OWNER’S MANUAL AND STRINGING INSTRUCTIONS

Swing

8 retainers

2 “W” adaptors4 spacers

Awl andNeedle nose pliers

2 Flying clamps

Allen Key SetUse key to adjust

flying clamps

Hole in rod

Allen screw

WARRANTYDeuce Industries warrants the Silent Partner Swing for a period of five years. Deuce Industries’ obligation under thiswarranty is limited to the original purchaser and applies to the cost of labor and materials to repair a warrantabledefect. A satisfaction warranty is provided for a trial period of thirty days.

To obtain warranty service call or write Deuce Industries Ltd to obtain instructions on how to proceed. No returns willbe accepted without prior authorization. Shipping to Deuce Industries must be prepaid. After completing warrantedrepairs, Deuce Industries will pay for return shipment to you. Under no circumstance is shipping reimbursed under theterms of the satisfaction warranty. Shipping address in the USA: Deuce Industries, 2221 Kenmore Ave. Unit 106,Buffalo, NY 14207.

Assembly, Accessories and Warranty

ASSEMBLING ARMThe picture on the right shows the back of the Swing. The dropweight arm is assembled by inserting one end into the correspondinghole in the string gripper. Note that a small hole is drilled near the endof the arm. After inserting the arm, fasten the Allen set screw so that itis lodged securely into the hole drilled in the arm.

CLAMPS AND TOOLS The Silent Partner Swing is supplied with two flyingclamps. The pinch of the clamps can be adjusted byturning the Allen screw shown in the picture. A set ofAllen keys is supplied with the Swing (some machinesmay be supplied with only the Allen key for the clampadjustment since this is the only size normally usedon the Swing). Needle nose pliers and an Awl arealso supplied with the machine.

Adjustment Screw

SUPPORTS AND SPACERS The Silent Partner Swing is supplied with a number ofsupports, retainers and spacers for the center of theracquet at the head and throat. The supports that youwill likely use most often are called “W” adaptors(white parts shown in picture). If the spacing of the“W” interferes with the grommets on a frame, use oneof the eight retainers instead. Note that the retainersfit under the grommets. The 4 spacers (in the shapeof a bow tie), can be placed under the racquet at thehead or throat to ensure that it is mounted horizontally.

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Tensioning with the Drop Weight

SELECTING TENSIONTension is selected by sliding the weight along the arm.Align the left edge of the weight with the desired tensionas indicated on the printed scale. To avoid damaging thscale, secure the weight by tightening the fastening knobso that the knob points toward you rather than toward thetable.

Two scales are printed on the arm. The lower range is forbadminton and racquet ball and requires that only thesmall weight be used in tensioning. To remove the largeweight, unfasten the Allen bolt shown at top.

GRIPPING THE STRINGTo tension the string, wrap it around the string gripper andthen insert it between the jaws. The jaws of the gripperare diamond coated and grip the string securely. The sur-face of the jaws does not require maintenance. The out-side of the drum should be cleaned periodically with rub-bing alcohol. At the same time you, should clean the pinch-ing surfaces of the flying clamps. No other maintenance isrequired on your Silent Partner Swing.

TENSIONING THE STRINGDrop the weight while initially holding the loose end of thestring (see previous picture). You should not pull tightly onthe string or the arm may not reach the horizontal position.Note that the clutch will allow you to pull the weight up, butnot down, so you should begin by aiming for a position thatis lower than the horizontal (as shown in the picture on theright).

To obtain accurate tension, the arm should rest in a hori-zontal position (+/- 2 degree deviation is acceptable). If thearm comes to rest above the horizontal, you will have torelease the string and grip it again allowing for a bit moreslack. If the arm comes to rest in a horizontal position, noadjustment is necessary. If the arm goes beyond the hori-zontal, use the clutch by gripping the outer rim of the grip-per as shown in the picture on the right. Keep the gripperstationary as you raise the arm above the horizontal withyour other hand. Release the gripper and the arm andcheck if the arm comes to rest in the horizontal position asshown in the lower picture. If the arm is still below the hori-zontal, hold the gripper and raise the arm again. With a bitof practice you will get the arm in a horizontal position witha single adjustment, or even from the very first drop. Twowords of caution though: Always provide enough slack inthe string so that the arm will go below the horizontalrather than stop above it. Do not press down on the armto get it to the horizontal position (this will create excessiveand inaccurate tension).

