habip assembly guide p17104 | p17105 rochester institute ...edge.rit.edu/edge/p17104/public/final...

HABIP Assembly Guide P17104 | P17105

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Rochester Institute of Technology

MECE 499: Senior Design II

P17104 & P17105 HABIP Assembly Guide

First Edit: 05/09/2017

Revision History

05/09/2017 …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..…… Initial Draft

05/11/2017 ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. Initial Release

Note: All manufacturing procedures are written with respect to the equipment available in the Rochester Institute

of Technology’s Machine Shop in Building 09.


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Contents

1. Cage Manufacturing ….....…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 3

a. Reference Drawings ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 3

b. Required Materials …………………………………….………………………………………………………………………………….. 3

c. Machining Procedure ………..……………………….………………………………………………………………………………….. 3

2. Cage Assembly …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 6

a. Components …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 6

b. Equipment ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 6

c. Assembly ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 6

3. Layer Manufacturing ……….………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….……… 9

a. Reference Drawings ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 9

b. Required Materials …………………………………….………………………………………………………………………………….. 9

c. Machining Procedure ………..………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 10

4. Component Integration …………………………….………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 16

a. Component List – by Mount Location ….………………………………………………………………………………………. 16

b. Notes on Integration ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 17

c. M1101001: COMMS Layer Board Integration ………………………………………………………………………………. 19

d. M1100001: COMMS Coupling Layer Integration …………………………………………………………………….……. 26

e. M1102001: Motor Layer Integration …………………………………………………………………………………..……….. 26

f. M1103001: DAQCS Coupling Layer Integration ………………………………………………………………………..…… 30

g. M1104001: DAQCS Layer Board Integration ………………………………………………..………………………………. 33


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1. Cage Manufacturing

(a.) Reference Drawings

The following are the part drawings for the cage subsystem components,

1. M1001001.dwg

2. M1002001.dwg

3. M1003001.dwg

4. M1004001.dwg

(b.) Required Materials

The following is the required raw materials for the cage subsystem components

1. 2’ x 1’ x .09” 6061 Aluminum Sheet Metal

2. 1’ x 1’ x .06” 6061 Aluminum Sheet Metal

3. 4 Telescoping Antenna (or 8 depending on lengths)

4. Rotary Tool (Dremel)

5. Rotary Tool Grindstone Bit

6. Hot Glue Gun: No specific model

7. Hot Glue Sticks: No specific brand

8. Plastic Wire End Clamps

9. Hand Drill: No specific model

10. Drill Bits: No specific requirements, any stock bit set will be suitable

(c.) Machining Protocol

During machining of the cage subsystem, the reference drawings noted above (a.) are valid drawings. With that

being the case there is no specific protocol required for manufacturing the above components. A general guide with

tips is provided below, so long as the dimensions provided in the drawings are met.

NOTE: USE APPROPRIATE DRAWING, ONLY USING THE BELOW STEPS AS PROCEDURAL STEPS

1. M1-001-001

a) First the sheet metal plate was cut into several individual bars using the shear in the machine shop. If you

do not have prior experience with such, it is recommended that you seek assistance at this point; it is very

easy to create “wasteful” parts using the shear. The shear is by far the best options as it provides the

straightest cuts. The band saw can be used when set to 800 SFM, however the machine shop band saw

guide is less than optimal for this purpose. The shear also works much faster. The edges should then be

deburred.

b) Once the individual bars have been cut, the most prudent step is to machine the various holes outlined in

the drawings. This is most easily accomplished using the mill. A consistent bar geometry can be made using

a vise-stop and clamps. The vise-stop positions the bars at the same location each time (so that you can

zero the mill dimension screen for ease of machining) while the clamps hold the bars in place. Two clamps

were used to hold the bars steady, however it was found when using the center drill to make the pilot holes,

the clamps would occasionally not hold. There was no solution to this other than, careful machining.

c) With the holes now cut into all of the bars, the next and final step is to bend the bars. Bend all of the bars

at the same time, positioning all towards the center of the bending machine. Each bar should be separated

from each other by approximately an inch. Place two additional scrap pieces of metal on the far ends of the

bending machine as the machine bends “skewly” and this partially corrects this. Draw a bend line on the

individual bars so that you can line it up under the bend arm. While the arm is coming down adjust the


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positions of the bars to better align them with the bend arm. While bending the pieces at the appropriate

points, bend slowly and carefully to avoid over bending (>90 degrees) as this can lead to cracks at the bend

points. If done correctly all the bars should have 90 degree bends while experiencing no cracks at the bend

points. This is the point where there will be issues if any. Prepare additional pieces in the event of issue.

d) Repeat until you have eight complete parts.

