baraadsar trek
TRANSCRIPT
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TREK BARAADSAR
February 2009 Outlook TRAVEL92 Outlook TRAVELLER February 2009
T
here is a certain mystique attached to high-
altitude lakes. Mountain terrain tends to be any-thing but flat and when you come across a lake, you are left wondering how it was formed. I waswinding up a trek in the Obra Valley, in westernGarhwal, when I first heard of it. I asked for moreinformation, and our support team of locals told meabout what they unanimously considered the loveli-est spot in the regionBaraadsar Lake.
Baraadsar Lake is located at a height of 4,400m
between the Rupin and Supin valleys. This region isclose to the Uttarakhand-Himachal Pradesh borderand is approached by driving north from Mussooriefor 7-8hrs.The best-known valley in the region is thepretty Har-ki-dun, loved for its wide expanse, flower-strewn meadows and majestic mountain views. Thevalley east of Har-ki-dun is Obra, and further east arethe Supin and Rupin valleys. All of these present
excellent trekking opportunities including severalpasses to the north, leading into Kinnaur in HimachalPradesh. Our plan was to approach Baraadsar Lakefrom the Rupin valley and exit from the Supin valley.We were seven in all, including five women, all rela-
tively new to trekking. It was mid-September whenwe assembled at Netwar, which is located on theconfluence of the Rupin and Supin rivers. Our firstnight was at the Forest Rest House at Netwar. It was
a long night, with the leeches in the garden and the
palm-sized spiders inside providing some exciteThe next morning, we abandoned our SUVs andthe local jeeps. We began the trek from D(1,500m), 10km from Netwar; above, the skyovercast with rain clouds. Here a villager stoppwanting to know where we were heading, and hearing Baraadsar, he requested us to say a pwhen we reached the lake, so that the heavy rathe last few days would let up. It seemed tha
local folk considered the lake sacred.
Maninder Kohli traces a path between the Rupin and Supin valleys to find a lakethat doesnt easily give up its secrets
HIGHLAND WATERS
We walked past well-kept
mountain villages and small
fields. We requested a vil-
lager to give us chillies from
her fields; without a
moments hesitation, the
family plucked enough to last
us the trek, refusing to
accept any money in return.
By late afternoon we re
Bitri (2,500m), the last v
lage on the trail. The vil
temple with its exquisit
architecture dominated
landscape. We camped a
metre further in a large
meadow which doubles
a childrens playground.DAY 1MANINDERKOHLI
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February 2009 Outlook TRAVEL94 Outlook TRAVELLER February 2009
BARAADSAR
Through day two, the trail moved
through fairly dense forest sections
as we gradually gained height. We
could see the Rupin river on its
meandering course, winding on the
valley floor far below, flowing to the
west as we continued to head north.
We came across small meadows and
streams, which were great spots to
take a break by.
The continuous rain had washed
the area into a bright green land-
scape. This was the longest stage on
our trek, and it was with great relief
that, late into the evening with the
setting sun as a backdrop, we saw
our tents in the distance.
Our day two camp was at
Masundha Dhar (3,600m),
which is a high point on the
ridge dividing the Rupin and
Supin valleys. This was an
exposed campsite with
breathtaking views in all
directions. Towards the
north, clearly in view, was
the Baraadsar Ridge; acro
the Rupin, we could see th
west peaks of Himachal.
Towards the east, we caug
glimpses of a cluster of
peaks across the Har-ki-du
valley of which Kalanag
(6,387m) seemed the mo
prominent.
DAY 2
Photographsby MAN
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February 2009 Outlook TRAVEL96 Outlook TRAVELLER February 2009
Early morning views from Masundha
Dhar were special. Towards the east,
the first rays started to hit the
peaks. The refracted beams did
something special to the
Swargarohini (6,247m)turning the
air around the summit a bright
orange and imbuing it with a halo.
This is a mountain massif with four
separate peaks. It is a dramatic
mountain: its north face drops
2,000m in less than 2km and itssouth face is only marginally less
steepmaking it a challenging climb.
Thanks to our excellent location, we
were able to see all the four peaks
of the mountain clearly.
BARAADSAR
At 3,500m, we were above
the tree line and vegetationhad thinned out considerably.
The hard work on day two
meant that we had achieved
most of the height gain
required, and we now moved
on flat sections along the
Rupin-Supin ridge. At the
head of the Supin Valley w
could see views of the largmeadow, Vishkhopdi, vish
being poison and khopdi
meaning brain. According
legend, those who visit th
meadow in summer becom
intoxicated from the scent
the flowers there.
