chapter v manufacturing table of contents v manufacturing.pdffabric defects 1. dyeing/printing a....

Chapter V MANUFACTURING

Table of Contents Page Summary………………………………………………………. 1 Section 1 Product Criteria…………………………………….. 1.1-1.3 Stages of Inspection Defect Classification Section 2 Product Quality Standards……………………….. 2.1-2.3 Summary Product Quality Manual…… 2.2, 1-26 Measurement Manual………. 2.3, 1-108 Section 3 Quality Assurance……………………………………. 3.1-3.20 Summary Raw Materials Testing Acceptance Sampling Approved Vendors Section 4 Quality Procedures…………………………………………… 4.1-4.22 Overview Fabric Testing Procedures Trim Testing Procedures Product Testing-CPSIA General Conformity Certification Procedure for Flammability Standard 16CFR Part 1610 Substandards and Imperfects Procedures Washdown/Color Standards Fabric Inspection Procedures In Process Inspection Procedures Final Audit Procedures 5/1/07, Revised 5/18/09

Chapter V MANUFACTURING

Manufacturing Quality Products Providing quality products and service to our customers is the ultimate goal of Woolrich. That goal is reinforced in our corporate mission statement, in our quality statement, in our customer service practices, in our sourcing strategies, and in our quality assurance practices. The primary criterion used to appraise vendors is the consistent delivery of quality products. Woolrich works hand in hand with our vendors to ensure conformance to our high quality standards. All potential vendors are required to participate in an evaluation process, and obtain approved vendor status prior to being selected as a manufacturing source for Woolrich products (refer to Chapter II).

Chapter V: Manufacturing Page 1

5/1/07

Section 1 Product Criteria

Quality Control The vendor is responsible for controlling the quality of Woolrich products. We strongly recommend that a totally integrated quality system be adopted throughout the manufacturing facility. Final audit of finished products may be sufficient to remove defective products before shipping; however, it is not sufficient to improve quality during the manufacturing process, thus improving outgoing quality. Quality performance and the costs associated with manufacturing a quality product can only be improved through continuous attention to quality from the first manufacturing process to the last. Inspecting work in process minimizes the need for repairs, rework, returns, and high rates of seconds. Detailed procedures for establishing and maintaining an integrated quality system can be found in Section 4 of this chapter. Stages of Inspection In Process Inspection Because quality can not be inspected into a product, quality control begins in line with the operators. Every operator must understand Woolrich quality standards and be held fully accountable for the quality of their operation. The vendor quality team and the Woolrich Quality Assurance Department will work together to define specific quality standards. The vendor must maintain complete and accurate records of in line quality inspections. These records must be available to Woolrich upon request.

Chapter V: Manufacturing Page 1.1

5/1/07


End of Line Inspection Products should be inspected at the end of the sewing line to further safeguard against defective garments. The vendor must maintain complete and accurate records of end of the line quality inspections. These records must be available to Woolrich upon request. Final Audit Packed product should be audited before shipping to Woolrich. The audit should comply with the ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 sampling plan, using a 2.5% acceptable quality level. The sample size pulled for audit must be 100% inspected and measured. All products must comply with all construction, labeling and packaging specifications. The vendor must maintain complete and accurate records of all final audits. These records must be available to Woolrich upon request.


5/1/07


Defect Classification Defects occur in varying degrees. Price points, end use, materials and construction of a product dictate the levels of consumer acceptance. The following classifications of defects are used by Woolrich to determine acceptability of a shipment. Minor Defects 1. Does not affect wearability, serviceability, or life of a product. 2. Will not cause any objection if noticed by a consumer. 3. Will not affect comfort or fit of the product. On occasion, concessions are made by the Woolrich QA area to accept minor defects. However, Woolrich QA will reject shipments containing minor defects if these defects occur frequently within an individual product or within all products contained in the sample. Major Defects 1. Would make product unusable, may adversely affect serviceability, or may

shorten the life of a product. 2. Will be clearly noticeable to consumers, resulting in a return. 3. Will possibly affect comfort or fit of the product. Major defects are always rejected. The Woolrich Quality Assurance Department is the ultimate decision-maker in determining the acceptance or rejection of a shipment. This decision is always based on finished products received at the Distribution Centers.


5/1/07

Section 2 Product Quality Standards

Summary Product quality standards and measurement criteria are established for each product type marketed by Woolrich. The standards included in this section are designed to be guidelines for the vendor to assist in consistently producing a quality product. Failure to comply with these standards will result in rejected shipments, substandard products and chargebacks (refer to Chapter VI). Woolrich Quality Assurance makes all final decisions regarding the acceptance or rejection of products, and their disposition. Any questions regarding the guidelines included in the Product Quality Manual and the Measurement Manual should be directed to Woolrich Quality Assurance. The Product Quality Manual and the Measurement Manual are “stand alone” sections, complete with product-specific quality standards, and area-specific measurement guidelines. Each quality inspector and auditor in your facility should be provided a copy of this information. Copies should also be readily accessible to supervisors and operators.


5/1/07


WOOLRICH, INC.

PRODUCT QUALITY MANUAL


5/1/07


Bottoms

Bottoms

Pants and Shorts

Inspection Failure Criteria……… 2

Fabric Defects………………. 2

Construction Defects………. 2-5

Skirts Inspection Failure Criteria……… 6



Product Quality Manual Page 1

5/1/07


Bottoms – Pants, Shorts Inspection Failure Criteria All defects are considered major defects. They will cause a garment to be rejected during audit. Final acceptance/rejection of garments is at the discretion of Woolrich Quality Assurance. Fabric Defects

1. Dyeing/Printing a. Uneven, side to side b. Fading or shade bars c. Misprints, off-center print

2. Miscellaneous a. surface holes, blemishes, or weakness that may cause holes b. slubs, runs, mispicks c. snagged/pulled threads or yarn d. heavy machine marks, barre e. broken yarn f. foreign materials g. thin or thick places h. wrong side out i. incompatibility with care instructions j. noncompliance to performance standards (Apparel Lab testing) k. nap running in different directions

Construction Defects

1. Stitching a. tight stitches that break under normal pressure b. broken stitches c. any skipped stitched on chain stitch d. more than 1 skipped stitch/seam on lock stitch e. exposed bobbin stitch on lock stitch f. one cut, skipped or broken stitch ¼” or longer on serge stitch g. more than ¼” serge run off h. needle picks/holes i. uneven double topstitching j. thread color not matching fabric or as specified

Product Quality Manual

Page 2 5/1/07


Bottoms – Pants, Shorts

2. Seams a. twisted legs more than 1” for inseams less than 22” in length b. twisted legs more than 1 ½” for inseams 22” or more in length c. inside overfolds not trimmed flush d. outside overfolds e. grin through f. crooked, puckered, curled, pleated, wavy, ropey seams g. open or burst seams h. stitches per inch ± 2 from number specified (all operations) i. outside raw edges j. foreign objects caught in seams (i.e. soabars, extra threads) k. Felled Seams i. run off on outside 2 or more stitches ii. run off on inside 3 or more stitches

iii. margin greater than 3/16” (over crotch ¼”)

3. Hems a. puckered, twisted, ropy hem b. start and/or finish stitch not tied in on chain stitch c. pleats or puckers d. sideseam turned wrong way in hem e. uneven hems more than ½” back to front

4. Waist

Banded a. uneven band end more than 3/16” b. raw edges c. band ends slanted more than ¼” d. band more than ¼” high or low e. more than one skipped stitch on top of band f. “ears” on band ends more than 1/8” g. body fabric caught in waistband stitches h. band not properly attached to body i. missing belt loops j. crooked belt loops k. raw edges on belt loops l. ends of belt loops more than ¼” long m. wrong number of belt loops n. misplaced belt loops o. belt loops insecurely sewn Elastic a. twisted elastic b. elastic too small c. puckered


5/1/07 Page 3


Bottoms – Pants, Shorts 5. Pockets

a. ravels or tail stitches b. rolled edges longer than 1” c. raw edges on front pockets d. raw edges larger than 3/16” on back pockets e. uneven ± ¼”from pocket to pocket f. tilted g. incorrect shape h. not matched to front of garment (plaids, stripes) i. back pockets slanted or curved more than 1/8”

6. Buttons/Buttonholes, Zippers, Other Attachments a. buttonholes unopened or missing b. buttons, snaps, toggles, etc. improperly attached or missing c. buttons, snaps, toggles, etc. not securely sewn d. thin buttons (less than 1/16” thick) e. Woolrich logo buttons/snaps upside down f. snaps not crimped properly g. buttonholes too large, too small h. broken stitches at buttonhole i. excessive threads at buttonhole j. exposed or wavy zippers, unless specified k. defective parts l. parts set improperly, backwards, twisted m. findings did not pass lab testing

7. Labeling (applies to main labels, style/care/content labels, UPC tags, and

any other labels on finished garments) a. incorrect b. misplaced, not centered, as specified c. crooked d. handwritten e. illegible f. incorrect style number on tickets and or tags g. incorrect color code h. labels not caught by attaching stitch

8. Threads

a. excessive threads b. loose threads c. exposed thread tails longer than ¼” d. threads on inside of garment longer than ½”

Product Quality Manual 5/1/07 Page 4


Bottoms – Pants, Shorts

9. Pressing a. scorch marks or burns b. excessive wrinkling c. dampness d. press marks from clamps or other holding devices e. improper pressing (creased, etc.)

10. Soilage

a. dirt, oil spots, ink, stains, etc. b. rings left after cleaning soils

11. Miscellaneous

a. staples left in garments b. mismatched plaids, stripes, when specified to match c. missing bartacks d. tackit holes e. feed dog marks left by presser foot f. color off standard


5/1/07


Bottoms – Skirts Inspection Failure Criteria All defects are considered major defects. They will cause a garment to be rejected during audit. Final acceptance/rejection of garments is at the discretion of Woolrich Quality Assurance. Fabric Defects




1. Stitching a. tight stitches that break under normal pressure b. broken stitches c. any skipped stitched on chain stitch d. more than 1 skipped stitch/seam on lock stitch e. exposed bobbin stitch on lock stitch f. one cut, skipped or broken stitch ¼” or longer on serge stitch g. more than ¼” serge run off h. needle picks/holes i. uneven double topstitching j. thread color not matching fabric or as specified


5/1/07 Page 6


Bottoms – Skirts

2. Seams a. outside overfolds b. grin through c. crooked, puckered, curled, pleated, wavy, ropy seams d. open or burst seams e. stitches per inch ± 2 from number specified (all operations) f. outside raw edges g. foreign objects caught in seams (i.e. soabars, extra threads) h. Felled Seams i. run off on outside 2 or more stitches ii. run off on inside 3 or more stitches

iii. margin greater than 3/16” (over crotch ¼”)

3. Hems a. puckered, twisted, ropy hem b. start and/or finish stitch not tied in on chain stitch c. pleats or puckers d. sideseam turned wrong way in hem e. uneven hems more than ½” back to front

4. Waist

Banded a. uneven band end more than 3/16” b. raw edges c. band ends slanted more than ¼”

d. band more than ¼” high or low e. more than one skipped stitch on top of band f. “ears” on band ends more than 1/8” g. body fabric caught in waistband stitches h. band not properly attached to body i. missing belt loops j. crooked belt loops k. raw edges on belt loops l. ends of belt loops more than ¼” long m. wrong number of belt loops n. misplaced belt loops o. belt loops insecurely sewn

Elastic a. twisted elastic b. elastic too small c. no elasticity d. puckered



Bottoms – Skirts 5. Pockets

a. ravels or tail stitches b. rolled edges longer than 1” c. raw edges on front pockets d. raw edges larger than 3/16” on back pockets e. uneven ± ¼”from pocket to pocket f. tilted g. incorrect shape h. not matched to front of garment (plaids, stripes) i. back pockets slanted or curved more than 1/8”

6. Buttons/Buttonholes, Zippers, Other Attachments a. buttonholes unopened or missing b. buttons, snaps, toggles, etc. improperly attached or missing c. buttons, snaps, toggles, etc. not securely sewn d. thin buttons (less than 1/16” thick) e. Woolrich logo buttons/snaps upside down f. Snaps not crimped properly g. buttonholes too large, too small h. broken stitches at buttonhole i. excessive threads at buttonhole j. exposed or wavy zippers, unless specified k. defective parts l. parts set improperly, backwards, twisted m. findings did not pass lab testing

7. Labeling (applies to main labels, style/care/content labels, UPC tags, and any other labels on finished garments)

a. incorrect b. misplaced, not centered, as specified c. crooked d. handwritten e. illegible f. incorrect style number on tickets and or tags g. incorrect color code h. labels not caught by attaching stitch

8. Threads

a. excessive threads b. loose threads c. exposed thread tails longer than ¼” d. threads on inside of garment longer than ½”


5/1/07 Page 8


Bottoms – Skirts


10. Soilage


11. Miscellaneous a. staples left in garments b. mismatched plaids, stripes, when specified to match c. missing bartacks d. tackit holes e. feed dog marks left by presser foot f. color off standard


Page 9 5/1/07


Shirts

Shirts

Woven Shirts




Shirts

Knit Shirts





Page 10 5/1/07


Shirts – Woven Shirts

Inspection Failure Criteria All defects are considered major defects. They will cause a garment to be rejected during audit. Final acceptance/rejection of garments is at the discretion of Woolrich Quality Assurance. Fabric Defects




1. Stitching a. tight stitches that break under normal pressure b. broken stitches c. excessively loose stitches d. skipped stitches on chain stitch e. more than 1 skipped stitch on lock stitch f. uneven double top stitching g. decorative stitching uneven or not uniformly spaced h. ends of stitching not back stitched, tied in, or securely caught i. irregular or unevenly gauged edge stitching j. needle picks/holes


5/1/07 Page 11



2. Seams a. crooked, puckered, curled, pleated, wavy, ropy seams b. grin through c. stitches per inch ± 1 from specified d. raw edges – inside and outside e. open or burst seams f. uneven seam margins g. wrong side out

3. Hems a. puckered, twisted, ropy hem b. start and/or finish stitch not tied in on chain stitch c. pleats or puckers d. if pressed, stitch width in excess of 1/8”

4. Pockets a. horizontal or vertical alignment more than ¼” off specification b. side edge or pocket exposed beyond side edge of flap c. raw edge on flap turn under exposed more than 1/8” d. excessive puckers , pleats e. poorly shaped flap f. edge seam of flap liner rolled/exposed to front more than 1/32” g. edge seam of flap shell rolled/exposed to back 1/16” or more h. misaligned button or buttonhole, seriously affecting appearance i. omitted backtack or bartack j. exposed drill holes k. underside of flap twisted or tight, causing fullness, twisting or curling l. punched out ends or raw edges m. center of flap off set ¼” or more n. flap topstitch variation more than 1/16” o. visible ears or ravels on flap p. run off more than 2 stitches on flap at start and stop q. high/low pockets or flaps more than ¼” r. no run off for contrasting thread s. more than 2 stitch run off for matching thread t. pockets not sewn equal distance from button centerline – more than 3/8” on

sizes small and medium; ½” on sizes large and extra large u. pocket ears on bottom corner of pocket more than 1/16” for light weight

fabrics; 1/8” for heavy weight fabrics v. pocket bartack more than 3/32” from top of pocket w. edge margin of stitching not uniform on front pockets x. tipped or slanted flaps on front pockets


5/1/07 Page 12



5. Cuffs a. topstitch varying more than ¼” b. button/buttonhole/snap causing bulging or distortion when closed c. excessive puckering or guttering d. cuff noses in excess of 3/16” on buttonhole side; ¼” button side e. pleats less than ¼” f. fullness on underply of cuff up to ¼” g. cuff run seam showing to front h. insecure backtack i. raw edges j. cuff width uneven more than 1/8”


7. Plackets

a. plackets crooked more than ¼” from top to bottom b. placket length ± ¼” from specified c. placket width uneven/distorted from top to bottom d. placket sewn off-grain e. raw edges f. interlining missing, when specified g. missing tack at v point neck opening h. hole caused by insufficient bite at point of v neck opening i. excessive fullness or pucker at bottom of placket j. on zipper fronts, raw edge extending more than 1/16” beyond zipper tape k. missing bartacks at ends of zippers, when specified l. 1/16” difference in edge margins m. excessive fullness between needles n. plaids mismatched on front placket more than ¼”


5/1/07 Page 13



8. Collar and Neck a. collar off quarter or skewed more than ¼” b. noses on collarband ends more than 1/8” on buttonhole side; more than ¼” on

button side c. collar points not fully turned out d. collar points improperly shaped e. collar points mismatched ± 1/8” f. collar band or undercollar showing above top collar g. pucker, pleats in neck trim h. neck opening off center i. collar not securely backtacked at both ends j. topstitch collar edge margin more than 1/16” from specified k. missing collar stays l. collar points punched out m. raw edge

9. Labeling (applies to main labels, style/care/content labels, UPC tags, and any other labels on finished garments) a. incorrect b. misplaced, not centered, as specified c. crooked d. handwritten e. illegible f. incorrect style number on tickets and or tags g. incorrect color code h. labels not caught by attaching stitch

10. Threads a. excessive threads b. loose threads c. exposed thread tails longer than ¼” d. threads on inside of garment longer than ½”



5/1/07 Page 14


Shirts – Woven Shirts 12. Soilage


13. Miscellaneous




Shirts – Knit Shirts Inspection Failure Criteria All defects are considered major defects. They will cause a garment to be rejected during audit. Final acceptance/rejection of garments is at the discretion of Woolrich Quality Assurance. Fabric Defects