2. M1-002-001

a) Contrary to the other parts included in the cage subsystem, the first step in making these components is to

machine the holes. The radial positioning of the holes are critical dimensions and must be made with care.

b) The holes are to be machined into a large pane of sheet metal. The purpose of this is to allow enough

adjacent room for the part to be clamped. First place a large metal, aluminum, T block into a mill clamp.

This will provide a large enough area support to machine all the part holes. The metal sheet pane is then

placed on top of the T block, and clamped to the T block. Three clamps were used and proved suitable.

c) Locate the center hole of the part and zero the mill at this point. Using this point the hole pattern can be

easily machined out. First pilot the hole with a center drill and then machine through with the appropriate

drill bit.

d) When all holes are drilled into the sheet pane, the parts can then be cut out of the pane using the band

saw. The dimension on the outside radii of the part is not critical and so the band saw can be used to cut

this aspect of the part.

e) Repeat until you have two complete parts.

3. M1-003-001

a) First the sheet metal plate was cut into several individual bars using the shear in the machine shop. If you

do not have prior experience with such, it is recommended that you seek assistance at this point; it is very

easy to create “wasteful” parts using the shear. The shear is by far the best options as it provides the

straightest cuts. The band saw can be used when set to 800 SFM, however the machine shop band saw

guide is less than optimal for this purpose. The shear also works much faster. The edges should then be

deburred.

b) Once the individual bars have been cut, the most prudent step is to machine the various holes outlined in

the drawings. This is most easily accomplished using the mill. A consistent bar geometry can be made using

a vise-stop and clamps. The vise-stop positions the bars at the same location each time (so that you can

zero the mill dimension screen for ease of machining) while the clamps hold the bars in place. Two clamps

were used to hold the bars steady, however it was found when using the center drill to make the pilot holes,

the clamps would occasionally not hold. There was no solution to this other than, careful machining. If the

vise-stop provides not enough to manage the larger bars (i.e. the bottom bars) and can wrench in a stop to

the milling machine bench grate.

c) With the holes now cut into all of the bars, the next and final step is to bend the bars. Bend all of the bars

at the same time, positioning all towards the center of the bending machine. Each bar should be separated

from each other by approximately an inch. Place two additional scrap pieces of metal on the far ends of the

bending machine as the machine bends “skewly” and this partially corrects this. Draw a bend line on the

individual bars so that you can line it up under the bend arm. While the arm is coming down adjust the

positions of the bars to better align them with the bend arm. While bending the pieces at the appropriate

points, bend slowly and carefully to avoid over bending (>90 degrees) as this can lead to cracks at the bend

points. If done correctly all the bars should have 90 degree bends while experiencing no cracks at the bend

points. This is the point where there will be issues if any. Prepare additional pieces in the event of issue.

d) Repeat until you have eight complete parts.


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4. M1-004-001

a) The correct dimensioning of this component is not required so long as the hole locations are maintained as

included in the drawing. The edges should then be deburred.

b) First cut out the coupling using the band saw set to 800 SFM. This can be accomplished by making a series

of well planned cuts.

c) The holes of the parts can be machined using either the mill or drill press. If using the drill press, you must

first etch the location of the holes, and then tap each hole location (pilot the hole).

d) The bending of this part cannot be accomplished on the bending machine as the bend part is too small. As

such you must manually end the part by first clamping the part into a vise-grip, leaving the small arm of the

piece exposed. The bend can then be made by gentling hitting the small arm of piece, until it is bent at an

approximate 90 degree angle. The bend dimensions here are non-critical. The only requirement is that there

is no bend along/near the crack.

e) Repeat until you have eight complete parts.

