warsaw

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WarsawApril - May 2014

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inyourpocket.com

4 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com

Contents

Feature You Light Up My Life! 8

Arrival & Transport 12

City Basics 18

History Basics 20

Culture & Events 22

Restaurants 28

Cafs 57

Nightlife 58

Sightseeing Essential Warsaw 51Sightseeing 70Old Town 82The Royal Route 85Palace of Culture and Science 87Praga 88Copernicus Science Center 90azienki 92Wilanw 95Jewish Warsaw 98

Warsaw Uprising 101Chopin 105

Further Afi eld d 108

Leisure 110

Shopping 112

Directory 118

Hotels 120

Maps & IndexStreet Index 124City Centre Map 125City Map 126-127Country Map 128Listings Index 129Features Index 130

IN PRINTONLINEON YOUR MOBILE

Neon Muzeum Ilona Karwiska

E S S E N T I A LC I T Y G U I D E S

PLAC TEATRALNY 3, WARSAWTEL. +48 601 81 82 83

[email protected]


ForewordWelcome to Warsaw and the 80th edition of Warsaw In Your Pocket! Faithful readers might notice that this issue of Warsaw IYP has a new look. Thats right, to commemorate our 80th issue weve given the guide a thorough overhaul. Warsaw IYP is now cleaner, sleeker, sexier, and just as clever as ever. Weve tweaked this edition to be both easier to read and easier to use. We hope that you, our readers, will be happy with the results of our e ort. Let us know what you think about it on Facebook (/warsawinyourpocket.com) or old-fashioned email: [email protected].

In addition to the new design, weve got plenty of new con-tent as well including an in depth look at how Warsaws sto-ried Neon signs came to be and where and when you should go and see (p. 8). We also have plenty of events to recom-mend in the coming months from the smooth jazz stylings of Kenny G (if thats your cup of tea) to the classical virtuosity of Nigel Kennedy and the eclectic electronic sounds of Cut Copy. So grab a co ee, have a read, tuck us In Your Pocket and get out there and enjoy the spring in Warsaw!

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ABOUT IYPIts now 22 years since we published the rst In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Eu-rope. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching ve million. We will be expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannes-burg: our rst outside of Europe.

To keep up to date with all thats new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (face-book.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

PublisherIYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.ul. Sawkowska 12, 31-014 [email protected] www.inyourpocket.com

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Editorial Editor: Thymn Chase; Contributing Writer: Mat Fahrenholz; Research Manager: Anna Hojan; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan, Kalina Klimaszewska; Layout: Tom Haman; Events: Anna Hojan, Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated; Cover itsmejust/istockphoto.com

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Copyright Notice & Editors NoteText, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).The editorial content of In Your pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every e ort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

FEATUREWarsaw is one of those cities that pays great dividends if you look up every once and a while.. Perched atop many of the huge communist era buildings in the city center are original or recent-ly restored retro Neon signs. By day they look great but at night theyre out of sight. To nd out more about Warsaws Neon signage check out the fea-ture on page 8.

April - May 2014 9 facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

You Light Up My Life!

You Light Up My Life!WARSAWS ENDURING LOVE AFFAIR WITH NEON LIGHTS

Stop for a moment and think about your perceptions of Poland during the communist years - the so called PRL era. Chances are your mind will conjure up visions of bleak and colourless concrete heavy cityscapes with miserable old grannies and drunks trudging through the mud and snow pulling trolleys laden with potatoes and toilet paper behind them. That vision may be partly true, however, hold your horses now, the reality was actually brighter and more exciting than our history teachers and the western media led us to believe.

After the death of Stalin in 1953 Polands authorities were well aware of the opportunity to break free from the shack-les of the Socialist Realist urban vision and a less restric-tive and artistically creative period for architects, designers and city planners ensued.

One of the more interesting state endorsed projects of the time was to encourage the installation of neon signage. Although the popularity of neons in Poland continued into the 1970s the high point lasted from the late 1950s to the mid 1960s, with the programme employing 1000s of peo-ple in the designing, production, installation and mainte-nance of these liquid re signs. Almost every application from state-run companies, cinemas, restaurants, cafes and theatres was quickly rubber-stamped, signed and given the go-ahead. Warsaw saw the installation of the most neons in the country but was closely followed by Katowice, as the state wished to emphasise the economic success of its industrial heartland.

First shown at the Paris Motor Show in 1910, neon light-ing rapidly became the medium for advertising. Soon after, cities like Paris, Berlin and New York were ablaze with colour by night, the signs were seen as symbols of moder-nity, progress, energy and the cultural high-life. Even today, it would be hard to imagine a sight which says more about nancial success and a happy-go-lucky approach to leisure time than a photo of Las Vegas at night.

One important cultural di erence is the fact that in Poland the signs were, more often than not, designed by some of the countrys top artists and graphic designers who were drafted in to add contemporary and creative air to the projects.

In Warsaw, the neons certainly brightened up the city, but in reality they also served as a convenient veneer, cover-ing over the fact that behind the modernist faades and bright lights, the shelves of shops were regularly empty or that the glamorously advertised restaurants and cafes could rarely sell you a beer or a bite to eat.

As the country drifted into the economic despair of the 1970s the last thing on peoples minds was fancy energy wasting ad-vertising, proclaiming non-existent lifestyles and goods. The lights started going out and due to the lack of maintenance and general apathy the neons were quickly forgotten about. The collapse of communism and the hatred of anything to do with that era saw many important architectural buildings torn down and neons tossed into the dustbin of history, or simply left to fall into further states of disrepair and neglect.

Todays interest in all things retro and the burgeoning contemporary arts scene in Warsaw means that the im-portance and preservation of the citys neons has become a matter of urgency and necessity. A new generation of Var-sovians see these iconic works as part of a cultural legacy and a unique part of the citys heritage, rather than simply a by-product of a much despised totalitarian system.

|Syrenka | Ilona Karwiska|

Neon Muzeum Berlin Mat Fahrenholz

Neon Muzeum logo Ilona Karwiska

Izis, ul. Marszalkowska Mat Fahrenholz

10 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.inyourpocket.com April - May 2014 11 facebook.com/WarsawInYourPocket

You Light Up My Life!You Light Up My Life!

Nobody deserves more credit for the resurgence of interest in Polish neon than the photographer Ilona Karwiska and designer David S Hill. Karwiska has been documenting the neons of Warsaw, and throughout Poland, since 2005 and her co ee table tome - Polish Cold War Neon - is a lavish photographic record of the most iconic neons in the country. An exhibition of her photographs has travelled extensively throughout Europe and was instrumental in raising the pro- le of Polish neon and letterforms to new audiences.

Not content with simply recording the objects, in 2012 the pair opened the Neon Museum in the fashionable Soho Factory (ul. Miska 25, building 55, Praga Poudnie, open Wed-Sat 12:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 16:00, www.neonmuzeum.org), a complex of design and architects of- ces, shops, restaurants and publishers in the Praga dis-trict of Warsaw. The museum is home to over 50 neons and around 500 letterforms as well as a huge archive of documentation, blueprints, photographs and original plans relating to the history of these signs. Other buildings around the complex play host to some of the neons from the collection, so be sure to check out the wall spaces and

rooftops while wandering around. These outdoor exhibits come to life during the hours of darkness, but do keep in mind that the museum itself will be closed at night. An-other important aspect of the museums work is to renovate and maintain neons which are still in-situ around the city. Their latest on-site project has been the renovation of the Syrenka (the Warsaw mermaid symbol) perched upon an open book and a giant pencil. The building previously served as a public library and the neon can be seen at ul. Grjecka 81/87 (D-5).

Interestingly, much of the renovation and restoration work carried out for the museum is undertaken by Reklama, a local company whose history dates back to the 1950s and were the original producers of many of the neons which are now being restored by them. Some of the highly skilled employees still recall working on the originals during the late 1960s and early 1970s!

Being a labour of love for Karwiska and Hill, the Neon Museum is entirely privately funded by money raised from organising events, sponsorship from private companies (aptly, the energy company RWE is one of the major sup-porters of the project) and the hard work of a passionate team of volunteers. There is no entrance fee for visiting the museum, but visitors can leave a donation. The gift shop also features a unique and brilliant selection of collection inspired designer products.

In order to see Socialist period neons in their original set-tings in Warsaw a good starting point is the agship, early 1950s, Socialist Realist Plac Konstytucji (Constitution Square, F-4) . Up until the early 1980s this large square was aglow with vast neon signs. Today, amongst the giant bill-

boards and vulgar uorescent lights advertising the likes of Samsung and Orange, a gem of PRL era neon is still in place - the Siatkarka (the volleyball player) is situated on the corner of the square and ul. Pikna (F-4) this leaping female form blasts a volleyball into the air and then in a sequence of neon lights the ball drops down the elevation of the building. Designed by the famous artist and print-maker Jan Mucharski in 1961 to advertise a sports shop of the time, the neon was restored to its former glory in 2005 thanks to the initiative of artist Paulina Orowska and the support of the Foksal Foundation Gallery.

Head back towards the city centre to check out the lovely neon roses and letterforms outside the legendary health and beauty centre IZIS (a business establish way back in 1927) at ul. Marszakowska 55/73 (F-4).