5/1/07 Page 16


Shirts – Knit Shirts


3. Hems puckered, twisted, ropy hem start and/or finish stitch not tied in on chain stitch pleats or puckers if pressed, stitch width in excess of 1/8”

4. Pockets a. noticeably uneven in size, shape, location b. uneven, improperly shaped flaps c. sewn in pleats, puckers d. mismatch on front e. mismatched stripes/plaids – vertically and/or horizontally f. variation in hem from side to side no more than 1/8” g. missing or insecure buttons or snaps, when specified h. missing or insecure Woolrich tab i. Woolrich tab more than ½” from specified j. visible ears k. center of flap offset more than ¼” l. pocket ears on bottom corner of pocket more than 1/16” m. pocket opening excessively loose or tight n. raw corners/holes on slit pockets o. missing bartacks when specified p. minimum of 10 stitches per inch, sides and bottom of pocket q. run off more than 2 stitches on sides and bottom of pocket





6. Buttons/Buttonholes, Zippers, Other Attachments

a. buttonholes unopened or missing b. buttons, snaps, toggles, etc. improperly attached or missing c. buttons, snaps, toggles, etc. not securely sewn d. thin buttons (less than 1/16” thick) e. Woolrich logo buttons/snaps upside down f. snaps not crimped properly g. buttonholes too large, too small h. broken stitches at buttonhole i. excessive threads at buttonhole j. exposed or wavy zippers, unless specified k. defective parts l. parts set improperly, backwards, twisted m. findings did not pass lab testing

7. Plackets

a. plackets crooked more than ¼” from top to bottom b. placket length ± ¼” from specified c. placket width uneven/distorted from top to bottom d. placket sewn off-grain e. raw edges f. interlining missing, when specified g. missing tack at v point neck opening h. hole caused by insufficient bite at point of v neck opening i. excessive fullness or pucker at bottom of placket j. on zipper fronts, raw edge extending more than 1/16” beyond zipper tape k. missing bartacks at ends of zippers, when specified l. 1/16” difference in edge margins m. excessive fullness between needles n. plaids mismatched on front placket more than ¼”


5/1/07 Page 18




button side c. collar points not fully turned out d. collar points improperly shaped e. collar points mismatched ± 1/8” f. collar band or undercollar showing above top collar g. pucker, pleats in neck trim h. neck opening off center i. collar not securly backtacked at both ends j. topstitch collar edge margin more than 1/16” from specified k. collar points punched out l. raw edge


a. incorrect b. misplaced, not centered, as specified c. crooked d. handwritten e. illegible f. incorrect style number on tickets and or tags g. incorrect color code h. labels not caught by attaching stitch i. label off center in back of neck ± 1/8”






12. Soilage a. dirt, oil spots, ink, stains, etc. b. rings left after cleaning soils

13. Miscellaneous



5/1/07


Outerwear

Outerwear





5/1/07


Outerwear Inspection Failure Criteria All defects are considered major defects. They will cause a garment to be rejected during audit. Final acceptance/rejection of garments is at the discretion of Woolrich Quality Assurance. Fabric Defects


2. Miscellaneous

a. surface holes, blemishes, or weakness that may cause holes b. slubs, runs, mispicks c. snagged/pulled threads or yarn d. heavy machine marks, barre e. broken yarn f. foreign materials g. thin or thick places h. wrong side out i. incompatibility with care instructions j. noncompliance to performance standards (Apparel Lab testing) k. nap running in different directions





Outerwear


3. Hems a. puckered, twisted, ropy hem b. start and/or finish stitch not tied in on chain stitch c. pleats or puckers d. if pressed, stitch width in excess of 1/8”

4. Pockets a. noticeably uneven in size, shape, location b. uneven, improperly shaped flaps c. sewn in pleats, puckers d. mismatch on front e. mismatched stripes/plaids – vertically and/or horizontally f. variation in hem from side to side no more than 1/8” g. missing or insecure buttons or snaps, when specified h. missing or insecure Woolrich tab i. Woolrich tab more than ½” from specified j. visible ears k. center of flap offset more than ¼” l. pocket ears on bottom corner of pocket more than 1/16” m. pocket opening excessively loose or tight n. raw corners/holes on slit pockets o. missing bartacks when specified p. minimum of 10 stitches per inch, sides and bottom of pocket q. run off more than 2 stitches on sides and bottom of pocket


5/1/07


Outerwear



7. Plackets a. plackets crooked more than ¼” from top to bottom b. placket length ± ¼” from specified c. placket width uneven/distorted from top to bottom d. placket sewn off-grain e. raw edges f. interlining missing, when specified g. missing tack at v point neck opening h. hole caused by insufficient bite at point of v neck opening i. excessive fullness or pucker at bottom of placket j. on zipper fronts, raw edge extending more than 1/16” beyond zipper tape k. missing bartacks at ends of zippers, when specified l. 1/16” difference in edge margins m. excessive fullness between needles n. plaids mismatched on front placket more than ¼”


5/1/07 Page 24


Outerwear


button side c. collar points not fully turned out d. collar points improperly shaped e. collar points mismatched ± 1/8” f. collar band or undercollar showing above top collar g. pucker, pleats in neck trim h. neck opening off center i. collar not � ecurely backtacked at both ends j. topstitch collar edge margin more than 1/16” from specified k. collar points punched out l. raw edge


a. incorrect b. misplaced, not centered, as specified c. crooked d. handwritten e. illegible f. incorrect style number on tickets and or tags g. incorrect color code h. labels not caught by attaching stitch i. label off center in back of neck ± 1/8”


11. Pressing

a. scorch marks or burns b. excessive wrinkling c. dampness d. press marks from clamps or other holding devices e. improper pressing (creased, etc.)



Outerwear

12. Soilage a. dirt, oil spots, ink, stains, etc. b. rings left after cleaning soils

13. Miscellaneous

a. staples or pins left in garments b. mismatched plaids, stripes, when specified to match c. missing bartacks d. tackit holes e. feed dog marks left by presser foot f. color off standard


5/1/07

Section 2

Product Quality Standards

WOOLRICH, INC.

MEASUREMENT MANUAL


5/1/07

Product Quality Standards Measurement Manual

Overview This Measurement Manual is designed to provide our vendors with a thorough understanding of how to measure Woolrich garments. As you prepare to use the measurement methods outlined in this manual, it is important that you remember the following guidelines:

1. All measurements are finished product measurements. They do not necessarily match pattern measurements. The manufacturing facility is responsible for adjusting for seam allowances, wash, and other operations affecting measurements to ensure that all finished product measurements in all areas of the product match the product measurement specifications reflected in the specification package.

2. All measurements must be taken on closed garments, unless otherwise specified. Garments must be laid out on a

smooth, flat surface. All fullness should be smoothed out with pleats opened.

3. Tops, dresses and jackets:-lay garment flat and align so that no diagonal pulls form above or below the armholes.

-ensure that overlap conforms to specifications (if applicable) -ensure that shoulder seam is at the high point, or as specified below the high point.

4. Bottoms: -lay garment flat and align so that no diagonal pulls form above or below the

crotch -front and back waists may not match in this position; skirts – ensure that overlap

conforms to specifications (if applicable) 5/1/07 Measurement Manual, Page 1


Measurement Manual

5. All measurements are taken on the front of the garment unless otherwise stated, or shown on the back of the garment. 6. All measurements are taken with a metal tape measure. 7. All measurements are taken on the wearer’s left side of the garment. 8. All measurements are taken as shown for each area. 9. All cuff, waist, sweep, hip/seat, and chest measurements for woven products are half measurements and must be

doubled to obtain the proper specification. For example, if a waist measures 16 ½”, it should be written as 33”. 10. All cuff, waist, sweep, hip/seat, and chest measurements on knit products are whole measurements. These should

not be doubled.

11. Measurement tolerances are included for each garment type, specifying the critical measurements for each type. Please note that the tolerances for shirts include all woven shirts, and all wool shirts with a fabric weight of 11 ounces or less. Wool shirts with a fabric weight of over 11 ounces are included in the tolerances for outerwear.

PLEASE NOTE: THIS MEASUREMENT MANUAL IS DESIGNED TO ADDRESS AS MANY GARMENT TYPES AS POSSIBLE. HOWEVER, EXCEPTIONS WILL OCCUR. IF A SPECIFIC/UNIQUE MEASUREMENT IS NOT COVERED IN THE MANUAL, IT WILL BE NOTED ON THE MEASUREMENT PAGE ISSUED BY PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT.

Measurement Manual 5/1/07 Page 2


Measurement Manual Table of Contents Area Page Area Page Armhole 4-7 Outseam 50 Back 8-12 Placket 51 Belts 13 Pleats 52 Belt Loops 14 Pockets 53-59 Bib Height 15 Rise 60-63 Biceps/Upper Arm 16 Shoulder 64-65 Bodice 17-19 Sleeve 66-69 Chest/Bust 20-22 Sweep 70 Collars 23-26 Tabs 71 Crotch Gusset 27 Thigh 72-73 Cuffs 28-29 Tube Width 74 Darts 30 Vent 75 Elbow 31 Waist 76-83 Front Body Length 32 Yoke 84-85 Hip 33-37 Zipper 86-87 Hoods 38 Hats 89-92 Inseam 39-40 Kick Pleat 41 Tolerances 93-107 Knee 42 Leg 43 Critical Measurements 108 Neck 44-49

Measurement Manual 5/1/07 Page 3

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc ARMHOLE –ALL GARMENTS EXCEPT SWEATRES ARMHOLE 5/1/07 Page 4

Armhole- Raglan Sleeve – With front of garment facing you measure from bottom of armhole to neck seam

following valley of armhole seam.

Armhole – Set In and Drop Shoulder – With front of garment facing you align the front and back armhole

seams and smooth wrinkles. Measure from the bottom of the armhole to the top of the armhole following the

contour of the armhole seam.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc SLEEVELESS ARMHOLE –ALL GARMENTS EXCEPT SWEATERS & ARMHOLE 5/1/07 GARMENTS WITH ADJUSTABLE STRAPS Page 5

Armhole – Sleeveless – With front of garment facing you, align the front and back of the armhole, gently smooth out all wrinkles. Measure with tape measure towards outside edge of armhole opening from the bottom of the armhole to the top of

the armhole following the armhole contour. (Tape measure should not be on top of actual garment, but should be laid next

to armhole opening.)

Tape measure

Tape measure is laid on outside edge of opening

Tape measure is laid on

outside edge of opening

Tape

mea

sure

For Capped Sleeves, measure directly on cap attachment seam, from the bottom of the armhole to the top of the armhole.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc ARMHOLE –SWEATERS ARMHOLE 5/1/07 Page 6

Armhole- Raglan Sleeve – With front of garment facing you measure from bottom of armhole to neck seam

following valley of armhole seam.

Armhole – Set In and Drop Shoulder, and Sleeveless – With front of garment facing you align the front and back armhole seams and smooth wrinkles. Measure

from the bottom of the armhole straight across to the top of the armhole.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc ARMHOLE-GARMENTS WITH ADJUSTABLE STRAPS ARMHOLE 5/1/07 Page 7

Armhole – Garments with Adjustable Straps – With straps adjusted to longest point, measure from outside edge of

strap straight down to bottom of armhole.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc ACROSS BACK-ALL GARMENTS BACK - ACROSS 5/1/07 Page 8

Across Back – Garments With Set in Sleeves -Measure from the center of the back neck seam 6”

down, then measure straight across the back of garment from sleeve seam to sleeve seam.

Across Back – Sleeveless Garments - Measure from the center of the back neck seam 6” down, then measure straight across the back of garment

from arm opening seam to arm opening seam.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc CENTER BACK LENGTH – BLAZERS BACK LENGTH - CENTER KNIT SHIRTS, SPORTSWEAR & OUTERWEAR VESTS, OUTERWEAR COATS

5/1/07 & JACKETS, WOOL & WOVEN SHIRTS, DRESSES, JUMPERS, SWEATERS Page 9

Center Back Length – Measure from the center of the back neck seam down the center of the back to

the bottom of the garment.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc CENTER BACK LENGTH- BACK LENGTH - CENTER 5/1/07 COVERALLS Page 10

Center Back Length – - With the back of the garment

facing you measure from the center of the bib top or center back neck seam down to the

crotch seam.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc CENTER BACK LENGTH - SKIRTS BACK LENGTH - CENTER 5/1/07 Page 11

Center Back Length With Waistband - With back of garment facing you measure from the waistband seam down the center

back to the bottom of the garment.

Center Back Length Without Waistband - With back of garment facing you measure from the

waistband top stitch down the center back to the bottom of the garment.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc CENTER BACK LENGTH - SKIRTS BACK LENGTH – CENTER TO TOP OF WAISTBAND 9/27/13 Page 11a

Center Back Length - With back of garment facing you, measure from top of

waistband down the center back to the bottom edge of garment.

Starting with S15 season

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BACK LENGTH HIGH POINT SHOULDER- ALL GARMENT TYPES BACK LENGTH 5/1/07 EXCEPT SWEATERS From High Point of Shoulder Page 12

Back Length from High Point of Shoulder - With the back of the garment facing you,

measure straight down from the high point of shoulder to bottom of the garment.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BELT LENGTH & WIDTH BELTS LENGTH/WIDTH

5/1/07 Page 13

Belt Length – Belts with Holes- Measure from end of buckle to second hole.

Belt Length – Belts without Holes – Measure from end of belt to end of

buckle.

Belt Width –Measure across belt from edge to edge

Belt Length – Belts without Buckles – Measure from end to end.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BELT LOOPS – ALL GARMENTS BELT LOOPS 5/1/07 Page 14

width length

Belt Loop Width – Measure across belt loop from edge to edge.

Belt Loop Opening Length – Measure from bar tack to bar tack. If no bar tacks measure

from top of folded edge to bottom folded edge.

Belt Loop Length – Measure from top of folded edge to bottom folded edge

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BIB HEIGHT – TOP BIB WIDTH BIB HEIGHT TOP BIB WIDTH

5/1/07 Page 15

Bib Height – At center front of bib measure from top of bib straight down to waist seam.

Bib Top Width – Measure across top of bib

outside edge to outside edge.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BICEP/UPPER ARM- ALL GARMENTS BICEP/UPPER ARM 5/1/07 Page 16

90°

90°

Bicep/Upper Arm – With the front of the garment facing up, measure perpendicular to the center fold of the sleeve. Measure

straight across 1” from the underarm to the center fold of the sleeve.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BACK BODICE LENGTH – JUMPERS, DRESSES BODICE LENGTH

BACK 5/1/07 Page 17

Back Bodice Length – From the high point of shoulder, measure down to the seam where the

bodice is attached to the back.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc FRONT BODICE LENGTH - BIBS BODICE LENGTH FRONT

5/1/07 Page 18

Front Bodice Length – With straps adjusted to longest point, measure straight down from high point of

shoulder to where the bodice is attached to the front.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc FRONT BODICE LENGTH – JUMPERS, DRESSES BODICE LENGTH FRONT

5/1/07 Page 19

Front Bodice Length – From the high point of shoulder, measure down to the seam where

the bodice is attached to the front.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc CHEST/BUST -ALL GARMENTS EXCEPT DRESSES, JUMPERS CHEST/BUST 5/1/07 SLEEVELESS TOPS, & TANK TOPS Page 20

Chest/Bust – With the front of the garment facing you

measure straight across garment from outside to

outside 1” below armhole . Body fullness must be gently smoothed out.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BUST-DRESSES CHEST/BUST 5/1/07 Page 21

Bust – Measure from high point of shoulder down the specified distance, then measure from outside to outside.

Size Distance S, M, 4, 6, 8, 10 11” L, XL, 12, 14, 16, 18 12”

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc CHEST/BUST - GARMENTS WITH ADJUSTABLE STRAPS CHEST/BUST 5/1/07 Page 22

Chest/Bust – Garments with Adjustable Straps-

1a-Adjust the strap so that the garment measures the dimension

specified in spec package at armhole.

1b- At finished edge of bottom of armhole, measure straight across

chest.

1a. Adjust strap to

distance specified in spec

package

1b.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc CHEST/BUST –SLEEVELESS TOPS, TANK TOPS CHEST/BUST 5/1/07 JUMPERS WITHOUT ADJUSTABLE STRAPS Page 22a

Chest/Bust –Sleeveless tops, tank tops, jumpers without adjustable straps- At finished edge of bottom of armhole,

measure straight across chest

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc. CENTER BACK COLLAR HEIGHT – ALL GARMENTS COLLAR HEIGHT CENTER BACK

5/1/07 Page 23

Center Back Collar Height –Garment types with attached collarbands only – With the back of the garment facing you,

measure from the collar attachment seam to the top of the collar. (For garments without collarbands attached to collars, refer to

Collarband Height/Tube Height-Center Back method)

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc. CENTER BACK COLLARBAND/TUBE HEIGHT –COLLARBAND HEIGHT ALL GARMENTS TUBE HEIGHT-CENTER BACK

5/1/07 Page 24

Center Back Collarband/Tube Height – At the center back, measure from the bottom of the collarband/tube attachment seam to the top of the collarband seam or edge of the fabric.

MEASUREMENT METHOD Woolrich, Inc. COLLAR POINT LENGTH/CENTER FRONT COLLAR HEIGHT

ALL GARMENTS COLLAR POINT LENGTH COLLAR HEIGHT - CENTER FRONT

5/1/07 Page 25

Collar Point Length/Center Front Collar Height – Measure

from the collar point to the collar attachment seam.

