brews you find in the US, European-style cafs serving the good stuff are found on

virtually every corner in Tokyo. In addition tothe standard cup of khii(; coffee),you can also expect to find esupursu (; espresso), kapuchno (; cappuccino) and even matcha-rte (; matcha latte).

When it comes to alcohol, the Japaneseare avid consumers of bru (; beer),

which tend to be light and easy-drinking la-gers. Wain (; wine) and uisuki (; whiskey) are also fairly common tipples,though their high-status means that theyresignificantly more expensive than in the West.Surprisingly, sake or nihonshu ( or ; rice wine) is falling out of favour with theyounger generation, though the potent shch(; distilled grain liquor) is becoming everso fashionable.

Vegetarians & VegansJapan can be a frustrating place for vegetarians

and vegans, especially since dashi (; fishstock) is used as a base for most dishes. On thebright side however, the more cosmopolitan

neighbourhoods in Tokyo boast vegetarianeateries, many of them serving vegan mealsand exclusively organic produce. For a list ofthe top picks for vegetarians, see above.

PRACTICALITIESFor first-timers (and some seasoned veter-ans) in Tokyo, deciphering Japanese menus isenough to make anyone lose their appetite. Ifyou fall into this category, consider searchingout restaurants where English menus are avail-able. Throughout this chapter, we have added

a simple E to listings where this is the case.

Opening HoursRestaurants in hubs such as Shinjuku, Ike-bukuro or Shibuya are usually open sevendays a week from 11am or noon until 9pm or10pm, with many offering set specials duringlunch hours. In smaller eateries in less centralareas such as Ebisu or Asakusa, hours oftenrun shorter, and its not unusual to find someplaces shuttered on Sunday, Monday or Tues-day. Generally, the lunch hour goes from 11amor noon to 2pm or 3pm, while dinner is servedfrom 5pm or 6pm to 9pm or 10pm. Last ordersare usually taken an hour or half-hour beforethe kitchen closes.

How Much?Haute cuisine fetches high prices here, as any-where else in the world. An upmarket sushidinner can easily run to 20,000. But despitewhat youve heard about Tokyos exorbi-tant prices, its possible to eat very well ona midrange or even modest budget withoutneeding to raid the shelves of the conveniencestores or eating curried rice twice a day. Goodwashoku (; Japanese set meal) can be had

for around 1000, and a tremendous bowlof noodle soup might set you back around700. You should know, too, that Tokyos

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INTERNATIONAL FOOD Canal Cafe(p157) China Room(p164) Daidaiya(p163) Fonda de la Madrugada (p168) Hannibal Deux (p169)

FOR VEGETARIANS Mominoki House(p169) Natural Harmony Angolo(p169) Nataraj(p159) Natural House(p166) Shizenkan II(p168)

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little-kept secret, the bargain lunch set, cansometimes put your foot in the door at pla cesthat might otherwise be beyond your budget.Remember too that tipping is not customary,and if you try it, you may get chased downthe street by staff wanting to reunite you withyour change.

Booking TablesReservations are essential at many top-endspots. Some of the finer Japanese restaurants

will be able to reserve a table for you over thephone, though in some cases it helps if you canspeak some Japanese. If you dont, your hotelcan usually make the booking for you. As formidrange and budget spots, reservations are un-necessary except in the case of larger groups.

IMPERIAL PALACE &MARUNOUCHITheres no shortage of restaurants in theproximity of Tokyo Station and the ImperialPalace, though a good number of them cater

to the dine-and-dash lunch crowd. Of course,even salarymen (businessmen) and govern-ment workers need a nice sit-down meal f romtime to time, which is why you can expect tofind a number of trendy and upmarket eater-ies scattered among the avenues.

PETER Map pp523 International %6270-2763; 24th fl, Peninsula Hotel, 1-8-1Yrakuch, Chiyoda-ku; set courses from 10,000;h11.30am-2.30pm & 6pm-midnight;bJRYamanote Line to Yrakuch (west exit); EIts hard to put a price on uncheckedluxury, especially when youre talkingabout the main dining room at the Tokyobranch of the world-famous PeninsulaHotel. Offering an eclectic breadth of in-

ternational cuisine, diners can choose froma variety of offerings ranging from fattytuna sashimi spreads to duck foie gras, andcreate their own unique set course. Whileyoure sipping fine wine and spoiling yourpalette with some of the finest delicaciesfrom around the world, enjoy the stunningview of Central Tokyo while pondering howgood life can be.

HUMP Map pp523 Sushi %5293-4813; 2nd fl, Marunouchi MY Plaza, 2-1-1Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; sushi plates 2000-3000

h11.30am-late;bJR Yamanote or MarunouchiLine to Tokyo (Marunouchi exits); EModelled after the original Hump, a famousLos Angeles sushi spot situated near thewater in Santa Monica, this Marunouchiinstalment marks the increasing popularity

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of California-style sushi in Tokyo. The maindining room boasts spectacular viewsoverlooking the moat of the Imperial Pal-ace, though diners in the know opt for theprivate sushi bar where you can order yourCalifornia rolls directly from the chef.

KUA AINA Map pp523 Burgers & Sandwiches %5220-2440; 5th fl, Marunouchi Bldg, 2-4-1Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; burgers 750-1500;h11am-11pm Mon-Sat, 11am-10pm Sun;bJRYamanote or Marunouchi Line to Tokyo (Marunouchiexits); EFrom the shores of Haleiwa comes thisHawaiian burger chain, which serves up theobligatory pineapple-topped burgers in atropical-themed setting. Lovers of avocado,

fabulous chips, savoury mahi-mahi filletsand innovative microbrews would be wiseto pop by for lunch, even if only to watchsalarymen dreaming of warmer climes.

CENTRAL TOKYOMore a geographic area than a contiguousneighbourhood, Central Tokyo lacks a de-finable personality to influence its restaurantscene. However, the heart of the city is hometo every imaginable type of restaurant, in-cluding a few gems that are definitely worthseeking out.

CANAL CAF Map p56 Italian %3260-8068; 1-9 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku; dishesaround 2000;h5.30pm-11.30pm Tue-Sun;bNamboku, Tzai, Yrakuch or Toei edo Line toIidabashi (exit B3); EWhen summer evenings in the capital hangheavy with humidity, you may long for acold glass of white wine and a light meal bythe riverside. Sadly, Tokyo has a regrettabledearth of alfresco restaurants with breathingroom, though rare canalside spots such asthis Iidabashi institution do exist. The speci-

ality here is wood-fired thin-crust pizzas andItalian pastas such as scallop and shrimp ina light cream sauce, though the real reason

youre here is to savour a cocktail whilesoaking up the European atmosphere.

KADO Map p56 Traditional %3268-2410; 1-32 Akagi-Motomachi, Shinjuku-ku; dishes around 2000;h11.30am-11pm;bNamboku, Tzai, Yrakuch or Toei edo Line toIidabashi (exit B3)If you havent had the privilege of eatingdinner inside a Japanese home, a meal

at Kado is a close approximation. Housedin a Shwa-era house built in 1950, Kadoreveals a rare glimpse of what life was likein Tokyo prior to the economic miracle thattransformed the capital in the second half ofthe 20th century. Dishes, which emphasisetraditional Japanese recipes and seasonalproduce, are enhanced by the incredibleservice and familial ambience. There is noEnglish menu, though the staff will try to ac-commodate you to the best of their ability.

BEER BAR BITTER Map p56 Belgian

%5261-3087; 1-14 Tsukudocho, Shinjuku-ku;dishes around 2000;h5.30pm-late Mon-Fri;bNamboku, Tzai, Yrakuch or Toei edo Line toIidabashi (exit C1); E

This backstreet restaurant in Kagurazak acan be tough to find (hint look up!),though like all hidden establishments, it iscertainly worth the effort. In addition to thestandard Japanese pub offerings, Bitter hasa number of traditional European stapleson the menu including steamed musselsand shepherds pie, though dont let theseculinary concoctions distract you from theimpressive Belgian beer menu.