4. M1-011-001

a) To make the antenna radials, telescoping antennas must be reduced in size. The minimum length of said

grounds need to be 18 inches (this along with the horizontal length of the bottom cage bars equate to two

feet of antenna ground).

b) The telescoping antennas can be cut to length using the grindstone bit of a rotary tool (Make sure to wear

glasses!) Simply mark off the desired length and cut along the line. It is recommended that you add a couple

of extra inches on the length of the radial that you desire.

c) The newly cut end of the radial rod now needs to be flattened – this is where the extra inches are used.

Press the cut end of the rod into a clamp and tighten the clamp until the rod diameter flattens to a rectangle.

This should not take much effort as telescoping antennas are thin. Make sure not to bend the radial rod.

d) Finally, a screw hole must be drilled into the newly flattened portion of the rod. This can be done using a

.1405 drill bit and a drill press. This will however require detail as the drill press can catch onto the part and

drag it upward along the bit, making you look ridiculous. It is however recommended to use a hand drill.

e) Using a hand drill, begin by making a pilot hole using a very small bit (<< .1405). Continue increasing the bit

size until a .1405 diameter hole is bored out.

f) When drilling the hole make sure to tap the hole location so that the hole will not break any edge of the

flattened area.

g) At the opposite end of the rod, a plastic end cap is to be hot glued on. To do this, fill the end cap with hot

glue, and then stick the radial end into the cap, holding still, allowing the glue to set.

h) Repeat this until there are eight complete radials.


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2. Cage Assembly

(a.) Components

To assemble the aluminum cage subsystem of the HABIP Platform, the following are the required materials and

components,

1. M1-001-001: Top Cage Bars (x8)

2. M1-002-001: Coupling Disk (x2)

3. M1-003-001: Bottom Cage Bars (x8)

4. M1-004-001: Radial Coupling (x8)

5. M1-005-001: High Strength Aluminum Rivet (x48)

6. M1-006-001: #10 Aluminum Washer (x48)

7. M1-007-001: #6 Aluminum Screw (x8)

8. M1-008-001: #6 Aluminum Washer (x16)

9. M1-009-001: #6 Aluminum Nut (x24)

10. M1-010-001: Loctite 243 Threadlocker (x1)

11. M1-011-001: Radial Grounds (x4) – Changes depending on stock lengths

(b.) Equipment

To assemble the aluminum cage subsystem of the HABIP, the following are the required equipment and tools,

1. Rivet Gun: None in specific

2. Gloves: To be worn to prevent cuts from burrs, sharp edges, etc…

(c.) Assembly

1. Connecting M1-011-001 to M1-004-001 (Radials to Radial Couplings)

The radials (telescoping antennas) are to be connected to

the radial couplings using M1-010-001, M1-009-001 (x24),

M1-008-001 (x16), and M1-007-001 (x8). Refer to the

below picture for the assembly series.

To prevent bouncing during flight M1-011-001 should be

tightly secured into position – i.e. the nuts (M1-009-001)

should be tightened firmly to the point that M1-011-001

cannot autonomously move – only motion should be

when moved by an adjacent individual. The nuts can be

tightened by hand. To “permanently” tighten the nuts,

apply M1-010-001 and let dry before manipulating the

radial arms. Repeat this process until all radial couplings

are complete (8x total).

Note: The tape applied to M1-004-001 was for the

purpose of raising the radial rod. If the rod (when

extended out) sinks below the horizontal small amounts

of tape can be applied to M1-004-01 at where the rod will lay to raise the rod to horizontal.


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2. Connecting M1-004-001 to M1-003-001 (Radial Couplings to Bottom Cage Bars)

The radial couplings are to be connected to the bottom

cage bars using M1-005-001 (x16) and M1-006-001 (x16).

The radial couplings are to be connected to the bottom

cage bars by permanently riveting the connections. At

the bottom face of the rivet place a washer (M1-006-001)

before then pressing the rivet-washer assembly through

the radial coupling and then the bottom cage bar. The

washer is a disposable stopper, in that if disassembly is

required, you are to cut into the washer as to not deface

the radial coupling. There is no specific rivet gun required

for this. Repeat this process until all components are

complete (x8).