COLLAR POINT LENGTH/COLLAR HEIGHT MUST BE BALANCED, SIDE TO SIDE. BOTH SIDES OF THE GARMENT SHOULD BE MEASURED – THE DIFFERENCE SIDE TO SIDE CANNOT EXCEED 1/8”.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc. COLLAR SPREAD – ALL GARMENTS COLLAR SPREAD 5/1/07 Page 26

Collar Spread – With closures closed, measure from collar point to collar point

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc CROTCH GUSSET WIDTH-PANTS, SHORTS CROTCH GUSSET-WIDTH 5/1/07 Page 27

Crotch gusset width-Measure across gusset

at center of gusset

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc CUFF HEIGHT – ALL GARMENTS CUFF HEIGHT 5/1/07 Page 28

Cuff Height – Measure from the cuff attachment seam to

the end of the cuff.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc CUFF/SLEEVE OPENINGS CUFFS/SLEEVE OPENINGS 5/1/07 ALL GARMENTS Page 29

Cuff/Sleeve Opening with Elastic, Rib Knit, or Lycra – Measure across the bottom of the

sleeve opening inside to inside.

Cuff/Sleeve Opening with Button or Snap Closure– With cuff open measure straight across

cuff from center of button to end of buttonhole, or center of snap to center of snap.

Sleeves with Straight Openings- Measure across the bottom of

sleeve inside to inside.

1 2

For Garments w/Through & Through Adjustable Snap Closures (front sleeve/back sleeve)

1-unsnap 2-measure across the bottom of sleeve inside to inside

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc DART LENGTH – ALL GARMENTS DART LENGTH 5/1/07 Page 30

Dart Length – Measure from the finished edge to the finished edge of the dart.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc ELBOW - ALL GARMENTS ELBOW 5/1/07 Page 31

Elbow – Fold bottom of sleeve or cuff over to touch armhole seam at underarm. Measure elbow from top outer edge to

bottom outer edge.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc FRONT BODY LENGTH HIGH POINT SHOULDER FRONT BODY LENGTH

5/1/07 ALL GARMENTS HIGH POINT SHOULDER Page 32

Front Body Length from High Point of Shoulder-Measure from high point

of shoulder straight down to bottom edge of garment.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc HIGH HIP-DRESSES & JUMPERS HIP - HIGH 5/1/07 Page 33

High Hip – Measure from the high point of shoulder down the specified distance unless specified different in spec

package. Then measure from side to side. Size Distance to Measure Down S, M, 4, 6, 8, 10 21 ½” L, XL, 12, 14, 16, 18 22”

For garments with adjustable straps-adjust strap to distance specified in spec package, then measure from

the high point of shoulder down the specified distance unless specified

different in spec package. Then measure from side to side.

Size Distance to Measure Down S, M, 4, 6, 8, 10 21 ½” L, XL, 12, 14, 16, 18 22”

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc HIGH HIP- PANTS, SHORTS & SKIRTS HIP - HIGH 5/1/07 Page 34

High Hip – With the front of the garment facing you, measure 4” down (unless otherwise indicated in spec package) the center front from the bottom of waistband. (For garments without waistbands measure from the bottom of the stitch line-for Hollywood waistbands with no stitch line, measure to top edge of fabric) Mark location with a straight pin. Then measure 4

½” down (unless otherwise indicated in spec package) on the hip and mark location on both sides of the garment with straight pins. Measure between the marked locations with the pleat(s) smoothed open. The marks should create a “V” shape.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc HIP/SEAT – BIBS & COVERALL HIP/SEAT 5/1/07 Page 35

Seat – With front of garment facing you measure up 3” from crotch then measure outside to outside.

(Double measurement)

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc HIP/SEAT – DRESSES & JUMPERS HIP/SEAT 5/1/07 Page 36

Seat – Measure from high point of shoulder down the specified distance unless specified different in spec package.

Then measure from outside to outside. (Double measurement)


For garments with adjustable straps-adjust strap to distance

specified in spec package, then measure from the high point of

shoulder down the specified distance unless specified different

in spec package. Then measure from side to side.


MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc HIP/SEAT – PANTS, SHORTS & SKIRTS HIP/SEAT 5/1/07 Page 37

Hip/Seat – Womens –With front of garment facing you measure 8” down the center front from the bottom of the waistband. Mark location with a

straight pin. Then measure 8 ½” down (unless specified different in spec package) the hip and mark location on both sides of the garment with

straight pins. Measure between the marked locations with the pleats smoothed open. The

marks should create a “V” shape. (Double measurement)

Hip/Seat – Mens – With front of garment facing you and with pleats smoothed open measure up 3” from the crotch

seam mark location with straight pin. Measure distance from bottom of waistband to pin. On each side of garment

measure down this distance from bottom of waistband and mark with a pin. Measure between the marked locations, the

marks should create a “V” shape. (Double measurement)

Hip/Seat – Mens With Gusset– –With front of garment facing you measure 8” down the center front from the bottom of the waistband. Mark

location with a straight pin. Then measure 8” down (unless specified different in spec package) the hip

and mark location on both sides of the garment with straight pins. Measure between the marked

locations with the pleats smoothed open. The marks should create a “V” shape. (Double measurement)

8”

8”

3”

For garments with Hollywood waistband, measure from the stitchline. If no stitchline, measure from top edge of frabric

8”

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc HOOD WIDTH/HEIGHT – ALL GARMENTS HOOD WIDTH HOOD HEIGHT

5/1/07 Page 38

Hood Width – Align neck seams of hood and lay hood flat. Measure straight across hood

from hood opening to center back fold five (5) inches down from the highest point at the top

of the hood.

Hood Height from High point of Shoulder – Align neck seams of hood and lay hood flat.

Measure from high point of shoulder to fold at top center of hood.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc INSEAM-BIBS, COVERALL, PANTS & SHORTS INSEAM 5/1/07 Page 39

Inseam – Fold garment so that outseam and inseam are together. Lay garment out so that one inseam is

exposed to the rise – folding the other leg

out of the way. Measure from the rise

join seam to the bottom of the leg

opening. For garments with

applied cuffs/ribbing – measure to the bottom

of the cuff/ribbing.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc INSEAM-CHAPS INSEAM 5/1/07 Page 40

Inseam – With front of garment facing you measure from top edge (short side) to bottom of leg opening

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc KICK PLEAT LENGTH – ALL GARMENTS KICK PLEAT LENGTH 5/1/07 Page 41

Kick Pleat Length - Measure from the bottom of the garment to the top of the opening.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc KNEE – BIBS, COVERALLS & PANTS KNEE 5/1/07 Page 42

Knee – Take half of the specified inseam measurement and subtract 2”. Measure this distance down the inseam from the crotch then measure

straight across from outside to outside. (Double measurement) Example: Specified inseam = 32” Half inseam = 16” Subtract 2” = 14” Distance to measure down from crotch = 14” Specified Inseam Distance to measure down 30” 13” 31” 13 ½” 32” 14” 34” 15” 36” 16”

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc LEG OPENING – BIBS, CHAPS, COVERALLS, PANTS & SHORTS LEG OPENING 5/1/07 Page 43

Leg Opening – With front of garment facing you measure straight across bottom opening outside to

outside. (Double measurement)

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc FRONT NECK DROP NECK DROP - FRONT 5/1/07 GARMENTS WITH APPLIED COLLARS, BINDING, RIBBING Page 45

Front Neck Drop – Garments with Applied Collars, Binding, Ribbing – With front of garment facing you lay a straight edge across the high points of the shoulder. From the center point, measure from the lower edge of the straight edge to the bottom of the ribbing, binding, collar at the center front.

Front Neck Drop – Garments with Front Closures and Applied Collars, Binding, Ribbing – With front of garment facing you and with closures closed, lay a straight edge across the high points of the shoulder. From the center point, measure from the lower edge of the straight edge to the bottom of the ribbing, binding, collarband at the center front, or to

the top of the zipper (for garments whose zippers stop at neck seam).

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc FRONT NECK DROP NECK DROP - FRONT 5/1/07 GARMENTS WITHOUT APPLIED COLLARS, BINDING, RIBBING Page 46

Front Neck Drop – Garments without Applied Collars, Binding, Ribbing – With front of garment facing you lay a straight edge across the high points of the shoulder. From the center point, measure from the lower edge of the straight edge to the top edge of the fabric at the center front.

Front Neck Drop – Garments with Front Closures and without Applied Collars, Binding, Ribbing – With front of garment facing you and with closures closed, lay a straight edge across the high points of the shoulder. From the center point, measure from the lower edge of the straight edge to the top edge of the fabric at the center

front, or to the top of the zipper.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc NECK WIDTH OPENING - NECK WIDTH OPENING 5/1/07 GARMENTS WITH PIECED ON COLLAR OR COLLARBAND WITH CLOSURES Page 47

Neck Width Opening for Garments With Pieced on Collar or Collarband with Buttons – Measure from the center of the button to

the end of button hole or inside the end of button loop.

Neck Width Opening for Garments With Pieced on Collar or Collarband with Snaps – Measure from the center of snap to center of snap. For garments with more than one snap, measure the snap

closest to the collar set.

Neck Width Opening for Garments With Pieced on Collar or Collarband with Zipper– Measure from the outside edge of zipper to

outside edge of zipper at the collar set.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc NECK WIDTH OPENING - NECK WIDTH OPENING 5/1/07 Rev. 8/14/08 KNITS and SWEATERS WITH CLOSURES Page 48

Neck Width Opening for Knits and Sweaters with Closures – With closures closed at high point of shoulders measure across neck.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc NECK WIDTH OPENING - NECK WIDTH OPENING 5/1/07 GARMENTS WITHOUT CLOSURES ON COLLARBAND Page 49

Neck Width Opening for Garments Without Closures on Collarband – With the front of the garment facing you, measure across the neck

opening from side to side at the high point of shoulder (if collar includes binding or ribbing, measure from edge to edge.)

Neck Width Opening for Turtlenecks/Pullovers – Measure across from shoulder joining seam to shoulder joining seam.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc OUTSEAM - CHAPS OUTSEAM 5/1/07 Page 50

Outseam – With front of garment facing you measure from outside edge (long side) to bottom of leg opening

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc FRONT PLACKET WIDTH/LENGTH - ALL GARMENTS PLACKET - FRONT WIDTH/LENGTH

5/1/07 Page 51

Front Placket Width – Measure straight across front placket from edge to edge. If French front, measure

from the front edge to the farthest row of placket stitching.

Front Placket Length – Measure the placket from the top edge to the bottom finished edge.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc PLEAT DEPTH - ALL GARMENTS PLEAT DEPTH 5/1/07 Page 52

Pleat Depth – At the top of the pleat, measure from the inside fold of the pleat to the outside

fold of the pleat.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc POCKET BAG DEPTH - PANTS, SHORTS, SKIRTS POCKET BAG DEPTH 5/1/07 Page 53

Pocket Bag Depth – With garment open, measure from bottom of

waistband to first row of stitches at deepest point of the pocket bag

inside the garment.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc POCKET FLAPS – ALL GARMENTS POCKET FLAPS WIDTH/HEIGHT

5/1/07 Page 54

Pocket Flap Height – At the center of the pocket flap, measure from the top edge to the bottom edge.

Pocket Flap Width – At the top of the pocket flap, measure across from edge to edge.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc PATCH POCKET HEIGHT/ WIDTH – ALL GARMENTS PATCH POCKETS HEIGHT/WIDTH

5/1/07 Page 55

Pocket Width – Measure across the top of the

pocket from edge to edge.

Pocket Height – Measure vertically from the top center of pocket to the

bottom center of pocket

Pocket Height with Flap – Measure from top of

pocket flap to the bottom of the pocket.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

HAND WARMER OPENING - ALL GARMENTS POCKET

Woolrich, Inc HAND WARMER OPENING 5/1/07 Page 56

Hand Warmer Opening – Measure from the end of the hand warmer opening to the end of the hand warmer

opening.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc POCKET LOCATION – ALL GARMENTS POCKET LOCATION 5/1/07 Page 57

Pocket Location From High Point of Shoulder – From the high

point of shoulder, measure down to the top edge of the pocket.

Pocket Location From Center of Chest – Measure from the center of the placket or center of the chest to

the top edge of the pocket.

Pocket Location from center front-Measure from center front of garment to edge of pocket.

Pocket Location from bottom edge-Measure from bottom edge of

garment to top of pocket.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc FRONT POCKET OPENING POCKET OPENING - FRONT 5/1/07 ALL GARMENTS Page 58

Front Pocket Opening – Following the contour of the pocket edge, measure the distance between the bar tacks. If

bar tacks are not specified, measure the distance from the end of the pocket

opening to the end of the pocket opening.

Front Pocket Opening at Sideseam – Scoop Type Pockets – Measure from the bottom of waistband to bottom of

handhole or bartack.

Front Pocket Opening at Waist – Scoop Type Pockets - Measure at the waistband from the side seam to the

pocket edge.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc POCKET WELT LENGTH POCKET WELT LENGTH POCKET WELT OPENING POCKET WELT OPENING

5/1/07 ALL GARMENTS Page 59

Pocket Welt Opening – Measure from bartack to bartack, or from end of opening

to end of opening.

Pocket Welt Length – Measure from end of pocket welt to end of pocket welt.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BACK RISE-BIBS & COVERALLS RISE-BACK 5/1/07 Page 60

Back Rise – Coveralls – With the back of the garment

facing you measure from the crotch seam to the middle of

elastic waist or band.

Back Rise – Bibs – With the back of the garment facing you

measure from the crotch seam up to the

bottom of the V opening or the top of the back bib if there

is no V opening.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BACK RISE-PANTS, SHORTS RISE-BACK 5/1/07 Page 61

Back Rise – With back of garment facing you measure from point where crotch seam joins

inseam, following contour of the back rise seam to the set waistband seam. (Do not stretch)

Back Rise – Modified Rise - With back of garment facing you measure from the gusset to the waistband seam following the contour of the

back rise seam. (Do not stretch)

For Hollywood Waistband- measure from point where crotch seam joins inseam, following contour of back

rise seam to the stitchline. If no stitchline, measure to top

edge of fabric.

For Hollywood Waistband-Modified Rise-measure from

the gusset to the stitchline following the contour of the

back rise seam. If no stitchline, measure to the top

edge of fabric.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BACK RISE-PANTS, SHORTS RISE-BACK TO TOP OF WAISTBAND 9/27/13 Page 61a


Back Rise – With back of garment facing you measure from the point where crotch seam joins inseam, following contour of the back rise seam

to top of waistband. (Do not stretch)

Back Rise – Modified Rise - With back of garment facing you measure from the gusset to top of waistband following the contour of the

back rise seam. (Do not stretch)

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc FRONT RISE-BIBS & COVERALLS RISE-FRONT 5/1/07 Page 62

Front Rise – Bibs- With front of garment facing you measure from crotch seam to

the top of the bib front.

Front Rise – Coveralls – With front of garment facing you measure from crotch

seam to top of zipper.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc FRONT RISE-PANTS, SHORTS RISE-FRONT 5/1/07 Page 63

Front Rise – With front of garment facing you measure from the point where the crotch seam joins the inseam and follow the contour of the front rise seam to the waistband

seam. (Do not stretch)

Front Rise- Modified Rise- With front of garment facing you, measure from the gusset to the waistband seam following the contour of the front rise seam. (Do not

stretch)

For Hollywood Waistband- measure from point where crotch seam joins inseam, following contour of front

rise seam to the stitchline . If no stitchline, measure to top

edge of fabric.

For Hollywood Waistband-Modified

Rise-measure from the gusset to the stitchline

following the contour of the front rise seam. If no stitchline, measure to the

top edge of fabric.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc FRONT RISE-PANTS, SHORTS RISE-FRONT TO TOP OF WAISTBAND 9/27/13 Page 63a


Front Rise – With front of garment facing you measure from the point where the crotch seam joins the inseam and

follow the contour of the front rise seam to top of waistband. (Do not stretch)

Front Rise- Modified Rise- With front of garment facing you, measure from the gusset to top of waistband

following the contour of the front rise seam. (Do not stretch)

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc ACROSS SHOULDER-ALL GARMENTS SHOULDER - ACROSS 5/1/07 Page 64

Across Shoulder – With the back of the garment facing you, locate the shoulder points where the shoulder seams meet the top of the armhole or

where the natural fold of the shoulder meets the top of the armhole on each side of the garment.

Measure straight across the shoulder from shoulder point to shoulder point. Garments with rib trim, lycra , or binding, measure to outside

edge of the rib trim, lycra , or binding.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc SHOULDER SLOPE - ALL GARMENTS SHOULDER SLOPE 5/1/07 Page 65

Shoulder Slope – From an imaginary line at High Point of Shoulder measure straight down to sleeve seam

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc SLEEVE INSEAM -BLAZERS SLEEVE INSEAM 5/1/07 Page 66

Sleeve Inseam – With the front of the garment facing you, measure from armhole seam along the sleeve inseam to the bottom of the sleeve

MEASUREMENT METHOD

CENTER BACK SLEEVE LENGTH-ALL GARMENTS SLEEVE LENGTH

Woolrich, Inc CENTER BACK 5/1/07 Page 67

Center Back Sleeve Length – 1-Measure across back of garment from shoulder

point to shoulder point. Divide in half to determine center back.

2-.Measure from center back neck seam across to shoulder point and continue down sleeve following outside edge of sleeve to bottom of sleeve or cuff.

Center Back Sleeve Length – Raglan Sleeves/Sleeves

with Modified Armhole- From center back neck seam measure distance specified to outer edge and continue down outside edge of sleeve to the bottom

of sleeve or cuff. Men Women 11” 9”

1

2

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc SLEEVE PLACKET - ALL GARMENTS SLEEVE PLACKET 5/1/07 Page 68

Sleeve Placket Length – Measure from the cuff attachment seam to

the end of the placket.

