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    40 Bombay foods we cant live

    without

    From street food spice bombs to favorite fasting foods and meatdishes fit for a Mughal invader, here are a selection of foods thatany true Mumbaiker revels in.By Sanjiv Khamgaonkar1 July, 2010

    The history of food in Mumbai is closely linked to the growth of thiscity from fishing village to megapolis. As wave after wave ofimmigrants from all over the country came with dreams of gold intheir eyes, they brought their culinary treasures with them. Theresult? A smorgasbord of cooking styles and street food thatreflects our cosmopolitanism as much as our carbohydrate-fueledwork ethic.

    Here's a sampling of 40 must-try foods that define Mumbai's foodculture, with Muslim, Gujarati, Goan, Coastal, South Indian, Parsiand of course local Maharashtran influences.

    Parsi akuri, Mumbai's scrambled eggs.

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    1. Akuri on toast

    Move over scrambled eggs, the Parsi Akuri cometh. Rated as oneof the great Parsi dishes, every family has its own special way ofmaking this breakfast meal. Though variations of the ingredientsare vociferously debated, Akuri is usually made by scrambling eggswith onions, tomatoes (or even raw mangoes when in season), redchilli powder, green chillies and topped with fresh coriander. Othersadd milk, jeera (cumin) powder, curry leaves and even ginger andgarlic paste.Try the Akuri on Toast at Jimmy Boy, 11 Bank Street, VikasBuilding, Off Horniman Circle, Fort. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2266 2503

    2. Baida roti

    This one is an interesting envelope. Spiced meat -- chicken orminced mutton, even bheja (brain) -- and whipped eggs withmasala-fied fried onions enveloped in a square shaped dough andpan fried. Though served with sliced onion rings and green

    chutney, they're delicious even without accompaniment.A lot of people swear by the Baida Roti at Bade Mian, TullockRoad, Behind Taj Mahal Hotel, Apollo Bunder, evenings only. Tel:+91 (0) 22 2284 8038

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    Batata vada, a Mumbai icon.

    3. Batata vada

    Whether it's for breakfast, teatime, or anytime, one thing is for sureMumbaikars cant live without the Batata Vada bite. This well-likedfast food dumpling is made by mashing boiled potatoes with greenchilies, ginger, garlic, lime juice, turmeric, and fresh coriander, thendipped in a besan (gram flour) batter and deep fried. It's servedeither with a green chutney or fried green chillies.Virtually every street corner will have an outstanding Batata Vadaseller but its hard to beat the ones made at Shrikrishna, nearChabildas High School, Dadar Market.

    4. Butter chicken

    This ubiquitous dish traces its roots to the days of the Mughalswhen calorie counting was a thing of the future. This must-orderdish when Indian families go out for dinner is made from chunks ofchicken, marinated overnight in a yogurt and spice mix that includeginger garlic paste and lime juice. It is then grilled or pan-fried. Anultra rich sauce made with butter, tomato puree, cumin, garammasalas and fresh cream is then poured over it. Best had withIndian breads like rotis, naan or parathas. Don't confuse it with

    chicken tikka masala, which is a story for another day.While available at every kind of eatery, the butter chicken at PunjabGrill is worth dying for. Level 3, Palladium Mall, Phoenix Mills,Lower Parel. Tel: +91 (0) 22 4347 3980

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    The classic Bombay Sandwich.

    5. The Bombay sandwich

    This street side invention is a combination of the most unlikelyingredients. Lavishly buttered white bread and sandwichedbetween them thin slices of beetroot, boiled potatoes, cucumbers,

    tomatoes, onion rings, and mint chutney. Cut into four triangles sothat you can handle all the layers without spilling them, you get themost refreshing tangy taste, after each bite. A toasted versionsteams up the vegetables inside and adds another dimension.Truly, there is no other sandwich quite like it in the world.Though widely available through out the city, try it at Amar JuiceCentre, near Cooper Hospital, opp. Juhu Galli. Or the Mafco Stalloutside Worli Dairy on Worli Sea Face.