SEIGETSU Map p56 Izakaya %3269-4320; 6-77-1 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku;dishes around 1500;h5pm-late;bNamboku,Tzai, Yrakuch or Toei edo Line to Iidabashi(exit C1)In a district that is increasingly becomingdominated by chain pubs, this traditionalJapanese izakaya is perfect for all of yourdining and drinking needs, especially sincethere are on-call shch consultants tohelp you match your meal to your booze.Although there isnt an English menu, the

speciality here is charcoal-grilled meats andvegetables, so you shouldnt have too manyproblems pointing out what you want.

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RESTAURANT PRIMERYouve made it to a Japanese restaurant, but now youre feeling a bit dumbfounded about what to do next. Heres aquick crash course to help you get started.

When you enter a restaurant, often the entire staff will shout a hearty irasshaimase!(welcome!). In all but the mostcasual places the waiter or waitress will next ask you, nan-mei sama?(how many people?). Indicate the answer withyour fingers, which is what the Japanese do, or respond with the number (eg san-nin for three people). You may alsobe asked if you would like to sit at a zashiki(low table on the tatami) or at a tburu (table) or kaunt (counter) . Moreand more restaurants these days offer the fun compromise of hori-kotatsu seating: you sit on the tatami, but theres awell beneath the table for you to place your legs.

Once seated you will be given an o-shibori(hot towel), a cup of tea or water and a menu. The o-shibori is for wipingyour hands and face. When youre finished with it, just roll it up and leave it next to your place. Now comes the hardpart: ordering. If you dont read Japanese, you can use the romanised translations in this chapter to help you, or directthe waiters attention to the Japanese script. If this doesnt work, there are two phrases that may help: o-susame wanan desuka?(what would you recommend?) and o-makase shimasu(I leave it to you). If youre still having problems,you can try pointing at other diners food or dragging the server outside to point at the plastic food displays in thewindow if the restaurant has them.

When youve finished eating, you can signal for the bill by crossing one index finger over the other to form an X. Thisis the standard sign for cheque please. You can also say o-kanj o kudasai. Remember, there is no tipping in Japanand tea and tap water are free. Usually you will be given a bill to take to the cashier at the front of the restaurant. Atmore upmarket places, the host of the party will discreetly ask to be excused and pay before the group leaves. Only the

bigger and more international places take credit cards.When leaving, it is polite to say to the restaurant staff gochis-sama deshita(it was a real feast).

PRICE GUIDE over 5000 a meal 2000-5000 a meal 2000 a meal or less

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GINZAGinza has always been a stronghold of thecitys finest restaurants, with excellent sushi,marvellous French haute cuisine and etherealsurroundings. It can be challenging to finda modestly priced meal in the evenings, butpoking around the resutoran-gai (restauranttowns) of department stores can turn up goodlunch deals.

LOSIER Map p62 French %3571-6050; 7-5-5 Ginza, Ch-ku; set coursesaround 5000;hnoon-2pm & 6-9.30pm;bGinza,Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exit B6)In Tokyo, French restaurants are at the topof the culinary ladder, which is why its nosmall feat that local gourmets considerLOsier to be the best around. But if you wishto analyse the foie gras yourself, youll needto book as far as possible in advance since atable at LOsier is a highly coveted commod-ity. However, once the wine hits your headand the food hits your lips, youll key into theArt Decoinspired surroundings and realisethat Paris isnt that far away after all.

TEN-ICHI Map p62 Tempura %3571-1949; 6-6-5 Ginza, Ch-ku; set coursesaround 5000;h11.30am-9.30pm;bGinza,Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exits A1, B3& B6); ESince 1930 tempura at the much esteemed

Ten-Ichi has rightfully earned its reputationas supernaturally light and nongreasy. Thedignified dining area at the flagship Ginzashop is a pleasure, though you can expect

to spend significant coin for the privilegeof dining here. Ten-Ichi is regarded as thecitys best tempura, which means youregoing to need a reservation if you want todine among those in the know.

KYBEI Map p62 Sushi & Sashimi %3571-6523; 8-7-6 Ginza, Ch-ku; sushi plates3000-5000;h11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat;bGinza Line to Shimbashi (exit 1)Established in 1936, the unbelievable qual-ity and flawless presentation of Kybeissushi and sashimi spreads is still reveredin restaurant-rich Ginza. If you request itbeforehand and reservations are highlyrecommended the owner will arrangefor your meal to be served on fine pot-tery thrown by Rosanjin Kitaoji (for moreinformation, see below). In a city reluctant toapply sushi superlatives, this spot is trulyconsidered by Tokyoites to be one of thebest.

BIRDLAND Map p62 Yakitori %5250-1081; 4-2-15 Ginza, Ch-ku; set courses3000-5000;hTue-Sat 5.30-9pm;bGinza,Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exits A1, B3& B6); ECommanding legions ofyakitori-loving

followers, Birdland is something of a des-tination for anyone in need of some seri-ously gourmet grilled chicken. Althoughyakitori comes in all shapes, sizes, coloursand organs, you wont have a difficult timeordering here simply choose from one ofseveral set courses and experience first-hand how many different ways there are tocook up a bird.

NAIRS Map p62 Indian %3541-8246; 4-10-7 Ginza, Ch-ku; set courses2000-3000;h11am-8.30pm;bHibiya or Toei

Asakusa Line to Higashi-Ginza (exit A2); ELike Japans foremost living novelist, Mu-rakami Haruki, Nairs was born in 1949,signalling a shift in tone in postwar Tokyo.

Though curry restaurants are now a dime a

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dozen, this was one of the first to introducenaan and cardamom to Tokyo. Since qual-ity midrange fare is a rare find in Ginza,this neighbourhood landmark tends to beextremely busy, though the crowds blendwith the Bollywood music to create a fes-tive atmosphere.

NATARAJ Map p62 Vegetarian %5537-1515; 7th-9th fl, 6-9-4 Ginza, Ch-ku;dishes around 2000;h11.30am-11pm;bGinza,Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza (exit A2)Herbivores dont have it easy in Tokyo,though thankfully there is reason to rejoiceat this Indian-influenced vegetarian spot.Nataraj brings its warm colours, low-keyelegance and animal-friendly cuisine to thisenormous three-storey branch store in theheart of Ginza. Sizable set meals include ap-pealing choices such as pumpkin curry andchickpea pakora, which go down well withan extensive wine and beer list of domesticand international favourites.

MIRAVILE IMPAKTMap p62 Caf

%5524-0417; 2-2-14 Ginza, Ch-ku, Marronier-dori, Gate 10F; desserts from 1500;h11am-10pm;bJR Yamanote Line to Yrakuch (westexit); EIts hard to know whats more striking at

this trendy caf the chic modern interiorof bold colours and angular furniture, orthe fact that everything on the menu here

will overload your sweet tooth. Specialis-ing in just dessert, Miravile Impakt servesup an elegant three-course meal that isrounded out by designer teas and special-ity coffees.

SAKATA Map p62 Soba & Udon %3563-7400; 2nd fl, 1-5-13 Ginza, Ch-ku;noodles from 500;h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pmMon-Fri, 11.30am-2pm Sat;bYrakuch Line toGinza-itchmeIf you eat only one meal out, youd do wellto eat it here. Sakata is widely recognisedas one of the citys most classic noodlespots, and the sanuki udon (a thick, silkynoodle of exceptional firmness) here isdivine. Gracious Sakata-san doesnt speakEnglish but will go out of his way to feedyou if you look confused. Look for the 2nd-floor sign.

YRAKUCH YAKITORI ALLEYMap p62 Yakitori

Skewers from 100;bChiyoda or Hibiya Line toHibiya (exit 1)Follow the smoke and steam thats loop-ing its way up from under the railwaytracks to this warren of rickety outdooryakitori stands. Each open-air corner istended by its own chef who knows ev-erything youd ever need to about the fine

art of grilling chicken. These stands offerlittle shelter from the elements, so dressaccordingly.

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THE WORK OF ROSANJIN KITAOJIRosanjin Kitaoji (18831959), a revered calligrapher and sculptor, is famous for despising ugly things and the peoplethat created and condoned them. Through his professional career, he quite rancorously attacked any form of sloppinessor mediocrity that dared call itself art.