Sleeve Placket Width – Measure across the sleeve placket from edge to edge.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc SLEEVE WIDTH -SWEATERS SLEEVE WIDTH 5/1/07 Page 69

2”

Sleeve Width Sweaters-Measure 2” from top of cuff, then measure straight across sleeve

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc SWEEP – ALL GARMENTS SWEEP 5/1/07 Page 70

Sweep –All Garments – Measure straight across the front of the garment from outside to outside at

the bottom.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc TAB WIDTH/LENGTH - ALL GARMENTS TAB WIDTH/LENGTH 5/1/07 Page 71

Tab Width – Measure across the tab from edge to edge.

Tab Length – Measure from the end of the tab to the end

of the tab.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc THIGH-CHAPS THIGH 5/1/07 Page 72

Thigh – With the front of the garment facing you measure straight across top of opening outside to outside. (Double measurement)

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc THIGH-BIBS, COVERALLS, PANTS & SHORTS THIGH 5/1/07 Page 73

Thigh – With front of garment facing you measure 1” down from crotch seam then measure straight across the leg from outside to outside. (Double

measurement)

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc TUBE WIDTH-MOCK NECKS, TURTLENECKS TUBE WIDTH 5/1/07 Page 74

Tube Width-With the front of garment facing you, measure across the center of the tube from side to side.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc VENT LENGTH - ALL GARMENTS VENT LENGTH 5/1/07 Page 75

Vent Length – Measure from the bottom of the vent to the top of the vent.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc WAIST-BIBS WAIST 5/1/07 Page 76

Waist with Waistband – With front of garment facing you measure straight across the middle

of the waistband – outside to outside.

Waist without Waistband – With front of garment facing you measure straight across the garment from

top of outseam to top of outseam.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc WAIST-COVERALL WAIST 5/1/07 Page 77

Banded Waist – With front of garment facing you measure straight across the top of the waist outside to outside.

Elastic Waist – Relaxed – With front of garment facing you measure straight across the top of the

waist outside to outside.

Elastic Waist – Extended - With the waist fully extended, measure straight across the top of the waist

outside to outside.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc WAIST-PANTS, SHORTS, SKIRTS WAIST 5/1/07 Page 78

Banded Waist – With front of garment facing you measure straight across the top of

the waist inside to inside.

Elastic Waist – Relaxed – With front of garment facing you measure straight across the top of the

waist inside to inside.

Elastic Waist – Extended - With the waist fully extended, measure straight across the top of the waist

inside to inside.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc WAIST CENTER BACK-OUTERWEAR COATS WAIST-CENTERBACK 5/1/07 Revised 2/28/13 AND PARKAS, BLAZERS Page 79

Waist Center Back –Measure from center back neck seam down the center back to the dimension listed below. Then measure across from side to side. Womens Outerwear & Blazers Size Distance XS 17 ½” S, M, 4, 6, 8, 10 18” L, XL, 12, 14, 16, 18 18 ½” XXL 19” Mens Outerwear Regular Mens Outerwear Tall Size Distance Size Distance XS 20 ½” XS 21 ½” S, M 21” S, M 22” L ,XL 21 ½” L, XL 22 ½” XXL & up 22” XXL & up 23”

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc WAIST-HIGH POINT SHOULDER 5/1/07 WAIST HIGH POINT SHOULDER –DRESSES & JUMPERS, NIGHTWEAR Page 80

For garments with adjustable straps-adjust strap to distance specified in spec package, then measure from

the high point of shoulder down the distance specified in spec package. At this location measure from side

to side.

Waist High Point of Shoulder - Measure from high point of shoulder down the specified distance

(unless specified different in spec package.) Then measure from side to side.

DRESSES/JUMPERS Size Distance S, M, 4, 6, 8, 10 18” L, XL 12, 14, 16, 18 18 ½”

NIGHTWEAR Ladies Mens 18 ½” 20”

MEASUREMENT METHOD WAIST-HIGH POINT SHOULDER-KNIT SHIRTS

Woolrich, Inc WAIST-HIGH POINT SHOULDER 5/1/07 WOOL & WOVEN SHIRTS, SWEATERS , SPORTSWEAR VEST Page 81

Waist – Measure from the high point of shoulder down the distance specified in spec package. Then measure across from side to side.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc WAISTBAND HEIGHT – ALL GARMENTS WAISTBAND HEIGHT 5/1/07 Page 82

Waistband Height – Measure from the base of the waistband to the top of the waistband.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

WAISTS TUNNEL CENTER – ALL GARMENTS WAIST TUNNEL

Woolrich, Inc CENTER 5/1/07 Page 83

Waist Tunnel Center – From the center back neck, measure from the center of the tunnel to the base of the ribbing, binding

or collar.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BACK YOKE HEIGHT- ALL GARMENTS YOKE HEIGHT - BACK 5/1/07 Page 84

Back Yoke Height- In the center of the yoke measure from the base of the yoke to the neck seam or the top

of the yoke.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc FRONT YOKE HEIGHT- ALL GARMENT YOKE HEIGHT - FRONT 5/1/07 Page 85

Front Yoke Height- Measure perpendicular from the bottom of the yoke to the high point of shoulder.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc ZIPPER LENGTH-SEPARATING ZIPPER ZIPPER LENGTH 5/1/07 Rev. 8/14/08 Page 86

Zipper Length – Separating – Measure the length of zipper, from top to bottom.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

ZIPPER LENGTH OPENING– ALL GARMENTS WITH ZIPPER LENGTH Woolrich, Inc NON-SEPARATING ZIPPERS OPENING 5/1/07 Page 87

Zipper Length Opening – Non-Separating Zipper – With zipper unzipped measure from the top of the zipper slide to the point where

the zipper stops when fully zipped.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BILL LENGTH/WIDTH –HATS BILL LENGTH/WIDTH 5/1/07 Page 88

Bill Length – Baseball & Bucket Style Hats – Measure from bill and crown seam at center front of hat to end of

bill.

Bill Width – Baseball Style Hat – Following bill and crown seam, measure bill from end to end.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc HALF CIRCLE CIRCUMFERENCE - HATS CIRCUMFERENCE 5/1/07 CIRCUMFERENCE OPENING – HATS Page 89

Half Circle Circumference – Baseball Style Hat- Measure the half circle following the

edge of the circle from one end to the other.

Circumference Opening – Hats with Plastic Bands – Attach band

together in first 5 holes, then measure around hat opening on

inside of hat. Circumference Opening – Hats

with Elastic Bands – Having elastic band in relaxed state,

measure around hat opening on inside of hat.

Circumference Opening – Extended – Elastic Bands – While slightly extending the elastic, measure

around hat opening on inside of hat.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc CROWN LENGTH/WIDTH - HATS CROWN LENGTH/WIDTH 5/1/07 Page 90

Crown Width – Baseball Style Hat – Take one half the distance of crown length, measure from center

at top of hat to edge of hat opening.

Crown Width – Bucket Style Hat – Measure across top of hat from seam to seam, continue down side of

hat to bill seam.

Crown Length – Baseball Style Hat – Measure from bill and crown seam over the center of hat

to bottom of back band.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

Woolrich, Inc BACK OPENING - HATS HAT BACK OPENING 5/1/07 Page 91

Band Opening –Baseball Style Hat- From center point of back half circle,

measure down to bottom edge of band.

MEASUREMENT METHOD

BAND LENGTH/WIDTH HATS HAT BAND LENGTH Woolrich, Inc HAT BAND WIDTH 5/1/07 Page 92

Band Length –Baseball Style Hat- Measure band from one end to the

other. Band Width – Baseball Style Hat – Measure from top of band to bottom

of band.

WOOLRICH, INC.BELT EVALUATION FORM

WOOLRICH STYLE DATE INITIALSDESCRIPTION APPROVALREASON FOR REVIEW

ALL MEASUREMENTS CIRCLED ARE OUT OF TOLERANCE AND MUST BE CORRECTED*** = critical measurement+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-

MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSBelt Length*** 1/4"Belt Length Without Holes*** 1/2"Belt Width 1/8 "

COMMENT:

5/1/07 Measurement Manual Page 93

WOOLRICH, INC.BIB EVALUATION FORM


ALL MEASUREMENTS CIRCLED ARE OUT OF TOLERANCE AND MUST BE CORRECTED*** = critical measurement

+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSArmhole*** 3/4"Belt Loop Length 1/8 "Belt Loop Width 1/8 "Bib Height 1/4 "Bib Top Width 1/4 "Bodice Length-Front 1/2 "Dart Length 1/4 "Hip/ Seat*** 3/4 "Inseam*** 1/2 "Knee 3/8 "Leg Opening*** 3/8 "Neck Drop - Back 1/4 "Neck Drop - Front 1/4 "Pleat Depth 1/8 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Sideseam 1/4 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Waist 1/4 "Pocket Welt Length 1/4 "Pocket Welt Opening 1/4 "Rise - Back 3/8 "Rise - Front 1/4 "Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab - Width 1/8 "Thigh*** 1/2 "Waist*** 1 "Waistband Height 1/8 "

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.BLAZER EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSArmhole*** 3/4 "Back - Across 1/4 "Back Length - Center*** 1 "Back Length - High Point Shoulder 1 "Belt Loop Length 1/8 "Belt Loop Width 1/8 "Bicep/Upper Arm 1/2 "Chest/Bust*** 1 "Collar Height - Center Back 1/4 "Collarband/Tube Height 1/8 "Collar Point/Collar Height - Center Front 1/4 "Collar Spread 1/4 "Cuff Height 1/4 "Cuff/Sleeve Opening*** 1/2 "Dart Length 1/4 "Elbow 1/2 "Neck Drop - Back 1/4 "Neck Drop - Front 1/4 "Neck Width Opening*** 3/8 "Placket Length 1/4 "Placket Width 1/8 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket Location - Center of Chest 1/4 "Pocket Location - High Point of Shoulder 1/4 "Pocket Welt Length 1/4 "Pocket Welt Opening 1/4 "Shoulder- Across 1/2 "Sleeve Inseam 1/2 "Sleeve Length - Center Back*** 1/2 "Sleeve Placket - Length 1/4 "Sleeve Placket - Width 1/8 "Sweep*** 1 "Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab - Width 1/8 "Vent Length 1/4 "Waist 1 "Yoke Height - Back 3/8 "Yoke Height - Front 3/8 "

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.CHAPS EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSBelt Loop Length 1/8 "Belt Loop Width 1/8 "Inseam*** 1/2 "Leg Opening*** 3/8 "Outseam*** 1/2 "Thigh*** 1/2 "

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.COVERALL EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSArmhole 3/4 "Back - Across 1/4 "Back Length -Center*** 1 "Belt Loop Length 1/8 "Belt Loop Width 1/8 "Bicep/Upper Arm 1/2 "Chest/Bust*** 1 "Collar Height - Center Back 1/4 "Collarband/Tube Height 1/8 "Collar Point/Collar Height - Center Front 1/4 "Collar Spread 1/4 "Cuff Height 1/4 "Cuff/Sleeve Opening*** 1/2 "Dart Length 1/4 "Elbow 1/2 "Hip/Seat*** 3/4 "Hood Height 1/2 "Hood Width 1/4 "Inseam*** 1/2 "Knee 3/8 "Leg Opening*** 3/8 "Neck Drop -Back 1/4 "Neck Drop - Front 1/4 "Neck Width Opening*** 3/8 "Placket Length 1/4 "Placket Width 1/8 "Pleat Depth 1/8 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket Location - Center of Chest 1/4 "Pocket Location - High Point of Shoulder 1/4 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Sideseam 1/4 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Waist 1/4 "Pocket Welt Length 1/4 "Pocket Welt Opening 1/4"Rise - Back 3/8 "Rise - Front 1/4 "Shoulder - Across 1/2 "Sleeve Length -Center Back*** 1/2 "Sleeve Placket - Length 1/4 "Sleeve Placket - Width 1/8 "Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab - Width 1/8 "Thigh*** 1/2 "Waist - Banded*** 1/2 "Waist - Elastic- Relaxed*** +1/2 -1"Waist - Elastic - Extended*** 1 "Waistband Height 1/8 "Yoke Height - Back 3/8 "Yoke Height - Front 3/8 "

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.DRESS EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSArmhole (***Critical if Sleeveless) 3/4 "Back - Across 1/4 "Back Length - Center*** 1 "Back Length - High Point Shoulder 1 "Belt Loop Length 1/8 "Belt Loop Width 1/8 "Bicep/Upper Arm 1/2 "Bodice Length - Back 1/2 "Bodice Length - Front 1/2 "Chest/Bust*** 1 "Collar Height - Center Back 1/4 "Collar/Tube Height 1/8 "Collar Point/Collar Height - Center Front 1/4 "Collar Spread 1/4 "Cuff Height 1/4 "Cuff/Sleeve Opening*** 1/2 "Dart Length 1/4 "Elbow 1/2 "Hip - High 3/4 "Hip/Seat*** 3/4 "Kick Pleat Length 1/4"Neck Drop - Back 1/4 "Neck Drop - Front 1/4 "Neck Width Opening*** 3/8 "Placket Length 1/4 "Placket Width 1/8 "Pleat Depth 1/8 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket Location @ Center of Chest 1/4 "Pocket Location @ High Point of Shoulder 1/4 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Sideseam 1/4 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Waist 1/4 "Pocket Welt Length 1/4 "Pocket Welt Opening 1/4 "Shoulder - Across 1/2 "Sleeve Length - Center Back*** 1/2 "Sleeve Placket - Length 1/4 "Sleeve Placket - Width 1/8 "Sweep*** 1 "Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab - Width 1/8 "Vent Length 1/4 "Waist*** 1"Waistband Height 1/8 "Yoke Height - Back 3/8 "Yoke Height - Front 3/8 "Zipper Length Opening 3/8 "

COMMENT:5/1/07 Measurement Manual Page 98

WOOLRICH, INC.HAT EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSBill Length (Baseball/Bucket Style) 1/4 "Bill Width (Baseball Style) 1/4 "Circumference - Half Circle (Baseball Style) 1/4 "Circumference Opening - Extended***(Elastic Bands Only) 1/4 "Circumference Opening - Relaxed***(Bucket/Baseball Style) 1/4 "Crown Length*** (Baseball Style) 1/4 "Crown Width*** (Baseball/Bucket Style) 1/4 "Hat Back Opening 1/4 "Hat Band Length 1/8 "Hat Band Width 1/4 "

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.JUMPER EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSArmhole*** 3/4 "Back - Across 1/4 "Back Length - Center*** 1 "Back Length - High Point Shoulder 1 "Belt Loop Length 1/8 "Belt Loop Width 1/8 "Bodice Length - Back 1/2 "Bodice Length - Front 1/2 "Chest/Bust*** 1Dart Length 1/4 "Hip - High 3/4 "Hip/Seat*** 3/4 "Kick Pleat Length 1/4 "Neck Drop - Back 1/4 "Neck Drop - Front 1/4 "Neck Width Opening*** 3/8 "Placket Length 1/4 "Placket Width 1/8 "Pleat Depth 1/8 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket Location @ Center of Chest 1/4 "Pocket Location @ High Point of Shoulder 1/4 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Sideseam 1/4 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Waist 1/4 "Pocket Welt Length 1/4 "Pocket Welt Opening 1/4 "Shoulder - Across 1/2 "Sweep*** 1 "Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab - Width 1/8 "Vent Length 1/4 "Waist*** 1Waistband Height 1/8 "Yoke Height - Back 3/8 "Yoke Height - Front 3/8 "Zipper Length Opening 3/8 "

COMMENT:5/1/07 Measurement Manual Page 100

WOOLRICH, INC.KNIT SHIRT - SWEATER EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSArmhole (***Critical if Sleeveless) 1/2 "Back - Across 1/4 "Back Length - Center(***Critcal for Knit Shirts) 1 "Back Length - High Point Shoulder 1 "Belt Loop - Length 1/8 "Belt Loop - Width 1/8 "Bicep/Upper Arm 1/4 "Chest/Bust*** With sleeves 3/4 "Chest/Bust*** Sleeveless 1/2"Collar Height - Center Back 1/4 "Collarband/Tube Height 1/8 "Collar Point/Collar Height - Center Front 1/4 "Collar Spread 1/4 "Cuff Height 1/4 "Cuff/Sleeve Opening*** 3/8 "Dart Length 1/4 "Elbow 1/4 "Front Body Length (***Critcal for Sweaters) 1"Hood Height 1/2 "Hood Width 1/4 "Neck Drop - Back 1/4 "Neck Drop - Front 1/4 "Neck Width Opening*** 3/8 "Placket Length 1/4 "Placket Width 1/8 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket Location - Center of Chest 1/4 "Pocket Location - High Point of Shoulder 1/4 "Shoulder- Across 1/2 "Sleeve Length - Center Back*** 1/2 "Sleeve Placket - Length 1/4 "Sleeve Placket - Width 1/8 "Sweep*** 3/4 "Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab - Width 1/8 "Tube Width*** 1/4"Vent Legth 1/4 "Waist 3/4 "Yoke Height - Back 3/8 "Yoke Height - Front 3/8 "