Warsaws stunning, in our opinion at least, early 1970s Central railway station (Dworzec Centralny, A/B-4) may have undergone a recent upgrade, but in keeping with the design the faade has kept its chunky neon name. The new pavilions in the main hall are also adorned with retro style neon signs. Cross the road to Plac De lad (B-4) and check out the 1963 Warszawa rdmiecie (Warsaw City-centre) railway station with its functional, austere and old-school socialist rooftop neon. Youll nd

more neons by taking a walk round the Palace of Cul-ture (page 89). Ironically, the Technical Museum, which is housed in the Palace, has only three of its neon letters lighting up!

One of the crowning glories of Warsaw neons must be the globe which sits atop the Orbis Hotel at the corner of ul. Bracka and Al. Jerozolimskie (C-4). The globus Orbis may look spectacular but sadly, the current version is in fact a modern replica. The original, installed in 1951 was one of the oldest neons in the city. Due to corrosion and neglect it was deemed to be unrestorable and was replaced with the new model in 2011.

From the Globe take a short stroll down to the palm tree at the crossing of Al. Jerozolimskie and Nowy wiat, look to the right, in the direction of Plac Trzech Krzyy, and youll see the dynamic Dancing sign standing proud on the rooftop of Nowy wiat 3/5 (C-4) . This neon was installed in 1962 to advertise Melodia, one of Warsaws most popular post-war dancehalls.

One of the more bizarre neons to be found in the city cen-tre can be seen on top of the Emil Wedel townhouse at ul. Szpitalna 8 (B-3). The building dates back to 1893 and was built in front of the famous chocolate manufacturers original factory. Stop o for a hot chocolate in the glamor-ous old-world Pijalnia Czekolady Wedel on the ground oor of the building, before peering skywards to see a large neon featuring a rather Brothers Grimm looking young lad riding a zebra and carrying huge bars of chocolate on his back! The whole weird scene is undersigned with the companys trademark - E. Wedels signature.

New and fashionable businesses in the city now regularly use retro Polish style neon signs for their logos. For a good comparison visit Relax Cafe Bar, (see page 57) stroll 50 metres along the street, look up, and youll see the original Relax Cinema (closed in 2006) neon sign at ul. Zota 8 (B-3). The local snack chain Zapiexy Luxusowe (ul. Widok 19, B-4) also uses a neon logo for its shop fronts which is heav-ily in uenced by Polish designs from the 1960s.

Neon Muzeum Mat Fahrenholz

Neon Museum Photo by Mat Fahrenholz

Dworzec Centralny Mat Fahrenholz

Warszawa rdmiecie Mat Fahrenholz

Dancing Mat Fahrenholz

Wedel Mat Fahrenholz

Relax Cafe Bar Mat Fahrenholz


Arrival & TransportArrival & Transport

BY TRAINWarsaws main train station, Centralna, is a hulking metal giant that sits conveniently in the citys center and is the main hub for trains arriving in the capital. Additionally pas-sengers may disembark at the smaller Warszawa Wschod-nia on the eastern side of the Vistula river between Praga Pnoc and Praga Poudnie districts, and Warszawa Zachod-nia on the border of Ochota and Wola districts to the west of the city.

WARSZAWA CENTRALNA TRAIN STATIONWarsaw Central Station (Warszawa Centralna) is exactly what it says on the tin: central. And thanks to recent renovations were happy to say its now easy to navigate as well. Centralna is looking better than it ever has with new storefronts and modern upgrades that will impress those whove been away for a while. From alighting the train you should take one of the two facing escalators (if theyre working) in the centre of the platform, which will lead you up into one of the un-derground passages that ank the main hall. Whichever side you come up on you will be one level below ground level and the ticket hall. Kantors can be found in the underground passageway between Centralna and the Marriott. Signs for ATMs (bankomats) are everywhere, and though once sparse the machines can be spotted at almost every turn.

Tourist info can be found across the street at the Palace of Culture - just look for the i sign (Open 08:00 - 18:00. From May open 08:00 - 20:00). They can provide you with maps, etc. Tickets for the public transport system can be bought from most of the newspaper kiosks. Left luggage is located in the underground corridor that runs below the main hall. Look for Przechowalnia Bagau, where stewards will look after your bag, or opt for one of the plentiful lockers. Con-nect to a Polish network via mobile by getting SIM and pre-paid cards from the same newsagents.

Both entrances of the main hall are covered by taxi ranks, and by passing via tunnels under the main road youll nd bus and tram stops though once you enter the signs are more of a hinderance than a help and you may never be seen or heard of again. O cially sanctioned ELE taxis can be found at the rank on Aleje Jerozolimskie and SAWA taxis can be found rank on the Zote Tarasy side.

On the ground level there is a travel o ce run by Polish rail. Find it on the Zote Tarasy side of the building to the right of the stairs heading down to the platforms under the Cen-trum Obslugi Klienta sign (info line 197 57, www.intercity.pl). Open from 09:00 - 21:00, the multi-lingual sta (they can even assist the deaf ) can search for the cheapest/easi-est connection, sell you international and domestic tickets, and can help plan your trip for you.

The selection of outlets selling food and drink at Centralna has improved dramatically with the renovations. There are all kinds of local and international co ee joints, fast food chains and kebab shops to grab a quick bite or pass some time. If you have a lot of time to kill, Champions in the Marriott can be reached via the underground passageway and o ers a far better place to sit and wait than the station itself, as does the nearby Zote Tarasy shopping centre. Dont be alarmed to nd Warszawa Centralna used as a drop-in centre by War-saws homeless population - while most are harmless some like to pass their time being drunk and abusive. Bizarrely, while the Polish rail sta manning the ticket booths are mo-no-lingual, the tramps in Centralna seem adept at begging in a multitude of tongues.QA/B-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 54, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reserva-tions cannot be made between 23:30 - 01:00.

WARSZAWA WSCHODNIA TRAIN STATIONQH-1, ul. Kijowska 8, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones). Open 24hrs. Note that due to system maintenance seat reservations cannot be made between 23:30 - 01:00.

WARSZAWA ZACHODNIA TRAIN STATIONQD-4, ul. Tunelowa 1, tel. (+48) 22 39 19 757 (from foreign mobile phones). Ticket offi ce open from 03:30 - 24:00.

BY PLANEGetting in and out of Warsaw by plane improved drastically in recent times. The capitals main air hub - Chopin Airport - got a modern overhaul, while budget carriers moved in at the new Modlin Airport just northwest of the city. That was until winter came and the Modlin runway cracked apart (bravo). It has now nally been repaired, but the wise men at WizzAir prefer to remain at Chopin, while Ryanair recently resumed their ight schedule at Modlin.

WARSAW CHOPIN AIRPORT (LOTNISKO CHOPINA W WARSZAWIE)Warsaw Chopin Airport has recently seen the opening of Zone CDE, a glass and steel giant that sits rather awkwardly next to the older Zone AB (which is currently under major renovation and will remain closed until 2015). Collectively they are called Terminal A, and the spacious CDE now handles all incoming and outgoing tra c. The hallway con-necting the zones houses ATMs, exchange o ces, tourist info, co ee shops and snack marts.

WARSAW MODLIN AIRPORTThe brand new Modlin airport looks like a shiny overturned tin can nestled in a forest in the middle of nowhere, which is essen-tially what it is. Those looking to end up in

Warsaw city center have three main options for trans-port: grab a cab or private shuttle, take a bus to the capital, or board one of the green and yellow shuttles that will take you to Modlin Train Station where you then take a train to your destination. The train route is economical (15z for shuttle and train) although slightly time consuming. If money isnt an option Glob Taxi is currently o ering transport to the city centre for 99-109z during the week (weekends after 22:00 add 30%). Also recommended are Sawa Taxi and Taxi Modlin. For other private transport options check out Modlin-Transport.pl or look up AB Everest. Overall, the most practical means of transport is prob-ably to take one of the several private bus services avail-able. Translud is the cheapest overall transport option but Modlin Bus is faster and doesnt involve annoying transfers. For a full listing of Modlin Airport Transfer services check our our online guide.Qul. Gen. Wiktora Thommee 1a, Nowy Dwr Mazowiecki, tel. (+48) 22 346 43 63, www.modlinairport.pl.

MODLIN TRANSFERSAB EVEREST

Relieve the strain of standing around looking lost and bewil-dered at Modlin by booking the door-to-door services of AB Ever-est. Fill out the English reservation

form on their website and an English speaking driver will be waiting to whisk you straight to your destina-tion. Prices start at 40z per person but the price gets cheaper the more passengers there are travelling to the same address. There is an additional fee if you want to go to further ung districts such as Ursynw, Wilanw ,Wawer, Targwek etc. Check their website for details.Qtel. (+48) 722 261 731, www.abeverest.pl/en.

MODLIN BUSModlin Bus company o ers two routes from the air-port coordinated with airline schedules: one deposits travellers outside Warszawa Centralna train station at Al. Jerozolimskie 56C (at guarded parking) for 33z, while the other either drops you at the Mociny metro station for 29z or whisks you onward to d Kaliska for 44 z; tickets can be purchased at the well-marked desk near the airports exit, and all buses are equipped with wi- .Qtel. (+48) 801 80 10 81, www.modlinbus.com.

