Weber 32/36DGAV Idle jet: DARA, DATRA, DFAV, DFD, DFI, DFM, DFTA, DFV, DGAS, DHSA, DHTA, DIC, DICA, DIR, DMSA, and IDA (3-barrel)

Emulsion tubes:ADFA, DARA, DCN, DCOF, DFAV, DFD, DFI, DFM, DGAS, DHSA, DIC, DICA, DIR, DLED, DMSA, ICA, ICF, ICH, ICT, IDA (3-barrel) carburetors. Here's what I have on emulsion tube tuning for 61440 Tubes(DFAV, DGAV, IDA):

Richer or leaner fuel curves are achieved by altering the diameters of the tube itself(to establish the volume of fuel in the well), its internal bore and the arrangement of radial holes drilled into it. The initiation of main metering is determined by the position and number of holes in the top portion of the tube. This is the primaryreason the float level is such a critical item on Webers; if the float level is low, the engine will run lean until the airflow is sufficient to draw fuel from the well around the tube. The reverse is true for too high a float level.

Commonly used: F2, F3, F11Leaner top end: F8, F16, F20Leaner low end and throttle response: F33, F34Richer low end and throttle response: F5, F7, F21Richer throttle response, no change in top end mixture: F25

Take that with a grain of salt...they don't even list the F50/F66...so where that is in reference, I can't say.

Emulsion Tube fits The Weber 40 - 46 IDA (3V) ADFA, DARA, DCN, DCOF, DFAV, DFEV, DFD, DFI, DFM, DGV, DGAV, DGAV, DHSA, DIC, DIR, DLED, DMSA, ICA, ICH, ICT carburetors. Fits Weber types

ADCADFADFAADHAADLADLAADLDADSADSDDACDARDARADATADCNDFADFAVDFCDFEDFMDFIDFVDGARDGASDGAVDGFDGMSDGSDGVDHSDHSADHTADICDICADIRDMDMADMSDMSADPSIBA

IBFIBPIBSAIBSHICBICEVICFICHICPICRIDAPIDTIMBIMPETLTLATLCTLDATLDETLDMTLDRTLFTLMTLPAll 3 barrel carburettors

Main jets:• ADC, ADF, ADFA, ADHA, ADL, ADLA, ADLD, ADS, ADSD • DAC, DAR, DARA, DATA • DCB, DCD, DCHE, DCOF, DCN, DCZ • DFA, DFAV, DFC, DFE, DFM, DFI, DFV

• DGAR, DGAS, DGAV, DGF, DGMS, DGS, DGV • DHS, DHSA, DHTA • DIC, DIR, DM, DMA, DMS, DMSA, DPS • IBA, IBF, IBP, IBSA, IBSH,ICB, ICEV, ICF, ICH, ICP, ICR • IDAP, IDT, IMB, IMPE • TL, TLA, TLC, TLDA, TLDE, TLDM, TLDR, TLF, TLM, TLP • 3 Barrel carburettors.

Air Corrector jets:

• ADC, ADF, ADFA, ADHA, ADL, ADS, ADSD • DAC, DAR, DARA • DCN, DCOF • DFAV, DFC, DFE, DFD, DFM, DFI

• DGAV, DGF, DGS, DGV • DHSA • DIC, DICA, DIR, DMSA, DPS • IBA, IBP, IBSA ICH, ICT • IMB, OC • TLDA, TLDE, TLDM • 3 Barrel carburettors.