READ TENSION HERE

WRAPAND INSERT

LIFT ANDLET REST

HOLDINGGRIPPERON LIFT

GOODFINAL

POSITION

ARMBEYOND

HORIZONTAL

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REMOVE FOR LOW TENSIONS

Operating and Stringing Information (con’t)WEAVING TECHNIQUESThere are two common techniques for weaving thecross strings over and under the mains. Both tech-niques require that one hand be placed over thestring bed and the other hand under it.1) Secure the string between the index finger ofeach hand and push it away from you as you snakeit over and under successive main strings.2) Secure the string with two fingers placed aboutsix inches from the end of the string and pull theresulting loop towards you as you snake it over andunder successive main strings.

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The most common knot in racquet stringing is known as theDOUBLE HALF-HITCH. To tie a half-hitch knot remember the“OUT” rule: take the tying string Over the anchor string, guide itUnder and around the anchor string, and finally pull it Throughthe loop that the tying string has formed. To lock this knot inplace you need only pull on the end of the tying string. A singlehalf-hitch would normally be secure but it is standard practice todouble up on the half-hitch for added security. The second half-hitch is tied exactly the same way using the OUT rule.

Two-piece stringing requires what is known as a STARTINGKNOT to provide an initial anchor for the crosses. One importantproperty of the starting knot is its bulk, which is useful whenusing thin strings. Note that while the starting knot is initiallyloose, the pull of the first cross as it is being tensioned tightensthe knot very securely.

When tying knots it is helpful to lock the racquet in place usingthe screw-in brake on the cross bar. For tight knots, it is alsodesirable to use needle nose pliers to pull on the string. Forsafety, pull down (away from your face). Also for safety it isadvisable to wear protective eye glasses while stringing.

WANT TO STRING FASTER? 1. Perfect your weaving and knot tying techniques! Advancedstingers often weave “one ahead” (two strings are weavedbefore the trailing string is tensioned). This technique exploitsthe “lifting” effect the tensioned “cross” has over the “mains”.

2. Keep track of the string ends so that you don’t have to keepsearching for them. You can keep them under your belt or wristband or in the next hole they will be threaded through.

3. Keep string ends cut at a sharp angle. This will allow themto act as awls when pushed through tight grommet holes.

TYING KNOTSKnots normally involve an anchor string (a stringthat is already installed and tensioned) and a tyingstring (a loose string end that is threaded throughthe same hole as the anchor string and wrappedaround the anchor string in a self-locking pattern).

GETTING READY TO STRING

CUTTING OLD STRINGSBecause the breakage of a string causes substantialimbalance in the distribution of tension in the frame, itis advisable for the owner of the racquet to cutthrough the entire string bed as soon as possible aftera string breaks. To avoid creating further stress asone cuts into the string bed, it is best to begin at thecenter of the racquet by snipping a main and a crossstring together where they intersect. One should thenproceed outward in a diagonal toward the rim by snip-ping intersecting strings above and below the centerpoint in alternation. If, after reaching the rim, a fewstrings still hold tension, they can be cut singly.Remove the strings by pulling them out of the framefrom the outside. Lay the pieces in a neat bundle tofacilitate clean-up.