TRAIN SMARTSThe Polish rail network is generally in decent shape even if the rolling stock is by and large something you may have travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly better than Britains railways; youll nd most trains run on time, are cheap, and dont crash. Travelling times are generally pretty slow even on Intercity trains with lim-ited high-speed sections of track throughout the coun-try. That is being remedied but in turn this is causing increased travelling times on many lines. Tickets are by western standards very cheap with a rst -class ticket to Krakw from Warsaw for instance setting you back about 150z (about 40).The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types of train. Express InterCity (EIC) trains are the fast-est, newest and most expensive of the lot, with rst and second class compartments holding up to six people and seat reservations required. New rolling stock is ap-pearing with open carriages and 230v AV sockets. The Express (EX) train is less modern than the EIC but still considered expensive, and also requires seat reserva-tions. The EuroCity (EC) trains o er international connec-tions and seat reservations as well. Cheapskates looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper Twoje Linie Kolejowe (TLK) which has second class seats that often require no seat reservation and rst class seats that do; the InterREGIO (IR) trains, which are the cheapest, have only second class seats and require no reservation; and the REGIOekspres (RE) which no longer has seat reservations available online. With the budget options you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your journey is guaranteed to try your good humour.More information on train times and prices check the very useful www.rozklad.pkp.pl which has an English option. There is the functionality to book tickets online once you have registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/index.jsp). This option allows you to book a ticket and seat in one without the hassle of queuing at the station.If you nd yourself faced with long queues in the train station then youll be pleased to hear you can hop on the desired train and buy a ticket direct from the conductor. Youll pay a small surcharge for this (approx 15z), and credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are expected to greet others in their compartment with a curt dzie dobry, and it is taken as given that a male passengers will help females or the elderly with any heavy baggage.Finally most stations throughout the country are ap-pallingly lacking in signs denoting the station name and its surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Commu-nicating with your fellow passengers can save a lot of time and frustration.

Arrivals PrzyjazdyDepartures OdjazdyPlatform Peron

Fot. PKP S.A./ P. Krzywicki



and you should be heading in most cases for the Central Train Station (Dworzec Warszawa Centralna) and its neigh-bour, the Palace of Culture (PKiN). Parking in the central area is generally available on-street where there are stan-dard parking charges payable at roadside machines. Most major hotels will o er some form of o -road guarded park-ing. Be warned that Polish roads and Polish drivers are not the best especially if you have driven in western Europe.Indeed, Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities, a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of dif-ferent tra c and, most of all, drivers who have no consider-ation for anybody else result in the common sight of man-gled car wrecks around the country. Police seem unwilling to control irresponsible driving, and dont be surprised to see cars shooting through red lights, cutting each other up and staking a claim for the Formula 1 championship.The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. Seat belts must be worn at all times and it is illegal for driv-ers to use hand-held mobile phones. Following the letter of the law all cars should be equipped with a rst aid kit, warning triangle, re extinguisher, rear mud aps and right and left hand outside mirrors. Flouting the rules will cost you 200z (for using a mobile), 100z (not wearing a seat belt) and up to 500z for speeding. The legal limit for drink driving is 0.2 blood/alcohol level. Put simply, if youre driving, dont drink. EU citizens may use their home driving licenses as long as they are valid, however citizens of countries that didnt

The taxi rank outside exits 1 and 2 o ers three certi ed com-panies: Super Taxi, Sawa Taxi and Ele Taxi. The 15-30 minute ride to the centre costs around 35-50z, though be on guard for unlicensed sharks who will try to charge three or four times that. After hearing several complaints, we suggest agreeing on the price with your driver before setting o .Cheapskates can catch the brand new train into the city or get bus number 175.The train station can be found underground by turning right outside of whichever arrivals area you leave from and going all the way to the end of the covered section where you will nd escalators taking you down to ticket booths. The SKM trains run three times per hour and are red and white in co-lour. Line S2 takes you to rdmiecie station in the city cen-tre, while line S3 takes you to Warszawa Centralna station. To take one of these trains you need a normal public transport ticket (exactly the same as what youd use for the bus) that are available from the ticket booths and cost 4.40z. The KM trains run once per hour, are green and white, and will take you to Centralna. They have their own ticket o ce at the sta-tion with a xed price of 5,80z, but you can use an SKM ticket here as long as you have the train driver validate it. Got that? The train ride should take around 20 minutes. Bus stops can be found in front of arrivals at Zone AB and Zone CDE. Buses run frequently between 04:27 and 22:57 with journey time taking approximately 25 minutes. At night when the 175 stops running travellers can take the N32 night bus, which runs every 30 minutes.Qul. wirki i Wigury 1, tel. (+48) 22 650 42 20, www.lotnisko-chopina.pl.

WARSAW SHUTTLEThe company o ers private airport transfer services at com-petitive prices from 79PLN per run. Highest quality for the best possible price. Call in advance to book or book online.Qtel. (+48) 506 17 54 95, www.warsawshuttle.com.

BY CARWarsaw is located in the heart of the country and has ex-tensive road links with other major Polish cities. Having said that the competition on the roads front isnt erce. Roads leading into Warsaw tend to be of decent dual carriageway standard, though once you enter the city limits Warsaw tra c can become a serious problem - particularly during the week. Most major hotels are located in the central area

ratify the Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will nd their licenses invalid (though that hasnt stopped anyone we know from driving their girlfriends car). Carry your license and passport at all times when driving. Since April 2007 it has been compulsory for headlights to be switched on at all times.

GUARDED PARKINGThe underground parking is guarded while the other park-ing is supervised.QB-3, ul. Krlewska 11 (Sofi tel Warsaw Victoria Hotel).

TAXISThe days when cash bells would ring whenever a cab driver would hear a foreign accent might have passed, but its still always better to ring ahead rather than just hailing a taxi in the street. In particular be vigilant when taking a cab to the centre from the arrivals hall of the airport; weve heard plenty of horror stories. The ac-cepted fare from Warsaw Chopin Airport to the centre is 35-50z; we suggest that you agree upon this price with your driver before setting o in order to ensure avoiding any shenanigans.All the companies we list will usually have someone on their switchboard who can speak English. MPT, the state-run rm, can boast the most reliable reputation, but you wont nd many cheaper than Super Taxi. Find ELE taxis on the Marriott tower side of the central sta-tion; its the second row of cars. Tipping is not expected, but if your driver gets you from A to B without a detour through the countryside then by all means, feel free.

ELE TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 811 11 11, www.eletaxi.pl.HALO TAXI OKQtel. (+48) 22 196 23, www.halotaxiok.pl.MERC TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 677 77 77, www.6777777.pl.MPTQtel. (+48) 22 191 91, www.taximpt.pl.SAWA TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 644 44 44, www.sawataxi.com.pl.SUPER TAXIQtel. (+48) 22 196 22, www.supertaxi.pl.

Warsaw Chopin Airport Boston9/wikipedia/CC BY-SA 3.0

CONTACT:tel: +48 22 572 65 65www.avis.pl

* NET PRICE PER DAY, MIN. 3 DAYS REQUIRED, ECONOMY CLASS CAR, UNLIMITED MILAGE.

ESCAPE THE CITY TRAFFIC,GET ON THE OPEN ROAD AND EXPLORE POLAND WITH GREAT CAR RENTAL PRICES FROM 98 PLN*.

SPECIAL WEEKEND OFFER FOR YOUR CAR RENTAL.



Avis provide short-term and long-term rentals, chauf-feur drive service as well as

cargo van rentals. Theres over 1,000 models available, equipped with air-conditioning, air bags and ABS for your guaranteed comfort and safety. Also possible to exchange and swap cars. Also at Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (B-4, Marriott Hotel) and ul. opuszaska 12a (Wochy).Qul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 48 72, www.avis.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:30.

A wide range of cars from the Fiat Panda to the spacious Mer-cedes E-class. All cars

are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite navigation systems are also available. Special rates of-fered to those who order through the Joka website, and go online to nd the latest seasonal promotions.QD-2, ul. Okopowa 47, tel. (+48) 609 18 10 20, www.joka.com.pl. Open 09:00-17:00, Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. Outside of these hours open on request.

One of the worlds biggest car rental companies o ers

rental solutions tailor made for travellers (both short and long term) that will suit all needs (9 di erent cat-egories of cars are available; Europcar is present at all Polish airports and many other convenient locations). Europcar creates exible driving solutions to meet your individual mobility needs. Note that the Radisson Blue Sobieski is a meeting point (cars can be picked up and dropped o here).Qul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 25 64, www.europcar.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:00.

One of the worlds largest and oldest car rental companies o ers a choice of solutions

from short and long rental periods to holiday cars. Theres even a eet of limousines if youre interested. Vehicles range from Seats to luxury Mercedes. Bonuses include GPS and Sixt cards. Also at ul. Emilii Plater 49 (A-4, InterContinental Hotel).Qul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 20 31, www.sixt.pl. Open 07:00 - 23:30, Sat 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.

CAR RENTAL BY BUSIf you come to Warsaw by bus, odds are you'll be landing at the main bus station on Al. Jerozolimskie, while budget options like PolskiBus drop passengers o at Dworzec Au-tobusowy Metro Wilanowska, a short distance from the Metro Wilanowska stop.