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.NIGHTWEAR/LODGEWEAR EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSArmhole (***Critical if Sleeveless) 3/4 "Back - Across 1/4 "Back Length - Center*** 1"Back Length - High Point Shoulder 1"Belt Loop - Length 1/8 "Belt Loop - Width 1/8 "Bicep/Upper Arm 1/2 "Chest/Bust*** 1 "Collar Height - Center Back 1/4 "Collarband/Tube Height 1/8 "Collar Point/Collar Height - Center Front 1/4 "Collar Spread 3/8 "Cuff Height 1/4 "Cuff/Sleeve Opening*** 1/2 "Dart Length 1/4 "Elbow 1/2 "Hood Height 1/2 "Hood Width 1/4 "Kick Pleat Length 1/4 "Neck Drop - Back 1/2 "Neck Drop - Front 1/2 "Neck Width Opening*** 1/2 "Placket Length 1/4 "Placket Width 1/8 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket Location - Center of Chest 1/4 "Pocket Location - High Point of Shoulder 1/4 "Pocket Welt Length 1/4 "Pocket Welt Opening 1/4 "Shoulder - Across 1/2 "Sleeve Length - Center Back*** +1 -1/2 "Sleeve Placket - Length 1/4 "Sleeve Placket - Width 1/8 "Sweep*** 1 "Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab - Width 1/8 "Vent Length 1/4 "Waist 1 "Yoke Height - Back 3/8 "Yoke Height - Front 3/8 "

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.OUTERWEAR COAT/JACKET/PARKA & WOOL SHIRTS OVER 11 oz. EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSArmhole 3/4 "Back - Across 1/4 "Back Length - Center*** 1 "Back Length - High Point Shoulder 1 "Belt Loop - Length 1/8 "Belt Loop - Width 1/8 "Bicep/Upper Arm 1/2 "Chest/Bust*** 1 "Collar Height - Center Back 1/4 "Collarband/Tube Height 1/8 "Collar Point/Collar Height - Center Front 1/4 "Collar Spread 3/8 "Cuff Height 1/4 "Cuff/Sleeve Opening*** 1/2 "Dart Length 1/4 "Elbow 1/2 "Hood Height 1/2 "Hood Width 1/4 "Kick Pleat Length 1/4 "Neck Drop - Back 1/2 "Neck Drop - Front 1/2 "Neck Width Opening*** 1/2 "Placket Length 1/4 "Placket Width 1/8 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket - Hand Warmer Opening 1/4 "Pocket Location - Center of Chest 1/4 "Pocket Location - High Point of Shoulder 1/4 "Pocket Welt Length 1/4 "Pocket Welt Opening 1/4 "Shoulder - Across 1/2 "Sleeve Length - Center Back*** +1 -1/2 "Sleeve Placket - Length 1/4 "Sleeve Placket - Width 1/8 "Sweep*** 1 "Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab - Width 1/8 "Vent Length 1/4 "Waist 1 "Waistband Height 1/8 "Waist Tunnel Center 1/4 "Yoke Height - Back 3/8 "Yoke height - Front 3/8 '

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.PANT/SHORT EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSBelt Loop Length 1/8 "Belt Loop Width 1/8 "Crotch Gusset Width*** 1/4 "Dart Length 1/4 "Hip - High 3/4 "Hip/Seat*** 3/4 "Inseam*** 1/2 "Knee 3/8 "Leg Opening*** 3/8 "Pleat Depth 1/8 "Pocket Bag Depth 1/2 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Sideseam 1/4 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Waist 1/4 "Pocket Welt Length 1/4 "Pocket Welt Opening 1/4 "Rise - Back*** 3/8 "Rise - Front*** 1/4"Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab - Width 1/8 "Thigh*** 1/2 "Waist - Banded*** +1" -1/2"Waist - Elastic- Relaxed*** +1/2 -1"Waist - Elastic - Extended*** 1 "Waistband Height 1/8 "Zipper Length Opening*** 3/8 "

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.SKIRT EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSBack Length - Center*** 1 "Belt Loop Length 1/8 "Belt Loop Width 1/8 "Dart Length 1/4 "Hip - High 3/4 "Hip/Seat*** 3/4 "Kick Pleat Length 1/4"Pleat Depth 1/8 "Pocket Bag Depth 1/2 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Sideseam 1/4 "Pocket Opening - Front @ Waist 1/4 "Pocket Welt Length 1/4 "Pocket Welt Opening 1/4 "Sweep*** 1 "Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab- Width 1/8 "Vent Length 1/4 "Waist - Banded*** 1/2 "Waist - Elastic - Relaxed*** +1/2 -1 "Waist - Elastic - Extended*** 1 "Waistband Height 1/8 "Zipper Length Opening*** 3/8 "

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.VEST EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSArmhole*** 3/4 "Back - Across 1/4 "Back Length - Center*** 1 "Back Length - High Point Shoulder 1 "Belt Loop Length 1/8 "Belt Loop Width 1/8 "Chest/Bust*** 1 "Collar Height - Center Back 1/4 "Collarband/Tube Height 1/8 "Collar Point/Collar Height - Center Front 1/4 "Collar Spread 3/8 "Dart Length 1/4 "Hood Height 1/2 "Hood Width 1/4 "Neck Drop - Back 1/2 "Neck Drop - Front 1/2 "Neck Width Opening*** 1/2 "Placket Length 1/4 "Placket Width 1/8 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket - Hand Warmer opening 1/4 "Pocket Location - Center of Chest 1/4 "Pocket Location - High Point of Shoulder 1/4 "Pocket Welt Length 1/4 "Pocket Welt Opening 1/4 "Shoulder - Across 1/2 "Sweep*** 1 "Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab - Width 1/8 "Vent Length 1/4 "Waist 1 "Waistband Height 1/8 "Waist Tunnel Center 1/4 "Yoke Height - Back 3/8 "Yoke Height - Front 3/8 "

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.WOVEN/WOOL(11oz. & under) SHIRT/BLOUSE EVALUATION FORM



+/- MEAS. MEAS. MEAS. +/-MEASUREMENT SPEC. TOL 1 2 3 DIFF COMMENTSArmhole (***Critical if Sleeveless) 3/4 "Back - Across 1/4 "Back Length - Center*** +1"-1/2"Back Length - High Point Shoulder +1"-1/2"Belt Loop Length 1/8 "Belt Loop Width 1/8 "Bicep/Upper Arm 1/2 "Chest/Bust*** +1"-1/2"Collar Height - Center Back 1/4 "Collarband/Tube Height 1/8 "Collar Point/Collar Height - Center Front 1/4 "Collar Spread 1/4 "Cuff Height 1/4 "Cuff/Sleeve Opening*** 1/2 "Dart Length 1/4 "Elbow 1/2 "Hood Height 1/2 "Hood Width 1/4 "Neck Drop - Back 1/4 "Neck Drop - Front 1/4 "Neck Width Opening*** 3/8 "Placket Length 1/4 "Placket Width 1/8 "Pocket Flap Height 1/8 "Pocket Flap Width 1/8 "Patch Pocket Height 1/8 "Patch Pocket Width 1/8 "Pocket Location - Center of Chest 1/4 "Pocket Location - High Point of Shoulder 1/4 "Pocket Welt Length 1/4 "Pocket Welt Opening 1/4 "Shoulder - Across 1/2 "Sleeve Length - Center Back*** 1/2 "Sleeve Placket - Length 1/4 "Sleeve Placket - Width 1/8 "Sweep*** +1"-1/2"Tab - Length 1/4 "Tab - Width 1/8 "Vent Length 1/4 "Waist +1"-1/2"Yoke Height - Back 3/8 "Yoke Height - Front 3/8 "

COMMENT:


WOOLRICH, INC.Critical Measurements

Belt Dress Outerwear & Wool Shirt over 11 oz.Belt Length With Holes Armhole (If Sleeveless) Back Length-CenterBelt Length Without Holes Back Length- Center Chest/Bust

Chest/Bust Cuff/Sleeve OpeningBib Cuff/Sleeve Opening Neck Width OpeningHip/Seat Hip/Seat Sleeve Length-Center BackInseam Neck Width Opening SweepLeg Opening Sleeve Length-Center BackThigh Sweep Pant/ShortWaist Waist Crotch Gusset Width

Hip/SeatBlazer Hat InseamArmhole Circumference Opening-Extended Leg OpeningBack Length-Center Circumference Opening-Relaxed Rise-BackChest/Bust Crown Length Rise-FrontCuff/Sleeve Opening Crown Width ThighNeck Width Opening Waist - BandedSleeve Length-Center Back Jumper Waist-Elastic -ExtendedSweep Armhole Waist-Elastic-Relaxed

Back Length-Center Zipper Length OpeningChaps Chest/BustInseam Hip/Seat SkirtLeg Opening Neck Width Opening Back Length-CenterOutseam Sweep Hip/seatThigh Waist Sweep

Waist - BandedCoverall Knit Shirt-Sweater Waist-Elastic -ExtendedBack Length-Center Armhole (If Sleeveless) Waist-Elastic-RelaxedChest/Bust Back Length-Center (Knit Shirts) Zipper Length OpeningCuff/Sleeve Opening Chest/BustHip/Seat Cuff/Sleeve Opening VestInseam Front Body Length High Point Shoulder (Sweaters) ArmholeLeg Opening Neck Width Opening Back Length- CenterNeck Width Opening Sleeve Length-Center Back Chest/BustSleeve Length-Center Back Sweep Neck Width OpeningThigh Tube Width SweepWaist - BandedWaist-Elastic -Extended Nightwear/Lodgewear Wool Shirt 11 oz. & under/Woven Shirt Waist-Elastic-Relaxed Armhole (If Sleeveless) Armhole (If Sleeveless)

Back Length- Center Back Length- CenterChest/Bust Chest/BustCuff/Sleeve Opening Cuff/Sleeve OpeningNeck Width Opening Neck Width OpeningSleeve Length-Center Back Sleeve Length-Center BackSweep Sweep


Section 3 Quality Assurance

Summary The objective of Quality Assurance at Woolrich is to provide our customers with the best quality product available at reasonable price points. We are committed to a policy of active involvement with our vendors to provide the necessary information and assistance to produce top quality products that meet or exceed our expectations. The Quality Assurance Department works closely with our vendors throughout every phase of production. The verification of an acceptable quality product is accomplished through on site audits by our QA staff and by statistical audits of shipments once they are received at our Distribution Centers. The Woolrich auditors follow the same quality procedures discussed in this manual. The basic set of conditions used to determine acceptability of the product is found in the Product Specification Sheets (VME0001 Specification Package – see Exhibit section) discussed in Chapter III. The vendor is required to manufacture products in strict compliance with these specifications. The Product Quality Manual (Chapter 5 – Section 2) further defines product acceptability. The quality manual should be used throughout the manufacturing process. Any discrepancies found between the guidelines and actual production should be discussed immediately with the Woolrich Quality Assurance Department. The guidelines included in this manual are designed to assist the vendor in developing procedures and checkpoints for executing in line and end of line inspections, and completing final audits prior to shipping garments to the Woolrich Distribution Centers.


5/1/07


Raw Materials Testing Testing and Performance Requirements Woolrich requires the testing of all raw materials used in all products. The key criteria are performance, durability and reliability. Test results must be completed and submitted prior to final product approval by Quality Assurance. Lab test results are rated against standards established by the Woolrich Apparel Lab. These standards are based on the standards established by the American Association of Textile Colorists and Chemists (AATCC), the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) or the federal government. Each vendor should refer to these standards for the methods, conditions and specifications for each test. If you do not have access to these standards, please notify the Woolrich Apparel Lab. Your products are required to meet all specifications for appropriate categories. The Woolrich Apparel Lab will test all fabrics and trims supplied by Woolrich to our vendors. All full package suppliers are required to perform fabric and trim testing using either an in house lab or an outside testing facility. If an in house lab is not available, Woolrich can assist you in selecting an approved outside testing facility. The suppliers of your raw materials should also have regular testing procedures in place. It is essential that you communicate the Woolrich requirements to your suppliers in order to achieve compliance. The Woolrich performance requirements appear on pages 3.3 to 3.8a of this section. Any deviation from these requirements must be approved in writing from the Woolrich Apparel Lab.


5/1/07, Revised 11/19/07, 5/18/09, 10/6/10

Section 3Quality Assurance

Raw Materials Testing

Performance Standards - Knit Fabrics

All vendors are required to comply with the standards and test methods depicted in this matrix. All individual fabrics must meet the standards and perform in a finished garment.

Category AATCC Rating System: 5- Excellent I. All piece dyed jersey, interlock, pique, washed thermals 4- GoodII. Fabric or garment wash, poly fleece 3- FairIII. Body ribs, velour, heathers, fleece, jacquard, double pique, yarn dyes, stripes 2- PoorIV. All over prints, rib trims 1- Very PoorV. Thermals

Property Category Test MethodI II III IV V

Dimensional change tumble dry AATCC 135 Option 1Maximum % shrinkage length x width 7x7 5x5 8x8 10x7 10x10 3 launderingsDimensional change line dry AATCC 135 Option 1Maximum % shrinkage length x width 5x5 5x5 5x5 5x5 5x5 3 launderingsDimensional change dry clean AATCC 158 3 cycle dry clean,Maximum % shrinkage length x width 3x3 3x3 3x3 3x3 3x3 dry cleaned product onlyDimensional change tumble dry AATCC 135 Option 1Maximum % growth length x width 2x2 2x2 2x2 2x2 2x2 3 launderingsDimensional change line dry AATCC 135 Option 1Maximum % growth length x width 2x2 2x2 2x2 2x2 2x2 3 launderingsDimensional change dry clean AATCC 158 3 cycle dry clean,Maximum % growth length x width 2x2 2x2 2x2 2x2 2x2 dry cleaned product onlyStretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics ASTM D2594 (Growth after 1 hr +/- 5 min)

Loose fitting (comfort stretch)Having Low Power ASTM D2594 (Growth after 1 hr +/- 5 min)

Form Fitting (Semi-Support)Pilling Resistance 100% cotton ASTM D 3512 minimum spun synthetic blendSkewness change/garment twist resulting AATCC 179 3x carefrom home laundering

Chapter V: Manufacturing5/1/2007, Revised 11/19/07, 5/18/09 Page 3.3

Growth--Wales(length) 5% Max/Courses(width) 15% Max Stretch--Wales(length) 15% Min/ Courses(width) 15% Min. Growth--Wales(length) 5% Max/ Courses(width) 15% Max Stretch--Wales(length) 30% Min/ Courses(width) 30% Min.

4.0 for all categories3.0 for all categories

4.0% Maximum



Performance Standards - Knit Fabrics

Property Category Test Methods

I II III IV VBursting strength (PSI) minimum ASTM D 3786 Colorfastness to home laundry shade AATCC 61 (II A Wash)minimum stain Colorfastness to drycleaning shade AATCC 132minimum stain Colorfastness to light minimum AATCC 16 Option 3 20 HoursColorfastness to perspiration shade AATCC 15minimum stain Crocking dry AATCC 8minimum wetFrosting minimum AATCC 120Colorfastness to water minimum stain AATCC 107Water Repellency new AATCC 22 minimum after laundry Original - 3 launderings, or 3 cycles dry cleaningFlammability CFR 1610Formaldehyde release AATCC 112Fabric weight - ounces per square yard Construction course and wale/1" count

Shedding/fur/pile/sliver knits Woolrich in-house method

Any variance from these standards must be agreed upon in writing by Woolich and the vendor.

Chapter V: Manufacturing5/1/2007, Revised 11/19/07, 5/18/09, 9/19/16 Page 3.4

Restricted substances adherance to AAFA RSL

3.0 for all categories-4.5 for color block


AAFA RSL can be found at: http://www.apparelandfootwear.org/Resources/RestrictedSubstances.asp

no excessive shedding

4.0 for all categories


90 for all categories70 for all categories


3.0 pigment dye; all others 4.03.0 for all categories


+/-5% for all categories

Class I for all categories 500 ppm maximum for all categories

+10%, -5% for all categories

2.0 pigment dye; all others 3.0

55 for all categories4.0 for all categories




Performance Standards - Woven Fabrics

All vendors are required to comply with the standards and test methods depicted in this matrix. All individual fabrics must meet the standards and perform in a finished garment.

Category AATCC Rating System: 5- Excellent I. Greater than 9 oz/sqyd, outerwear, jeans, hunting, slacks, shirts, sports coats 4- GoodII. 5.0-9.0 oz/sqyd (not wool) robes, skirts, dresses, skorts, shirts, jeans, slacks, shorts 3- Fair outerwear, pants, sports coats 2- PoorIII. Less than 5 oz/sqyd (non-wool), less than 9.0 oz/sqyd wool, swimwear, casual slacks, shorts, 1-Very Poor outerwearIV. Less than 5.0 oz/sqyd nightwear, skirts, dresses, culottes, blouses, shirts V. Madras, Seersucker

Property Category Test MethodI II III IV V

Dimensional change laundering AATCC 135 Option 1Maximum % shrinkage length and width 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 5.0 3 launderingsDimensional change dry clean AATCC 158Maximum shrinkage length x width 3x3 3x3 3x3 3x3 3x3 dry cleaned product onlyDimensional change laundering AATCC 135 Option 1Maximum % growth length and width 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 3 launderingsDimensional change dry clean AATCC 158direction stretch and recovery 80% for all categoriesPilling Resistance 100% cotton, wool ASTM D 3512minimum spun synthetic blendWater Repellency new AATCC 22 minimum after laundry Original - 3 launderings, or 3 cycles dry cleaningTensile strength lbs. force warp/fill minimum 50 40 30 25 25 ASTM D5034 , Grab method


5.0 unwashed chamois, unwashed flannel, washable wool

70 for all categories

4.0 for all categories3.0 for all categories90 for all categories



Performance Standards - Woven Fabrics

Property Category Test MethodsI II III IV V

Seam Slippage lbs. force warp/fill minimum 30 25 20 18 18 ASTM D434Tear Resistance lbs. force warp/fill minimum 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.5 ASTM D1424Colorfastness to launderng shade AATCC 61 (II A wash)minimum stain Colorfastness to drycleaning shade AATCC 132minimum stain Colorfastness to light minimum AATCC 16 option 3 20 hours (40 hours for hunting garments)Colorfastness to perspiration shade AATCC 15minimum stain Crocking dry AATCC 8minimum wetColorfastness to water minimum stain AATCC 107Ozone minimum AATCC 109Flammability CFR 1610Formaldehyde release AATCC 112Fabric weight - ounces per square yard Construction


Any variance from these standards must be agreed upon in writing by Woolich and the vendor. Chapter V: Manufacturing

5/1/2007, Revised 11/19/07, 5/18/09, 9/19/16 Page 3.6

Restricted substances adherance to AAFA RSLAAFA RSL can be found at: http://www.apparelandfootwear.org/Resources/RestrictedSubstances.asp


+/-5% for all categories




Class I for all categories



500 ppm maximum for all categories+10%, -5% for all categories

2.0 pigment dye; all others 3.03.0 pigment dye; all others 4.0



4.0 for all categories4.0 for all categories



Performance Standards - Interlinings/Insulations (Including Down)

All interlining fabrics, down proof fabrics, and insulation (including down) must meet the standards shown in this matrix. Failure of any insulation product will fail the product. Any changes to standards must be approve in writing by Woolrich and the manufacturing facility.