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    Bheja fry, fried brain, not for the weak hearted.

    6. Bheja fry

    Bheja, or goat brain, sauted with tomatoes, onions, turmeric,green chillies, spices and garnished with fresh coriander, is a staplof all those with hardcore carnivorous leanings in the city. Eaten

    with a roti (Indian bread) or pao, this melt in the mouth dish has arich Muslim heritage behind it and you often find that one plate isnot enough.Radio Restaurant, 10, Musafir Khana, Palton Road, Tel: +91 (0) 222261 7171, serves up a really good Bheja Fry.

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    Fried Bombil aka Bombay Duck.

    7. Bombil fry

    Bombil, or Bombay Duck, is a fish (and not a duck) found in plentyin the waters around Mumbai. A fisher folk favourite, Bombils areflattened, then dipped in a spice-filled besan (gram flour) batter andfried. This crunchy-on-the-outside and mushy-soft-on-the-inside fisdish can be eaten on its own as a starter, or as a main course withchapattis.Gajalee restaurant does a mean Bombil Fry. They have branches

    at Hanuman Road, Vile Parle (E), Tel: +91 22 26114093. And atPhoenix Mills, Lower Parel, Tel: +91 22 2495 0667

    8.. Brun maska

    You may wonder how bread and butter can become such an iconicunion. But it's not merely bread and this is not merely butter. It'sbrun or gutli pao -- a local bread that is unique to Mumbai -- and it'scrisp and hard and crumbly on the outside and soft inside. TheBrun is then sliced and lashings of butter are applied lavishly. Someven sprinkle quite a bit of sugar. It is usually accompanied by the

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    sweet Irani chai. Dipping the brun maska in the chai is the only wayto eat it.

    Available at most Irani restaurants, the Brun Maska at Kyani & Co historic. 657 Jer Mahal Estate, Opp. Metro Cinema, Dhobi Talao,Tel: +91 (0) 22 2201 1492. Also try it at B Merwan, Opp. GrantRoad Station (E), Tel: +91 (0) 22 2309 3321

    Bhel puri at the Taj Hotel.

    9. Bhel puri

    The most commonly sold chaat on the streets of Mumbai, everybhel walla will have his own matchless blend and a considerable7pm fan following. While the ingredients -- puffed rice, papadi (smacrisp deep fried flour puris), sev, onions, potatoes, raw mango andsweet and sour chutney -- remain the same, it is the proportions inwhich they are thrown together on the street side that makes thedifference.Bhel puri is available everywhere. The stalls at Chowpatty and Juhbeaches draw throngs of die-hard fans. But if you want a bhel puriwith ambience, try it at Sea Lounge, Taj Mahal Hotel, ApolloBunder. Tel: +91 (0) 22 6665 3366

    I often had it there. Obscenely expensive!! But it is quite worth thewhile especially when you are seated at the window overlooking th

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    Gatway and the entrance to the harbour.

    10. Chicken mayo rollAlmost every school or college canteen serves it. Most singlescreen cinema houses showing English movies display it during theinterval. Most bakeries will have their version, neatly wrapped incellophane, at the counter. Some grocery stores in up market areastock it along with grain and rice. It's hard to believe that plainboiled chicken doused in sweet-ish mayonnaise with a celery leaf

    for dressing, all wrapped up in a bread roll can be so popular in aspice loving city. But it is.One of the creamiest chicken mayo rolls can be had at Paradise,Sindh Chambers, Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Colaba, Tel: +91 2222832874. Or try it at Candies, Mac Ronells, 5A Pali Hill, St.

    Andrews Road, Bandra (W). Tel: +91 22 26424125

    11. Chicken manchurian

    Here's a dish that even the Chinese over on the mainland haven'theard about. Snigger, snigger. Yet it's on the menu of the roadsidehandcart Chinese food hawker and the Chinese restaurant in thefancy five-star hotel. Chicken manchurian, a phrase that has cometo be the face of Chinese food in India, is nothing but deep-friedbatter-coated chicken cubes in an onion, green chillies, garlic,vinegar and soy sauce gravy. Eaten with rice, it never fails to get a

    sigh of contentment from those partaking of this gastronomicoddity.If you want to taste the real thing, try it where it was created, ChinaGarden, Om Chambers, Kemps Corner. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2363 0841

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    Trishna's butter pepper garlic crab.