MAIN BUS STATION (DWORZEC AUTOBUSOWY WARSZAWA ZACHODNIA)Coaches arrive and depart - unless otherwise stated - from the Warsaw West Bus Station (Dworzec Autobu-sowy Warszawa Zachodnia). Find a currency exchange and two ATM (bankomat) machines located in the main hall. There is no Tourist Info point, for the closest you'll have to make the journey into the Palace of Culture, Pl. De lad 1 (entrance from ul. Emill Plater). There's a legiti-mate left-luggage operation, as well as ve payphones located in one of the side corridors (though you'll need to buy phone cards to use them). You can do that by vis-iting one of the Relay kiosks in the main hall. You'll also be able to buy SIM cards, prepaid cards and transport cards from here. Taxis to centre run between 20-30zl (refuse a lift from any of the smiling unlicensed opera-tors who o er you a lift). The bus running to the centre is found right across a busy highway and getting there is an adventure in itself seeing there are no signposts in the subway leading there. Basically from the main hall duck down under the sign saying Dworzec PKP, head down the stairs, turn right, follow the corridor to its conclu-sion, turn right again - you'll see two stairwells leading to the surface. Take the left one and presto, there's your bus stop. Confused? Not half as much as we were. Good work Warsaw. To get to Central Station take bus number 127,158 or 517. At night you'll be needing and N35 or N85. The journey takes approximately 15 minutes so buy a 3,40z ticket valid for 20 minutes. Remember to validate your ticket on boarding.QD-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 144, tel. (+48) 703 40 33 30, www.pksbilety.pl. Ticket offi ce open 05:30 - 22:00.

POLSKIBUSNote that the Warsaw-Gdask route leaves from Metro Mociny.Qul. Puawska 145 (Dworzec Autobusowy Met-ro Wilanowska, stance14), www.polskibus.com.

PRIVATE TRANSPORTHELICOPTER.PLWhy travel with the masses when you can opt for your own private ight in a helicopter? Helicopter.pl o ers ights throughout Poland via hubs in Warsaw and Wrocaw. Flights take place in Eurocopters, which are renowned for their safety and modern design. Provide the number of people (and luggage) as well as your desired destination to the sta and theyll draw up a quote.Qul. Ksiycowa 3 (Bielany), building #15, tel. (+48) 509 26 04 00, www.helicopter.pl.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTWarsaw has an extensive bus and tram system criss-crossing the city as well as a good, but very limited, metro system running from north to south. Over 1,500 buses operate in and around the city, and most run from between 05:00 and 23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N,

followed by a two digit number. Fast buses' (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.

Tickets (all valid for use on metro, bus and tram) can be bought from some kiosks bearing the green and yellow RUCH logo, or anywhere with a sign reading Bilety. There are now also a series of ticket machines with instructions in English dotted around the city, and English translations are printed on tickets.

A standard public transport single ticket costs 4.40z. If you're travelling to the further reaches of War-saw you'll be needing a ticket that covers both zones 1 and 2 - these are priced at 7z. Note that the airport is in Zone 1. Still with us? Good. There is also a 20 minute ticket priced at 3.40z. Tickets valid for 24 hrs are priced at 15 or 26z if travelling through both zones. They have also introduced a new weekend ticket (avaible from 19:00 on Friday till 08:00 on Monday) which costs 24 z. Children ride free until the end of the August of the year they turn 7. (Really. Probably makes sense with vodka. Have proof of age ID handy). Everyone else pays full fare unless in possession of an ISIC card (in which case you must be 26 and under). This entitles you to buy a reduced ticket (ulgowy) which costs approximately 50% of the full fare.

You can buy single tickets from machines on most trams and busses or from the driver, though you must have exact change. Once you've got a ticket you will need to validate it in one of the box-style kasowniks, thus activating the magnetic strip on the back. On the metro this must be done before you get on board. It is no longer necessary to buy an extra ticket for ani-mals or large pieces of luggage. Plain clothes ticket inspectors regularly stalk the lines, dishing out 266z for those without valid tickets (we understand quick payment results in the fine being lessened). They often don't look very official and you are within your rights to request identification, or even do as the locals do, and attempt to bargain them down.Qtel. (+48) 19 115, www.ztm.waw.pl.

BUDGETQul. wirki i Wigury 1 (Airport), tel. (+48) 22 650 40 62, www.budget.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.


City BasicsCity Basics

ELECTRICITYElectricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up is at home as our residents Brits will testify although if you do arrive without a covertor you can try your ho-tel concierge or reception. If they don't have one the best place to pick one up is at one of the big electrical outlets often situated on the edge of town. Our advice is save yourself the hassle and get one in the airport as you leave.

HEALTH & EMERGENCYIn case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for an ambulance, 998 for the re brigade and 997 for the police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded to the relevant department. English speaking assistance is not

necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic capabili-ties of the operator.English, German and Russian speakers have the option of using separate lines speci cally designed for foreigners in distress: dial +48 608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can be reached from a mobile phone or a land line and are hotlines in case you run into any troubles dur-ing your stay. The lines are active year round with later hours during the high-tourist season. If you've woken up to nd you've got a raging headache, a swollen foot you can't put weight on and vague memories of some kind of calamity we suggest you sort it out by call-ing a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notori-ously long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clin-ics can be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list of which can also be found in the Directory. If it's a -nancial emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors) can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out for the Western Union logo.For a list of clinics and hospitals check the directory section at the back of this guide.

LAW & ORDERIn general Warsaw is far safer than most Western cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does exist, and travellers should be on guard against pick-pockets working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you're in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left ly-ing around. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Avoid being ripped o by opportunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind around the train station and airport. The o cially sanctioned state company MPT (tel. 22 19191) is possi-

bly the best bet, and their switchboard features English speaking operators. The vagrants and pondlife who gather around the train station are by in large harmless and eas-ily ignored. Warsaw's right bank has traditionally enjoyed something of a no-go reputation, though is now fast be-coming ever more trendy.Staying on the right side of the law is significantly easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If you're determined to make an idiot of yourself then make sure it's not in front of the law. In recent years visitors ranging from folks in Chewbacca costumes to complete fools who've thought it's perfectly acceptable to drop trousers and urinate in a city centre fountain have tested the patience of the local law enforcement. Their tolerance threshold is now decidedly low so don't push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a trip to Warsaw's pre-mier drunk tank (ul. Kolska 2/4), a chastening experi-ence which will set you back 250z for an up to 24 hour stay. In return for your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine (credit cards not accepted, of course).The other well-known ways tourists can cross cops is by jaywalking. If you are from a country which has no (or doesn't respect) jaywalking laws, you'll be surprised to see a crowd of people standing obediently at a crossing waiting for the lights to change. This peculiarity has extra e ect if you are aware of how little Poles respect the rules of the road in a vehicle, where it often feels like a survival of the ttest. The reason for the obedience of this particular rule is the fact that the local city police (Stra Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50-100z ne for crossing a road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100z ne when the walk' light is red. And don't think you are exempt by being a foreign visitor. You are subject to the law too and your non-residency means you will need to pay the ne on the spot.

RELIGIONFor over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism, ghting against the horrors of pagan inva-sions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in churches.The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the West can under-stand. Many Poles genuinely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe. Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholicism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may nd the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at rst, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to time and the droves that ock to mass.

FACTS & FIGURESTerritoryPoland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Ukraine (529km).

Longest RiverWarsaw is split by the river Vistula (Wisa). At 1,047km it is Polands longest river and ows into the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska).

Highest PointThe highest peak in Poland is Rysy (2,499 metres) found in the Tatra mountains in the south of Poland.

Population (2012)Poland: 38,533,299Warsaw: 1,715,517Krakw: 758,334d: 718,960Wrocaw: 631,188Pozna: 550,742Gdask: 460,427Katowice: 307,233

Local TimePoland is in the Central European (CET) time zone (GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Warsaw its 11:00 in Lon-don, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.

LANGUAGE SMARTSMany Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command of the English language. Many are also adept at other European languages with German being the most commonly spoken. Older Poles will ercely contest that they have forgotten the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a reasonable understanding.Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal, often resulting in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your ustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth your time in Warsaw and may even win you friends and admirers.On the downside, Polish is one of the most di cult lan-guages for native English speakers to learn. On the upside, unlike in English, words in Polish are spelled the way they are pronounced. This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent the same sounds as they do in English, below we have listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!