Not surprisingly, Rosanjin was also a gourmand who was drawn to food in all its forms. As with art, in food he soughtthe ideal, the beautiful and the perfect. This in turn greatly influenced his pottery, which often seems to be a kind ofmeditation on the perfect container for the perfect dish.

If youre interested in experiencing Rosanjins pottery first hand, you can do so by calling ahead to Kybei(above)where the attention to detailed arrangement is a fitting tribute to pottery whose form so closely follows beauty.

TRAVEL YOUR TASTE BUDSSome Japanese seem to take perverse pleasure in challenging foreign visitors to try uniquely Japanese foods. Heres arogues gallery you may encounter:

Basashi () Raw horsemeat served sashimi style. Although the taste is surprisingly similar to beef, keep inmind that youre not eating cow.

Fugu () Globefish, aka puffer fish or blowfish. Regardless of what you call it, its still deadly. For more informa-tion, see p154.

Kujira () Whale meat. Need we say more?

Natt () Fermented soya beans that are firm in the centre and malodorous outside. When you pick one soya

bean up with your chopsticks, it usually leaves gooey strings behind it. Probably the most vilified food amongresident expats.

Shiokara () Squid intestines that are pickled until theyre pink. Verrry salty. Served as a side dish or as anaccompaniment to beer (you should be very drunk before trying this).

Shirako () Literally white children in Japanese, shirako is a term for the sperm-filled reproductive gland of thecod fish. Although its considered a delicacy, it tastes exactly like youd think it would.

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TSUKIJI & SHIODOMERight on the waterfront of Tokyo Bay, theTsukiji neighbourhood encircles the busiestfish market on earth. It is here that any hard-working, tough-talking fisherman will beproud to tell you that youll find the best sushibreakfast in Japan and the freshest sashimiin the world. Enjoy it now while you can, asthe ageing market will uproot for bigger digsacross Tokyo Bay by 2015.

DAIWA SUSHI Map p65 Sushi & Sashimi %3547-6807; Bldg 6, 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Ch-ku; sushispread 1500-3000;h5pm-1.30am Mon-Sat,closed 2nd Wed of the month;bToei edo Line toTsukijishij (exit A2)Lines are pretty much unavoidable at

Tsukijis best and most famous sushi bar,but once youre past the noren (curtains)and your first piece of sushi hits the coun-ter, gratification is inevitable. Unless yourecomfortable ordering in Japanese, thechefs sushi sets are a good bet, which caneasily be ordered by simply pointing at thepicture menu. Though the staff may be toopolite to say so, youre expected to eat andrun so others can partake in this quintes-sential Tsukiji experience.

EDOGIN Map p65 Sushi & Sashimi %3543-4401; 4-5-1 Tsukiji, Ch-ku; sushi spread1000-3000;h11am-9.30pm Mon-Sat;bToeiedo Line to Tsukijishij (exit A2)Fat pieces of superfresh sashimi and sushidraw the crowds at this little hole-in-the-wall spot just up the way from TsukijiCentral Fish Market. The teishoku (;lunchtime set) is a steal at 1000, especiallysince the fish literally comes from up thestreet. Though theres nothing in the wayof atmosphere, the locals who come hereto eat provide the colour you need.

SAKANA-YA AJISEN Map pp489 Traditional %3534-8483; 1-18-10 Tsukishima, Minato-ku;plates 1000-1500;h5.30-10.30pm;bYuri-kamome Line to Tsukishima (main exit)Although this neighbourhood sake pub ishidden away from the tourist masses on the

island of Tsukishima, its the real deal, andworth seeking out if you want to sample realbrews and indulge on traditional dishes. The

lack of an English menu means youll haveto work hard here if you dont speak Japa-nese, though its worth the effort to samplerare koshu (aged sakes) and the house speci-ality, anago (braised seawater eel).

YAPPARI TAKO Map p65 Izakaya %6215-8800; 1st basement fl, Shiodome CityCenter, Higashi-Shimbashi 1-5-2; plates around1000;h11am-2pm & 5-11pm;bJR Yamanote

Line to Shiodome (exit 2D)Although Yappari Tako serves up the fullcomplement of your standard izakayaofferings, the real reason youre here is tosample its speciality tako (; octopus)dishes. If youre having hesitations aboutsucking down a few plates of tentacled tit-bits, the attentive staff will offer you a glassof the shch of the day in order to easeyour inhibitions and relax your throat.

DIN TAI FUNG Map p65 Dim Sum %5537-2081; 2nd basement fl, Higashi-Shim-

bashi 1-8-2, Caretta Shiodome; plates 300-500;h11am-9.30pm;bJR Yamanote Line t o Shio-dome (exit A2)

This Taiwanese-style dim sum is the perfectchoice for anyone who likes to try a littlebit of everything. Whether youre partialto traditional steamed dumplings and richcustard creams or more adventurous dishessuch as chicken feet and fried rice flourballs, we guarantee youll eat your fill here.

Theres no English menu, but this being dimsum, just inspect the carts as they whiskby your table and simply grab what looksgood.

AKIHABARA & KANDAKanda has a large concentration of long-standing traditional eateries, some specialis-ing in dishes as simple as soba, others servingprewar favourites on traditional tatami. In starkcontrast, Akihabara is home to cheap chainrestaurants, few of which really stand out.

BOTAN Map p68 Traditional %3251-0577; 1-15 Kanda-Sudach, Chiyoda-ku;set courses around 5000;h11.30am-8.30pm

Mon-Sat;bMarunouchi Line to Awajich (exits A3& A5) or Toei Shinjuku Line to Ogawamachi (exitsA3 & A5)

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Botan has been making a single, perfectdish in the same button-makers housesince before the turn of the last century. Sitcross-legged on bamboo mats as chickennabe (; meat cooked in broth in an ironpan with vegetables) simmers over a char-coal brazier, allowing you to take in thescent of prewar Tokyo.

ISEGEN Map p68 Traditional %

3251-1229; 1-11-1 Kanda-Sudach

, Chiyoda-ku;set courses around 5000;h11.30am-2pm & 4-9pm Mon-Sat, closed Sat Jun-Aug;bMarunouchiLine to Awajich (exits A3 & A5) or Toei ShinjukuLine to Ogawamachi (exits A3 & A5)From early autumn to midspring, this oldEdo-style restaurant dishes up monkfishstew in a splendid communal tatami room.

The rest of the year, when monkfish is outof season, expect the same traditional sur-roundings and a menu offering fresh riverfish. Although there is no English menu,the communal surroundings mean that itshouldnt be too hard to point out whatyou want to eat.

MARUGO TONKATSU Map p68 Tonkatsu %3255-6595; 1-8-14 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku;plates 2000-3000;h11.30am-3pm & 5-9pmFri-Wed, closed every 3rd Wed;bJR Yamanote orJR Sbu Line to Akihabara (Denki-gai exit)In Akihabaras megawatt circus, Marugo sitsserenely unplugged in one of the few pre-war houses remaining in the area. Althoughthe serene interior full of nostalgic diners isnothing like the otaku (geek) parade thatsoutside, Marugo survives by offerings some

seriously delicious tonkatsu atop piles offresh shredded cabbage.

KANDA YABU SOBA Map p68 Soba %3251-0287; 2-10 Kanda-Awajich, Chiyoda-ku;noodles from 500;h11.30am-8pm;bMaru-nouchi Line to Awajich (exits A3 & A5) or ToeiShinjuku Line to Ogawamachi (exits A3 & A5); EA wooden wall and a small garden enclosethis venerable buckwheat noodle shop.When you walk in, the staff singing outthe orders will be one of the first signsthat youve arrived in a singular, ageless

place. Raised tatami platforms and a darklywooded dining room set the stage forshow-stopping soba.

@HOME CAF Map p68@%5294-7704; www.cafe-athome.com; 7F MitsuwaBldg, 1-11-4 Soto-kanda, Chiyoda-ku;h11:30am-9pm;bSbu Line to Akihabara (Electric Townexit)Wanna walk on the wild side of Tokyos fet-ish for kawaii(cuteness)? Try being servedcoffee by girls dressed as French maids!Youll be welcomed as go-shujinsama(master) the minute you barge into thiscaf. The anime-esque staff, decked out inVictorian pinafores, is drowning in kawaii;titillating, perhaps, but its no sex joint.Maid cafs are where Akihabaras otaku gettheir kicks. Dishes such as curried rice areeven topped with smiley faces. Seconds,anyone?