    12. Butter garlic crab

    It doesn't trace its roots to Chinese, Continental or Indian cuisines.It comes from Butter Land, an imagined place that thrives on thepremise that anything tastes great with melted butter. A delicious,simple dish, a big crab is drowned in tons of butter garlic sauce thaseeps into every nook and cranny and coats every morsel of theflesh. Crack open the crab and take a bite. Youll know immediatelythat sweet crabmeat and butter with a twist of garlic is a

    combination made by gods.The best butter garlic crab can be found at Mumbai's most famousseafood restaurant. Trishna, Sai Baba Marg, Near Rhythm House,Kala Ghoda, Fort. Tel: +91 22 22703213

    13. Dhoklas and farsaan

    These popular snacks are so integral to food loving Gujaratis thatno meal is complete without them. And when traveling abroad, theydont leave home without a little parcel tucked away in theirluggage. Dhoklas or 'khummun' are made from the fermentedbatter of chickpeas, steamed and then spiced with chillies andginger and tempered with mustard seed.. Farsan, a broad term for

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    savories encompassing sev and gathiya are crisp deep-fried spicedgram flour creations in pasta like shapes.Several stores stock these popular snacks. But try them here:Chedda Dry Fruits & Snacks, 41 Ridge Road, Walkeshwar. Tel: +922 (0) 2369 9442. Dave Farsan Mart, 10 Babulnath Road, nearChowpatty. Tel: +91 (0) 22 6657 8311.. Go-Go Snacks, BhavansCollege Lane, Chowpatty. Tel: +91 22 (0) 2361 9968.

    Falooda, a desi dessert.

    14. Falooda

    This adaptation of a Persian dessert was brought to India by theMughals. A rich drink, Falooda is vermicelli mixed with milk,almonds, pistachios, a bit of rose syrup and the key ingredient --sabza or basil seeds -- topped up with two scoops of ice cream.Refreshing, rosy, energizing, it's a great pick-me-up on a hot day.Badshah, at 152/156 LT Marg, Opp. Crawford Market. Tel: +91 (0)22 2342 1943, has a reputation for their falooda.

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    15. Fish and prawn curryThese two dishes are as old as Mumbai herself (remember, this citstarted off as a fishing village under various kings and sultanatesuntil the Portuguese and English discovered it in 1534). Thiscoconut-based light curry can be prepared using a variety of fish orprawn. But the most popular curries use surmai (kingfish), pomfret(butter fish), bangda (mackerel) or bombil (Bombay duck). And the

    only way to truly enjoy it is with par boiled country rice.For Konkani and Malvani style fish curry go to Sadichha, B-5Gandhi Nagar, Opp. MIG Club, Bandra (E), Tel: +91 (0) 22 26510175.. For Karwar style fish curry there's Fresh Catch, Lt. KotnisMarg, Near Fire Brigade, Off L J Road, Mahim (W). Tel: +91 (0) 222444 8942

    16. Frankie

    Inspired by the Lebanese pita bread wrap and suitably Indianized,the Frankie, or should I say the Tibbs Frankie, has satiated hordesof the hungry in search of a quick lip-smacking snack. Basically, it'sa juicy naan bread with an egg coating and stuffed with mutton orchicken, rolled up and sprinkled with a unique masala that gives itits special flavor. The vegetarian option does not use eggs and thestuffings include paneer or potatoes.

    Available all over the city. For a Tibbs Frankie closest to you, call+91 (0) 22 2821 4698

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    Locals call it the gujju thaali.