Basic Pronunciation sounds like on in the French bon sounds like en as in the French bien is an open o sound like oo in bootc like the ts in bitsj like the y in yeahw is pronounced like the English v like the w in win like the ny in canyoncz and like the ch in beachdz like the ds in bedsrz and like the su in treasuresz and like the sh in shipdrz like the g in Georger is always rolled

Polish Words & PhrasesYes Tak (Tahk)No Nie (Nyeh)Hi/Bye (informal) Cze (Cheshch) Hello/Good day (formal) Dzie dobry (Jen doh-bri) Good evening (formal) Dobry wieczr (Doh-bri vyeh-choor) Good-bye Do widzenia (Doh veet-zen-ya) Good Night Dobranoc (Doh-brah-noats)Please Prosz (Prosheh) Thank you Dzikuj (Jen-koo-yeh) Excuse me/Sorry Przepraszam (Psheh-prasham)

My name is... Mam na imi... (Mam nah ee-myeh)Im from England. Jestem z Anglii (Yehstem zanglee) Do you speak English? Czy mwisz po angielsku? (Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)I dont speak Polish. Nie mwi po polsku. (Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)I dont understand. Nie rozumiem. (Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)Two beers, please. Dwa piwa prosz. (Dvah peevah prosheh.)Cheers! Na zdrowie! (Nah zdrovyeh!)Where are the toilets? Gdzie s toalety? (Gdjeh sawn toe-letih) You are beautiful. Jeste pikna. (Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)I love you. Kocham ci. (Ko-hahm chuh.) Please take me home. Prosz zabierz mnie

do domu.(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh doh-moo.)

Call me! Zadzwo do mnie! (Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)

Airport Lotnisko (Lot-nees-ko)Train station Dworzec PKP (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)Bus station Dworzec PKS (Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)One ticket to Jeden bilet do (Yeh-den bee-let doh)

MARKET VALUESPrices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Market values as of March 21, 2014 based on 1 = 4.16z

McDonald's Big Mac 9.40 z 2.26

Snickers 1.69 z 0.41

0.5ltr vodka (shop) 23.99 z 5.77

0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.79 z 0.67

0.5ltr beer (bar) 9.00 z 2.16

Loaf of white bread 1.59 z 0.38

20 Marlboros 14.70 z 3.53

1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.86 z 1.41

Local transport ticket (1 journey) 4.40 z 1.06


History BasicsHistory BasicsEarly forti ed settlements are believed to have existed in what is now the district of Brodo as far back as the 9th century, and while historians struggle to conclusively agree as to exactly when Warsaw was founded most appear to accept that the rst recorded mention of the city can be traced to 1313. Things started looking up for the city in 1413, when the ruling

Dukes decided to shift the capital of Mazovia from Czersk to Warsaw. Over the next century it gathered importance as a trading point, and was incorporated into the Kingdom of Poland in 1526. The town was expanding in both status and stature, though nothing was to prepare it for the bombshell that arrived in 1569. The Union of Lublin amalgamated Po-land with Lithuania, and as such the decision was taken to centralize parliament and move it from Krakw to Warsaw. Twenty seven years later, in 1596, King Zygmunt III Vasa de-cided to follow suit and shifted his Royal Court north as well, thereby making Warsaw capital of this newly-formed com-monwealth.

Testing times lay ahead. Between 1665 and 1668 Warsaw was ransacked three times, and if it the natives thought that was bad you should have seen their faces in 1700; the Great Northern War kicked o when an anti-Swedish alliance com-prising of Russia, Poland and Denmark launched the open-ing attack. The Swedes werent having any of it, and by 1702 their counter-attack had landed them at the gates of Warsaw. Over the next few years Warsaw was passed back and forth like a bag of sweets, sustaining heavy economic and physi-cal damage in the process. The war, a right epic scrap if ever there was, drew to a close in 1721 and Warsaw was nally left to pick up the pieces and move forward.

The Collegium Nobilium, a posh boarding school for the landed classes, was opened in 1740, and this was promptly followed by Polands rst library seven years later. This age of enlightenment promised much for Poland, a fact not lost on her three neighbours: Prussia, Russia and Austria. Little Po-land was clearly getting too big for her boots, so the three acted swiftly by imposing the First Petition of Poland in 1772, a move which essentially robbed the country of a third of its territory and population. Nonetheless, her three bully-ing neighbours clearly hadnt counted on Stanisaw August Poniatowski, the countrys last king, and arguably her nest.

It was under his leadership the Constitution of May 3rd was rati ed in 1791. This landmark code was the rst of its kind in Europe (and only second in the world after the USA), with reforms focused on handing more power and freedom to the general populace. Poniatowski was hailed as almost visionary in his outlook, however his ideas once more stirred his neighbours into action. This time round both Prussia and Russia moved to weaken Poland in The Second Partition of Poland (1793), snatching away 308,000 sq/km of territory, and reducing her to just 223,000 sq/m.

Provoked by this latest aggression the Poles fought back launching The Peasant Uprising of 1794. Led by Ta-deusz Kociuszko the insurgents scored a notable victory at

Racawicka, but eventually superior numbers told and the rebellion ended in surrender. The following year Russia, Prus-sia and Austria joined together to carve what remained of Poland between them.

Napoleon o ered the capital brief respite, and when his armies marched eastwards in 1807 he created a semi-inde-pendent Duchy of Warsaw. His failings on the battle elds of Russia led to defeat, and within eight years Russian forces had pushed the Frenchman back and regained Warsaw as their own; Poland had e ectively been wiped o the map.

Discontent with Russian rule was to come to a boil twice in the following decades: rst in the form of the November Insurrection of 1831, and then again with the January Up-rising of 1863. Both rebellions were brutally crushed, and saw more patriots packed o to serve penance in Siberia. Strangely, however, it was these dark years that saw Warsaw blossom. Under the auspice of Russian-born Mayor Sokrates Starynkiewicz the city developed at lightning pace, and by the time of his death in 1902 the town had acquired a mod-ern sewage system, street-lighting, paved streets and over 2,500 newly planted trees.

Still, resentment over foreign rule continued to linger, and it was only the outbreak of World War One that prom-ised hope. The collapse of the Eastern Front saw the last Russian troops leave in 1915, though these were immedi-ately replaced with German uniforms. Only when Germany signed the armistice in 1918 was Poland nally freed from the shackles of occupation. Arriving overnight in a sealed wagon, Jsef Pisudski, a patriot who had been imprisoned in Magdeburg, reached Warsaw on November 11 to assume leadership of the nation. By the time of his death in 1935 this national hero witnessed the introduction of the zoty, a failed coup and the assassination of President Narutowicz. Even allowing for these, nothing came close to the defeat of the Red Army during the Polish-Soviet War of 1919-1921, a triumph which not just guaranteed Polands short-term future, but Europes.

The twenties and thirties saw Warsaw ourish into a con -dent, successful city, alas, we all know what was to come. Sep-tember 1 saw Nazi Germany start WWII with their attack on the Westerplatte Peninsula in north Poland. By morning Luftwa e squadrons were rebombing Warsaw, and in spite of dogged resistance the capital nally fell on September 30th.

The fate of the Jewish population, and the Warsaw Upris-ing, is documented in detail elsewhere in the guide, so fast forward instead to January 17, 1945. Liberation of sorts had arrived, unfortunately for the Poles it meant spending much of the following ve decades under Soviet hegemony. In the wave of Stalinist terror that followed businesses found themselves nationalized, and political and religious leaders imprisoned.

Stalin died in 1953, but his legacy didnt. The Warsaw Pact, a military treaty between eight communist states, was signed in 1955 the same year Stalins parting gift to the city the Palace of Culture was completed. A year on Pozan ex-ploded like a powder keg in what turned out to be the rst street demonstrations against communism. The communists reacted in time honoured fashion, with their sts, and the nal score stood at 76 dead (uno cial estimates suggest far, far more) and a city defeated.

In a bid to appease the people several hardliners were dismissed and Wadysaw Gomuka was appointed as Po-lands premier. Limited social reforms and a small-scale lifting of press censorship followed, and a political thaw set in. This veneer of social happiness was shattered in 1970 when new protests broke out, this time in Gdask. Forty four died when the army suppressed the demonstrations, and for a while things appeared to settle down. Edward Gierek came in to replace Gomuka as First Secretary, and he set about turning the country round. Living standards increased, and for a time Gierek carried the tag of miracle worker. He wasnt. Gierek had built a house of cards, propping up the Polish economy with half-mad policies based on acquiring mountains of for-eign debt. The oil crisis of 1973 saw the creditors come call-ing and by 1976 price increases were in the pipeline. A fresh batch of riots broke out across the nation, and military might was once more relied upon to bring the people to heel.

The public was starting to get restless, but their protests needed focus and direction. That came in 1978 when Karol Wojtya, born in Wadowice close to Krakw, was appointed Pope in 1978. Wojtya, who had adopted the name John Paul II, returned to Poland the following year, and his whirlwind tour of the country is seen by many as the pivotal moment when the nation gathered courage to defy the system. Do not be afraid, spoke the ponti to the masses, change the image of the land this land. It was a veiled message, but a clear one, and from there on the fuse was lit.

In the form of Pope John Paul II the Poles had found a spiri-tual direction, what was lacking was a physical one. That came in the surprising shape of Lech Wasa, an unemployed electri-cian with an extravagant moustache and a podgy look. Within the space of a second he went from no-one to someone and bulldozed Polish politics into the 21st century. The year was 1980 and workers in the Lenin Shipyards in Gdask were fuming at the dismissal of a female crane operator. Talk and promise of strike was rife, and the atmosphere heated. On the spur of the moment Wasa climbed a gate and addressed those below. In-advertently he had made himself the public face of Solidarno (Solidarity), a trade union that would prove the slingshot that felled communism. This time round the protestors had learned from their bloody mistakes and rather than confronting the tanks simply locked themselves in the shipyards.