RACQUET INSPECTIONExamine the frame for hairline cracks and for warpage. A frame that suffers from structural weaknessesmay not be worth stringing. Next look for repairable damage. A common wear point is at the head ofthe racquet where the protective bumperguard may be damaged from contact with the court. Grommetscan also wear on the inside of the frame where strings are tied. Although it is normal for grommets toflare from the compression caused by knots at tie off points, grommets that allow the string to touch theracquet frame should be replaced. If replacement is indicated, you may want to consult with a profes-sional for advice on how to proceed and for obtaining the exact replacement part for your racquet. Ifyou obtain the replacement grommet and want to install it yourself, be mindful of the following points:(1) the replacement grommet strip must be made specifically for your racquet, (2) Start at one end byinserting the first grommet into the appropriate hole in the racquet and then proceed to adjacent grom-mets in succession. You will soon find it necessary to help each grommet pass through the inner hole inthe racquet frame by guiding it with the point of an awl. (3) Used grommet strips cannot be reinstalled.

RACQUET TERMINOLOGY

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6 Mounting on the Inside 6-point System1. Place the racquet head on the postmarked for the head. The mountingposts should allow the racquet to fitcomfortably. Secure the mountingpost at the head with the large knob.Make sure that the “W” support at thehead is clear of the frame. If mount-ing an oversize frame, the “D” sup-ports at the head can be placed inthe outer holes. For midsize framesthey should be in the inner holes.

2. Push the head against the two “D”supports. The center finger of the“W” adapter must line up with thecenter of the frame. Make sure thatgrommets do not interfere with the“D” and “W” supports. The height ofthe “D” supports is adjustable. Forconvenience adjust them now bybacking off the frame and turning theAllen head below by hand. The flatpart of the “D” must face the frame.

3. While continuing to push theframe against the “D” supports (notshown here) turn the microadjusterclockwise to bring the “W” adapterin contact with the frame. Stop atcontact or you will pull the frameaway from the “D” supports. The“W” adapter may not fit somegrommet patterns. If so, use ablack flat retainer that fits justbelow the grommets.

4. While continuing to push theframe against the “D” supports and“W” support, install the hold-downclamp, washer and knob. Tightenthe knob snuggly. The “D” supportsshould fit below the grommets with-out interfering with them.

5. Tighten the large knob thatsecures the mounting post to thesquare bar. You should tighten thisknob securely because the mount-ing posts must resist substantialinward pull during stringing. Notethat this is the only knob thatshould be tightened very hard.

6. Now switch to mounting thethroat. Slide the mounting post tobring the “D” supports in contact withthe frame. The “W” support shouldbe backed-off at this point. This is agood time to adjust the height of the“D” supports. Also make sure thatthe frame is horizontal. Use a spac-er if necessary (see front page).

7. While pressing the “D” supportssnuggly against the frame (notshown here), secure the mountingpost by tightening the large knob.The large knob should be tight-ened hard.

8. While holding the frame downagainst the mounting post and the“D” supports (not shown here) turnthe microadjuster clockwise tobring the “W” adapter in contactwith the frame. Stop at contact oryou will stretch the frame.

9. Install the hold-down clamp withwasher and knob. Tighten snuggly.The height of the “D” supports canbe given a final adjustment with anAllen key at this time. The flat partof the “D” should stay snug againstthe frame as you turn the screw.

“D” supports

“W” support

Hold-down clamp

PATTERNS AND WHERE TO FIND THEMEach racquet has a stringing pattern that is specified by the racquet manufacturer. The table belowshows the pattern for a Wilson Hammer 5.8 95 (mid size), the racquet we will use in this stringing tutori-al. Once you understand the basic steps involved in stringing this racquet, you will be able to interpretthe pattern for any racquet. To assist you, we have posted the patterns for a large number of racquetson the internet. Here is where you will find them:

www.sptennis.com/patterns.html

To interpret stringing patterns correctly it is important to know what each part of the racquet is called.* The tip of the racquet is known as the HEAD and is referred to as "H" in stringing patterns. * The bottom of the racquet head is known as the THROAT and is referred to as "T" in patterns. * The strings that run from the throat to the head of the racquet are known as the MAINS and arereferred to as "M" in stringing patterns. * The strings that run from side to side in the racquet head are known as the CROSSES and arereferred to as "X" in stringing patterns.. * The holes in the racquet head are referred to by number, counting in either direction from the center atthe head (e.g. 7H) or at the throat (e.g. 7T).

