actigum™vsx 20

7/24/2019 Actigum™VSX 20

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Actigum™VSX 20

Texture formulations even

in challenging conditions

www.cargill.com

Cargill Personal Care



2

Cargil l offers an unrivalled portfolio…

Hydrocolloids

Glycerin

Cocoa &

Chocolate

Lecithins

Proteins

Starches &

Derivatives

Polyols

Malt

Oils & Fats

Alcohol

Functional

Systems

Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions



3

…of nature derived texturizers

Xanthan

Gum

Carrageenans

Locust

Bean Gum

Lecithins

Pectins

Scleroglucan

Alginates

Starches




4

Consumer key trends

Lecithins

Health & Wellness• Consumers are

concerned by their skin

health and appearance

so want safer and anti-

aging products for them

• Natural ingredientsare perceived as safer

• Consumers want to

preserve the planet for

future generations

• Biodiversity is crucial for

the planet

Sustainability

Multifunctionality

• Consumers time is precious

so they are looking for quick

and convenient products




Challenges for Cosmetic formulators

Sustainability

• Emulsifier –free

• Resistance to high T°C

• Low pH formulations

Multi-functionality

Health &

wellness

5

• Natural ingredients

• From renewable source

• Ingredients with wide compatibility• Performance solutions in challenging

conditions

…while offering a pleasant sensorial experience to consumers




6

Challenges for Cosmetic formulators

Suspension

Viscosity

Texture/

sensory

CHALLENGES

Clarity

Stability

Sustainability




7

In a nutshell: solving formulation challenges

Lecithins

A more

sustainable

solution

• Natural origin• Renewable source

Highly

performing

• High viscosity

• Suspension

• Stabilization

even in difficult

conditions

• Resistant to high T°

• Performance at low pH




Actigum™VSX 20 A more sustainable solution is a synergistic

combination of biopolymers, which helps formulators totexture and stabilize skincare formulations even in difficult

conditions, without impacting badly the environment.

8 Actigum™VSX 20: texture formulat ions, even in challenging condit ions



Recipe

Xanthan gumScleroglucan

Produced by the aerobic

fermentation of sugars by the

fungus Sclerotium rolfsii

Cargill Pharma & Personal care

Actigum™ VSX 20 A more sustainable solution

Produced by the aerobic

fermentation of sugars by the

bacterium Xanthomonas

campestris.




Recipe

• Natural origin polysaccharides

• Produced by the aerobic fermentation of sugars

• Renewable source

• Biodegradable

• Cold processable

Actigum™ VSX 20 A more sustainable solution




Recipe

• Non-ionic

• Excellent compatibility

(electrolytes, surfactants, alcohol …)

• Clear gel & pleasant

sensory

• High yield value

• Resistance to high T°C

• Usable in a wide range of pH

Actigum™VSX 20 A high-performing synergistic combination

• Anionic

• Clear gel

• Wide compatibility

• Electrolytes

• Alcohol (up to 60%)

• Stable over a wide range of

temperatures and pHs

• Synergies with other

polymers such as Locust Bean

Gum, Sclerotium gum, Guar gum

+

Xanthan gumScleroglucan




• Synergistic combination of biopolymers

• Texturizing /Suspending agent

• Stabilizer

• Stable in extreme conditions of pH and

temperature

• Clear gel / Pleasant sensory

• Moisturizing enhancer

• From fermentation


Sclerotium gum and xanthan gum

Actigum™VSX 20The texturizer for challenging conditions

INCI name

Description & properties

Raw materials




13

Unique stabilizing

propertiesStabilization of :

• Sprayable, fluid emulsions

• Suspensions

Actigum™VSX 20 A high performing synergistic combination




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Unique synergistic

combination, offering

an increased

viscosity or lower

cost in use

Comparison of Viscosity obtained in a body milk formulation

Texturizer tested

in the

formulation

Viscosity at

1 s-1

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

CS 11 0,10% cx911 0,1% actigum VSX20 0,1% actigum VSX20 0,08%

Xanthan gum0.1%Scleroglucan0.1% Ac tigum™VSX 20 0.08%

Actigum™VSX 20 0.1%

Actigum™VSX 20High performing synergistic combination




15

A unique

multifunctionalsolution:

• Immediate

• Long lasting• Hydration enhancement

Actigum™ VSX 20 A high performing synergistic combination




Performance,

even in challenging conditions




17

Refreshing mineral sunspray

with Actigum™VSX 20

• Stabilization of a high content of

mineral filter

• Sprayable

• Low viscosity formulation

Actigum™ VSX 20High performing synergistic combination




18

Comparative rheological profi le between sun care products

Unique stability

• Storage

• Exposition to h igh t°C

Beach

Warm countries

Actigum™VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Stability to High T°C

After exposure to high temperature both

ActigumTM products are recovering their

viscosity




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When textured with Actigum™VSX 20, the viscosity of the formulation is

not impacted by acidic pH.