Kit revisie:

Kit complet 92.11137.05 comprenant flotteur / pointeau / joint de dessus de cuve / membrane de starter auto / vis et goupille pour *32/36 DGAV1D1 sur Taunus et cortina 1600 TM/TA ; *32/36 DGAV 1B-01B sur taunus et cortina 1600 GT ; *32/36 DGAV 4D1 sur taunus/cortina/granada 2000 TA ;

*32/36 DGAV 3B1 et 3B2 sur Taunus /cortina 2000

Carfil 32 IRM

Difuzor principal:32 IRM-SA – 27 (motor 102.00) 32 IRM-2AM – 27 (motor 102.00) 32 IRM-2C – 17 (motor 102.08)32 IRM-2E – 27 (motor 102.08) 32 IRM - 25,532 IRM-A - 25,532 IRM-A5 - 15,5

Centrator amestec:Toate modelele mai putin 32 IRM-2C au 3,532 IRM-2C – 2,5 motor 102.08:

Jiclor principal:32 IRM-SA – 155 (motor 102.00) 32 IRM-2AM – 140 (motor 102.00) 32 IRM-2C – 148 (motor 102.08)32 IRM-2E – 145 (motor 102.08)32 IRM - 14532 IRM-A - 13532 IRM-A5 - 140

Jiclor frinare aer:32 IRM-SA – 140 (motor 102.00) 32 IRM-2AM – 145 (motor 102.00) 32 IRM-2C – 140 (motor 102.08) 32 IRM-2E – 140 (motor 102.08)32 IRM - 15532 IRM-A - 17032 IRM-A5 - 170

Tub emulsor;

Toate modelele mai putin 32 IRM-A au F2032 IRM-A - E6

Ajutaj descarcare pompa repriza:Toate modelele - 45

Jiclor mers gol:

Toate modelele - 52

Ac - supapa:Toate modelele - 1,5

Plutitor:Toate modelele mai putin 32 IRM au 732 IRM - 6.

Dacia 1400: 32 IRM 2AM

Tuning a R12

by Chris B.C. Angelo

Tuning a R12 may be a little difficult. If you can find parts,a little easier. Main points are the engine,thesuspension and the brakes.

Let's start with the engine.The R12 production model is equipped with the 73x77 1289cm3 engine.Increasing the power,acceleration and torque can be done by simply tuning it,or replacing the pistons,cylinders,crankshaft,etc.,with the 76x77 1397 cm3 of the R5(the engine block must be also replaced,or adjusted to fit the 76mm bore). (The 1565 77x84 Gordini engine also fits). The camshaft can be replaced with R15TL's (62/22 degrees valve timing, as opposed to 20/60 original),or with a R5's, but measure it carefully.

The compression ratio can be increased to 10:1,but I don't recommend it. If you can get a 9,5:1 is well. (Get a specialised workshop to do it, never touch it without precision tools).

A new plug set is absolutely necessary,try multiple electrode types from Autolite,or the fantastic W78G from Bosch. Do not put colder plugs. A thermic value of 170-200 is enough.

The ignition setting must be checked carefully, with a timing light and precision rpm counter. Set the ruptor's contacts gap at 0.35-0.4mm, to have 60% Dwell. Never touch them again, as it modificates the initial advance very much. Calculate (depends on clutch plate diameter) the advance degrees in mm,mark the 5,10,20 degrees with fluorescent paint on the clutch edge(the 0 is marked), and check the centrifugal advance,which must be 20 degrees on the crankshaft at 2000rpm, with the vacuum advance disconected.

Increase or lower the springs in the distributor,until the values fit.The vacuum advance set is max 5 degrees at 850rpm,also check it. Using an electronic ignition (transistor switch) adaptable directly onto the existing sistem is very effective, and I strongly recommend to purchase one. Plug tension increases to 25-30KV,and cold starts are very easy. An electronic alternator relay(also a bigger alternator,replace the dynamo if you have one-it is not reliable and is very poor in terms of efficiency, a 60A alternator is good) and a good battery (I recommend a Delco Freedom >55Ah) is a must for constant 14V on the ignition system, making a constant relanti, and preventing overheating of electric components. Mount anew distributor and distributor cap, as they wear out fast (must be done before any ignition adjustment).The initial advance is a subtle adjustment, depending on the fuel used. My advice is to run on highest possible octane fuel, 98octanes minimum. Carefully set the initial advance at 0 degrees(vacuum disconected), and progressively fast, accelerate the engine;increase it in 1 degree steps ,listening to detonation sounds, if they appear(high pitched metallic sounds). If they are heard, return 2-3degrees and block theignitor. Differences in 1-2 degrees ARE essential. Hear the engine in traction, and vary the