Amazingly it was the government that backed down, on August 31 it signed an agreement meeting the workers demands. The rst peaceful victory over communism had been won.

This wasnt to last Solidarity continued to press for fur-ther reform, and with the Soviet Union looking likely to in-vade the Polish President General Jaruzelski declared Martial Law on December 13, 1981. Though Solidarity was o cially dissolved, and its leaders imprisoned, it continued to oper-ate underground. When Father Jerzy Popieluszko, Solidaritys chaplain, was abducted and murdered by the secret police over a million people attended his funeral.

Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy forced Jaruzelski into initiating talks with opposition gures in 1988, and the following year Solidarity was once again granted legal status. Soviet leader Gorbachev had made it clear he wouldnt intervene in Polish politics, and when Jaruzelski was pressured into holding partly free elections Solidarity swept

the board with Wasa leading from the front. The regime collapsed and in 1990 Wasa was elected the rst president of post-communist Poland. Shock capitalist tactics were used to rotate Poland into a free market economy, and while this left several losers the nation emerged stronger than be-fore. Acceptance into the European Union in 2004 was proof of this, and Polands rise illustrated by the decision to award it co-responsibility for the Euro 2012 Football Champion-ships. Today Poland, with Warsaw as its gurehead, stands as an exemplary member of the EU, and notably was the one European nation to avoid recession in the recent global crisis.

HISTORICAL TIMELINE1313: First written mention of Warsaw1413: The regional capital of Mazovia is moved from

Czersk to Warsaw1596: King Zygmunt III Vasa moves the Royal Court from

Krakw to Warsaw1665-1668: The old town comes repeatedly under

siege, only just about surviving1700: The Swedes invade Poland, capturing War-

saw two years later and installing Stanisaw Leszczyski as a puppet king in 1704.

1764: Stanisaw August Poniatowski is crowned King1772: Poland is partitioned for the rst time1791: The historic May 3 Constitution is signed, inadver-

tently prompting the second partition of Poland two years later

1795: Third Partition of Poland1807: A semi-independent Duchy of Warsaw is created

by Napoleon. Its dissolved eight years later fol-lowing Frances military disasters and Warsaw falls once more under Russian control.

1830: The November Uprising breaks out1863: One more anti-Russian rising breaks out, this one

know as the January Uprising1915: The Russians leave Warsaw in disarray but are im-

mediately replaced with Germans. Independence takes another three years

1920: The Red Army is defeated at the gates of Warsaw, saving post-war Europe from communism

1939: Nazi Germany invades Poland.1943: Jews remaining in the Ghetto rise against the Na-

zis. Their insurgency is crushed1944: The people of Warsaw launch the Warsaw Uprising,

but are defeated following 63 days of resistance1945: The Red Army liberates Warsaw but Poland is forced

to kowtow to Moscow for the next few decades1989: The communist regime crumbles2004: Poland enters the European Union2010: Poland is plunged into national mourning after a

plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski and all on board crashed while on its way to a memorial service in Katy.

2012: Poland successfully co-hosts the Euro 2012 football tournament with neighbouring Ukraine (though the Polish team didnt make it out of the group stage).


Culture & EventsCulture & Events

OPERA STAGESGREAT THEATRE - NATIONAL OPERA (TEATR WIELKI - OPERA NARODOWA)QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 1, tel. (+48) 22 692 02 08, www.teatrwielki.pl. Box offi ce open 09:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Tickets 28-160z.

PHILHARMONIC STAGESNATIONAL PHILHARMONIC (FILHARMONIA NARODOWA)QB-3, ul. Sienkiewicza 10, tel. (+48) 22 551 71 28, www.fi lharmonia.pl. Box offi ce open 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending on the repertoire. Tickets 25-250z.

THEATRE STAGESDRAMA THEATRE (TEATR DRAMATYCZNY)QB-4, Palace Of Culture, Pl. Defi lad 1, tel. (+48) 22 656 68 44, www.teatrdramatyczny.pl. Box offi ce open 12:00 - 19:00. Tickets 20-80z.

NATIONAL THEATRE (TEATR NARODOWY)QB-2, Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. (+48) 22 692 06 04, www.narodowy.pl. Box offi ce open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Sun depending on repertoire. Closed Mon. Tick-ets 40-90z.

THE JEWISH THEATRE (TEATR YDOWSKI IM. ESTERY RACHEL I IDY KAMISKICH)QF-2, Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, tel. (+48) 22 850 56 56, www.teatr-zydowski.art.pl. Box offi ce open od 11:00-14:00, 15:00-18:00; Sat 12:30 - 19:00, Sun 14:30 - 18:00. Tickets 50-80z.

CONCERTS10.04 THURSDAYBRUNO PELLETIERFrench-Canadian pop singer Bruno Pelletier was born in 1962 and spent much of his twenties singing in Montreal bars before releasing his debut self-titled album in 1992. Ten more albums followed, as did numeral musical roles, such as the lead in Dracula - Entre lamour et la mort. The musi-cian has racked up a whole bunch of Flix awards as well, and is currently the spokesperson for La Fondation qub-coise du cancer.QB-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defi lad 1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 105-245z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

17.04 THURSDAYKENNY GKenny G, with his smooth jazz and glorious hair, is com-ing to Congress Hall to play his greatest hits and/or songs from his newest album Namaste. One of the best-selling artists of our time, the Seattle-born saxophonist has sold

ART GALLERIESSTAIRS GALLERY (GALERIA SCHODY)QC-3, ul. Nowy wiat 39, tel. (+48) 22 828 89 43, www.galeriaschody.pl. Open 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.

ZACHTA - NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART (ZACHTA - NARODOWA GALERIA SZTUKI)QB-3, Pl. Maachowskiego 3, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 15/10z, Thu free.

CINEMASIMAXQul. Powsiska 31 (Sadyba), tel. (+48) 22 550 33 33, www.kinoimax.pl. Box offi ce open from 30 minutes before the fi rst showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 26-35z.

LUNAQF-4, ul. Marszakowska 28, tel. (+48) 22 621 78 28, www.kinoluna.pl. Box offi ce open depending on reper-toire. Tickets 8-24z.

MULTIKINO ZOTE TARASYAlso at Al. Ken 60 (Ursynw), Wola Park, ul. Grczewska 124 (Wola); Centrum Targwek, ul. Gbocka 15 (Targwek).QA-4, ul. Zota 59, tel. (+48) 22 462 81 10, www.multikino.pl. Box offi ce open from 09:00 to 15 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets 19-35z.

CULTURAL CENTRESJIDYSZ CULTURAL CENTREQE-1, ul. Andersa 15, tel. (+48) 22 620 47 33, www.jidyszland.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

MAZOVIA REGION CENTRE OF CULTURE AND ARTS (MAZOWIECKIE CENTRUM KULTURY I SZTUKI)QA-3, ul. Elektoralna 12, tel. (+48) 783 70 83 80, www.mckis.waw.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun depending on repertoire. Price depending on event.

UJAZDOWSKI CASTLE (MUSEUM OF MODERN ART/CSW) (CENTRUM SZTUKI WSPCZESNEJ ZAMEK UJAZDOWSKI)QG-4, ul. Jazdw 2, tel. (+48) 22 628 64 08, www.csw.art.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 12/6z, Thu free.

CULTURAL INSTITUTESBRITISH COUNCILQB-4, Al. Jerozolimskie 59, tel. (+48) 22 695 59 00, www.britishcouncil.pl. Open 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun.

Based on Opening Night by John Cassavetes

directed byGRZEGORZ JARZYNA

Premiere: 24-25.04.2014Preview: 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, 22, 23.04.2014

WWW.TRWARSZAWA.PL

Organizer

April 22-27, 2013 / Murnanw Cinema / Warsaw / 5 Andersa Street

10

TR WARSZAWA

TR Warszawa are a modern theatre that proudly boast openness to new ideas and cultivation of tradition. Over the past ten years, theyve managed to secure a fair amount of popularity in Poland, attracting directors like Grzegorz Jarzyna, Krystian Lupa, Krzysztof War-likowski, Ren Pollesch, and Kornel Mundruczo. Its their 14th year of operation, and in that time theyve hosted many visual arts and contemporary drama presenta-tions - most recently the play T.E.O.R.E.M.A.T., which was shown with English supertitles. They dont just stay put in Warsaw, either - the cast has performed in Edinburgh, Moscow, Berlin, Toronto, NYC, LA, Welling-ton, Hong Kong, and many places in between.QG-4, ul. Marszakowska 8, tel. (+48) 22 480 80 08, www.trwarszawa.pl. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 15:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00 and before the performance. Tickets 40-120z.


Culture & Eventsa staggering 75 million records worldwide since his solo ca-reer took o in the seventies.QB-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defi lad 1, www.goodmusic.com.pl. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 110-300z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

22.04 TUESDAYCUT COPYFree Your Mind with Cut Copy (Paste?), as the Australian electronic quartet leave their sunny homeland for Europes uncertain spring. These Grammy-nominated boys have been making music since 2001, but only rose to promi-nence after releasing their second album, the 2008 In Ghost Colors , which peaked at no. 1 on Australian charts.QC-4, Basen Club, ul. Konopnickiej 6. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 99-110z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl, Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00) and before the concert.