Deciding whether to go with 1-piece or 2-piece stringing

Notice that the stringing pattern for the Hammer 5.8 contains information for one-piece stringing andtwo-piece stringing. One-piece stringing is the most common, but it is not always the best. A descrip-tion of the two methods of stringing follow along with a few of their advantages and disadvantages.When all is said and done, both methods yield excellent results. To avoid unwanted stresses, some rac-quet manufacturers occasionally specify only one method for stringing some of their frames.

One piece stringing is done with a single piece of string that is tied in two places only. The string isdivided into what is known as a "short side" and a "long side". The short side is used to string themains on one side of the racquet head, ending in one tie off, while the long side is used to string themains on the other side as well as all of the crosses ending with the other tie off. + Two knots take less time than four (but don't worry, tying knots is really easy). + String usually comes in one coil and can be used with less cutting this way. - The same type of string needs to be used for the mains and the crosses. - The long side of the string is a bit cumbersome when lacing the mains.

Two-piece stringing utilizes one piece of string for the mains and another for the crosses. The pieceused for the mains is divided into two equal parts around the center point of the racquet and is lacedsymmetrically on both sides of the center point, ending in a tie off at each end. The crosses are startedat one end with a "starting knot", and are weaved to the other end where they are tied off. + Allows the use of different strings for the mains and crosses. + Neither piece of string is very long, making it easier to lace the mains. - Unless the string is packaged as a hybrid, a bit more measuring is necessary. - Four knots are more intimidating for beginners than two (despite our reassurances).

ONE PIECERACQUET TENSION PATTERN START MAINS TIE LENGTH SHORT START LAST TIEWilson LBS M x X LOOP SKIP MAINS (TOTAL) SIDE CROSS CROSS OFFHammer 7T,9T5.8 95 50-60 16x19 T 7H,9H 6T 34' 8.5' 7T 7H 5H

TWO PIECELENGTH START LAST TIE

M x X CROSS CROSS OFF18'x15' 7H 7T 5H,11T

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LACING THE MAINS

Stringing normally begins with themains at the center of the racquet andproceeds outward to the sides of theframe. Measure enough string for theshort side according to the racquetpattern (a measuring tape is providedon the machine) and form a loop atthe head or throat according to thepattern for the racquet you are string-ing. For 2-piece stringing, the stringon each side of the loop is of equallength.

Pull the two strings snuggly by handto close the loop and apply a clampover both. The clamp should beplaced about three inches from theloop to provide sufficient space for theplacement of another clamp. Notethat flying clamps should always rideon two strings and that they should beadjusted to pinch the two stringssecurely but not excessively. If yousee clamp marks on the strings,reduce the tightness of the clamp byturning the adjusting screw counter-clockwise with the allen key suppliedwith the clamp.

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Lace the upper string through the nextopen grommet hole at the head andthroat and secure it to the string grip-per on the tensioning unit. Set thereference tension according to yourneeds (between 50 and 60 lbs for thisframe) and drop the arm to tensionthe string. Use the clutch if necessaryto allow the arm to rest horizontally,then install the second flying clamp asshown in the picture. Raise the armafter clamping the string. Note thatthe brake is not used during tension-ing

HELPFUL HINT FOR UNCOILING STRINGStringing a racquet is a little like going fishing -- the hardest part is often deal-ing with tangles. To avoid spending a long and frustrating time untanglingstring (not uncommon with beginners) snip the plastic tie with diagonal cutterswhile holding the roll of string tightly with one hand (be careful not to snip astring in the process or you could cut your roll in half!). Continue to hold theroll with one hand and use the other hand to unwrap the string one coil at atime, allowing the loose end to gather on the floor. It will help you to knowthat a 40 foot roll contains about 32 coils. Under most circumstances, howev-er, you will need to measure the string using the measuring rule on the string-ing machine.