Property Standard Test Method

Evenness of Loft +/-10.0% Woolrich method; evenness is measured from side to sidePhysical Fillproof rating of good IDFL Method Must pass before and after one care cycleFabric Weight +10.0%/-5.0% Woolrich methodPhysical Downproof 4 minimum IDFL Method Must pass before and after one care cycle

Air Permeability

5 cfm maximum for calendared, 0 cfm maximum

for coated IDFL Method Must pass before and after one care cycleThread Count specified count before care +/- 5%Dimensional change, one care cycleDown Insulation Requirements Federal Standard 148A

Content Analysismin 75% Down Cluster, min

5% Down Fiber Combined Down Cluster and Down Fiber must = 80% +/- 2% IDFB Method

Species Analysis 90% of claimed species +/- 5% If species claims are made IDFB MethodOxygen Number 4.8 Maximum +/- 1.6 IDFL Method

Turbidy 500 minimum +/- 5% IDFL MethodFill Power as specified +/- 5% IDFB Steam Method

All full package vendors are required to submit all new insulation fabrics to the Woolrich lab for approval prior to manufacturing products.

Chapter V: Manufacturing

5/1/2007, Revised 11/19/07, 8/14/08, 10/6/10 Page 3.7

refer to woven/knit requirements for fabric type



Performance Standards - Trim Components

All vendors are required to comply with the standards and test methods depicted in this matrix. Failure of any trim component will fail the product. Any changes to standards must be approved in writing by Woolrich and the manufacturing facility.


Knit trimFollow required testing for knit fabrics-with exception of colorfastness standard listed below

Woven trimFollow required testing for woven fabrics-with exception of colorfastness standard listed below

Colorfastness to laudering/dry cleaning 4.0 min. stain AATCC 61/AATCC132Buttons, toggles: attachment strength 15 lbs. minimum

affect of heat /color fastness/color change 4.0 min. item is put through 3 care cylces and evaluated for shade changesSnaps: attachment strength 15 lbs. minimum ASTM D1683 (modified)Zippers: holding strength of slider lock 15 lbs. minimum ASTM D2061

resistance to pull off of slider pull 15 lbs. minimum ASTM D2061bottom stop holding strength 15 lbs. minimum ASTM D2061

top stop holding strength 15 lbs. minimum ASTM D2061chain crosswise strength 50 lbs. minimum ASTM D2061

appearance after care 4.0 min. stainzipper is put through 3 care cylces and visually examined for apperance changes such as shrinkage, staining

affect of heat /color fastness/color change 4.0 min. zipper is put through 3 care cylces and evaluated for shade changesThreads: crocking 4.0 dry/ 3.0 wet AATCC 8

colorfastness to light 4.0 AATCC 16 option 3 - 20 hoursMetal Components must be plated or rust proofAny other trim not listed above colorfastness 4.0 min. stain item is put through 3 care cylces and evaluated for shade changesAny other trim not listed above attachment strength 15 lbs. minimumAll trim items must pass all colorfastness tests, including crocking



Restricted substances adherance to AAFA RSLAAFA RSL can be found at: http://www.apparelandfootwear.org/Resources/RestrictedSubstances.asp




Performance Standards - Special Features

All fabrics claiming enhanced features must be tested to ensure they perform to expected levels. Failure of any fabric will fail the product. Any changes to standards must be approve in writing by Woolrich and the manufacturing facility.


UV Protectionmust meet fabric vendor's

claimed UPF rating AATCC 183

Wrinkle Resistance - garment form - minimum

fabric smoothness 3.5 seam smoothness 3.5 crease retention

4.0 AATCC 143Soil Release - minimum 4.0 AATCC 130Oil Repellency - minimum 5.0 AATCC 118Water Resistance Rain Test - maximum 1.0 gram AATCC 35Dry Time (Quick Dry) - minimum 80% dry @ 30 min. Woolrich In House MethodVertical Wicking - minimum 4"-5" @ 30 minutes Woolrich In House Method

Water Resistance - Hydrostaticmust meet fabric vendor's

claimed rating AATCC 127, JIS L1092A, JIS L1092B - based on vendors quoted test method

Water Vapor Transmissionmust meet fabric vendor's

claimed rating ASTM E96 W/BW, JIS L1099 B1 - based on vendors quoted test method

Anti-Bacterialno growth directly under

specimen AATCC 147

Other special features not listedmust meet fabric vendor's

claimed rating based on vendors quoted test method

All full package vendors are required to submit all new fabrics to the Woolrich lab for approval prior to manufacturing products.

Chapter V: Manufacturing10/6/2010 Page 3.8a


Acceptance Sampling Quality Audits All merchandise received at the Woolrich Distribution Centers is subject to inspection for conformance to quality and measurement specifications. If the selected sample passes the acceptance criteria, the entire shipment will be accepted. If the sample is rejected, the entire shipment is placed on hold until final disposition is determined. The statistical quality inspection follows the ASNI/ASQ Z 1.4 Level II Single Sampling Plan published by the American National Standard Institute, and adopted by the American Society for Quality. The Woolrich Quality Assurance Department audits to an acceptable quality level of 4.0%. (Refer to pages 3.17, 3.18, and 3.19 for 4.0 sampling plan.) The plan recognizes that a certain amount of risk is assumed in statistical sampling; however, the risk factor is biased in favor of the vendor. The chances of accepting a questionable shipment are greater than the chances of rejecting an acceptable shipment. Count Integrity Audits – VMF0008 Count Integrity Form – see Forms section All merchandise received at the Woolrich Distribution Centers is subject to inspection for conformance to count and accuracy requirements. If the selected sample passes the acceptance criteria, the entire shipment will be accepted. If the sample is rejected, the entire shipment is subject to a minimum chargeback of $100. See Chapter IV for further information on chargebacks. Count is defined as the number of cartons received and the number of garments contained in each carton. Accuracy is defined as the style, color, and size contained in each carton. The Woolrich Quality Assurance Department will determine a sample quantity based on 2.5% (refer to pages 3.14, 3.15, and 3.16)of the total WIP units. If the error rate is greater than 1% of sample quantity, then an additional 2.5% of WIP quantity will be sampled. If the error rate after second sampling is greater than 1% of total combined units of first and second sampling, but there is only a single carton discrepancy, the WIP will be accepted. If the error rate after second sampling is greater than 1% of total combined units of first and second sampling, but there are at least two carton discrepancies, the WIP will be rejected, and will be 100% rescreened for count, with a minimum chargeback of $100.


5/1/07


Rejected Merchandise The Quality Assurance Department determines the disposition of unacceptable shipments. The vendor is notified of the problem and the decision regarding disposition. At the discretion of Woolrich, rejected shipments will either be 100% inspected by the Woolrich Rescreen Department, inspected and repaired by a Woolrich approved contractor, or returned to the vendor for inspection and repair. If shipments are returned to the vendor for repair, an audit sheet indicating the cause for the rejection will be returned with the shipment. (VMF0009 Garment Quality Inspection Form and VF0010A to VMF0010P Measurement Evaluation Forms – see Form section) In any case, the vendor will be assessed charges for all costs incurred in resolving the problem. Please refer to Chapter VI chargebacks and return to vendor policies. Substandard Products Substandard products, or seconds, are defined as products that retain full functional use; however, they may have shading, fabric flaws, off-standard color, out of tolerance measurements, or any other defect that does not affect wearability or durability of the product. Substandard products must not contain holes. At the discretion of Woolrich Quality Assurance, an entire shipment or a portion of a shipment can be classified as substandards, depending on the type and severity of quality problem. In any case, the vendor will be assessed a chargeback for the substandard products. All vendors who ship substandard products to the Woolrich Distribution Centers are required to separate the seconds from first quality products and mark the cartons “substandard”. A Seconds by Cause form (VMF0011 Seconds by Cause Form – see Form section) must be submitted to Quality Assurance prior to shipping the seconds. Full package suppliers are required to retain seconds at the manufacturing location. Woolrich Quality Assurance will audit all substandard products following the same procedures used for first quality garments.


5/1/07 Revised 2/23/10


Imperfect Products Imperfect products, or thirds, are defined as products that do not retain full functional use. These garments have holes (any type) in fabric, dramatic soilage or any obvious defects that affect garment wearability or durability. At the discretion of Woolrich Quality Assurance, an entire shipment or a portion of a shipment can be classified as imperfects, depending on the type and severity of quality problem. In any case, the vendor will be assessed a chargeback. All vendors who ship imperfect products to the Woolrich Distribution Centers are required to separate the imperfects from first quality products and mark the cartons “imperfects”. Full package suppliers are required to retain imperfects at the manufacturing location. Woolrich Quality Assurance will audit all imperfect products following the same procedures used for first quality garments. All vendors are required to follow specific procedures for handling substandard and imperfect products. Please refer to Section 4 for these procedures.


5/1/07


Acceptance Sampling Sampling Plan Parameters Defect Classification The Woolrich Quality Assurance Department classifies defects in two ways – minor defects, and major defects. Under most circumstances, only major defects will be considered in applying the sampling plan. If minor defects appear frequently in either an individual product or throughout the sample size, the shipment could be rejected. Lot Size The lot size is the amount received in one shipment. A lot consists of one style number, one color, and one WIP number found on an individual Purchase Order. If a WIP is sent in more than one shipment, each amount will be treated as a separate lot. For example, if a WIP contains 500 units and the first shipment is 300 units, these 300 units will be considered a complete lot. The remaining 200 units will also be treated as a complete lot when received at the Distribution Center.


5/1/07


Inspection Levels The Level II Single Sampling Plan procedure taken from the ANSI/ASQC Z 1.4 – MILSTD 105D contains three inspection levels. Definitions of these inspection levels are shown below. The sampling plan tables for each level are shown on the following three pages. 1. Normal Inspection is used for inspection of original shipments received from

any vendor. Normal inspection is also used when a vendor changes manufacturing locations or an extended period of time (6 months or longer) elapses between receipts. (Table 1 – Page 3.14 and 3.17)

2. Tightened Inspection is used after two (2) consecutive shipments/lots received

from a vendor fail normal inspection. A larger number of items are inspected under the tightened inspection plan. Re-submitted lots are ignored by this rule. Normal inspection will resume after two (2) consecutive shipments/lots pass tightened inspection. (Table 2 – Page 3.15 and 3.18)

3. Reduced Inspection is used after five (5) consecutive shipments from a vendor

are accepted under normal inspection. Normal inspection is resumed if one (1) shipment from a vendor fails inspection under the reduced inspection plan. (Table 3 – Page 3.16 and 3.19)

Re-Submitted Lots Rejected lots that are returned to the vendor must be 100% inspected prior to re-submitting the lot to Woolrich. The vendor must repair, clean or otherwise correct all defective units, or they can not be included in the re-submitted lot. All re-submitted lots will be re-audited by Woolrich under the original sampling plan.


5/1/07


INSPECTION AND MEASUREMENT TABLE 1 NORMAL INSPECTION

2.5% AQL

Lot Size Sample Size Accept Reject

2 to 8 2 0 1

9 to 15 3 0 1

16 to 25 5 0 1

26 to 50 8 0 1

51 to 90 13 1 2

91 to 150 20 1 2

151 to 280 32 2 3

281 to 500 50 3 4

501 to 1200 80 5 6

1201 to 3200 125 7 8

3201 to 10000 200 10 11

Chapter V: Quality Assurance Page 3.14

5/1/07


INSPECTION AND MEASUREMENT TABLE 2 TIGHTENED INSPECTION

2.5% AQL


2 to 8 2 0 1

9 to 15 3 0 1

16 to 25 5 0 1

26 to 50 8 0 1

51 to 90 13 0 1

91 to 150 20 0 1

151 to 280 32 1 2

281 to 500 50 2 3

501 to 1200 80 3 4

1201 to 3200 125 5 6

3201 to 10000 200 8 9


5/1/07


INSPECTION AND MEASUREMENT TABLE 3 REDUCED INSPECTION

2.5% AQL


2 to 8 2 0 1

9 to 15 2 0 1

16 to 25 2 0 1

26 to 50 3 0 1

51 to 90 5 0 2

91 to 150 8 0 2

151 to 280 13 1 3

281 to 500 20 1 4

501 to 1200 32 2 5

1201 to 3200 50 3 6

3201 to 10000 80 5 8


5/1/07

Section 3

Quality Assurance

INSPECTION AND MEASUREMENT TABLE 1 NORMAL INSPECTION

4.0% AQL


2 to 8 2 0 1

9 to 15 3 0 1

16 to 25 5 0 1

26 to 50 8 0 1

51 to 90 13 1 2

91 to 150 20 2 3

151 to 280 32 3 4

281 to 500 50 5 6

501 to 1200 80 7 8

1201 to 3200 125 10 11

3201 to 10000 200 14 15

Chapter VII: Quality Assurance Page 3.17

5/1/07


INSPECTION AND MEASUREMENT TABLE 2 TIGHTENED INSPECTION

4.0% AQL


2 to 8 2 0 1

9 to 15 3 0 1

16 to 25 5 0 1

26 to 50 8 1 2

51 to 90 13 1 2

91 to 150 20 1 2

151 to 280 32 2 3

281 to 500 50 3 4

501 to 1200 80 5 6

1201 to 3200 125 8 9

3201 to 10000 200 12 13


5/1/07


INSPECTION AND MEASUREMENT TABLE 3 REDUCED INSPECTION

4.0% AQL


2 to 8 2 0 1

9 to 15 2 0 1

16 to 25 2 0 1

26 to 50 3 0 2

51 to 90 5 0 2

91 to 150 8 1 3

151 to 280 13 1 4

281 to 500 20 2 5

501 to 1200 32 3 6

1201 to 3200 50 5 8

3201 to 10000 80 7 10


5/1/07


Approved Vendors The Vendor Approval Program recognizes suppliers who pass a formal evaluation of their production facilities by the Woolrich Vendor Evaluation Team. These suppliers are designated as approved vendors, capable of consistently meeting or exceeding Woolrich quality standards. Depending on approval status, specific products manufactured by approved vendors may not incur routine audits by QA, or they may be audited under the reduced inspection level. An in depth discussion of the Evaluation/Approval Process is found in Chapter II. Each quarter, Woolrich uses a Performance Scorecard to rate each vendor. The approval status can remain the same, or be raised or lowered, depending on the rating received. Key Criteria Every supplier manufacturing Woolrich products will receive a performance rating every three months. The key quality criteria are:

• Quality of Product – The vendor will be rated against the required 4.0% acceptable quality level, including major defects and measurements.

• Quality of Service – The vendor will be rated for on time delivery of products

• Quality of Shipment -- The vendor will be rated for compliance to packing and shipping requirements


5/1/07

Section 4 Quality Procedures

Overview The Woolrich Quality Assurance Department follows certain procedures to ensure that all products meet or exceed customer expectations. We require that our vendors follow the same procedures to ensure compliance before manufacturing begins. Failure to follow the required procedures will result in rejected shipments and chargebacks. We also strongly recommend that all vendors adopt inspection and auditing procedures that will assist in meeting the required acceptable quality level and reduce the cost of “unquality”. Required Procedures Woolrich, Inc. supplies many of our vendors with the fabrics and trim items to be used in the manufacturing process. In these cases, we will automatically perform the required tests on fabric and trim. Only our full package vendors who supply all fabrics and trims are required to follow these procedures. Submitting Fabric and Trim for Testing All new fabrics and trim items must be submitted to the Woolrich Apparel Lab for testing before production can begin. The Apparel lab will periodically test current fabrics to ensure consistency. The minimum standards and test procedures used by the Apparel lab are discussed in Section 3. All vendors who perform in house testing, or send fabrics to outside labs, must ensure that the test methods are the same as those used by the Woolrich Apparel Lab.