3. Connecting M1-003-001 to M1-002-001 (Bottom Cage Bars to Coupling Disk)

The bottom cage bars (M1-003-001) are to be

connected to a coupling disk (M1-002-001) using M1-

005-001 (x16) and M1-006-001 (x16).

The bottom cage bars are to be connected to the

coupling disk by permanently riveting the

connections. At the bottom face of the rivet place a

washer (M1-006-001) before then pressing the rivet-

washer assembly through the coupling disk and then

the bottom cage bar. The washer is a disposable

stopper, in that if disassembly is required, you are to

cut into the washer as to not deface the coupling disk.

There is no specific rivet gun required for this.


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4. Connecting M1-001-001 to M1-002-001 (Top Cage Bars to Coupling Disk)

The top cage bars (M1-001-001) are to be connected to a coupling disk (M1-002-001) using M1-005-001 (x16) and

M1-006-001 (x16).

The top cage bars are to be connected to the coupling disk by permanently riveting the connections. At the bottom

face of the rivet place a washer (M1-006-001) before then pressing the rivet-washer assembly through the coupling

disk and then the bottom cage bar. The washer is a disposable stopper, in that if disassembly is required, you are to

cut into the washer as to not deface the coupling disk. There is no specific rivet gun required for this.


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3. Layer Manufacturing

(a.) Reference Drawings

The following are the part drawings for the cage subsystem components,

1. M1100001.dwg

2. M1101001.dwg

3. M1102001.dwg

4. M1103001.dwg

5. M1104001.dwg

The above listed drawings are only for reference, to be used in parallel with the listed procedures.

(b.) Required Materials

The following is the required raw materials for the cage subsystem components,

1. 10 2” x 2” x 1’ Polystyrene Foam Boards

2. Mylar Foil Covering

3. Hot Glue Gun: No specific model

4. Hot Glue Sticks: No specific brand

5. Titebond II Wood Glue: Water-Resistant, Interior/Exterior

6. Stiff Blade Box Cutter

7. Long Blade Box Cutter

8. Wide Radii Drawing Compass

9. Protractor

10. Ruler

11. Rotary Tool (Dremel)

12. Rotary Tool Woodcarving Bit

13. Sandpaper: None in specific, previously used 150 Grip


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(c.) Machining Protocol

1. M1100001: COMMS Coupling

Layer

a) Begin by marking a center

point on a foam board. The

center point must be more

than 7 inches from either

edge of the foam board. By

referencing this center

point, trace a 7 inch radius

circle about the reference

point, followed by a 6 inch

radius circle concentric to

the first.

b) Using a protractor and ruler

mark off eight angular

equally spaced “notches”

on the part as shown to the

right that are to be the bar

interfaces (from the

drawing).

c) Slowly and carefully use the

stiff blade box cutter to shallowly cut the trace of the part, the cut should be approximately 1/3 of an inch.

With the trace cut made, the final cuts to the part can be made with the long bladed box cutter. Simply

follow the trace cut, cutting deeper into the part. It should take no more than three complete outlines of

the trace to completely cut out the part. The finished part should be a ring with an inner diameter of 12

inches and an outer diameter of 14 inches.

d) The notches can be cut from the foam through using either box cutter or a hobby knife. The finish on the

notches will be rough and so sanding the notches afterwards is advised. The notches themselves will most

likely require rework depending on compatibility with the cage subsystem bars and so be prepared to both

widen and deepen the notches.

e) Repeat four times, or until four coupling layers are complete.

f) All four of the layers must be tested for compatibility – i.e. if they fit within the cage subsystem bars. To do

so simply insert the coupling layers into a complete cage, specifically the assembled bottom portion of the

cage. If the parts do not fit then the notches must be reworked – either in terms of widening or deepening

the notches as they will be the cause of the non-compatibility.

g) Once all four layers are complete, they must now be permanently set to each other. Cover the top-side

surface of the appropriate layers with wood glue and adhere the surfaces to each other.