UENOHolding on to its Shitamachi (Low Town)style and atmosphere, Uenos culinary land-scape pales in comparison to the bigger play-ers inside the Yamanote (High Town). Ofcourse, after a long day of meandering thehalls of Ueno-kens many museums, youmay want to stick around for dinner. Whilethe local restaurants arent doing anythingcutting-edge, they are satisfyingly down-to-earth and modestly priced.

SASA-NO-YUKI Map p72 Traditional %3873-1145; 2-15-10 Negishi, Tait-ku; setcourses 2000-4000;h11am-9pm Tue-Sun;bJRYamanote Line to Uguisudani (north exit)Sasa-no-Yuki opened its doors in the thriv-ing Edo period, and continues to serve tofu

in elegant arrangements and traditionalsurroundings. Set meals allow you tosample a broad range of tofu delicacies,the majority of which are as inventive asthey are delicious. Strict vegetarians shouldnote that many dishes include chicken andfish stock, if not the meat itself. If you dontread Japanese, you can select from the setcourses based on price.

HANTEI Map p72 Traditional %3828-1440; 2-12-15 Nezu, Bunky-ku; setcourses 2000-3000;hnoon-2.30pm & 5-10pm

Tue-Sun;bChiyoda Line to Sendagi (south exit)Skewers ofkushiage (fried meat, fish andvegetables) arrive at your table six at a

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time, counterbalanced with small, refresh-ing side dishes. Though courses are prede-termined, and well worth the wait, youllhave to decide when youve had enough(or theyll keep coming) and whether todrink sake or beer. The backdrop is a lovelywood-and-bamboo Meiji-era house, whichemphasises the Shitamachi charm of therestaurant.

IZU-EI Map p72 Unagi %3831-0954; 2-12-22 Ueno, Tait-ku; set courses1500-3000;h11am-2pm & 5-11pm;bJRYamanote Line to Ueno (Hirok-ji exit)Izu-ei specialises in unagi(eel), which youcan take in two ways: in a bent (lunchbox) that includes tempura and pickledvegetables, or charcoal-grilled, sauced andlaid on a bed of steamed rice, as unagipurists might insist. Try to get seated nearan upstairs window for the best views ofthe large lily pads of nearby Shinobazu-ike.Although there is no English menu, thereis a picture menu of sliced up eels to helpyou choose.

FUTABA Map p72 Tonkatsu %3835-2672; 2-8-11 Ueno, Tait-ku; platesaround 2000;h11am-9pm;bJR YamanoteLine to Ueno (Hirok-ji exit)Like so many homestyle eateries, this placedoesnt look like much, in its nondescriptcorner building, but who needs charmwhen you make the best tonkatsu on theblock? Its a bit like a diner with matter-of-fact service, but it knows its stuff andneeds no gimmicks beyond the edges ofthe plate.

CHALET SWISS MINI Map p72 Swiss %3822-6034; 3-3-12 Nishi-Nippori, Arakawa-ku;plates 1000-1500;h10am-6.30pm Tue & Wed,10am-9pm Thu-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun;bNishi-nippori (south exit); ESomehow this odd little school and cafworks. Nestled among the temples andshrines on a hill in Shitamachi, which wasspared of the bombing during the war, itlooks just like a Swiss chalet on a Holly-wood movie set. It serves, not surprisingly,

very good fondue, pastries and sandwiches,often to children who are just being let outof class upstairs.

ASAKUSADespite the fact that Sens-ji (AsakusaKannon-d) is Tokyos most-frequentedtourist attraction, the neighbourhood itselfretains its own working-class, laugh-out-loudcharacter. Delightfully, almost none of therestaurants cater to tourists, and so, here youare, just another person in the neighbourhoodto be fed and then sent gently on your way.

ASAKUSA IMAHANMap p86 Shabu-Shabu

%3841-1114; 3-1-12 Nishi-Asakusa, Tait-ku;set courses 5000-7000;h11.30am-9.30pm;bGinza Line to Tawaramachi (exit 3); EIts fitting that the original branch ofImahan, the citys most famous chain ofshabu-shabu restaurants, is located at theheart of Shitamachi. While sitting at lowtables on the tatami mats, you can gethappy on sake while letting your meatand seasonal vegetables simmer away.Although its certainly an expensive affair,a meal at Imahan is the most dignified

way to enjoy this much-revered Japaneseculinary treat.

KOMAGATA DOJMap p86 Traditional %3842-4001; 1-7-12 Komagata, Tait-ku; setcourses 5000-7000;h11am-9pm;bGinza orToei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exits A2 & 4)

The sixth-generation chef running thismarvellous restaurant is continuing thetradition of transforming the humble riverfish called the doj (something like an eel)into various incarnations: grilled to miso-simmered to stewed. The open seatingaround wide, wooden planks heightens thetraditional flavour.

SOMETAROMap p86 Okonomiyaki

%3844-9502; 2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Tait-ku;mains 750-1500;hnoon-10pm;bGinza Line toTawaramachi (exit 3); ESometaro is a fun and funky place to tryokonomiyaki, which are Japanese-style pan-cakes filled with meat, seafood and vegeta-bles that you cook yourself. Its a friendly

spot where the English menu even includesa how-to guide for even the most culinarychallenged of restaurant goers.

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DAIKOKUYA Map p86 Tempura %3844-1111; 1-38-10 Asakusa, Tait-ku; platesfrom 750;h11.30am-8.30pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-9pm Sat;bGinza or Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa(exit 6); E

The long line around the building shouldtell you something about this much-lovedtempura place before you catch the unmis-takable fragrance of it. Sneak off to the otherbranch around the corner if the line seemsto put too much distance between you andyour ebi tendon (shrimp tempura over rice).

NAMIKI YABU SOBAMap p86 Soba

%3841-1340; 2-11-9 Kaminarimon, Tait-ku; noo-dles from 500;h11am-10pm Fri-Wed;bGinzaor Toei Asakusa Line to Asakusa (exit A4); EAnother member of the Yabu Soba family(see p161 for information on their sister storein Kanda) that has withstood the encroach-ment of high-rises, this little brown housecontinues to thrive as it has for almost 100years. It specialises in tempura soba, whichis still served at communal tables allowingfor a boisterous dining experience.

AKASAKAThis is where both fiscal and governmen-tal business gets done. Good portions of itempty at night as limousines take officialsand luminaries elsewhere for secret suppersbehind thick doors. But since low-key, non-power lunches need to happen and moversand shakers often work late, Akasaka has a fewreal finds in comfortable quarters.

RAKUTEIMap p92 Tempura

%3585-3743; 6-8-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku; setcourses 3500-6000;h6-10pm;bChiyoda Lineto Akasaka (exit 5)If the Japanese have elevated the deep-fried to an art form, then the chefs atRakutei create masterpieces nightly. Thefreshest seafood and the lightest tempurabatter are prepared to order, resulting intender prawn and sweet potato that actu-ally does melt in your mouth. Although

there isnt an English menu, you can eas-ily choose a set meal depending on howmuch yen youre willing to part with.

DAIDAIYA Map p92 Asian Fusion %3588-5087; 9th fl, Belle Vie, 3-1-6 Akasaka,Minato-ku; plates around 2000;h11.30am-2pm& 5pm-midnight;bGinza & Marunouchi Lines toAkasaka-mitsuke (exit 2); EAlthough Asian fusion is all the rage out-side Japan, its still catching on in Tokyo.Of course, its hard not to fall in love withthis culinary mish-mash, especially onceyouve realised the benefits of eating rich

Thai curries alongside innovative sushi rollsand savoury Chinese dumplings. Althoughthe food at Daidaiya is always creative anddaring, it pales in comparison to the restau-rants eye-arresting ultramodern interior.

