warp knit spacer fabric - ft.tul.cz · underlap overlap . 22.05.2013 warp knit spacer fabric 8 open...
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PROJEKT OPTIS PRO FT, reg. č.: CZ.1.07/2.2.00/28.0312 JE SPOLUFINANCOVÁN EVROPSKÝM SOCIÁLNÍM FONDEM A STÁTNÍM ROZPOČTEM ČESKÉ REPUBLIKY
Warp Knit Spacer Fabric
Construction and Produkt Development
Referent: Prof. Dr.- Ing. Katerina Machova
Weft Knit Warp Knit
22.05.2013 2 Warp Knit Spacer Fabric
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Weft Knit Machine - Single Face Fabric
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RL Kettenwirkerei
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7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
Nadelbarrenbezeichnung
Controlside of the Machine (Electronics, cam or Chain link)
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7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
Maschenbildung
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7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
Maschenbildung
Underlap
Overlap
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Open loop Closed loop
loop head
loop leg
loop foot
underlap
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7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0
Maschenbildung
open loop closed loop
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Guide bar with yarn: brings the yarn to the needle due right and left motion
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Double Face Warp Knit
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threading scheme
Pillar Stitch
V 0
1
H 0
1
F B
F B
1 0
F B
F B
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threading scheme
Pillar Stitch
F 0
1
B 0
1
F B
F B
1 0
F B
F B
front loop
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threading scheme
Pillar Stitch
F 0
1
B 0
1
F B
F B
1 0
F B
F B
back loop
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Building of 3D Structure
first layer will be build only on front needle row
middle layer will be build on both needle row
second layer will be build only on back needle row
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F B
F B
F B
F B
F B
F B
F B
F B
2 1 0 2 1 0 2 1 0 F B
F B
F B
F B
front layer middle layer back layer
1–0/ 1-1 // 0–1 / 0-1 // 1–1/ 1-0 //
Warp Knit Produkts
Offecct
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Development of 3D Vent® by Steynbach
3D Vent ® is extrem function material without chemical additives. It ist combination of: Wooll Polyester Polyamid
Development of jackets
with integrated spacer fabrics
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Conditions to consider: - using of spacer fabric and ultralight PA weaving fabric - no seems of spacer fabric to feel on the skin - no seems of spacer fabric to see due the cover material - cut construcktion of cover material and inlay - processing of hems
Development of jackets – design draft
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Development of jackets – cut development
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Man Body
Body contour chest: 100 cm
U= 2���� plus 2 cm for s.fabric plus 2,5 cm for c.fabric
Spacer contour : 113,1 cm
Cover contour : 116,2 cm
rmodel = 16 cm
rspacer = 18 cm
rcover = 18,5 cm
Man Body
Development of jackets – cut development
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→ 3 cm distributed on 4 cut parts Cover fabric will be to 0,75 cm expanded in the width in comparison to spacer fabric.
Body contour chest: 100 cm
U= 2���� plus 2 cm for s.fabric plus 2,5 cm for c.fabric
Spacer contour : 113,1 cm
Cover contour : 116,2 cm
rmodel = 15,9 cm
rspacer = 18 cm
rcover = 18,5 cm
Development of jackets – cut development
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0,325 0,325 0,75 0,75
Development of jackets – cut development
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0,3
0,
3
0,3
0,
3
Development of jackets – seem development
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Development of jackets – seem development
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Development of jackets – seem development
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Development of jackets
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Unexpected Problems: - processing of zipper - processing of edges of the jackets
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Development of jackets - Result