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h) Repeat this process until all four layers are adhered to each other.

i) When all the layers have been adhered to using the wood glue, next adhere them all by applying hot glue

to the areas shown below. This will reinforce the layer connection. The glue should be applied along the

entire length of the edges


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j) Once all the glue is set, the next and final step is to cover the part in Mylar. The Mylar should essentially

cover all areas of the part, with the exception of the bar interfacing areas (see below). It is also not required

than it cover all of the inner area, however it is advised. The Mylar can be can using scissors and a box

cutter. It should not be individually cut. Instead a large strip of it should be cut, and then rolled onto the

outside of the part, adhering the Mylar to the outside area using hot glue – a bead of glue every couple of

inches is enough.

k) Once the part is entirely covered in Mylar the bar area Mylar can be removed by cutting it away using a box

cutter. The ends of the Mylar should then be glued to the foam using hot glue. This should be repeated at

each bar interface. Attempt to get the Mylar covering to be as flat and against the foam as possible.

Do Not Cover

Edges Glue to Foam


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2. M1101001: COMMS Layer Board

a) Begin by marking a center point on a foam board. The center point must be more than 7 inches from either

edge of the foam board. By referencing this center point, trace a 7 inch radius circle about the reference

point.

b) Using a protractor and ruler mark off eight angular equally spaced “notches” on the part as shown below

that are to be the bar interfaces (from the drawing).

c) Slowly and carefully use the stiff blade box cutter to shallowly cut the trace of the part, the cut should be

approximately 1/3 of an inch. With the trace cut made, the final cuts to the part can be made with the long

bladed box cutter. Simply follow the trace cut, cutting deeper into the part. It should take no more than

three complete outlines of the trace to completely cut out the part. The finished part should be a disk with

an outer radius of 14 inches.





e) With the bottom top side of the part effectively complete, the bottom must now be completed. This will

require a rotary tool along with a woodcarving bit. Using the drawing provided above as the template, use

the woodcarving bit to machine the bottom components from the part. A bit speed of 15,000 RPM was

found to be sufficient. All of the bottom side geometries can be machined this way, carefully taking into

account the geometry depths. After machining out all of the geometries, the rough surfaces are to be

sanded down.

f) The part must be tested for compatibility – i.e. if the part fit within the cage subsystem, specifically the

bottom cage assembly. To do so simply insert the part into a complete cage, specifically the assembled

bottom portion of the cage. If the part does not fit then the notches must be reworked – either in terms of

widening or deepening the notches as they will be the cause of the non-compatibility. The bottom of the

part must also fit into the horizontal bars. If the bars do not fit, then the bottom side geometry must be

reworked – most likely widening or deepening in the bar imprints.


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g) The next and final step is to cover the part in Mylar. The Mylar should essentially cover all outside areas of

the part (the sides and bottom) and the internal side (top). The Mylar can be can using scissors and a box

cutter. It should not be individually cut. Instead a large strip of it should be cut, and then rolled onto the

outside of the part, adhering the Mylar to the outside area using hot glue – a bead of glue every couple of

inches is enough.

h) Once the part is entirely covered in Mylar the bar area Mylar can be removed by cutting it away using a box



i) To adhere Mylar to both the top and bottom surface individual pieces of Mylar need to be cut out. Two 14

inch diameter circle will do. One circle can be directly glued to the top of the part. The top surface of the

part can be lightly coated in wood glue, with beads of hot glue used sparingly to reinforce the bond. The

adhesion to the top surface should result in a very smooth and flush finish.

j) The other circle can be adhered to the bottom surface using nearly the same method as the top surface.

The only modification that needs to be implemented is to prevent adhesion to locations where the bar

imprints (i.e. where the bars interface) lie on the foam. As before, the Mylar can be adhered to the foam

through a combination of both wood glue and hot glue, with the edges of the Mylar being adhered to the

glue using hot glue. See the bottom diagram for clarification of where Mylar is to be placed on the bottom

surface (Blue surface).

Note: Due to “bad mouse work” the blue shading does not completely cover all of the applicable area.

The Mylar should cover the entirety of the applicable surfaces.