24.04 THURSDAYNIGHT IN CALISIAJoin Grammy award winners Wodek Pawlik, Randy Becker, and the Calisian Philharmonic Symphonic Orchestra as they perform - in full! - their celebrated album Night in Cali-sia, a 2012 work recorded in honor of the 1850th anniver-sary of the founding of Kalisz. Did we mention that Wodek Pawlik is the only Polish jazz artist to win the prestigious award? Worth a listen.QB-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defi lad 1, www.stx-jamboree.com. Concert starts at 22:00. Tickets 99-299z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

13.05 TUESDAYNIGEL KENNEDYThe British violin/viola virtuoso is coming to Warsaw this May, to the delight of many a classical music a cionado. The internationally-acclaimed and somewhat controversial musician is known not only for his renditions of the great-est violin concertos, but also his classical interpretations of music by Jimmy Hendrix and The Doors. He plays jazz as well, and has been know to dabble in Klezmer music with Krakw band Kroke. QF-5, Stodoa Club, ul. Batorego 10, www.stodola.pl. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 69-99z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

22.05 THURSDAYGORAN BREGOVI & THE WEDDING AND FUNERAL BANDWedding, funeral - such is the prose of life. And no one knows it like Goran Bregovis band. The brass ensemble (part of a 40-piece orchestra) have been performing with the Balkan rock n folk musician since 1998. The artist has Polish ties as well - he has collaborated with Kayah and Krzysztof Krawczyk and composed music for a whole bunch of lms.QB-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defi lad 1, www.stx-jamboree.com. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 99-299z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

JEWISH MOTIFS FESTIVAL

22.04 TUESDAY - 27.04 SUNDAY10TH JEWISH MOTIFS INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVALThis lm festival focuses the lens on the Jewish nation - its tradition, history, and identity, both past and present. Filmmakers will compete in three di erent categories: ction, documentary, and short/experimental, with over thirty lms total, including the Oscar-winning The Lady in Number 6. Though the bulk of the movies will be from Eastern Europe, entries range from the United States to Israel, and the festival has partnerships with similar lm showcases in Brighton, Vienna, and Stockholm. This years special guest is the celebrated Polish director An-drzej Wajda!QA-1, Muranw Cinema, ul. Gen. Andersa 5, www.jewishmotifs.org.pl. Full schedule available at www.jewishmotifs.org.pl. Admission free.

www.BodiesRevealed.pl

12.03-30.06

Instytut Chemii Przemysowej

ul. Anny GermanWarszawa

DISCOVER MYSTERY OF HUMAN BODY

BODIES REVEALED

12.03 WEDNESDAY - 30.06 MONDAYBODIES REVEALEDAn exhibition of polymer injected human cadavers and body parts may not be everyones idea of a fun day out but this hugely popular and world travelled exhibition presents the human body in all its skinless wonder. Ed-ucational, thought provoking and strangely beautiful it may be but its also well worth taking a peek at some of the online controversies regarding the dubious sourc-ing of bodies from China and the Catholic Churchs view that the exhibition disrespects the dead. In case you need convincing that smoking and booze are bad for you, this show can help.QIndustrial Chemistry Re-search Institute, ul. Anny German 12 (oliborz), tel. (+48) 501 30 30 21, www.bodiesrevealed.pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before clos-ing. Tickets 35-60z. Family ticket 125-145z.


Culture & Events31.05 SATURDAYPAT METHENY UNITY GROUPJazz legend Pat Metheny (winner of approximately a mil-lion Grammys) is coming to Warsaw with his newly formed Unity Group, an extension of the Unity Band project started in 2012 with drummer Antonio Snchez, bassist Ben Wil-liams, and saxophone player Chris Potter. No Pat Metheny - Anna Maria Jopek duo this time, sadly.QB-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defi lad 1, www.go-ahead.pl. Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 100-180z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

FESTIVALS06.04 SUNDAY - 18.04 FRIDAY18TH LUDWIG VAN BEETHOVEN EASTER FESTIVALTime for some classical music appreciation: the Ludwig van Beethoven Society has been organising Easter Fes-tivals aiming to popularise the great composers music since 1997. This years edition features thirteen days of concerts by international musicians at locations including the National Philharmonic and the Royal Castle.QEvent takes place in various locations, www.beethoven.org.pl. Full schedule available at www.beethoven.org.pl. Tickets 30-250z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

SPORT13.04 SUNDAYORLEN WARSAW MARATHONLace up and put your stamina to the test! The Orlen War-saw Marathon will take you through the citys main streets in a sports event that will have you remembering your Poland trip for a long, long time (for better or for worse). Its April, so the temperatures should be just right!QH-2, National Stadium, ul. Wybrzee Szczeciskie, www.orlenmarathon.pl. Event starts at 09:30. Registration fee 139z.

THEATRE11.04 FRIDAYGAELFORCE DANCEGaelforce are the Ferrari of Irish dance - yup, thats right: fast, furious, amingly red. Unlike the other river-dancing ensembles, which are - presumably - Toyotas, Hummers, and the occasional Lada or Polish Fiat, this troupe does everything 100% live. Also of note, their original choreog-rapher and star was the famed James Devine, a Guinness World Record holder for tap-dancing speed, at a humming-bird-like 38 taps per second.QB-4, Congress Hall, Pl. Defi -lad 1, www.makroconcert.com/pl. Performances start at 17:30 and 20:00. Tickets 99-250z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik (ul. Zota 59, B-3; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00).

WARSAW CHAMBER OPERAWARSAW CHAMBER OPERA (WARSZAWSKA OPERA KAMERALNA)The Warsaw Chamber Opera was founded in 1961 by Stefan Sutkowski, who has served as its Managing and Artistic Director ever since. The companys inaugural production, performed on the 4th September 1961, was Pergolesis La Serva Padrona. Since October 1986 the Opera has performed at its own theatre, a listed building dating from 1775 whose audience contributes to the acoustic sound created. The repertoire of the Warsaw Chamber Opera spans a wide variety of musical styles and genres: from medi-eval mystery plays to the operas of the Baroque and Classical periods, 18th century pantomimes, the operas by Rossini and Donizetti, as well as works by contem-porary composers.The Warsaw Chamber Opera ensembles also give regular concerts featuring chamber, oratorio, and sym-phonic music of various epochs. In 1984 the Warsaw Chamber Opera established the Research and Docu-mentation Centre of Early Polish Music. It deals with the research, publication, performance and recording of newly-discovered works by Polish composers.The music of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart has long oc-cupied a prominent place in the companys repertoire. The Warsaw Chamber Opera is the only company in the world to have Mozarts entire operatic output in its permanent repertoire and this unprecedented achieve-ment has won the Warsaw company-wide internation-al recognition. In addition to this the Warsaw Chamber Opera has also organized the 4th Claudio Monteverdi Festival, The Celebrations to Mark 400 Years of Opera as a Genre, and An Ode to Europe Festival.New projects launched in 2013 include Friday concerts at the Royal azienki Museum, Wednesday concerts at the Dominican Church, the educational cycles Family Music Matinees and Opera Lovers Box, the Youth The-atre, and the Marionette Theatre.QA-1, Al. Solidarnoci 76b, tel. (+48) 22 625 75 10, www.operakameralna.pl. Box offi ce open 11:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 3 hours be-fore the spectacle. Closed Mon. Tickets 30-130z.

05.04 SATURDAY, 06.04 SUNDAY, 18.05 SUNDAYIN THE FAIRYLAND OF THE MAGIC FLUTEGive your children a proper introduction to the beauty and wonder that is classical music by taking them to this age-appropriate rendition of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozarts The Magic Flute. The show is aimed at kids sev-en and up and will be performed in Polish - but the mu-sic breaks all language barriers, does it not?QA-1, War-saw Chamber Opera, Al. Solidarnoci 76b, tel. (+48) 22 625 75 10, www.operakameralna.pl. Performance starts at 11:00. Tickets 30z. Available at Warsaw Chamber Opera box offi ce (open 11:00 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 3 hours before the performance. Closed Mon).