    17. Gujarati thaalis

    In fast food terms think of this as a large, all-you-can-eat comboplatter served on your table in unlimited quantities. Three types offarsan (fried snacky things with a plethora of chutneys). Two kindsof vegetables. Two kinds of lentils. Dal and kadhi (hot and spicyyoghurt based dish). A basket of different rotis and puris (deep friedbreads). Two kinds of rice. Two desserts. And mango pulp whichthe purists pour all over the plate. All this for a modest price. Gasp!A note on Gujarati cuisine: most dishes tend to be on the sweetside and that makes an interesting combination with the spicinessof the food. Mumbaikers either love it or ignore it.Try Golden Star Thali, 330 Raja Rammohan Roy Road, Opp.Charni Road Station, Girgaum, Tel: +91 (0) 22 2363 1983. Or,Chetana, 34 K Dubash Marg, Kala Ghoda, Fort. Tel: +91 (0) 222284 4968

    18. Kheema pao

    Minced mutton cooked with onions, garlic, tomatoes, chillies andspices takes on many avatars here. In its original form, it is refereeto as plain Kheema.. Topped with a crisply fried sunny side up eggit is called kheema single fry. And scrambled with eggs, it is called

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    ghotala. And all three are best eaten with Mumbai's signature paobread bun. Traditionally a breakfast dish, it is now eaten at all timeof the day or night.Try it at Stadium Restaurant, IMC Building, Veer Nariman Road,Churchgate, Tel: +91 (0) 22 2204 6819. Or at Olympia, RahimMansion, 1 Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Colaba, Tel: +91 (0) 222202 1043.

    Grilled kebabs are a staple.

    19. Kebabs

    While the kebab per se may not be unique to Mumbai or the regiona few varieties that emerged from the Bohri Muslim community aretruly unique. Gurda (kidney) and kaleji (liver) top this list. Charcoalgrilled, they go great with freshly sliced onions and a squeeze oflime.Try it at Ayubs, on the street behind Rhythm House, Kala Ghoda,open only in the evenings. The best beef kebabs are to be found aSarvi, 184/196 Dimtimkar Road, opposite Nagpada Police Station,Byculla (W). Tel: +91 9833 533 305. And for some outstandingnorth west frontier style Kebabs, go to Peshawari, ITC GrandMaratha, Sahar Road, Andheri (E), Tel: +91 (0) 22 2830 3030

    20. Kolhapuri mutton

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    The hotter the temperature of a city, the hotter the food. And it'strue of this mutton dish that has its roots in Kolhapur, a city in thesouth of Maharashtra. It comes in two coconut based gravyvariations. The nuclear strength version is called Tambda Rassa (ared chili spiced extravaganza). And the milder version is calledPandhara Rassa (yoghurt, cashew nuts and raisin embellished).Both go well with either rotis or rice when you're in the mood for afeast.Taste the heat at Purepur Kolhapur, 1, Aditya Apartments,Parleshwar Road, Parleshwar Mandir, Vile Parle (E). Tel: +91 (0)22 2613 4569

    Maharashtran style kanda poha.

    21. Kanda poha

    A must-have in Maharashtrian families, you will rarely find a badlymade kanda poha dish. This simple, easy to make snack is madewith kanda (onions) and poha (flaked rice) mixed with choppedpotatoes and green chillies, sometimes even peas. Tempered withmustard seeds and garnished with fresh coriander and a squeezeof lime, it lights up dull days. And cements the many days in amarriage together.Try it at Aswad, L J Road, Opp. Shiv Sena Bhavan, Dadar (W). Tel+91 (0) 22 2445 1871

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    22. Misal pao

    Quintessentially from Pune, this rustic dish is made from a mix ofcurried sprouted lentils, topped with batata (potato) bhaji, poha (ricflakes), chivda, farsan, raw chopped onions and tomato. This hotand spicy dish is eaten with pao bread. To cut the fire, add someyogurt.