initial advance, if the sound is weird, or there is a power or acceleration loss. I recommend around 5mm advance (clutch of 180mm diameter). It will increase power, and not affect the parts(detonation isa very serious problem, avoided with hi-octane fuel and rich fuel mixtures. Basically, it consists in explosions by compression, before the spark plug initiates the normal ignition - much like in a Diesel engine, caused also by deposits on cylinder and valve heads, and it can lead to piston failure). The advance can be increased if the carburettor is a multi-barrel, or rejetted. The carburettor is usually a 32 mm Solex. If you have a constant depression type S.U.,replace it.

If you can make new intake manifolds,mount anything from 32 mmm single barrel to 4 barels (twin double barrel carbs-see R12Gordini), like Solex 34PIC, 30CIC ,40DDHE, even a 4A1 can be tried,or Weber 32/38/40/42/45 DCOE, 38/42DCNF, 32DIR/DARA.(Carburettor replacements require a fair amount of experience in carb jetting, and complicated procedures). However,the simplest way is to rejet the existing carb,the Solex 32 EISA.After many tests , I recommend the following values: main jet180, correction air jet 180(yes,the same value, for performance reasons,and allowing warmer plugs to be mounted), secondary jet 90, idle jet 40 or 42.5 , acceleration pump injector 30-35. Set the fuel level, adjust 12,7mm from the the carb lid to floater's mid ring. Adjust the acceleration pump so it can function throughout the entire rpm range(instead of cut at 2000rpm). (A very important part is a fuel filter before the fuel pump,and a fine particles filter before the carb,as rust or gasoline gums can obliterate the jets.Also wash the carb in special washer or 110octane fuel once a year-the brass jets and rubber parts in fuel only!).

Carb tuning can be done checking the plug color. Up to 2000rpm, the idle jet can adjust the mixture. Color should be brown,with clean isolators; grey is too lean, black, smoked is too rich; oil on the plug means it isn't working. Set the plug gap to 0.5mm with normal ignition , 0.7-0.9mm with electronic ones. Check color after 10 min run on flat road, at constant rpm (1500,2000,2500,...5000-using a inferior gear at hi-rpms). Cut engine imediately after stopping the car, and watch the color. At high rpms it is better to be more dark, because the hi-speed air intake makes lean mixtures, leading to detonation, low performance,and engine overheating. A too lean or too rich mix will make the accelerations go slow; a very rich mixture changes the engine sound very much. See that all pieces of accelerator pedal, including cable, are intact. With this jet values , you'll easily reach 100km/h in 3rd gear(1,48/3,777 gear ratio).

If you can ,mount a air intake on the hood (see R12G); never lose the air filter - shortens the engine lifefor very little power boost.

Lose the first exhaustion silencer,replace it with a pipe of the same length(once sold by the factory-see catalogue P.R.907). Polish the intake and exhaust manifolds on the inside,and also piston heads and valve heads.Make sure the valves' springs are new - it is a major power loss reason. Make 1.5mm rings from brass,and place them under the springs - this will make for precise valve timing at hi-rpms,and thesound of engine will go a little firmer,with a touch of "hiss" .Adjust the valve gaps(make sure the valves close firmly on their seat when you assemble the engine,if not polish the valve seats with specialcarborundum polish, until the seat has a perfect ring in the middle - watch out for bent valve heads-replacing is absolutely necessary!).

Get rid of the heavy ventilator fan and mount a light plastic one (electic fans are also good,but depend on an electical contact which can easily fail,so they are not a "mount and forget" item).