ASTERIX Map p92 French %5561-0980; B1 fl, 6-3-16 Akasaka, Minato-ku;set courses 2000-3000;h11am-2pm & 5-10pmMon-Sat;bChiyoda Line to Akasaka (exit 7)Lunch at Asterix is a smashing deal, butdinner has its own merits not as rushed,so you can linger over your wine while youmull the meal that is pleasantly dullingyour senses just so. Portions here are large,but the dining room is petite, so reserva-tions are advised. The menu is in Frenchbut not English, which may or may notmake things easier on you.

DELHI Map p92 Indian %3560-5188; 2-14-34 Akasaka, Minato-ku; curriesaround 1000;h11.30am-9.30pm;bChiyodaLine to Akasaka (exit 2)

Tropical cultures tout the numerous bene-fits of eating spicy foods; among them, the

flushing of toxins when one begins perspir-ing with the endorphin rush (or pain, asthe case may be). For those who like it hot,Delhi serves a fiery Kashmir curry. Patronswith milder tastes will find equally deliciousoptions on the menu.

LOTUS PALACE Map p92 Vietnamese %5114-0747; 2-14-1 Akasaka, Minato-ku; noodlesfrom 750;h11am-11pm;bGinza & Maru-nouchi Lines to Akasaka-mitsuke; ELunch and dinner are an absolute steal atthis foreigner-friendly Vietnamese noodle

shop, which serves up set-course mealsthat are centred on huge bowls ofpho(rice-noodle soup) and rounded out by

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shrimp spring rolls and mung-bean pud-ding. If you need to put an extra spring inyour step, the syrupy Vietnamese coffeewith condensed milk will get you whereyou want to be.

ROPPONGIAt any given hour, the population of Roppongiprobably maintains the highest saturation ofethnic diversity (and perhaps also the highestsaturation, drinkwise) in Tokyo. Long the dis-trict favoured by randy foreigners on R&R andTokyo party people, its also adjacent to nearbyembassies and upmarket hotels. So while someRoppongi restaurants serve indifferent suste-nance to those merely fuelling up for a longnight, some of Tokyos more refined culinaryexperiences exist amid the madness.

CHINA ROOMMap pp967 Chinese

%4333-8785; 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku; setcourses from 6000;h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-10pm;bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi(exit 1c & 3); ELocated inside the world-famous GrandHyatt Tokyo at Roppongi Hills, the ChinaRoom offers the most lavish and refinedChinese cuisine in the capital. From per-fectly roasted Peking duck and fragrantshark-fin soup to rare oolong teas andhandcrafted dumplings, the China Roomis a feast for the senses that never fails todisappoint. In addition to widely knownculinary classics, the China Room also offers

rare Japanese seafood delicacies such asNiigata snow crab and Hokkaiduni(seaurchin roe).

FUKUZUSHI Map pp967 Sushi & Sashimi %3402-4116; 5-7-8 Roppongi, Minato-ku; sushispreads from 5000;h11am-2pm & 5-10pmMon-Sat;bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi(exit 3)Arguably some of Tokyos best sushi isserved at Fukuzushis lovely wooden coun-ter, where the chefs can satisfy your palatewith conventional favourites, but could justas easily piece together something moreinnovative if you wish. Reservations arenttaken at this popular spot, so plan on a fewminutes wait, though its a small incon-venience to dine on what will probably bethe best sushi dinner of your life. There areno English menus, though you can alwayspoint at whatever sliver of fish takes yourfancy if money is no object, then this isthe place to go big.

INAKAYA Map pp967 Traditional %

3408-5040; 5-3-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku; dishesaround 2000;h5pm-5am;bHibiya or Toeiedo Lines to Roppongi (exit 3)Once youre bombarded with greetings atthe door, the action doesnt stop at thisold-guard robatayaki (a place that grillsfood that goes beautifully with booze). Itsa party, its joyous, its boisterous and thatgoes for the profusion of toothsome dishesas well as the attitude one must have whenthe bill arrives. Live large!

VINOTECA Map pp967 Italian

%5647-8301; Tokyo Midtown, Minato-ku;dishes around 2000;h11am-3pm & 5pm-late;bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 8); E

EATINGROPPONGI

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Quite possibly one of the hottest restau-rants in the city at the time of writing, thisinevitable crowd pleaser offers open-airdining overlooking the gardens of TokyoMidtown. As these tables are some of themost in-demand seats in the capital, youwould be wise to book in advance (in factits necessary) to ensure that you dont letdown your better half. Although true Italianconnoisseurs may find fault in the slightJapan-isation of the menu, the food here isnevertheless spectacular, and the alfresco

dining is arguably the citys best.

HAWKER STYLE ASIAN CANTEENMap pp967 Singaporean

%5474-3200; 6-11-16 Roppongi, Minato-ku;plates around 1000;h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm;bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exits 1C& 3); EOwned by a Japanese man who fell in lovewith chicken rice, the national dish ofSingapore, Hawker Style Asian Canteen isa small slice of Southeast Asia in the heartof Roppongi. If youve never eaten chickenrice before, the dish is basically chicken andrice (no surprise there), though the accom-panying sauces and broth (for cleansingthe palette) can make this a truly sublimeculinary experience.

MOTI Map pp967 Indian %3479-1939; 6-2-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku; platesaround 1000;h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm;bHibiya or Toei edo Line to Roppongi (exits 1C & 3)

Loved by local expats, Moti maintains aloyal base of foodies who come for the setlunches and well-seasoned curries. Settleinto one of the comfortable booths andwatch as first one embassy staffer and thenanother comes and goes. Moti can fill tothe rafters around noon.

YAKINIKU TORAJI INTERNATIONALMap pp967 Yakiniku

%5786-2888; Roppongi Hills, Roppongi 6-chme;plates 750-1000;h11am-11pm;bHibiya orToei edo Line to Roppongi (exit 1C); EAlthough it originates from the humbleKorean dish known as bulgogi,yakiniku(grilled meat) at this Roppongi Hills estab-lishment is anything but ordinary. Choosefrom a variety of immaculate cuts of meat,and then slow roast them over charcoals.Next, dip your perfectly cooked slices ofmeat in a variety of sauces before poppingthem into your mouth delicious!

EBISU & DAIKANYAMAEbisu and Daikanyama, though not on mostshort-term visitors radar, are home to agrown-up creative community of 30- and 40-something designers, artists and architects. Assuch, the neighbourhoods are full of independ-ent boutiques and European-style cafs, andthe areas sophisticated aesthetics and flavoursreflect a hip and worldly population.

MUSHROOM Map p102 French %5489-1346; 2nd fl, 1-16-3 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku; set courses from 3000;h11.30am-3pm &

6-11pm;bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (west exit)Chef Yamaokas obsession with the taming ofthe shroom has sprouted this very cosy littleFrench bistro, whose dcor is dominated bya mushroom motif, of course. Three-courseset lunches are amazing value and willtransport you elsewhere without the mind-altering side effects of course. Japanese skillswill help in making a reservation, and Frenchskills will help in interpreting the menu.

RICOS KITCHENMap p102 International

%5791-4649; 2nd fl, 4-23-7 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku;plates around 2000;h11.30am-3pm & 6-11pm;bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu (east exit)

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BEAM ME TO THE KONBINIKonbini (;convenience stores) are a way of life for many Tokyoites, and even if you had never set footin one at home you may find yourself visiting them daily here. Indeed, there seems to be a Sunkus, AM-PM, Lawson,7-Eleven or Family Mart on just about every corner. Heres the difference: Japanese convenience-store food tends to beboth fresh and of decent quality, and whether youre going home after a late night or heading out on a hike, its hardto do better. Some of our favourite konbinifoods:

Inari-sushi () Sushi rice in a tofu pouch. If you find it a little sweet, cut it with soy sauce.

Niku-man () Steamed buns filled with pork, pizza flavourings, curry sauce and more.

Oden () Fish cakes, hard-boiled egg, vegetables and more, stewing in a dashi(fish-stock) broth. Enjoy with

hot mustard. Its not winter without it.Onigiri () King of them all. A triangle of rice with a dollop of some treasure inside (salmon, tuna salad,marinated kelp etc), wrapped in a plastic sheath together with a sheet of nori(seaweed).