    A good version can be found at Vinay Health Home, 71/83,

    Jawahar Mansion, Fanaswadi-Thakurdwar Corner, Girgaum. Tel:+91 (0) 22 2208 1211

    23. Modak

    A Maharashtrian sweet prepared during the Ganesh festival aroundAugust, modak is offered to Lord Ganesha, the elephant-headedgod, because it is his favorite sweet. Wheat flour dough kneadedwith milk, stuffed with grated coconut and mixed with sugar or

    jaggery. Shaped like a teardrop and steamed or fried. Typically 21are made as an auspicious offering to the god and tons more forthe rest of the family. It's a pity that it's made only once a year andin this region.Some sweet shops do keep modak during the festival season but iis made of khoya (thickened milk) and is not the real thing. For thatyoull have to drop into a home that is celebrating the festival.

    24. Mutton dhansak

    Representative of Parsi cuisine, the mutton dhansak falls in thecategory of soul food. It is mutton cooked till tender in a lentil dalladen with spices. And it is eaten with browned rice topped withdeep fried onions, garnished with mutton kebabs and sprinkled with

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    a crunchy mix of chopped raw onions, raw tomatoes and corianderAnd the aftereffects are usually exhibited in a sound afternoon napThis rich dish, outside of a home, is best had at Ripon Club, 123AMG Road, Opp. Bombay University, Fountain. Find a member totake you there. Failing which, go to Britannia, Wakefield House, 11Sprott Road, Ballard Estate. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2261 5264

    Mutton sukke is without gravy.

    25. Mutton sukke

    Mumbaikers break out into sweat over this Malvani-style muttondish. Chunks of mutton on the bone marinated in a hot Malvanimasala and fried with onions and garlic and red chillies untileverything browns and the meat is tender. It can be eaten withchapattis or wad, rice flour pancakes.Try it at Jai Hind Lunch Home, 6 Mantri Corner, Gokhale RoadSouth, Dadar. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2431 4256

    26.. Patra ni machhi

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    Another top of the line Parsi dish. This is freshly caught pomfret,marinated in a chutney that includes grated coconut, green chilliesfresh coriander and mint leaves, cumin, sugar, lime and salt. It isthen wrapped in banana leaf and steamed for about ten minutes.Gently unwrap and consume quietly, close your eyes and savor theflavor of a culinary culture that will fill your senses.

    A very good patra ni machhi can be had at Ideal Corner, 12/F/G,Hornby View, Gunbow Street, Fort. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2262 1930. Onlavailable on Saturdays.

    Pao bhaji off the street.27. Pao bhaji

    This specialty dish from the by-lanes of Mumbai has mashedsteamed mixed vegetables (mainly potatoes, peas, tomatoes,onions and green pepper) cooked in spices and loads of butter. It iseaten with pao, which is shallow fried in even more butter andserved with chopped onions.. Sometimes cheese and paneer(cottage cheese) are added. People from all over India come toMumbai to eat pao bhaji.Though widely available at local restaurants, try the sinful pao bhajat Sardar, 166A Tardeo Road Junction, Opp. Bus Depot, Tardeo.Tel: +91 (0) 22 2353 0208

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    28. Prawns koliwada

    Contrary to popular belief that this dish originated on the Konkan

    coast, it is actually a very Mumbai dish and the story goes that itwas created in the Sion fishing village, or koliwada, by -- and herethe twist -- a north Indian immigrant from Punjab. These deep-friedprawns marinated in a batter of flour, spices and ginger garlic pastecan be identified by their signature red color. And they are crunchyyet melt in the mouth. Pick the smaller sized prawns, they tastebetter.

    Try the real thing at Hazara, GTB Nagar, Near the Gurudwara, Sio(W). Tel: +91 (0) 22 2409 2617

    Nalli nihari, a Muslim specialty.

    29. Nalli nihari

    The phrase "breakfast like a king" gets taken to another level whenyou dig into a plate of Muslim nalli nihari. You could probably fight awar after this power meal made of soft and tender mutton shanks ia rich, greasy gravy filled with marrow and steeped in spices, theflavors exploding with delight. A crisp roti makes for the perfectaccompaniment. Can you stomach this for breakfast?