For better acceleration,you can take some weight off the clutch plate,but do not exagerate-it will

become fragile. Half a kg to one kg will do, if it is a heavy one(5kg). If it is a thin one leave as it is. (I dont recommend rod thinning-use it to even the rod weights and just that.This gets us to piston balance-make sure the weight differences are under 1gm,best 0gm.)

To end the engine section, make sure the distribution chain is new,or you'll get a trembling engine at allrpms,or backfires-if it has over 25000kms,change it. The oil must be in the SJ range, I recommend Castrol GTX3 15W40,or better Castrol Racing RS 5W60. A high pressure oil pump from a R18 can be useful (7bar as opposed to 4bar original max. pressure).

The original brakes are not very efficient. Get a double-circuit brake pump-like R Fuego's,or a larger DBX Bendix with by-pass (also putting a new back brakes limitator,with return circuit). If you want performant brakes,never put a servo - it loses pressure quickly and blocks the front of the car when it kicks in. The R12 is an under steering car, so if you need, increase the pressure on the back brakes fromthe limitator (it works from 32bar-no load to 40 bar-full loaded car). As always,theR12G's brakes (frontventilated discs,back discs) are an optimum, if you can find them. In all cases put new friction surfaces-Bendix originals.

Get some alloy wheels-the steel original ones are heavy and not very confortable, as well as 4.5' in width ,with 155R13S tyres. Maximum width of tyres is 195 (to fit underneath the body ),so get 5.5' or 6' wheels with 185/60R13H (pressure 2.0/2.0)or 195/55R13H (pressure 2.25/2.25) tyres , (the entire wheels from R5GT Turbo(3 bolts rims)-they are perfect!). These values will increase significantly the overall acceleration, and , mostly, the stability.

New shock absorbers are a must. Get some Monroe Sensatrac, Koni Reds - with some modification,or equivalent, with action adjustment if possible. Make reinforcement bars between the shock absorber fixing points on the car body, from 1inch steel pipe in front-but also in the back,if necessary (rough roads) .In combination with the new tyres, you can correct the car to neutral steering,or even oversteering (if you lower the pressure in the back tyres). Mount the R12G stabilisation bars(25mm front,20mm back),or mount twin stabilisators in the back(2x14mm) - but it is not a very good choice, asthe front is heavier.

Check the wheels' angles on anelectronic tester(make sure the front and back wheels are parallel, perpendicular on the ground, and the body's longitudinal line begins and ends at the same height (for this last one,3.15 degrees will do, or H5-H2=50mm).

Test the car on low adherence road (sand,grass,etc.), perfectly flat, and see if front or rear goes first in afast turn-be extremely careful not to flip the car on one side-an experienced competition driver gets it easy under control, a less experienced one, not. NEVER TEST THE CAR ON PUBLIC ROADS ! - it is dangerous both for you and the others, as you don't know the exact reactions of a car during tests following performance improvement modifications. Do not exceed the speeds(3.777:1 transmission ratio): 45 in 1st gear(3.61),76 in 2nd(2.26),110 in the 3rd(1.48),150 in 4th(1.032gear ratio).

You can check the maximum speed only on closed roads, specifically designed for this purpose, with adequate security - you don't have rollbars or airbags, and R12's frame, although crash tested,is not thatstrong. (If you can,get a 5speed gear box,also from a R12G - you'll not go faster in terms of maximum speed, but the acceleration will go faster - on winding roads especially - you have a great 3rd gear of 1.61,a 4th of 1.21,and a 5th of 1.032 or 0.97 gear ratio). Set a RPM counter on the dashboard,and nevergo over 6400rpms (better set an electronic beeper to sound at 6000rpm,conected to the rev counter), or the engine will fail - also mark the value visibly on the rev counter. With low tyres, the speed meter will

show more than the actual speed (1.82m circumference on 155R13,174cm on 185/60R13,173cm on195/55R13 - you can calculate the percentage to be deducted from the speed dial), so watch carefullythe rpm counter-a racer's most prized indicator.