SHORT SIDE = 8.5FT

LONG SIDE = 25.5FT

START(LOOP)

FOR TWO PIECE STRINGING BOTH SIDES = 9 FT

1

2

3

LEAVE SPACE FOR OTHER CLAMP

PLACE CLAMP ON BOTH STRINGS

LACETENSION AND

CLAMP

LACING THE MAINS (con’t)ONE PIECE

RACQUET TENSION PATTERN START MAINS TIE LENGTH SHORT START LAST TIEWilson LBS M x X LOOP SKIP MAINS (TOTAL) SIDE CROSS CROSS OFFHammer 7T,9T5.8 95 50-60 16x19 T 7H,9H 6T 34' 8.5' 7T 7H 5H

TWO PIECELENGTH START LAST TIE

M x X CROSS CROSS OFF18'x15' 7H 7T 5H,11T

The frame has been rotated 180degrees to tension the string on thehead side. Note that the flying clampthat is not necessary to hold tensionon the strings (given that the tension-er is temporarily lending a hand)needs to be moved to the new posi-tion to clamp the strings at the head,close to the string gripper (see picture5, for example). Take care never torelease tension in the tensioned stringbed. You’ll have to start from scratch!

You don’t want to miss skipping holesthat will be used for crosses (holes 7and 9 at the head and throat in thisframe). Just between you and us, adead give away of inexperiencedstringers is that they count theirstrings at practically every tensioningoperation, so try to do it discretely.

From this point on things get repeti-tive for a while. What is important isto lace and tension one string at atime in alternation on each side of thecenter point. This is to maintain eventension in the frame.

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ROTATE RACQUET, TENSION...

THEN MOVE CLAMP TO HERE AND CLAMP

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5

4

KEEP LACING, TENSIONING AND CLAMPINGON ALTERNATE SIDES OF THE CENTER

SKIP 7H AND 7T

YOU WILL ALSO SKIP 7H AND 7T ON THIS SIDEAND 9H AND 9T ON BOTH SIDES LATER ON

This pattern comprises 16 mainstrings which are shown fully ten-sioned in this picture. You don’t wantto lose tension at this point!

This tutorial illustrates 1-piece and 2-piece stringing. The last step ininstalling the mains in 2-piece string-ing is to tie off the second main. For1-piece stringing this main is not tiedoff since the long string is used toweave the crosses.

The pattern tells you where to tie offthe mains. Note that there is alreadya tensioned string in this hole (knownas the anchor) and that the hole islarger than most other holes toaccommodate two strings. Recognizing tie off holes is a valuableskill when a racquet pattern is notavailable. Detailed instructions onthis type of tie off (using a doublehalf-hitch knot) are provided in thismanual on page 4.

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HELPFUL HINT FOR TYING KNOTSBecause tension is invariably lost when a knot is tied, some operators like to pull thelast string at 3 lbs higher than the reference tension. To hold this tension while tyingthe knot, some operators push an an awl in the grommet hole where the last string istensioned prior to tie off. While this procedure is effective in preventing movement ofthe string when tying the knot, it should be used with great care because it can resultin an enlarged grommet hole or cause damage to the grommet and the string. Thistype of damage usually causes premature failure of the string. You should alwaysinspect grommets to insure that they provide a smooth bed for the string.