5/1/07, Revised 11/19/07


Submitting Fabric for Flammability Testing (Production Lot Testing) All raised surface garments must be tested for flammability properties. The Woolrich Apparel Lab will test all fabric lots in accordance with US Federal Regulation CFR 1610. The vendor must submit samples of all napped/brushed fabrics to the Woolrich Apparel Lab for production lot testing. All fabrics must pass the Class I flammability requirements, in addition to passing Woolrich standards for color/hand, weight, shrinkage, and crocking. Failure to submit fabric for testing and/or not passing the Class I requirements will void the LC. Wool Fabric Testing (Production Lot Testing) All fabrics containing wool are required to be submitted for production lot testing, and must meet Woolrich standards for color/hand, shrinkage, and weight. Down Testing Vendors are required to test all down used in all Woolrich garments. Testing must be done in a certified laboratory. On occasion, the Woolrich Apparel Lab may request down and/or downproof fabric samples for testing in our own facilities. Down Proof Fabric Testing Vendors are required to test all down proof fabric used in all Woolrich garments. Testing must be performed by IDFL. On occasion, the Woolrich Apparel Lab may request down proof fabric samples for testing. Wrinkle Resistance Garment Testing Vendors are required to test all wrinkle resistant garments. Testing must be done in a certified laboratory. Substandard and Imperfect Products All vendors returning substandard and imperfect products to the Woolrich Distribution Center are required to follow specific procedures for marking, packaging and shipping these products. All substandard and imperfect products must be reported to Quality Assurance prior to receiving the goods at the Distribution Center.


5/1/07, Revised 5/18/09, 10/6/10


Washdown and Color Standards All vendors must maintain shade standards for all Woolrich products to ensure compliance to the established washdown/color. Once Merchandising approves the initial standards, Quality Assurance will issue swatches to all our vendors. The vendors are responsible for maintaining current standards. The procedures for handling these washdown/color standards are shown in this section. Non-conformance to shade standards must be reported to Quality Assurance prior to receiving the goods at the Distribution Center. In some cases, Quality Assurance may request a sample of the non-conformance to determine if the products are acceptable.


5/1/07


Recommended Procedures Fabric Inspection Plan Woolrich inspects rolls of fabric before they are introduced into the manufacturing process. We follow the US industry standard procedures for acceptance and rejection of bulk fabrics. We recommend that all full package vendors adopt these inspection procedures to ensure that all fabric is acceptable for finished products prior to the start of manufacturing. Please note that all full package vendors are responsible for issues regarding bulk fabric. In Process Inspection Procedures A totally integrated quality system can not be realized until procedures are in place to inspect work in process. Although we do not require our vendors to adopt identical procedures to those used by Woolrich, we do require that all vendors inspect every operation in the manufacturing process. A member of the Woolrich Quality Assurance Department will periodically visit each vendor to review these in process procedures. Final Audit Procedures All vendors are required to audit all Woolrich products prior to shipping the goods to the Woolrich Distribution Centers. This audit should parallel the audit procedures and sampling plans used by the Woolrich Quality Assurance auditors. A member of the Quality Assurance Department will perform on site audits at each vendor location using the required Woolrich sampling plan and acceptable quality level. Any questions regarding any of the following procedures should be directed to the Woolrich Quality Assurance Department.


5/1/07


Fabric Testing Procedures To ensure that all fabrics used by Woolrich suppliers meet Woolrich fabric standards, all suppliers must comply with the following procedures. The Woolrich Apparel Lab will test all new fabrics prior to production. Periodic testing will also be done on current fabrics to ensure compliance to standards. Test Methods – Knits and Woven Fabrics New Fabrics 1. Each supplier producing garments will submit 2-3 yards of all new fabric to the

Woolrich Fabric Coordinator. These pieces should be labeled with the supplier’s name, fabric identification, style numbers, with face side clearly marked; then submitted to the Fabric Coordinator, along with fabric specifications– i.e. supplying company, content, weight, suggested care. A submission form must be included with the fabrics. (VME0018A Woven/Knit Fabric Submission Form, VME0018B Interlining Fabric Submission Form – see Exhibit Section)

2. The Fabric Coordinator will forward all test fabrics to the Woolrich Apparel Lab. 3. The Apparel Lab will test the fabric according to the test methods discussed in

Section 3, pages 3.3 – 3.6 and 3.8a. 4. When testing is completed, the Apparel Lab will forward a copy of the results to

the Fabric Coordinator. The supplier will receive a copy of the test results from the Fabric Coordinator. If the results are acceptable, production can proceed. If the results are rejected, the supplier must submit additional yardage, following the same procedure in (1) above.

5. Once the fabric has been accepted, the Fabric Coordinator will approve color

standards. Current Fabrics 1. At the request of the Woolrich Apparel Lab and/or the Woolrich Fabric

Coordinator, periodic testing on current fabrics will be done. The same testing procedure for new fabrics will be used on current fabrics.


5/1/07, Revised 5/18/09, 10/6/10


Test Methods – Production Lot Testing All raised surface woven fabrics, and all fabrics containing wool must be submitted to the Woolrich Apparel Lab for color/hand approval and lot testing. One (1) yard of full width fabric from each finishing lot should be submitted directly to the Woolrich Apparel Lab, and should be identified with: face side clearly marked, Woolrich trim number, style number(s), color, and WIP number(s). An advance ship notification should be sent to the Woolrich Apparel Lab when fabric ships. Notice should contain Woolrich trim number, style number(s), color, and WIP number(s). Once color/hand is approved, the fabric will undergo required testing, based on fabric type. Woven Raised Surface Fabrics 1. Flammability, weight, shrinkage, and colorfastness to crocking will be tested. Lot

testing fabrics must meet the Woolrich Woven Fabric Performance Standards, as outlined in Chapter V, Section 3, pages 3.5-3.6 of the Woolrich Vendor Manual. Other aspects of a fabric may be tested at the discretion of the Woolrich Apparel Lab.

2. Once testing is complete, the Woolrich Apparel Lab will send notice of acceptance/rejection to the vendor.

Wool Fabrics 1. Weight and shrinkage (for washable wools) will be tested. Lot testing fabrics

must meet the Woolrich Woven Fabric Performance Standards, as outlined in Chapter V, Section 3, pages 3.5-3.6 of the Woolrich Vendor Manual. Other aspects of a fabric may be tested at the discretion of the Woolrich Apparel Lab.

2. Once testing is complete, the Woolrich Apparel Lab will send notice of acceptance/rejection to the vendor.

Production lot test fabric should be invoiced to Woolrich and sent “bill recipient” (Woolrich pays shipping.) Should an initial production lot fabric (1st submit) be rejected for color/hand, or for failing to meet Woolrich performance standards, improved fabric needs resubmitted (2nd submit.) 2nd submit fabric should be invoiced to Woolrich and sent “bill recipient” (Woolrich pays shipping.) If the 2nd submit is rejected for color/hand, or for failing to meet Woolrich performance standards, improved fabric needs resubmitted (3rd submit.) For all 3rd (or greater) submits, Woolrich should not be invoiced for the fabric, nor the shipping charges (bill sender.) The vendor should make every effort to send production lot testing fabric that conforms to Woolrich color standards and performance standards. If, after 2 submits, the fabric is still found to be rejectable, then the vendor assumes all costs for submitting the production lot testing fabric.


5/1/07, Revised 11/19/07, 5/18/09, 10/6/10


Down Testing Procedures The following procedures must be used for obtaining down samples for analysis. A certified, independent laboratory must carry out the analysis. The Woolrich approved independent lab for down testing is: International Down and Feather Testing Laboratory Methods 1. Samples of down should be 10% of the total number of bags comprising the total

lot. For example, if the total lot contains 200 bags, 20 bags must be sampled. 2. The down samples should be randomly pulled from the top, middle, and bottom

of each bag. The samples should be combined and secured together. The combined sample must weight 2 ounces or more.

3. All samples containing different lot numbers and/or identification number should

be kept separately. 4. The down lot or identification number must be correlated with the style number,

color and WIP number in which the down is to be used. This information must be forwarded to the Woolrich Apparel lab.

5. The vendor should forward the test results to the Woolrich Apparel Lab. The

style(s), color(s), and WIP number(s) that will contain the down tested should be sent with the test results.

6. The Apparel Lab will send an accept/reject notice to the vendor. If the lot is

accepted, the Apparel lab will also supply a sequence number to be recorded on all documentation, and on the SCC label inside each garment.

7. The vendor is required to supply the Woolrich style number, color and WIP# that

will carry the assigned sequence number prior to shipping the garments.


5/1/07, Revised 11/19/07, 10/6/10


Down Procedures (cont’d.) 8. The vendor letter of credit will have a completed, signed certification and

continuing guarantee form with the test report attached. The form should be dated and signed by an authorized officer. The officer should include his/her title. This form should include the style, WIP numbers and quantity shipped. It should state the following:

We certify the down utilized in these garments is solely from the lot as per copy of the test report attached. Hereto, we guarantee the

garments were manufactured in full compliance with the United States Federal Standard 148a, entitled “Classification, Identification and Testing

of Feather Filling Material”. Please contact the Woolrich Apparel Lab, with questions regarding this procedure. Down Proof Fabric Testing Procedures Each finishing lot of down proof fabric used in Woolrich product should be tested to meet Woolrich’s physical downproof standards as outlined in Chapter V, Section 3, page 3.7. The Woolrich approved independent lab for downproof fabric testing is: International Down and Feather Testing Laboratory 1. Each finishing lot of downproof fabric must be submitted for testing. 2. The fabric must be identified with the Woolrich fabric trim number, be

correlated with a style number, color and WIP number in which the down proof fabric is used.

3. The vendor will forward the test results to the Woolrich Apparel Lab for approval

along with the style(s), color, WIP number(s) the fabric will be used in. 4. The Apparel Lab will send an accept/reject notice to the vendor.


5/1/07, Revised 5/18/09, 10/6/10


Wrinkle Resistant Garment Testing To ensure that all wrinkle resistant garments produced by Woolrich suppliers meet Woolrich standards, all suppliers must comply with the following procedures. The Woolrich Apparel Lab may test wrinkle resistant garments prior to production. Periodic testing may also be done on current garments to ensure compliance to standards. Test Methods – Wrinkle Resistant Garment 1. Each supplier producing wrinkle resistant Woolrich products will submit a

garment to an approved independent lab for appearance testing. Woolrich approved independent labs are: Intertek Testing Services (ITS) and SGS Testing Services.

2. Testing will be required once per style per purchase order. 3. When testing is completed the supplier will send a copy of the test results

directly to the Woolrich Apparel Lab. The style, color and WIP number(s) should be supplied in addition to the test results.

4. The Woolrich Apparel Lab will send notice of acceptance/rejection to the vendor.

Chapter V: Manufacturing Page 4.8a

10/6/10


Trim Testing Procedures To ensure that all trim items used by Woolrich suppliers meet Woolrich trim standards, all suppliers must comply with the following procedures. The Woolrich Apparel Lab will test all new trim items prior to production. Periodic testing will also be done on current trim items to ensure compliance to standards. Trim items include buttons, snaps, toggles, zippers, threads, knit trims, and any other item added to the product during the manufacturing process. Test Methods – New Trim Items 1. Each supplier producing Woolrich products will submit a pre-determined number

of each trim item to the Woolrich Product Development Department. The supplier will also submit 2 yards of fabric to which the trim item will be attached. The trim items should be labeled with the supplier’s name, trim identification, and style numbers and submitted to the Woolrich Product Development Department, along with trim specifications – i.e. supplying company, content, weight, suggested care. A submission form must be included with the fabrics. (VME0019 Trim/Findings Submission Form – see Exhibit section)

2. Product Development will attach the trim items using the correct fabrics to be

used in the garment for testing purposes, and forward to the lab for testing. A trim submission form must be included with the trim item. (VMF0018 Trim Testing Request Form – see Form section) The lab will test the trim items according to our designated test methods.

3. When testing is completed, Product Development will receive a copy of the test

results, and will forward testing results to the supplier. If the results are acceptable, production can proceed. If the results are rejected, the supplier must submit additional trim items and yardage, following the same procedure in (1) above. Minimum standards for trim items are shown in Section 3, page 3.8.

Test Methods – Current Trim Items 1. At the request of the Woolrich Apparel Lab, periodic testing on current trim

items will be done. The same test procedures as above will be used.


5/1/07, Revised 11/19/07, 5/18/09


Product Testing-CPSIA General Conformity Certification Procedure for Flammability Standard 16CFR Part 1610 General Congress enacted the Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) of 2008. This act requires that any product manufactured on or after November 12, 2008 and imported into the US, be certified that it complies with any existing CPSC standard, ban, regulation or act. Since apparel is subject to the general wearing apparel standard, it must be certified that it complies with the flammability standards specified in 16 CFR Part 1610. The US CPSA has since decided that it will not pursue compliance or enforcement actions for failure to make available to the commission a general conformity certificate with respect to adult wearing apparel that is exempt from testing pursuant to 16 CFR 1610.1(d). Only adult apparel that is not exempt from flammability testing is required to be tested/certified. For styles that need tested/certified, Woolrich requires the vendor/agent to submit garments to a Woolrich approved, independent lab, to ensure compliance to 16 CFR Part 1610. All garments submitted for independent testing must receive a Class I (Normal Flammability) rating. Procedure The Woolrich Apparel Lab will provide a listing of garments that are not exempt from flammability testing and require testing for certification.

1. Vendor/agent is responsible to submit the following to an independent lab to ensure compliance to

16 CFR Part 1610:

a. One salesman sample garment in one color of each style from the list of required styles manufactured within a given manufacturing season. The garment must be identified with the style number, description, season, and place of manufacture.

b. One first-round bulk production garment in one color of each style from the list of required styles manufactured within a given manufacturing season. The garment must be identified with the style number, description, season, and place of manufacture.

2. Upon completion of the testing, the agent/vendor shall e-mail the test results to Teena Hedglin at

[email protected] .

3 Woolrich will review the test results and will notify the vendor/agent if a certificate can be issued.

a. If testing results indicate compliance to 16CFR Part 1610, Woolrich will issue a partially completed “General Conformity Certificate” (also referred herein as certificate) for the respective style/season to the vendor/agent. (VME0022 Woolrich Inc. General Conformity Certificate – see Exhibit section)

b. If the garment submitted for testing fails compliance to 16CFR Part 1610, no General Conformity Certificate will be issued. Vendor shall not ship product without a General Conformity Certificate issued by Woolrich.


Page 4.9a 5/18/09, Rev. 8/12/16


4. Once Woolrich issues a partially completed General Conformity Certificate, the vendor shall be responsible for completing the manufacturer information on the certificate. Please note, Woolrich will provide all required information on the General Conformity Certificate, except manufacturer information. The manufacturer information should include the manufacturing city and state, country or administrative region of manufacture. If the manufacturer operates more than one location in the same city, the street address of the factory should be provided. The name of the manufacturing company is not required and for confidentiality reasons, should not be provided. If the style is being manufactured in different manufacturing locations, separate certificates are required for each manufacturing location.

5. Once the vendor/agent completes the manufacturer information, the agent/vendor e-mails the

completed certificate to Woolrich, to the attention of Teena Hedglin ([email protected]). The vendor shall retain the original completed General Conformity Certificate on file. Woolrich will re-issue new General Conformity Certificates each manufacturing season, for each garment style, once it receives passing test results for the manufacturing season. Woolrich and the vendor/agent will retain the completed general conformity certificates on file for a minimum of 3 years. All certificates on file must be accompanied by supporting lab test results.

6. General Conformity Certificates are specific to a particular manufacturing location. Therefore if a

manufacturing location changes after a certificate has already been issued, new testing and consequently, new certificates are required.

7. Woolrich has approved the following testing companies to perform 16 CFR Part 1610 on behalf of

Woolrich. Testing performed at a facility other than these will be considered invalid unless approved in advance by Woolrich.

Intertek Testing Services SGS Testing Services Consumer Testing Laboratories

FAQ’s

1. Q: I have two garment styles that take the same fabric. Can I have one lab test to represent both garment styles?

A: No. A certificate is required for each garment style. Therefore, a separate lab test is required for each garment style.


Page 4.9b 5/18/09


2. Q: Can I send fabric for testing instead of garments?

A: No: The General Conformity Certificate is a certification of a finished product. Since fabric is only one element of the finished product (garment) and does not account for other materials or garment design, testing cannot be based upon fabric. Only testing of finished garments is acceptable.

3. Q: The garments I am making are made from materials that are considered exempt from 16 CFR Part 1610 flammability testing. Do I still need to send a garment for testing at an independent lab?

A: The Woolrich Apparel Lab will supply a listing of styles that are not exempt from flammability testing per 16 CFR 1610.1(d). Only styles that are not exempt require testing.

4. Q: My shell fabric is exempt from flammability testing, why is the style on the listing of non-exempt styles supplied by the Woolrich Apparel Lab?

A: Although the shell fabric is exempt, the lab has determined that due to the components/styling of the garment, there is at least one non-exempt exposed fabric that requires testing. For example, the shell fabric may be exempt, but the liner fabric is not exempt, and is considered exposed due to the garment being full open front zipper construction.

5. Q: Do I need to test a garment from every shipment?

A: No. You are required to test one garment from salesman samples and one garment from first-round bulk production.

6. Q: I have a certificate(s) on file for the current season. My manufacturing location has changed. Do I need to have a new General Conformity Certificate issued?

A: Yes. Certificates are issued based upon a specific manufacturing location. If the manufacturing location changes, you will need to submit new garments for testing and new certificates will need to be issued.

7. Q: I have a certificate based upon salesman sample testing. Can I apply this to bulk production?

A: No. As stated previously, two certificates are required per manufacturing season. One is required for salesman samples and one is required for first-round bulk production.

____ Chapter V: Manufacturing

Page 4.9c 5/18/09, Rev. 8/12/16


8. Q: I am manufacturing blankets. Do I need to have a General Conformity Certificate issued by Woolrich?

A: No. 16CFR part 1610 pertains to the testing of wearing apparel only. Therefore you do not need a certificate for blankets.