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    The best Nalli Nihari can be had at Noor Mohammadi, 179 WazirBuilding, Abdul Hakim Noor Mohammadi Chowk, Bhendi Bazaar.Tel: +91 (0) 22 2347 6188. Just make sure you reach before noonor you may leave disappointed.

    30. Puran poli

    A festive dish made by Maharashtrians and Gujaratis especiallyduring Holi (to celebrate the end of the winter season) andDussehra (to celebrate the triumph of Lord Ram over the demon

    Raavan). It is made by simmering chana dal (yellow gram) withsugar or jaggery (molasses or gur) till it dries up, and then hand-ground to smoothen it out. Nutmeg and cardamom powders are theflavorings. Palm sized balls of this paste are stuffed into wheat floudough and rolled out to be roasted on a tawa frying pan with a littleghee (clarified butter). Do add a lot of ghee when you're eatingthem, they taste tops then.Puran polis can be found in some grocery stores but they are a

    poor mass produced version of the real thing. The real ones canonly be found in a Maharashtrian or Gujarati home.

    31. Ragda pattice

    This twin delight is a combination of ragda, soft spicy ruggedflavored chickpeas, and pattice, mashed potatoes shaped into fatpatties and fried. The ideal way is to eat it is to crush the ragda with

    the pattice and pile on the accompaniments -- finely choppedonions, tangy tamarind sauce and fiery green chutney. Mash it allup and dig in for the true flavor of Mumbai.

    A favorite street food, it is part of the chaat family and is commonlyfound all over. A good place to try it is Kailash Parbat, SheelaMahal, 1st Pasta Lane, Colaba. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2284 1972

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    Sabudana vada is fasting food.

    32. Sabudana vada

    For Maharashtrians, sabudana vada is the traditional 'upvas' orfasting food and the really hardcore folk fast up to four times aweek. And the good news is that the restaurants never fail to obligewith hot crisp sabudana vadas for those who dont have the time tomake it at home. Sago is soaked until it puffs up. Crushed boiledpotatoes, green chillies, coriander leaves and salt are kneaded in.They are then fashioned into palm-sized patties and deep fried unt

    they turn crisp and golden. And then one bite leads to another andanother.Sabudana vadas are available at most Udipi hotels and roadsidestalls. But try the ones at the R K Studio Canteen, Chembur. Theyare really special.

    33. Samosa

    It's best to bite into a hot one, hiding under a street stall during atypical Mumbai monsoon downpour. When you go through the criscrust, you meet the steaming and savory-with-a-hint-of-sour chunkof spiced potatoes and peas. Lovingly shaped into triangles anddeep fried, these calorie busters are worth the one week that youllneed on the treadmill to work it off. But a samosa can also give you

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    heart at that last leg of your day when transport is not in sight, it'sdark and there's a long way home.You can ask for Guru Kripa samosas at many stores acrossMumbai. Or go to the original Guru Kripa Hotel, 40, Guru KripaBuilding, near SIES College, Sion. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2407 1237

    Mumbai's favorite sizzler from Kobe.

    34. Sizzlers

    As kids, a sizzler was part of the "growing up in Mumbai"experience. The sight of a sizzler arriving at your table, like an oldsteam engine, sizzling and steaming and spluttering to a halt infront of you, was an exciting experience. A combination of grilledmeats and vegetables served on what looks like a hot chunk ofblack iron, with a side of mashed potatoes or fries and gravy.Sizzlers come in several vegetarian options too. Long lines atrestaurants are a testimony to its enduring popularity.Give sizzlers a try at places synonymous with the word. Such asKobe, 13/14 Sukh Sagar, Hughes Road, Opera House. Tel: +91 (022 23632174. Or Yoko, West View, S V Road, near Akbarallys,Santacruz (W). Tel: +91 (0) 22 2649 2313

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    Pork sorpatel, a Goan delicacy.