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8

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MAINS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED AND TENSIONED

MAIN IS TIED AT 6T WITHA DOUBLE HALF-HITCH KNOT

FOR TWO-PIECESTRINGING,

OTHER MAIN ISALSO TIED AT 6T

THIS CLAMP CANNOW BE REMOVED

WEAVING THE CROSSESONE PIECE

RACQUET TENSION PATTERN START MAINS TIE LENGTH SHORT START LAST TIEWilson LBS M x X LOOP SKIP MAINS (TOTAL) SIDE CROSS CROSS OFFHammer 7T,9T5.8 95 50-60 16x19 T 7H,9H 6T 34' 8.5' 7T 7H 5H

TWO PIECELENGTH START LAST TIE

M x X CROSS CROSS OFF18'x15' 7H 7T 5H,11T

In 1-piece stringing the long side ofthe string is threaded through the holedesignated by the pattern for startingthe crosses (remember hole 7T thatwas skipped while lacing the mains?).The string is weaved over and underthe mains (see instructions on weav-ing on page 4) and threaded throughthe same-number hole at the otherend. Stringing proceeds in succes-sive open holes until tie off (at 5Hhere). To avoid friction burns duringthis pulling operation it is important to“fan” (push the string up along themains with your fingers) repeatedlywhile pulling.

The pattern specifies that the crossesstart at 7H. Weave the string overand under the mains and thread itthrough the corresponding hole at theother end (see instructions on weav-ing on page 4). Again, take note ofthe importance of spreading or “fan-ning” the string (see instructions forpicture 10 on this page).

Our example will continue with 2-piece stringing, which uses many ofthe same operations as 1-piecestringing. The pattern specifies thatthe crosses start at the head (notethat the starting knot is at 5H; seepage 4 for instructions on tying astarting knot). Because two piecestringing often involves ‘hybrids’ (dif-ferent strings) of different gauges, it isimportant to check and adjust thepinch of the flying clamps at this time.

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IN ONE-PIECE STRINGING CROSSES START AT 7T

TO AVOID FRICTION BURNS, SPREAD CROSS AS YOU PULL

IN TWO-PIECE STRINGINGOTHER MAIN IS TIED AT 6T

A STARTING KNOT IS TIED FOR SECOND STRING AT 5H

TO CONTINUE WITH TWO-PIECE STRINGINGFIRST CROSS STARTS AT 7H

DO NOT FORGET TO FAN STRING AS YOU PULL

WEAVE UNDERAND OVER MAINS

WEAVING THE CROSSES(con’t)Drop the weight. Crosses are usuallytensioned to the same tension asmains. Take a good look at this pic-ture and ask what keeps the flyingclamp from pulling back with the firstcross. The answer, of course, is “themains”. Note also that because youare only clamping one cross we rec-ommend that you maintain properpinching by placing a dummy piece ofstring on the free side of the clamp.If you use a different gauge of stringfor the crosses than the mains youmay need to re-adjust the tightness ofthe clamp.

Just when this was getting to be fun,we are done! The pattern tells us thatthe last cross is at 7T and the tie offat 11T. The crosses are oftencrooked at the end of a string job.Straighten them and then look careful-ly at the string plane (placing an eyenear the racquet shaft at the level ofthe plane, helps). This is not the timeto discover a missed weave!!!

Stringers love repetition, so here wego again: weaving, tensioning andclamping in successive open holes. Ifspacing makes it difficult to clamp twocrosses at a time, use a dummystring. Be mindful of the fact that thefirst and last few crosses do not startin the same orientation (over orunder) the first main they encounter.On occasion you will encounter heavystring traffic around holes you need toput a cross through. Use the tip of anawl to open a passage. Also, whentraffic gets heavy do not allow stringsto cross over each other on the out-side of the frame (lay them parallel).

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15

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TENSION AND CLAMP.INSTALL CLAMP FROM THE TOP

TO AVOID OBSTRUCTIONS

DUMMY PIECE OF STRING

WEAVE, TENSION ANDCLAMP IN SUCCESSIVE

OPEN HOLES. SOMEPATTERNS SPECIFY

SHARED HOLES

LAST CROSS AT 7TTIED OFF AT 11T

Congratulations on your first string job!

We take the opportunity to thank you for choosing one of our products. We are confident that you willobtain excellent results with your Silent Partner Swing.

Should you require any assistance, do not hesitate to call us at 1-800-662-1809.