____ Chapter V: Manufacturing

Page 4.9d 5/18/09


Substandard and Imperfect Products

Handling Procedures To ensure that all products classified substandards (seconds) and/or imperfects (thirds) are handled properly, all vendors are required to comply with the following procedures before shipping the products to Woolrich. All substandard and imperfect products shipped to the Woolrich Distribution Centers will be audited for compliance. This procedure does not apply to full package vendors. All full package vendors retain substandards and imperfects at the manufacturing location. Substandards 1. Leave all tags, labels, and other trim items specified in the construction

specifications for first quality products attached to all substandard products. 2. Attach a blue substandard tag to the product and indicate the type of defect and

where it is located on the product (VME0020 Substandard Products Tag – see Exhibit section). Substandard tags are available through the Woolrich Supply Department. Please contact Sue Sorgen at 570-398-7819.

3. Attach the blue substandard tag as follows:

Outerwear and Shirts – to the left sleeve as worn, using a 1” quick tag fastener

Pants and Skirts – to the left side seam as worn near the waistband using a 1” quick tag fastener

4. Clip the corner of the care content label (VME0020 Substandard Product Tag –

see Exhibit section)). 5. Fold the substandard garment and place in a shipping carton. Do not hang the

product, or place it in a plastic bag. 6. Indicate “substandard” on the outside of the carton. List the WIP number, color

and number of products in each size. 7. Do not mix WIPs in one carton. Cartons can contain mixed sizes and colors as

long as the WIP number is the same and carton contents are clearly stated on the outside of the carton.


5/1/07 Page 4.10


8. Do not mix imperfects with substandards. 9. Send only one shipment of substandards per WIP. 10. Send a completed Seconds by Cause form (VMF0011 Seconds by Cause Form –

see Form section)) to Woolrich Quality Assurance. Your completed copy should be faxed or emailed to the QA Lead Auditor, refer to contact listing in Chapter 1 .

Imperfects 1. Leave all tags, labels, and other trim items specified in the construction

specifications for first quality products attached to all imperfect products. 2. Attach a yellow imperfect tag to the product and indicate the type of defect and

where it is located on the product (VME0021 Imperfect Products Tag – see Exhibit section). Imperfect tags are available through the Woolrich Supply Department. Please contact Sue Sorgen at 570-398-7819.

3. Attach the yellow imperfect tag as follows:

Outerwear and Shirts – to the left sleeve as worn, using a 1” quick tag fastener

Pants and Skirts – to the left side seam as worn near the waistband using a 1” quick tag fastener

4. Clip the center of the care content label as shown on VME0021 Imperfect

Products Tag – see Exhibit section) 5. Fold the imperfect garment and place in a shipping carton. Do not hang the

product, or place it in a plastic bag. 6. Indicate “imperfect” on the outside of the carton. List the WIP number, color and

number of products in each size. 7. Do not mix WIPs in one carton. Cartons can contain mixed sizes and colors as

long as the WIP number is the same and carton contents are clearly stated on the outside of the carton.

8. Do not mix imperfects with substandards. 9. Send only one shipment of imperfects per WIP.


5/1/07


Washdown/Color Standards

Handling Procedures Color standards must be established for all washed and non-washed fabrics. Submitting, distributing and tracking these standards must be done in an efficient and timely manner. This procedure focuses only on the submission, distribution and tracking of standards. It is not intended to address the developmental stages of wash/color standards. The Merchandising Department, through the Fabric Coordinator, is responsible for establishing the standards. The primary purpose of this procedure is to ensure that all garments, including open line, Woolrich Store, Special Accounts and all other Woolrich garments, have a washdown or color standard. Any production received in the Distribution Center that does not have an established standard will be put on hold until a disposition decision can be made. In addition, this procedure will:

1. Ensure that only those fabrics that have passed the Woolrich Fabric Performance Evaluation (VMF0007A Woolrich Inc. Fabric Performance Evaluation: Woven or VMF0007B Woolrich Inc. Fabric Performance Evaluation: Knits – see Form section) are submitted for washdown/color standards. Test results must be attached to the fabric submitted as standard. Standards will not be distributed for fabrics submitted without test results.

2. Ensure that all garments are evaluated and manufactured against the

same washdown/color standard.

3. Ensure that a common language is used for communicating and tracking washdown/color standards. A washdown/color code numbering system is used to identify all standards.

4. Ensure that all washdown/color standards are received by all necessary

parties (i.e. manufacturing locations, laundries, Merchandising, QA Audit, etc.).

5. Ensure that conformance to standards is monitored in one central

location. Quality Assurance is the only area that can approve a match to the established standard.


5/1/07 Page 4.12


Procedure 1. The Merchandising Department, through the Fabric Coordinator, develops the

washdown/color standards. 2. The Fabric Coordinator forwards the approved fabric to Quality Assurance,

attention QA Data Technician. The request form for Washdown/Color Standard System Introduction (VMF0012 Washdown/Color Standard System Introduction Request Form – see Form section) and a copy of the accepted Woolrich Fabric Performance Evaluation (VMF0007A Woolrich Inc. Fabric Performance Evaluation: Woven or VMF0007B Woolrich Inc. Fabric Performance Evaluation: Knits – see Form section) must accompany the fabric. The minimal requirements for submittal are:

a. Washdown Standards - 10 washed legs and 2 unwashed legs. No washdown standards will be accepted without the unwashed legs.

b. Color Standards - 1 yard fabric with face side clearly marked

c. For Prints or Patterns– submitted washed legs/fabric must contain at least 4 full pattern repeats

3. Quality Assurance assigns a washdown/color standard code. Prior to S05 the

standard code was for example, DEN-30.0. The number is identified as:

DEN = Fabric type 30.0 = QA assigned number; 30 represents the new standard number, .0 represents the revision number.

Starting with S05 the number is for example WFD-1000-KAK-4.0. The number is identified as: WFD-1000 = Woolrich fabric trim number KAK = Color

4.0 = The number of submits for the specified Woolrich fabric trim number/color. 4 represents the new standard number, .0 represents the revision number


5/1/07

Section 4

Quality Procedures 4. Quality Assurance issues the standards in the following manner:

a. Washdown Standards – Washdown Standard Card (VMF0013 Washdown Standard Card – see Form section), (white card) will display:

- swatch of unwashed fabric - swatch of washed fabric

b. Color Standards – Color Standard Card (VMF0014 Color Standard Card – see Form section), (blue card) will display:

- swatch of unwashed fabric 5. Washdown/color standards are distributed to the following areas:

a. Quality Assurance – Corporate b. Quality Assurance – Audit c. Apparel Lab d. Merchandising e. Production Location/Vendor

6. The manufacturing facility/vendor, 807 QA Coordinator, or agent is responsible

for providing correct washdown standards to laundry facilities. 7. If the standard is used in more than one manufacturing location, the vendor is

responsible for dividing and distributing the standard. Woolrich Quality Assurance distributes only one standard per vendor.

8. Quality Assurance will forward a Notification of Obsolete Standard (VMF0015

Notification of Obsolete Wash Standard, VMF0016 Notification of Obsolete Color Standard – see Form section) if revisions are made to any washdown or color standard. The recipient is responsible for destroying the old standard. In some cases, the recipient must transfer the unwashed swatch to the new card. A new standard code will be assigned to the revised standard.

9. Only those washdown/color standards distributed by the Woolrich Quality

Assurance Department are considered genuine standards.

Chapter V: Manufacturing 5/1/07 Page 4.14


Fabric Inspection Plan To ensure that all fabrics conform to established standards and will yield a satisfactory end product. Fabric Inspection Methods 1. The fabric inspector pulls a statistical sample of all fabric lots received in the

warehouse. The inspector uses the following inspection guidelines: a. shipments of 1000 yards or less – 100% of shipment b. shipments of 1001 – 10000 yards – 1000 yards c. shipments of 10001 yard or more – 10% of shipment

2. The inspector grades the fabric using a 4 point system. All defects that are

clearly noticeable from a distance of 3 feet and are not considered part of the character of a particular fabric by Woolrich and the fabric supplier are scored as defects.

Grading System 1. The inspector will assign demerit points to all defects as follows. This applies to

defects running in any direction on the fabric. a. 1 point – defects of 3” or less b. 2 points – defects over 3” but less than 6” c. 3 points – defects over 6” but less than 9” d. 4 points – defects over 9”

2. The inspector will not assign more than 4 points to any 1 yard of fabric. 3. Entire shipments where 20% of the sampling is defective, are subject to rejection. 4. Shipments will be rejected if the point level exceeds 30 points per 100 square

yards. 5. The formula for point computation is:

total points scored x 36 x 100 fabric yardage x contract width

The results will provide the total points per 100 yards. ______________________________________________________________________________


5/1/07


General Acceptance Guidelines 1. Any rolls that deviate more than 2% from the length stated on the piece ticket

will be rejected if the average shortage exceeds 0.5%. 2. All rolls must be 40 yards in length to be accepted as first quality. 3. A shipment of 1000 yards or less must contain only 1 shade. 4. Shipments of over 1000 yards must not contain shade groupings of less than

1000 yards. 5. Visual surface definition of the fabric must be consistent within and between

rolls. 6. Fabric must comply with all physical properties and testing requirements. Any deviation from the above must be agreed upon prior to receipt of fabric. Standard Put-Up for Rolled Goods 1. Rolls must be tubed on a convolute or spiral-wound tube with acceptable wall

strength and thickness. 2. The inside diameter will be 1 ¾” to 2 “. 3. The tube will not protrude more than ½” on either end of a roll. 4. The covered end of each roll must be taped down to prevent unrolling or damage

to the roll. 5. Rolls must be wrapped in plastic wrapping or bags, or covered with heavy craft

paper or burlap. 6. Rolls must not be more than 22” in diameter, and must not weigh more than 300

pounds gross weight. 7. Rolls must be rolled with enough tension to prevent telescoping in subsequent

handling. 8. Each roll must have an outside roll ticket placed on the end of the roll. This roll

ticket must contain roll number, yardage, and fabric identity. 9. All fabric must be rolled face in. Any deviation from the above must be agreed upon prior to receipt of fabric. ______________________________________________________________________________


5/1/07


Fabric Defects All fabric defects are considered major defects. Non-point defects will reject the entire roll. Point defects will be totaled at the end of the audit to determine acceptance or rejection of the roll or the entire shipment. Non-Point Defects Any roll containing more than two splices Any roll containing a splice less than 40 yards Unidentified spliced roll Spliced rolls not maintaining shade continuity between the spliced parts Narrow rolls Weight per square yard of fabric not within ±5% of the stated weight Side-to-side shading Side-to-center shading End-to-end shading Shade bars Uneven dying Wrinkles/folds Shade does not match the established standard Hand does not match the established standard Bow or bias exceeding ¾” in 30” woven fabrics Bow or bias exceeding 1/2” in 30” patterned fabrics Bow, bias or skew exceeding 1” in 30” knit fabrics Hooks will be evaluated based on a percentage of the 30” tolerance, using the width of the fabric in which the hook occurs-for example-on a patterned fabric, if the hook occurs within a fifteen inch distance of width, the acceptable tolerance would be (15”/30”x 1/2”= 1/4” tolerance for hook) Loose selvages Tight selvages Ripples or puckers in the body of the fabric Any defects that run or repeat through 3 or more yards More than one running defect per roll of fabric is not acceptable Any other defect that cannot be practically removed, and without removal would affect the salability/serviceability of the end product.


5/1/07


Point Defects All holes and full width defects of any type are considered 4 point defects. Other defects are assigned points according to the scale. Less than 3” 1 point 3” to 6” 2 points 6” to 9” 3 points More than 9” 4 points Slubs Knots Mispicks Misweaves Thick places Thin places Heavy thread Missing yarn Foreign matter woven into fabric Soilage – stains, oil, dirt Runs Skips One 3 or 4-point defect left in the first and last yard of a roll will reject the roll. 4 or more full width major defects per 100 linear yards will reject the roll or possibly the entire shipment.


5/1/07


In Line Inspection Procedures All sewing operations and operators are randomly checked to ensure compliance to construction specifications, measurement specifications and the acceptable quality level. A 1.0% AQL is recommended for work in process. A 2.5% AQL is recommended for end of line. Work In Process 1. The quality inspector randomly selects 1 bundle, then randomly pulls 5 pieces

from the bundle. 2. The inspector measures the first piece to check seam allowance. If the seam

allowance is correct or measures slightly less than specified, the inspector passes the entire bundle and records the results on the inspection form.

3. If the seam allowance is more than specified, the inspector measures all pieces in

the bundle. If 1 more piece measures over the specified seam allowance, the entire bundle is rejected, recorded on the inspection form and reported to the supervisor.

4. The supervisor returns the bundle to the operator for 100% inspection and

repair. 5. The inspector audits all 5 pieces for compliance to construction specifications,

and quality defects. If no defects are found, the bundle is accepted and recorded on the inspection form. The inspector moves to the next operation.

6. If 1 defect is found, the entire bundle is rejected, recorded on the inspection form,

and returned to the supervisor. (Note: the audit must be completed even if the defect is found in the first piece audited).


repair. 8. The inspector re-audits the repaired bundle, following the same procedures in 1-

7 above. 9. At the end of the day, the inspector totals the audit results and provides a copy

to the supervisor and the Plant Manager. 10. At the end of each week, the inspector summarizes all daily reports into a weekly

report. Copies should be given to the supervisor and the Plant Manager.


5/1/07


End of Line 1. The quality inspector randomly pulls eight (8) pieces from each bundle. 2. The inspector measures the critical measurement points on the first garment. If

washed, the before wash measurement specifications are used, if available. If non-washed, final measurement specifications are used.

3. If the measurements are correct, the inspector accepts the entire bundle and

records the results on the inspection form. 4. If any critical measurement point is out of tolerance, the inspector measures all

pieces in the bundle. If one (1) more critical point is out of tolerance, the entire bundle is rejected, recorded on the inspection form and reported to the supervisor.

5. The inspector audits all 8 pieces for compliance to construction specifications,

and quality defects. If no defects are found, the bundle is accepted and recorded on the inspection form. The inspector moves to the next operation.

6. If 1 defect is found, the entire bundle is rejected, recorded on the inspection form,

and returned to the supervisor. (Note: the audit must be completed even if the defect is found in the first piece audited).


repair. 8. The inspector re-audits the repaired bundle, following the same procedures in 1-

7 above. 9. At the end of the day, the inspector totals the audit results and provides a copy

to the supervisor and the Plant Manager. 10. At the end of each week, the inspector summarizes all daily reports into a weekly

report. Copies should be given to the supervisor and the Plant Manager.


5/1/07


Final Audit Procedures

To ensure that all finished products comply with construction specifications, quality standards, measurement specifications, and count and accuracy requirements, the supplier should audit all finished goods prior to shipping to the Woolrich Distribution Centers. The audit should be performed on packed product. Finished Product 1. The final auditor audits every WIP for compliance to all requirements. 2. The audit should follow the ASNI/ASQC Z1.4 Level II Single Sampling Plan,

using a 2.5% acceptable quality level. The auditor should select a normal, tightened, or reduced audit based on performance of the style being audited.(NOTE: The 2.5% AQL is recommended for the vendors. Woolrich QA audits to a 4.0% AQL).

3. The auditor randomly pulls the correct number of garments to complete the

sample size. 4. The auditor checks the first garment for construction specifics, following each

point of the construction specification sheet. 5. If the garment does not meet all specification criteria, the non-compliance should

be noted on the audit form (VMF0009 Garment Quality Inspection Form – see Form section). All other garments in the sample size should be checked for the same non-compliance.

6. The auditor audits each garment in the sample size for compliance to quality

standards. 7. If the audit passes, the shipment is accepted. The units are released to

inventory. 8. If the audit rejects, the entire shipment is rejected. The units are put on hold

until final disposition is determined. (Note: Audit should be completed even if the shipment rejects before completion).

9. The auditor measures all measurement points on 1 garment in each size. All

measurements should be recorded on the audit form (VMF0010A to VMF0010P Measurement Evaluation Forms – see Form section).


Page 4.21 5/1/07 Revised 2/23/10


10. If all measurements are acceptable, the auditor measures only the critical

measurement points on 2 additional units in each size. (total of 3 units) 11. If a non-critical measurement is out of tolerance, this point is measured in

addition to the critical points on the 2 additional units. 12. If a critical measurement point is out of tolerance, the auditor measures that

point on all units in the size(s) in question. (Example: chest on size L measures out of tolerance, measure chests on all units in size L).

13. If no additional out of tolerance units are found, the shipment is accepted for

measurements. 14. If 1 additional out of tolerance unit is found, the shipment is rejected for

measurements. 15. The lead auditor or quality coordinator makes the decision to either second the

units, or make a concession to accept the shipment, based on the severity of the out of tolerance measurement condition.

Count and Accuracy 1. The auditor performs count and accuracy audits on 10% of the shipment. The

cartons should be selected randomly. All information should be recorded on the audit form (VMF0008 Count Integrity Form – see Form section).

2. The auditor counts the number of units contained in the carton and compares the

actual count to the number written on the carton label. 3. The auditor compares actual style, color and sizes to the information on the

carton label. 4. If the contents match the carton label, the audit is accepted. 5. If the contents do not match the label in any area, the audit is rejected. The

cartons should be corrected prior to shipping to the Woolrich Distribution Center.


5/1/07

chapter v manufacturing table of contents v manufacturing.pdffabric defects 1. dyeing/printing a....

Documents