water dispersible uva filter - 선진뷰티사이언스(주) · pdf file ·...
TRANSCRIPT
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 1
Hybrid AB
Core: Chemical UV Filters(30%) For UV protection
Shell: PMMA Bead(70%) 1) For Sensorial Modification 2) Oil soluble UV filters can be used into water phase
Hybrid AB Composition PMMA 70% Avobenzone* 30% Particle Size 5 um UVA Protection
Hybrid S Composition PMMA 70% BEMT** 30% Particle Size 5 um UVA+UVB
Hybrid EHT Composition PMMA 70% EHT*** 30% Particle Size 5 um UVB Protection
*Avobenzone: Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM)
**BEMT: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
***EHT: Ethyl Hexyl Triazone
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 2
The amount of BMDBM decreases
weakening of the UVA protection
(3) Poor Compatibility
(2) Poor Photo-stablility
Aluminum oxide is one of the most
common coating material for TiO2.
BMDBM forms a complex with Al3+
salts from TiO2 coatings
Avobenzone degrades quickly in the sun. Researchers have reported a
36% reduction in UVA absorption by avobenzone after only 15 minutes of
exposure. In vitro studies have shown a 50% loss in UVA blockage for
different sunscreen formulations, confirming the photodegradation of
avobenzone.
(4) Crystallization
BMDBM is susceptible to
crystallization that results in loss of
product aesthetics, sun protection,
appearance, stability
Dimethicone 0 3
Cyclomethicone 0 50
Mineral oil 1 50
Isostearyl Isosterate 3 50
Octylpalmitate 3 50
Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 7 50
Isopropyl Myristate 9 50
PG/Dicaprate/Dicaprylate 5 50
C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate 11 50
Octyldodecanol 13 50
Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate 26 50
(1) Poor Solubility
BMDBM(=Avobenzone) is a great UVA filter but has Problems too
INCI Name Trade Name USA Japan EU Australia
BMDBM Parsol 1789 3 10 5 5
However, BMDBM is globally approved
Problems
Avobenzone • INCI: Butyl Methoxy
dibenzoylmethane(BMDBM)
• Oil soluble UVA filter
• Avobenzone was patented in
1973 and was approved in
the EU in 1978. It was
approved by the FDA in 1988.
Its use is approved
worldwide
• Avobenzone is sensitive to
the properties of the solvent,
being relatively stable in
polar protic solvents and
unstable in nonpolar
environments
6 Big Things about Hybrid AB
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Ultra Light Texture
4. Improved photo-stability
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Hybrid AB Composition PMMA 70% Avobenzone* 30% Particle Size 5 um UVA Protection
Big Thing #1
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Ultra Light Texture
4. Improved photo-stability
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 5
UVA filter in water phase
Most UV filters are either oils or need to be dissolved in polar emollients.
The results are highly loaded oil phases, which lead to the most common limitations in
Sun Care formulations
- Reduced cosmetic elegance
- Lower flexibility to modify the sensory properties of formulations
- Suboptimal performance due to the use of filters mainly in one formulation phase
Hybrid PMMA, water dispersible, can be incorporated in the water phase
The use of Hybrid PMMA allows a balanced incorporation of UV filters in the water
and oil phase. Therefore, a more homogeneous distribution of the UV filters on
skin can be achieved which often result in a boosting effect
Through incorporation into water phase, Hybrid PMMA offers increased
formulation flexibility. Lower UV filter concentration is needed in the oil phase to
achieve highest contribution to SPF and UVA-PF
Hybrid PMMA Bead
Big Thing #2
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Ultra Light Texture
4. Improved photo-stability
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 7
PA+++ system
Product % needed for PA+++
Approval Status (max%)
Remark
EU JP US AUS
DHHB* 4% 10 10 - 10 Not approved in US Expensive
BEMT** 4% 10 3 - 10 Not approved in US Expensive
Avobenzone BMDBM
3.5% 5 10 3 5 Globally approved
Zinc Oxide (40nm)
17%
25
100
25
20
<100nm ZnO is not listed as UV Filter in EU
*DHHB Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate **BEMT bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine
To achieve PA+++,
Avobenzone 3.5% in oil
phase Possible option?