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3. M1102001: Motor Layer

a) Begin by marking a center point on a foam

board. The center point must be more

than 7 inches from either edge of the foam

board. By referencing this center point,

trace a 7 inch radius circle about the

reference point.

b) Using a protractor and ruler mark off eight

angular equally spaced “notches” on the

part as shown to the right that are to be

the bar interfaces (from the drawing).

c) Slowly and carefully use the stiff blade box

cutter to shallowly cut the trace of the

part, the cut should be approximately 1/3

of an inch. With the trace cut made, the

final cuts to the part can be made with the

long bladed box cutter. Simply follow the

trace cut, cutting deeper into the part. It

should take no more than three complete

outlines of the trace to completely cut out

the part. The finished part should be a disk with an outer radius of 14 inches.





e) The motor layer must be tested for compatibility – i.e. if the part fit within the cage subsystem bars. To do

so simply insert the part into a complete cage, specifically the assembled bottom portion of the cage. If the

part does not fit then the notches must be reworked – either in terms of widening or deepening the notches

as they will be the cause of the non-compatibility.

f) The next and final step is to cover the part in Mylar. The Mylar should essentially cover all outside areas of

the part, with the exception of the bar interfacing areas. The top and bottom of the part should not be

covered in Mylar, only the sides. The Mylar can be can using scissors and a box cutter. It should not be

individually cut. Instead a large strip of it should be cut, and then rolled onto the outside of the part,

adhering the Mylar to the outside area using hot glue – a bead of glue every couple of inches is enough.

g) Once the part is entirely covered in Mylar the bar area Mylar can be removed by cutting it away using a box



4. M1103001: DAQCS Coupling Layer

Repeat the steps set forth in the procedures for M1100001 with the following modification: Instead of using four

coupling layers, this section shall on incorporate three coupling layers. The rest of the information and procedures

remain the same.

5. M1104001: DAQCS Layer Board

Repeat the steps set forth in the procedures for M1103001.


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4. Component Integration

(a.) Component List – by Mount Locations

1. COMMS Layer Board (Lower Compartment)

Antenna [Wire]

Duplexer [Command Strip]

Radio Transceiver [Command Strip]

ATV [Screws and Nuts]

70 CM Battery [Command Strip]

2M Battery [Command Strip]

Motor Battery [Command Strip]

Microphone [n/a]

LEDs [Glue]

Raspberry Pi Camera [Screws and Nuts]

NTSC Camera [Glue]

2. DAQCS Layer Board (Upper Compartment)

APRS [Plastic Holder]

APRS Battery [Command Strip]

DAQCS PCB Board [Screws and Nuts]

GPS [Command Strip]

Motor Controller [Command Strip and Screws and Nuts]

Buzzer [Command Strip]

LEDs [Glue]

3. COMMS Coupling Layers - None

4. DAQCS Coupling Layers

2 Raspberry Pi Cameras [Screws and Nuts]

2 NTSC Cameras [Glue]

LEDs [Glue]

External Sensors [Glue]

5. Motor Layer

Motor [Inserts, Screws, and Nuts]

4 Raspberry Pi Stacks with Batteries [Screws and Nuts]

COMMS PCB Board [Screws and Nuts]

OSD Board [Screws and Nuts]

GRSS Board with Battery [Screws and Nuts]


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(b.) Note on Integration

As a preface to component integration, there are a handful of notes to abide by regarding alterations to the foam

subsystem components.

1. Mylar Placement

Whenever integrating a component onto a surface covered by Mylar, the Mylar fittingly needs to be removed. This

however requires the Mylar to be stripped from the surface. This can be done simply by cutting the surface using a

box cutter or hobby knife. The Mylar edges can then be adhered to the surrounding foam by applying hot glue to

the adjoining surface. This procedure is consistent for all alterations made in this manner.

2. “Sticky Strip” Mounting

When Command Strips are used for mounting components, unless noted otherwise, the command strip is to be

applied directly to the foam surface (un-touched, i.e. as is) and to the component surface. On the “erroneous” foam

subsystem drawings and models there are indents where the command strips are located, however these indents

are not literal, they are only for locational purposes. Strips can be cut to size using scissors.

3. Screw Mounting

When screws and nuts are to be used to mount components, unless long stock screws are available, the screw is

typically required to be made from an extended threaded rod (can be bought from McMaster Carr or any other

website). The rods can be cut using a wire shear. They can then be made into a bolt by applying threadlocker to the

rod and screwing on the appropriate nut and letting dry. The resultant part should be a permanent bolt. Note that

the cut rod will most likely need to be sanded down to allow for a nut to easily screw on. The lengths of the screws

will vary and there is no general set of lengths to follow. Measure an approximate length beforehand, cut to the

length (with some excess for “wiggle room”) and after locking in the nut, remove any excess rod.