THE GENTLE ART OF JAPANESECOOKINGThink youve got what it takes to fry up some meantempura? The following two schools will help getyou started:

Konishi Japanese Cooking Class (Map p102;

%3714-8859; www.seiko-osp.com/private/sekigu/kjcc/index.htm; 1405 Nissei Meguro-Mansion; 3-1-7Meguro, Meguro-ku;bNamboku or Mita Line toMeguro, west exit, or JR Yamanote Line to Meguro,main exit) Friendly English instruction with smallclass sizes.

A Taste of Culture (%5716-5751; http://tasteof

culture.com) Offers Japanese cooking courses andmarket tours in various locations around the city.

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From light and fruity California wines to juicyNew Zealand rack of lamb, this internationalbistro brings together the best flavours fromaround the globe to create some truly inno-vative meals. With vaulted wooden ceilingsand hand-brushed walls, the setting at RicosKitchen is personal and relaxed, which makesthis the perfect spot for slowing down andenjoying the art of fine cuisine.

ZEST CANTINA EBISUMap p102 Mexican

%5475-6291; 1-22-19 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; plates1500-2000;h11.30am-3.30am Mon-Sat;bJRYamanote Line to E bisu (east exit); EYoud be forgiven for thinking you wereeating Tex-Mex somewhere in Americaafter walking into this cavernous Ebisuinstitution. Although the jumbo margaritas,enormous bowls of nachos and sizzling hotplates of fajitas are reason enough to stop

by, theres something endearing aboutJapanese waiting staff in cowboy bootsand hats.

TOKI-NO-MA Map p102 Izakaya %5722-8600; 2nd fl, 2-3-14 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku;plates around 1500;h4.30pm-late;bJRYamanote Line to E bisu (west exit)True to the Ebisu spirit, this izakaya isa class act. For your drinking pleasure,the attentive staff can recommend anynumber of limited-edition sakes, whichchange constantly depending on theseason. For your eating pleasure, the at-tentive staff can recommend any numberof unique dishes including satusma-ryouri(Kysh-style cuisine), wild game birdsand a full assortment of seafood delica-cies. Although there is no English menu,set courses are available if you cant speakJapanese.

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MONSOON Map p102 Asian Fusion %5789-3811; www.global-dining.com; 4-4-6Ebisu, Shibuya-ku; plates 1000-1500;h11.30am-3.30am Mon-Sat;bJR Yamanote Line to Ebisu(east exit); EMonsoon serves up a variety of pan-Asiancuisine from peanut satays to steamedshrimp dumplings in an evocative tropi-cal caf setting. Alfresco seating and fruitycocktails help stave off the oppressionof Tokyos notoriously muggy summers,

while tropical lagers and spicy curries willhelp you escape the depression of Tokyosnotoriously grey winters.

CAFF MICHELANGELOMap p102 Caf

%3770-9517; 29-3 Sakuragaokach, Shibuya-ku;plates 500-1000;h11am-11pm;bJR YamanoteLine to Ebisu (west exit); EStylish Daikanyama is exactly the locale thisParisian-style caf is meant to occupy. Thesmart set comes here to be seen, but youcould just as easily blend into the back-ground. Pavement seating makes it a finesummertime lunch stop, with lovely reason-ably priced lunch sets to enjoy with wine.

CAF ARTIFAGOSE Map p102 Caf %5489-1133; 20-23 Daikanyama, Shibuya-ku;plates 500-1000;h11am-11pm;bJR YamanoteLine to Ebisu (west exit); EFollow your nose towards the yeasty scentof baking bread, and youll wind up at CafArtifagose where strong coffee and finecheese and bread are your reward. If the

neighbourhood shops tempt you morethan a leisurely lunch does, pick up a pastryfor later.

SHIBUYAAfter seeing the teenagers cruising Shibuyacrossing and clusters of young fashionistasawaiting their cohorts at Hachik Plaza, yourattention span might only allow you a quickbite at a greasy spoon near the station beforedarting back into the melee. But for thosenights when you need a bigger gastronomicthrill, stray outwards onto the streets spok-

ing away from Shibuya Station and discoverthe neighbourhoods more sophisticateddelights.

COUCAGNO Map p106 French %3476-3000; 40th fl, Cerulean Tower, 26-1Sakuragaokach, Shibuya-ku; set courses from6000;h11.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pm;bJRYamanote Line to S hibuya (Hachik exit); EFew restaurants in Tokyo can claim morestunning views than the highly praisedCoucagno, which occupies the 40th floor ofthe Cerulean Tower, one of the most dra-matic buildings in both Shibuya and Tokyo.From such lofty heights, the Shibuya street

scene looks as if its populated by tiny ants,though attention quickly shifts to the foodonce the chef gets going. As youd expect,everything from the delicate sauces driz-zled across your roast duck to the perfectcrust atop your crme brle is indeed aclass act.

KUJIRAYA Map p106 Traditional %3461-9145; 2-29-22 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; setcourses from 5000;h11am-10pm;bJR Yaman-ote Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit)Well leave it to you and your dinnercompanions to debate the ethics of thissurprisingly popular restaurant, whichserves nothing but whale meat. Conserva-tion, environmentalism and morality aside,there are few places in the world whereyou can sample whale sashimi, fried blub-ber and fin steaks, though youre going tohave to leave your politics at the door. Al-though there is no English menu, you canorder set menus based on price whalemeat isnt cheap, which is probably to dowith the fact that theyre endangered.

MAYU (COCOON)Map p106 Wine Bar

%5453-0301; 40-3 Kamiyamach, Shibuya-ku;plates around 2000;h6pm-late;bJR Yaman-ote Line to Shibuya (Hachik exit); EArguably the strangest restaurant youveever seen, the ultrachic interior of thistrendy spot is highlighted by several fi-breglass cocoons, each of which can seatup to four people. Although the cuisine isinternational with a strong European influ-ence, the focus here is on the wine, withdishes chosen by the chef to highlight theselected bottles of the day. It can certainlyget pricey to sample a few different bottlesand dishes, but sipping wine and diningon homemade pasta in the comfort of your

EATINGSHIBUYA

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SELF-CATERINGEven if youre here with money to burn, a visit to an everyday market or to the food halls in the more elegant departmentstore basements (see p171) is well worth the time. Traditional family-owned shops are dotted around the city, and mostsell seasonal produce (such as summer melons, autumn persimmons and winter strawberries) and daily basics such asfish, seaweed and rice. International supermarkets cater to Western palates. Although they charge import prices, fussyresident expats would starve without them. Kinokuniya International Supermarket (Map p110;%3409-1236; 3-11-7 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku;

h9.30am-8pm;bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-sand, exit B2) Kinokuniya carries expatlifesavers such as Marmite and peanut butter, Belgian chocolate and herbal tea. Foreign imports such ascheese, salami and Finnish bread generally fetch high prices, much like the flawless fruit in the produce sec-tion. An interim store at 3.11.13 Minami-Aoyama (p110) is located just further south along Aoyama-dri.

Meidi-ya (Map pp967;%3401-8511; 7-15-14 Roppongi, Minato-ku;h10am-9pm;bHibiya Line toRoppongi, exit 2) Established in the 19th century, not too long after strangers in black ships started arriving onJapans shores, Meidi-ya specialises in higher-end groceries for foreign predilections. Its a midsized store with acorresponding selection of goods, so you should find ample fixings for a picnic. There are other locations through-

out the city. National Azabu (Map pp967;%3442-3181; 4-5-2 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku;h9.30am-7pm;bHibiya

Line to Hiro-o, exit 2) Based in Azabu, where a high concentration of expats also happen to base themselves,National Azabu carries an impressive array of expat staples such as imported cheeses, wines, Vegemite andnatural foods as well as hard-to-find produce. Also notable is the pharmacy with English-speaking staff and thesmall bookshop upstairs.

Natural House (Map p110;%3498-2277; 3-6-18 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku;h10am-10pm;bChiyoda,Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-sand, exit B4) Natural House serves the ecoconscious trendsters aroundAoyama, meeting a growing demand for whole foods and organic produce. Along with bricks of rye loavesand pricey but nutritious bent(boxed lunch), Natural House also peddles natural beauty products and healthsupplements.