    35. Sorpatel and vindaloo

    These Goan specialties set your taste buds on fire andgrandmothers are rumored to pass out feni shots (a strong Goanbrew made from palm or cashew nuts) to douse the flames. Thesorpatel has all parts of the pig, including its blood, in the recipe.And the vindaloo is made with chunks of fatty pork meat cookedwith spices, red chillies and lots of vinegar. Ideally, they are eatenthe next day, after having spent the night soaking in all the juices

    and flavors.Try sorpatel, vindaloo and other Goan delicacies at City Kitchen,301 Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Fort. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2261 0002.Or, New Martin Hotel, 11 Glamour House, Strand Cinema Road,Colaba. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2202 9606

    36. South Indian 'meals'

    "Meals Ready" is a common sign found outside South Indianrestaurants. In front of Udipi hotels, a euphemism for all southIndian cuisine, it means vegetarian meals laid out on a thaali, astainless steel plate, or on a traditional banana leaf. A couple ofvegetables, sambar (spicy and sour lentils and vegetables boiledwith masalas and spices), rasam (a hot and fiery lentil soup-like

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    dish) and curds (yoghurt) served with heaps of rice and eaten inthat order. A non-vegetarian version of the 'Meals' can be found in'Military' hotels.Try the 'meals' at this 68-year-old haven: Rama Nayaks UdipiShree Krishna Boarding, bang outside the Matunga (E) station. Tel

    +91 (0) 22 2414 2422

    Zhunka bhakar.

    37. Zhunka bhakar

    This dish has deep roots in the farming and working classcommunities of interior Maharashtra. Considered the commonman's food, a political decision was made at the highest echelonsof government to make it available everywhere. Overnight,thousands of zhunka bhakar stalls opened, none pricing it morethan Rs 10. Traditionally, the zhunka is made using chopped oniontempered with mustard seeds and kadipatta leaves mixed withchickpea flour and is dry. It is eaten with jowar (millet) bhakri or

    roti.Try the stalls opposite Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (originallycalled Victoria Terminus) and BMC Headquarters.

    38. Varan bhaat

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    If you wanted to name one truly soul satisfying food of Mumbai citythen this would be it. The simple and truly humble dish is made bylightly tempering cooked-till-soft toor dal (a lentil) with ghee(clarified butter), turmeric and cumin powder. Served over steaminhot rice, or bhaat, it assumes magical, mythical proportions.

    A staple in Maharashtrian homes, that's really where you should beeating it. But do give Diva Maharashtracha a try. T H Kataria Marg,Mahim. Tel: +91 (0) 22 2445 4433.

    Fresh, steamed, healthy South Indian idlis.

    39. South Indian tiffin (idlis and vadas)

    What started as tiffin in British India -- a light meal that was hadbetween meals -- has become a rage all over the country. Andespecially in hard working Mumbai. Here you will find a SouthIndian tiffin available every half a kilometer and at any time of dayor night. These steamed (idlis) or fried (vadas) dumplings madewith multi-grain lentil batter are best scooped up with coconut

    chutney or dunked into hot sambar (spicy and sour lentil andvegetable soup, boiled with masalas and spices).The finest South Indian Tiffin can be found at Madras Caf (+91 (0)22 2401 4419), Anand Bhavan (+91 (0) 22 2401 5745) and IdliHouse (+91 (0) 22 3246 0111), all located around Kings Circle,Matunga.

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    The vada pao is a Mumbai icon.

    40. Vada pao

    In the vast fast food world of Mumbai, this is the tastiest "cutlet in abun" by a mile. And no, it's not available at McDonald's. EveryMumbaiker's favorite on-the-go snack, the vada pao satiatesmillions every day. And the recipe, hard to duplicate because eachstall owner has his own secret ingredient, uses a combination ofboiled potatoes mashed with fresh coriander, green chillies, a bit of

    ginger and sometimes garlic, made into palm-sized balls, dipped ina chickpea flour batter and deep fried till golden. They are stuffedinto a pao, which has been applied with a layer of spicy greenchutney and a fiery red garlic crush. Tastes best when eaten hot.It's a crime to eat vada pao anywhere else but on the street. Try

    Ashok Satam's Stall, on the Flora Fountain side of the CentralTelegraph Office (CTO), Fort.