An oil pressure ,oil and water temperature indicators (from a R12G,with the measuring devices to fit onthe engine) is very useful. A big front radiator will keep the engine cooled, so get one. Never remove the thermostat. Use antifreeze liquid at all times, and not water only. Back inside, the steering wheel is a large diameter one, and allows a good control for a non-servo steering. Do not replace it for a smaller one - the car can get rough in case of tyre blow.

Polish the car - it gets more aerodynamic-it is not a joke. If you want to put an air deflector to push the car down at high speed, keep in mind that the air over the body of a R12 takes off at the end of the superior surface, not at the end of the car (that's why this car's back windscreen is always clean during rain drives!). If you don't need the bumpers, remove them, as well the back seats, carpets, etc-but only for competition reasons, otherwise you'll work for very much for very little.On public roads, keep the bumpers on, for safety reasons. The handbrake button can be blocked or removed (floor models), to help oversteering when needed (tete-a queue,hairpin,etc.).

Success in tuning the unique R12,and drive well. I did and I'm very pleased with it! E-mail me at bc71237@yahoo.com and send any questions on this car: tech,maintenance or other.

Chris B.C. Angelo.

Formulae:

Diamètre du carburateur :D = k x racine ( C x n )

où D diamètre carburateur (mm), C cylindrée unitaire (litres), n régime moteur (tr/mn)k = 0.8 pour 80 à 100 ch/l (Moto 4 temps)

0.85 80 à 100 ch/l (Auto 4 temps)0.9 100 à 150 ch/l (Moto 2 temps)

Formule Solex :1 à 4 cylindres : D = 0.82 x racine ( C x n ) 6 cylindres : D = racine ( C x n ) 8 cylindres : D = 1.15 x racine ( C x n )

Formule Weber :D = 0.8 à 0.9 x racine ( C x n )

Dimensions principales :diffuseur ou venturi d = 0.8 Dgicleur principal Gp = 5 dajutage d'automaticité a = Gp + 60

D'après les courbes proposées dans le document Weber :

diamètre du carburateur en mmmoteurs 4 temps, 4 ou 6 cylindres, environ 5000 tr/mn : ( Cylindrée totale * 0.875 ) + 11.125 moteurs sportifs 4 temps sans compresseur

6000 tr/mn : ( cylindrée unitaire * 0.055 ) + 11.125 8000 tr/mn : ( cylindrée unitaire * 0.070 ) + 14,250 10000 tr/mn : ( cylindrée unitaire * 0.085 ) + 15.375

plus grand : puissance maxi à régime élevé, vitesse maxi sur route. plus petit: meilleure accélération, diminution de la puissance maxi.

gicleur principal (en mm)mini (diffuseur * 0,051) - 0,03maxi (diffuseur * 0,058) + 0,07

One of my Weber books lists these emulsion tubes versus cylinder capacity:

F11 - 250cc to 325ccF15 - 275cc to 400ccF16 - 350cc to 475ccF2 - 450cc to 575ccF8 - 550cc to 675ccF7 - 675cc and above

Weber dgav tuning

So what can you do on your own? Well, you could buy a box of spiffy jets and other hardware, then spend about 100 years trying all the combinations to find the ultimate results. This is done commonlyand is generally called racing. Or you could listen to what others have done with similar applications and buy a much smaller box of spiffy jets and things and probably achieve the same results. Or you could go to someone who has already done this enough times to know how and is willing to do it for you. In the end, you will have a simple little carburetor that performs great and that you understand a bit better. The good news is that the Webers, as you buy them, are set up very close to what you need. (Caution: if you are the junkyard dog insisting that the $10 DFV off the old Renault you found is right for you, you have your work cut out for you, I promise. I intend to try to save you some of the joy of that tuning exercise here.) This data is for rather mild, more or less stock-type motors. If you really want some unique, high-power motor, you probably aren't going to use the DGV anyway. You may elect to challenge my advice and, if you add to it, I'll be pleased. What I just promised is to lay out a tuning procedure using the small box of spiffy jets. To begin, you must have a solid engine and fully functional electrical system. It sounds silly, but most of the time a carburetor is replaced because another part is malfunctioning. If the engine isn't pumping the air in and out smoothly and predictably, then the carburetor hasn't much chance to match that air with gas. If the electrical system isn't firing all of the cylinders properly, tuning the carburetor will be no help. I find that, most of the time, my first evaluation of whether a problem is carburetor or ignition is exactly wrong! The point is to first get the simple stuff right. We are now ready to start in on tuning the carburetor. Take the top off the carburetor and locate all ofthe jets, the nice brass parts. They are brass so they can be easily produced with the required precision, but you can easily mess them up with the wrong size tools. (The correct tools for this job