Yamaya (Map p92;%3583-5657; 2-14-33 Akasaka, Minato-ku;h10am-9pm;bChiyoda Line to Akasaka,exit 2) Yamayas shelves are stuffed primarily with European wines, though theres also a representative selectionof American and Australian grape as well. Most branches are discount retailers and offer some imported packaged

foods in addition to wines and liquors.

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own cocoon is about as surreal a diningexperience as you can imagine.

SONOMA Map p106 Californian %3462-7766; 2-25-17 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku;plates 1500-2000;h6-11.30pm Sun-Thu, 6pm-4am Fri & Sat;bJR Yamanote Line to Shibuya(Hachik exit); EFavourites such as polenta fries and porkchops with sage, brown sugar and applesform the mainstay of this unpretentiouslyinspired and priced Californian fusionmenu. The interior resembles a Sonomawine country restaurant and the menu iscomplemented by a strong selection ofCalifornian wines.

EL CASTELLANO Map p106 Spanish %3407-7197; 2nd fl, 2-9-12 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku;plates 500-2000;h6-11pm Mon-Sat;bJRYamanote Line to S hibuya (east exit); EEl Castellanos success could be attributedto the warmth of its owner, who casts a

friendly eye over the evenings progressand affectionately greets his regulars withsunny Spanish hospitality. But that woulddiscount the definite draw of his homestylecooking, including a mean paella and thesangria that goes so well with it.

OKINAWA Map p106 Okinawan Izakaya %3464-2576; 1st basement fl, Shibuya Deli Tower,2-23-13 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; plates around1000;h5.30-11pm;bJR Yamanote Line toShibuya (Hachik exit); EIf youve never been to the far-flung tropi-

cal islands of Okinawa, then this specialityizakaya will have you racing to the travelagent. Start things off right with a coldOrion Beer or a potent glass ofawamori(Okinawan-style shch), and then jumpright into Okinawan staples such as mimiga(pig ears), suki-soba (Okinawan-style soba)and rafute (stewed pork with brown sugar).

SHIZENKAN II Map p106 Vegetarian %3486-0281; 3-9-2 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; plates500-1500;h11am-8pm Mon-Sat;bJR Yaman-ote Line to Shibuya (east exit); E

Strict vegans and vegetarians looking tosample Japanese favourites may find ittough in Tokyo, though Shizenkan II fills

the gap with gluten cutlets and substan-tial lunch sets of prettily arranged piles ofvegies. The food is flavourful and packsa nutritional wallop, and theres even ahealth food shop in the front part of therestaurant in case youre looking to stockthe fridge at home.

HARAJUKU & AOYAMALike the boutiques and galleries that flankOmote-sand, and the winding lanes that di-

verge from it, the cafs and eateries in this areaexperiment relentlessly and insist on findingnew directions. New takes on old standardsabound and Western fuses with Japanese aschefs strive to become inventors in order tomake a name. Surprisingly, all this innovationcan be had without sacrificing comfort andbeauty in the name of economy.

NOBU Map p110 Modern Japanese %5467-0022; 6-10-17 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku; set courses from 6000;h11.30am-3.30pm

& 5.30-10pm Mon-Fri, 6-11.30pm Sat & Sun;bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-sand (exit B1); EStemming from a childhood wish to be-come a sushi chef, Nobu Matsuhisa nowhas namesake restaurants in cities on fourcontinents. His 1993 foray into the NewYork scene was financed by Robert De Niro,with subsequent Nobu restaurants estab-lished in Milan, Paris, London, Melbourneand Tokyo. His stunning, cutting-edgeJapanese food doesnt come cheap, butthe experience of eating here is simplyphenomenal.

FONDA DE LA MADRUGADAMap p110 Mexican

%5410-6288; 2nd basement fl, 2-33-12 Jingmae,Shibuya-ku; plates around 2000;h5.30pm-2amSun-Thu, 5.30pm-5am Fri & Sat;bJR YamanoteLine to Harajuku (Takeshita exit); EMariachis stroll through the enclosedcourtyard in a basement hacienda! asyou tuck into chiles rellenos (stuffed chil-lies) or appraise the mole (savoury, spicychocolate sauce) drizzled over chicken orenchiladas. This is one of the few authen-

tic Mexican restaurants in Tokyo free ofgrim guacamole and unfortunate Tex-Mexflourishes.

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TETSUGEN NIKUSHO Map p110 Izakaya %5774-4533; 1-5-6 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku; plates1500-2000;h6pm-1am;bChiyoda, Ginza orHanzmon Line to Omote-sand (exit A2)

Theres no shortage of bizarre (at least to aWestern palate) delicacies on offer at Tet-sugen Nikusho, which offers refined rusticyet sophisticated ambience in the heart of

Tokyo. Depending on how brave (or drunk)youre feeling, you can sample a whole rangeof traditional Japanese meats including

rabbit, boar, deer, horse and frog as well asa whole bunch of sea critter parts that dontreally translate into English. Sadly, there isntan English menu on offer, though sometimesits better not to know what youre eating.

NATURAL HARMONY ANGOLOMap p110 Vegetarian

%3405-8393; 3-38-12 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku;plates 1500-2000;h11.30am-2.30pm & 6-9pmTue-Sun;bGinza Line to Gaienmae (exit 2)Downshift to the pace of Natural HarmonyAngolo, where the wholesome food is pureand so is the smoke-free air. The menu islargely vegetarian, augmented with somefish dishes; set meals featuring the deli-cately prepared vegetables du jourcomewith a choice of white or brown rice. Trysome cold, cloudy sake with your meal andmeditatively decompress.

HANNIBAL DEUX Map p110 North African %3479-3710; 3-53-3 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku;plates 1000-3000;h11.30am-2pm & 5.30pm-midnight;bJR Yamanote Line to Harajuku

(Takeshita exit); EEven if youve never been to Tunisia (or hadTunisian food for that matter), youll reco g-nise the fiery tajines and savoury couscousdishes on offer at this North African restau-rant. The chef and much of the staff do infact come from Tunisia, which is about allthe proof you need that the food here isabout as authentic as youll find in Japan.

MOMINOKI HOUSEMap p110 Japanese Health Food

%3405-9144; 2-18-5 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; plates

1000-2000;h11am-11pm;bJR Yamanote Lineto Harajuku (Takeshita exit); EBoho Tokyoites and personages such as

Paul McCartney and Stevie Wonder havedescended into Mominoki Houses multi-level, rabbit warren of a dining room since1976. Chef Yamadas menu consists mostlyof Japanese wholefoods, much of it veg-etarian but also including organically raisedAustralian perch and Hokkaid venison.Food here is lovingly prepared, and enrich-ing to both body and soul.

MAISEN Map p110 Tonkatsu %3470-0071; 4-8-5 Jingmae, Shibuya-ku; plates750-1000;h11am-10pm;bChiyoda, Ginza orHanzmon Line to Omote-sand (exit A2)Set in a converted public bathhouse, Maisenis rightfully famous for its tonkatsu choosefrom shrimp, pork or premium kurobuta(black pig). Theres also a takeaway windowfor picking up bent oftonkatsu accompa-nied by packets of Maisens savoury dippingsauce.

NABI Map p110 Yakiniku %

5771-0071; 2-31-20 Jing

mae, Shibuya-ku;plates 500-1000;h11am-2.30pm & 6-11.30pm;bChiyoda, Ginza or Hanzmon Line to Omote-sand (exit A2)Paying tribute to its progressive surround-ings, Nabi offers an organic spin on thetraditional Korean dish ofyakiniku. Whileyoure grilling your meat and veg at yourprivate tabletop barbecue, stop for a mo-ment to appreciate the fact that youre eat-ing healthily and making the environmenta cleaner place at the same time.

SHINJUKUAt the end of the work day, a few millionsturdy pairs of shoes carry Shinjukus work-force out of office doors towards the trainstations. To avoid the worst of rush hour,most stop along the way foryakitori or rmenor a more convivial sit-down affair with col-leagues. Once inside most eateries on the eastside of the station, the pace slows and the lightshow outside disappears. On the west side,restaurants within the towers of the luxuryhotels are designed for the view-hungry.