W/Si
Not possible As avobenzone is not soluble to silicone oils, usage of even
small amount of avobenzone together with silicone oils causes sever formula instability
O/W
Not recommended to put 3.5% of Avobenzone
into internal oil phase as it greatly restricts formulation freedom in oil phase
W/O Putting 3.5% in external oil phase is possible… Concerns about photostability & solubility of Avobenzone
requires use of Octocrylene and other heavy oils So the feel is very oily and unpleasant
Difficult to use Avobenzone
3.5% in oil phase.
The reasons are…
So…Hybrid AB in water phase!
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 9
Global PA+++ solution
O/W #1-1 #1-2 #2-1 #2-2 #3-1 #3-2 #4-1 #4-2
Oil Phase
BMDBM (=avobenzone)
3 1.2 3 1.2 1.7 3.5 - -
Octocrylene 1 1 1 1.0 1.0 1 - -
benzophenone-3 - - 3 3 - - - -
BEMT 4 5
Water Phase
HYBRID AB - 6 - 6 6 - - -
Amount of BMDBM
3 3
=1.2+6%*30%
3 3
=1.2+6%*30%
3.5 =1.7+6%*
30%
3.5 - -
In vivo PFA 7.0 7.0 7.2 8.0 8.0 8.0 8.0 9.2
Recommendation from SUNJIN
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 11
Chemical Filter Only SPF50 PA+++
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 12
PA+++ solution for USA
Max approval % of avobenzone in USA is 3% as compared to 5% or more in other countries From the formula right, BMDBM 1.2% + Hybrid AB 6% = 1.2% + 6%*30% = 1.2% + 1.8% = 3.0% BMDBM 3% is not enough to achieve PA+++ So that’s why BPS-3 is used to achieve PA+++ No mineral filters used to meet FDA regulation
Big Thing #3
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Ultra Light Texture
4. Improved photo-stability
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 14
3. Ultra Light Texture
5um PMMA Bead With BMDBM Hybrid AB is Spherical. You can feel only
external PMMA Bead
Ultra Light Texture No need to use emollients to solubilize BMDBM
Good Spread & Feel due to silica shell
Dimethicone 0 3
Cyclomethicone 0 50
Mineral oil 1 50
Isostearyl Isosterate 3 50
Octylpalmitate 3 50
Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride 7 50
Isopropyl Myristate 9 50
PG/Dicaprate/Dicaprylate 5 50
C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate 11 50
Octyldodecanol 13 50
Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate 26 50
Solubility ratio
Most chemical filters are very oily and leave behind an unpleasant,
sometimes sticky feel on the skin
Hybrid PMMA has the excellent skin feel of PMMA bead which is
frequently used as a texture additive, and therefore lend the formula
a soft-touch effect
Big Thing #4
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Ultra Light Texture
4. Improved photo-stability
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 16
Theoretical Explanation
Photo-degradation of Avobenzone
can be blocked as Avobenzone is
immobilized or located inside solid
PMMA matrix where avobenzone is
segregated or protected from other
UV filters or any other kinds of
potentially reactive chemicals
Thus Hybrid PMMA system is very
novel and innovative way to improve
photo-stability of avobenzone
5um PMMA Bead With BMDBM
‘Hybrid PMMA bead containing chemical Sunscreen filters’ Sung-HO Lee, SUNJIN Chemical IFSCC 2008
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 17
Photo-stability Test protocol
Proposed protocol for determination of photostability Part I: cosmetic UV filters
Colipa Method
PMMA Plate 5cm2
Layer 1.3mg/cm2
30min drying
Analsis of solution: HPLC
Irradiation 10MED
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 18
Photostability Test Result
3.0 2.95
10 MED
3.0
2.1 10 MED
3.0
2.7
10 MED
3.0 2.95
10 MED
Hybrid AB 10% BMDBM 0% OMC 7.5% OS 5% OC 0% BEMT 0% Initial Net BMDBM = 3% Photo-stable