RestaurantsRestaurants

AFRICAN CAF BAOBABA million miles away from its previous incarnation as Sax - the legendary down at heel haunt of poet Agnieszka Osiecka, this venue is now a Senegalese bar and restau-rant. Run by former basketballer and champion cocktail mixer, Aziz, its a multi-cultural wonderland where youre sure to nd someone who speaks your language. The bar is decorated in rich woody colours, some nice large scale photos from Senegal and piles of books about faraway places. On Thursdays a local French chap hosts board game nights, and if youre really lucky youll be here for one of their splendid and impromptu outdoor African music concerts. The Senegalese menu isnt half as scary as food cowards may think, with all the meat and sh dishes well worth trying.QH-3, ul. Francuska 31, tel. (+48) 22 617 40 57, www.cafebaobab.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (28z). TA6GBSW

AMERICAN BURGER KITCHENThis seemingly straight forward American diner has an al-most more french bistro vibe. The design is casual, cool and lived-in and the hip, buzzy sta give you the impression they really believe in what they are doing. Only the nest Angus and Hereford eco-raised beef is used for the burgers (aged for 16 days!) and the unique brioche style buns are brilliant. Even the fries are exemplary as they are hand cut daily and fried in 100% vegetable fat. The playful and excit-ing experimentation in the kitchen means that new ideas are regularly added or subtracted from the menu. Try the gloopy shakes (banana and nutella!) and dont miss their smart breakfasts and sophisticated Sunday brunch.QB-4, ul. Widok 8, tel. (+48) 22 464 82 84, www.burgerkitchen.pl. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Fri 08:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (20-59z). TA6UGSW

HARD ROCK CAFEIs there anything more American than sinking your teeth into a 10oz burger stacked with cheddar and bacon while

Warsaws come a long way fast, and nowhere is the urban vibrancy more apparent than in the citys progressive cu-linary scene. Today one can nd quality dining experiences from most corners of the world, though the predominance of Italian trattorias, sushi bars and designer burger joints never ceases to amaze us. As the Polish palate is de-veloping, so too is the service industry, though gru , ditzy, or plain incompetent service is still far too common. As re-gards to tipping, 10% is standard (easy math!), if a decent enough job is done.While our rigorously researched opening hours would seem self-explanatory, be aware that venues will close their doors if business is slow, and some restobars employ dif-ferent sets of hours for bar and kitchen - the times we list in such cases are for the kitchen, and the prices we list in brackets denote the cost of the cheapest and most ex-pensive main course on the menu.Below is a selection of recommendations depending what you are looking for:

BUSINESSRestauracja Rana is an experienced local o ering that will impress the client and give you room to talk shop, while Butchery and Wine recently won accolades as the citys top restaurant. 99 Restaurant & Bar also continues its reign as the place of choice for many an ex-pat business meeting.

CHEAPThe many bar mleczny (milk bar) canteens are a sadly declining legacy of the communist past. Theyre a unique Polish experience, but dont expect culinary miracles. Do

expect culinary miracles at Kaskrut though - the food looks a million dollars while strictly adhering to a nothing over 29zl policy.

COUPLESFor a romantic and elegant night out Halka ticks all the right boxes, while those looking for somewhere with a more casually stylish atmosphere should try out the award winning and groundbreaking Atelier Amaro. This is Po-lands only Michelen starred restaurant so expect to pay a little more for that unforgettable dinner.

KIDSHard Rock Cafe is always going to be a favourite and they do know how to make your special ones feel like Miley or Justin. Credit also goes to the childrens menu at Kuchnia Funkcjonalna, which treats the wee ones like mini-mas-terchefs.

LADSLaunch an attack on the pies, sh & chips and burgers at Legends while downing pints of Spit re Ale and watching the footie, or head down to the Old Town via BrowArmia where the menu is perfectly matched to the liquid gold from the on-site microbrewery.

POLSKIEat Commie style in Obera Pod Czerwonym Wieprzem, or for a pre-revolutionary and elegant take on Polish cui-sine Dom Polski a class act thats hard to beat. For a full-on rustic Polish experience in the big city, the rustic style of Zapieceks pierogie specialties is a good choice.

SYMBOL KEY

P Air conditioning T Child-friendly

G No smoking A Credit cards accepted

6 Animal friendly Y Tourist Card accepted

B Outside seating U Facilities for the disabled

S Take away X Smoking room available

V Home delivery E Live music

I Fireplace W Wi- connection

J Old Town location


Restaurants Restaurantsstaring at the jacket worn by Jimi Hendrix on the cover of Are You Experienced? The Hard Rock Cafe has based a busi-ness around the concept of unrivalled burgers and impres-sive memorabilia, and Warsaws chapter is no di erent. The two-story venue features a wall made of 675 guitars and menu items like hefty nachos and barbecue ribs. The dark basement bar churns out heaping drinks that look like they require two straws. Even the bathrooms are painfully cool, labelled Guns for him and Roses for her. Dont miss the weekday main+side+drink lunch special from 12-4pm for 29z.QB-4, ul. Zota 59 (Zote Tarasy), tel. (+48) 22 222 07 00, www.hardrockcafe.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (33-115z). PTA6UGBSW

SOMEPLACE ELSESPE has been serving up some of the best burgers in Warsaw for as long as we can remember, and a recent visit shows little has changed: the Orient Express burger is a marriage of lamb and roast beef doused in hallumi cheese and Medi-terranean veggies - epic and creative. The large, open bar is capable of mixing up anything you can think of, including a spicy bloody Mary to accompany the Sheratons brunch, which is served here on Sunday. Recommended particularly if you are sleeping upstairs so you wont have far to haul your happily fed self.QC-4, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Warsaw Ho-tel), tel. (+48) 22 450 67 10, www.warszawa.someplace-else.pl. Open 12:00 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (38-110z). PTAUEGSW

ARGENTINEAN HOA BY MONDOVINOAn Argentinean steakhouse and seafood restaurant with a classy and sensual interior; bull ght reds, polished black xtures, stripped brickwork and bright blue paintwork blend together under the low lighting to create a nice at-mosphere of old world Buenos Aires with a modern kick. Though the chef is a native Argentine, Hoa only uses Pol-ish beef, sourced from Limousin and Angus stock, which is hung and cured in their own dry ageing room for a mini-mum of 12 days. Although youll pay a hefty 86z for the premium sirloin steak it will certainly be one of the nest, softest, melt in the mouth hunks of meat money can buy in this part of the world. It also comes with pomme frites and a side salad. You wont fail to notice the encyclopaedic wine list, but note that their stellar bar also includes 50 kinds of whisky.QC-4, ul. Hoa 25A, tel. (+48) 515 03 70 01, www.hoza.warszawa.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. (20-170z). PTAXSW

NEW SALTOWinner of the 2013 edition of Polands Top Chef competi-tion, Argentinian born Martin Gimenez Castro now heads his own signature restaurant in the citys glamorous Art Deco Hotel Rialto. Enter via a separate door on ul. Emilii Plater and prepare to be dazzled by the South American modern style cuisine on o er. The sh and seafood dishes include corvina, one of the most highly prized sh in South

the editorkindly asked us

not to aDD photoSof our food,

as last time we did,people ATE the whole page...

...YES. ITS THAT GOOD.

+48 22 464 82 84 | Widok 8, 00-023 Warszawawww.burgerkitchen.pl

HEALTHY EATINGWhen it comes to trends, Poland is often late to adopt what other countries would now consider routine. So it goes with the green, eco-friendly fad, which has reached a fevered pitch in many major cities while War-saw is just beginning to embrace the idea. A group of new (and already popular) venues are using their green status as a major lure for customers in e ort we expect will soon be duplicated all over the city.

CAF 6/12A prominent Warsaw caf, and one popular with ad execs and scenesters. Making good use of the high ceil-ings and socialist granite touches 6/12 features trance like music and subdued lighting, adding a chilled out element to this long-living establishment. However, this place is so much more than a caf, and a thumb through the menu con rms so; the smoothies, and theres mil-lions to choose from, are hands down the best in the city, while food choices include a range of light gourmet bites youd imagine a Kate Moss character stabbing her fork at.QC-4, ul. urawia 6/12, tel. (+48) 22 622 53 33, www.612.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (20-65z). PTA6GBSW

KLUBOKAWIARNIA RESORTWhat looks like a normal caf at rst glance is anything but: old bathtubs have been turned into couches, metal shopping carts now serve as seats, and the bar is made from colourful stacks of old books (its worth a visit to their Facebook page to see how they created this unique bar). Even cardboard tubes have been reinvent-ed as chairs. While the dcor is decidedly reused, the food and drinks are true originals. Cocktails are made with fresh fruit, while stomachs can be lined with what-ver tasty concoctions the chef comes up with on a reg-ular basis. Fortunately, you can drink your bottled beer or Argentine cola without any guilt since Resort makes recycling a part of its mission.QB-2, ul. Bielaska 1, tel. (+48) 507 17 99 35. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. (10-12z). PA6BXSW

PESTKA ORGANIC BISTROAn oasis of healthy eating in a simple, modern and bright space. Pestka specialises in organic, bio and traditionally produced Polish and European products. All certi ed ecological dishes are marked BIO on the menu with other ingredients sourced from small-scale operations strictly adhering to traditional production methods. White sugars, monosodium glutamate, arti- cial avour enhancers and genetically modi ed scary things are strictly o limits. Even the sh is checked for high metal content. Judging by the popularity of Pest-ka, it really looks like their colourful and healthy dishes are proving to be a big hit in town.QC-4, ul. Bracka 6/8, tel. (+48) 691 70 69 00, www.organicbistro-pestka.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. (5-31z). PA6UGSW


Restaurants RestaurantsAmerica, and fresh oysters every Thursday. Mr. Gimenez Castros encyclopaedic knowledge of the proper hanging and preparation of beef can be experienced by diving into the separate weekend steak menu. They also o er an ex-tensive breakfast menu daily from 06:30 till 10:30.QF-4, ul. Wilcza 73 (entrance from ul. Emilii Plater ), tel. (+48) 22 584 87 71, www.saltorestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:30. (45-96z). PTAUGSW

BRITISH LEGENDS BRITISH BAR & RESTAURANTLegends is settling gently into its rhythm as the thinking (and eating) mans football watching venue of choice. Basi-cally has two things going

warsaw

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