were covered in the previous article, which also has cutaway drawings to help you locate and identifythe parts.) Write down their values and put them back in exactly the same place from which they came. Few will fit into the wrong location, but be very careful and thorough here. The top is held on with six screws and a clip on the choke linkage. Use the proper sizes of screwdrivers and take your time. You may be able to buy all the little pieces for a Weber but you'll not like their cost! The idle jets are in holders on both sides at the top of the body. The air jets are in the center on the top, the e-tubes are directly beneath them in the body, and the main jets and power valve are in the bottom of the float chamber. The accelerator-pump jet is the little aluminum wing-shaped part overhanging both halves of the carburetor. The float valve and float are in the top cover. Generally, you won't change the power valve unless it is damaged. It's located on the very bottom of the float-chamber floor. You should now have a list of jets something like: primary idle 60, primary main 140, primary air 170, primary e-tube F50, secondary idle 60, secondary main 135, secondary air 170, secondary E-tube F 52, and pump jet 40. Measure the float height from the top by holding the cover vertically with the pivot at the top and the float dangling and just closing the valve. If you just measure it upside down, the distance will be too small. It should be 41mm with a brass float or 35mm with a plastic float. Reassemble everything and test the performance of the car. Make note of any popping or surging and where they occur as the throttle position and load changes. Write things down and take your time. Try to imagine where you are in the range of flow I rambled on about a little while ago. The trickis to go right to the area of concern instead of the one next to it. It isn't easy but it can be fun. It is typical for this carburetor to have richness in the primary progression. This offers good power characteristics but is overdone for our application (The DAF is just the opposite). You will feel it as a hesitation at light load, and you may have a black tailpipe after a freeway cruise. This may not be as much a problem on a two-liter as a 1600. Also, it is typical for the secondary to have a lean progression which will feel like a hesitation as you open the secondary and maybe even cause a pop back through the carburetor. You should be able to feel the resistance of the secondary as you open it with the throttle at about 2/3 travel. Finally, look for a hesitation when you suddenly add throttle at several points along the flow range. The accelerator pump is usually a bit small, and this is a good indication. Lean will feel like a sudden loss, whereas rich feels like a gradual one, and right on feels very good.

[/quote][quote]

Now you get to make your first guess for improvements. Do everything one-step at a time and test your results. The basic process is to go lean until you know you're too far then back up one jet. You will feel the lean condition much more easily than a rich one. Remember to change only one thing at a time even though I am giving you about ten here. This means you will have lots of fun, and it is also why shops don't sell this procedure, no one wants to pay for the time. The primary circuit is where you spend most of the time when you drive the car so it is a good place to start. If your carburetor is rich as I suspect, you will need a smaller main fuel jet or larger air jet. Replace the 170 air jet with a 160. Small motors will likely want a smaller main, a 135 or 130. The #40 pump jet is always too small, go ahead and install a 45 for small motors, a 50 for large motors and violate the one thing at a time rule. Reassemble and test the car, remembering that lean will surge and rich will lag. You want crisp and happy. Try jet changes one at a time if you want perfection. You may become sensitive to the area around 1/4 throttle feeling soft, we can change the e-tube to a F11 to correct that. Next, we'll tune the secondary. Remember to test it by getting into it, I mean really into it! You should feel a full-power surging which will be more apparent as you fine tune the primary, partly from improvements in your carburetor and partly from improvements in your technique. I find an L18 to like a secondary air of 115 and a secondary main as low as 85 (bigger motors may like a main of 90 to 100). These values assume you are using the F9 emulsion tube in the secondary main circuit. [/quote][quote][/quote][quote]Once you are happy with your primary jetting, you may choose to workon the idle jetting. This is a different technique and doesn't require removing the top of the carburetor, but it doesn't work well until the primary is pretty close. The technique is to drop the idle to a minimum value with the two adjusters (the mixture screw will be about two turns and the throttle screw at the minimum setting) as close to completely shut as possible while still keeping the motor running. You want maybe 750 rpm here. Now, slowly screw in the throttle adjust to speed up the motor to about 1500 rpm and listen to the progression. You want a smooth progression with no surging. A lean mixture may cause stalling. Now return to the low rpm and open the mixture screw