Hybrid AB 0% BMDBM 3% OMC 7.5% OS 5% OC 0% BEMT 0% Initial Net BMDBM = 3%
Hybrid AB 0% BMDBM 3% OMC 7.5% OS 5% OC 2.4% BEMT 0% Initial Net BMDBM = 3%
Hybrid AB 0% BMDBM 0% OMC 7.5% OS 5% OC 0% BEMT 3% Initial Net BMDBM = 0% Net BEMT = 3% Photo-stable
Big Thing #5
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Improved photo-stability
4. Ultra Light Texture
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 20
Minimized Skin Irritancy
#1 #2 #3 #4 #5 #6 #7 #8 #9
Distilled Water 10.0 - - - - - - - -
Isohexadecane - 10.0 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00
SUNPMMA-S - - 1.00 - - - 0.62 0.62 0.62
OMC - - - 1.00 - - 0.38 - 0.31
Avobenzone - - - - 1.00 - - 0.38 0.07
Hybrid ABOMC - - - - - 1.00 - - -
Irritation Score 0 1 2 5 3 1 3 2 3
#11 #12 #13 #14 #15 #16 #7 #8 #9
Distilled Water 10.0
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Alkyl Benzoate -
10.0
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
9.00
SUNPMMA-S -
-
1.00
-
-
-
0.62
0.62
0.62
OMC -
-
-
1.00
-
-
0.38
-
0.31
Avobenzone -
-
-
-
1.00
-
-
0.38
0.07
Hybrid ABOMC -
-
-
-
-
1.00
-
-
-
Irritation Score 0 0 0 3 0 0 0 3 4
Sample size: 5 subjects(Korean) Study Design: Patch test Application time: 72hr Dosage: 25㎕
Dermal response: 0 = No evidence of irritation
1 = Minimal erythema,
2 = Readily visible erythema,
3 = Erythema and papules
4 = Definite edema
5 = Erythema, edema, and papules
6 = Vesicular eruption
7 = strong reaction spreading
“The 500-Da rule for skin
penetration is: 1)virtually all common
contact allergens are under 500-Da, larger
molecules are not known as contact
sensitizers…they can not penetrate and thus
cannot act as allergens in man” Avobenzone Mw: 310.4
OMC Mw: 290
Octocrylene Mw: 361
Minimized Skin Irritation
Test Condition:
Test Results
The encapsulation of UV filters
inside PMMA bead reduces
dermal uptake, thereby reducing
the potential for irritation
Big Thing #6
1. Water dispersible UVA filter
2. Global PA+++ solution
3. Improved photo-stability
4. Ultra Light Texture
5. Minimized Skin Irritancy
6. Novel formula
Copyright © 2014 by SUNJIN Chemical Co. LTD ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 22
Example 1: Mousse Foundation with UVA protection
22
No. Trade Name INCI %
A
1 SUNTITAN-AS Titanium dioxide & Triethoxycaprylyl silane
7.00
2 SUNSERI-AS Sericite & Triethoxy caprylyl silane 5.00
3 SUNMICA-AS Mica & Triethoxycaprylyl silane 2.00
4 SUNSIL-130HSC Silica & Methicone 5.00
5 SUNSIL Tin50 Silica & Titanium dioxide 3.50
6 Hybrid Talc(DM) Talc & MBBT & Dimethicone 5.00
7 Hybrid AB PMMA & Avobenzone 5.00
8 SUNIOR-AS Iron oxide Red & Triethoxycaprylyl silane
0.42
9 SUNIOY-AS Iron oxide Yellow & Triethoxycaprylyl silane
0.84
10 SUNIOB-AS Iron oxide Black & Triethoxycaprylyl silane
0.05
B
11 SALACOS 99 Isononyl isononanoate 10.00
12 DC200-10CS Dimethicone 5.00
13 SQUALANE Squalane 3.00
14 IPP Isopropyl Palmitate 2.00
15 L.P Liquid Paraffin 6.00
16 NOMKORT HKG Glyceryl Behenate / Elcosadioate 4.00
17 JOJOBA OIL Jojoba oil 1.00
18 VIT.E ACETATE Tocopheryl Acetate 0.20
19 PARSOL MCX Ethylhexyl Methxycinnamate 2.00
20 GRAPE SEED OIL Grape Seed Oil 3.00
C 21 KSG 16 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Cross Polymer
30.00
D 22 FRAGRANCE FRAGRANCE 0.08
SJF-0806-Mousse Foundation-ver2.0
Have you ever seen any
mousse foundation with
UV protection property? Difficult to see in the market, right?
Most chemical UV filters are
not very silicone-compatible.
How to incorporate silicone-
incompatible UV filters into
silicone phase?
You can incorporate Hybrid PMMA into silicone gel phase very easily by simple mixing
Evaluation
SPF 50
PA ++(5.0)
SPF/UVA
Critical Wavelength
White Index
Sensory Index