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Why Go? Big, diverse and largely undiscovered, Ukraine (Україна) is one of Europe’s last genuine travel frontiers, a poor nation rich in colour-splashed tradition, warm-hearted people and off-the-map travel experiences. ‘Ukraine’ means ‘land on the edge’, an apt title for this slab of Eurasia in many ways. This is the Slavic hinterland on Europe’s periphery, a mere two decades into a troubled in- dependence and dogged by Second World political anguish, ethnic divisions and deep-rooted corruption. But it’s a country whose peoples can pull together when need arises, most re- cently for the remarkably successful Euro 2012 soccer cham- pionships which showed off the country at its hospitable best. Most visitors head for capital Kyiv, but architecturally rich Lviv and hedonistic Odesa are attracting ever greater numbers. Add a spot of hiking or skiing in the Carpathians and the balmy beaches of Crimea, and Ukraine becomes a much more diverse destination than many might imagine. When to Go Apr Witness Ukraine’s funny side at Odesa’s Carnival Humo- rina festival of humour. May Take a Sunday morning stroll through Lviv when church music wafts through streets. Dec Enjoy some hearty Hutsul apres ski during the Carpathian ski season. F D N O S A J J M A M J Kyiv °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm 0 10/250 4/100 6/150 8/200 2/50 0/32 -10/14 -20/-4 20/68 30/86 10/50 Kyiv .............................. 915 Lviv ............................... 925 Kamyanets-Podilsky .... 932 Odesa ........................... 934 Crimea .........................940 Simferopol ...................940 Yalta .............................. 942 Bakhchysaray .............. 944 Understand Ukraine ..... 946 Survival Guide .............. 952 Best Places to Eat » Spotykach (p922) » Pervak (p922) » Gogol Mogol (p937) » Masonic Restaurant (p929) » Vegeteriya (p941) Best Places to Stay » Sunflower B&B (p921) » Vintage (p929) » Leopolis Hotel (p929) » On the Corner (p931) » Villa Sofia (p943) Ukraine ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Page 1: Ukraine - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/...12-ukraine-preview.pdf · »»Borsch The Ukrainian national soup, which is made with beetroot, pork fat and herbs. There’s

Why Go?Big, diverse and largely undiscovered, Ukraine (Україна) is one of Europe’s last genuine travel frontiers, a poor nation rich in colour-splashed tradition, warm-hearted people and off-the-map travel experiences.

‘Ukraine’ means ‘land on the edge’, an apt title for this slab of Eurasia in many ways. This is the Slavic hinterland on Europe’s periphery, a mere two decades into a troubled in-dependence and dogged by Second World political anguish, ethnic divisions and deep-rooted corruption. But it’s a country whose peoples can pull together when need arises, most re-cently for the remarkably successful Euro 2012 soccer cham-pionships which showed off the country at its hospitable best.

Most visitors head for capital Kyiv, but architecturally rich Lviv and hedonistic Odesa are attracting ever greater numbers. Add a spot of hiking or skiing in the Carpathians and the balmy beaches of Crimea, and Ukraine becomes a much more diverse destination than many might imagine.

When to Go

Apr Witness Ukraine’s funny side at Odesa’s Carnival Humo-rina festival of humour.

May Take a Sunday morning stroll through Lviv when church music wafts through streets.

Dec Enjoy some hearty Hutsul apres ski during the Carpathian ski season.

F DNOSAJJMAMJ

Kyiv°C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm

0

10/250

4/100

6/150

8/200

2/50

0/32

-10/14

-20/-4

20/68

30/86

10/50

Kyiv .............................. 915Lviv ............................... 925Kamyanets-Podilsky .... 932Odesa ...........................934Crimea .........................940Simferopol ...................940Yalta ..............................942Bakhchysaray ..............944Understand Ukraine .....946Survival Guide ..............952

Best Places to Eat»» Spotykach (p922) »» Pervak (p922) »» Gogol Mogol (p937) »» Masonic Restaurant

(p929) »» Vegeteriya (p941)

Best Places to Stay»» Sunflower B&B (p921) »» Vintage (p929) »» Leopolis Hotel (p929) »» On the Corner (p931) »» Villa Sofia (p943)

Ukraine

©Lonely»Planet»Publications»Pty»Ltd

Page 2: Ukraine - Lonely Planetmedia.lonelyplanet.com/shop/...12-ukraine-preview.pdf · »»Borsch The Ukrainian national soup, which is made with beetroot, pork fat and herbs. There’s

Ukraine

Ukraine

Ukraine

914

ItInerarIes

One»WeekBegin by sampling the charms of Kyiv before heading either south to party in Odesa or west for a more refined and relaxed time in Lviv. Alternatively, take in Kyiv and Lviv then trundle on down into the Carpathian moun-tains for a spot of skiing, hiking or mountain biking.

two»WeeksSpend three days in Kyiv, two in Lviv, then pass through rocking Odesa to Crimea, making Yalta your base and being sure to visit Bakhchysaray.

ConnectionsUkraine is well linked to its neighbours, particularly Rus-sia and Belarus, with whom it shares the former Soviet rail system. Kyiv is connected by bus or train to Moscow, St Petersburg, Minsk, Warsaw and Budapest, as well as other Eastern European capitals. Odesa is the hub for travelling to the Moldovan capital Chişinău and Tiraspol in Transdni-ester, with several daily buses and one train a day making the trip. The city also has ferries to Bulgaria, Georgia and Turkey, though the service is erratic. From Uzhhorod it’s a short journey to the international mainline into Europe at Chop, connecting Ukraine with Slovakia and Hungary. Lviv is the biggest city servicing the Polish border and an ever-increasing number of travellers are taking budget flights to Poland then crossing the border to Lviv by bus or train. It’s also possible to take no-frills flights to Budapest or Bratis-lava, and continue to Ukraine from there by train.

Essential Food & Drink»» Borsch The Ukrainian national soup, which is made with

beetroot, pork fat and herbs. There’s also an aromatic ‘green’ variety, based on sorrel.»» salo Basically raw pig fat, cut into slices and eaten with

bread or added to soups and other dishes. Look out for the ‘Ukrainian Snickers bar’ – salo in chocolate.»» Varenyky Similar to Polish pierogi – pasta pockets filled

with everything from mashed potato to sour cherries.»» Kasha Sometimes translated as ‘porridge’, but usually

turns out to be buckwheat swimming in milk and served for breakfast.»» Vodka Also known in Ukraine as horilka, it accompanies

every celebration, red-letter day and get-together – in copi-ous amounts.

at»a»GLance»» currency Hryvnya

(uah)»» Language Ukrain-

ian, Russian»» Money ATMs wide-

spread; credit cards accepted at most hotels»» Visas Not required

for EU, UK, US and Canadian citizens for stays of up to 90 days

Fast Facts»» area 603,628 sq km»» capital Kyiv»» country»code %380»» emergency %112

Exchange Rates

Australia A$1 8.51uah

Canada C$1 8.02uah

Euro Zone €1 10.42uah

Japan ¥100 8.64uah

New Zealand

NZ$1 6.82uah

UK UK£1 12.33uah

USA US$1 8.15uah

Set Your Budget»» Budget»hotel»room

200uah»» two-course»meal 60uah»» Museum»entrance

10–30uah»» Beer 15–25uah»» city»transport»ticket

1–2uah

Resources»» Brama (www.brama.

com)»» Ukraine.com (www.

ukraine.com)