• Stable viscosity in awide range of pH

• Pleasant texture

• No need to neutralise

Actigum™VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Texturizing at low pH

0

500

1000

1500

2000

2500

3000

3500

4000

2 3 4 5 6

Amaze XT (0.25%)

ultrez 30 (0.1%)

Actigum VSX 20 (0.5%)

pH

Viscosity (Cps)


Dehydroxanthan Gum (0.25%)

Carbomer (0.1%)



20

Actigum VSX 20

thickens efficiently

even:

• at low pH

• In presence of

electrolytes

Actigum™ VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Texturizing at low pH

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700

800

900

Amaze XT (0.4%) Actigum VSX 20(0.5%)

Carbopol Ultrez 30(0.9%)

V i s c o s i t y ( C p s )

Milk with 5% AHA- Viscosi ty in function oftexturizers

Formulation at pH: 4.25

Brookfield RVT-100 RPM


Dehydroxanthan

Gum (0.4%)

Carbomer (0.9%)



21


Ingredients INCI Name %

Demi. Water Water (Aqua) qsp

Actigum VSX 20Sclerotium gum (and) xanthan

gum0.5

C*HiForm A12747Hydroxypropyl starch

phosphate3

Refined Glycerin Glycerin 2

Sisterna SP70C Sucrose stearate 1.5

Caprylic capric triglyceride Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 15

Citric acid solution (20%) Citric acid Adjust at pH=4.5

Complexe sorbate & benzoateAqua (and) sodium benzoate

(and ) potassium sorbate1

AHA Acides de fruits

Water (and) Vaccinium myrtillus extract

(and) Saccharum officinarum extract (and)

Acer saccharum extract (and) Citrus

aurantium dulcis extract (and) Citrus

medica limonum extract.

5

Anti-agingcream with

5% AHA




22





gum0.5


phosphate3













5

Anti-agingcream with

5% AHAIngredients INCI Name %


Carbomer Carbomer 0.9

Satiaxane CX 911 Xanthan gum 0.225













5




23

0.01

0.1

1

10

100

1 10 100 1000 10000

V i s c o s i t y ( P a . s

)

Shear rate (s-1)

Cream wi th 5% AHA- Flow curves

Actigum VSX 20 (0.5%) +C*HiForm A122747 (3%)

Carbopol Ultrez 30 (0.9%)+ Xanthan gum (0.225%)

Actigum™VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Texturizing at low pH

• High viscosity at rest

• Shear-thinning

behaviour

• Richness at

application

In the jar

At delivery

At applicat ion


Carbomer (0.9%)



24





gum0.15


phosphate 6

Glycerin Glycerin 15

Complexe sorbate &

benzoate

Aqua (and) sodium benzoate


Exfoliating Beads ”Exfoliating agent” 2

AHA

Water (and) Vaccinium myrtillu s extract

(and) Saccharum offici narum extract

(and) Acer saccharum extract (and)

Citrus aurantium dulci s extract (and)

Citrus medica limonum extract.

10

Fragrance Fragrance 0.2

Low pH

Resurfacing

Facial Peel with

10% AHA




25

4 MONTH – 45°C

Phase Raw material %

A

Water 97.5

ActigumTM VSX20 0.5

Preservative 1

Beads 1

• Unique suspending

properties even at

low pH• Clear gel

• Pleasant sensory

Actigum™ VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Suspending at low pH

ph 2 ph 3 ph 4 ph 5




26

Phase Ingredients INCI name %

A

Demi. Water Water (Aqua) Qsp

Actigum VSX 20Sclerotium gum (and)

xanthan gum0.65

Glycerin Glycerin 2

B


Avobenzone ButylMethoxydibenzoylmethane

3

EthylHexyl

Methoxycinnamate

EthylHexyl

Methoxycinnamate7

Benzophenone-3 Benzophenone-3 7

Floramac 10Ethyl Macadamiate (and)

Tocopherol (and) Malic acid5

Caprylic capric

triglyceride Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 5

C Geogard 221Dehydroacetic acid (and)

Bezyl alcohol (and) Water1

D C*EmTex 06328Sodium Starch Octenyl

Succinate2

28.5%

Oil

phase

Actigum™ VSX 20The candidate for difficult condit ions – Emulsifier-free

Stable 1 Monthat 45°C

Stability still on going




27

In a nutshell: solving formulation challenges

Lecithins

A sustainable

solution

• Natural origin


Highly

performing

• High viscosity• Suspension

• Stabilization

even in difficult

conditions

• Resistant to high T°

• Performance at low pH




28

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actigum™vsx 20

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