As for screwing the other end of the bolt into a mounting surface, depending on the orientation of the mount, the

appropriate mount configurations can be made. I the part is orientated downward –i.e. hanging, then the screws

must go through the matting foam board. The follow parts require this,

Raspberry Pi Cameras [4 Screws Each]

COMMS PSB Board [4 Screws]

DACQS PCB Board [4 Screws]

OSD Board [4 Screws]

Motor Controller [2 Screws]

All other components that require screws stand upright (on the top of the board) and thus can be mounted directly

to the surface. In order to do so the following procedure is to be followed to create the mounting surface. First the

appropriate nut must be placed “in the desired location”. To do so the surface must first be drilled so that the nut

can “snuggly” fit in the hole. To lock the nut in the hole, place a small amount of hot glue in the hole, and then

immediately place the nut into the hole. You must make sure to not adhere any glue to the nut threads. This can be

avoided by taking a pin an making a small pin hole at the bottom of the nut hole to allow any excess glue to flow to.

Also apply a small amount of glue to the outside perimeter of the nut prevent the nut from dislodging from the hole.

The follow part require this,

Raspberry Pi Board Stacks [3 Screws Each]

GRSS Board [4 Screws]

ATV [6 Screws]

Screw numbers, types, etc… are given in component schematics, or can be inferred from such.


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4. Position Nomenclature

Often the general position of components are denoted by their octant. The cage subsystem is comprised of eight

bars, and each bar is given a numerical assignment for assembly purposes. This assignment allows alignment of

specific components regardless of the layer being worked on. Below highlights the octet identification system for

general placement.

NOTE: All boards pictured below are orientated upward (i.e. this is the top view of all boards).

When identify a component, the octet will be identified. If it is along the diagonal the callout will be as follows:

Board-Side-#. If it is between two octets, is will be identified as follows: Board-Side-#/#. Many components have no

specific location and so specifying a general location for placement is acceptable and allows for adjustments to be

made during assembly.

If a component is given a callout of: Board-Side-Schematic there will be a diagram given with exact dimensions for

placement.


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(c.) M1101001: COMMS Layer Board

1. Antenna

Mounting Method: Wire tied to the radial couplings.

Board Orientation: Bottom, Facing (hanging) down.

Board Location Callout: N/A, the antenna is located at the middle of the board (center of circle).

The antenna requires a hole to be drilled through the center of the COMMS layer board so that the antenna wires

can pass through (hole diameter is no larger than .5’). Above picture is after antenna had snapped upon impact.

2. Duplexer

Mounting Method: Command Strips

Board Orientation: Top, Internal.

Board Location Callout: M1101001-Top-Schematic


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3. Radio Transceiver




The back of the radio transceiver (Bao model) is oddly shaped and this will require an impression to be cut out of

the foam where the radio is placed. The cut should be no deeper than ½”.

4. 70 CM Battery





21

5. 2M Battery




Note: For launch the orientation of the battery was altered, this is not a necessary change to make, either

orientation is suitable.

6. Motor Battery





22

7. Microphone

Mounting Method: None.


Board Location Callout: N/A, location was never established, microphone was last minute addition and

was “thrown” into the compartment.


23

8. LEDS

Mounting Method: Glue, ensuring to seal the hole as well.

Board Orientation: Bottom, facing down.

Board Location Callout: N/A, location is arbitrary.

LEDs


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9. Raspberry Pi Camera

Mounting Method: Screws (4x).


Board Location Callout: M1101001-Bottom-4/5

For dimensions on the black camera casing see DAQCS documentation. A shallow (1/10 inch) impression the

horizontal and vertical dimensions of the casing are to be cut into the bottom of the layer. Screw holes through the

layer can be made by simply pressing the screws through the layer. The camera ribbon cable then needs to be put

through the foam. Disconnect the ribbon cable at the adapter end so that the cable is just a thin plastic ribbon. Using

a long blade box cutting blade, cut a slit into the foam approximately the width of the ribbon cable. The ribbon

should have no issue protruding through the slit. The ribbon should not be bent at a 90 degree angle. The camera

can also be redundantly attached to the foam using the command strips, however for that the back of the casing

may need to be sanded down to a flat profile.