NEW YORK GRILL Map p116 Continental

%5323-3458; 52nd fl, Park Hyatt Hotel, 3-7-1-2Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; set courses from

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6000;h11.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-10.30pm;bToei edo Line to Tochmae (exit A4); EYou may not be staying at the Park Hyatt,but dont let that stop you from ascend-ing to the 52nd floor to swoon over thestunning views of the city below. Splurgeon a romantic, sumptuous supper backlitby sparkling night-time lights and live

jazz. And yes, in c ase everything looks abit familiar, the adjacent New York Bar(p181)was in fact where Bill Murray drank glassupon glass of Suntory whiskey in Sofia

Coppolas Lost in Translation. Reservationsare advised, especially on weekends andfor brunch.

KUSHIYA MONOGATARIMap p116 Traditional

%5728-2494; 1st basement fl, Shibuya CineTower, 2-6-17 Dgenzaka, Shibuya-ku; set course2500;h4-10.30pm;bJR Yamanote Line toShibuya (Hachik exit)

The Tokyo branc h of this pop ular Osakachain specialises in kushiage, which aredeep-fried skewers of grilled meats, fishand vegetables. For the bargain price ofonly 2500, you have up to two hours tofry up at your tabletop as many skewersas youd like, though this is one of the fewJapanese foods where its probably best togo easy and consider your waistline.

DAIDAYA Map p116 Asian Fusion %5362-7173; 3rd fl, Shinjuku Nowa Bldg, 3-37-12 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; plates around 2000;h5pm-midnight;bJR Yamanote Line to Shin-juku (east exit); EUnabashedly cool with modern Balinese-style design accents from floor to ceiling,this ultrasophisticated Asian fusion restau-rant offers a nouvelle take on this alreadyinventive cuisine. Dishes such as Kyshu-style sausages with homemade wasabi-mayonnaise are individually crafted worksof art, and are presented in slow but steadystages to allow for the maximum amountof appreciation.

IMAHAN Map p116 Traditional %5361-1871; 14th fl, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-

ku; plates around 1500;h11am-11pm;bJRYamanote Line to S hinjuku (new south exit); EUpstairs from the huge Takashimaya Times

Square branch of Tky Hands depart-ment store, Imahan is all about beef. Apartfrom the house specialities of sukiyaki andshabu-shabu, Imahan serves such delicaciesas fugu, marbled beef sashimi and scaled-down kaisekidinners. Come with comrades,as this cookery is meant to be shared formaximum merriment.

DADA CAF Map p116 Caf %3350-2245; 5-23-10 Sendagaya, Shinjuku-ku;plates around 1000;h11.30am-11pm;bJRYamanote to Yoyogi (east exit)This re tro c af, which is hou sed in a70-year-old tenement building straightout of the Shwa era, is a charming spotto reminisce about a Tokyo most of ushave never known. While taking tea andnoshing on immaculate spreads of hon-est Japanese cooking, take a momentto reflect on the Zenlike beauty of yoursurroundings.

PARK HYATT DELICATESSENMap p116 Deli

%5323-3635; 1st fl, Park Hyatt Hotel, 3-7-1-2Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; sandwiches around1000;h8am-8pm;bToei edo Line toTochmae (exit A4); EStop by the Park Hyatt Hotel for what isundoubtedly Tokyos top spot for NewYork style sandwiches, which will makeeven the most hardened New Yorker sobfor home. Everything from the sesame-seedcoated crusty loaves of bread to theprotein-packed slabs of cured Parma hamis either homemade on-site or importeddirect from the source, which is why every-thing here just tastes so damn good.

CHRISTON CAF Map p116 Izakaya %5287-2426; 8th fl, 5-17-13 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; plates 500-1000;h5-11pm Mon, 5pm-5amTue-Sat;bMarunouchi Line to Shinjuku-sanchme(exit B5)Irreverent in the most orthodox sense ofthe word, this cathedral-like izakaya fetish-ises the Catholic aesthetic and turns thisdining experience into something yourinner goth will love. Reservations are defi-

nitely required here to feast on small platesto share with your brethren under giganticaltars and doleful images of the piet.

EATIN

GSHINJUKU

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KINKANTEI Map p116 Soba %3356-6556; 2-17-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku;noodles from 500;h7pm-late;bJR YamanoteLine to Shinjuku (east exit)Although the heart of Tokyos gay district isthe last place youd expect to find a 200-year-old soba shop, Kinkantei is the realthing. Although purists swear that soba thistraditional should just be eaten as is, moreavant-garde diners can dress their dishesup with a whole slew of treats includingthe restaurants signature deep-fried natt(fermented beans) wrapped in seaweed.

OMOIDE-YOKOCHMap p116 Yakitori Nishi-Shinjuku 1-chme, Shinjuku-ku; skewers from100;bJR Yamanote Line t o Shinjuku (west exit)Literally translated as Memory Lane (andless politely known as Piss Alley) Omoide-yokoch will be but a memory when itsrazed to make way for new developmentby mid-2009. A remnant of postwar Tokyo,the alley is lined with wooden shacks sell-

ing yakitori and cold beers to long-timeregulars stop by around 7pm to indulgein a few skewers and preemptive nostalgia.

IKEBUKUROAfter an afternoon spent wandering aroundIkebukuro, youll have noticed that many ofthe areas eateries are jammed with youngsalarymen with a bit of time on their hands.Accordingly, many places are very cheap andrather uninspired. However, nearby Taka-danobaba, which is located at the crossroadsof several universities, has its artsy cafs andinternational restaurants catering to studentswith big appetites and smaller budgets.

SHAMAIM off Map p122 Israeli %3948-5333; 2nd fl, Art Bldg, 4-11 Sakae-cho,Nerima-ku; buffet 2000;h5pm-midnight, Tue-Fri, noon-midnight Sat & Sun;bSeibu-IkebukuroLine to Ekoda (south exit); EA quick train ride from Ikebukuro will bringyou to this Israeli-owned restaurant, whichserves up an incredible all-you-can-eatfeast thatll having you dreaming about atrip to the Middle East. Gorge yourself onpita, hummus, meat skewers, cucumbersalads and rice pilaf, but be sure to savesome room for a hot cup of mint tea, somesyrupy baklava and the obligatory apple

EATIN

GIKEBUKURO

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DEPACHIKAHungry for the next culinary novelty, OLs (office ladies) and o-bsan (grandmotherly types) prowl the mazes ofdepachika, the cavernous food halls in department store basements. Depachika often take up several floors, housing astaggering array of foodstuffs of the highest order, freshly prepared and often gorgeously packaged for presentation asgifts. Depending on the most au courantfood trends, you could find black truffle oil or dessert vinegar just round thecorner from the more traditional 573 grades of the seasons green tea and wagashi(delicate candies). Though samplesare harder to come by these days, the sharp-eyed will find nibbles of sublime chocolate, sesame-seed sembei(crunchyrice crackers) and dried squid.

Large department stores are often attached to major train stations ber-convenient for picking up museum-qualitybent (boxed lunch) for dinner, picnic items for a sunny afternoon or a fancy gift of flower-shaped okashi(sweets).

If you can read Japanese, do as obsessive OLs do and monitor the days specials on www.depachika.com. If not,descend into one of the following basements, among Tokyos best depachika.

Isetan (Map p116;%3352-1111; 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku;h10am-8pm;bMarunouchi or Toei ShinjukuLine to Shinjuku-sanchme, exits B3, B4 & B5) The grandmother of them all.

Matsuya (Map p62;%3567-1211; 3-6-1 Ginza, Ch-ku;h10.30am-7.30pm;bGinza, Hibiya or MarunouchiLine to Ginza, exits A12 & A13) An upmarket Ginza stalwart. Also has branches in Asakusa and Ahikabara (see p137).

Mitsukoshi (Map p62;%3241-3311; 4-6-16 Ginza, Ch-ku;h10am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-7pm Sun;

bGinza, Hibiya or Marunouchi Line to Ginza, exit A7) Classic style and status at this Ginza institution. Furtheroutlets can be found in Ikebukuro, Marunouchi and Ebisu (see p136).