1/2 turn and do the test again. If it improves, then raise the idle jet to a 70 or the next size. If it deteriorates, drop one jet. Retest. The carburetor will run on the idle circuit, but since this is the smallest jet, it is the most likely to become plugged. If you lose your idle, check this jet first as it's the most likely to be plugged and the easiest to get to. If you just can't get the engine to idle without propping open the throttle with the idle speed screw, the secondary idle needs adjustment (if your carburetor has in idle hole below the secondary throttle plate). The secondary idle circuit has no metering screw so you will need to clean or replace the jet if adjustment is needed. To repeat, you will find in your experimentation that lean is very easily sensed. You can do a very good job of tuning if you use the technique of going leaner in steps until too lean, then back one step. Smaller mains are leaner, larger airs are leaner. The progression from low throttle up, as you feel it, is idle to e-tube, to main jet, to air jet, and, of course, primary to secondary. The pump and choke circuits are not involved. Now, if you have the equipment to read the tailpipe you can do a little better in the lean vs. rich sensing. You will be looking for CO readings of 3% to 6% (3% are the best smog value for cruise conditions, and 6% is the best power number for WOT.) Hydrocarbons (HC) under 200 ppm (parts per million) is reasonable with a carburetor tuned for a full power A/F ratioof 11:1 to 12.5:1 for load and 15:1 for cruise, which should work with the above values. Idle screw adjustments are done to minimum C0 and HC readings. 2-5% C0 and 200 ppm HC seem reasonable goals. If the HC level reads above 200 ppm check for a spark miss. For a drag strip type dyno run, one step too lean will cost 0.3 seconds between 3000 and 6000 rpms, while one step too rich will cost 0.1 second. A final note: Altitude corrections are mostly done with the primary main: one size smaller for every 3000 feet. That means one or two steps for Shasta. To summarize and deliver the promise, I have given you a chart of spiffy jets to build your collection, the infamous small box. You will learn to disagree with and expand upon this list. Earlier, I said you would likely feel no power increase with a super tuning of your carburetor, and that is true, but you will get a bunch more power in the area between idle and full power which will feel like a lot more power and allow you to go faster and use less gas. Or is that OR use less gas! Good luck.

(32/36 DGAV) carburettor Idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 ± 25 rpm Idle mixture (CO content) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ± 0.2% Fast idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2900 ± 100 rpm Float level (without gasket): Brass float . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41.0 mm (1.61 in) Plastic float . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.3 mm (1.39 in) Automatic choke vacuum pull-down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.5 ± 0.25 mm (0.26 ± 0.01 in) Automatic choke phasing dimension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 ± 0.25 mm (0.06 ± 0.01 in) Primary Secondary Throttle barrel diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . …. 32.0 mm 36.0 mm Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 26.0 mm 27.0 mm Idle jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . …. 45 45Main jet:Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 130Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . …....130 132

Air correction jet:Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 120Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . …..... 170 120

Emulsion tube:Manual gearbox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F66 F66Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . …..... F50 F66