10. NTSC Camera

Mounting Method: Glue.


Board Location Callout: M1101001-Bottom-3/4


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A hole must be drilled through the board to allow the camera to fit through. The camera end opposite the lens is

edged and so the camera can be fitted into the hole without completely going through the hole. The hole must be a

tight fit to prevent the camera lens from rotating out of focus. The hole can be drilled with a standard drill bit (at a

sub-sized diameter) and then sanded down to the tight fit diameter. The back (internal) end of the camera can be

glued to the foam to prevent motion.

11. ATV

Mounting Method: Screws.



Note: The ATV was placed on top of an aluminum mesh heat sink. The heat sink disk with an outer diameter of 16

inches, inner diameter of 12 inches, and a small connection protruding from the inner perimeter that connects to

the bottom of the ATV.


26

(d.) M1100001: COMMS Coupling Layer Integration

No components are required to be integrated with this component.

(e.) M1102001: Motor Layer Integration

1. Motor

Mounting Method: Screws and Inserts



Note: The hole diameters are according to the innate motor screws, not counting for the inserts. See DAQCS

documentation for insert diameters (will need to bore out the hole further most likely).


27

2. Raspberry Pi Stacks with Batteries




Note: The pictures provided below do not include the physical Raspberry Pi HATs; pictured below are the batteries.

The batteries are embedded into the foam layer, at a depth of approximately 3/10 inch. The Raspberry Pi HATs sit

directly atop the batteries and so that batteries only need to be embedded into the foam enough so that the Pi HATs

mate with the top of the foam layer.

Pi HAT Locations

Pi HAT Locations


28

3. COMMS PCB Board


Board Orientation: Bottom, Internal.

Board Location Callout: M1102001-Bottom-Schematic

4. OSD Board





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5. GRSS Board with Battery




The GRSS battery is located directly beneath the board. The area directly beneath the board will need to be “dug

up” to allow the battery to sit internally, and the board to sit flush with the foam. The approximate depth of the cut

will be 8/10”.


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(f.) M1103001: DAQCS Coupling Layer Integration

1. Raspberry Pi Cameras


Board Orientation: Side, External.

Board Location Callout: M1103001-Side-2/3

M1103001-Side-6/7










31

2. NTSC Cameras



Board Location Callout: M1103001-Side-1/2

M1103001-Side-5/6







32

3. LEDs



Board Location Callout: N/A, location is arbitrary, however was place: M1103001-Side-7/8

M1103001-Side-3/4

4. External Sensors



Board Location Callout: N/A, location is arbitrary, however was place: M1103001-Side-8/1

M1103001-Side-3/4


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(g.) M1104001: DAQCS Layer Board Integration

1. APRS

Mounting Method: Plastic Holder and Hot Glue.


Board Location Callout: M1104001-Bottom-7/8.

The APRS is housed in a plastic cylinder similar to the plastic holders that camera film comes in. A small hole was

drilled at the top to let the APRS antenna stick through (to prevent shielding). The APRS was maintained in the holder

using tape. The plastic holder was fused to the foam using hot glue. It is recommended that this method be amended

in future iterations.

2. APRS Battery

Mounting Method: Command Strips.




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3. DAQCS PCB Board




DAQCS PCB missing from picture.

4. GPS


Board Orientation: Up, External.

Board Location Callout: M1104001-Top-5/6

Routing the GPS wires through the layer will require a small hole.

Mount Holes


35

5. Motor Controller

Mounting Method: Command Strips and Screws.



Motor Controller not shown in picture.

6. Buzzer



Board Location Callout: M1104001-Top-7/8

Routing the buzzer wires through the layer will require a small hole.


36

7. LEDs



Board Location Callout: N/A, location is arbitrary.

8. NTSC Camera



Board Location Callout: M1104001-Top-5/6.

LEDs


37






9. Raspberry Pi Camera



Board Location Callout: M1104001-Top-1/8.









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