DAY 3
MANINDERKOHLI
PERCYFERNANDEZ
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February 2009 Outlook TRAVEL98 Outlook TRAVELLER February 2009
In the afternoon, we found our-
selves in the middle of a massive
hailstorm. By late evening it had
abated and it seemed that peace
would prevail on the saddle. We
were quite wrong. Around 9pm, just
as we had settled into our tents,
looking forward for some much-
needed rest, gale winds started,
threatening to blow our tents and us
down into the valley below. Further
reinforcements in the form of heavy
stones were required to keep our
tents and blood pressure down.
Finally, towards the middle of the
night, it all went quiet and we were
able to get some sleep.
Day four was one of the high-
lights of the trek. We walked
along grassy slopes through
the day, with the recurring
feeling that we were in para-
dise. As we moved closer to
the Baraadsar Ridge, we
noticed there had been a lib-
eral spray of snow: the next
days climb seemed daunting.
By early afternoon, we
reached the base of the
Baraadsar Ridge from where
the final climb to the lake
starts. We were at Camp Dev
Bhasa (3,640m), which we
nicknamed the saddle due
to its U-shaped appearance.
DAY 4
BARAADSAR
Photographsby PERCYFERNANDEZ
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BARAADSAR
February 2009 Outlook TRAVELLE100 Outlook TRAVELLER February 2009
The sight in front of us was stun-
ning. We were looking into a mas-
sive bowl-shaped expanse that
resembled a cauldron. There were
high ridges in all directions, and in
the middle, lower down in the basin,
the Baraadsar Lake. In the back-
ground beyond the ridges, mountain
peaks, magnificently spread out as
far as eye could see.
The minute they caught sight ofthe lake, our team of local porters
started to pray and lit agarbatis in
offering. Their faith in the lake was
strong; it was their unshakeable
belief that no prayer goes unan-
swered here.
Starting early at 6am the
next morning, we made good
progress for it was fine
weather. By 8am we were at
4,000m, where the snowline
began. Around 9am the sun
started to hit the slopes,
turning the snow into slush,
slowing us down consider-
ably. The only benefit in mov-
ing in knee-deep snow was
that, on the steeper sections,
we were comfortable, not
needing to be roped up. By
10.30am, we reached the top
of the ridge at 4,400m and
got our first peek at what lay
beyond.
DAY 5
PERCYFERNANDEZ
MAN
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February 2009 Outlook TRAVELLE102 Outlook TRAVELLER February 2009
GETTING THERE The best option is to take a
night train to Dehradun and drive to Netwar via
Mussoorie, Purola and Mori. A four-wheel drive
costs about Rs 4,000 and takes about 8hrs.
PREPARING This is a moderate trek, but good
fitness levels always help. While the final climb
to the Baraadsar Ridge is up a settled trail, the
route can get complicated if you are walking in
snow. Ideally, you should not find snow in June,
July and August. It is essential to carry a warm
sleeping bag and a stable, well-secured tent.
ITINERARY Day 1: Netwar to Dhaula (1,500m),
10km drive and trek to Bitri (2,500m), 12km/6hrs;
Day 2: Trek from Bitri (2,500m) to Masundha Dhar
(3,600m), 16km/8hrs; Day 3: Trek from Masundha
Dhar (3,600m) to Dhalka Dhar (3,500m),
5km/4hrs; Day 4: Trek from Dhalka Dhar (3,500m)to Dev Bhasa (3,650m), 4km/4hrs; Day 5: Trek
from Dev Bhasa (3,650m) to Baraadsar Ridge
(4,400m) and return to meadow below Dev Bhasa
(3,250m), 12km/9hrs; Day 6: Trek through Rehla,
Phitari to Dhara (2,000m) at the confluence of
the Obra and Supin, 15km/7hrs; Day 7: Dhara
(2,000m) to Jakhol, the road head (2,200m),
5km/3hrs. Drive another 22km to Netwar.
TIP To make the stages of the trek slightly more
comfortable, there is an option to camp lower
down in the forest rather than at Masundha Dhar
on Day 2. Based on the weather and snow condi-
tions, you can also camp at Baraadsar Lake but
youd need an additional day to do this.
TOUR OPERATORS We used Har Ki Dun
Protection & Mountaineering Association for
all logistic support and found the team wellorganised.COST Rs 9,000 per person (Netwar-
Baraadsar-Netwar). CONTACT Chain Singh Rawat,
09412918140, www. harkidun.org TEAM We
were a team from the Delhi chapter of the 80-
year-old Himalayan Club. For more information
about activities of the mountaineering club, see
www.himalayanclub.org
T H E I N F O R M A T I O Ni
On our journey down through
the Supin Valley, I reflected
on the local belief surround-
ing Baraadsar Lake. I remem-
bered the man we had met at
the start of our trek who had
requested us to pray for the
rain to let up. We were in the
region for three more days as
we made our way back
and there was not a dro
rain. Apart from being o
whelmingly beautiful,
haps there is somethin
sacred about the wate
Baraadsar... Perhaps ou
had indeed been divine
blessed.DAY 6
BARAADSARPERCY